The float is one of the main elements of fishing equipment. It can be called the "heart" of the rod. Depending on the level of knowledge about its principle of operation, the effectiveness of fishing hunting can be different, and making an author's float with your own hands is no less a pleasant moment than the fishing process itself.

The basics of the functionality of the signal gear

The float is an ancient invention inspired by our ancestors since ancient times for the timely cutting of a trophy. He is at least 2500 years old.

From an ordinary piece of bark, it turned into an elegant functional product with good handling, but it never became universal for various fishing conditions. Therefore, professionals will always have more than a dozen models with a variety of designs. In their arsenal there are options designed for a specific place and fishing mode, that is, for a specific current, depth, type of fish and bait. As a rule, the same floats of different weights make up entire collections.

Production material

Some young fishermen don't know how difficult it used to be to find the right equipment in stores. The Chinese industry generously offered models made of plastic or foam with zero buoyancy. It was almost impossible to catch with their help: no sensitivity and stability in the current.

Gradually, the appearance of the signaling device changed. Homemade fishing floats, along with traditional goose, thrush and peacock feather tackle, are returning to natural materials for their manufacture:

ordinary and cork tree;
balsa (tropical American tree, often used in modeling);
bamboo;
reed stalks;
osokorya (broom).

These materials have stood the test of time and proven their effectiveness decades after the introduction of disposable, bulk floats available at your local store.

If all the nuances are taken into account in the gear, then you can make a float at home from the following materials:

polystyrene;
ballpoint pen or cocktail straw;
from a container for shoe covers, etc.

Making floats with your own hands is a simple science. Such work will help to make a universal set for all cases - of course, subject to the principles of the float and its characteristics, which have survived to this day.

The right tackle, even despite the ripples, should be clearly visible, not lie on its side from the waves and wind, be waterproof, strong, but as light as possible.

Types of floats

All floats have three components: a beacon, a floating upper part and a weighty bottom. The idea is that the body holds the float, and the heavy bottom acts as a stabilizer, like the ballast of a ship or the keel of a yacht.

Before making your personal collection, it is useful to familiarize yourself with the basic forms of bite alarms, depending on the purpose. By functionality, they can be divided into the following categories:

match type, for catching small fish;
in calm conditions;
on a large course of the river;
floats for long casting;
heavy live bait floats.

The former are shaped like a short drop with a long antenna or keel and are designed for fishing at shallow depths. Due to their low weight, they glide along the surface of the water and slowly sink into it, which especially attracts roach and small carp. With proper shipment, only the antenna peeps out of the water. With the exception of floats on which heavy ammunition or live bait is mounted, this rule applies to all forms. Deaf fastening of the float (top and bottom) is most suitable for this species.

In calm conditions, well-known feather gadgets with a minimum beacon protrusion are appropriate to avoid windage. Their shipment up to 3 g will be quite sufficient. The fishing rod can be equipped with both a conventional reel and an inertial one.

A barrel-shaped thick drop with a long thin keel and a short antenna will help in the fight against the current. In the common people - "dolphin". Thickening can be both in water and on the surface. The optimal dimensions would be a width of 6 mm and a length of about 65 mm.

The floats, which allow you to deliver the hook to a significant distance, are distinguished by an oval shape, a short metal keel and a long bright beacon. Their foreign name is waggler. As a rule, they are sliding, that is, the play is regulated on the forest with a locking bead. The weighty lower part will pull all the equipment along with it and give additional stability on the waves.

Even more massive barrel-shaped indicators are used for live bait fishing. On the fishing line, they are tightly attached on both sides or slide with the help of a stopper cambric. In the second case, there should be a ring on the keel of the float. They are shipped on 2/3-¾ of their body. It is better to lead the signal part with a bright pea, while inertial coil on a fishing rod is undesirable.

Handmade

AT last years shops stock a large assortment of fishing gear, including a variety of floats in a wide range of colors, shapes and shipments.

However, a good model is not cheap, and all season fishing always accompanied by the loss of a large amount of inventory. Knowing the main options for signaling devices and having decided on the form, you can make a whole collection yourself.

Styrofoam production

Old-timers remember indicators from goose feathers, from a broom and a ballpoint pen.

Soon a rigid foam model appeared, spindle-shaped. Such floats are less sensitive than feather products, but this is compensated by aerodynamics and calm behavior on waves or rough currents. Many use this particular model and are accustomed to it. You can make a foam float in just 15 minutes. In addition, following the instructions, the craftsmen achieve any necessary shape - from thin to barrel-shaped.

