The presence of a feeder in the rig actually gave the name to the English bottom fishing rod, since the word “feeder” is translated as “feeder”! Therefore, it is not surprising that the effectiveness of fishing depends on the functionality of this most important component of the feeder equipment. What are the results! An improperly selected feeder can jeopardize the very ability to fish. So let's find out how to choose a feeder feeder?

Lyrical introduction

At the beginning of the development of the feeder, the author of these lines had the imprudence to trust one of the "experts" of the Kiev bazaar "Bukhara", where you can still buy anything you like. fishing... So, the seller "vparil" a picker rod with all the rigging and a spring feeder, assuring that this is the best option for the Dnieper. The next day, the "spring" with bait flew into the water and immediately, being carried away by the Dnieper stream, gathered the tackle of the fishermen standing downstream ... It turned out that the 30-gram feeder was completely unsuitable for the current. Therefore, the first lesson that your humble servant learned from all this: the weight of the feeder must correspond to the fishing conditions. On the river, 60 g may be enough, and sometimes it takes 150 grams. In calm water, 20 - 40 g is usually enough. It is also important that you first need to choose a rod for specific conditions, and then buy a feeder for the feeder.

Choosing a feeder for ponds without flow

There are many forms and varieties of designs that affect the efficiency of feeding groundbait, casting distance and ease of use in certain conditions. So, for calm water, the following types of feeders are best:

"Springs" or "Spirals"- affordable and effective solutions for fishing in ponds, bays, lakes with pickers and light rods. The design is based on a spiral "body" with a central rod-tube and a sinker attached to the back. The advantages of "springs" are the simplicity of equipment, aerodynamics of the form, which allows you to cast far, in the quick return of feed and the sensitivity of the rig. Since the feeder is sliding, bite information is instantly transmitted to the quivertip.

"Kegs" from a metal mesh- classic options for effective catching in bodies of water without flow. Moreover, depending on the conditions, they can be either open (without plugs) or half-open (removable plug on one side). They are distinguished by excellent aerodynamic properties, are very convenient in terms of filling with food, hold crumbly baits well, delivering them to the point of fishing. In addition, they can be used in classic feeder installations, attached to an anti-twist tube, etc.

Round plastic models have all the functional features of metal mesh feeders. In addition to everything, they are usually equipped with small longitudinal planes, therefore, during exhausting, they quickly break away from the bottom and soar into the floor of the water, bypassing bottom obstacles in the form of vegetation, shells, stones and just various rubbish. They can be equipped with a removable plug for a longer washout of the feed.

Method feeders- these are "nipples" and "spoons", improved, again by English sports anglers, only the bait is held not by the wire, but by the longitudinal or transverse planes. Method feeders are divided into two types: flat (flat load and transverse ribs) and triangular (longitudinal ribs). They are fed with pressed groundbait to an already fed point and look like a large lump of food that the fish begins to dig and suck in until it hits a hook with an even more attractive bait.

All of the above feeders are ineffective in rivers, since the round shape will not allow you to resist the current and stay in a lured place. The method models are swept away by the current even more, eroding the exposed food before they reach the bottom.

Theoretical digression

The weight of each feeder is indicated on its sinker, but how do you know how much it weighs with the bait. The most obvious, simple and accurate way would be to weigh it on an electronic canter. If there are no weights, you can use the formulas to determine the volume:

For rectangular - L x W x H;
For triangular - L x W x H / 2;
For round - 3.14 x D / 2 x D / 2.

If this result is multiplied by a factor of 1.2, we get the approximate weight of the groundbait. Adding it with the weight of the load, we determine the weight of the bait and feeder fits into the test range of the feeder rod.

Feeder troughs for river fishing

The current requires from the feeder not only a heavy sinker, which it would not carry, but also a certain design and shape. Unlike models with a circular cross-section, triangular, square and rectangular feeders hold the stream perfectly. Thanks to the fine mesh baskets, the feed is gradually washed out, keeping the fish close to the rig for as long as possible.

In principle, the feeders of these forms also work in reservoirs where there is no current. But then it is necessary to select models with a large cell, so that the food dissolves more easily and better attracts fish.

For fishing in high water conditions, troughs with lugs are best suited. Sinkers of such models have large spikes at the bottom, with which they "cling" to the bottom and hold in one place.

Special purpose feeders

In addition to the classic and methodical models, there are feeders designed for specific purposes. Depending on their weight, they can be used both on current and in calm water.

"Bullets" for ultra-long casts- made of metal mesh or plastic. The main difference is the location of the load not along the entire length along one of the sides, but at the end of the basket. This design allows for long and ultra-long casts even against the wind.

Feeding models- designed for feeding the fishing point and differ in increased feed capacity, equipped with small loads or not at all loaded. Their task is to deliver as much bait as possible to a given sector in order to attract fish as soon as possible. After creating the bait table, you can cast the standard feeder.

Animal Feeders Components- designed for throwing worms, maggots, bloodworms. These are closed-type models with small holes so that the larvae or worms can gradually leave the feeder. One end is plugged, and the other is equipped with a cover for loading live bait. Of course, you can deliver animal components to the point of catching along with bait in classic feeders, but in this case, the larvae and worms will very quickly find themselves in the water and they will either be carried away by the current, or will be eaten by a trifle. But special feeders are made in such a way that the animal components leave the feeder for a long time.

Feeder overview

The classic version of the "spring". The model is distinguished by the absence of loading and the presence of a central tube for mounting sliding equipment. Perfect for fishing in shallow waters without a current, as well as a feeding trough, since the model is able to instantly throw off the bait. Simplicity of design and high quality production guarantees the durability and efficiency of using this model.

This model is perfect for calm waters and slow flowing rivers. The advantages lie in the presence of planes that, with the first revolutions of the coil, raise the feeder into the middle and upper layers of the water. Therefore, the model is indispensable where there are many shells, debris stones and other obstacles at the bottom, over which this model easily passes during the unwinding of the tackle.

The versatile model is perfect for both calm water (light weights) and flow ( large weights). A feature of this model is a metal mesh with a large mesh for effective washing out of the bait and its rectangular cross-section, which prevents rolling on the current. The plug ensures that the feed is kept on the stream. If necessary, it can be removed to increase the intensity of feeding.

An excellent option for fishing carp with a feeder. The model has excellent flight characteristics and is intended for long-distance casts. During unwinding, it quickly breaks off the bottom and, due to its petal shape, soars above it. Therefore, it is perfect for fishing in waters with a tight, rocky or overgrown bottom. Due to the high transverse ribs, the bait is well kept in the trough.

In conclusion

By and large, if the weight of the feeder with bait falls into the test range of the rod, then it can be safely cast without fear of breaking the blank. Another question is whether you can fish effectively. First you need to decide on the weight. You will need a feeder for at least 60 g. If we are talking about a strong stream, then you will have to stock up on feeders 90 g, 100 g, 120 g and more. In ponds, bays and lakes, a feeder weighing up to 40 g is sufficient. In calm waters, the shape of the feeder is not decisive. But in the river it is better to fish on a model with a rectangular or triangular cross-section. Of course, if you fish both in the current and in calm water, you need to have several pieces of feeders of different designs in order to always be ready for fishing. Long-range models will not be superfluous, and feeding options will certainly come in handy in order to quickly "set the table" and start fishing. And remember, the feeder is a consumable item, so at least a few should be in your fishing bag on every fishing trip.

For fishing on the stream - and has its own nuances. Mastering it is not difficult, but you need to remember some points.

The main thing - the choice of distance and point for fishing, as this is a decisive factor in fishing on rivers with a fast current.

What is required to select the right fishing point for a feeder on a river? There are a number of tests that need to be done.

We will talk about them below. For tests, you can operate a marker rod or a classic feeder. It is important that there is a good braid. It will accurately convey all the irregularities of the bottom.

Determine the fishing distance

Bottom irregularities are determined and localized by repeated casts.

The bottom relief is transferred to the rod, "tapping", as when fishing with a "jig". When casting the bait far enough - about 70 meters - the bottom of the river should be fairly flat and clayey. If, when pulling the lead towards him, the fisherman feels vibrations, a kind of "blows" on the rod, it means that there are stones or other obstacles on the way.

