Donka with a feeder is a catchy and popular tackle. With its help, a small container with bait is delivered to the immediate vicinity of the nozzle, which allows you to increase the number of bites. For all the seeming simplicity of the device of such a donkey, when installing it, several subtleties must be taken into account, which will be discussed in the article.

General information about donks

Peculiarity bottom fishing rods with feeders in that the container in which the bait is laid has a double function. When cast, it becomes a load and flies a long distance; when it falls to the bottom, it turns into a place for fish feeding. In this way, the angler not only delivers a hook with bait to the required point, but also tells where to eat.

In addition to this quality, there are also other advantages such as the possibility of fishing at long distances, at a depth or in a current where it is not possible to precisely throw the bait, and finally, the costs of component parts are low. The main disadvantage is the difficulty in using the donkey in tight places.

To understand how to make a donk with a feeder, you should familiarize yourself with the types of donk. The most commonly used bottom gear of the following designs:

"Zakidushka". The oldest tackle. It is a line with a diameter of 0.3-04 mm and a length of up to 50 meters, collected on a reel. Initially, a weight was used, fixed at the end of the rig, and leashes with hooks were located a little higher. Then sliding weights were used, and the leash with a hook was moved to the end. This decision increased the sensitivity of the tackle. Feeders in this version are not used for a simple reason: in order to throw the bait, the angler first untwists the load, and due to centrifugal force, all the bait is poured out of the container.

"Elastic". Original and very catchy rig, which helps to achieve high results in mass fishing of such fish as crucian carp, roach, ram, sabrefish. To make it a bottom tackle, you just need to tie the rubber shock absorber directly to the load. The fishing line that follows then spreads along the bottom. You can make an elastic band with a feeder, but then you will have to choose a tighter shock absorber and the lightest possible container for feed so that less effort is spent on its delivery.

Spinning donka with a feeder... Has replaced the "zakidushka". Initially, a spinning rod (usually a large dough) was taken as a basis, equipped with an inertial or spinning reel, on which a fishing line with a load and hooks is wound. Later, a feeder, mainly of a spring type, in which the bait was kept as long as possible, began to be used as a load. This option was chosen for a simple reason: it is inconvenient to make frequent casts, but there are no more drawbacks of the zakidushka.

Feeder. Modern tackle, consisting of a special rod with flexible replaceable tips (signaling devices), spinning reel, monofilament with a diameter of no more than 0.3 mm and multiple variations of feeders and leashes.

What are the feeders

There are several types of feeders in which anglers deliver bait mixes. Let's describe them.

"Spring". The most common type of donkey feeder. Designed for standing water and is manufactured industrially or by hand exclusively in a sliding version. Assembling the tackle is very simple: just thread the line into the axial tube, then into the stopper, attach a swivel, to which you attach a leash with a hook.

Most often, it was equipped with a spinning donk with a feeder. Some modifications of the "spring" provide additional weight on its axis. If you need to load it yourself, then it is better to use a lead tape, making several turns on the axis.

The bait for such a feeder is prepared with a viscous consistency, so that it does not crumble from impact on the water and disintegrates for a long time when it falls to the bottom. It is rarely used on rivers and canals due to its shape and tendency to slide downstream.

Classic "spring" with a "rocker" and their location in the tackle

There are very small feeders with which both a half-boat and a fishing rod with a float can be equipped. Tackles collected in this way sometimes give unexpectedly good results.

"Cage" - a mesh feeder. The most common option. Appeared with implementation in practice fishing picker and feeder, and has been modernized and improved more than once during its existence. It is made with a built-in weight and is fixed at one point. It can be round or rectangular in cross-section.

With this feeder, you can go to any non-predatory fish, including carp and bream. The fisherman with its help first lures the selected fishing point, throwing a filled container several times without a hook and sharply pulling the tackle when it reaches the bottom. The food leaves the tunnel freely and remains in the water. Then a leash is put on, the tackle is thrown and the fishing process itself begins. Each time you hook up, additional feeding takes place.

Net feeder - the main tool for feeder fishing

If you plan to fish on strong current, a rectangular mesh with a large flat weight is chosen. In stagnant water, you can use either type, but if the bottom of the reservoir is silted up, you should prefer containers that do not go into the viscous bottom.

Closed feeder. A cylindrical plastic container of this kind is used in circumstances where the bait contains a large amount of animal constituents such as maggots or bloodworms. They can leave the inner space only through a limited number of holes, around which interested fish will be "on duty". Sometimes some of the outputs are overlapped for greater efficiency.

Closed feeders are designed for feeding with animal components

Naturally, such a feeder can be successfully used only in stagnant water, since it does not provide for weighting. But it does not sink much into silt, which is an additional advantage of this type of container.

Long casting feeders. When fishing, you may need to cast the tackle at a long distance (more than 60 meters). Ordinary mesh containers will not fly like this, and the loads may not withstand. Therefore, special designs have been developed that can travel long distances through the air.

To improve flight performance, a lead round weight is attached to the feeder at some distance, as a result of which it takes the shape of a bullet.

Bullet feeder - designed for long-distance fishing

This design should not be used on silted water bodies. In addition, she is prone to snagging.

Feeders for special occasions

In fishing practice, there are cases when conventional types of feeders are not suitable for fishing conditions. Let's describe them.

The old proven design has been successful in luring carp and carp over the years. It consists of a lead plate, to which a block of pressed sunflower cake is attached with the help of rubber from a bicycle tube.

