The most frequent bites for catching perch took place on this particular tackle. The striped robber was attracted by the whole rig.

Through trials and tests, I have identified for myself the most catchy at this moment rig for perch in the autumn-spring period.

Basically, the perch bites on everything - that's why it is interesting for the fisherman. Such a responsive predator without any fancy tackle and without any experience can be caught all seasons.

Catchy budget tackle for catching perch in spring and autumn

But this tackle catches perch more successfully - it grabs the bait much faster and more willingly than others.

We will need:

• Main line,
• Leash, with a diameter less than the main one,
• A pair of hooks,
• Sinker pellet,
• Olive is a sliding sinker,
• A pair of foam balls,
• Swivel.

How to make a catchy tackle for perch with your own hands:

1. We hang an olive sinker on the main line. We tie the end of this fishing line to a swivel.
2. Next, we need a leash with a length of 0.8-1.2 meters. We attach it to a swivel on the main line.
3. Next, we hook onto the leash with a hook with a pair of foam balls. For the point of attack, I paint these balls red and black.
4. Then below this hook to the leash I squeeze the weight of the shot. From the edge of the leash, the distance is 20 centimeters.
5. At the very end of the leash, we hang another empty hook.

Fishing tactics with catchy tackle for perch

In addition, to attract the "sailors", I tied a red woolen thread to each hook.

I planted a worm or bloodworm on each hook (can be combined).

I cast the line and wait for all the tackle to sink to the bottom. Then a calm, not sharp jig.

The tackle is dragged along the bottom, while the hook with the foam balls will float up and will always be at some distance from the bottom.

Most often, the bite falls on the floating hook with balls. This bait seems to attract more perch.

Be sure to try to fish perch with such a catchy tackle.

Are you bored with a fishing rod by the lake? Doesn't it bite? Fixable!
Today we will make a tackle with our own hands that will not allow you to get bored on the reservoir.
Tackle you can take with you wherever you go. Fishing, hiking and even the Bolshoi Theater.
If you are not a fisherman at all and went on a weekend hike with your other half, you can always surprise and please her with a delicious fish soup from spontaneously caught fish in the very first forest pond. Unless, of course, your other half gets to read this publication first.

So! What do we need?

A piece of wire 20-30 cm. In my case, it is copper. In yours - any kind of soft wire.

Pliers. Everyone has them. If they are not, we take them from a neighbor.

Ball pen. In my case. In yours - door, woman, etc.

Carnation.

A piece of fishing line.

Two hooks.

Two foam balls.

That's all we need. Now calculate the costs taking into account the fact that the ballpoint pen, studs and pliers will not be damaged in the manufacture of the tackle.

There are dozens of names for this tackle, but in order not to get confused, let's call it non-indulgence .

1.

We take in our hands a piece of wire with a diameter of 1 mm and hand it over to a non-ferrous metal collection point, and with the money raised ...

No, wait! This is a slightly different story.
Using the pliers, twist a small eyelet at the end of the wire, wrapping it around the nail. We bite off the extra piece of wire and bend it so that the sharp tip does not stick out.

2.

We retreat from our eyelet about 30 mm by eye and twist another eyelet at the other end of the wire.


This time we do not cut anything, but we carry out the process of disassembling the ballpoint pen in order to separate the rod from its body.
Then we insert the free end of the wire into the body of the ballpoint pen and start twisting the turns.




When the required number of turns is ready, remove the wire from the body of the ballpoint pen and set it aside.


We wrap the free end of the wire around the already twisted ear and bite off the excess.
Did you get it ugly? Dont be upset! Beauty is not needed here and it will not affect catchability in any way. Moreover, the fish will not see it.
Now you can see the size of our tackle with your own eyes. It will even fit into a matchbox.

3.

Next we need two small fish hooks and a piece of fishing line. In my case, it is a thin braid.




We tie the hooks to the fishing line. Fishing line - to our wire ears. Take your time and tie the knots well. Be sure to wet each knot with water or saliva before tightening.
This is done so that the turns, when tightening, do not heat up and do not fray the line.

4.

Now we have two leashes 4 cm long, tied to both sides of our tackle. We attach our main fishing line to any of the ears.


While fishing, we put on a ball of polystyrene on each hook.

5.

Our tooling is complete.


Now we will immerse it in a container of water to make sure that our hooks float thanks to the foam balls.

How it works?

1. The tackle is stuffed with porridge or bread, crushed tightly and thrown into the reservoir. You do not need to insert hooks into the porridge.

2. The fish swims down to the groundbait and sees two mouth-watering (checked!) Styrofoam balls. And before taking on the side dish, he hurries to feast on our balls. This is where he gets hooked.

Advantages.

1. High fishing efficiency (tested in practice!).

2. Gathers on the knee in 10 minutes.

3. Does not require investment. Two hooks and a line are all a waste.

4. Lightweight and compact. Will not become a burden on any of the trips.

Do you want to catch the same ones?
Then go to a neighbor for pliers!

Important components of feeder rigs and their properties

Main line. In the installation of a feeder rod, a monofilament line is used. We recommend paying attention to the following brands Mikado Sensei Feeder, Trabucco T-Force feeder, Shimano Technium.

Monofilament diameter 0.2-0.24.

Price: 180 rub.

Price: 350 rub.
Shimano Technium.
Price: 1150 rub.

We do not recommend brands Salmo, Colmic, Gamakatsu, Owner, Suffix due to their lack of rigidity. In feeder fishing it is very important that the line does not stretch. This allows the tackle to remain sensitive to bites and to take even the smallest fish touches to the rod tip.

Attention! Why don't we use braided line?

The fact is that feeder fishing is associated with constant rubbing of the fishing line on the bottom of the reservoir. Braid is susceptible to rapid abrasion, while monofilament, on the contrary, practically does not deform when in contact with gravel, stones and snags.

However, a quality braided line is used in competitive fishing. If you like, we recommend Pontoon 21 Extreama 0.14-0.16 mm. Price: 1050 rub. for 100 m.

Fluorocarbon leashes. The hook fits to a fluorocarbon (fluorocarbon) line for two reasons:

1. This line is almost invisible in the water and does not frighten the fish.
2. Has increased rigidity, and this reduces the tangling of the equipment. The length of the leashes, depending on the rig, is 10-100 cm.For example, in the rigging Method - 10 cm, and in the Helicopter and two knots - 100 cm.

Top models: Pontoon 21 Grand Fluorocarbon and Owner Broad Game Pro 0.1-0.31 mm.

Pontoon 21 Grand Fluorocarbon.
Price: RUB 655 Owner Broad. Price: 330 rub.

On sale there are ready-made leashes Owner RL 340 (thin hooks for bream), RL 330 (yellow hooks for corn), RL 044 (dark hooks for a worm). The choice for those who do not want to knit a leash with a hook and make a loop for the snap on their own.

Leash thickness. For a hook leash, use 0.1-0.2 mm depending on the weight of the fish you are targeting. Up to 1 kg of loot 0.1 mm of fluorocarbon is enough for you. Feeder rigs Running Feeder Rig and some others use a line retraction made of hard hard fluorocarbon 0.3 mm.

Swivel with a carbine. It is important to choose a swivel commensurate with the feeder trough, especially when using non-branded models. We recommend using the Owner No. 14 swivel when using a feeder more than 60 g, and when fishing in standing water for a small feeder - no. 12.

Important! Use a swivel only in black or dark colors, but by no means golden. Vibrant rigs can scare fish away.

Crimp tube. Optional, but can be used for some rigs where heavy monofilament line is used. The crimp tube helps to secure the hook to the line without using knots at all. Nevertheless, we advise beginners to study the basic nodes and use them first.