After the optimal place for fishing with a feeder on the stream is localized, the number of turns of the rod reel is counted in order to determine the casting distance.

Knowing the number of revolutions of the reel, if the tackle breaks, it will be easy to throw the feeder to the exact fishing distance. Fishing in the river should be at the border of stones and a flat place - where there is clay. If the marker weight does not stick to the bottom, then it is clay soil.

The depth of the fishing spot is another important parameter. Since it is difficult to determine the depth when pulling the sinker, then when casting at a distance, you can roughly calculate the depth by the number of revolutions of the rod reel until the moment it touches the bottom of the river.

Fishing technique

Feeder fishing on a river requires accurate casting and slow pulling.

Lure

For the delivery of bait, special ones are used for the flow. For bait, the simplest goods from the nearest supermarket or market are used.

It is mixed in a large bowl. It is harvested at one time 3-5 kg.

Components

Rigging for the flow

A feeder on a river with a current can be equipped in different ways. For strong fish, use a line with a thickness of at least 0.14 mm. The optimal and versatile is the use of hook number 14, which in sports topics considered large but reliable.

Feeder rods for strong currents are equipped with numerous options for sinkers, feeders, line reels.

An asymmetrical loop is considered a universal installation of feeder rigs for flow.

The flat feeder with a flat feeder is becoming very popular in Russian reservoirs. This fishing method is applicable on bodies of water with a muddy or overgrown bottom. allows the feeder to fall clearly with the sinker down, and the feed is located upside down. The fish finds food and a bait, swallows it, displaces it and is undercut by the weight of the feeder.

Feeder rig with anti-twist

This feeder rig is used when fishing with a feeder in the river on peaceful fish such as:

crucian carp;
bream;
roach;
Amur;
carp;
carp.

Symmetrical and asymmetrical flow loops

Such assemblies are used when the bait needs to be pressed as much as possible to the bottom and at the same time get a self-setting. Symmetrical and asymmetrical loops are knitted only on monofilament. There were many attempts to tie the montages on the braided line - nothing happened, they get confused.

You can fish with the main line and with the main mono line. It is allowed to knit the installation on the main line, or knit in advance and somehow fix it to the braided line. There are two ways to knit montages.

A symmetrical hinge often saves on muddy sludge.When knitting a symmetrical buttonhole, twist can be used. But twisting is often not used. A triple straight knot is used for knitting. This is how the lead under the leash is formed. A loop is knitted at the tip of the bend so that it is all straight and not puffed up, a leash is formed under the leash. A swivel is threaded, the line is folded in half and a knot is knitted - a triple straight.

All knots must be wetted to prevent the line from burning through. The protruding ends of the line must be cut flush to prevent tangling of the rig. It remains to fix the feeder and go. This rig is similar in its properties to a sliding sports rig without a retraction, with the only difference that a loop serves to limit the movement of the feeder.

An asymmetric loop for mounting feeder equipment for fishing on the current is made right at the fishing site. A small loop is knitted where the swivel with a leash will be attached. Then twisting is done, so, let's say "anti-twist", about 20 turns of "pigtail", so that the leash does not get confused by the feeder and everything above. The loop is made with a length of 15 centimeters, or maybe 12, then the loop is knitted, the "pigtail" is fixed.

You will need a bead as a buffer so as not to break the loop, and a swivel to which the feeder will be attached. The main line is shifted by 1 centimeter, so that there is free movement of the feeder, and a loop is made. The loop should be more voluminous so as not to get tangled. At this, the installation is ready, it remains to put the feeder.

This is the perfect fit for the flow. In both cases of symmetrical and asymmetrical installation, a swivel with a special attachment should be used for easy replacement of the feeder.

Rigging with anti-twist tubes for flow

First of all, you will need the anti-twist itself. They are different - longer and shorter. The main line is taken and threaded into the tube. At the opposite end of the tube, the line may rest against the rubber plug. It must be removed. After that, the plug is pushed through the hole on the line and returned back to the tube.
The next step is to put a bead or stopper on the fishing line, after which a swivel is tied, preferably with a special hook for prompt replacement of the leashes. The swivel is tied behind the ear with a Clinch knot. The bead is necessary to prevent interruption of the swivel assembly when the device is loaded with a feeder.
After that, a leash with a length of 15-20 cm is attached to the swivel, less thick than the main line. This is necessary if, when fishing with a feeder in the current, the hook will catch on an insurmountable obstacle. In this case, the leash will break, and the main line will remain unharmed.

Other

Another type of installation when fishing with a feeder in the current is a paternoster. Its advantage is simple installation and low probability of line tangling of the leash.

Paternoster is knitted with a fishing line from 0.2 to 0.35 mm. Many people practice paternoster knitting on the main line. If the main line is braided, then the paternoster is made from a separate mono line. When making this installation, a swivel is put on the fishing line, 25-30 cm of fishing line is measured, and a paternoster loop is knitted on this segment.

The loop under the feeder can have a branch up to 15 cm, but it is usually made 5-10 cm long. On the formed branch - the antennae - a separate loop is knitted under the leash. After that, the paternoster is ready to work. It is enough to attach a feeder to the swivel carabiner, and attach a leash on the other side.

Rescue on the current

Feeder fishing in strong currents requires a more powerful rod, heavier feeder and special fishing techniques on the river. The main way to play trophy bream, for example, is to pump it out.

This is especially true when using braided line as the main one. It is unacceptable to try to pull out a resisting large fish with the help of the reel. The bream released at a distance to the surface is able to easily break off the hook. Having taken a gulp of air, such a fish begins to beat intensely in a panic, and interfere with the calm stretching to the shore.

To prevent this, the fish is loosened and the fish is gently pulled by the rod with the reel spool held by the finger. At the end of the pull-up with the rod, the line is selected by the reel, with a gradual lowering of the rod to the water. This is repeated for several cycles - until the extraction of prey from the water.

Feeder troughs

For a beginner, it is not clear why there are so many different feeders and what is better to buy for their needs.

Experienced amateurs have a lot of them in stock. Depending on the fishing conditions, one or another feeder can be used in the rig. As a rule, it connects to the feeder rig through a swivel with a carabiner, and can be changed quickly.
The main parameters of the feeders are weight and volume. But besides them, there are several more important characteristics that you need to know about.

The main rule when mastering the feeder: do not buy too much, so that later it does not lie idle.

There is no need to repeat the experience of those anglers who bought different tackle just in case, but many of them have not been used. With each fishing trip, with experience, it will become clear which gear is running, and what you can do without.

What is the weight of the river feeder and the lake feeder?

On the course, the feeder should lie well on the bottom, and not jump over it. Its slight displacement (1-2m) is allowed after casting, before it rests against the unevenness of the bottom. This is achieved by correctly selecting the weight of the feeder and using the main line with the minimum allowable diameter.

For the river (current) use feeders weighing 60 - 80g (weak current), 80-100-120g (strong), more than 120g (very strong current) are rarely used.

The most common weight of feeders: 70, 80 and 100g - it is with them that you most often have to fish on rivers. Such a load is suitable for medium to moderately strong currents.

If you are going to fish with a feeder on the river, then in your arsenal must necessarily be feeders weighing 60-100g. The current can be different, even in the same area. It can change depending on the season, rainfall, open closed locks, etc.

At the same time, do not forget that to this weight you need to add 20-50gr (depending on the volume of the feeder) the weight of the bait. And at the same time, see if the feeder test is suitable for this total mass. Most rods handle without any problems casting a load greater than their nominal test for 20-30gr or more. But this should not be practiced often, especially since working with an unacceptable test changes the action of the rod.

For standing water will do the weight of the feeders is from 30gr. Adding to this weight 20-30g for groundbait, we get total mass which is comfortable to throw.

What is the best shape of the feeder trough?

Square and round - the main shape of the section of the feeders. Triangular types have not been used for a long time.

A few years ago, it was believed that square feeders held better on the current. But time and practice have shown that there is no big difference between them and round ones.

For rivers and lakes, round and square are used, depending on desire.
Round, tapered, winged shapes float faster when pulled out. It is easier and faster to pull them up. In this case, the load on the coil is less.

Feeder volume

Understanding the importance of volume comes over time. The larger the volume of the trough, the more groundbait can be placed in it.