Leashes with hooks here are tied tightly to the base, the nozzle on the hook was not put on, and its sting was stuck into the top at the corners of the drilled holes. The tackle worked on the principle of self-hooking, and the angler sometimes did not even set a bite alarm, determining the presence of a trophy by the sagging or tension of the line.

In the absence of biting, the hooks could be equipped with a nozzle preferred by large fish - corn, peas, soybeans, etc.

Top plate - passive tackle designed for large carp fish

Strong currents require the bait container to remain motionless throughout the fishing period. This is difficult to achieve with conventional mesh feeders. Therefore, the anglers made it as flat as possible, keeping the volume for the bait mixture.

Flat feeder for rivers with strong currents

In order for the other qualities of this element to remain in force, it was necessary to strengthen the attachment point to the fishing line. It is made all-metal.

This type of bait container is indirectly related to the topic of our article, but it should be mentioned, because sometimes in the process of fishing you have to rebuild on the go in order to get away from zero.

You can do it yourself by taking the feeder, removing the load and fixing a large volume of floating substance (polyurethane foam, foam, etc.) in the upper part (where there is no attachment). The main thing is that the device overturns in the water, gradually dropping the bait.

The tackle here will become more complicated, since it is necessary to calculate so that the nozzle does not sink too much, and the fish is not afraid of the container.

A floating feeder is a good tool for attracting fish close to the surface of the water.

How to attach a feeder to a fishing line

There are several recipes for rigging for a bottom fishing rod with a feeder. The leash is the same for everyone, but the attachment of the bait container depends on the intentions of the angler, his preferences and fishing conditions.

Sliding rig. It is used both for "springs", when the line is passed through the axial tube, and for feeders with one attachment point, when the line passes through the bracket eye or anti-twist tube. It is worth dwelling on the last option in more detail.

The essence of the rig is that when biting, the fishing line slides freely in a plastic tube, and when casting, the feeder with a nozzle is divorced and does not intersect. The finished item can be purchased in the store, but most often it is made by yourself.

As a counter-curl, anglers use either an empty ballpoint or gel fountain pen or a cocktail tube. The rigid structural element protects the rig from twisting and overlaps, without resisting the line.

The feeder is attached at the place of the fold, made about 1/3 of the tube, rigidly to the tube or with a small leash. The hook and container will be positioned at a certain angle when casting. Free movement of the main line within 30 centimeters is limited on both sides by stoppers. The hook lead can be placed directly after the straw.

The attachment point is made of copper or steel soft wire. When winding, a small eye is left into which a swivel or carabiner is threaded. You can select a small piece of insulation by diameter, which is put on the tube.

Anti-twist tube allows the line to slide freely inside and prevents the rig from twisting

The tackle is convenient, but athletes are skeptical about it due to poor camouflage in clear water.

Paternoster. Correctly assembling such equipment is not difficult, and the installation is carried out directly on the reservoir.

First, at the end of the line we tie a loop about 25 centimeters long. It should be knitted with a double knot, be sure to wet it for strength. Then we conditionally divide the loop circle into three parts and cut it at a distance equal to 2/3 of this circle. You get two unequal parts. To the larger one we tie the swivel for the leash, to the smaller one - the swivel for the feeder.

After casting and pulling the gear, they are parallel to each other. When biting, the force is directly transmitted to the signaling device, bypassing the feeder.

Equipping a donk with such a mount is also not difficult. First, a swivel is put on the fishing line, to which the feeder will be attached in the future. Then a side loop is knitted with a length of about 15 centimeters. And you need to make sure that the swivel is inside the loop. The free end is left 25-30 centimeters long.

Gardner's loop - paternoster modification (diagram)

The device of this type of bottom rig allows to increase the sensitivity of the tackle and reduce the number of overlaps when casting.

We take a separate piece of fishing line (preferably fluorocarbon for rigidity) about 80 centimeters long, fold it in half. We thread one end into a swivel. We knots at a distance of 10 centimeters from each edge. At the edges, we will have loops of 10 centimeters each, and in the center there will be a 20-centimeter loop with a swivel inside.

Symmetrical loop - comfortable when casting and doesn't get in the way when biting

Experienced anglers make twists from these small loops. A leash will be attached to one of them, and the main line to the other. After casting and pulling, the container will be close to the nozzle. When hooking, the fish will have 20 centimeters until the moment when it feels the resistance of the load.

Installation of such equipment is somewhat more difficult than the previous one, but if you practice it, it is quite achievable. Here, too, the central loop is knitted, but it should have an irregular shape.

The asymmetrical loop allows you to separate the leash and feeder to a safe distance

Overlaps in this version are minimized, and the sensitivity has increased even more, especially in the current.

Summing up, we note that fishing with a feeder can bring a lot of joy and pleasure to the angler. Such a tackle is easy to assemble, even in a budget version. The main thing is to choose the type of container that is acceptable for the reservoir and choose the right bait.

This lively fish has visited almost every angler's cage. And it is not surprising, because due to its unpretentiousness, crucian carp is very common, and it can be found in almost every body of water. He leads bottom method life and that is why, feeder equipment for crucian carp is The best way get this handsome man in your cage.

Crucian carp killer

It is in the first place, because many novice anglers use this rig to catch their first trophies. It is far from what we are used to and is not used in a sports feeder. At first glance, even very rude, but its effectiveness suggests otherwise.