Moving directly to production, it is worth noting that the starting point for success is the choice of material for the product. It should be firm, with good buoyancy, and its consistency should be thin, free of inclusions and voids.

The size of the blank depends on the goals. For example, if it is intended for fishing in a reservoir with an average flow and a depth of about three meters, the carrying capacity should be from 7 to 8 g. Therefore, you need to cut out a small bar measuring 12x12x115 mm. Step-by-step instruction will make this process not only clear, but also fast:

In order for the workpiece not to “walk” and not shift the axis during processing, you first need to mark its central part with a pencil and lean on it constantly.
A sharp construction knife is given an ideal cylindrical shape.
Then marks of 5 cm are applied to the workpiece on each side.
By wielding a knife from the top point down, the semi-finished product is given a spindle-shaped or other shape.
The surface is smoothed with sandpaper. If you have a drill at hand, then everything is easier. A self-tapping screw is screwed into the center of the log, which is attached to the cartridge. Thus, an impromptu lathe is obtained. The abrasive paper should be new and fine so that the pores of the foam do not tear and become clogged with dust.
Now we need to make accessories. To provide reinforcement, a steel wire with a diameter of up to 1.5 mm and a length of about 45 mm is taken, with which the float is pierced strictly in the middle. Cambric (rubber braid) can be selected depending on the thickness of the line used. The antenna is made of a wooden toothpick or skewer (1.5 mm). For better visibility, it can be equipped with a small ball of bright color. The loop through which the fishing line is passed is made of 2 cm copper wire or a champagne metal protection element. It is smeared with glue and driven in perpendicularly with an indentation of 2/3 from the upper edge of the beacon.
The final step is coloring the product. It can be any color, but experienced fishermen choose a dark body color, and a rainbow of black, red and orange colors is selected for the antenna. It is best to apply waterproof enamel and treat the surface twice. It is desirable for the keel to leave the natural color, covering it with a neutral varnish.

The disadvantage of polystyrene is its porosity and low strength. It is not difficult to solve this problem if you cover the product with epoxy glue. It is applied to a dry, clean surface and leveled, and when it dries, a crust forms. To enhance the effect, the procedure is repeated, but each layer must be dried for at least 6 hours. The hardened resin is ground and polished to a shine.

Special fixtures for night fishing in the form of a fluorescent capsule will greatly simplify fishing at this time of day. When making a float, you can wrap the lighthouse with a luminous thread in advance or cover it with a special reflective paint.

Feather varieties

They have long served as a link between the invisible hook and the gaze of the fisherman. The standard donor bird is the goose. Excellent long signaling devices come out of its cover.

The processing of the rod begins with the removal of hair. It must be done as carefully as possible: first with scissors, so as not to touch the protective film, then with sandpaper or a soft flame.

Next, the lower part of the workpiece is cut obliquely, and a carabiner or ring is inserted into the formed tongue. Such a loop with a fishing line attachment is tied to the base with a thin silk thread. For greater strength, the joints are coated with glue and painted white or black. If it is necessary to fix the float, a cambric or other rubber material is put on its upper part. This model is preferable in calm weather and with casting over short distances.

Models from a tube or ballpoint pen

They look like artificial feathers. Proportional rigid shape gives the product aesthetics and versatility, as there is the possibility of internal shipping with lead balls. This float is lightweight and sensitive. However, it is less affected by waves and currents (compared to its feather counterpart). Many fans consider this design to be the most successful for various types of fishing.

The simplest option consists of a stick for a flag or a ball. Its lower end (2 centimeters from the edge) is brought to the candle until a characteristic bubble forms. Then the melted place is twisted and cut off, and complete sealing of the cavity is ensured. If necessary, a weight is inserted into the float. The procedure is repeated with top products. After cooling, the keel part heats up again and is clamped with pliers. A hole for the fishing line is pierced in the resulting plane.

When manipulating the base of the handle, it is better to cover its edges with epoxy resin or with a glue gun. A pin with a ring for fishing line can be made from champagne tying wire, which is inserted into a slightly hardened mass.

It differs from superficial counterparts in the absence of the usual components, except for the body. The task is to hold the leash holding the baited hook at the desired depth. It is more like those used to maintain fishing nets, only in miniature.

Dense foam is ideal for these purposes. You can also make a float out of cork, but it requires additional sealing. A piece of this material can be of any shape. A through hole for the fishing line is made in its center, and two rubber stops are used for fixation.