You may need more or less bait:

At the beginning of fishing, it is customary to quickly deliver a large amount of food to the fishing point. And then in small batches of bait "support" the point.
V cold water(less than 15 degrees) food is needed less, and more in a warm one.
Carp, bream, crucian carp - they love to eat and require more food. Bleak, roach - less.
On the stream, on the river, you can feed a lot, without fear of overfeeding the fish. On a pond with stagnant water you need less groundbait.

Therefore, in addition to weight and shape, it is better to have several different volumes in the assortment.

Missiles and bullets

Two names for the same feeder designs. The rocket (bullet) feeders have an offset sinker at the end. This design allows them to fly better, one and a half times farther than round and square ones.

Missiles must be in stock. It happens that you need to fish at extremely long distances.

Often the fish is standing far from the shore. Throwing the feeder to the maximum distance is not easy. But if you put a rocket, then it is easier to make such throws and they turn out to be more accurate. Moreover, such a design sails less downwind.

Closed or open?

Again, a few years ago there were many feeders on the market with a lid on one end. Donochniki fishermen, saving bait, considered such a cover necessary. But for the feeder it is better to use open forms. Let the bait wash out freely, feed the fishing point. This is the essence of feeder fishing.

Do you need lugs?

Such outgrowths on the sinker are intended for better retention at the bottom. In practice, this is not noticeable. If there are lugs, they will not interfere, if not, then you should not get upset, an ordinary smooth sinker is no worse.

Flat feeders

A special type of construction with a flat sinker and ribs for attaching bait. They are used for fishing on a flat feeder. This is a slightly different kind of fishing for stagnant waters. It differs from the classics in the technique and tactics of feeding groundbait with a nozzle.

Video about the variety of feeder feeders

How and where to throw the feeder?

So, after studying a lot of recommendations, knitting and dressing loops for rigging, imposing leashes, purchasing tackle…. - finally, the feeder is assembled and you can start fishing. But how do you find a fishing spot? This will be discussed below.

How to cast a feeder?

For those who are not familiar with casting technique with a non-inertia reel, I give a short educational program.

... We take the feeder with two hands. Right-handed: left at the beginning of the rod, right at the level of the reel.
... Right index finger fix the braid pressing it against the rod (see photo).

... Left hand open the arch of the line.
... We take the rod back by the right shoulder, the feeder should hang down to 50 cm.
... At the same time, the left arm straightens.
... Smoothly accelerate, straightening right hand and bending the left. When the feeder reaches the "2 o'clock" position, increase the acceleration so that in the vertical position of the feeder the acceleration is maximum.
... Letting go of the index finger from the cord. The feeder flies.
... If the cord is fixed in a clip (also when using a bank rubber band), then until it is fixed, we line up the feeder in a vertical position. So that at the moment of fixation, the flexibility of the feeder absorbs the load on the cord.

Where to throw the feeder?

It is clear that for successful fishing fish should be caught where it is. And for this you need to know the potential locations of its location. These are, first of all, areas of the bottom with a difference in depth: the edge of the river, rifts, underwater boulders, pits. The angler's task is to “probe” the bottom and find promising places for fishing. Moreover, you can successfully do this without an echo sounder, standing on the shore at one point. Let's see how to do it.
Probably, many people know the "jig" wiring, in which the reeling alternates with the free fall of the load. We will use it to study the bottom.

We take the feeder and attach a weight to the end of the cord for the feeder. A lead drop weight is better suited for this purpose. We select a small weight, so that the load is not carried away by the current. We select the study area, remember the direction of the cast (for example, by the landmark on the opposite bank) and throw in the weight.

As soon as we felt the impact of the sinker on the bottom, we begin to "step" along the bottom: we make three turns of the handle of the reel - a pause, we count the time to ourselves until the load falls to the bottom, the next three turns - again a pause, again we count a blow, the next three turns - a pause , counting, hitting, three turns, etc. The time the weight falls between our reeling and touching the bottom gives us information about the bottom topography. If this time increases, then there is an increase in depth, if it decreases, then the depth becomes shallower.

So, exploring different directions, you can find a suitable fishing site... But that's not all, you need to fix the casting distance at this place.

For example, by jigging, we noticed bottom relief... We draw out the weight, while counting the revolutions of the coil. We got, for example, 25 revolutions. We throw again the load in the same direction. Jig rewinding again. We again found the place of the drop. We take out the tackle. Again 25 turns. This means that we were not mistaken and a real bottom drop is already looming. In the same way, we will try several times to "touch" the bottom to the left and right of the investigated place, etc.

This is how we begin to present a picture of what is happening at the bottom. For example, it becomes clear pit is it or brow.

After we have found a suitable place at the bottom and are planning to feed him, we throw the weight again, further than the investigated place. We find this difference again, stop the reel, take a bank rubber band and fix the braid on the spool. To do this, we make three, four turns around the spool with an elastic band and fix it in a clip.

Never fix a braid in a clip! With an excessively strong cast, it may simply not withstand the load. And the elastic band absorbs the cord tension well.
We take out the weight, in this case, the same turns of the coil handle should turn out (in our example, 25), and we hook the rig.

Now we know the direction (landmark on the shore) and we have a fixed casting distance. You can throw a feeder not only to the same place, but also to a potentially catchy place!

Believe me, it is better to spend even an hour exploring the bottom, and fishing in a potentially fishy place, than throwing at random and thinking: "Am I fishing there?"

Do the first few casts without a hook, just with a feeder filled with crumbly mixture. For example, 4-7 casts every 20 seconds. Of course, such frequent casting can scare the fish, especially since the fish have good hearing. But if fishing is from 20 meters from the shore, and even at a good depth, then the fish feel quite confident there. And the pleasant smell of our bait will make even shy fish come up. After these casts, hook the baited hook and cast at your usual pace (on average every 8-15 minutes). So it is possible to quickly create a "cloud" of bait at the bottom, and attract fish.

When fixing the bank gum in the clip, it is impossible for the excess braid to come off. This can play badly when catching a large specimen, when the work of the clutch is simply necessary. In this case, you will need to hook the rubber band and tear it. Then it will be possible to work with the clutch as usual.

For those who like to watch and listen more than to read, I suggest looking at a small film about the basics of feeder fishing:

Choosing and winding the cord for the feeder

In this article we will not touch upon the rhetorical question “what to choose a cord or a fishing line? ”, And go straight to the purchase and winding of the cord for the fidear. If you are using a line, the winding will be the same.

So what is the cord for the feeder?

On the market and in stores there is a large selection of cords (braids) of various sections and colors. But let's think about what kind of fish the feeder is counting on. Of course, each of us wants to catch our giant, and of course we will achieve this, but when fishing with a feeder, the main part of the catch is bream, undergrowth, small carp, roach, silver bream, rudd, crucian carp, blue bream, which rarely come across weighing more than one, two, three kilograms. Larger carp are mainly found at fish-breeding rates, but for them the fishing method is different. And for our trophies, a sufficient diameter of the cord will be 0.08 - 0.14mm.

The smaller diameter of the line allows you to cast further, the side wind has a weak effect on it and the tackle is less blown away by the current. But it is easily cut by shells, which are so richly dotted with eyebrows and rifts, where exactly the fish loves to feed. So a diameter of 0.12 - 0.14 would be optimal.

As for the color, it is a matter of taste, someone prefers a cord that is disguised as possible under the water surface, someone chooses a brighter one in order to see it well when reeling.

There are many manufacturers of cords, it is thankless to recommend a certain brand. In our market, often the same cord, depending on the batch, can be completely different in quality. So it is better to buy in trusted stores and the product of well-known brands.

So the cord is purchased, now we will wind it on the selected reel. The cord must be wound almost to the edge, stepping back only 1.5-2 mm.

If you wind the cord up to the very side of the spool, then when casting, the loops will be dropped, and, accordingly, the thread will become entangled.

The purchased cord can be 100 meters or 150 meters, and for example 200 meters fits on the spool. How do you calculate the required 1-2 mm to the edge of the boot? For this we need a spare spool that came with the reel. Having a similar capacity, it will help us to finish the required amount of inexpensive fishing line (for example, 0.2 in diameter) or nylon thread.