Feeder. In total, 7 types of load-feeders are used in feeder gear, differing in their design. Key parameters to look out for:

• Feeder shape. Round and spiral are suitable for fishing in stagnant water and in the absence or very weak current. Square and flat troughs are ideal for fishing in the current, as their shape prevents the current from moving the trough.
• The weight. Feeders up to 30 g are ideal for fishing in stagnant water and at the same time, it is quite easy to throw such a load with a feeder rod at 50-80 m. Use heavier feeders for fishing in the current. Weight depends on the strength of the current and the depth of fishing. For example, in the Volga region on the Volga, 120 g square feeders are used.
• The presence of thorns. Again, when fishing in the current, use feeder feeders with spikes.
• The shape and location of the sinker. Important for self-sensing quality feeder equipment... The more massive the side of the sinker is close to the hook, the harder it will be for the fish to move it, therefore, the quality of spotting increases.
• Closed or open types.
  Closed The trough is designed for small and easily sprayed feed. The most popular are the spring and the bait animal feeder.
  Open- with a sharp pull, it is easily released from the bait by pouring it in the right place. Varieties: cylindrical, rectangular, "curlers", container, "Method" (Method), with spikes and a bullet feeder that flies well.

Limiting stopper. The element is essential to protect the assemblies from the heavy elements of our assemblies. Use a stopper made of hard rubber, slightly worse - soft plastic and much worse use beads as a stopper due to their hardness. Sooner or later, they will damage the node.

Anti-twist tube. It will come in handy in a rig with the same name (the second name is “rocker” or “anti-twist tube”). Serves to divert the line with a leader to the side, which reduces the amount of tangling of the rig. It is used in the current and extremely rarely in stagnant water due to the massiveness of the element.

Anti-twist tube and bead stopper

Hooks. Choose hooks that are sharp and sturdy and will not bend or break. Editor's Choice - Owner. The standard size for the feeder is # 6-8. But for catching medium and small fish, they are used up to No. 16 (roach, bream, silver bream), and when catching bleak on a floating rig - No. 20.

There are other elements, but they are used less often and we will talk about them later.

DIY feeder installations (photo + video instructions)

Most of the feeder rigs, which we will discuss below, cannot be bought assembled in the store, so you need to know how to knit them yourself.

All feeder assemblies can be made in no longer than 5 minutes. Be sure to watch the videos under each rig type.

• Alexey Fadeev, world champion in feeder fishing
• Vladimir Nikolaev, author of the popular Youtube channel about carp fishing and the secrets of carp fishing.

Paternoster

To link the paternoster feeder rig, we need:

• The main line (we will knit the feeder rig right on it).
• Swivel with clasp (carabiner).
• Load-feeder.
• Fluorocarbon line (1 m).
• Hook number 8 by international numbering.

This diagram of the feeder equipment and all subsequent ones shows the dimensions of the elements. Check out the specific firms of the woods at the beginning of the article.

Step-by-step instruction:

Watch a step-by-step video tutorial on knitting a paternoster for beginner anglers from Alexey Fadeev, world champion in feeder fishing.

Running Feeder Rig

The swivel ring is compressed with pliers to act as a stopper on the knot

Feeder rigging Raning feeder rig is a sports installation and differs from non-sports equipment in that if a fish breaks the tackle, the feeder will remain at the bottom, and the fish will remain only with a hook, which guarantees a minimum of damage and a greater chance of survival. The Running Feeder Rig fits on both monofilament and braided lines. But we recommend using the braid. Used by sports anglers in competition.

Helicopter and two knots

Feeder rigging helicopter and two knots are used for catching fish from the bottom and in the middle layers of the water. It shows itself especially well in the current when fishing for roach, bream and bream, silver bream in conditions of active biting.

Mount on the main line.

1. At the end of the line, measure 30 cm and fold in half
2. On the resulting folded section, measure 10 cm and tie the "Figure Eight" knot.
3. Measure a distance of 2 cm from the connected knot and make another figure eight knot. It will not be easy to connect because of the proximity of two nodes, but it is quite doable. We will get a loop and 2 knots.
4. Cut off the unnecessary extra segment with scissors.
5. We pass the feeder through the swivel into the loop. We fasten the swivel using the cape (stranglehold) method.
6. Measure 1 m on a fluorocarbon line, cut off.
7. Make a loop at one end of the fluorocarbon (preferably a figure-of-eight knot).
8. Now we need to connect the rig to the fluorocarbon leader. Insert the eyelet into the 2cm gap you formed from the two knots in step # 3. Then thread the free end of the fluorocarbon into the loop of the leash and tighten. Thus, using the noose methods, we fastened the harness and the leash.

The helicopter and two-knot feeder rig is very sensitive to bite since the bait is in almost straight tension with the main line going to the tip of your feeder rod.

Asymmetrical loop

Feeder rig "Asymmetric (asymmetric) loop" is knitted both on the main line and on a separate piece of line.

Can be knitted both while fishing and before fishing (do removable assembly). We need Owner fluorocarbon line. Line diameter - 0.28-0.31 mm.

Fluorocarbon has a high hardness, which is extremely important when making assemblies. All knots must be rigid. This will improve the sensitivity of the bites and their delivery. Also, fluorocarbon (in another way - fluorocarbon) is practically invisible in the water, which makes it possible to hide the rig from fish. And most importantly, fluorocarbon is not so badly injured on a rough bottom with shell rock, driftwood and other debris in the water, so it is ideal for installation.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Measure a distance of 30-40 cm from the end of the line
2. Form a loop (fold the line in half). Tie an Eight knot.
3. Next, form a curl. These are two intertwined lengths of line. It is most convenient to just take the loop in the teeth, very carefully, without injuring the fishing line, and start twisting the two ends of the fishing line clockwise or counterclockwise until you get a hard twist 15 cm long.
4. In the place where the weaving ends, pinch with your fingers and form another "Eight" knot. It is done like this: The upper segment is superimposed on the lower one. At the point of intersection, you pinch this place with your fingers and then unfold the resulting loop away from you and draw the resulting loop window into your twist. Hold the place of fixation with your fingers and tighten (be sure to moisten).
5. Second part of the rig: Hinge. The rig is called asymmetrical. One part of the buttonhole will be longer than the other. We take a swivel with a fastener, for example, Owner No. 12 due to the fact that it is versatile and very durable. Slip a piece of line into the swivel. Bring to the knot. Next, fold the two lines.
6. Now we need to create an asymmetry of the rig, make it so that one piece of line is longer. Namely, the one on which the swivel with a clasp is fixed. To do this, we fold the line in half and pull on the swivel, releasing the bottom of the line. You can make this distance 1 or 2 cm.
7. Measure from the knot a distance of 10 to 15 cm. In this place we fix the fishing line with your fingers.
8. Now fix the rig with the same “Eight” node.
9. Cut off the unnecessary piece of fluorocarbon closer to the knot.
10. The third piece of rig - the section will be fixed with the main line (if you are making the rig not on the main line. Fold the section in half, form a small loop and fix it with a knot "Eight". Cut the rest of the line to the very knot.
11. Tie a working fluorocarbon leash with a thickness of 0.24 cm to the twist loop using the Loop to Loop method.

Important!

When assembled, the twist should end 2 cm below the trough. This rule must be followed so that the rig does not get confused during casts and during reeling when you re-throw the feeder tackle. If the twisting ends at the level with the feeder, then there is a high probability of entanglement.

Observe correct asymmetry. Don't make the overhang too big (more than 2 cm). In this form, it will lose its basic concept. With a large overhang, the effect of hiding the bite occurs. If the fish is cautious, then it will try the snap and you will not see a bite. A neat crucian carp will eat the bait, and you will not recognize it. Do not hang more than 2 cm!

