Dismantling a bicycle chain with a lock. Removing the bike chain

The chain is the key element of the bike's transmission assembly. Sequentially passing through the teeth of the drive sprockets, it transmits torque to the rear wheel, thanks to which the bike rides. In the process of movement, the chain mechanism is subjected to dynamic loads, which over time leads to its wear.

On singlespeeds, as a rule, the chain is designed for the entire life of its operation: when moving along the stars, it walks evenly and straight, without deviations. Chains are more complicated on multi-speed bicycles: there is no right angle between the front and rear sprockets, which is why it is always at an angle to the frame. The stresses on the chain mechanism increase several times compared to the parallel transmission, which leads to periodic wear. In order to avoid damage to the entire transmission unit caused by wear of the chain, it must be replaced in time.

Not only do the "speed" chains need to be removed, they are quite often removed from single-speed bikes for periodic repairs or cleaning. We will tell you how to remove the chain from the bike and put it back in this article.

Malfunction symptoms

First of all, attention should be paid to chain malfunctions on multi-speed bikes. Traditionally, the travel time is determined by the mileage, but these values ​​are too approximate, because it all depends on the conditions of cycling: the quality of the roads, the selection of gears, the speed, the load on the pedals and, accordingly, on the chainrings.

The first signs of a bike chain breakdown are inaccurate gear shifting and suspicious sounds (provided the chain has not lost its lubrication). The following method will probably help to determine the malfunction: bend it away from the largest sprocket and see the number of free teeth. If the chain comes loose from three or more teeth, then replacement is required urgently. Two prongs "warn" that wear is just around the corner, but you can still ride.

Using the same method, you can see the weakening of the chain on a single-speed bike: bend it away from the chainring and look at the number of teeth.

Determination of the degree of attenuation

Another way to measure wear is to measure the length:

  • 304.8 mm is the optimum chain length.
  • 306.5 - 307.5 - average wear, suitability for repair. You can still ride.
  • 308 mm - a high degree of wear on both the chain and the sprockets.
  • More than 308 mm - damage to the entire transmission.

Measuring elongation requires removing the chain completely from the bike.

Lock and solid chain

The locking chain is equipped with a special clamping device. It is not difficult to unhook and put it on - you just need to disconnect the lock. To find it, we carefully examine the chain on both sides and find a detachable link. In principle, it will not be difficult to find it on a clean chain: a tick is put on top, which fixes the link and does not allow it to move apart. Also, the manufacturer's inscription is usually embossed on the key link. If it is not possible to find the lock for a long time, then either the chain is dirty, or it is lockless, or solid.

Bicycle chain with a lock

A bicycle chain without a lock simply cannot be disconnected: all the links on it look the same, however, and are hooked to each other too. This is a big inconvenience when cleaning, for example, it is necessary to carry out a "general cleaning" in a solvent. In the case of the keylock, everything is simple - I stole it and put it in kerosene. A solid bike chain, even when removed from the stars, will remain hanging on the frame.

In terms of removal, a chain with a lock is certainly more convenient than its counterpart. However, for some reason, the fastening may loosen: the tick fly off, and the link itself can be disengaged. On bicycle chains without such locks weak points no, and if it is torn, then the matter is solely in its quality.

Opening the lock and squeezing the link axis

It is quite simple to open the lock: use a screwdriver or other object (for example, a knitting needle) to pry on the pincer clamp. The main thing here is not to damage it, or even better - not to lose it, otherwise it will not be possible to fix the chain later. Next, we decouple the entire link. That's it, you can remove the chain and do whatever you want with it: clean it, throw it away or shorten it. However, we'll talk about this a little later.


Disassembled lock

It is possible to disconnect a continuous chain only with a special tool - a squeeze. With its help, it will be possible to easily disassemble the link without damage. The procedure is simple, but you shouldn't rush:

  • First, select the link for disassembly.
  • We insert the chain into the position of pressing out and pressing in the pin (link axis).
  • Use the handle to tighten the screw and take out the axle. The direction of extrusion is towards the pressing screw, that is, towards itself.