Many anglers, instead of sharpening with a fishing line, wind several layers of electrical tape on the spool, thereby increasing its diameter. But this should not be done because in the heat, the melted glue from the insulation will fall on the braid, and this will lead to its complete replacement.

So, we install a spare plastic spool on the reel and attach it to the lower knee of the rod. We pass the cord through a single ring and tie it to the spool. It is better to lower the reel with the cord in water, since the soft cord will fit more tightly and will give the necessary winding accuracy. With one hand, we rotate the reel, winding the cord, and with the other we press the cord against the rod, creating the necessary tension and winding density. After the thread is wound, if the distance to the edges of the spool is more than necessary, then we sharpen the line. You can take any, she will not participate in the fishing process.

The line and the cord must be spliced together. For this, the following node may be suitable:

After that, we wind up the line, remembering to create tension when winding. A distance of about 1.5-2 mm should remain to the edge of the side.

We remove this spool and lower it into the water, put a metal spool, attach the line behind it and rewind the finished line and cord into reverse order... Do not forget to create tension when winding! Alternatively, you can pass a cord or line between the pages of the book, while pinching it with your knees.

Hooks and leashes for feeder fishing

For feeder fishing, hooks No. 10 - No. 18 are mainly used according to the international numbering system. Larger and smaller hooks rarely need to be used.

Choosing the size and shape of the hook depends on fishing conditions, type and size of fish, type and size of bait.

The more passive the bite, the more picky the fish, and we need to make our rig even more invisible. And you have to put a thinner leash and a smaller hook. But with a decrease in the hook, the possibility of fish coming off also increases.

Moreover, the larger the fish, the less picky about the size of the hook.

The hook should be perfectly sharp. A good hook can easily pierce maggot or scratch a nail. If there is a suspicion of a loss of sharpness, it is better to replace the hook, since a blunt sting is an empty bite.

Hooks must be made of high quality, properly hardened wire. Wire thickness varies. On thin hooks, the worm, maggot, bloodworms remain alive for a long time, attracting fish. But a thin wire easily cuts a fish's lip, which leads to collapses. This is especially noticeable when long casts... Therefore, choose a medium hook thickness, and preferably thicker.

Popular hooks from manufacturers such as Gamakatsu, Owner, Kamasan, Trabucco, Hayabusa.

There are also fakes of well-known brands on the market, so buy hooks from good stores that value their reputation.

Feeder Leashes

Breaks and losses of hooks and feeders for the feeder, when fishing on the feeder, is the most common thing. So you will need to knit a lot of different leashes.
For leashes, a high-quality mono line with a diameter of 0.12 to 0.18 is usually used.

Diameter is selected depending on the size of the fish you are targeting. If it is a roach, silver bream, ram, then a diameter of 0.12-0.14 is quite enough. It is quite difficult to find quality fishing line with a smaller diameter. If the object of fishing is undergrowth, bream, large crucian carp, then the diameter of 0.16-0.18 is optimal. There are specials on sale leash lines of different companies with a winding of 20 - 25 meters. They tend to best quality than a similar line in large windings.

Choose soft line, no memory, good breaking strength at the smallest diameter.

Many anglers prefer fluorocarbon fishing line as a lead.

Its main advantage over conventional fishing line is invisibility under water and resistance to abrasion, which is important when fishing on the edge covered with shells. Well, the disadvantage is rigidity, a relatively low breaking load and a higher price.

Average leash length for feeder fishing from 30 to 60 centimeters. Moreover, there is such a rule - the weaker the bite, the thinner and longer the leash is placed .

So its length can reach one meter.

Before going fishing, it is advisable to tie in advance several types of leashes(a better a couple tens) with different lengths, diameters and different hooks. This will save precious time on fishing and will enable you to quickly adapt to the fishing conditions. It is convenient to store the leashes in a special leash.

See also a detailed video on choosing a leash line:

Feeder equipment

So, after choosing a reel for a feeder, let's move on to the "heart" of feeder fishing - to the rig.

You have probably heard the terms: asymmetrical loop, asymmetric loop, paternoster. These are the names of the various feeder rigs. So what should we choose from this?

The requirements will be simple:

the minimum possibility of the leash getting tangled around the rig and the line when casting or playing fish.
no bulky elements and ease of manufacture;
sensitivity when biting;

Installation using anti-twist tubes

Well, experienced feeders do not like these tubes and that's it. This opinion may be formed after reading the articles on this topic. And it certainly has its own rationale. But for beginner anglers who may find other rigs too complicated, we recommend using anti-twist tubes as an easy and quick way to get started with feeder fishing.

Some models even provide for the installation of two hooks. This is understandable. A fisherman who has been fishing with a bottom tackle for a long time knows very well what bite-free is, and the more hooks with bait, the more likely it is to catch at least something. But the feeder rigs were just invented to increase this bite significantly! Fishermen often approach me, even fish inspectors, and are surprised: why do you have one hook? But believe me, with the right feeding and choosing the bite point, you will not be bored, the bites will go one by one, literally in a few seconds after casting. Usually, the catch rate is reached 3-4 hours after feeding. So why two hooks? Or even three? They will only interfere with each other and get confused. And if the bite is weak or absent, then it is better not to add hooks, but to look for new places for fishing, experiment with bait, bait and you will definitely find your fish.

The main advantage of the anti-twist device is its ease of installation, which is really important for a novice angler. Pass a cord through it, install the locking beads on both sides, attach a swivel with a carabiner on one side, and just a loop for attaching the hook on the other. That's all. When biting, the cord slides freely through the anti-twist, signaling a bite.

Tooling video with anti-twist tube:

But all the same, experienced feederists do not like these "rocker arms". And there is a reason. The sensitivity of the tackle when using these tubes is minimal; on a muddy bottom, dirt gets into the anti-twist, which leads to it clogging and getting stuck in the cord. Flight performance decreases when casting a feeder. It was repeatedly noticed that with a careful bite, the fish took the bait with the anti-twist device much more reluctantly than when using other rigs.

Simple and sensitive rig - paternoster

Perhaps the most popular rig. We have already devoted a whole detailed one, where we carefully examined its advantages and disadvantages. For a while, I was skeptical of it precisely because of its simplicity. But after long experimentation, I came to the conclusion that although it is slightly inferior in sensitivity to an asymmetric loop, but due to the minimum production time, it deserves a place in a number of favorite editing methods.

Often I fish with two feeders, one with an asymmetric loop, and the other with a paternoster. The difference in sensitivity is almost negligible. Yes, asymmetry responds better even to the slightest movement of the feeder, or to a fish sipping a worm, but is this sensitivity always necessary? In any case, the choice is yours, but knowing what a paternoster is and how to knit it will not be superfluous. It fits in a couple of minutes and is quite capable of replacing a torn loop.

We knit a paternoster

Let's consider two main types of paternoster.

1. Paternoster Gartner (on two loops)

We knit a paternoster directly on the main braid. Moreover, you can do this at home. Since there are no auxiliary parts on it, it will easily go through even the smallest ring at the tip of the feeder.

At the end of the main braid we make a loop for attaching a leash with a hook to it. At the same time, we make three or four turns, moisten and tighten the knot well.

We retreat from the connected loop a distance of 15 centimeters. And we knit in a similar way a larger loop, 5-8 centimeters long. It should be such that the feeder will crawl through it.

When fishing, we pass the resulting paternoster through the feeder rings. Pass the large loop through the swivel ring on the feeder. We pull out this ring and pass the feeder through it. When tightening the loop, try to keep the tightening not at one point, but spread over the swivel (see photo). This makes it easy to change the feeder without breaking the loop. Or we use a latch, with which it will also not be difficult to change the feeder.

Loop to loop, attach the hook leash to the small loop.

And the paternoster is ready. See also video

2. Paternoster (blind rigging).

We measure a loop of about 10 centimeters, make a knot in three or four turns, moisten and tighten well. Cut in the middle. At one end we make a small loop for the hook, and the other we tie to the feeder.

After fishing, it should be cut off and tied new.

Asymmetrical (asymmetrical) loop

This is probably the most popular feeder attachment. Its main advantage is sensitivity. And the disadvantage is the tendency to entanglement when casting, especially when the leash is more than 40 centimeters long.