If using fluorocarbon twisting line, do not use thicker than 0.3 mm. Otherwise, it will look too rough in the water.

Three important qualities of the asymmetric hinge rig

An asymmetrical hinge is the only rig that is immune to negative factors:

• heavy rain shakes the rod tip, transfers vibration to the bait;
• strong wind;
• angler's mistakes, unnecessary touches to the rod blank.

When fishing with an asymmetrical loop, the bait and bait lie in place, regardless of external influences on the feeder tackle: rod tip, line. This is very important when catching trophy fish (crucian carp, bream, ide and carp, carp and cupid etc.).

Self-locking rig. It is unsportsmanlike, but thanks to the loop when taking the bait into its mouth, the fish does not feel the resistance of the feeder. The hook penetrates deep into the mouth and after a second or two the fish, moving from the place of fishing, is detected by the gravity of the feeder.

The asymmetrical loop rig can be used many times if it is not damaged during fishing. Before fishing, prepare 7-10 pieces so that when the tackle breaks, you can very quickly change the installation and continue fishing.

Symmetrical loop

We will need:

• Fluorocarbon Pontoon 21 Grand Fluorocarbon. Diameter: 0.28-0.31 mm.
• Swivels with clasps Owner No. 12-14.

We will make removable rigs so that you can make 5 or more pieces before fishing, and during fishing, change or replace one with another if necessary. It is convenient to store your rigs on a float reel or in another special container.

The symmetrical loop is similar to the Running Rig, but the difference is that the latter is a non-slip, slip-free rig that only forms when fishing on the main line. A symmetrical loop is a self-locking rig.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Unwind 30 cm of fluorocarbon line.
2. Fold in half and knit with a figure 8 knot.
3. Next, we form a twist with a length of 10 cm.
4. We fix it with the same knot.
5. On one of the free ends of the line we string a swivel and bring it to the knot.
6. We measure from the knot a distance of 15 cm and knit one more knot "Eight". The trough travel can be even more, up to 40 cm.
7. Cut off the extra piece of fishing line.
8. We attach the feeder load-feeder to the swivel.
9. From the free end of the line 20 cm from the knot, make another loop with a figure-eight knot. We need it to attach the main line using the loop-to-loop method.

Important! The length of the twist should be below the bottom of the trough to avoid tangling.

How does it work?

The feeder falls to the bottom. The fish finds the bait and begins to move to the side. It also makes a jerk due to the fact that there is a rigid fixation of the swivel and the feeder - the fish hooks itself under the weight of the feeder. Due to the symmetry, we have a very fast bite signal than in an asymmetrical loop rig.

This rig is used for catching small and medium fish (medium-sized crucian carp, roach, breeder) in the moments of active biting. It shows itself well on rivers, lakes and ponds, where the bottom is not flooded, and even better is a dense solid surface.

The main advantages of an asymmetrical hinge are:

• self-hooks the fish;
• sensitive to bite;
• it can be used many, many times.

Flat method

Flat method- carp feeder equipment, which is based on a feeder with a flat sinker. The uniqueness of the feeder is that it sinks with a sinker downwards, thanks to this, the bait, which is hidden in the upper part of the feeder, is always open and available for fish.

Ideal for fishing in muddy and dark peaty waters when fishing for crucian carp, carp and bream of completely different sizes, including trophy specimens up to 10 kg.

Varieties:

• Classic flat mounts on main line, lightweight and suitable for feeder fishing.
• Carp flat method. Elements of carp equipment are used (, leadcore, larger flat-method feeders).

How to make a classic flat method

Necessary:

• Flat-method feeder (mini-flat from 15 g, heavy up to 100 g). They come with a classic swivel.
• Mold is a special device for loading groundbait into a flat-method feeder. Usually comes with a feeder. But you can buy it separately.
• Monofilament line 0.25-0.30 mm. A very important advantage over braiding is that it stretches. This allows you to absorb the strong jerks of large fish.

Instructions:

1. The main line is threaded through the narrow part of the Method trough.
2. Next, we push the fishing line into the feeder. We get the Inline system when the line passes through the feeders. There are other types of systems as well.
3. Next, at the tip of the fishing line we knit a small loop with a figure eight knot, do not forget to moisturize. Cut off the excess fishing line.
4. We push the loop into the special connector of the feeder, it looks like a small hollow cylinder. It will block the swivel we are about to attach.
5. We attach the swivel to the loop with a stranglehold.
6. We put the connector on the swivel.
7. And now we thread this connector into the method feeder. The swivel is tightly fixed in the body of the feeder.
8. The cone that we put on the fishing line in the first step is put on the method feeder. The trough is now firmly attached to the rig.
9. The leash thickness is 0.16-0.20, do not be afraid to use such a thick line, because it will practically not be visible, the bait will be hidden inside the feeder. Hooks # 4 according to international numbering only when fishing with a large bait in the form of several corn grains. Use hook # 6 or # 8 more often. Leash length 15cm, no longer needed.
10. Leash attachment. Make a loop on the leash to secure it to the swivel using the loop-to-loop method. That's all. You can make such a rig in 3-5 minutes.

How to load groundbait into the Method feeder?

The bait should be of a special “method consistency”, more viscous.

1. We bait a grain of corn on the hook. It is necessary to thread through the corn from the narrow side, taking it to the side so that the sting of the hook sticks out from the side of the nozzle. Such fastening is much more reliable than fastening through the wide part of the corn (after all, it is less dense).
2. We put the bait (attachment) inside the mold. Usually it has a special indentation for it.
3. Next, pour some bait into it - a little with a slide, but not ramming.
4. We lower the feeder into the filled mold so that the line between the bait and the feeder does not get into the bait, but is simply outside it in a suspended state.
5. Press with both hands. Strong enough. It is important that the bait is very tightly attached to the frame of the feeder.
6. We take out the feeder from the mold.

How does it work?

Feeder equipment with a flat-method feeder does not lose feed after casting and contact with water. Having reached the bottom, it lands on a flat sinker, leaving feed with the bait at the top. The food gradually dissolves, and the fish senses it. After swimming, bream, carp or crucian carp begin to eat the bait, among which lies an appetizing corn grain with the taste of gum. The fish sucks in the bait, and when trying to leave the feeding place, it is detected under the weight of the feeder.

Popular attachments: Bloodworms, maggots, worms, canned corn, pellets, etc.

How to make a hair montage?

Hair cuts with a ringlet and cambric. Do not use long shank hooks. The implementation of bites will be lower.

Owner Eseama hooks 14-16 are very good when using a hair rig and 8-10 without it. These hooks have an inward curved sting, which increases the chance of a successful fish catch.

The size of the boilies is 10 mm.

Hair rigs are made for hunting trophy fish. Hair is a branch from a fishing line or leash material, on which the bait is attached, and the hook is located next to the hair and the bait, without direct contact.

The advantage of a hair rig is more confident bites. The fish, when sucking in the bait, does not feel the weight of the hook. The hook easily slides into the mouth of the fish and is sure to catch on the lip when striking.

Hair is effective when catching bottom fish- crucian carp, carp, carp, barbel and bream, but it is less often used when fishing with feeder rigs, the best option is a flat-method feeder.

We will need:

• Fluorocarbon line 0.2 mm
• Hooks No. 6-8
• Cambric
• Boilies needle

Instructions:

1. On fluorocarbon we knit a loop with a diameter of 3-5 mm with a figure-eight knot or a regular knot.
2. We measure the length of the leash at 50 cm, cut it off.
3. On the free end of the leash, string 2-3 pieces of a silicone tube (cambric) 5 mm long.
4. We take a hook with a slightly elongated sting and hold this sting inside the silicone tubes starting with the last one we put on the leash.
5. We put the free end of the fishing line on the outside of the hook. So that in the final version of the rig, the line comes out of the hook from the inside (from the side of the sting). This is important in order to increase the chance of getting the fish correctly spotted.
6. We make 6 turns around the forend of the hook and once again pass it through the ring in the same direction. The result is a nodeless connection.

