All cyclists sooner or later face the need to remove and then install the chain on a bicycle that has a gear selection function. This procedure is necessary to carry out periodic cleaning and lubrication of the chain, repair work related to the rear wheel, or to directly replace the chain itself when it has reached its end of life. Despite the fact that this operation is relatively simple, novice cyclists may have a number of questions during its implementation.

Since the chain has already been removed from the bike, then most likely you already know what type of chain the bike is equipped with - locking or solid chains, and you also have necessary tool, namely with a special squeeze, for working with chains of a continuous type.
How to put a chain on a speed bike
A high-speed bike, in contrast to a singlespeed, requires a slightly different algorithm of actions.

After installing the chain on your speed bike, you need to check that it is correctly installed. To do this, you need to turn the pedals and try to shift forward and reverse gears. If there are no jams and extraneous sounds, then the chain is installed correctly.

How often should the chain be cleaned and lubricated
It is recommended to clean the chain after removing it from the bike and lubricate it approximately every 100-150 km. At the same time, it should be noted that this recommendation is valid only when correct use different types of lubricants according to weather conditions. If, for whatever reason, you have applied a lubricant for wet weather and ride your bike in dry weather, then there is a high probability that it will get dirty with dust much faster.

It should also be noted that there are special devices that allow you to clean the chain without removing it from the bike.

When the chain needs replacing
To determine the degree of chain wear, use a vernier caliper to measure the distance between 24 pins (axles) of the chain. The allowable distance is between 304.8 and 306.4 mm. If the distance exceeds the upper limit, then the chain must be replaced.

For more even wear on the bike drivetrain, experienced cyclists advise having a set of three chains and alternating them periodically on your bike.

At the end of the article, we bring to your attention a saw, which demonstrates the entire process of installing a chain on a high-speed bike.

The popularity of two-wheeled eco-friendly vehicles is beyond doubt. Bicycles with speeds have become especially popular. But, the pleasure of riding is obtained if the bike rolls easily, without making any extraneous sounds. Therefore, the question of how to set the speed on a bike correctly is relevant for many cyclists.

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After all, it is the inability to switch and configure them that leads to the creation of emergency situations on the roads and injuries. Buying two-wheeled bicycle in the store, you can ask the dealer for help, who will adjust the speeds, making your ride safe.

If you need to make the settings yourself, you need to read the instructions, which are easy to find on the Internet by specifying a specific bike model in the search box.

The cyclist's speed changes depending on the situation, so the coin, the signal from which goes to the speed switch, which throws the chain onto the rear sprocket of the bicycle, should be within his reach, i.e. on the frame or handlebars.

The bike has two derailleurs, one in the front and one in the back. They are also responsible for maintaining the optimum chain tension. The derailleur resembles a parallelogram with springs and rollers that guide the chain.

It sits on the bike frame and is held in place by a device called a “cock” - a metal holder that prevents damage to the derailleur.

Directly involved in the selection of gears is a cassette or a rear set of a bicycle transmission, which consists of gear wheels of different diameters mounted on the rear wheel.

There is also a front drivetrain set, also consisting of gears of different diameters. It is mounted with cranks that hold the pedals needed to drive the transmission on the bicycle axle (at the front of the frame).

When do you need to adjust the speeds?

There are three such cases:

• if the cable is stretched or torn, the transmission of commands from the coin is disrupted and there is a need for adjustment;
• wear of the return spring located on the cassette leads to the performance of functions not in full (failure when switching speed, etc.);
• deformation of the "cock" or switch, arising from aggressive driving.

Trouble-shooting

For the bike's gear shifting to always be effective, there must be a derailleur and a cable in good condition, on which the operation of the latter depends.

You need to tighten the cable using the drum located on the coin. In order for the cable to work properly, it must be lubricated periodically. Gear chains also need to be lubricated so that no abnormal noise occurs when cycling to ensure easy shifting and reduce friction.

You can determine the state of the "rooster" visually or using a special device. It can be easily repaired or replaced by checking if the switch, which has the most weak point a parallelogram is considered.

During the operation of the bicycle, the screw that regulates the chain tension may fail.

What tools are needed to tune bike speeds?

Usually they all come with a bike: pliers, a screwdriver, a set of hex keys or open-end wrenches.

What do you need to know about customization?