If, with an active bite, I once again throw this tackle, but there is no bite, then again an overlap. I pull it out - for sure!

For this rig, it is important to choose a hard line with a diameter of 0.3-0.45. An asymmetrical loop consists of two parts: a twist with a hook loop and the asymmetrical loop itself.

We take two meters of fishing line and fold it in half. We measure out 1.5-2 centimeters, and make a loop for the hook.
A method of twisting that everyone will succeed in: we fasten the loop to some object, and twist the fishing line 10-15 cm long tightly. We tighten the double knot at the end. You should get such a layering.
On the remaining line we measure an asymmetrical loop with sides of 60-70 cm by 40-50 cm. We pass a carabiner through the larger side to attach the feeder. And tighten the double knot.

In this rig, the feeder slides freely along the loop, which gives the maximum sensitivity of the tackle. When casting, the twist moves the hook to the side, preventing it from overwhelming the loop.

Watch the video of the asymmetric loop

After fishing, it should be cut off and a new one tied.

Important components of feeder rigs and their properties

Main line. In the installation of a feeder rod, a monofilament line is used. We recommend paying attention to the following brands Mikado Sensei Feeder, Trabucco T-Force feeder, Shimano Technium.

Monofilament diameter 0.2-0.24.

Price: 180 rub.

Price: 350 rub.
Shimano Technium.
Price: 1150 rub.

We do not recommend brands Salmo, Colmic, Gamakatsu, Owner, Suffix due to their lack of rigidity. In feeder fishing it is very important that the line does not stretch. This allows the tackle to remain sensitive to bites and to accept even the smallest fish touches on the rod tip.

Attention! Why don't we use braided line?

The fact is that feeder fishing associated with constant rubbing of the fishing line on the bottom of the reservoir. The braid is subject to rapid abrasion, while the monofilament, on the contrary, practically does not deform when in contact with gravel, stones and snags.

However, a quality braided line is used in competitive fishing. If you like, we recommend Pontoon 21 Extreama 0.14-0.16 mm. Price: 1050 rub. for 100 m.

Fluorocarbon leashes. The hook fits to a fluorocarbon (fluorocarbon) line for two reasons:

This line is almost invisible in the water and does not frighten the fish.
Has increased rigidity, and this reduces the tangling of the rig. The length of the leashes, depending on the rig, is 10-100 cm.For example, in the rigging Method - 10 cm, and in the Helicopter and two knots - 100 cm.

Top models: Pontoon 21 Grand Fluorocarbon and Owner Broad Game Pro 0.1-0.31 mm.

Pontoon 21 Grand Fluorocarbon.
Price: RUB 655 Owner Broad. Price: 330 rub.

On sale there are ready-made leashes Owner RL 340 (thin hooks for bream), RL 330 (yellow hooks for corn), RL 044 (dark hooks for a worm). The choice for those who do not want to knit a leash with a hook and make a loop to the snap on their own.

Leash thickness. For a hook leash, use 0.1-0.2 mm depending on the weight of the intended fish. Up to 1 kg of loot 0.1 mm of fluorocarbon is enough for you. V feeder equipment Running Feeder Rig and some others use a line retraction of 0.3 mm hard hard fluorocarbon.

Swivel with a carbine. It is important to select a swivel commensurate with the feeder trough, especially when using non-branded models. We recommend using the Owner No. 14 swivel when using a feeder more than 60 g, and No. 12 when fishing in stagnant water with a small feeder.

Important! Use a swivel only in black or dark colors, but by no means golden. Vibrant rigs can scare fish away.

Crimp tube. Optional, but can be used for some rigs where heavy monofilament line is used. The crimp tube helps to secure the hook to the line without using knots at all. Nevertheless, we advise beginners to study the basic nodes and use them first.

Feeder. In total, 7 types of load-feeders are used in feeder gear, differing in their design. Key parameters to look out for:

Feeder shape. Round and spiral are suitable for fishing in stagnant water and in the absence or very weak current. Square and flat troughs are ideal for fishing in the current, as their shape prevents the current from moving the trough.
The weight. Feeders up to 30 g are ideal for fishing in stagnant water and at the same time, it is quite easy to throw such a load with a feeder rod at 50-80 m. Use heavier feeders for fishing in the current. Weight depends on the strength of the current and the depth of fishing. For example, in the Volga region on the Volga, 120 g square feeders are used.
The presence of thorns. Again, when fishing in the current, use feeder feeders with spikes.
The shape and location of the sinker. It is important for the quality of self-cutting of the feeder rig. The more massive the side of the sinker is close to the hook, the harder it will be for the fish to move it, therefore, the quality of spotting increases.
Closed or open types.
Closed The trough is designed for small and easily sprayed feed. The most popular are the spring and the bait animal feeder.
Open- with a sharp pull, it is easily released from the bait by pouring it in the right place. Varieties: cylindrical, rectangular, “curlers”, container, “Method”, with spikes and a bullet feeder that flies well.

Limiting stopper. The element is essential to protect the assemblies from the heavy elements of our assemblies. Use a hard rubber stopper, slightly worse - soft plastic and much worse use beads as a stopper due to their hardness. Sooner or later, they will damage the node.

Anti-twist tube. It will come in handy in a rig with the same name (the second name is “rocker” or “anti-twist tube”). Serves to divert the line with a leader to the side, which reduces the amount of tangling of the rig. It is used in the current and extremely rarely in stagnant water due to the massiveness of the element.

Anti-twist tube and bead stopper

Hooks. Choose hooks that are sharp and sturdy and will not bend or break. Editor's Choice - Owner. The standard size for the feeder is # 6-8. But for catching medium and small fish they are used up to No. 16 (roach, bream, silver bream), and when catching bleak on a floating rig - No. 20.

There are other elements, but they are used less often and we will talk about them later.

DIY feeder installations (photo + video instructions)

Most of the feeder rigs, which we will discuss below, cannot be bought assembled in the store, so you need to know how to knit them yourself.

All feeder assemblies can be made in no longer than 5 minutes. Be sure to watch the videos under each rig type.

Alexey Fadeev, world champion in feeder fishing
Vladimir Nikolaev, author of the popular Youtube channel about carp fishing and the secrets of carp fishing.

Paternoster

To link the paternoster feeder rig, we need:

The main line (we will knit the feeder rig right on it).
Swivel with clasp (carabiner).
Load feeder.
Fluorocarbon line (1 m).
Hook number 8 by international numbering.

This diagram of the feeder equipment and all subsequent ones shows the dimensions of the elements. Check out the specific firms of the woods at the beginning of the article.

Step-by-step instruction:

Watch a step-by-step video tutorial on knitting a paternoster for beginner anglers from Alexey Fadeev, world champion in feeder fishing.

Running Feeder Rig

The swivel ring is compressed with pliers to act as a stopper on the knot

Feeder rigging Raning feeder rig is a sports installation and differs from unsportsmanlike ones in that if a fish breaks the tackle, the feeder will remain at the bottom, and the fish will remain only with a hook, which guarantees a minimum of damage and a greater chance of survival. The Running Feeder Rig fits on both monofilament and braided lines. But we recommend using the braid. Used by sports anglers in competition.

Helicopter and two knots

Feeder rigging helicopter and two knots are used for catching fish from the bottom and in the middle layers of the water. It shows itself especially well in the current when fishing for roach, bream and bream, silver bream in conditions of active biting.

Mount on the main line.

At the end of the line, measure 30 cm and fold in half
On the resulting folded section, measure 10 cm and tie the "Figure Eight" knot.
Measure a distance of 2 cm from the connected knot and make another “figure eight” knot. It will not be easy to connect because of the proximity of two nodes, but it is quite doable. We will get a loop and 2 knots.
Cut off the unnecessary extra segment with scissors.
We pass the feeder through the swivel into the loop. We fasten the swivel using the cape (stranglehold) method.
Measure 1 m on a fluorocarbon line, cut off.
Make a loop at one end of the fluorocarbon (preferably a figure-eight knot).
Now we need to connect the rig to the fluorocarbon leader. Insert the eyelet into the 2 cm gap formed from the two knots in step # 3. Then thread the free end of the fluorocarbon into the loop of the leash and tighten. Thus, using the noose methods, we fastened the harness and the leash.