Baiting a boilie for a hair montage

1. We pierce the boilie in the center with a special boilie needle.
2. There is a hook at the tip of the needle, hook on the tip of your hair rig and slide the needle back through the boilie.
3. Secure the boilie to the hair with a stopper. The color of the stopper should be close to the color of the boilie.

Feeder rig with anti-twist

Feeder rig with anti-twist is a classic and one of the first installations, which is used when fishing on muddy bottom and hard ground.

1. We thread the main line inside the anti-twist.
2. Next, thread a bead or rubber stopper. They will serve as protection for the swivel, which will anchor further away from the massive anti-twist. The rubber stopper cushions impacts better, so we recommend using this.
3. Tie a swivel to the end of the line with a clinch knot. Be sure to wet the knot to avoid burning the line.
4. We attach the feeder to the fastener (carabiner) of the anti-twist device.
5. Making a leash. We measure out 50 cm of fluorocarbon line. We form a loop at one of the ends and use the loop-to-loop method to attach it to the swivel of our rig with an anti-twist.
6. We attach a hook to the free end of the leash.

In the current edit, you can use rubber shock absorber, which will allow the fish to swallow the bait even deeper, and then when the rubber's tension limit is over, a notch will occur.

All structural elements of this rig are attached in exactly the same way as in the installation with the anti-twist device, except for the feeder. Make a 10 cm piece of line twisted from two lines between the anti-twist and the feeder. This will raise the tube and the rig with it a little higher above the bottom. It turns out a kind of symbiosis with the equipment "Helicopter and two nodes".

In this variation, use a longer lead and lighter attachments so that the bait will sink to the bottom for as long as possible when the feeder falls to the bottom. This will definitely provoke active fish to bite.

Floating feeder rig

The floating feeder mount is ideal for catching surface fish such as sabrefish, bleak and rudd.

The structurally floating feeder rig is a copy of the “symmetrical loop” installation, with the exception of 2 nuances:

• The feeder is used as a Floating Feeder, that is, floating. At its base there is not only a sinker, but also a cork material, which allows you to throw the rig far enough, and when touched with water, stay on the surface. Feeding occurs by spreading a cloud of turbidity in the water.
• The leash can be made a little less short.

The length of the symmetrical loop for a successful self-notching is 7 cm, no more.

Use smaller hooks that match the size of the fish's mouth. When hunting for rudd or sabrefish - No. 16 according to the Owner classification. For bleaching 18-22.

Making carp montages with your own hands

Superficially, we have already touched on the topic of carp. Now let's dwell on them in more detail.

Carp mounting “Safety clip”

Safety clip(safety clips) - an element that attaches the lead to the line, which facilitates easy release of the fish from the lead when the main line breaks.

This rig has advantages over other rigs when fishing in snag, as the weight is secured in a secure clip, which guarantees release under strong tension.

We will need:

• Leadcore (45 lb thick). This element has a braid and a lead core. Plays the role of weighting the rig at the bottom so that the line does not hang in the water column and does not frighten the fish. The second role of the leadcore is a safer material for fish when playing. The carp will not be scratched during sudden maneuvers because the material is soft and thick.
• Mounting needle for leadcore.
• Quick release with swivel.
• Safety clip (Safety Clips, with a lock for blind rigging or sliding) - plastic or metal. The disadvantage of a plastic one is that it breaks during power casts. There are also metal options on sale, try it.

Instructions:

1. We fix the leadcore in the needle. To do this, pull out a core about 3 cm long from it and bite off with tongs. Return the braid to its original position and bend the leadcore where it ran out of the core. In the place of the fold, pierce the leadcore with a needle for it and bring it out after 2 cm towards the tip.
2. We put on the swivel on the tip of the leadcore, and then we hook the needle with this very tip and begin to slowly rotate the tip of the leadcore inward to the left and right, forming a loop.
3. Cut off the extra piece of the tail, leaving a little more than 1 mm. We tighten it very much. The harder you pull, the more firmly the braids will be fixed to each other and will not unwind in any way.
4. We drip a drop of Moment Profi glue in the place where the leadcore shell went inside for an additional guarantee of strength.
5. The length of the lead core will be 60 cm. Do the same operation from steps 1 to 4 on the other side. And yes, having a lead core is very different. carp mounts from classic feeder rigs.
6. We insert the needle into the clip from the side where we will have the cone, fasten the leadcore into the needle and pull through the clip to the very end.
7. The clip is put on the swivel on the other side of the leadcore. It is important to fix the swivel in the clip using a small plastic quick release, this is part of the clip itself.
8. Step 7 is also done with the clip cone.
9. We put the sinker on the clip and fix it with a cone.

Inline carp rig

There are many types of Inline montage making on the Internet, and most of them structurally repeat the Running Feeder Rig rig. But historically Inline is carp rig, for carp fishing (expectant) fishing, not feeder fishing. In carp fishing, the feeder tip is not used as a bite alarm, but a bite is recognized by electronic signaling device... When the line is bled off the reel, the signaling device emits a sound. Naturally, this is a sliding rig, which means a sports one.

Inline is suitable for fishing on rocky hard bottom, on shell rock. Not suitable for fishing in snags, as the lead does not shoot back under strong tension. On a muddy bottom it is also bad.

Feeder mounting Inline is very good at self-chopping of carp and carp due to the drop-shaped lead. The part of the lead close to the leash has a thickening, which gives much more resistance to lifting from the bottom. Consequently, the undercut with a lead is sharper.

You will need:

• Inline loads
• Leadcore (with or without a core) length 60 cm
• The needle is thin for leadcore
• Large broaching needle
• Scissors and glue
• Swivel

Instructions:

1. We form a loop at one of the ends of the leadcore (we use the leadcore without a core). We drip with glue to fix the loop.
2. We fasten the swivel using the loop-to-loop method.
3. We insert the mounting needle into the Inline sinker from the side of the connector tube (narrow part), attach the free tip of the leadcore to the needle. We tighten the swivel inside the sinker by sipping on the free tip of the leadcore.
4. The leash is attached to the swivel using the loop-to-loop method or other reliable knot.

Improvement of rigs

Feeder Gum, Power Gum

Feedergam dampens the sharp jerks of the fish. This is a piece of rubber between the feeder rig and very thin fluorocarbon leads (eg 0.1 mm).

Feeder rubber is important for creating a shock-absorbing effect in the rig. this is especially important when using the main cord - braids. Length - 10-12 cm, thickness 0.6-0.8. Feeder Gum provides delicate fishing with very thin line (0.1 mm).

Mounting:

1. Stretch the feedergam. When tightening the knot, it will return to its original state and give the knot more strength.
2. Make a figure-eight knot on the feedergam on both sides of the elastic.
3. Feedergam will be an intermediate link between any of the rigs and a fluorocarbon leader. Everything is fastened using the “Loop to loop” method.

Important:

1. Don't make the feedergam long. Up to 15 cm is ideal. 30 cm - overkill. The longer the rubber, the more the rig gets tangled and the less the rig's sensitivity.
2. Do not use colored rubber bands. Take transparent ones. It doesn't scare the fish.
3. Do not glue the gum knots. It eats away at the feedergam.
4. Lighten your feeder rigs. Do not use swivels when attaching swivels. Loop-to-loop only. This will reduce weight, reduce the amount of debris that can be caught from the bottom by unnecessary elements in the installation.