Setting the speed on a bike begins with adjusting the height and angle of the front derailleur, which should not touch the gears, as well as be far from them. It is correctly fixed if it is 3 millimeters above the largest toothed wheel. Adjust the angle means that the switch must be set parallel to the rotation of the wheels.

The following bolts are used to adjust the gear shift:

Putting the chain in the extreme left position, disconnect the cable by unscrewing the nut that holds it or the bolt. After that, proceed to adjusting the gears, ensuring that they are on the same straight line, for which they tighten the bolt (marked "High" or "H") indicated in the picture. After completing the adjustment, we tighten the fixing cable with the screw again.

For further adjustment, put the chain in the extreme right position, i.e. the largest at the back and the smallest sprocket at the front). Adjust the gears with the "Low" or "L" bolt until they are in line.

That is, at the first stage, the setting is made maximum speed using the screw indicated with the letter "H" and the smallest gear wheel, trying to put the wheel and switch roller parallel.

The next step is to tune the largest cogwheel corresponding to the lowest speed. To do this, we tighten the screw on the switch, marked with the letter "L", again trying to position the roller and this wheel in parallel.

Then you need to set the position on the switch handle that will correspond to the highest speed.

Next, we adjust the rear derailleur, for which we install a chain on the small gear wheel and the largest rear gear. Scrolling the pedals backward, adjusting the chain tension with a screw, bring the upper roller (as close as possible) to the gear wheel. This is necessary for smooth gear shifting.

After setting the front switch correctly, you can proceed with the configuration. Now we put it on the large rear sprocket and the small front sprocket.

Achieve a distance of 1 mm between the frame and the chain. To do this, first loosen the control cable for adjusting the screw L, then fix it with the screw.

Finally, move on to fine tuning by moving the chain to the center position on both sprockets. Use the screw highlighted in the photo. Both gears must be in the same plane.

Important: when the stars are lined up in one line, a deviation of a few millimeters is allowed. But, because of this, gear changes are worse. A test run will help to identify all the shortcomings.

How to set up the correct gear shifting?

The adjustment is carried out by analogy with the adjustment of the rear shift using a metal stop and two bolts shown in the photo below.

The final setting of gears is carried out on the front derailleur, when the chain in front is on the large gear wheel, and on the small one at the back. This operation is carried out with a screw H until a distance of 1 mm is achieved between the chain and the frame.

A test drive will tell you if the setting is correct.

If it is difficult to shift at low speed, you need to adjust the cable on the front derailleur. If the chain is heavy on the large wheel, adjust the cable tension on the same adjuster.

How do I tune the gears on a mountain bike?

The setup is done in five steps. If you need to adjust both switches, it is recommended to start from the rear. First you need to make sure that the cable is working properly. In the second step, inspect the chain tensioner, which must be installed strictly parallel to the cassette sprockets.

This is achieved by pulling the switch. When the requirements are met, proceed to setting the gears. Place the chain on the smallest sprocket, set the highest speed, and then use the High screw to make the small star show the mark of the derailleur roller.

At the next step, the lowest speed is fixed, for which, setting a large one, turn the Low screw until the roller is level with the large star. The chain is on the largest sprocket. Tighten the bolt well.

If your bike has a digital display, the cable tension can be adjusted while riding. Otherwise, the correctness of the adjustment is determined empirically by performing a test ride. With a difficult set of speed, the cable must be loosened, with a difficult decrease, tighten it.

Finally, step five - adjusting the smooth gear shift. Putting the chain on a small sprocket in the front and a large sprocket at the back, they pedal, bringing the roller and sprocket closer together. This completes the adjustment.

Video: Setting bike speeds

A bicycle chain is one of the main components of a bicycle. Many are stunned by the question of how to tighten the chain on a high-speed bike? Special skills and the presence of a special tool for this operation are not required. The actions can be performed independently, it is enough to follow the instructions exactly.

Reasons for a meeting or breakup

One of the main parts of a bicycle is the chain. But even with normal driving, it can fly off or burst. The main reasons for the breakdown:

1. Damage to one of the stars transmission systems. Speed ​​bike transmission systems are divided into collapsible and non-collapsible. Replacement of the star is possible in a collapsible system. The non-separable transmission system is completely changed, complete. If one sprocket is damaged, driving is possible at speeds that remain serviceable.
2. Incorrect speed setting... The front and rear derailleurs have special bolts that adjust the transmission. If these are the bolts, then there is a possibility that the chain will fly off when shifting gears.