Next, the product is polished and qualitatively painted in several layers. Preferably before doing this, cover the float with a waterproof putty like white sealant or epoxy. It is even better to pre-insert cambric into the hole or put it on glue: this will prevent the line from destroying the foam and keep it from getting wet from the inside.

Individuality and versatility

So, each float has a characteristic design that allows you to withstand any water or weather conditions.

The float style and size must be determined by:

Experiment is the key to success in fishing. It is safe to say that, even with modern technology, the fishermen's float remains an essential companion in their suitcase. Despite all sorts of tricks, catch catalysts, nets and rubber bands, people constantly return to float fishing - as a vacation that gives real pleasure from excitement.

There is no universal float. For example, I like feathers, they will clearly show the cautious bite of crucian carp, but they are absolutely unsuitable on the waves. There is only one conclusion - to have a collection.

Andrey, Kostroma

The sensitivity of the float does not depend on the shape, but on fixation (in one or two places). With confident, sharp bites with diving, this is not essential. If the trophy is cautious, then a reliable ligament is needed, like an extension of the finger, when even ordinary ripples get in the way.

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How to make a wooden float with your own hands?

Modern floats made of wood are distinguished by good sensitivity, have the correct balance and fly far. You can buy both sliding and blind-rigged floats. There is a category of anglers who independently make wooden floats. In this article, we will consider how to make a wooden float with a deaf type of fastening at home.

Necessary materials and tools

We need balsa. It can be bought in stores for aircraft modeling and shipbuilding. This material is very light and strong and well processed. Balsa for sale in slats and bars:

The main thing is to choose a bar with the same density along the entire length. The optimal density of balsa for floats is 0.1 - 0.12 g/cm. cube We also need steel wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm and carbon fiber rods 1 mm thick and 1 meter long.

To process the balsa, we will use enamel or yacht varnish, light spirit and Moment glue. For the manufacture of through-rings, we need a wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm. To paint the float, we need acrylic paints. They are sold in the art store.

It is better to process balsa with a DC motor DPR 52 drill:

If there is a more powerful engine, 150-200 W, then it is better to use it. If not, then you can use an electric drill with drills. We also need sandpaper of different sizes, a sharp knife, pliers with wire cutters and drills with a diameter of 0.3 to 1 mm.

Keel parameters

The keel is necessary for the correct balancing of the body of the float so that it occupies the same position in the water with the correct load. To obtain a heavy float, a longer keel made of thick wire is used. Thus, the center of gravity of the product is shifted.

If we need to get a float with a small carrying capacity, up to 1.5 grams, then we need a keel weighing no more than 0.3 grams.

On floats with a small body, the mass of the keel is approximately 70-80% of the carrying capacity of the float.

The keel is best made from carbon fiber rods with a thickness of 0.2-0.3 mm. If you need more heavy weight float, then use a steel wire with a thickness of 0.3-0.5 mm. The keel should not be a third of the length of his body.

What to make an antenna for a float?

The antenna can be made from a plastic hollow rod 0.5 mm thick.

The length of the rod can be from 5 to 7 cm. We glue the antenna 1 cm inside the body of the float. You can also make an antenna out of bamboo. It has excellent buoyancy and does not absorb moisture. You can use barbecue sticks. We process them with varnish and paint them red with acrylic paint. These sticks are quite thick and are very well suited for making floats.

We cut off a part of the stick of the desired length and varnish it, and then paint it.

Making the float body from balsa

To make the body of the float, you need to cut off part of the bar and give it a rounded shape. First, cut off the bars of the desired length with a knife. Next, cut off all the edges from them and clean the sharp edges with sandpaper.

After that, we grind the workpiece. If we use the engine, then we screw the workpiece onto the drill.

We take a store float of the desired shape. We will use it for the sample. Next, turn on the engine and take a medium-sized sandpaper. During rotation, we apply sandpaper to the barrel and turn it. The photo shows one of the simplest options for floats. You can get more complex and sophisticated products. For example, such

First, we grind with a larger sandpaper, and then we use small ones for better processing of the barrels to the required shape and degree of smoothness.

After you need to make holes for the keel and antenna. We make a hole for the keel. Remember that he must enter a third of the length of the barrel. We take a drill with the required drill diameter (0.1-0.2 mm.) And drill a hole from the side where the float keel should be. In order to perform this operation correctly, it is better to clamp the barrel in a vise so that it assumes a strictly vertical position. After that, we moisten the keel in Moment glue and insert it inside. Leave the barrel in this position for 30 minutes. After that, we turn it over in a vice and make another hole for the antenna 1 cm deep. The diameter of the drill should match the diameter of the antenna.