The helicopter and two-knot feeder rig is very sensitive to bites, as the bait is almost in direct tension with the main line going to the tip of your feeder rod.

Asymmetrical loop

Feeder rig "Asymmetric (asymmetric) loop" is knitted both on the main line and on a separate piece of line.

Can be knitted both while fishing and before fishing (do removable assembly). We need Owner fluorocarbon line. Line diameter - 0.28-0.31 mm.

Fluorocarbon has a high hardness, which is extremely important when making assemblies. All knots must be rigid. This will improve the sensitivity of the bites and their delivery. Also, fluorocarbon (in another way - fluorocarbon) is practically invisible in the water, which makes it possible to hide the rig from the fish. And most importantly, fluorocarbon is not so badly injured on a rough bottom with shell rock, driftwood and other debris in the water, so it is ideal for installation.

Step-by-step instruction

Measure a distance of 30-40 cm from the end of the line
Form a loop (fold the line in half). Tie an Eight knot.
Next, form a curl. These are two intertwined lengths of line. It is most convenient to just take the loop in the teeth, very carefully, without injuring the fishing line, and start twisting the two ends of the fishing line clockwise or counterclockwise until you get a hard twist 15 cm long.
In the place where the weaving ends, pinch with your fingers and form another "Eight" knot. It is done like this: The upper segment is superimposed on the lower one. At the point of intersection, you pinch this place with your fingers and then unfold the resulting loop away from you and draw the resulting loop window into your twist. Hold the place of fixation with your fingers and tighten (be sure to moisten).
Second part of the rig: Hinge. The rig is called asymmetrical. One part of the buttonhole will be longer than the other. We take a swivel with a fastener, for example, Owner No. 12 due to the fact that it is versatile and very durable. Slip a piece of line into the swivel. Bring to the knot. Next, fold the two lines.
Now we need to create an asymmetry of the rig, make it so that one piece of line is longer. Namely, the one on which the swivel with a clasp is fixed. To do this, we fold the line in half and pull on the swivel, releasing the bottom of the line. You can make this distance 1 or 2 cm.
Measure from the knot a distance of 10 to 15 cm. In this place we fix the fishing line with your fingers.
Now fix the rig with the same “Eight” node.
Cut off the unnecessary piece of fluorocarbon closer to the knot.
The third element of the rig - the section will be fixed with the main line (if you are making the rig not on the main line. Fold the section in half, form a small loop and fix it with the “Eight” knot. Cut the rest of the line to the very knot.
Tie a working fluorocarbon leash with a thickness of 0.24 cm to the twist loop using the Loop to Loop method.

Important!

When assembled, the twist should end 2 cm below the trough. This rule must be followed so that the rig does not get confused during casts and during reeling when you re-throw the feeder tackle. If the twisting ends at the level with the feeder, then there is a high probability of entanglement.

Observe correct asymmetry. Don't make the overhang too big (more than 2 cm). In this form, it will lose its basic concept. With a large overhang, the effect of hiding the bite occurs. If the fish is cautious, then it will try the snap and you will not see a bite. A neat crucian carp will eat the bait, and you will not recognize it. Do not hang more than 2 cm!

If using fluorocarbon twisting line, do not use thicker than 0.3 mm. Otherwise, it will look too rough in the water.

Three important features of the asymmetric hinge rig

An asymmetrical hinge is the only rig that is immune to negative factors:

heavy rain shakes the rod tip, transfers vibration to the bait;
strong wind;
angler's mistakes, unnecessary touches to the rod blank.

When fishing with an asymmetrical loop, the bait and bait lie in place, regardless of external influences on the feeder tackle: rod tip, line. This is very important when fishing for trophy fish (crucian carp, bream, ide and carp, carp and grass carp, etc.).

Self-locking rig. It is unsportsmanlike, but thanks to the loop when taking the bait into its mouth, the fish does not feel the resistance of the feeder. The hook penetrates deep into the mouth and after a second or two the fish, moving from the place of fishing, is detected by the gravity of the feeder.

The asymmetrical loop rig can be used many times if it is not damaged during fishing. Before fishing, prepare 7-10 pieces so that when the tackle breaks, you can very quickly change the installation and continue fishing.

Symmetrical loop

We will need:

Fluorocarbon Pontoon 21 Grand Fluorocarbon. Diameter: 0.28-0.31 mm.
Swivels with clasps Owner No. 12-14.

We will make removable rigs so that you can make 5 or more pieces before fishing, and during fishing, change or replace one with another if necessary. It is convenient to store your rigs on a float reel or in another special container.

The Symmetrical Loop is similar to the Running Rig, but the difference is that the latter is a slip-free rig that only forms when fishing on the main line. A symmetrical loop is a self-locking rig.

Step-by-step instruction:

Unwind 30 cm of fluorocarbon line.
Fold in half and knit with a figure 8 knot.
Next, we form a twist with a length of 10 cm.
We fix it with the same knot.
On one of the free ends of the line we string a swivel and bring it to the knot.
We measure from the knot a distance of 15 cm and knit one more knot "Eight". The trough travel can be even more, up to 40 cm.
Cut off the extra piece of fishing line.
We attach the feeder load to the swivel.
From the free end of the fishing line, 20 cm from the knot, make another loop with a figure eight knot. We need it to attach the main line using the loop-to-loop method.

Important! The length of the twist should be below the bottom of the trough to avoid tangling.

How does it work?

The feeder falls to the bottom. The fish finds the bait and begins to move to the side. It also makes a jerk due to the fact that there is a rigid fixation of the swivel and the feeder - the fish hooks itself under the weight of the feeder. Due to the symmetry, we have a very fast bite signal than in an unbalanced loop rig.

This rig is used for catching small and medium-sized fish (medium-sized crucian carp, roach, podleschik) in the moments of active biting. It shows itself well on rivers, lakes and ponds, where the bottom is not flooded, and even better is a dense solid surface.

The main advantages of an asymmetrical hinge are:

self-chops fish;
sensitive to bite;
it can be used many, many times.

Flat method

Flat method- carp feeder equipment, which is based on a feeder with a flat sinker. The uniqueness of the feeder is that it sinks with a sinker downwards, thanks to this, the bait, which is hidden in the upper part of the feeder, is always open and available for fish.

Ideal for fishing on muddy ponds and ponds with a dark peat bottom when fishing for crucian carp, carp and bream completely different sizes, including trophy specimens up to 10 kg.

Varieties:

Classic flat mounts on main line, lightweight and suitable for feeder fishing.
Carp flat method. Elements of carp equipment are used (, leadcore, larger flat-method feeders).

How to make a classic flat method

Necessary:

Flat-method feeder (mini-flat from 15 g, heavy up to 100 g). They come with a classic swivel.
Mold is a special device for loading groundbait into a flat-method feeder. Usually comes with a feeder. But you can buy it separately.
Monofilament line 0.25-0.30 mm. A very important advantage over the braid is that it stretches. This allows you to absorb the strong jerks of large fish.

Instructions:

The main line is threaded through the narrow part of the Method trough.
Next, we push the fishing line into the feeder. We get the Inline system when the line passes through the feeders. There are other types of systems as well.
Next, at the tip of the fishing line we knit a small loop with a figure eight knot, do not forget to moisturize. Cut off the excess fishing line.
We push the loop into the special connector of the feeder, it looks like a small hollow cylinder. It will block the swivel we are about to attach.
We attach the swivel to the loop with a stranglehold.
We put the connector on the swivel.
And now we thread this connector into the method feeder. The swivel is tightly fixed in the body of the feeder.
The cone that we put on the fishing line in the first step is put on the method feeder. The feeder is now firmly attached to the rig.
The leash thickness is 0.16-0.20, do not be afraid to use such a thick line, because it will practically not be visible, the bait will be hidden inside the feeder. Hooks No. 4 according to international numbering only when fishing with a large bait in the form of several corn kernels. Use hook # 6 or # 8 more often. Leash length 15cm, no longer needed.
Leash attachment. Make a loop on the leash to secure it to the swivel using the loop-to-loop method. That's all. You can make such a rig in 3-5 minutes.

How to load groundbait into the Method feeder?

The bait should be of a special “method consistency”, more viscous.