You should not completely remove the pin, since it will not be easy to return it to its place later.



Gall chain release device

The squeeze will loosen the axle slightly, so a different link should be selected when re-disengaging.
Pressing the axle into the link is carried out in the opposite order: connect the adjacent links together and press in the pin with the screw.

Elimination of defects

A common form of wear is chain slack when chain length increases from original length. Previously, the critical values ​​of the length of the bicycle chain were considered, at which it cannot be used. Everything is correct, but the chain does not have to be thrown away immediately, but it can be repaired. Under prolonged loads, the axles loosen, which causes longitudinal and lateral expansion. It is impossible to eliminate the transverse, but it is quite possible to tinker with the longitudinal.

It is necessary to remove unnecessary links in such a way that the chain calmly, without interference, passes over the large star. With the help of a squeeze, excess links are removed, the axial shafts are pulled out completely from the removed elements. The main thing here is not to make a mistake and not pull out too many links.

If you have to ride with a stretched chain, then in order to avoid its falling off, you can install the so-called parts that do not allow the chain to fly off when driving. There are several types of such devices:

  • Roller with two clips.
  • With wide rollers.
  • Frame (or rollerless).



This is what bike pacifiers look like.

Using pacifiers as protection is fine, but it’s better to consider changing the circuit.

Fitting the chain to the bike

To put the chain on the singlespeed, it is enough to hang it on both stars, press in the pin or click the lock. With high-speed bikes it will be a little more difficult:

  • Fix switches to small stars.
  • With regard to the position of the tensioning rollers, slide the chain over the sprockets.
  • Align the links.
  • Clamp the chain and press in the axle. If the bike chain is with a lock, we do without squeezing.

After the installation is completed, it is necessary to check the course of the chain: turn the pedals several times. If there is no sagging or obstruction during twisting, then the chain is of the optimal length and is installed correctly.

Every owner of a two-wheeled horse will be able to cope with the removal and installation of a bicycle chain. An uncomplicated and simple procedure will not take a lot of time, but it will perfectly help on further trips!

If you ride a bike for many kilometers, then the spare parts, sooner or later, will wear out. After a long ride, the bike chain will “stretch” and need to be replaced.
Technically, the chain doesn't stretch but the pins that connect the links wear out, which increases the length of the chain.

Stretched chain accelerates the wear of the cassette and the toothed chain rings on the sprocket, so get a new chain when the stretch is already noticeable - good idea... It is recommended to replace the chain every 1000-1500 kilometers. By the way, replacing a chain is much cheaper than replacing cassettes or sprocket sprockets.

The chain repair and shortening information below will be very helpful.

Bicycle chain parts and necessary tools

Chain wear indicator: A typical chain wear indicator engages a pin in the chain while the other end is inserted between two pins or rollers. The numbers on the tool will show how worn out the chain is and whether it is time to change it.

New chain: The type of chain depends on the number of speeds of the bike. So, for example, if your bike is 9-speed, you need to buy a 9-speed chain. Better chains include a special coating to delay the appearance of rust, or they are already made of stainless steel.

Replacing pins or connecting link: New chains come straight away with a new pin or special link called a splicing link that connects the 2 ends of the chain together.

If you are repairing an existing chain, you need to buy replacement pins or connecting links separately - they must be compatible with chain speed and brand.

Squeeze: If you have a chain with standard links, you will need a compatible squeeze to easily remove the old pin and replace with a new one when disconnecting and connecting the chain.

Pliers: If you have a chain that connects to a connector, you will need pliers to make it easier to disconnect and connect the connector.

How to check a bicycle chain


To test the chain for significant tension, use. Hook one end over a roller or pin in the chain. The other end will either come on the drive wheel by itself, or you can place it in the gap between the two rollers. If it falls out of this gap, then the chain is so stretched that it should be replaced.