The ideal option is to use a barbecue stick. It is quite thick and securely glued into the body of the float. We also dip the stick in glue and insert it into the hole. When we insert the stick, a little glue will come out. We don't choose him. Let it stay. Thus, the barrel is sealed. When the glue dries, carefully cut it with a blade.

We are waiting another 30 minutes.

Priming and painting the float

The next step is priming and painting the body of the float. To do this, we take nitrolac and dilute it with acetone to get a less viscous liquid. Pour the resulting liquid into some suitable container and lower the barrel into it. Hold the barrel for a few seconds and listen. After that, we send the float to dry in the sun or on a battery. You can stick the keel into the foam or into the ground and put the float on the window.

After drying, we remove the smallest villi and do the final fine-tuning of the float. We use sandpaper-zero and carefully clean the entire surface of the barrel.

Next, we need to make a small hole in the body of the float for the ring through which the fishing line will pass. To do this, we take the thinnest drill and drill a hole literally 0.5 cm. Next, we make a ring with a diameter of 0.5 mm from a thin wire, dip it in glue and insert it into the hole.

After that, primed again, using already urethane varnish. Acrylic and nitro paint fit well on such a varnish.

float balancing

After all work, it is necessary to balance the float. It is carried out by cutting the keel. We take wire cutters and cut off the keel in a small piece. After each trimming, put the float on the pencil.

The figure shows how a properly weighted float should rest on a pencil.

findings

It is better to make floats in series, 5-10 pieces each. That will be productive. You can make floats with different carrying capacity and shape.

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Learn everything to become a real angler and learn the right choice.

Winter this year turned out to be warm, to the great regret of fans of ice fishing. Besides, New Year already lived, which means that spring is not far away. It makes sense to prepare for float fishing.

In this article, we will look at simple ways making cool floats.

Let's start with probably the most ancient, classic and beloved technology of making goose feather floats! It was on such floats that our grandfathers and fathers fished, and some of us have probably already experienced this miracle of technology.

Catching on such a float is much more interesting than on purchased ones, it's completely different mental attitude. It's one thing to stare for hours at a plastic pin sticking out of the water, and another thing if it's a hand-painted and hand-made quill pen. The feather float is very sensitive, it shudders at the slightest touch of the fish, as it is thin, long and has low bite resistance. In addition, when you throw a fishing rod, the slave is not afraid of the sound of the float falling on the water, plus the fish perceives this float as something natural.

Materials and tools for making a goose feather float:
- goose feathers (large, from wings);
- scissors;
- blade;
- cambric or rubber band from the nipple;
- varnish or paint (waterproof);
- sandpaper.

Feather float manufacturing process:

Step one. Cut off excess plumage
To make a float, only the central part of the feather will be needed, so you can immediately cut off all the "fluff" with scissors or a blade. Do not rip it off, as there is a risk that you will damage the air chamber.

The pen shaft consists of two parts, a white part, and a camera. Due to the chamber, the float floats, since there is air in it. When making the float, be careful not to damage the chamber, as water will collect in the float and it will sink.

Cut the float to the desired length, only the white part can be cut off!

Step two. Float Handling
When you cut off the fluff, clean the central part with fine sandpaper so that nothing sticks out. You can also gently burn the remaining parts.

Step three. float mount
To fix the float on the fishing line, it is enough to cut off two rings from the nipple gum or from another suitable one. We put the rings on the fishing line and insert the float.

Some hobbyists also make a swivel mount, which can be made from thin copper wire.

Step four. Protection and painting
If desired, you can paint the float in any color. Although white is already perfectly visible, especially in the evening. It is enough just to apply a couple of strips of contrasting paint so that you can see the degree of immersion of the float when biting.

It is important to take care of protecting the float from water. With prolonged use, the float will sooner or later absorb water if no action is taken. It is advisable to paint or varnish the entire float. It can also be coated with epoxy glue, it will generally be a strong and durable coating.

That's all, the feather float is ready, now let's look at how to make a styrofoam float!

The float is made of polystyrene a little more complicated, but it turns out to be more massive, such tackle can be thrown further and caught more big fish. These floats also look quite interesting. You can use wine corks as a starting material. By the way, goose feather floats are often combined with foam.