Tensioning the bike chain

The mechanism can be tensioned independently, both on high-speed models with gear shifting, and on bicycles without them.

In order to properly tension the chain on the bike, especially if it is, you will need wrenches (which usually come with vehicle) and a little patience.

On bicycles without speeds

Before starting to work with this element of an ordinary bicycle, which is different from others, you should know the basic rule - do not pull the chain to the state of the string... The normal state of this node is considered to be sagging up to 5 mm.

How to tension a chain on a regular bicycle, sequence of operations:

1. The vehicle is overturning. To avoid damaging the seat or the surface of the steering wheel, you can put small pieces of soft material under them.
2. The rear wheel is supported by two nuts. To work with the chain, they must be loosened.
3. As a consequence of the movement of the wheel along the inclined grooves, it is necessary to adjust the required sagging.
4. After the recommended distance of 5 mm has been reached, rear wheel must be fastened with 2 nuts, which should then be carefully tightened. You don't have to put in a lot of effort.
5. A too tight mechanism will prevent the cyclist from pedaling freely. Also, when returning the transport to its original state, carefully monitor that the axle of the wheel runs parallel to the carriage shaft.

On expressways with gears

How to pull the chain on? The high-speed design provides tension on the link element by increasing the spring stiffness of the rear derailleur. If the length of the link element is incorrectly selected and subsequently replaced, the switch will not provide proper tension.

If there is too much slack, the chain will hit the frame. and gear shifting becomes difficult. Also, do not put too short a mechanism, the tension will accelerate the wear of the entire speed mechanism.

Important! Sometimes when installing new chain on a high-speed bike, you need to shorten its length, remove excess links.

This can be done in two ways:

1. Pull the chain over the largest front and rear sprocket. We pull on it, pushing the rear derailleur to the maximum forward. Add two links and get the optimal chain length.
2. We transfer the chain from the front to the largest star, from the back to the smallest one. Pull it up to such a position when:
   • the rear spreader frame will point straight down;
   • switch rollers must be in the same vertical line.

How can you shorten the chain?

Normal speedless bike chains are collapsible. One of the links has a special lock. Opening it will allow you to remove unnecessary links or add new ones.
Important! Before proceeding with the removal of excess links of a solid-riveted chain on a high-speed bike, a special squeeze is purchased.

With its help, you can carefully rivet the places of the clips, leave the required number of them, and then re-rivet.

There is another solution: in the absence of a tool, the pins on the links are ground using sandpaper. After that, they are removed.

How to select and install a chain damper

The damper is a simple structure made of metal High Quality, which prevents the link element from collapsing. For proper functioning, it must be correctly installed.

Installation procedure for the damper:

• remove the gear shift stars from the bike. On some models, the carriage must be removed;
• the largest star, which will be replaced by rocking, must be installed in place of the middle one;
• fix the structure in place of the carriage protrusions;
• lubricate all rubbing elements;
• put on the chain and tension it correctly.

Important! The damper should be extended towards the star so that it does not interfere with the free operation of the entire gearshift system.

By following the instructions above, you can figure out how to tighten the chain on a sports bike or do the same operation on a simpler two-wheeled vehicle.

Video

How to tighten the chain on a high-speed bike will help the following video.

Sooner or later, every avid cyclist has a chain break. Fortunately, there is no need to take your bike to an expensive repair shop if you can fix the situation yourself. The following tips will help you to as soon as possible fix the problem.

Steps

Replacing a broken chain

Assess the breakdown and try to do something about it. If the chain breaks while riding, roll the bike to the curb and lay it on its side, with the sprockets facing up. Inspect where the chain is broken - most likely the chain is dangling from the sprocket, and you can easily find the two broken ends. In a conventional chain, the links are connected to each other by a pin (pin, or cylindrical cup) that holds the plates of the inner link through which the pin passes, and a roller on top of the cup. Therefore, if you are an experienced cyclist and carry a chain mounting tool and spare parts, you can repair the chain yourself and re-tension it (see Method 2). Basically, bike chains fall into three categories:

• Chains with special rivets. These chains are supplied with special rivets from the manufacturer. If you do not have such rivets with you, then, to repair the chain, you will have to get to the nearest bike parts store.
• Trailing link chains. These chains have a special link with two rivets that connect the ends of the chain. If this connection breaks, then you will have to replace this link in order to repair the chain.
• Chains with "normal" links. Old, traditional chains are made up of standard links, each of which can be replaced with the same (if you have a tool).

