Frequently asked questions how to fix a chain children's bike ? This is a common and common problem especially in children's bikes.

Why does the chain break?

- This is mainly due to the fact that the chain was initially overtightened, and when driving under load due to tension, the chain lock simply does not stand up and flies off.

- This can also happen if the front sprocket is deformed.

— The chain lock was not properly latched.

What to do if the chain on a children's bike breaks?

You can bring the bike to ours or fix it yourself.

In case you decide to repair the bike on your own.

You still have a chain, but most likely chain lock lost and you will have to buy a new one. It is called the chain lock for. Estimated cost 5,000 - 10,000 bel. rubles. Sold in almost all bike shops. and looks like this:

How to fix a chain on a children's bike?

To do this, you need to remove the chain protection if it prevents you from reaching the sprockets. Put the chain on the sprockets and connect it, from the side of the frame, with the chain lock, which has two guides.

Then slide the record onto these guides.

And using a screwdriver or pliers, put the lock on the rails until it clicks. It should fall into the grooves and not hang out.

After you have installed the lock, check the "slack" of the chain, to do this, press the chain with your finger, if it is pressed tightly and strongly stretched, you should loosen it slightly. Simply unscrew the right bolt that holds the wheel (usually a 17 wrench is required for this if the side wheels are not installed, if they are installed you will also need a 15 wrench), put your finger on the chain and tighten the bolt. The chain should “sag” no more than 0.5 cm.

If the chain was in the sand, beforehand, it is better to clean and wash it, and lubricate it after installation (). Install the chain guard and go)

One of the most common problems speed bike owners face is chain wear or damage. In order for the bike to serve as long as possible without causing trouble, it is necessary to follow the recommendations for regular care and maintenance. Knowing how to install the chain on speed bike, you will avoid unnecessary costs for repairs by a specialist.

What is the purpose of replacing the chain?

Experts recommend changing the chain on a speed bike every time you reach a mileage of 1.5-2 thousand km.

This is due to the rather rapid wear of the node. It stretches, which leads to increased loads on the transmission. As a result, speed performance suffers. Difficulties also arise when switching speeds. Steep climbs become impossible and the performance of the bike as a whole decreases. In addition, when throwing the chain between the sprockets, there will be no rigid fixation, and it will begin to slip.

Determining chain wear on a speed bike

To eliminate possible problems with the operation of a two-wheeled vehicle, it is necessary to learn how to determine the degree of wear of the assembly.

To determine chain wear, measure the distance between 24 pins. The indicator should vary from 304.8 to 306.4 mm. If this value is exceeded, the chain must be replaced.

Replacing a chain on a speed bike: the subtleties of the process

There are two types of chains on bikes: with pins or with locks. Chains with a lock are found only on children's bicycles. Replacing them is not difficult. Chains with pins need a special approach.

Experts do not recommend removing the assembly using improvised devices. This may cause damage to neighboring parts. To replace the chain, a special tool is used for the connector and to connect its links - squeeze.

When replacing a chain on a speed bike, you should follow a certain sequence:

• setting the pin parallel to the squeeze pin
• screw tightening
• extrusion and extraction of the pin.

After these manipulations, the part is removed without difficulty. Installing a new element is carried out in a similar way. The bike needs to be turned over and removed rear wheel. The chain is assembled directly on the frame and stretched over the sprockets. The wheel is fixed last. If necessary, the links can be removed and increased. For this, squeeze is also used.

If you do not have confidence in your own abilities and a positive outcome of the planned event, entrust the replacement of the chain to specialists. This service is inexpensive, performed within half an hour. By contacting specialists, you can minimize the risk of damage to other important parts of the bike during repairs.

How to replace a chain on a bicycle with speeds - instruction + video

Anyone vehicle maintenance is required. Bicycles are not included in the exception. Their key element in the transmission unit is the chain. High-speed bikes are inherently more "finicky" for normal functioning. The frequency of replacement or maintenance of the chain mechanism is largely determined by the style of riding. For example, bike trial enthusiasts do this while riding. When and how does the chain change on a speed bike?