We bait a grain of corn on the hook. You need to thread it through the corn from the narrow side, taking it to the side, so that the sting of the hook sticks out from the side of the nozzle. Such fastening is much more reliable than fastening through the wide part of the corn (after all, it is less dense).
We put the bait (attachment) inside the mold. Usually it has a special indentation for it.
Next, pour some bait into it - a little with a slide, but not ramming.
We lower the feeder into the filled mold so that the line between the bait and the feeder does not get into the bait, but simply is outside it in a suspended state.
Press with both hands. Strong enough. It is important that the bait is very tightly attached to the frame of the feeder.
We take out the feeder from the mold.

How does it work?

Feeder equipment with a flat-method feeder does not lose feed after casting and contact with water. Having reached the bottom, it lands on a flat sinker, leaving the baited feed at the top. The food gradually dissolves, and the fish senses it. After swimming, bream, carp or crucian carp begin to eat bait, among which lies an appetizing corn grain with the taste of gum. The fish sucks in the bait, and when trying to leave the feeding place, it is detected under the weight of the feeder.

Popular attachments: Bloodworms, maggots, worms, canned corn, pellets, etc.

How to make a hair montage?

Hair cuts with a ringlet and cambric. Do not use long shank hooks. The implementation of bites will be lower.

Very good hooks Owner Eseama 14-16 when using a hair rig and 8-10 without it. These hooks have an inward curved sting, which increases the chance of a successful fish catch.

The size of the boilies is 10 mm.

Hair rigs are made for hunting trophy fish. Hair is a branch from a fishing line or leash material, on which the bait is attached, and the hook is located next to the hair and the bait, without direct contact.

The advantage of a hair rig is more confident bites. The fish, when sucking in the bait, does not feel the weight of the hook. The hook easily slips into the mouth of the fish and is sure to catch on the lip when striking.

Hair is effective when catching bottom fish - crucian carp, carp, carp, barbel and bream, but it is less often used when fishing with feeder rigs, the best option is a flat-method feeder.

We will need:

Fluorocarbon line 0.2 mm
Hooks No. 6-8
Cambric
Boilies needle

Instructions:

On fluorocarbon we knit a loop with a diameter of 3-5 mm with a figure-eight knot or a regular knot.
We measure the length of the leash at 50 cm, cut it off.
On the free end of the leash, string 2-3 pieces of a silicone tube (cambric) 5 mm long.
We take a hook with a slightly elongated sting and hold this sting inside the silicone tubes starting with the last one we put on the leash.
We start the free end of the line from the outside of the hook. So that in the final version of the rig, the line comes out of the hook with inside(from the side of the sting). This is important in order to increase the chance of getting the fish correctly spotted.
We make 6 turns around the forend of the hook and once again pass through the ring in the same direction. The result is a nodeless connection.

Baiting a boilie for a hair montage

We pierce the boilie in the center with a special boilie needle.
There is a hook at the tip of the needle, hook on the tip of your hair rig and slide the needle back through the boilie.
Secure the boilie to the hair with a stopper. The color of the stopper should be close to the color of the boilie.

Feeder rig with anti-twist

The anti-twist feeder rig is a classic and one of the first installations, which is used when fishing on a muddy bottom and hard ground.

We thread the main line inside the anti-twist.
Next, thread a bead or rubber stopper. They will serve as a protection for the swivel, which will anchor further away from the massive anti-twist. The rubber stopper cushions impacts better, so we recommend using this.
Tie a swivel to the end of the line with a clinch knot. Be sure to wet the knot to avoid burning the line.
We attach the feeder to the fastener (carabiner) of the anti-twist.
Making a leash. We measure out 50 cm of fluorocarbon line. We form a loop at one of the ends and use the loop-to-loop method to attach it to the swivel of our rig with an anti-twist.
We attach a hook to the free end of the leash.

In the current installation, you can use a rubber shock absorber, which will allow the fish to swallow the bait even deeper, and then when the rubber's tensile limit is over, a notch will occur.

All structural elements of this rig are attached in exactly the same way as in the installation with the anti-twist device, except for the feeder. Make a 10 cm piece of line twisted from two lines between the anti-twist and the feeder. This will raise the tube and the rig with it a little higher above the bottom. It turns out a kind of symbiosis with the "Helicopter and two knots" equipment.

Use a longer lead and lighter attachments in this variation so that the bait will sink to the bottom for as long as possible when the feeder falls to the bottom. This will certainly provoke active fish to bite.

Floating feeder rig

The floating feeder is ideal for catching surface fish such as sabrefish, bleak and rudd.

The structurally floating feeder rig is a copy of the “symmetrical loop” installation, with the exception of 2 nuances:

The feeder is used as a Floating Feeder, that is, floating. At its base is not only a sinker, but also a cork material that allows you to throw the rig far enough, and when touched with water, stay on the surface. Feeding occurs by spreading a cloud of turbidity in the water.
The leash can be made a little less short.

The length of the symmetrical loop for a successful self-notching is 7 cm, no more.

Use smaller hooks that match the size of the fish's mouth. When hunting for rudd or sabrefish - No. 16 according to the Owner classification. For bleaching 18-22.

Making carp montages with your own hands

Superficially, we have already touched on the topic of carp. Now let's dwell on them in more detail.

Carp mounting “Safety clip”

Safety clip(safety clips) - an element that attaches the lead to the line contributing to the easy release of the fish from the lead when the main line breaks.

This rig has advantages over other rigs when fishing in a snag, as the weight is secured in a secure clip, which guarantees detachment under strong tension.

We will need:

Leadcore (45 lb thick). This element has a braid and a lead core. Plays the role of weighting the rig at the bottom so that the line does not hang in the water column and does not frighten the fish. The second role of the leadcore is a safer material for fish when playing. The carp will not be scratched during sudden maneuvers because the material is soft and thick.
Mounting needle for leadcore.
Quick release with swivel.
Safety clip (Safety Clips, with a lock for blind rigging or sliding) - plastic or metal. The disadvantage of a plastic one is that it breaks during power casts. There are also metal options on sale, try it.

Instructions:

We fix the leadcore in the needle. To do this, pull out a core about 3 cm long from it and bite off with tongs. Return the braid to its original position and bend the leadcore where it ran out of the core. In the place of the fold, pierce the leadcore with a needle for it and bring it out after 2 cm towards the tip.
We put the swivel on the tip of the leadcore, and then hook the needle with this very tip and begin to slowly rotate the tip of the leadcore inward to the left and right, forming a loop.
Cut off the extra piece of the tail, leaving a little more than 1 mm. We tighten it very much. The harder you pull, the more firmly the braids will be fixed to each other and will not unwind in any way.
We drip a drop of Moment Profi glue in the place where the leadcore shell went inside for an additional guarantee of strength.
The length of the lead core will be 60 cm. Do the same operation from steps 1 to 4 on the other side. And yes, having a lead core is very different. carp mounts from classic feeder rigs.
We insert the needle into the clip from the side where we will have the cone, fasten the leadcore into the needle and pull through the clip to the very end.
The clip is put on the swivel on the other side of the leadcore. It is important to fix the swivel in the clip using a small plastic quick release, this is part of the clip itself.
Step 7 is also done with the clip cone.
We put the sinker on the clip and fix it with a cone.

Inline carp rig

There are many types of Inline mounting made on the Internet, and most of them structurally repeat the Running Feeder Rig rig. But historically, Inline is a carp rig for carp fishing (waiting) fishing, not feeder fishing. In carp fishing, the feeder tip is not used as a bite signaling device, but a bite is recognized by an electronic signaling device. When the line is bled off the reel, the signaling device emits a sound. Naturally, this is a sliding rig, which means sports.

Inline is suitable for fishing on rocky hard bottom, on shell rock. Not suitable for fishing in snags, as the lead does not shoot back under strong tension. On a muddy bottom it is also bad.

Feeder mounting Inline is very good at self-chopping of carp and carp due to the drop-shaped lead. The part of the lead close to the leash has a thickening, which gives much more resistance to lifting from the bottom. Consequently, the undercut with a lead is sharper.