Remove the broken chain. If you find that replacing the chain will be easier than repairing, then the first thing you need to do is remove the old chain. If it breaks completely, then just pedal and it will fall off the sprocket by itself. If the chain does not fall off during rotation, then it must be disconnected manually. This can be done with a squeeze, available at almost any bike store.

• Connecting chain links with a squeeze: Position the chain pin against the squeeze pin. Then tighten the pin screw while pushing out the pin. If you plan to reuse the chain, do not remove the pin completely, but only to a level sufficient to disconnect the links in the chain.
• After you disconnect the chain, pedal to release the chain from the cassette. If you want to replace the chain, do not forget to count the number of links in old chain(for bicycles with rear derailleur, allow for margin of error). Also consider your drivetrain type, as it determines the type of chain to fit your bike. For example, for a 9-speed transmission, a 9-speed chain is suitable, etc.

Raise the rear wheel. The next step is to thread the new chain through the rear derailleur. To do this, you will need to spin the rear wheel, which will be much easier if it is not on the ground. If you have a bike rack, or a post in the wall that you can hang your bike on, use this. If you don't have such benefits, just raise back part frames, placing something under it, for example, a box or cinder block.

Thread the chain through the rear derailleur. On most modern mountain bikes, the rear derailleur is a spring-loaded system of mechanisms that descend below the main rear sprocket. Threading a chain through this mechanism requires special attention, as driving safety depends on it. Take the “mum” (end of the chain without pin) of the pre-sized chain and loop it around the lower idler pulley and then around the upper one. If done correctly, the chain will run in an S-shaped manner. If S is uneven, it is possible that the chain does not fit into all the grooves of the rollers, or it is caught on something.

• There may be a small metal eyelet between the rear derailleur idler rollers. The chain must not touch it.
• Some bicycles, such as "wood grouse" (fixed-gear bicycles) or bicycles with planetary hubs, do not have a rear derailleur. In such cases, simply pull the chain over the sprocket and crank the pedal as advised in the next step.

Slide the chain onto the rear cassette. On mountain bikes the rear cassette is a set of multiple sprockets attached to the rear wheel. After threading the chain through the derailleur, slide it over the smallest sprocket in the cassette. After making sure the chain is securely through the derailleur and rests firmly on the sprocket, pull it slightly.

Thread the chain through the front derailleur. Most modern mountain bikes have a metal mechanism in the front sprocket area that moves the chain from one sprocket to another. Guide the front end of the chain through this switch. If the chain does not reach, slide the rear wheel a little further.

• Capercaillies, again, do not have a front derailleur, so simply slide the chain over the front sprocket as shown in the next step.

Slide the chain over the front sprocket. Place the chain over the smallest chainring. Pull it well and check that it rests on all the teeth of the sprocket, then turn the pedal.

Connect the ends of the chain. Now that the chain has been securely routed through all of the drivetrain, you can connect the ends and enjoy your ride again. Place the link to be connected (mum and dad) into the squeeze, on the stop that is closer to the fixing screw. While adjusting the position of the chain, move the pin to the pin to be clamped so that they are coaxial. Tighten the link with the retaining screw. Rotating the handle, clamp the pin into the link. Check the depth of the pin's immersion at all times. Failure to comply with this subtlety can lead to damage.

• One useful tool is the C-clip (a small thin piece of metal) that helps hold the two ends of the chain side by side. This makes the job a lot easier as you don't have to hold the two ends of the chain yourself. A bent paper clip can serve as such a C-shaped bracket.

Replacing a Loose Chain

1. Determine where the chain has come off. Sometimes the chain does not break, but simply leaves its normal position. Since it is still on the front and rear derailleurs in this case, no special intervention is required — all you have to do is put the chain back on the sprocket. If the chain fell off along the way, get off the bike, place it on its side, with the sprockets facing up, and find the dismount point. The chain normally falls off the front sprocket but remains on both derailleurs.