What you need to know about the types of bicycle chains?

Chains for bicycles are lockable and solid. Disconnecting the lock variation is not difficult. It is convenient to do this with an ordinary thread (wire), threading it into neighboring links (before and in front of the lock) and tightening the loop. The main thing is to avoid damage to the lock and not lose it.

Disclosure of a continuous chain is possible only with a special squeeze, although the procedure itself also cannot be classified as complex tasks:

• It will be necessary to install the chain in the position of pressing-in-pressing the axle.
• Tightening the screw to pull out the pin.

Axial pressing is inherent in the opposite sequence: the connection of the links and the indentation of the pin by means of a screw.

For your information . The use of squeeze is accompanied by loosening of the axis, therefore, the repetition of disengagement is the lot of another link.

What tools is important to have to replace the chain:

1. A wrench to remove the rear wheel.
2. Pliers to hold segments and pin.
3. Squeeze. As noted above, this device presses and presses the pins.

Chain removal procedure in standard variation - step by step instructions

Cyclists who do not have sufficient experience in such matters are advised to memorize the general scheme, reflecting the location of the chain on the system, cassette, switches. Then the procedure for its subsequent installation will not cause difficulties.

Once all the nuances are fixed in memory (or on paper), you can proceed to the next steps:

• Cleaning links from mud accumulations. If this is not done, the dirt will be a significant obstacle to the next steps.
• Removing the rear wheel. The absence of this detail simplifies all actions, although experienced craftsmen safely skip this stage. In fact, it does not apply to mandatory measures.
• Extrusion of a pin present in all links (a metal cylinder that closes the link). This is where squeeze is applied.
• Separation of one link.
• Derivation of extreme links from the system of switches.

On this, the extraction of the chain (worn or requiring cleaning) can be considered complete. The procedure itself is quite easy if you have the tool and basic knowledge. The accuracy of execution and the absence of forceful actions in the process of pressing out are very important.

Step by step installation process bicycle chain in the form of instructions

With bikes that have one gear (single speeds), everything is limited to hanging the chain on the parts of the star configuration and locking or pressing the pin. The design of high-speed bikes involves some difficulties in this matter.

They can be identified as follows:

1. Derailleur lock on small chainrings.
2. Next, a chain is put on the teeth of the stars. It is important to take into account the location of the rollers involved in its tension.
3. Then the chain links are combined.
4. The chain is clamped and the axle is pressed in or the lock is closed.

On the final stage progress is checked. For this purpose, the pedals are scrolled. Incorrect installation is characterized by sagging of the installed element and difficult torsion. If this is not observed, the installation of the circuit is done according to all the rules.

In what cases, except for wear, is the chain removed:

1. For deep cleaning when it is necessary to remove lubricating compound and accumulated abrasive.
2. To replace damaged links.

How is chain wear determined?

A failed chain stretches, its links shift, damaging the sprockets, which negatively affects the switches. It is quite difficult to visually determine the degree of wear.

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The need to remove / install a bike chain arises for various reasons. Someone regularly boils it in paraffin or wax, someone decided to carry out a comprehensive cleaning in a can of gasoline, and someone got to such a state that and it needs to be changed. How to do this is intuitively clear, but for those who are new to the operation, it is difficult to do without explanations and answers to exciting questions.

At the crossroads of two technologies: methods for replacing a worn chain on a bicycle with speeds

The main goal of the procedure is to unhook the old chain and connect the new one together. Before doing anything, make sure how the chain is engaged now. It either represents a single whole, or has a detachable link (lock) in its design. This is important because the binding type determines the list necessary tool and, in fact, the method of service.

Lock/not lock

So, task number 1 in how to change a worn chain on a bicycle is to find out if there is a lock. It's hard to tell on a dirty chain, so clean it up. It is not necessary to clean in full accordance with the regulations.

It is enough to brush off the main layer of dirt from the side plates and pedal in the opposite direction. The shape of the detachable link is noticeably different from the others, and immediately catches the eye. In more detail its design can be studied in the photo.