The springs are taken with or without hollow tubes inside, but with fasteners at the front and back. In order to carry out the installation of the feeder equipment on the crucian carp, we take 1 meter of monofilament line 0.3-0.4 mm thick or braided, slightly smaller diameter. On one edge of the fishing line, we attach a fastener with a swivel, a weight weighing 30-40 grams will be attached to them, the main thing is that total weight all your rig, along with the groundbait, was 10-15 grams less than the top dough feeder rod... Then, at a distance of 15 cm from the load, a triple knot is made, then a bead or any other stopper is threaded and brought to the knot. After that, a spring is threaded, followed by a bead again, brought to the trough. Behind it a triple knot is mounted, so that it fits as closely as possible to the bead. We retreat from the knot 10 centimeters and again knit a triple knot, and put on a bead, bring it to the knot. Behind it we put on another feeder, after the bead and make a triple knot. Again, at a distance of 10 cm, we make a knot, thread the bead, bring it as far as possible to our knot, then thread the feeder, then thread the bead and bring it as close to the feeder as possible, after that we make a triple knot. Now, at a distance of 10 cm from the last feeder, we knit a swivel, which will connect our killer carp feeder rig with the main fishing line. Now it remains to attach the habits with hooks. They are attached with the help of the "noose" knot on the frame of the spring or between the knot and the bead.

In order for the tackle of the crucian carp not to get confused, it is necessary to take into account two points.

• Our main load must be heavier than the combined weight of the three feed springs. Based on this, use springs without a weight inside.
• The length of the leashes should be such that the hooks do not reach each other.

Feeder rig for crucian carp with flat-method feeder

If you are fishing on a stagnant body of water with muddy ground, this is exactly the case when the rest of the installations will be in a less advantageous position.

You can choose one of two mounting methods:

Inline method

To install it, we need a piece of fishing line 50-60 cm long, 0.25-0.4 mm in diameter. At one edge we attach a swivel or make a double loop. We pass a bead or stopper through the opposite end of the fishing line and bring it to our loop, then pass the feeder, and then the stopper again, retreat 35-40 cm and again knit a loop or fasten a swivel. At one edge, we attach the hook on a 10-15 cm long hairstyle, for the second main line.

Blind installation

Suitable for fishing with several rods, since it belongs to the self-tripping rigs. So we take a piece of fishing line 50 cm long.At one edge we attach a swivel, then we skip the feeder, bring it to the swivel, and drive it into its inner tube so that it is firmly fixed in it. Here, you initially need to choose a swivel for the inner diameter of the feeder tube. And then we retreat 30-35 cm and make a loop to connect to the main fishing line or attach a carabiner. If there is a ring on the feeder for attaching the hanger and the main line, then installation is even easier.

Asymmetrical and symmetrical hinge

It has a high sensitivity and at the same time the likelihood that the feeder equipment for crucian carp will get confused is minimal, it is excellent for fishing both in open areas and in vegetation, on current and standing water. The rig is self-locking. If the bottom is rather heavily littered or you need to make casts over 50 m, it is better to use a paternoster.

In order to carry out the installation of this equipment, we need a monofilament with a thickness of 0.2-0.4 mm. We take a segment 1 m long and fold it in half so that one edge protrudes by 10-15 cm.Then, holding the fishing line between your fingers, twist it in one direction (Fig. 1, 2),

the length of the twist is 5-10 cm. In order to fix the twist, we make a knot. Then we retreat 25-30 cm, but so that the excess fishing line (10-15 cm) remains with us in the form of a bulging loop. Here we skip a swivel with a carbine, to which the feeder will be attached. We make a knot and from the remaining line we mount a twist of 10-15 cm, attach a swivel at the edge. By the edge with a swivel, we attach the habits. For the opposite, main line. The length of the hairstyle is 30-100 cm, depending on the activity of the bite. If the bite is active, then it can be short, if the fish is careful, you need to try to increase the length of the habits.

You can also use a symmetrical loop, its installation is similar, only the line folds in half evenly.

The disadvantage of a symmetrical hinge is less sensitivity and a greater likelihood of rig overlap.

Paternoster

One of the most popular rigs, thanks to the ease of installation and the efficiency of fishing both on muddy ground and hard. Works well with various bottom drops. Minimal chance of overlapping a feeder with a leash on long casts.

In order to carry out the installation, we take a piece of monk 65-100 cm long, with a diameter of 0.15-0.35 mm.

First, we need to make a branch under the feeder, 10 cm long.For this, we fold part of the fishing line in half, so that at the exit we get a loop 10 cm long, and fix it with a figure eight, the feeder is attached to this loop through a carabiner-fastener. After that, we start the longer edge of the fishing line behind the feeder so that it is 4-5 cm away from it and knit a small (2-3 cm wide) surgical loop. We will mount habits to it. Its length is 30-100 cm, depending on the bite. We attach a swivel to the remaining free edge of the fishing line (35-40 cm), it will connect to the main fishing line.

We collect feeder tackle for crucian carp

Rod

If you are fishing in a stagnant body of water or in a bay, close to the shore (at the edge of aquatic vegetation). The ideal option would be picker carbon fiber rod. A light and small form, 2.1-3 m long, allowing the use of small feeders, the total weight of which with bait is no more than 40 grams. The advantage of such a rig is that the feeder creates a minimum of noise when it falls, and all other tackles are as delicate as possible. This will allow, while playing, to feel the slightest jerks of the fish and fully enjoy the fight. Many anglers use a regular weight instead of a feeder, and feed them with casting balls, as in float fishing. It is actively used in summer, in spring it is used as an auxiliary rod.