   • Look for places where the chain might jam. Take appropriate measures before your next trip.

2. Loosening the eccentric in case the chain is jammed. As mentioned above, sometimes the chain will get stuck between the rear sprocket and the frame. In this case, loosen the rear wheel eccentric and unscrew the eccentric nut so that the chain can be removed.

   • The eccentric is opened by releasing a small lever located in the center of the rear wheel. Then unscrew the nut on the opposite side of the lever and release the chain.
     • Remember to clamp the eccentric back before riding. The nut should be tight enough so that the lever is not clamped too tight or too loose. If the lever is too tight, loosen the nut slightly and try again. If the lever is clamped too easily, the nut must be tightened.

3. On bicycles with rear derailleurs, loosen the chain tension and tighten it over the front sprocket. Most bicycles have a spring in the rear derailleur to keep the chain tensioned while riding. Overcoming the resistance of the spring, tension the chain so that it can be slipped onto the smallest chainring. Then let go of the chain and make sure it is tight enough.

   • As a rule, you can now continue driving. At first, the bike may ride erratically until the chain sits in the correct position.

4. On bicycles without speeds, the chain is pulled over the chainring by rolling the pedal. As mentioned above, in many bicycles, for example, in "wood grouse" there are no speed switches. In this case, slide the chain onto the rear sprocket and, hooking it into as many teeth as possible on the bottom of the front sprocket, roll the pedal back. The chain should catch on and start winding around the sprocket. When the chain is wrapped around the last top tooth of the sprocket, it can function normally.

   • It will be easier to pedal if you raise the rear wheel. To do this, you can put the bike on a rack, or put some material under it. You can also ask someone to hold the rear wheel, or, as a last resort, just turn the bike over.

• It is not uncommon for the chain to fall off from time to time, but if this happens too often, specialist assistance may be needed.
• If you can, purchase a special tool called a chain tensioner. Buy yourself a couple and follow the directions on the package. Typically, you will need a Phillips screwdriver and a specific size allen wrench. These tools will help you maintain the correct chain tension.
• If your chain is still slack and you are unable to get help from a professional, you may need to remove a few chain links to shorten it. But, do not take this if you do not know how to remove the links correctly.
• Every cyclist should have basic knowledge and repair skills. This way you can not only save on maintenance, but also not find yourself in a hopeless position, being far from the bike workshop.

Cautions

• Braid long hair, tuck in clothing, and button up the fly before repairing the chain.
• It is best to use gloves when doing repairs to avoid getting your hands dirty with the grease.
• Do not put your fingers in the chain, otherwise they can be injured or lost altogether.

Replacing a bike chain is an essential skill for every home mechanic. The chain is a consumable for the transmission of a bicycle. Over time, it tends to stretch and wear out. So sooner or later the time will come for a replacement.

The video below shows the process of installing a new chain on a bicycle. This manual is suitable for both mountain bikes and road bikes.

How to replace a worn out chain

The steps below are the same whether you are mountain biking or cycling. Chain Splitter A tool for checking the chain. ... There are a few exceptions, but most chains from major manufacturers are compatible with each other's drivetrain components. However, you will need to match the speed of your transmission with the speed of your chain - for example, a 9-speed transmission will require a 9-speed chain.

Using a chain splitter, pull one of the pins from the bottom of the chain, or undo the quick link if installed. Once you have removed the pin, carefully remove the chain from the bike. If you've allowed your chain to wear too much, you may need to replace your cassette at the same time.

How to install a chain - video

Tools for the job

• Chain squeezing;
• Chain wear indicator (chain stretch tester);
• Bicycle spoke;
• Pliers;

Step-by-step instruction

The transmission elements of bicycles of most manufacturers, with rare exceptions, are compatible with each other. All you need to do is match the same number of transmission and chain speeds. For example, a transmission with nine gears would need a chain designed for the same number of speeds.

Slide the rear derailleur into the largest screw and from the front to the largest chain. Disengage the clutch mechanism on the rear derailleur, if you have one. Thread the end of the chain through the front derailleur and turn the handles so that there are a few inches underneath. Place the other end in the seat and place it on the cassette. Pull down on the rear derailleur.