Release techniques

• If there is a lock in the chain, it is enough to open it.
• If the chain is a single unit, it is necessary to press out one of the axles (pins).

How to change a chain without a lock on a bike with shifting gears

In the absence of a lock, the chain replacement technology is reduced to three operations:

1. Pressing a pin out of any link.
2. Shortening the new chain.
3. Setting and pressing the axle on a new bike chain.

How to remove a bicycle chain without a lock

First, place the chain closer to you so that it is convenient to remove it after opening and start a new analogue on the stars. To do this, it is enough to turn the rear derailleur to the extreme position (the smallest sprocket), and align the front derailleur with the third gear (the largest star).

Squeezing the pin out of the link is much easier than pushing it back in. Select one of the constituent elements of the chain and extrude the axle in any of the following ways:

• Tapping with a hammer through a knitting needle or a thin carnation.
• Squeezing with a hard tip fixed on the chain squeeze bolt.

Important! When tapping or pressing out, the back plate of the link must rest against something. For example, in the squeezing device, a special rib is provided for this. Using a knitting needle and a hammer, the bike chain can be placed on a metal substrate (for example, a rail, a weight) or a hard stone, but in such a way that the pin has somewhere to go.

It is more convenient to squeeze at the lower level. After disconnection, it is easier to remove the chain at idle, when the pedals are spinning in the opposite direction.

For your information. Do not press out the pin completely. It is very difficult to insert it into the outer plate. If you do not feel the position, proceed in steps: make a turn with the squeeze bolt handle, remove it, evaluate whether it is already possible to open the link. If yes, then the squeezing is considered completed, and in the case of “no”, put the squeezing device again and repeat the cycle of actions.

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How to shorten a chain

Usually a fresh chain is slightly longer than even a tired product. If you put it without shortening, the position of the rear derailleur will not correspond to the required one. The quality of gear shifting suffers from this.

The easiest way to calculate the right size is to compare the lengths of the old and new chain. It is not necessary to use a tape measure, it is enough to put them nearby. Combining both ends on one side, on the other we will see a discrepancy in dimensions. Extra links are pressed out according to the method already described, taking into account the recommendation for incomplete removal of the axis from the hole.

Attention! When removing extra links, follow the logic of their connection: the outer plates are mounted on the inner ones. External plates will not sit on similar external ones. Consider the design of the suspension: on double suspensions, the length of the chain should be enough in the position of full compression of the shock absorber.

How to fit a new bike chain

We will assume that all the requirements of technology, how to choose a chain for a speed bike , completed successfully. Those. in front of you is a part that fits the width of the rear and front stars and all that remains is to put it on:

• Position the product so that the extruded pin is closer to you.
• Route the chain over the system's large sprocket in the idle direction (reverse riding pedaling) by passing it through the front derailleur.

• Put the chain on the cassette and bypass the switch rollers according to the diagram shown in the figure.

For your information. It is possible to press the link axis only by squeezing. When pressing, ask an assistant or fix the rear derailleur with a piece of wire so that the chain on the lower tier sags. In this way, the risk of damage to the opposite plate can be virtually eliminated.

How to replace a worn lock chain on a speed bike

The technology is similar to the technique of changing a bicycle chain without a lock: remove the old one, shorten the new one and put it on. And we can say that here we can’t do without squeeze - extra links need to be removed with something.

Although here you can omit the recommendation about the incomplete pressing out of the pin - in the case of using a lock, it just needs to be completely removed. And then the alternative works 100%: the hammer and the knitting needle do their job, and nothing needs to be pressed in.

Attention! When removing extra links, see how the lock is installed: both ends must end with internal plates

According to the technology of replacing a chain on a bicycle with speeds, the detachable link is disconnected with special pliers. In fact, you can take hold of the castle area with both hands (preferably with gloves) and pull the ends of the chain together.

Lock installation

Pass the plates with the axles into the rollers, align all the grooves and spread the chain in the lock area in opposite directions, holding it with both hands. Again, suitable profile pliers can be used, if available.
To make the lock finally snap into place when there are no pliers at hand, follow the list of actions:

• Scroll the pedals so that the lock is on the upper tier.
• Hold the back wheel.
• Press your foot on the pedal. The section will stretch, and the link will sit as expected.