On rivers and reservoirs, composite or carbon rods of the class Medium with dough up to 90 grams, fast build. On small rivers, a blank length of 3-3.6 m is sufficient, for wide rivers and reservoirs, 3.6-3.9 m is better, because in early spring and late autumn, crucian carp will be at a considerable distance from the coast. More powerful forms, it makes no sense to use it, since the crucian does not like a strong current.

A medium class rod will be universal and will allow you to use feeder equipment on crucian carp, both with light feeders weighing 30 grams, and heavier 50 grams. Do not forget about feeder tips, soft tips are placed on picker and medium class rods, they are very sensitive and will allow you to determine the bite on the tip of the rod. In addition, the soft tips will not pull the bait at the bottom when manipulating the blank. When fishing on the current, it is advisable to take with you a tip of medium hardness.

Read more about choosing a feeder rod.

Coil

Inertia-free, with a gear ratio of about 5: 2.1, we don't need more powerful ones. The spool is low-profile and should be large enough to spool 100 m of 0.2 mm line. For a picker, you can do less, you still won't throw far. A friction clutch is needed, because you may come across a large crucian carp or bream. It is up to you to decide whether it is front or rear. If you are going to use braided line then the reel should be coated to prevent the cord from rubbing against the soft plastic. Bearings 3 plus one in the line guide roller, more is possible, if it's not China. Do not forget about the quality of the laying of the line, it should wind evenly without overlaps.

Fishing line

When fishing at a distance of up to 25 m, when in the long term catching handsome men in 0.5-1 kg, it is better to use a monk. Thanks to the stretching, it will allow you to compensate for the jerks of the fish when playing. When fishing at a distance of more than 30 m, fishing for medium-sized crucian carp or fishing in early spring and autumn, you should give preference to feeder equipment for catching crucian carp using a braided line, since it is more sensitive.

The thickness of the monofilament depends on the size of the trophy 0.18-0.25 mm, braids 0.15-0.16 mm, the main thing is that it can withstand a breaking load of 2.5-3 kg. The color of the line should match the color of the pond.

The habits are used thinner than the main line by 0.02-0.03 mm and having a smaller breaking load... In clear water, fluorocarbon is an excellent choice, in which case it is almost invisible to fish. In thickness, it will be 1.5-2 times thicker than a monofilament leash. Braid is not used as leashes

Hooks

According to the international classification No. 14-10, sharp, with a short forend and a wide underpants.

Feeders

Feeder rig for crucian carp No. 1 is a tackle with a flat-method feeder. This is due to the fact that the crucian carp prefers silty soil, and it has a wide base and does not get stuck in it as much as other feeders. Also for these purposes, you can use plastic mesh feeders with wings.

In the course and at great depth a good choice these are metal mesh feeders (rectangular and cylindrical with a flat base). In autumn and spring, when we need to make the most distant casts, it is worth choosing rocket feeders; their aerodynamic characteristics allow us to make the most distant casts.

Spring feeders are quite popular for catching crucian carp.

Finding a fishing spot

But before you start collecting our feeder tackle for crucian carp, you need to know where to look for it.

Spring crucian carp

The activity of the crucian carp begins to manifest itself when the water is heated to 5-7 degrees, at which time it moves through the reservoir in search of food, it is worth remembering that the crucian does not really like the current, especially its not love manifests itself in early spring and late autumn. Now, if the day is sunny, it can be found close to the coast, at a depth of 1.5 m, since at such a depth the water warms up faster. Promising places will be seamounts abundantly overgrown with grass, snags, dense thickets of reeds, meadows flooded during floods. On cold, cloudy days, or in case of danger, the fish go to the depths. In early spring, initially it is worth using two rods, we throw one in shallow water, the second at a considerable distance from the coast and look where the crucian is more active, and there we catch it.

With gradual warming and the approaching spawning season, the fish leave for quiet bays, abundantly covered with thickets of reeds. Spawning in southern latitudes - early May, in mid-latitudes - mid to late May, lasts 3-4 weeks.

Catching crucian carp on a feeder in summer

Summer, the best time for carp fishing, it starts at dawn and ends at 9-10 am, in the evening it can actively start catching 2 or 3 hours before sunset. It can be quite effective night fishing crucian carp. But in the afternoon, when the summer heat sets in, the feeder equipment for crucian carp can lie in vain. Often on shallow stagnant bodies of water during especially hot days, crucian carp may not be caught at all throughout the day. Crucian carp is most active, in the first month of summer, now at the beginning of fishing, use several rods, throwing them at different distances:

not far from the coast on the border of aquatic vegetation.

at a distance of 25-35 m, especially if there are islands of aquatic vegetation (throw at a distance of 1-2 meters from them).

Then, having found a glue spot, he will focus on this area. Crucian carp loves a soft muddy bottom covered with grass, algae (but not hornwort), reeds or reeds, but you can also meet crucian carp on the bottom covered with shellfish. The crucian carp especially loves places on the border of aquatic vegetation and pure water, therefore, its catching is successful in the windows of algae, the main thing is that their density is not too high, and you can pull out the feeder without cutting off the feeder equipment for catching crucian carp. In summer, crucian carp bites well in cloudy and windy weather. On rivers and reservoirs, you need to look for it on the lower edge, especially if there is a flat bottom further, large individuals can be found in pits, and it can also be found in quiet backwaters, oxbows and bays overgrown with reeds and algae.