The chain wear indicator has numbers to indicate the amount of chain wear. A value between 0.5 and 0.75 indicates the circuit needs to be replaced. A value of 0.75 or higher means that it is necessary not only to replace it, but also to check the condition of the cassette and drive sprockets, as stretching the chain could cause significant damage to the cassette and drive sprockets.

You can check the chain in another way - measure the chain with a ruler or tape measure. On a worn or new chain, 12 full links (measured pin to pin) should equal 12 inches (30.48 cm). If the 12 links are 31 cm or more, the chain must be replaced.

Removing the chain from a bike

To remove the chain from the bike, you need to disconnect (break) it. There are several ways to do this, depending on whether the chain has a connecting link or not.

Before you start, slide the chain to the smallest guide sprocket and smallest prong.

It will be even better if you remove the chain from the front drive sprocket or remove rear wheel off the bike. Both of these methods will release tension from the chain.

If you have a standard chain without a connecting link: Position the squeeze so that the pin of the squeeze is aligned with the pin in the chain. Rotate the wringer handle so that the pin is pulled out far enough to break the chain.

If you have a chain with a connecting link: To find a connecting link, look for a link that is noticeably different from the others.

This is where the chain can be broken.

The link has a pin on one side, which is inserted into a notch on the other side.

Using a pair of pliers, squeeze the connector on both sides so that it opens.

How do I determine the length of a new chain?

Usually the new chain is too long and will have to be shortened by removing the links. There are several ways to do this. The easiest and best way to determine the length of a new chain- attach it to the old chain. Then you just need to shorten it to match the old one (to be sure, you should count the number of links).

Another variant... Pass the chain through the front derailer and drape it over the large sprocket in the front and over the large prong in the back. Do not run the chain through the rear derailer yet. Connect the two ends of the chain tightly. If the chain connects, and there are still 2 whole links on the floor (half of the link still remains at the end - the place where you connect the chain), the length of the chain is selected correctly.

Note: Many full-suspension mountain bikes use a scheme to move the rear axle further away from the bottom bracket while the bike is traveling, through the suspension. it is called " chain growth". To adjust to the chain growth, the rear suspension will need to be compressed a lot using the method above.

Make sure the two ends of the chain will connect before removing unnecessary links. The chain can only connect if the outside of the link connects to the inside of the connecting link. Then detach the remaining links.

Fitting the bike chain

It's time to thread the chain through the rear derailer and connect it. Pay attention and make sure that the chain runs accurately through the drive wheel on the rear derailer.

Using the pins: If the chain does not have a connecting link, use a squeeze to connect the chain to the pin already in the new chain.
If you are repairing an old chain, always use a new pin instead of the old one. The new pin must be compatible with the chain, its speed and brand. A new pin must be inserted halfway using a squeeze, then pull it out on the other side using a pair of pliers.

Using connectors: If you are connecting a chain to a connecting link, put one half on each end of the chain, connect the ends of the chain, assemble the connecting link with a tool to put it in place.

It is also possible to connect the connecting link without tools. Connect it and pull the chain in opposite directions to block the connecting link as tightly as possible. Then loosen the derailer clutch, if equipped, pedal until the link is on top of the drive chain. Using the brakes, step firmly on one pedal, the tension will go to the chain, and it will snap into place.

How to replace a chain on a bicycle - video

It happens that you need to take off bicycle chain- for example, to clean it, replace it or adjust the length (the latter is done if your new cassette has a different number of teeth, and you need to change the length of the chain accordingly by adding or removing a certain number of links).

How to remove a chain with a lock

Examine the chain: if you find a link that is different from all the others, then you are in luck - you have a chain with a lock. In order to disconnect it, slide the pins (pins, axles) on each half-link (cheek). The circuit will open. The whole operation will take just a minute. You do not need any special equipment: if you suddenly cannot move the pins by hand, use the pliers. The assembly is also done without any tricks, in the reverse order.