• Get a squeeze, even if the lock is present. The chain can break and this tool will come in handy on the way. In addition, shortening the bike chain with a squeeze is much easier. When choosing a release tool, focus on high-quality expensive models made of solid metal. The ideal option is to take a multi-set.
• Avoid using a padlock. The thing is practical and reliable. A chain with a split link is faster and more convenient to remove for the same routine cleaning before lubricating it.
• Do not use an old lock with a new chain. New - only new.

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Bicycle chain

The chain in a bicycle is one of the key components of the transmission. It is the maintenance of the chain in perfect condition that guarantees the adequate operation of the entire mechanism. When buying a bicycle, no one will choose a new chain, but over time, replacing a part that has become unusable is inevitable. How to choose the perfect chain for your bike? How many chains do you need to have in a "bicycle" farm? How to change the chain on your own, so as not to contact the bicycle master for every trifle? These skills and knowledge will not be superfluous.

Data windows located in the upper left corner of the video: This block contains two white windows with a blue line representing very important data. In the lower window, you see the pattern of oscillation movement on the axis: the blue line indicates the pattern of forces applied to the axis.

This pattern of intense and powerful vibration is directly transmitted to the tire contact areas, causing the tire's road contact patches to decrease and increase along the road like a ball ball periodically, following the same blue line pattern. The same pattern of powerful vibration is also transferred directly to the rider's bony joints, causing fatigue. During our unbalanced wheel testing, we also uncovered and documented new and disturbing evidence never before seen by the bicycle industry.

Chain: choice and competent care

For people who still remember, the suggestion “choose a new chain for a bicycle” sounds a bit wild. For some reason, then the chains served almost longer than the bike itself. The answer is simple: those bikes had only one speed, because the chain was constantly in calm state and did not wear out as quickly as on modern bicycles. Now even the most budget iron bike is equipped with the ability to change gears, which leads to chain wear. Modern chains are no doubt stronger and more reliable if they are able to withstand such loads in such operation.

We decided to name and give terminology to some negative results, which we recorded, which can be seen in this test data video, for example. Here we explain the chain of events that can be started by as little as 6 grams of unbalanced wheel weight, which most bike, wheel and tire manufacturers consider minor and harmless.

Whole wheel from axle to outer perimeter oscillate and produce centrifugal forces that can, for example, be 7 kg in the front wheel and 10 kg in the rear wheel - imagine sledgehammers! Now that the innocent 6 grams have started a few problems cascading through the bike and bike wheels.

• Then a cascade of really bad things starts to unfold.
• Now the tiny 6 grams have triggered and become an uncontrollable cascade of energy.

This means that even if a 90kg rider mounts this bike, the shaking is so powerful that it can cause the tire patch to still bounce down the road like a ball.

So, it's time to replace the chain on your own bike: what should you pay attention to, which chain to choose? Most popular manufacturers are KMC, Shimano and SRAM. In the lines of these manufacturers, you can find chains of various prices and various qualities. All these chains can easily replace each other and, if the cyclist has a desire, he can sort through the chains indefinitely until he finds the one that will completely suit him.

When in doubt, put the bike on a stand, have 5 or 10 adults hang on the bike as you spin the rear wheel to 80 km/h, and have all the adults try to stop the shaking. You will find that this is not possible as the violent shaking goes through all adults like Jello. This only happens with the rear wheel.

Imagine the front wheel doing the same thing at the same time! Dynamic Speed ​​Balance not only eliminates all the debilitating symptoms caused by unbalanced wheels, but raises levels of efficiency, performance, control and rolling safety to new levels never thought possible in the industry. The dynamic speed balance ensures that the mass has no oscillation, so it can continue to move smoothly and quickly without interruption.

ADVICE! For a cassette of 7-8 stars, you should purchase a chain for 8 gears, for 9 - for 9 and so on.