Alternatively, you can measure 12 full links, and if that section of the chain measures 308mm or more, your chain is worn out and must be replaced with the cassette. For comparison, a new chain should measure exactly 8mm across 12 references. There are a huge number of chain tools available. For home tooling, a large tool makes the job of breaking and connecting the chain easy.

1. Removing the old chain

Using a chain pull, press out one of the rollers (the pin that connects the chain links) into the lower chain passage. If there is a lock link, then remove it. After removing the roller, carefully remove the chain from the bike.

If one chain is used for a long time without replacement, it may be necessary to replace the cassette as well.

You can spot a worn chain with a ruler as we mentioned above, but chain wear tools are a convenient way to check regularly. One of the most overlooked elements of regular cycling maintenance is the chain. Oh, we all know the chain needs to be lubricated regularly. The chain is made up of literally hundreds of metal parts that shake together, and this combination of metal parts then wipes down the other metal parts, i.e. the cassette and chain. The chain undergoes significant stress and strain, being heavily loaded and then unloaded when it returns to the rear derailleur, sometimes jerky.

2. Installing a new chain

Shift reverse and forward to the largest sprockets. If your bike has a clutch, loosen it.

Slip a chain over the front sprocket and feed the end through the front derailleur. Crank the pedals so that the end of the chain hangs down from the sprocket about 10 centimeters. Thread the other end through the rear fork of the bike frame and slide the cassettes over the largest sprocket. Lower the rear derailleur down.

It pulls against your cassette sprockets and chainrings. It must also pass the torsional forces from the cassette to the chains. This twisting is why the cross-chain is so discouraged that it will wear your chain, and therefore your cassette, faster. If your bike changes well, why would you want to replace your chain, which is measured as stretched? By replacing the chain regularly, your cassette will last longer. Of course, cassettes eventually wear out, but a worn chain will wear out your cassette faster, and chains are cheaper than cassettes.

Place the chain over the idler roller, pull it through the mechanism tabs, and wrap around the tensioner roller. Gently release the gearshift mechanism.

3. Measurement of the chain

Make sure the chain behaves properly when shifting into any gear without damaging other parts of the bike. To check, the chain must be installed on the two largest sprockets, front and rear. Even if you never drive in such a gear.

The chain meter measures the chain "stretch"; more accurately, it measures wear in the holes where the pin engages the chain side plates. These holes gradually wear out, and as the holes get larger, the chain gets smaller for longer. What are some options for replacing the thumb for a bike chain replacement? Some riders and riding conditions are more difficult than others, requiring more frequent replacement, as well as the inability to maintain your net and clean it up, and sometimes dramatically shorten its life.

Older bicycles equipped with 9, 8 or 7 speed chains can expect longer chain life, and these chains are more complex than more modern 10 and 11 speed chains. Be careful when you replace your chain as each chain brand and generation often has its own nuances. If you place the chain with the wrong side facing you, it will move very badly. Likewise, care should be taken when using the correct tools.

Align the two ends of the chain and identify the extra links to be removed. Use a piece of the bicycle spoke to lock the chain in this position.

When using Shimano chains, there should be a link with the inner plates at one end and the outer plates at the other. In chains from SRAM and KMC, there must be links with inner plates at both ends.

Typically, a chain tool that was made for 10 speed chains will not work properly with the new 11 speed chains and vice versa. You must carefully follow all of Campi's directions, including curling over the pin, or the chain will most likely not stick together.

Yes, you need special tools for this. If you have the right tools and plan on replacing your chain yourself, you will notice that manufacturer chains are usually coated with a sticky, thick, sticky lubricant that protects the unused chain from corrosion in transit. While you want to get this slime lubricant from the outside of the chain, do not soak your chain in the solvent to remove it. Many solvents will flush grease and grease out of bushings, increasing noise and wear.

After the required chain length has been determined, remove unnecessary links. Place the chain back onto the smallest sprockets.

Attention! On fully suspended mountain bikes, you need to make sure the chain is long enough to compress the suspension.

4. Chain connection

Shimano chains require a roller to connect both ends. After installation, the excess part of the roller is broken off with pliers.

At SRAM and KMC, a special locking link is inserted between the ends of the chain, then the plates are snapped into place. For a complete connection, special pliers are used, but you can use the following method.