Asymmetrical hinge + feedergam = the best combination.

Protection of the rig from snagging

In order to protect the rig from snagging on driftwood, falling through stones - reduce the thickness of the line on which the feeder weight is attached. If you are hooked, you will lose the feeder, but if there was a fish on the hook, you will fish it out.

Applicable in snap-ins:

• Paternoster and Gardner's loop.
• A helicopter and two knots, if you knit a large loop on a thinner line.

On Inline rigs, Method - use a secure clip. If it is hooked, it will unfasten.

Take action!

1. Equip your feeder rod with a rigid, inextensible monofilament line such as Mikado Sensei Feeder 0.24 mm 150 m... This will increase the number of bites.
2. Decide on the fishing conditions. Let's say we we want to catch bream on the Volga... This river usually has current and solid bottom, so we will use a feeder rig Helicopter and two knots... Collect it directly on the main line according to our instructions from this article. It will take no more than 10 minutes.
3. Since fishing takes place on a current, at great depths and at a distance of at least 50 m from the shore, you should choose a feeder trough weighing from 80 to 120 g... Choose a shape square type with spikes so that the trough does not slip along the bottom.
4. Tie to feeder rig fluorocarbon leash 0.3 mm thick and 1 m long... At the end - hook number 8 by international numbering. The mouth of the bream is not very large, so small hooks should be used.
5. Use as bait a bunch of maggots... Bream is very fond of bundles of 5 or more pieces.
6. There must be sweet ingredients in the bait (vanillin, the taste of gum, cake).
7. After catching fish, not necessarily bream, please share your experience here in the comments below the article. Thanks for reading!

Feeder troughs

For a beginner, it is not clear why there are so many different feeders and what is better to buy for their needs.

Experienced amateurs have a lot of them in stock. Depending on the fishing conditions, one or another feeder can be used in the rig. As a rule, it connects to the feeder rig through a swivel with a carabiner, and can be changed quickly.
The main parameters of the feeders: weight and volume. But besides them, there are several more important characteristics that you need to know about.

The main rule when mastering the feeder: do not buy too much, so that later it does not lie idle.

There is no need to repeat the experience of those anglers who bought different gear just in case, but many of them were never used. With each fishing trip, with experience, it will become clear which gear is running, and what you can do without.

What is the weight of the river feeder and lake feeder?

On the current, the feeder should lie well on the bottom, and not jump on it. Its slight displacement (1-2m) is allowed after casting, before it rests against the unevenness of the bottom. This is achieved by correctly selecting the weight of the feeder and using the main line with the minimum allowable diameter.

For the river (current) use feeders weighing 60 - 80g (weak current), 80-100-120g (strong), more than 120g (very strong current) are rarely used.

The most common weight of feeders: 70, 80 and 100 g - it is with them that you most often have to fish on rivers. Such a load is suitable for medium to moderately strong currents.

If you are going to fish with a feeder on the river, then in your arsenal must necessarily be feeders weighing 60-100g. The current can be different, even in the same area. It can change depending on the season, rainfall, open closed sluices, etc.

At the same time, do not forget that to this weight you need to add 20-50gr (depending on the volume of the feeder) the weight of the bait. And at the same time, see if the feeder test is suitable for this total mass. Most rods can handle without any problems casting a load greater than their nominal test of 20-30g or more. But this should not be practiced often, especially since working with an unacceptable test changes the action of the rod.

For stagnant water, the weight of the feeders is from 30g. Adding to this weight 20-30g for groundbait, we get total mass which is comfortable to throw.

What is the best shape of the feeder trough?

Square and round - the main shape of the section of the feeders. Triangle types have not been used for a long time.

A few years ago, it was believed that square feeders held better on the current. But time and practice have shown that there is no big difference between them and round ones.

For rivers and lakes, round and square are used, depending on the desire.
Round, tapered, winged shapes float faster when pulled out. It is easier and faster to pull them up. In this case, the load on the coil is less.

Feeder volume

Understanding the importance of volume comes over time. The larger the volume of the trough, the more groundbait can be placed in it.

You may need more or less groundbait:

• At the beginning of fishing, it is customary to quickly deliver a large amount of food to the fishing point. And then in small batches of bait "support" the point.
• In cold water (less than 15 degrees), you need less feed, and more in warm water.
• Carp, bream, crucian carp - they love to eat and require more food. Bleak, roach - less.
• On the stream, on the river, you can feed a lot, without fear of overfeeding the fish. On a pond with stagnant water, you need less bait.

Therefore, in addition to weight and shape, it is better to have several different volumes in the assortment.

Missiles and bullets

Two names for the same feeder designs. The rocket (bullet) feeders have an offset sinker at the end. This design allows them to fly better, one and a half times farther than round and square ones.

Missiles must be in stock. It happens that you need to fish at extremely long distances.

Often the fish is standing far from the shore. Throwing the feeder to the maximum distance is not easy. But if you put a rocket, then it is easier to make such throws and they turn out to be more accurate. Moreover, such a design sails less downwind.

Closed or open?

Again, a few years ago there were many feeders on the market with a lid on one end. Donochniki fishermen, saving bait, considered such a cover necessary. But for the feeder it is better to use open forms. Let the bait wash out freely, feed the fishing point. This is the essence of feeder fishing.

Do you need lugs?

Such processes on the sinker are intended for better retention at the bottom. In practice, this is not noticeable. If there are lugs, they will not interfere, if not, then you should not be upset, an ordinary smooth sinker is no worse.

Flat feeders

A special type of construction with a flat sinker and ribs for attaching bait. They are used for fishing with a flat feeder. This is a slightly different type of fishing for stagnant waters. It differs from the classics in the technique and tactics of feeding groundbait with a nozzle.

Video about the variety of feeder feeders

How and where to throw the feeder?

So, after studying a lot of recommendations, knitting and dressing loops for rigging, imposing leashes, purchasing tackle…. - finally, the feeder is assembled and you can start fishing. But how to find a fishing spot? This will be discussed below.

How to cast a feeder?

For those who are not familiar with casting technique with a non-inertia reel, I give a short educational program.

... We take the feeder with two hands. Right-handed: left at the beginning of the rod, right at the level of the reel.
... Right index finger fix the braid pressing it against the rod (see photo).

... Left hand open the arch line.
... We take the rod back by the right shoulder, the feeder should hang down to 50 cm.
... At the same time, the left arm straightens.
... Smoothly accelerate, straightening right hand and bending the left. When the feeder reaches the "2 o'clock" position, increase the acceleration so that in the vertical position of the feeder the acceleration is maximum.
... Letting go of the index finger from the cord. The feeder flies.
... If the cord is fixed in a clip (also when using a bank rubber band), then until the moment of fixation, we line up the feeder in a vertical position. So that at the moment of fixation, the flexibility of the feeder absorbs the load on the cord.

Where to throw the feeder?

It is clear that for successful fishing, fish must be caught where it is. And for this you need to know the potential locations of its location. These are, first of all, areas of the bottom with a difference in depth: the edge of the river, rifts, underwater boulders, pits. The angler's task is to “probe” the bottom and find promising places for fishing. Moreover, you can successfully do this without an echo sounder, standing on the shore at one point. Let's see how to do it.
Probably, many people know the "jig" wiring, in which the reeling alternates with the free fall of the load. We will use it to study the bottom.

We take the feeder and attach a weight to the end of the cord for the feeder. A lead drop weight is better suited for this purpose. We select a small weight, so that the load is not carried away by the current. We select the study area, remember the direction of the cast (for example, by the landmark on the opposite bank) and throw in the weight.