How to remove a chain without a lock

If you have a chain without a lock, then you will need a special tool - a squeeze for the chain. It is inexpensive, it takes up little space, so we recommend that you always carry it with you, along with a set of hexagons and a repair kit for cameras. Anything can happen on the road - if the chain suddenly breaks, you can easily remove the damaged links using a squeeze and reconnect the chain.


How to remove a chain without squeezing? And is it worth doing?

How to remove a chain without squeezing is a burning question. But no matter how often it is asked, it is better to remember one life rule. For good repair and maintenance, it is better to use a specialized tool! In this case, it is a chain squeeze.

There are two types of pomace, most with two seats. One of them is for assembling and disassembling the chain, the second is for adjusting the position of the axle in the bushing of the chain link. If your squeeze is exactly this, with two seats, then insert the chain link so that it is on the side closest to the adjusting screw. If you put the chain in the wrong place, you can accidentally break off the partitions between the squeeze seats during operation or crush the link cheeks.


Suppose the chain is laid correctly. Now gently rotate the handle. The effort may have to be significant, so try to work carefully so that the link in the squeeze does not skew, otherwise it can be damaged. Make sure that the tip of the squeeze is pressing exactly on the pin. You do not need to turn the screw quickly, you should stop at the moment when the pin is squeezed out of the entire link, but remains on the far cheek. If you squeeze it out completely, then, believe me, it will be very difficult for you to insert it back. Also, be careful not to accidentally knock the pin out of the cheek, as it can roll away in an unknown direction and get lost.

When assembling, you do not need anything other than the same squeeze. I remind you again: be careful, do not get carried away so as not to squeeze the pin out of the link.

Two important notes:

  • If your chain is equipped with a lock, then you should not disassemble it with a squeeze.
  • If you have to disassemble the same chain many times, then each new time choose a new link: if you squeeze the same pin over and over again, this will worsen the strength of the chain.

After using the bike for a long time without maintenance, the chain often starts to sag. How to shorten your bike chain at home? What is required to determine the correct length? Let's look for answers to these and other questions in the presented material.

What factors affect bike chain lengthening?

A number of factors lead to wear on the axles, the so-called pins, of the bicycle chain. Firstly, deposits in the form of old oil accumulate between the structural elements, on which dust and small impurities adhere. In addition, stretching can cause the chain to be pulled when climbing steep climbs on the bike. Another reason is the end of the chain's service life, the destruction of its elements as a result of impacts, metal corrosion. To avoid discomfort during the operation of the bike, you need to figure out

How to determine the optimal length?


Before figuring out whether it is possible to shorten the chain on a bicycle with your own hands, you need to find out how long it should have for comfortable movement. To understand this issue, it is enough to throw the chain over the largest sprockets, both in the area of ​​the rear and front chassis of the bike. Next, you need to open one of the links. Finally, tighten the chain as much as possible. It is enough to add a couple of centimeters to the resulting length so that the chain is not overstressed during driving.

Preparation for dismantling

To make it easier to work with the chain, it is worth cleaning it first. The easiest way is to wipe it with a regular piece of material soaked in kerosene. You can also use a special wash, such as AB-80 or WD-40.

Tools

How to shorten the chain by speed bike or a mountain bike? Several tools can be used to sever links. First of all, you should pay attention to the special pomace. The latter is a simple device resembling a manual bed with a rod, which exerts pressure on the axles (pins) of the links. You can buy such a tool at any point of sale. sports equipment... Its purchase will cost from 500 to 1000 rubles.

If it is not possible to buy pomace, then you will have to use the means at hand. We are talking here about a hammer and a metal bar, which will serve as a punch for extracting the axes of the links. You will also need a couple of nuts that will fit under the chain links.

How to shorten a bicycle chain using a squeeze?


To do the work, resorting to the operation of a special tool, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

  1. Set the squeeze to a position in which its pin will be in the center of the chain link axis.
  2. Perform rotational movements with the tool until the axle is almost completely out of the link.
  3. Disconnect the chain and, if necessary, carry out similar operations with its remaining sections.
  4. Remove unnecessary links and connect the structure.