While changing the chain isn't very difficult, it is often best left at a bike shop that has the right tools and knowledge to get the job done. Cut the chain too short and you can have potentially disastrous results, such as ripping the rear derailleur off the bike for too long and the bike will move a lot. You could cut the new chain to fit the length of the old one, but that assumes the old one was cut to the correct length, not always a safe bet.

Appropriate approach to bicycle sales. Don't gamble on your next bike or your game! For more information. There is limited space on the motorcycle. The engine, being heavy, should run in the middle of the bike. The wheels should go to the front and rear. Since the engine and rear wheel are far apart, we need to link them together in some way so that the engine can drive the rear wheel. One way is to have a pinion shaft on the motor output shaft and a rear wheel and use a chain to connect the two.

Rotate the pedals so that the locking link is in the middle of the upper aisle. Then hold the rear wheel to prevent it from spinning. Step on the pedals and the locking link will finally sit in place. Make sure the chain is installed correctly. Pedal your bike using all gears.

Chain Care

Regular cleaning and lubrication is the best way to extend the life of your chain. Use a bicycle chain lubricant. Lubricate each roller. Only lubricate the inside of the chain; there should be no lubricant on the outside.

Another method is to have a sealed shaft connecting the engine to the rear wheel, with matching seams at both ends to allow the disc to rotate 90 degrees. There is no point in describing it in words. They are exposed to small pieces of sand that rise from the road. They spin at high speed, which tends to throw what little oil puts on them. Chains either break, seize, or wear out.

To put the chain on the bike, it needs to be broken to trick it and then reattached. There are two main ways to connect a chain. First, you can use a special connecting arm that attaches to the side of the plate and holds it in place. Another way is to glue the chain closed, which involves hammering in a special pin until the end is slightly smeared over the side plate and holds it in place.

Do not spin the chain in the opposite direction and apply the lubricant in a hurry. In addition to the increased consumption of funds, you can overload the links. Always wipe off excess grease with a rag. After driving in wet weather, wipe the chain dry and re-lubricate. This will prevent rust and chain stretching.

Worn links

It is believed that the chain stretches due to improper driving. In fact, the chain lengthening effect is due to wear on the rollers and pins. As the chain wears down, it will damage the sprocket teeth, causing the chain to slip. There are special tools for determining chain wear.

If the chain becomes unrelated to speed, you have big problems... The chains are heavy and if it gets disconnected while the bike is moving it does serious damage and is likely to block the bike. For this reason, be very careful when connecting the circuits. Do not reuse closing links as they loosen up when you take them off. If you have a riveted chain, check the rivet link to make sure it is flat enough not to let go of the side plate.

The most common way my chains die is through corrosion. Winter takes a heavy toll on salt and sand chains on the road, and freezing temperatures make it less attractive to go outside and cycle for a while. Typically, by the end of winter, there are a lot of captured links in the chain that jump whenever they follow the sprocket.

An easier way to determine chain wear is to measure 12 links. If the number turns out to be 308 mm or more, then the chain together with the cassette must be replaced. In the new chain, the 12 links are exactly 304.8 mm long.

Forcing and chain wear indicator

There is a wide variety of pomace different sizes from various manufacturers. It is worth noting that this tool is definitely a must for those who want to change the chain themselves. Chain wear can be determined using a standard ruler. But for constant monitoring, it is better to purchase a special tool - a chain wear indicator.

There are many ways to prevent corrosion, albeit careful selection of which chain to buy and regular maintenance. Majority bicycle chains are ring chains. This means there is a small rubber ring at each pivot point. The purpose of this O-ring is to trap the grease inside the rod and lubricate it. This means that o-ring chains have a much longer service life than simple chains. However, one problem with the o-ring is that if the grease is ever flushed out of the chain, then the o-rings will make lubrication very difficult.

On domestic road bicycles, the chains are split, one segment of such a chain has a special lock. On sports bicycles, it is not possible to make the chain detachable, because this lock interferes with gear shifting.

When buying a new chain, you need to know which chains fit the system and cassette on your bike.

In addition, the O-rings themselves can be damaged by various fluids and rough handling. The instructions included with my last chain recommend cleaning the chain by wiping down a paraffin-soaked rag and then relubricating. All chains "stretch" during their lifetime and eventually need to be replaced. Chains do not stretch as well as elastic bands- they get longer because the metal in the links gradually wears out and increases the overall length of the chain. As the chain stretches, the amount of free play increases and you end up having to move the rear wheel a little to take up the slack.