As soon as we feel the impact of the sinker on the bottom, we begin to "walk" along the bottom: we make three turns of the handle of the coil - a pause, we count the time to ourselves until the load falls to the bottom, the next three turns - again a pause, again we count a blow, the next three turns - a pause , counting, hitting, three turns, etc. The time the weight falls between our reeling and touching the bottom gives us information about the bottom topography. If this time increases, then there is an increase in depth, if it decreases, then the depth becomes shallower.

So, exploring different directions, you can find a suitable fishing site... But that's not all, you need to fix the casting distance at this place.

For example, by jigging, we noticed bottom relief... We draw out the weight, while counting the revolutions of the coil. We got, for example, 25 revolutions. We throw again the load in the same direction. Jig winding again. We again found the place of the drop. We extract the tackle. Again 25 turns. This means that we were not mistaken and a real bottom drop is already looming. In the same way, we will try several times to "touch" the bottom to the left and right of the investigated place, etc.

This is how we begin to present a picture of what is happening at the bottom. For example, it becomes clear pit is it or brow.

After we have found a suitable place at the bottom and are planning to feed him, we throw the weight again, further than the investigated place. We find this difference again, stop the reel, take a bank rubber band and fix the braid on the spool. To do this, we make three, four turns around the spool with an elastic band and fix it in a clip.

Never fix a braid in a clip! With an excessively strong cast, it may simply not withstand the load. And the elastic band absorbs the cord tension well.
We take out the weight, at the same time, the same turns of the coil handle should be obtained (in our example, 25), and we hook the rig.

Now we know the direction (landmark on the shore) and we have a fixed casting distance. You can throw a feeder not only to the same place, but also to a potentially catchy place!

Believe me, it's better to spend even an hour exploring the bottom, and catch potentially fish spot than to throw at random and think: "Am I catching there?"

Do the first few casts without a hook, just with a feeder filled with crumbly mixture. For example, 4-7 casts, every 20 seconds. Of course, such frequent casts can scare the fish away, especially since the fish have good hearing. But if fishing is from 20 meters from the shore, and even at a good depth, then the fish feel quite confident there. And the pleasant smell of our bait will make even shy fish come up. After these casts, hook the baited hook and cast at your usual pace (on average every 8-15 minutes). So it is possible to quickly create a "cloud" of bait at the bottom, and attract fish.

When fixing the bank gum in the clip, it is impossible for the excess braid to come off. This can play poorly when catching a large specimen, when the work of the clutch is simply necessary. In this case, you will need to hook the rubber band and tear it. Then it will be possible to work with the clutch as usual.

For those who like to watch and listen more than to read, I suggest watching a small film about the basics of feeder fishing:

Choosing and winding the cord for the feeder

In this article we will not touch upon the rhetorical question “what to choose a cord or a fishing line? ", And go straight to the purchase and winding of the cord for the fidear. If you are using fishing line, the winding will be the same.

So what is the cord for the feeder?

On the market and in stores there is a large selection of cords (braids) of various sections and colors. But let's think about what kind of fish the feeder is counting on. Of course, each of us wants to catch our giant, and of course we will achieve this, but when fishing on a feeder, the main part of the catch is bream, undergrowth, small carp, roach, silver bream, rudd, crucian carp, blue bream, which rarely come across weighing more than one, two, three kilograms. Larger carp are mainly found at fish farms, but for them the fishing method is different. And for our trophies, a sufficient diameter of the cord will be 0.08 - 0.14mm.

The smaller diameter of the line allows you to cast further, the side wind has a weak effect on it and the tackle is less blown away by the current. But it is easily cut by shells, which are so richly dotted with eyebrows and rifts, where exactly the fish loves to feed. So a diameter of 0.12 - 0.14 would be optimal.

As for the color, this is a matter of taste, someone prefers a cord that is disguised as possible under the water surface, someone chooses a brighter one in order to see it well when reeling.

There are many manufacturers of cords, it is thankless to recommend a certain brand. In our market, often the same cord, depending on the batch, can be completely different in quality. So it is better to buy in trusted stores and the product of well-known brands.

So the cord is purchased, now we will wind it on the selected reel. The cord must be wound almost to the edge, stepping back only 1.5-2 mm.

If you wind the cord up to the very side of the spool, then when casting, the loops will be dropped, and, accordingly, the thread will become entangled.

The purchased cord can be 100 meters or 150 meters, and for example 200 meters fits on the spool. How to calculate the required 1-2 mm to the edge of the boot? For this we need a spare spool that came with the reel. Having a similar capacity, it will help us finish off the required amount of inexpensive fishing line (for example, 0.2 in diameter) or nylon thread.

Many anglers, instead of sharpening with a fishing line, wind several layers of electrical tape on the spool, thereby increasing its diameter. But this should not be done because in the heat, the melted glue from the insulation will fall on the braid, and this will lead to its complete replacement.

So, we install a spare plastic spool on the reel and attach it to the lower knee of the rod. We pass the cord through a single ring and tie it to the spool. It is better to lower the reel with the cord in water, since the soft cord will fit more tightly and will give the necessary winding accuracy. With one hand, we rotate the reel, winding the line, and with the other we press the line against the rod, creating the necessary tension and winding density. After the thread is wound, if the distance to the edges of the spool is greater than necessary, then we sharpen the line. You can take any, she will not participate in the fishing process.

The line and the cord must be spliced ​​together. For this, the following node may be suitable:

After that, we wind up the line, remembering to create tension when winding. A distance of about 1.5-2 mm should remain to the edge of the side.

We remove this spool and lower it into the water, put a metal one, attach a fishing line behind it and rewind the finished fishing line and cord in the reverse order. Do not forget to create tension when winding! Alternatively, you can pass a cord or line between the pages of the book, while pinching it with your knees.

Hooks and Leashes for Feeder Fishing

For fishing with a feeder, hooks No. 10 - No. 18 are mainly used. the international system numbering. Larger and smaller hooks rarely need to be used.

Choosing the size and shape of the hook depends on fishing conditions, type and size of fish, type and size of bait.

The more passive the bite, the more picky the fish, and we need to make our rig even more invisible. And you have to put a thinner leash and a smaller hook. But with a decrease in the hook, the likelihood of fish coming off also increases.

Moreover, the larger the fish, the less picky about the size of the hook.

The hook should be perfectly sharp. A good hook can easily pierce the maggot or scratch the nail. If there is a suspicion of a loss of sharpness, it is better to replace the hook, since a blunt sting is an empty bite.

Hooks must be made of high quality, properly hardened wire. Wire thickness varies. On thin hooks, the worm, maggot, bloodworms remain alive for a long time, attracting fish. But a thin wire easily cuts the lip of a fish, which leads to collapses. This is especially noticeable with long casts. Therefore, choose a medium hook thickness, and preferably thicker.

Popular hooks from manufacturers such as Gamakatsu, Owner, Kamasan, Trabucco, Hayabusa.

There are also fakes on the market. famous brands, so buy crochet hooks from reputable retailers.

Feeder Leashes

Breaks and losses of hooks and feeders for the feeder, when fishing on the feeder, is the most common thing. So you will need to knit a lot of different leashes.
For leashes, a high-quality mono line with a diameter of 0.12 to 0.18 is usually used.

Diameter is selected depending on the size of the fish you are targeting. If it is a roach, silver bream, ram, then a diameter of 0.12-0.14 is quite enough. It is quite difficult to find quality fishing line with a smaller diameter. If the object of fishing is undergrowth, bream, large crucian carp, then the diameter of 0.16-0.18 is optimal. On sale there are special leash lines of different companies with a winding of 20 - 25 meters. They tend to best quality than a similar line in large windings.

Choose soft line, no memory, good breaking strength at the smallest diameter.