Autumn

In September, a decline in summer heat is observed, and the activity of crucian carp significantly increases, this period lasts until the end of Indian summer. At this time, crucian carp can be active throughout the day, besides, its biting is activated on shallow water bodies, where, during the August sun, it ignored our baits. With the onset of autumn cold weather and a gradual decrease in temperature, its activity also decreases, now the most favorable time for fishing will be the time when there is warm sunny weather for several days. In October, it is necessary to look for crucian carp near pits and channels at a depth of 3-5 m, while leaving fishing in ponds and bays and focusing on rivers and reservoirs. In November, on the eve of winter cold, crucian carp stays in wintering pits and bites very rarely. Now, before preparing feeder tackle for crucian carp, you need to ask avid fishermen on which reservoirs in the area, it is still active.

Nozzles

Whatever feeder equipment you use for catching crucian carp, you cannot do without a properly selected nozzle. Crucian carp is very capricious and is often caught on a maggot in one body of water, and if you give it a worm, he will not pay attention to it, and vice versa, will be caught on a worm, and not pay attention to maggot. On an unknown reservoir, before starting fishing, ask the watchman what kind of bait the carp is caught here.

Experienced anglers always take with them several types of baits of animal and plant origin for crucian fishing. In preference, worm, maggot, bloodworm, from vegetable: corn, wheat, barley and garlic-flavored bread. In early spring and autumn, by cold water(temperature below + 10-15 ˚С) in crucian carp, preference for baits of animal origin. In summer, it is well caught on both vegetable and animal baits, often a sandwich is used to activate the bite, several different baits on one hook, for example: semolina and bloodworms, maggots and corn, worms and bread. And remember, if the crucian carp does not bite on the bait of your choice for a long time, you need to change it to another one.

Lure

Crucian bait are of two types:

• As a basis for bait - dry mixes (bread crumbs, breadcrumbs).
• As a base - steamed millet porridge.

The basis is 50-60 percent of the entire component of our bait. There should be a lot of it, but at the same time, the nutritional value should be minimal, so that the fish would eat it and not gorge itself. You can make bread crumbs yourself or buy them, and you can also use ground roasted seeds instead of breadcrumbs. It is useful to add finely ground biscuit, shortbread cookies to the base.

Do not forget about various nutritional supplements, crucian carp loves fishmeal, corn, barley, pea groats. Also, crucian carp is attracted by milk powder. Semolina and oatmeal (Hercules) bind the bait in addition to nutritional value, so if you are not fishing on the current, add rippers. Bran, soda, coconut flakes, various geyser additives are suitable as rippers. For the best bite, it is worth adding maggot, bloodworms, chopped worms to the bait.

It is important to take into account that groundbaits for warm and cold water (10 ˚C or less) are different. So in the summer, unless you fish in a shallow body of water, it will be difficult to overfeed the crucian carp, and there should be a lot of bait. For cold water, its amount is significantly reduced, and instead of plant nutritional supplements, only animals are used (maggot, bloodworm, worm). It is also useful to mix groundbait with soil in a ratio of 1: 2 and even 1: 3.

Before fishing in an unknown body of water, you should ask the watchmen which ones, the crucian carp is here in preference or use a store bait, good result give TRAPER, Dunaev and Sensas.

Flavors

As flavors, we can use: garlic, dill, anise, mint, chocolate, various sweet aromas (peach, banana, honey). Crucian carp reacts well to flavors prepared on the basis of aquatic vegetation: reed, egg capsule, calamus, cattail. What flavors you will use when collecting feeder equipment for crucian carp depends on the season. Sweet aromas are preferred in summer, but garlic is one of the carp's favorite scents. Also in the summer you need to constantly experiment. In spring and autumn, it is better not to use flavors, but if you do decide to use them, then opt for spicy flavors.

Groundbait on porridge

Millet is used bright yellow, odorless sweetness. Before preparing it, millet must be rinsed with water and cleaned of unnecessary components.

For feeder fishing we need 1 kg of millet. Fill the pan with water, so that there is more of it on your finger. After boiling, let it simmer for 5 minutes. Then we remove it from the stove, wrap it in a blanket and leave it overnight. At the same time, I grind half a kilogram of shortbread cookies and 250 grams of finely ground seeds.

For fishing, we take separately a bag of porridge and a bag of seeds and cookies. Mix and fill the trough on site. You can add a little honey or vanilla to this groundbait.

Homemade groundbait based on dry mixes:

Recipe 1

• Bread crumbs - 1000 grams;
• Makukha - 400 grams;
• Bran (compound feed) - 400 grams;
• Oatmeal (Hercules) - 200 grams;
• Semolina - 200 grams;
• Corn grits - 200 grams;

For best results, you can add 300 grams of purchased crucian groundbait.

Recipe 2

• Breadcrumbs - 500 grams;

As a rule, when it comes to the presentation of baits, or more precisely, about the leads made by us for bottom carp fishing, many anglers (regardless of their professional level) "In language" the same problem. That is, at some "wonderful" moment, we unexpectedly (for ourselves) realize that, after all, we do not get one hundred percent result from mating our carp rigs.