When purchasing a chain, you should pay attention to the labeling: usually companies put information about the quality of the chain in the numerical designation of the model. For example, CN-HG53 will be much simpler than CN-7701.

Once you've established that this isn't an issue, it's time to head to your local bike shop. You may need a new chain, new chainrings, a new cassette and new rims for the rear derailleur. It will be approximately £100 please. This is what chain wear wears out if you don't catch it early enough: it ruins the rest of the drivetrain. If you notice it early, you can only replace the chain.

All chains get badly worn sooner or later - sooner if they don't like it. The metal of the bushings and pins wears out, so the pins become even more spaced apart. It's not literally stretching, but you often hear the process called stretching. As the chain lengthens, the gaps in the chain do not mesh properly with the transmission teeth.

For adequate operation of the chain, it is important to be able to notice in time the moment when the chain already needs to be replaced or repaired, but the rest of the transmission is still safe and sound. Excessively worn chain not only threatens with driving problems, but also gradually “kills” the stars: in this case, you will have to change not only the chain itself, but also a rather expensive mechanism - the cassette, and sometimes the system. The most truthful way to determine chain wear should be considered not mileage (sometimes 100 km of off-road and dirt country walks will pass for 1000 km of calm city bike rides), but the length of 24 links at the chain:

This is the point of no return: the entire transmission is damaged and needs to be replaced. There is a way to prevent this: measure your chain. Once the chain is 75% longer, it's time for a new one. Once this is more than 1% more, the rest of the transmission will be worn out and will almost certainly need to be replaced too. Less than 5% wear is excellent, even with 10 speed gearboxes. More than 1% wear and it can still work fine if your bike only has one chainring and one sprocket - or e.g.

Measuring less than one percent wear may seem like the work of lab technicians. All bikes use a half-inch step chain. This is half an inch from the center of one pin to the center of the other. The distance between the two pins, i.e. the complete chain link, which is hinged and has both inner and outer side plates, is one inch. So 12 links is 12 inches. Place a steel ruler under the chain, with a zero under your "start" pin. The 24th pin should be at the 12" mark, assuming the chain has been disassembled.

• in the normal state, this figure is 304.8 mm;
• 306.5-307.5 mm - a reason to change the chain;
• 307.5-308 mm - signals not only chain wear, but also problems with sprockets;
• More than 308 mm - serious difficulties with the chain, cassette and system status.

Another way to “by eye” find out how worn out the chain is the following: after installing the chain on a large star, it should be lightly pulled with your fingers and check how many teeth are visible on the chain. If you can see two teeth on the star, the chain is worn out, but still suitable for riding, and three teeth indicate that the chain is completely worn out and needs to be replaced immediately. Also, extraneous sounds from a lubricated chain often signal its wear.

This is a simple measuring tool with pegs for 75% and 1% wear. You will hook one end of the chain and leave the other end of the chain. If it stands as shown in the picture, the chain is worn less than indicated on the tool. If the pin falls into the gap so that it is close to the chain, the chain puts on the specified amount - or more. If the chain is 75% worn, replace it. You should be able to continue using sprockets, cassettes and rims for a while longer.

When you measure the chain, make sure it is slightly taut. The rear derailleur will do it for you. On a single chain and sprocket bike, apply light pressure to one pedal with the rear wheel on the floor. This will stop the top chain travel from sagging the chain.

Replacing the chain on a bicycle: remove and install correctly

Experts advise following some simple recommendations that will allow the bike owner to avoid possible problems with chain:

• do not drive in heavily skewed gears;
• done on time will help you protect it from an early breakdown.
• do not use thick lubricants and products like WD40 as chain lubrication;
• use multiple replacement chains to extend their life.

The frequency with which you need to check your chain will depend on your weekly mileage, the conditions you cycle in, and how clean and well lubricated you keep your chain. Every two weeks should be enough. Muddy mountain bikes will go through the chains faster than road-only bikes. If your bike has a fully enclosed chainring, a protected chain can last for years.

Take your bike to a local shop or do it yourself. this is not difficult. The most important thing is to get the right one. Because the chains use the same half-inch pitch, the width and fine details vary. The 10-speed chain is thinner than the 8-speed chain and meshes with thinner transmission teeth.