Many anglers prefer fluorocarbon fishing line as a lead.

Its main advantage over conventional fishing line is invisibility under water and resistance to abrasion, which is important when fishing on the edge covered with shells. Well, the disadvantage is rigidity, relatively small breaking load and a higher price.

Average leash length for feeder fishing from 30 to 60 centimeters. Moreover, there is such a rule - the weaker the bite, the thinner and longer the leash is placed .

So its length can reach one meter.

Before going fishing, it is advisable to tie in advance several types of leashes(a better a couple tens) with different lengths, diameter and different hooks. This will save precious time on fishing and will enable you to quickly adapt to the fishing conditions. It is convenient to store the leashes in a special leash.

see also detailed video about choosing a leash line:

Feeder equipment

So, after choosing a reel for a feeder, let's move on to the "heart" of feeder fishing - to the rig.

You have probably heard the terms: asymmetrical loop, asymmetric loop, paternoster. These are the names of the various feeder rigs. So what should we choose from this?

The requirements will be simple:

• the minimum possibility of the leash getting tangled around the rig and the line when casting or playing fish.
• no bulky elements and ease of manufacture;
• sensitivity when biting;

Installation using anti-twist tubes

Well, experienced feeders do not like these tubes and that's it. This opinion may be formed after reading articles on this topic. And it certainly has its own rationale. But for beginner anglers who may find other rigs too complicated, we recommend using anti-twist tubes as an easy and quick way to get started with feeder fishing.

Some models even provide for the installation of two hooks. This is understandable. A fisherman who has been fishing for a long time bottom gear, knows very well what bitelessness is, and the more hooks with bait, the more likely it is to catch at least something. But the feeder rigs were just invented to increase this bite significantly! Fishermen often come up to me, even fish inspectors, and are surprised: why do you have one hook? But believe me, with the right feeding and choosing the bite point, you will not be bored, the bites will go one by one, literally in a few seconds after casting. Usually, the catch rate is reached 3-4 hours after feeding. So why two hooks? Or even three? They will only interfere with each other and get confused. And if the bite is weak or absent, then it is better not to add hooks, but to look for new places for fishing, experiment with bait, bait and you will definitely find your fish.

The main advantage of the anti-twist device is its ease of installation, which is really important for a novice angler. Pass a cord through it, install the locking beads on both sides, attach a swivel with a carabiner on one side, and just a loop for attaching the hook on the other. That's all. When biting, the cord slides freely through the anti-twist, signaling a bite.

Tooling video with anti-twist tube:

But all the same, experienced feederists do not like these "rocker arms". And there is a reason. The sensitivity of the tackle when using these tubes is minimal; on a muddy bottom, dirt gets into the anti-twist, which leads to it clogging and getting stuck in the cord. Flight performance decreases when casting a feeder. It was repeatedly noticed that with a careful bite, the fish took the bait with the anti-twist device much more reluctantly than when using other rigs.

Simple and sensitive rig - paternoster

Perhaps the most popular rig. We have already devoted a whole detailed one, where we carefully examined its advantages and disadvantages. For a while, I was skeptical of it precisely because of its simplicity. But after much experimentation, I came to the conclusion that, although it is slightly inferior in sensitivity to an asymmetric loop, but due to the minimum production time, it deserves a place in a number of favorite editing methods.

I often use two feeders, one with an asymmetric loop, and the other with a paternoster. The difference in sensitivity is almost negligible. Yes, asymmetry responds better to even the slightest movement of the feeder, or to a fish sipping a worm, but is this sensitivity always necessary? In any case, the choice is yours, but knowing what a paternoster is and how to knit it will not be superfluous. It fits in a couple of minutes and is quite capable of replacing a torn loop.

We knit a paternoster

Let's consider two main types of paternoster.

1. Paternoster Gartner (on two loops)

We knit a paternoster directly on the main braid. Moreover, you can do this at home. Since there are no auxiliary parts on it, it will easily go through even the smallest ring at the tip of the feeder.

At the end of the main braid we make a loop for attaching a leash with a hook to it. At the same time, we make three or four turns, moisten and tighten the knot well.

We retreat from the connected loop a distance of 15 centimeters. And we knit in a similar way a larger loop, 5-8 centimeters long. It should be such that the feeder will crawl through it.

When fishing, we pass the resulting paternoster through the feeder rings. Pass the large loop through the swivel ring on the feeder. We pull out this ring and pass the feeder through it. When tightening the loop, try to keep the tightening not at one point, but spread over the swivel (see photo). This makes it easy to change the feeder without breaking the loop. Or we use a latch, with which it will also not be difficult to change the feeder.

Loop to loop, attach the hook leash to the small loop.

And the paternoster is ready. See also video

2. Paternoster (blind rigging).

We measure a loop of about 10 centimeters, make a knot in three or four turns, moisten and tighten well. Cut in the middle. At one end we make a small loop for the hook, and the other we tie to the feeder.

After fishing, it should be cut off and tied new.

Asymmetrical (asymmetrical) loop

This is probably the most popular feeder attachment. Its main advantage is sensitivity. And the disadvantage is the tendency to entanglement when casting, especially with a leash length of more than 40 centimeters.

If, with an active bite, I once again throw this tackle, and there is no bite, then again an overlap. I pull it out - for sure!

For this rig, it is important to choose a hard line with a diameter of 0.3-0.45. An asymmetrical buttonhole consists of two parts: a twist with a hook loop and the asymmetrical buttonhole itself.

1. We take two meters of fishing line and fold it in half. We measure out 1.5-2 centimeters, and make a loop for the hook.
2. A method of twisting that everyone will succeed in: we fasten the loop to some object, and twist the fishing line 10-15 cm long tightly. We tighten the double knot at the end. You should get such a layering.
3. On the remaining line we measure an asymmetrical loop with sides of 60-70 cm by 40-50 cm. We pass a carabiner through the larger side to attach the feeder. And tighten the double knot.

In this rig, the feeder slides freely along the loop, which gives the maximum sensitivity of the tackle. When casting, the twist moves the hook to the side, preventing it from overwhelming the loop.

Watch the video of the asymmetric loop

After fishing, it should be cut off and a new one tied.

AND This is exactly how it is, not everything is so simple when choosing a feeder feeder, as it seems at first glance, especially for novice fishermen. And first of all, oddly enough, it is necessary to understand why it is needed on the feeder tackle. The answer is that for bait, and as a result, attracting fish, will be correct, but incomplete. Those fishermen who use, for example, a picker or a match, which are a kind of feeder, do without feeders, feeding the place either with their hand or with a slingshot. And they don't complain about the result.

NS Therefore, first we will focus on important notes or even rules when fishing with a feeder, which are not only desirable, but necessary to know in order to use feeder equipment and tackle most effectively. So:

• N and the vast majority of our rivers with any, strong or weak surface current, current at the bottom of a reservoir or absent, or very minimal. It follows that it is not the bottom current that pulls the feeder, but or, which is located in the upper layers of the reservoir. And if there is a bottom current, then on such, for example, a gravel bottom, our bait will not linger, which means that the feeder will be completely ineffective. Yes, and there are not many fish on such a bottom, because there is no food for it.
• H In order for the feeder to confidently hold on to the bottom of the reservoir, it is necessary to increase not only its weight, as it seems at first glance, but also to select the thinnest but strongest cord that will have less resistance in the water. And of course it must be borne in mind that the wider the bottom of the trough, the more stable it is at the bottom. Various devices that increase the hook of the feeder to the bottom of the reservoir are also quite justified.
• V An important, even probably basic, requirement for a feeder for a feeder is the maximum capacity with minimum dimensions. And it is also desirable, although not always necessary, that the feeder has good aerodynamic properties for the implementation of long cast... Its purpose is to bring the bait to the fishing site and unload this bait. The faster the feeder unloads the bait, the faster the bait will start working.
• NS When choosing a bait for a feeder trough, it must be borne in mind that light fractions give turbidity and attract fish to the place of fishing. But large fractions of bait remain at the bottom and serve as food for fish, i.e. keep fish at the place of fishing.
• D To fish with a feeder, you need to have a wide range of feeders for different fishing conditions and different bodies of water with a fast or slow current. Feeders are a consumable material, you can “lose” several feeders during one fishing trip, especially at the initial stage of mastering the feeder tackle.