Once you've figured out how to shorten your bike chain, you need to figure out how to connect it. A narrow half-link must be inserted between the wide cheeks. Then the axle should fit completely into the bore of the hub. Next, you need to assess the mobility of the links. If it is insufficient at the joint, the hinge can be worked out with pliers.

How to shorten a bicycle chain without squeezing?


The lack of a dedicated tool for separating chain links is not critical. As mentioned above, a metal pin, nail, etc. can serve as an alternative to squeezing. You will also need a hammer here, with which the axles will be knocked out of the links.

With this approach to business, the main thing is to be careful. After all, inaccurate, too strong blows can lead to deformation of the link plates. To prevent this from happening, ordinary nuts must be placed under the chain elements in advance.

For those who are new to shortening a bicycle chain without using a special squeeze, it is recommended to practice first. For these purposes, it is worth using an old chain or separate, unnecessary links. Such work requires a certain skill. Therefore, before acting on a serviceable chain with a hammer and a punch, you need to perform the above steps several times and evaluate the result of your own labors.

Finally

So we figured out how to shorten the bike chain. As you can see, it is possible to cope with such a task not only with the help of special squeeze. To get the job done, it is sometimes enough to use the tools at hand that can be found in every home.

What could be better than a day out of town cycling! However, the pleasure can be overshadowed by unexpected circuit breakage. If domestic bicycles for the most part consist of split sections of the chain, the locks between which can be divided without much difficulty, then the chains are often one-piece. Today we will talk about how the chain is removed, and what devices exist for this.

When is the chain removed from the bike?

Seasoned cyclists remove the chain regularly. For example, in the case when the replacement of the system or only the cassette entailed a change in the number of teeth, the chain will have to be shortened by removing the teeth, or lengthened by adding additional ones. In addition, the chain is removed in order to:

  • wash;
  • boil in solid oil;
  • replace (if repair is no longer possible).

Instructions for self-replacement of the squeeze chain


Removing the chain with a squeeze.

Usually, an auxiliary tool is used to remove the chain from the bike - a squeeze. With its help, it is easy to remove even a one-piece chain. The sequence of work is as follows:

  1. Decide on the section of the chain for parsing. In case of re-disassembly of the chain, it is preferable to take the non-repairable section of the chain.
  2. Insert the chain into the squeeze so that the pin is opposite the clamping axis.
  3. Secure the chain with the knurled screw.
  4. Twist the handle, squeezing the pin out.
  5. Remove unnecessary links using a squeeze, pressing out the entire pin.
  6. Connect the chain links. In this case, the pin located in the cheek should point outward towards you. First you need to run the chain through the rear and front derailleurs. Then place the chain links one on top of the other so that the pin aligns with the bushing.
  7. Unclench the "cheeks" with pliers. Once the ends of the chain are in place, the outward-facing pin will prevent the links from separating.
  8. Insert a squeeze into the link so that the axes of the pin and the stem match perfectly, and rotate the funnels, pressing the pin into the hole.
  9. Check the symmetry of the position of the pin and the "cheeks" of the links. Correct their position if necessary.
  10. Check the links for mobility relative to each other. Increase mobility with pliers if necessary.

Important! On a high-speed bike, the chain is installed along the rollers of the switch at the back in accordance with the feed pattern. It is best to lock the chain in order to be able to change the chain many times in the future.

The sequence of actions for removing the chain from a bicycle without squeezing with your own hands

Pomace is a useful tool. However, it is not always at hand. What then is to be done? The prospect of staying in the middle of pristine nature somewhere many kilometers from the city does not look attractive. You can remove the chain from the bike without squeezing. It will not be easy to do it yourself, but it is quite possible. Let's consider in detail the options for parsing a chain with and without a lock.

Model with a lock


How to check if the chain has a lock? Easy peasy! A quick inspection to see if the chain has a link that is different from its neighbors. This is the castle. You can disconnect it by sliding the pins on each of the links with your hands or pliers. To assemble the chain, you need to do the same in reverse order.