Materials and tools for making foam floats:

Hacksaw;
- stationery knife;
- Styrofoam;
- round pliers;
- drill;
- sandpaper;
- wooden skewers;
- Super glue;
- baby powder and emulsion;
- paint and varnish;
- wire or thin spring.

Float making process:

Step one. Cut off the desired pieces of foam
Decide on the size of the float and use a hacksaw to cut the workpieces to the size you need.

Step two. Drilling holes
Holes need to be drilled along the blanks. In diameter, they should be such that wooden skewers can enter them. The skewers should come in with some effort. You can buy them in a store that sells various things for the kitchen.

Step three. rough forming
Now take a clerical knife and roughly cut out the profile of the future float.

Step four. Insert and fasten skewers
Carefully insert the skewers into the previously drilled holes. When inserted, take the “second” glue and drip onto the entry points of the skewers into the holes. The glue is liquid, it will go into the slot and securely fix the skewer.

Step five. Grinding
As soon as the glue dries, the most interesting point- grinding. At the same time, the float gets its finished look and practically does not differ in quality from the store. We clamp the din end of the skewer into the drill chuck, turn it on and carefully form the float profile with sandpaper.

You will need to process not only the foam part, but also the wooden skewer.

Step six. Preparing for painting
Before painting, the author rubs baby powder into the foam, for what purpose, I personally did not understand. Then the float is dipped into a jar of emulsion paint, which is diluted with water. Wait until the whole thing is completely dry.

Step seven. Painting
In what colors to paint the float, here everyone decides for himself. The author paints the lower part of the float, which will be under water, in a light brown color. Just dip the float into the paint to the desired level.

As for the mast, it can also be painted. The author here alternates three colors, yellow blue and white.

If you want to put stripes on the float, this will allow you to clearly see the degree of immersion, clamp the float back into the drill chuck and turn it on at low speed. Using a thin brush, apply paint to right places and you will get excellent, even rings.

When the paint is completely dry, be sure to apply a layer of varnish on top. It will protect the paint and also keep the wooden skewer from absorbing water. With varnish, the float will last much longer and retain its original appearance.

Step eight. Fastener
The varnish should dry during the day, after which you can begin to manufacture the fastener. Thanks to it, the float can be hung on a fishing line. You will need to fasten the ring at the bottom of the float to the skewer, for this purpose the author uses a small steel spring. We make a loop at the end, cut it to the desired length and put it on a skewer.

Float with your own hands. Homemade floats. Glowing float

The float is a constant companion of specific fishermen. This ancient invention is used if you set a goal just right to see the bite. Over the course of time, the look, form, and materials where this tackle is made have changed a lot, but the principle of action has remained the same.

For good fishing the choice of floats is fundamental. And from time to time it is best to make them on your own. After all, for certain criteria of weather, depth, fishing places, floats of various shapes, weights and sizes are used. If it's hard to choose best model, they make a float on their own, which they saved not a few, as the proverb says, there are cases left for our client. For this purpose, ordinary tools will come in handy for you, improvised materials, clearly, your imagination.

Materials and tools

For the production of floats, it will not do without tools such as a caliper, a vise is not manual, as it is also called an electronic drill. Foam plastic, tubes of various diameters, wire, paints, glue, and not everything else are used as materials.

Homemade floats made from natural materials, nettle, wood, bird feathers, porcupine quills, or balsa, are very popular. With the use of feathers, the fundamental condition is to completely clean their surface from the fan, then varnish it to prevent water from entering. Such homemade floats for fishing are very light and are not actually suitable for any body of water.

Requirements for homemade floats

In fact, making a float is quite easy, but this product must have certain properties, otherwise fishing with a child will simply be impossible. The main requirement is sustainability. You also need to make a float from the brightest materials or cover it with colored varnish. If this is not done, the tackle will be poorly visible on the water. Homemade fishing floats are quite strong, water-resistant and not long-term.

Any product that meets all of the above requirements can be considered completely successful. And to implement, of course, the following condition. This is the highest sensitivity, thanks to which it is necessary to naturally fish out even the smallest touch of the fish to the bait.

For you, the manufacture of the float needs to be done quite economically. After all, if the rarest tools are required to create it, as expensive materials are also called, its creation will be inappropriate.

Making a balsa float

Balsa is the perfect material for the production of floats. different types. Among the advantages, it is necessary to highlight the highest density, strength and durability. Already now, the dried balsa is very soft, no special tools are required to work with it.