Chain lock.

If the chain still needs to be replaced, it is important to approach this issue competently and skillfully. Before starting work, check which chain is on the bike: with a lock or not. As a rule, chains with locks are only on children's or cheap bikes. For a similar design, you just need to find the lock and remove it with a simple screwdriver.

Count the sprockets on the bike cassette. This is the whole chain you need. Otherwise, chains up to and including 8 tend to be interchangeable - in terms of speeds and brands. Gates does not recommend modifying frames as doing so will void the frame manufacturer's warranty and could result in injury or death. The belt cannot be broken and reconnected, so for a standard rear triangle you will need a way to get the belt through the frame. The belts also need to be adjusted for installation and tension.

Thus the reason for the purpose built frame. Cleanliness - No Lubrication means no greasy dirt buildup, cleaning hands, clothes and kids. Lightweight - the entire system, 2 sprockets and belt, weighs less than a conventional chain. This means you don't need to retension the belt or replace the belt due to stretch. Consistent Efficiency - The Carbon Drive belt provides consistent efficiency over the lifetime of the drive. On the contrary, chain efficiency decreases with wear and dirt.

Chain with pin.

The situation is more complicated if the bike has a chain without a lock, that is, with a pin. To work with it, you will definitely need a special tool - squeeze, which will allow you to quickly and easily remove the chain without damaging the links. The sequence for removing such a chain is as follows:

The belt also requires center distance adjustment for installation and correct tension. Methods include horizontally adjustable dropouts, eccentric bottom brackets, or eccentric hubs. Carbon driven sprockets are designed to fit many stems and hubs. Front sprockets include both 4-bolt and 5-bolt cranks.

For shared storage, Gates does not recommend winding. It is best to leave the belt in its original packaging until ready for use. However, if you want to carry around a spare strap, the proper winding is an option. Care must be taken not to damage the belt, please watch this video.

• It is necessary to select a chain segment for disassembly (experts advise choosing different segments for each new procedure with the same chain, since disassembly loosens them).
• Insert the chain into the release tool. This can be done as follows: either using the seat located at the fixing screw, in which the axle can be pressed in or out, or - in the second position, only the inner part of the sleeve is adjusted.
• Push the axle towards the reinforcing screw (the squeeze screw is turned with a handle).

IMPORTANT! During work, you should carefully monitor the absence of defects on the axis, because then it will be used in the assembly of the link.

The belt can interfere when pressed against the flanges on the chains. This may be due to sprocket misalignment, wheel misalignment, or drive overrun caused by damaged components. Spraying water on the belt can cause the drive to stop within minutes, but the permanent solution is to correct the alignment or replace damaged components. Another possible source of noise is a loose front sprocket. Using a thread lock on the sprocket bolts alleviates this problem.

In some cases, noise can occur when riding in muddy conditions, especially mountain biking, if sand and water temporarily stick to the belt. In most cases, simply rinsing the belt and pulleys after a ride will result in noise. If the noise persists, the solution is simple: spray the belt with water, wait for it to dry, and apply a thin coat of dry silicone spray on the tooth side of the belt.

Before installing the chain the exact length must be determined on the bike: if the length is insufficient, then the chain will not allow easy gear shifting, and if it is too long, it will hang out.

Chain installation on a bicycle - the procedure is simple and, with proper dexterity, is easy to perform, you just need to carefully perform the following steps:

Dry silicone dries instantly, helps drain grit, and doesn't affect belt durability. To fix this problem, use threadlocker on the sprocket bolts. Increasing the belt tension should fix this problem. Consult the bike manufacturer's recommendations or tension information. Usually jumping a tooth won't cause significant damage to the belt, however strong riders who jump off their teeth at very high loads may consider replacing the belt. Belt slippage at the proper tension can be a symptom of belt or sprocket wear and may be an indication that one or both need to be replaced.