And then we justify our failures - either by an illiterate / chosen place for fishing, or by "not catchy" weather, or by fishing pressure, or by other "excuses". In general, by hook or by crook, we try to deny our helplessness in creating such a rig that is guaranteed to catch carp! And all this is happening against the background of what already exists in the world - just a huge assortment of goods for carp fishing and the widest selection of all kinds of "chips" and "novelties" for fishing.

Naturally, after carefully reading many books and articles (from eminent carp anglers), in search of the best equipment for fishing carp, we find "something"! After that, we assure ourselves that this particular rig is the best (for our situation on the lake). But then - with our own brains, we completely refute this information, after the very first carp session!

So, starting from scratch or returning to the simplest installations is the best way to master the intricacies of creating leads (for carp fishing). Only after having studied and successfully applied in practice the simplest leashes a hundred times, you will be able to understand for which situations on the pond it is necessary to tie more complex carp rigs (or use more complex leashes), and how to do it correctly! In this case, it is not necessary - even to try to jump “above the navel”.

Personally, I find that modern carp anglers are overly spoiled by an overly wide range of carp rigs. And even more precisely - a huge selection of all kinds of "small things" presented in the windows of fishing shops. For example, today you can easily find hooks - in fact, of any size and shape, or you can purchase leash materials of any structure and degree of rigidity. Moreover, there are many swivels on the shelves - with enlarged rings, models for quick change of the leash, etc. In general, today we can purchase practically everything that is necessary to create carp equipment for any situation on the pond!

However, with such a wide choice - it is very easy to make a mistake, for example, using at the same time - completely incompatible things. As a rule, after we cannot resist the temptation to "shove" somewhere a novelty, bought quite recently, after its gorgeous advertising in many magazines. I am completely sure that if all novice carp anglers during the first 2 months of fishing did not “trick”, but bought a couple of hooks (of the same variety), and also purchased only one type of leash material, they would have caught much more carp. And also normally (and much faster) they mastered all the necessary basics of carp fishing!

The most simple no / nodal "structure" of hair mounting contains practically all the mechanical principles of operation and the "detecting ability" of rigs that every carp angler needs to know!

Hair rig

What is the most important point of a hair rig? It is in attaching the nozzle to the hook in such a "cunning" way that the sting of the latter does not close, and the bait itself has the ability to move naturally and freely. When carps suck in our bait, by the way, in the same way as any other types of food, then, barely feeling the "resistance" of the sinker, they try to get rid of potentially dangerous food, i.e. actually spit it out instantly. And, just the same, exactly at this moment - the sting of the hook is "caught" in the lower lip of the fish. That is, in fact, the carp is "self / detected" - both under the weight of our sinker, and under the weight of the attachment directly below the hook, as well as due to - and "spitting out force".

If the serif was bad, it could mean that the “hair” was too short and the carp could not “suck” the bait deep enough before spitting it out sharply (and powerfully). Continuous observation of the place / position of the hook in the lip of the carp will help you to properly analyze the situation and choose the most optimal hair length. The ideal place / position for the hook in the mouth of a carp is the center of the lower lip (approximately half an inch deep). Depending on the nature of the reservoir, the features of the bottom topography, the specifics of the food base, as well as some nuances of the feeding behavior of carp (on a specific / taken lake), the length of your "hair" should be selected. That is, taking into account all these important factors.

Carp hooks

Also, it is worth noting that each rig has its own hooks. Most modern carp hooks are special models, as a rule, designed for strictly / specific situations or for any specific carp equipment. The design of making hooks for carp fishing can differ in many characteristics, the main of which is the so-called "total forend length" (the distance from the ear to the bottom point of the hook); The “width of the underwear” (ie the bottom “bend” of the hook); and the thickness of the material (from which the hook is made). Of course, thinner hooks are designed for catching "ordinary" fish in the simplest waters, and thick (and super / durable) - for fighting trophy fish, in more difficult ponds and lakes (ie, with snags, algae and other underwater obstacles).

What is the main purpose of a carp hook? In fact, it consists in the fact that exactly at the moment the fish spits out (our bait), he instantly turns his sting down and immediately dug into the lower lip. Judging by my personal practice, they perfectly unfold and reliably catch in the lip of a carp - just such hooks that have a short fore-end and more rounded shapes (the so-called "curved style" of manufacture). Personally, I would advise beginners to start their carp fishing journey with these hook models. The best option- This is a relatively new series "SSBP Armapoint" from a purely "carp" company FOX.

Leader materials

And finally the last important element to create a catchy carp rig, this is a leash, for the manufacture of which you can use leash materials produced in 3 main varieties: soft braided (without a sheath), soft braided (with a sheath / braided) and hard (nylon or fluorocarbon). Naturally, not taking into account the "sophisticated" combined manufacturing options (for more sophisticated carp anglers).

Rough enough nylon is capable of working as well as soft braid, while, in fact, in the same carp rigs. By using soft braided materials (sheathed / braided), you can always "strip" the abrasive / resistant coating, and in the end you get - a soft section that provides normal movement of the nozzle against the background of the remaining (harder) part of the entire leash. I assure you that in some situations it must be done! Since carps can feel - both the resistance of the rigid leash and the "weight" of the sinker, not yet fully "sucked" the nozzle.