After the production of the float body, a high quality coating must be produced. What exists is that the balsa absorbs water in a short time, therefore it is necessary to perform the initial primer with an alcohol dye, and after a while painstaking drying follows. Not only at the bottom of all these manipulations, start painting the product. If it is not enough to perfectly paint over the entire surface of the float, then upon contact with water, its carrying capacity changes greatly, which affects the functionality of the tackle.

A float made of balsa alone is easy to manufacture, suitable for all types of fishing does not last a long time.

foam float

The most popular material for the production of floats is foam. It is recommended to use a material that has the highest density. What exists, what is Styrofoam with small cells is easy to handle.

Manufacturing procedure

First you need to make a preparatory drawing, then to observe the dimensions of the gear. Then you need to cut the blanks, taking into account the dimensions of the layout, in this case it is better to make them a few mm than just.

It is most convenient to do this work with a machine with an electric saw. It is necessary to fix the wire in a stationary drill differently bicycle spoke to make a hole. For the production of the tackle body, it is better to use a chisel. So that home-made floats are not inferior to factory ones, using sandpaper, you should painstakingly grind them.

For the keel, a wire is used that needs to be tinned to protect it from corrosion, and at the end to cover with epoxy glue, do not stick it into the body of the product. It remains only to paint our float. For this purpose, it is safer for you to use black nitro paint, not light fluorescent. Snow-white, reddish, not dark paint is suitable for the antenna.

Extruded foam float do it yourself

DIY issue 21. Float from extrusion polystyrene, can do it yourself, at home.

Floats made of bamboo sticks and foam. How to make a float with your own hands

Preparations for the 2017 season are in full swing. I prepare not only baits for a predator, but also tackle for a peaceful one.

Feather float

If you want to make a float with the greatest sensitivity, then best material than a quill pen, for you not to be found. Thanks to the keel-shaped shape, such a tackle is able to convey the smallest touch of the fish to the hook.

To make one float on your own, you need to clean the feather from fluff, leaving only the core. It is of fundamental importance that during cleaning it remains intact, otherwise water will look inside. Therefore, it is best to singe the fluff over a small fire.

Next, you need to put a rubber ring on the bottom of the pen, which will serve as a mount for the fishing line. For the ability, the float was perfectly visible in the water, you should paint its upper part in a catchy color. your direction. combinations of contrasting tones, nettle, reddish not greenish in other words dark not orange. You can use only waterproof paint, and on top of the product you need to open a layer of transparent varnish.

Tackle made from plastic tubing

Among the methods of how to make a float without the help of others, the most popular is the manufacture of gear from plastic tubes. Such material is similar to natural feathers, but more even and not neat. The tubular float has properties such as strength, high sensitivity, and ease of production.

It is necessary to cut off a piece of a suitable length from the tube, do not solder the ends so that water does not get inside. One end of the tube is heated, a hole is made with a wire into which a fishing line is threaded. There is an option to put on a nipple. The float is painted in bright colors and is not varnished.

For the production of such gear, expensive materials are not needed, as tools are also called, and the method will take a small amount of time.

Wooden float

For the production of gear from wood, certain skills will be required. This type of floats is the most difficult to manufacture. Already now, if at the stage of production of equipment from foam, as it is also called tubes, it was possible to get by with the tools at hand, then when working with wood, special tools will be required.

To turn the body of the tackle, you will need an electric drill. Already now, the finished float needs to be painstakingly sanded not painted. As for the tree species, there are no restrictions in the selection of its species. Often fishermen use reed, as it is quite simple to process. Even working with such ordinary material will take a long time and will not require patience or perseverance. If you are trying your hand at art here for the first time, it does not make sense to grab stars from the sky. Try first do normal float. On your own, you can create a real masterpiece that can compete with store models. But get ready for the fact that it will not work out right away. All your free time.

How to make sliding floats do it yourself

How to make a float with your own hands?

Experienced amateur fishing knows well what the float should be. You can achieve the necessary parameters of the product by making it yourself.

This will require the most simple materials, which are available to everyone, and tools that can simulate a lathe.
With the help of simple manipulations, you can make different models. Each of them will correspond to the given parameters and properties.

The success of fishing depends on the correct manufacture of the float. Therefore, all the component parts of the model must meet the specified characteristics and fulfill their purpose.

The design of the float consists of the following parts:

The body is the lightest part and highly water-repellent.
An antenna serving as a beacon.
Keel - underwater part and balancer.
Ring.
Dog.
Carbine.
Swivel.