You will need:

Inline loads
Leadcore (with or without a core) length 60 cm
The needle is thin for the leadcore
Large Broaching Needle
Scissors and glue
Swivel

Instructions:

We form a loop at one of the ends of the leadcore (we use the leadcore without a core). We drip with glue to fix the loop.
We fasten the swivel using the loop-to-loop method.
We insert the mounting needle into the Inline sinker from the side of the connector tube (narrow part), attach the free tip of the leadcore to the needle. We tighten the swivel inside the sinker by sipping on the free tip of the leadcore.
The leash is attached to the swivel using the loop-to-loop method or other reliable knot.

Improvement of rigs

Feeder Gum, Power Gum

Feedergam dampens the sharp jerks of the fish. This is a piece of rubber between the feeder rig and very thin fluorocarbon leads (eg 0.1 mm).

Feeder rubber is important for creating a shock-absorbing effect in the rig. this is especially important when using the main cord - braids. Length - 10-12 cm, thickness 0.6-0.8. Feeder Gum provides delicate fishing with very thin line (0.1 mm).

Mounting:

Stretch the feedergam. When tightening the knot, it will return to its original state and give the knot more strength.
Make a figure-eight knot on the feedergam on both sides of the elastic.
Feedergam will be an intermediate link between any of the rigs and a fluorocarbon leader. Everything is fastened using the “Loop to loop” method.

Important:

Don't make the feedergam long. Up to 15 cm is ideal. 30 cm - overkill. The longer the rubber, the more the rig gets tangled and the less the rig's sensitivity.
Do not use colored rubber bands. Take transparent ones. It doesn't scare the fish.
Do not glue the gum knots. It eats away at the feedergam.
Lighten your feeder rigs. Do not use swivels when attaching swivels. Loop-to-loop only. This will reduce weight, reduce the amount of debris that can be caught from the bottom by unnecessary elements in the installation.

Asymmetrical hinge + feedergam = the best combination.

Protection of the rig from snagging

In order to protect the rig from snagging on driftwood, falling through stones - reduce the thickness of the line on which the feeder weight is attached. When hooked, you will lose the feeder, but if there was a fish on the hook, you will fish it out.

Applicable in rigs:

Paternoster and Gardner's loop.
A helicopter and two knots, if you knit a large loop on a thinner line.

On Inline rigs, Method - use a secure clip. If it is hooked, it will unfasten.

Take action!

Equip your feeder rod with a rigid, inextensible monofilament line such as Mikado Sensei Feeder 0.24 mm 150 m... This will increase the number of bites.
Decide on the fishing conditions. Let's say we we want to catch bream on the Volga... This river usually has current and solid bottom, so we will use a feeder rig Helicopter and two knots... Collect it directly on the main line according to our instructions from this article. It will take no more than 10 minutes.
Since fishing takes place on the current, at great depths and at a distance from the shore of at least 50 m, it should choose a feeder trough weighing from 80 to 120 g... Choose a shape square type with spikes to prevent the pan from slipping on the bottom.
Tie to feeder rig fluorocarbon leash 0.3 mm thick and 1 m long... At the end - hook number 8 by international numbering. The mouth of the bream is not very large, so small hooks should be used.
Use as bait a bunch of maggots... Bream is very fond of bundles of 5 or more pieces.
There must be sweet ingredients in the bait (vanillin, the taste of gum, cake).
After catching fish, not necessarily bream, please share your experience here in the comments below the article. Thanks for reading!

And other open water baits.

Main types

Usually carp are caught with either float or feeder rods.

For productive fishing, the first are completed as follows:

A reel containing 100 meters of line.
A mono line with a diameter of 2.5 mm, which is useful for a leash.
Sliding mounting.
Lead strands for the sinker.
Hooks numbered 6, 8 or 10.

The feeder rod requires the following equipment:

2.5m rod must have a sensitive tip and plug connection;
A spool containing a 0.25 mm line.
The leash is 40 to 80 centimeters long.

Carp mounts with feeder

In-line

One of the simplest, most effective and popular options for mounting accessories. Its essence lies in the fact that the anti-winding agent goes right through the center of the lead. Often, inline is used when fishing in a pond or a small lake, because there is no need for long casting.

Another advantage, in addition to the ease of knitting, is the fact that when using this type of installation, the carp will face the mass of the entire pear-shaped sinker. Consequently, the sweep will be very effective.

This is achieved due to the close position of the leader in relation to the center of gravity of the sinker. If you change its shape from pear-shaped to flat or even use a "bump", then inline is suitable for fishing on the current.

Thus, when using different configurations of weights, this type of installation becomes unique. The main disadvantages of inline are poor aerodynamics during casting and limited range.

Assembly technique:

The swivel is tied to the fishing line.
After it, a rubber stopper is tightly tied.
The fishing line is pulled into the feeder.
The line is stretched 35 centimeters further and a loop is made from it.
For a leash, you need monofilament 10-12 centimeters long.
Next, a hook is attached, which has a hair attachment.

In-line carp equipment

Carp and carp killer

For installation you will need:

braided line with a diameter of 0.13 mm;
mono line with a diameter of 0.2 mm;
a "cage" type feeder, which is equipped with a fastener.

The choice of hooks will depend on the size of the fish:

The 12th or 15th number is suitable for medium-sized fish;
7 and 8 - for a bigger catch.

Build process:

The line is wound on a reel, after which it is pulled into the rings of the rod.
Then the line is bent in half a meter from the end of the rod. A knot is tied 20 centimeters from the edge.
A sinker is attached to the resulting loop along with a feeder.
The remaining segment is tied to a segment twenty centimeters long. It is designed for a leash.

Rig "Paternoster"

Hair Rig Hook

The main feature is that there is no need to put the bait on the hook. It will go down the carp's throat when it swallows. We'll have to use auto-crop. Hair accessories require a hook for mounting, which must have maximum strength, and hair (soft and small in diameter).

The assembly takes place as follows:

The bait is attached at a distance of 2 centimeters from the hook.
The hair is wrapped several times so that it can be extended later.
Hair rig is ready!

Hair Rig Hook

Necessary components

Hooks

First, decide on the crochet hook. For carp fishing, 3 types are often used: with a sting, bent inward or bent back, as well as hooks with a long and concave forend.

It is preferable to use those that have an inward curved sting. When applied, the chances of effective pinching and reliable fish swallowing are increased.

Leashes

Pop-up, invisible, sinking and neutral leashes are used in carp fishing.

Their choice will depend on taking into account the characteristics of all types:

A long leash will scare the carp less, but the fish will have more time to free themselves from the hook.
With a short leash, the bite can be noticed literally immediately, but it will be more frightening.

Therefore, when fishing for carp, it is preferable to use them, because it has a more elongated body.

Combo leash for carp fishing

Sinkers

They are one of the most important ingredients when fishing for carp.

In order for fishing to be successful, the following characteristics of a weight are needed:

He must, in any terrain, firmly hold the rig in any type of bottom.
The lead is required to provide excellent line pressure for early bite notification.
Conditions must be provided for positioning the bait at the required distance.

Carp sinkers

Anti-twist

You will need it when using the safety clip. When choosing, pay attention to the smell of the anti-curling agent.

It sounds strange, but carps are susceptible to them, so a good fisherman should choose quality products that do not have a specific smell. The anti-twist tubes should not shine, so as not to scare off the fish.

Anti-twist devices with floats of three types - spindle, ball, tablet

Swivels

The main functions of these devices are:

Attaching a stopper where the lead will connect.
Avoiding twisting of the rig.

The most versatile and popular are the number 10 swivels. They fit any clip. When choosing a swivel, remember that the rule "The more the better" works here.

Swivels

The choice of equipment depending on the fishing conditions

Smooth bottom

Use a paternoster if there is a crucian carp in the by-catch and a flat method with a target.

This is where a simple and effective hair rig comes in handy.

Driftwood

It's better not to fish in the snag. But if there is no choice, then use Inline and oval weights.

Il

Only paternoster and flat method. The first one drowning in silt will not take away the bait, and the second simply will not drown due to the shape of the feeder.

We recommend that you wet the knot before tightening it. This will strengthen it and prevent the line from breaking.
In the absence of a bite, there is no need to change the equipment completely, only a partial change is enough.
In order to achieve an even and smooth placement of the bait on the bottom, it is best to attach a spring or sinker to the tip of the line.
It is best to use different types of groundbait in the springs. This will significantly increase the chance of luring carp.