For 10-speed cassettes, use a 6.2mm chain, e.g. SHIMANO CN-HG95
For 9-speed cassettes, use a 6.5mm chain such as SHIMANO CN-7701 or CN-HG93.
For 6 - 8 speed cassettes, use a 7.1mm chain, such as SHIMANO CN-HG50 or CN-IG51.

	Chains are sold in two types - boxed and standard (almost like computer components in Retail and OEM supplies). Typically, the box has a replaceable pin (pin) for connecting chain segments. One end of such an axle is sharpened, which makes it easier to install. If there is too much slack, the chain will jump around the die whenever you change speed. If there is too little slack, the chain will overextend as you slow down and the rear end of the bike becomes unweighted. When you replace the chain, always replace the sprockets - they are still much cheaper than the chain. This is an implausible savings, as installing a new chain on top of the worn sprockets will cause your chain to wear out faster. It is much easier to loosen the bolt that holds the chainring in place while the chain is still on the bike. To press in the chain, a squeeze is required. After the axle is pressed in, this pointed end must be broken off with pliers.
	If the chain is not equipped with a special pointed axle (like many chains sold without a box), then the axle must be inserted into one of the segment plates. You put the bike in a high gear and have someone on the rear brake when you loosen the retaining bolt a little. Since the front sprocket is still chained to the rear socket, it cannot rotate when you try to loosen it. His Hippocratic Oath: "The more you know about the rider, the better you can help him or her." The bike must be adapted to fit the body, not the other way around. And it takes a good rider mechanic for a mechanic to know exactly what the cyclist wants - and needs. Raise the bar: "A lot of road racers are looking for an aggressive racing stance with a bar 6-10cm lower than saddle height, but it stresses your back, neck and shoulders." Racers spend thousands of kilometers each season tuning into this aggressive stance. Try to move the bar closer to the level with the saddle for more comfortable ride... "As you gain more miles, you can move to a more aerodynamic position." To press in the chain, a squeeze is also required.
	Some chains are sold with a special link. In this case, no tools are required to connect the chain. These links are sold separately. By the way, it makes sense for cyclists going on a long bike trip to include the connecting link in their personal repair kit: just in case. Naturally, when purchasing a connecting link, one must take into account the width of the chain, for 8, 9, 10 - speed chains the connecting links are different.

Installing the chain using a connecting pin (axle).

	We combine the open links of the chain. If we use a replaceable axis, then we insert it with a pointed end into the holes of the segment.
	We fill the chain in the squeeze, and fix it with a clamping screw (in the photo - on the left). Important note- Many pomaces have two chain seats. That is, the chain can be inserted into the squeeze in two ways. The seat located closer to the fixing screw is intended for pressing out and pressing in the axle. It is there that you need to fill the chain for removal and installation. (As pictures show) The other seat is only used to adjust the position of the axle inside the hub. If you try to press in the axle when the chain is tucked in this seat, you can damage the squeeze or the chain.
	Press the axle into the chain by rotating the squeeze handle. We stop when the axis is almost completely immersed in the hole (compare with adjacent links). We take out the chain from the squeeze. If we use a replaceable axle, then break off the pointed end with pliers.
	We check that the chain in the just connected segment bends freely, without jamming. If this is not the case, then we check how far the ends of the axis protrude from different sides of the chain. If necessary, the axle must be pushed in the desired direction with a squeeze. To do this, tuck the chain into another seat of the squeeze (the one that is closer to the handle of the squeeze). Then both ends of the axis will be visible and its position can be easily checked visually.

Installing the chain with a connecting link.

Before installing the chain, set the front and rear derailleur to the positions corresponding to the smallest sprockets.

No tools are required to rivet a chain with a connecting link, and the process itself is simple and straightforward.

	We put the chain on the bike. It is important to slide the chain onto the tensioner rollers correctly. The lower roller bypasses the chain on the left, and the upper one on the right.
	We insert both halves of the connecting link into the extreme links of the chain.
	We combine the extreme links.
	We make sure that the connecting link fits correctly, without distortions. And we just pull the chain with the effort of our hands.
	We check that the chain just connected in the segment just connected bends freely, without jamming. After assembly, the chain must be slightly bent in the transverse direction to ensure better mobility links.