The purpose of the main floats can be classified as follows:

Float type	Properties	Water	Type of fish
Easy(0.2–0.8 g)	high sensitivity	coastal zone, standing water	rudd, crucian carp, roach
Average(0.8–2.5 g)	casting 20–30 m	with an average course	bream, silver carp, large carp, grass carp
Heavy(3–10 g)	throw 50 meters	deep with flow	large fish, large carp, catfish

If foreign professional fishermen, considering the float as one of the main components of the fishing rod equipment, make this attribute with their own hands, then even more so our fishing lover will master this science, passed down from generation to generation.

Necessary equipment and tools

The necessary tools for making floats with your own hands can be found in the house of any owner. If something from the list is missing, then ingenuity will tell you how to replace it.

What tools will be needed:

Vise(needed to fix the drill).
Pliers.
Drill(replaces the lathe).
Calipers(to measure the product to the millimeter).
Chisel(cutter simulator).
Drill different diameters from 1.5 - 3 mm.
well sharpened knife(can be construction).
Awl, which can be replaced with a knitting needle, a nail, etc.
Sandpaper different graininess.
File.

Materials from which a float can be made

In order for the float to turn out to be of high quality, The following requirements apply to the choice of material:

it must be light;
must be hand-crafted;
should keep the shape.

The following materials have such properties:

Wood different breeds with low density. Best of all, this requirement is met by a balsa (balsa) tree. It does not grow with us, but you can buy it in aircraft modeling stores. It is from balsa that ship models are made.
Styrofoam and other polymeric materials.
The most accessible are feathers: goose and rook. You can use more decorative ones - swan and peacock.
Used for homemade porcupine needle floats, cork materials, the core of the burdock and the dried stalk of the reed, cane, cattail (kuga).

In addition to the material for the manufacture of the float, you need: waterproof glue, bright colors and varnish.

Feather

The most accessible material in the manufacture of a float will be feather. The main thing is not to damage the rod when the fan is removed. Carelessness will put all the work in vain if the keel begins to leak water.

First you need to cut the edges of the plumage with a sharp knife or blade. Burn out the rest with a lighter or candle. After that, clean the workpiece with zero sandpaper. A thin tail can be cut off or bent into a ring, a loop.
You can start painting. Bright colors should be alternated so that they are visible in any weather. The paint should be waterproof and serve not only as a bright color for the lighthouse, but also as a protective layer for the float.
After the paint dries, varnish is applied. This is a necessary attribute of all floats. It serves not only as a protection against external influences, but also gives greater slip, thereby increasing sensitivity to the slightest movement.
It remains to equip the float with clamps for fishing line. Here you will need two rubber rings (nipple): one is put on the middle; the second - on the thin part of the keel. Now the float is ready to dive.

plastic straw

A plastic straw can be called an artificial pen. Any product can serve as a material, similar in form: cotton candy holder, cocktail straws, ballpoint pen accessories, etc.

Having found a suitable item, you need to cut off the excess length. Solder the ends of the tube with a candle or lighter. To do this, heat the tip of the product until the material softens and twist the tail with a flagellum.
Then melt one edge again and flatten with pliers. In this place, make a hole for the swivel. Give the product an aesthetic look by cutting off unnecessary ugly edges. Clean with sandpaper so that there are no scratching surfaces.
Apply water-repellent paint, let the product dry, varnish. You can make several such "feathers" at once and please your friends. And the loss of a float will not upset you - making a new one is a matter of a few minutes.

Styrofoam

The manufacture of foam floats is carried out not only by craftsmen, but also by professional fishermen. From this material, you can get a product of any shape and load capacity. You need to start by choosing the type of foam.

Not everyone will do, but only with a high density, then it is easier to handle - it does not crumble in your hands. A piece of foam is cut into blanks of the required size.
You can process it manually by cutting off the excess with a sharp knife or using a drill. So that the drill does not “beat” while working at high speeds, it is clamped in a vise and fixed in the desired position. "Lathe" is ready to work.
Stick a wooden barbecue skewer into the blank three-quarters. Clamp the free end with a drill. At high speeds of rotation, carefully bring a file or sandpaper, cleaning off everything superfluous.
You can do the opposite - fix the abrasive material in the drill, and hold the product in your hands, grinding it to the desired shape. The first option will give a more symmetrical processing of the workpiece.
Having given the product the necessary shape (ball, drop, olive), bring the surface with the help of the skin to a perfectly smooth look. Now you need to wipe all the cracks in the foam with waterproof putty to prevent the float from getting wet. After drying, the final grinding is done with fine-grained sandpaper.
The finished product is pierced through with a new skewer smeared with glue. The product is ready for painting. After applying the desired color and letting it dry, apply varnish. Attach a carabiner to the bottom. Make sure that the watertightness of the float is not compromised.