Model without lock

In this case, it will not be easy without squeezing. And the result will be unpredictable. But, if there are no other options, choose the lesser of 2 evils. So, we remove the chain without a lock from the bike with improvised means in this order.

  1. Screw an ordinary vice to the table.
  2. Fix the chain in a vise by placing a nut on one side, the hole of which corresponds to the pin.
  3. Stick on the other side with a small screw with a cap.
  4. While holding the vise, push the pin into the nut hole with a ball.

Important! In order to open the circuit, it is not enough to free one side. You need to move the link and remove the chain, or add another ball and continue trying.

Summing up, we can confidently say that squeezing is an irreplaceable thing on the road for every cyclist. And if a broken chain with a lock can still be removed from a bicycle without this device, then, as for a chain without a lock, it will be difficult to do without it. However, in case of form major circumstances, you can use the instructions above.

Disconnecting and reassembling a chain is a necessary skill to not only fix the problem along the way, but also identify other drive problems.

Although a thorough washing and cleaning of the chain helps to remove the chain, try to disassemble and connect the chain as little as possible, especially this applies to Shimanov chains, because every time you need a new connecting pin, which is sold in all decent bike stores (it turns out that there are no such in Russia . - Approx. Transl.).

1. When opening the circuit, first of all fix it correctly in the squeeze. The chain should lie on the outer guide - the one that is farthest from you (the inner one will be needed later, when connecting the chain).


2. With the chain correctly attached to the outer guide, screw the squeeze spout into the chain pin. If you don't have a Schiemann chain, be careful not to screw it in too deeply, because you will have to remove the entire link if the pin pops out completely (on some pomace there is a special stop to prevent this). If you have a Shimano chain, then squeeze the pin out to the end.

3. Now remove the chain. If you don't have a Schiemann chain with a pin sticking out of it, then you will not be able to push it through the rear derailleur and cassette, so you have to spin it around.


4. Place the chain in a washing container and completely fill it with cleaning liquid. Using a stiff brush, brush the chain well on both sides and between the links. Finally, rinse the chain in hot water to completely remove the cleaning liquid and then lubricate with a water replacement liquid such as WD40.

5. Putting the switches on the smallest stars, put the chain in place so that the extruded pin sticks out in your direction. If you have a Shimano chain, it doesn't matter which side you put it on: you still have to insert a new pin. In general, the owners of the Shimanov chain go to point number six, the rest skip directly to the eighth.


6. For those with a Shimano chain: connect it using a special connecting pin. Keeping the chain “assembled”, insert this pin into it. Then, using a squeeze, press the pin into the chain until it is flush with your side and with a "surplus" of the pin sticking out from the opposite.

7. Holding the chain in your hand, use the pliers to bite off the excess part of the Shimano connecting pin. The chain is now ready for use. Check: the link should not be tight at the junction, but if this happened, then see point nine.


8. In order to connect a non-Sziemannian chain, the following must be done. Using the outside guide, position the chain in the squeeze and start pushing the pin back into the chain, but not all the way. Stop when there is still about 1 mm, and on the other side the pin has already entered flush.


9. Most likely, on non-Shimanov chains, you will find that the link becomes tight, you just have to insert the pin back into it. To loosen the link, place the chain on the inner rail (closest to you) and gently push the pin all the way down to the end of the chain. During this, the sidewalls of the link are unbent enough for free rotation of the link.

10. Remove the squeeze and check with your hands that the link rotates freely, without interference. Also, make sure the pin is inserted far enough to connect the chain on both sides.

Tools for the job

Pliers

Chain

Cleaning liquid

Cleaning brush

Sink container

High-quality pomace

Water displacement fluid (WD40, GT85, etc.)