M The variety of types, shapes and weights of the offered feeders can confuse even an experienced fisherman. And it is easy to verify this by going to any fishing store. But after all right choice feeders for feeder fishing largely determines the success of feeder fishing. It is almost impossible to consider the pros and cons of all modifications of feeder feeders, but it is quite possible to systematize them according to certain characteristics.

NS First of all, when choosing a feeder, you need to pay attention to 3 main characteristics:

• Design- open, semi-closed or closed feeder.
• Cross section- round, square or triangular.
• The weight- determines the load, both on the feeder itself in the reservoir, and on the feeder rod when casting it.

1. CONSTRUCTION

TOopen-type feedershave the largest bait capacity in comparison with closed feeders with the same dimensions. Groundbait from open feeders is washed out faster, which means that they will cover the "table" for fish faster. It is this task that faces the feeder, and the open-type feeder most fully copes with this task. The more capacious the feeder with the minimum size, the better, especially at the initial stage of bait fishing.

O Open feeders, as a rule, have a streamlined shape in the form of a drop, a spring, or any section considered below, but open from 2 ends. Such feeders have minimal resistance when pulling the tackle and are most suitable not only at the stage of mastering the feeder, but also when the feeder tackle is fully mastered.

TO Let us briefly dwell on the "spiral" feeders, which we also referred to as open feeders. Such feeders are most often of the sliding type, i.e. the fishing line or braid goes through the hole through it and moves from the leash to the stopper. The advantage of such feeders is their simplicity and high casting distance. These feeders are most suitable for fishing in stagnant water. Of the disadvantages when using such feeders, it is necessary to note some loss of sensitivity of the tackle.

• TOsemi-closed feeders on the one hand, they have a plug that slows down the process of washing out the bait. This design is most in demand when there is insufficient stickiness of the bait, for example, when a bloodworm or maggot is added to it. Often, such feeders are used in reservoirs with an average current or with rare casts. Such a feeder, unlike an open one, does not cover the “table”, but only attracts the fish to it. Which is more in line with the ideology of a regular donkey, but not a feeder. The plug in such feeders already gives additional resistance when pulling out the rig and significantly loads the tackle. And this must be taken into account when choosing a test rod and spinning reel.

• Zcovered feeders, as can be seen from the name, they are closed from 2 ends, and, first of all, they pursue the goal of increasing the time the bait is washed out of it. More often, such feeders are used in reservoirs with a strong current, unless, of course, such feeders are not cylindrical in shape. As well as semi-closed feeders, they serve to attract fish, but not to set a “table” for fish. It is clear that under such feeders it is necessary to prepare groundbait from small fractions. Large particles of groundbait will remain in such a feeder.

AND Of course, quite specific feeders for maggots or worms as bait can be attributed to such closed feeders, where there are not so many holes and they are larger. It is clear that they also cannot attract fish and serve to keep it in place. Most often, such feeders are plastic and lightweight. Most suitable for muddy bottoms, because they are less likely to sink into it.

2. SECTION

• Ccylindrical feeders have good flight characteristics due to their streamlined aerodynamic shape. After all, it is the cylinder of the simplest geometric shapes that has the best aerodynamics. These feeders are most suitable for stagnant or slow-flowing bodies of water. This form is unstable at the bottom of the reservoir, and at strong current the cylindrical feeder will be demolished. But, we note that even if it is carried away on the current, then it can be used as a bait, which is successfully used in feeder fishing. Let us repeat that an open round-section feeder is most suitable for feeder fishing, and most fully solves the main task of a feeder feeder for delivering bait to the place of fishing and its quick unloading.
• Trectangular shape more suitable for bodies of water with a fast flow. No wonder they say that "the faster the current, the more triangular the feeder should be." Such feeders, even without additional hooks, adhere perfectly to the casting point, although they do not have outstanding flight characteristics. Of the shortcomings, one can also note the small capacity of such feeders. TO such feeders, which hold perfectly at the bottom even with strong currents, include feederssemicircular, in the form of a sphere, section. We will not consider them separately and we will not be very mistaken if we put them in this category.
• TOsquare shape also good for fast flow, and, in contrast to the triangular-shaped feeder, allows you to accommodate more groundbait. The feeder holds well on the casting point, but when casting, it also flies not as far as a round feeder, although farther than a triangular feeder. It is the most versatile form and is widely used by fishermen. And it flies well, and is confidently holding on to the bottom of the reservoir. This is the second form of the feeder after the circular section, which must be selected for the feeder. And of course, pay special attention to the absence of any end caps. Think carefully about their need for a specific reservoir where you are going to fish.

3. WEIGHT OF FEEDER

O This is a very important parameter considering that fishing with feeder gear involves frequent casts. Put on a light feeder, it will be carried away by the current or will twist, increase the weight - unnecessarily load the feeder tackle, both the rod itself and the spinning reel. And it can be very problematic to choose such an optimal weight for the feeder. As a rule, the weight of the feeder is up to 60 grams, it is quite enough in reservoirs with stagnant water or weak currents. But if the current is strong, then the weight of the feeder can reach 120 grams, even without taking into account the weight of the bait.

NS with this great weight of the used feeder, pay attention to the test of the rod and the quality of the rings, and keep in mind that the load on the spinning feeder will be very significant. Most often, the weight of the feeder is indicated on a weighting agent made of either a lead plate or any other weighting element.

O Separately, it is necessary to dwell on plastic feeders. Their main advantage is that they are lighter than metal ones, and are more suitable, for example, for fishing on a muddy bottom - they do not fall into it. Quite often, quick-detachable weights can be installed in such feeders - a quick and easy option for adapting to certain fishing conditions. Less often, but still such light feeders are used for fishing in the water column.

4. VOLUME OF FEEDER

TO Of course, in terms of volume, or more precisely, in terms of filling, feeders can be completely different. But in order to somehow estimate how much the feeder can still bring the bait to the fishing site, which means, albeit approximately, to estimate how much bait to prepare for fishing, we will give a few numbers. This is the size scale of a popular open cylindrical trough from a reputable manufacturer:

• Diameter: 35 mm, length: 47 mm, weight: 10 grams, filling capacity approx. 40-50 grams.
• Diameter: 41 mm, length: 47 mm, weight: 10 grams, filling capacity approx. 60-70 grams.
• Diameter: 45 mm, length: 66 mm, weight: 10 grams, filling capacity approx. 90-100 grams.

NS These numbers clearly show, not only how much bait to prepare for fishing, but also show that a heavy feeder is not needed so often. And it will be more effective if the feeder is more voluminous with a low dead weight. AND total weight the bait feeders will meet the test of a spinning rod, and the fish table will be set faster.

5. CONCLUSION

V All varieties of feeders for feeder fishing are almost impossible to consider in detail, but the main types that are considered in this article will at least allow you to navigate in their diversity. And knowledge of their functionality and purpose, will allow you to choose the most optimal feeder feeder for fishing in a particular reservoir. But let us emphasize again that on conditions fishing, a lot depends, including the choice of a feeder feeder.

Happy fishing!