Cork

The sensitivity of a cork float is less than that of the models described above. It is suitable for catching larger fish. The process of manufacturing the body of the product is no different from working with foam.

Having received the blank of the desired shape, it is necessary to carefully drill a longitudinal hole for inserting a plastic tube (a lollipop stick, a ballpoint pen, etc.). Secure it with glue. Soldering the ends is not necessary - such a hole is not a hindrance to the cork.
Next, make from twisted wire threaded through the hole, the desired attachment for the fishing line - the nipple and the hinge system. Paint and varnish the product, let it dry - the float is ready.

Wood

A wooden float will require more time and processing equipment for its manufacture. A successful model can compete with factory tooling.

The best material is balsa wood or bamboo, but our native oak, birch, aspen, etc. will also work. Having decided on the breed, we begin to "conjure" over manufacturing process:

Sawing blanks required sizes with a thickness of up to 2 cm and a length of up to 5 cm. The less excess volume, the better.
Drill a hole no more than 1.5 mm in diameter along the body in the center. Push the body tightly onto the wire, leaving tails about 2–3 cm long.
The "machine" is two drills clamped in a vise and "looking" at each other. Fasten one end of the wire in one drill, and the other in the other.
Only one will work - at high speeds. The second rotates freely. Having set the wooden blank in motion, you begin to remove everything superfluous. To do this, you can use a sharp chisel, file, abrasive tools or sandpaper stretched over a solid base.
Remove excess wood from the workpiece carefully, without sharp pressure. If you managed to get the desired shape, then grind the surface to perfect condition with sandpaper by hand.
Remove the wire from the float and drill a hole for the antenna about 2mm in size. Plant the beacon on the glue. In the keel part, screw the wire into the body of the wood, filling all the holes with glue. At the remaining end of the wire, make a loop for the dog.
Before painting, it is necessary to impregnate the float with a water-repellent solution. Then you can apply paint and varnish. Everything - the work is finished - you can start testing.

Cane

Reed float was used by our ancestors. Good for long distance casting.

quietly lays down on the water;
resistant to water flow;
has high sensitivity;
easy to manufacture.

It can be done right on the pond, using improvised means.

In order for the product to have an aesthetic appearance and serve for a long time, it is better to make it at home, spending a minimum of effort and time:

First, choose the right material. The reed must be dry and undamaged.
Cut the tubes of the required length about 10–13 cm.
Cut off the upper part under the cone and insert (using glue) a beacon (a toothpick or a barbecue skewer will do) up to 12 cm long.
The lower keel end is weighted to give stability to the float, for which several sinkers lubricated with glue are inserted into the tube and rewound with a thread for strength.
It remains to paint and varnish the surface of the product. Sometimes a foam ball is planted on the top of the lighthouse, which makes the float visible at a great distance.
Two nipples will serve as fasteners for the fishing line: one in the middle of the float, the other at the end of the keel part. In this form, the product will last a long time.

Requirements for homemade floats

It is not difficult to make a float with your own hands. The main thing is that it has the properties that are presented to such products. There are many types of equipment and each of them is suitable for a different type of reservoir and fishing method.

First of all, the float must be stable on the water, moisture resistant, durable, with bright colors. With highly sensitive qualities, it will warn of any touch of the fish to the bait.

A do-it-yourself float must be cheap, otherwise there is no point in making it. With the exception of those cases when they are prepared for themselves by professional fishermen who can spend a large amount on the product.

Blitz tips:

When the depth of the reservoir is small, it is better not to use a brightly colored float - a larger and more cautious fish sees it and is afraid to swim close.

How to identify a fishing spot?

In places where there is no strong current, but there are sunken trees and snags, worth a lot of fish. Predatory breeds hunt small fish here. Catfish may visit at night.
When looking for a place to fish, please note that if there was another fisherman here before you and baited the fish, then it will not immediately bite on the new bait. It will take some time until she gets used to the new kind of bait.
Arriving at the reservoir, look around - the rising fish will indicate a more favorable place for fishing.

The love of fishing is the call of the soul, inherited from our ancestors. Despite the abundance of the latest accessories for equipping a fishing rod in stores, there will always be someone who wants to improve any of its attributes, even such as a float, to suit their needs. The habit of making with your own hands is very close to the Slavic nature.