Connecting pin "Shimano" (if you have a Shimano chain)

Removing the chain from a bicycle with a special tool is a matter of seconds. When you start removing your bike chain, remember that there are two types of chain connections:

  • using a special "pin" - this technology is most often used by Shimano and Campagnolo;
  • with a special lock - this type of connection is used by Sram and KMC.

You can often find Shimano chain with a lock. Despite the fact that the manufacturer himself uses pins, our people install locks, and rightly so - the installation of locks is simple and takes less time.

How to remove a bicycle chain without a lock using a squeeze

To remove the chain from the bike without a lock, we need a special tool - a squeeze. The procedure is extremely simple: insert the chain into the squeeze and squeeze out the pin - that's it, the chain is removed.

When attaching the chain to the bike, the new pin is pressed into place of the old one. We do not recommend using the same pin twice - as practice shows, most often the chains break in these places.

How to remove a chain from a bicycle with a lock

Removing a chain with a lock from a bike is much easier than without it. The presence of a special tool is desirable for your convenience, but not necessary, since the chain with a lock can be removed with your own hands. To remove the lock from the chain, you need a key that resembles a pair of pliers. By the way, the latter can also be used when dismantling the chain with a lock.

With a little skill, the lock can be removed from the chain using pliers - then you free yourself from buying a special tool.

The photo shows three steps to release the lock using pliers:



The following shows how to remove the lock from the chain with your own hands using a regular thread.

After using the bike for a long time without maintenance, the chain often starts to sag. How to shorten your bike chain at home? What is required to determine the correct length? Let's look for answers to these and other questions in the presented material.

What factors affect bike chain lengthening?

A number of factors lead to wear on the axles, the so-called pins, of the bicycle chain. Firstly, deposits in the form of old oil accumulate between the structural elements, on which dust and small impurities adhere. In addition, stretching can cause undue stress on the chain when climbing steep climbs on the bike. Another reason is the end of the chain's service life, the destruction of its elements as a result of impacts, metal corrosion. To avoid discomfort during the operation of the bike, you need to figure out

How to determine the optimal length?

Before figuring out whether it is possible to shorten the chain on a bicycle with your own hands, you need to find out how long it should have for comfortable movement. To understand this issue, it is enough to throw the chain over the largest sprockets, both in the area of ​​the rear and front chassis of the bike. Next, you need to open one of the links. Finally, tighten the chain as much as possible. It is enough to add a couple of centimeters to the resulting length so that the chain is not overstressed during driving.

Preparation for dismantling

To make it easier to work with the chain, it is worth cleaning it first. The simplest way- wipe it with a regular piece of material soaked in kerosene. You can also use a special wash, such as AB-80 or WD-40.

Tools

How to shorten the chain on a speed bike or mountain bike? Several tools can be used to sever links. First of all, you should pay attention to the special pomace. The latter is a simple device resembling a manual bed with a rod, which exerts pressure on the axles (pins) of the links. You can buy such a tool at any point selling sports equipment. Its purchase will cost from 500 to 1000 rubles.

If it is not possible to buy pomace, then you will have to use the means at hand. We are talking here about a hammer and a metal bar, which will serve as a punch for extracting the axes of the links. You will also need a couple of nuts that will fit under the chain links.

How to shorten a bicycle chain using a squeeze?

To do the work, resorting to the operation of a special tool, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

  1. Set the squeeze to a position in which its pin will be in the center of the chain link axis.
  2. Perform rotational movements with the tool until the axle is almost completely out of the link.
  3. Disconnect the chain and, if necessary, carry out similar operations with its remaining sections.
  4. Remove unnecessary links and connect the structure.

Once you've figured out how to shorten your bike chain, you need to figure out how to connect it. A narrow half-link must be inserted between the wide cheeks. Then the axle should fit completely into the bore of the hub. Next, you need to assess the mobility of the links. If it is insufficient at the joint, the hinge can be worked out with pliers.

How to shorten a bicycle chain without squeezing?

The lack of a dedicated tool for separating chain links is not critical. As mentioned above, a metal pin, nail, etc. can serve as an alternative to squeezing. You will also need a hammer here, with which the axles will be knocked out of the links.