Some anglers pay too little attention to leash length. And it’s in vain! Since it is this "characteristic" that greatly affects the "detecting ability" of the entire rig, in general.

Leashes that are too long will result in insufficient resistance of the “classic” lead (3 oz), thus allowing the fish to get rid of the hook without any problems. As soon as they feel the prick of the hook, the carps begin to turn their heads strongly, and this leads to the fact that the puncture site of the lip increases significantly, which is why the hook falls out. In turn, the short leash is capable of providing direct contact between the hook and the lead (with virtually instantaneous resistance of its 3 oz weight). By itself, lengthening the leash will be a rational solution only in cases where the carp very carefully take the baits, in advance "checking" its natural mobility. Thus, if your "weak" bites do not transform into confident "locomotives" for a very long time, then you should seriously think about the length of the leash. Be sure to change it and compare new result with the previous one.

In-depth study and thorough understanding - it is the BASICS of creating leashes and carp rigs (in general) that ultimately lead to the fact that the carp angler begins to BELIEVE in his tackle. And this is one of the main aspects of carp fishing! Personally, in 95% of cases, I am quite satisfied with using only 3 carp rigs: with a single bottom boilie, with a single Pop-Up and, of course, a "snowman". All these 3 rigs are knitted from identical materials and work successfully - in fact, according to the same principle.

Practical part (step by step instructions)

1) This photo shows everything you need to make 3 types of leashes.

2) Remove 5 inches of sheath (i.e. approximately 13 cm) from the hook material for a 15-16 mm bottom boil rig. For the "snowman" rig, we remove the braids a little more. At the far end of a piece of "bare" material - we tie an ordinary knot.

3) Using a special boilie needle (I personally use a FOX needle), gently push our 15mm boilie onto the “hair”.

5) At a distance of 1 inch (approximately 2.5 cm) from the boilie, tie a micro-ring ("Rig Rings Micro").

6) After that, through this ring we thread a hook (number 8). Personally, I find that the use of micro-rings gives the bait much more "freedom of action", thereby significantly improving the "catching ability" of the entire rig.

7) Directly through the eye of the hook - we pass the “free” end of the leash, so that later we can knot a “Knotless Knot” (ie, no / knot knot).

8) First, we make 6 turns around the forend of the hook, and then again we stretch the end of the leash through its eyelet.

9) And, in the end, we securely tighten our knot.

10) Using scissors (or other tools), cut a piece of heat / shrink tube (1 inch or 2.5 cm long)

11) Then, we put this piece on a leash and pull it over the resulting knot. Thanks to a piece of thermo / shrink tube - the hook (in the mouth of the carp) will unfold.

12) At the other end of the leash - we also knit a knot and tighten it securely, only this time using special device(for example, from the FOX company).

13) A few inches from the hook (on a leash) we make 3-4 turns from the “core” of the leader.

14) We stick around these turns (from the "inner part" of the leader) with soft lead (or a tungsten fishing putty).

15) This will normally push the leash to the bottom.

The presence of a feeder in the rig actually gave the name to the English bottom fishing rod, since the word “feeder” is translated as “feeder”! Therefore, it is not surprising that the effectiveness of fishing depends on the functionality of this most important component of the feeder equipment. What are the results! An improperly sized feeder can jeopardize the very ability to fish. So let's find out how to choose a feeder feeder?

Lyrical introduction

At the beginning of the development of the feeder, the author of these lines had the imprudence to trust one of the "experts" of the Kiev bazaar "Bukhara", where you can still buy anything you want in terms of fishing. So, the seller "vparil" a picker rod with all the rigging and a spring feeder, assuring that this is the best option for the Dnieper. The next day, the "spring" with bait flew into the water and immediately, carried away by the Dnieper stream, gathered the tackle of the fishermen standing downstream ... It turned out that the 30-gram feeder was completely unsuitable for the current. Therefore, the first lesson that your humble servant learned from all this: the weight of the feeder must correspond to the fishing conditions. On the river, 60 g may be enough, and sometimes it takes 150 grams. In calm water, 20 - 40 g is usually enough. It is also important that you first need to choose a rod for specific conditions, and then buy a feeder for the feeder.

Choosing a feeder for ponds without flow

There are many forms and varieties of designs that affect the efficiency of feeding groundbait, casting distance and ease of use in certain conditions. So, for calm water, the following types of feeders are best:

• "Springs" or "Spirals"- affordable and effective solutions for fishing in ponds, bays, lakes with pickers and light rods. The design is based on a spiral "body" with a central rod-tube and a sinker attached to the back. The advantages of the "springs" are the simplicity of equipment, the aerodynamics of the form, which allows you to cast far, in the quick return of feed and the sensitivity of the rig. Since the feeder is sliding, bite information is instantly transmitted to the quivertip.

• "Kegs" from a metal mesh- classic options for effective fishing in bodies of water without flow. Moreover, depending on the conditions, they can be either open (without plugs) or semi-open (removable plug on one side). They have excellent aerodynamic properties, are very convenient in terms of filling with food, hold crumbly groundbaits well, delivering them to the point of fishing. In addition, they can be used in classic feeder installations, attached to an anti-twist tube, etc.

• Round plastic models possess all functional features metal mesh feeders. In addition to everything, they are usually equipped with small longitudinal planes, therefore, during exhaustion, they quickly break away from the bottom and soar into the floor of the water, bypassing bottom obstacles in the form of vegetation, shells, stones and just various rubbish. They can be equipped with a removable plug for a longer washout of the feed.