• Install switches on small stars.
• We put the chain on the bike, taking into account the correct location of the tensioner rollers - the lower one bypasses on the left, and the upper one on the right.
• After the links are aligned and fixed with a screw, you can clamp the chain in the squeeze.
• Carefully press in the axle by slowly turning the squeeze handle: monitor the level of immersion relative to neighboring links.
• We check how the axis works - freely and without jamming, whether it protrudes.

Bicycle chain problems

One of the most common problems is chain slack. This process is due to the fact that the axles gradually wear out during movement, which leads to sagging of the chain. This process cannot actually be prevented, so it is simply necessary to remove extra links as it lengthens.

Chains are often replaced due to scratches and wear rather than actual failure. The drive belt does not stretch, so trouble-free operation remains the same throughout its entire service life. When the belt breaks away from the sprockets under tension, it is likely damaged and a replacement is recommended. If you're on the trail or away from home, resetting the belt can get you back under a light load. Be aware that if the tensile cords are damaged, the belt may not be able to handle the full load and will break if it is subjected to any significant load.

In order to shorten the chain you will need for the chain and pliers:

• We disconnect the chain, remove the squeeze.
• We determine the number of extra links (the best way is to pass the chain through large sprockets).
• We remove the extra links according to the principle of disconnecting the chain.
• We connect the chain and check its mobility.

Another difficulty is chain slip: Depending on the severity of this problem, the cyclist may experience either minor inconvenience while riding, or serious difficulties, leading to the likely loss of parts, injuries and accidents. Among the causes of chain slippage are the following:

• Caliper adjustment. In the middle positions, this can lead to the fact that the chain will jump over the sprockets, and in the extreme positions, it can jam between the frame and the sprocket. To avoid such difficulties, it is necessary to adjust the calipers in a timely manner: at the same time, do not forget about those gears that are not often used (for example, 1-1 or 3-9).
• Wear of the chain or its components. The critical mileage of a bicycle can be from 2 to 8 thousand km: when these indicators are reached, the chain starts to jump off at increased load, then more and more often. In this case, you can notice a certain looseness of the chain, as well as an uncharacteristic sharpness of the sprockets. This problem can be solved only by the complete or partial replacement of the damaged element.
• The presence of dirt in the chain or. Dirt particles, ice, grass or earth can cause chain malfunctions. Eliminating slips in this case is easy: just clean and lubricate the chain.
• Twisting or breaking the chain. Twisting is an easily solved problem that occurs when an unsuccessful plexus or removal of a jammed chain. To eliminate it, you need to find the damaged link, carefully bend the chain and straighten the defect. A break, of course, requires more serious efforts: replacing a damaged pair of links or the entire chain.

Chain damper

Chain damper.

When the bike is moving, which cause it to fall. Because of this, you can get hurt. Used to prevent. A range of accessories is called a chain guide. Usually, this is a design of two rollers and rocking. It is placed in place of the front derailleur on the frame, providing protection for the chainring and holding the chain from flying away. Many models are made at home.

The power part that protects the front chainring from impacts is a rockring. It partially performs the function of a calmer, is commercially available. Made in the form of a circle, the size is larger than a star. Rockring is fixed as standard, and can be operated in tandem with. The main element of "calming" is the roller supporting the chain.

Sedatives are:

• Rollerless. The chain is held by the frame. This is an easy option.
• With a pair of rollers - one on top, the other on the bottom.
• WITH wide rollers- for.

Types of mounting dampers:

• ISCG - fastening with screws on the frame in three places.
• ISCG 05 is the most advanced standard.
• BB - fastening to the carriage. She draws the pacifier to.

There is a sedative on the cassette. It is mounted at the back. It is rare on professional bikes, more often on ordinary ones. It is easy to make, but it is a hindrance to gear shifting, it consumes energy.

Device price depends on the manufacturer and the prestige of the company. It can be 1000 rubles, or maybe 5000 rubles. There are only four normal firms - Truvativ. This is a brand from SRAM, the firstborn of quality, a legitimate product. British Hope - uses the most advanced materials. Funn is a very expensive brand, its price is too high. The most popular brand is Shimano. Its products are designed for the Russian buyer.