With this approach to business, the main thing is to be careful. After all, sloppy, too strong blows can lead to deformation of the link plates. To prevent this from happening, ordinary nuts must be placed under the chain elements in advance.

For those who are new to shortening a bicycle chain without using a special squeeze, it is recommended to practice first. For these purposes, it is worth using an old chain or separate, unnecessary links. Such work requires a certain skill. Therefore, before acting on a serviceable chain with a hammer and a punch, you need to perform the above steps several times and evaluate the result of your own labors.

Finally

So we figured out how to shorten the bike chain. As you can see, it is possible to cope with such a task not only with the help of special squeeze. To get the job done, it is sometimes enough to use the tools at hand that can be found in every home.

Depending on the riding style, the question of removing the chain arises either almost immediately after the start of riding, for example, in a trial or downhill, or, after many kilometers of walks, when maintenance and replacement of the chain is required.

Chain Removal Situations

It is very important, and there may be several reasons for removing the chain:

  • Deep cleaning - it is recommended to remove all elements from time to time and clean them of grease and accumulated abrasive.
  • Damage and replacement of links.
  • Replacing a worn out chain.
  • Changing the length with a new combination of stars, for example, on a mountain bike.

Home wear is primarily determined by elongation. An overstretched chain is cause for concern as misaligned links will severely damage the sprockets and can be hazardous to derailleurs.

It is quite difficult to notice wear by eye, and to determine it there is an indicator - the length of 24 links:

  • if it is equal to 305 mm (304.8 is the value for a new set), everything is in order;
  • 306.5-307.5 mm - it's time to change;
  • 307.5 mm - if the bike was still in use with such wear, then most likely the entire set of sprockets is damaged;
  • 308 mm is the value of the damaged transmission.

Example of stretched links

Objectively, it is recommended to service the transmission every 500 kilometers, but this value is not fixed, since even 50 kilometers on rough terrain with an abundance of sand and mud in terms of wear can correspond to another thousand on clean city roads.

Some people choose to cut the chain, but the stretch is usually evenly distributed and the links can still damage the stars that cannot be repaired.

Important points

In addition to conventional devices, there are models with a lock - a special link, which is slightly different in shape from the others, and allows you to open the link with the help of reverse tension without using a squeeze or other tools, the main thing is to put the lock link correctly. It is not recommended to open the links next to the lock, as this will reduce the reliability of the entire mechanism.

It is very important to remember how the chain is connected to the system, cassette and switches before starting removal - without a little experience in installation and dismantling, it may be difficult to put it back on.

Standard withdrawal process

All guides describe the same removal procedure. This will require, first of all, a small set of tools - without them it will be quite difficult.

Tools

  • key for removing the rear wheel;
  • pliers for holding segments and pins;
  • squeeze - a device for pressing out pins, without a lock - the most important tool in the process.

Process

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to remove the chain from a bike:

  1. We clean the links from dirt - it will interfere with each subsequent step.
  2. Removing the rear wheel is optional, but working without it is much easier.
  3. Squeeze out the pin (the metal cylinder that closes each link) using a squeeze.
  4. Disconnect one link.
  5. Remove the outermost links from the switches.

The reverse sequence is the same - put the chain in place and assemble the structure back, riveting the pin with a squeeze, and rotating it in the opposite direction.

No tools

In the absence of squeeze, you can install everything back without it. Pliers and any sturdy cylinder, for example, a small hexagon, will help. By gently clamping the cylinder, the pin can be riveted similarly to the work of the squeeze, it just requires a lot more attention and application of forces.

Models with a lock can be unhooked using a tight rope or cable. This allows for prompt repairs literally in the field, for example, when a chain suddenly breaks on a short hike.


Removing the locking link without tools

Conclusion

Removing the chain from a bike is very easy if you have a simple tool or basic knowledge of the process. The most important thing is to act with caution, as forceful action with extrusion can be dangerous.

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