• Method feeders- these are "nipples" and "spoons" improved, again by English sports anglers, only the bait is held not by the wire, but by the longitudinal or transverse planes. Method feeders are divided into two types: flat (flat load and transverse ribs) and triangular (longitudinal ribs). They are fed with pressed groundbait to an already fed point and look like a large lump of food that the fish starts to dig and suck until it hits a hook with an even more attractive bait.

All of the above feeders are ineffective in rivers, since the round shape will not allow you to resist the current and stay in a lured place. Method models are carried away by the current even more, eroding exposed food before they reach the bottom.

Theoretical digression

The weight of each feeder is indicated on its sinker, but how do you know how much it weighs with the bait. The most obvious, simple and accurate way would be to weigh it on an electronic canter. If there are no weights, you can use the formulas to determine the volume:

• For rectangular - L x W x H;
• For triangular - L x W x H / 2;
• For round - 3.14 x D / 2 x D / 2.

If this result is multiplied by a factor of 1.2, we get the approximate weight of the groundbait. Adding it with the weight of the load, we determine the weight of the bait and feeder fits into the test range of the feeder rod.

Feeder troughs for river fishing

The current requires from the feeder not only a heavy sinker, which it would not carry, but also a certain design and shape. Unlike models with a circular cross-section, triangular, square and rectangular feeders hold the stream perfectly. Thanks to the fine mesh baskets, the feed is gradually washed out, keeping the fish close to the rig for as long as possible.

In principle, the feeders of these forms also work in reservoirs where there is no current. But then it is necessary to select models with a large cell, so that the food dissolves more easily and better attracts fish.

For fishing in high water conditions, troughs with lugs are best suited. Sinkers of such models have large spikes at the bottom, with which they "cling" to the bottom and hold in one place.

Special purpose feeders

In addition to the classic and methodical models, there are feeders designed for specific purposes. Depending on their weight, they can be used both on current and in calm water.

• "Bullets" for over long casts - made of metal mesh or plastic. The main difference is the location of the load not along the entire length along one of the sides, but at the end of the basket. This design allows for long and ultra-long casts even against the wind.

• Feeding models- designed for feeding the fishing point and are characterized by increased feed capacity, equipped with small loads or not at all loaded. Their task is to deliver as much bait as possible to a given sector in order to attract fish as soon as possible. After setting up the bait table, you can cast the standard feeder.

• Animal Feeders Components- designed for throwing worms, maggots, bloodworms. These are closed models with small holes so that the larvae or worms can gradually leave the feeder. One end is plugged, and the other is equipped with a cover for loading live bait. Of course, you can deliver animal components to the point of catching along with bait in classic feeders, but in this case, the larvae and worms will very quickly find themselves in the water and they will either be carried away by the current, or will be eaten by a trifle. But special feeders are made in such a way that the animal components leave the feeder for a long time.

Feeder overview

The classic version of the "spring". The model is distinguished by the absence of loading and the presence of a central tube for mounting sliding equipment. Perfect for fishing in shallow waters without a current, as well as a feeding trough, since the model is able to instantly throw off the bait. Simplicity of design and high quality production guarantees the durability and efficiency of using this model.

This model is perfect for calm waters and slow flowing rivers. The advantages lie in the presence of planes that, with the first revolutions of the coil, raise the feeder into the middle and upper layers of the water. Therefore, the model is indispensable where there are a lot of shells, debris stones and other obstacles at the bottom, over which this model easily passes during the unwinding of the tackle.

The versatile model is perfect for both calm water (light weights) and for currents ( large weights). A feature of this model is a metal mesh with a large mesh for effective washing out of the bait and its rectangular cross-section, which prevents rolling on the current. The plug ensures that the feed is kept on the stream. If necessary, it can be removed to increase the intensity of feeding.

An excellent option for fishing carp with a feeder. The model has excellent flight characteristics and is intended for long-distance casts. During unwinding, it quickly breaks off the bottom and, due to its petal shape, soars above it. Therefore, it is perfect for fishing in waters with a tight, rocky or overgrown bottom. Due to the high transverse ribs, the bait is well kept in the trough.

In conclusion

By by and large, if the weight of the feeder with bait falls into the test range of the rod, then you can safely throw it without fear of breaking the blank. Whether you can fish effectively is another question. First you need to decide on the weight. You will need a feeder for at least 60 g. If it comes about a strong stream, you will have to stock up on feeders 90 g, 100 g, 120 g or more. In ponds, bays and lakes, a feeder weighing up to 40 g is sufficient. In calm waters, the shape of the feeder is not decisive. But in the river it is better to fish on a model with a rectangular or triangular cross-section. Of course, if you fish in the current and in calm water, you need to have several pieces of feeders of different designs in order to always be ready for fishing. Long-range models will not be superfluous, and feeding options will certainly come in handy in order to quickly "set the table" and start fishing. And remember, the feeder is a consumable item, so at least a few should be in your fishing bag every time you go fishing.

For fishing on the current - and has its own nuances. Mastering it is not difficult, but you need to remember some points.

The main thing - the choice of distance and point for fishing, as this is a decisive factor in fishing on rivers with a fast current.

What is required to select the right point for fishing with a feeder on a river? There are a number of tests that need to be done.

We will talk about them below. For tests, you can use a marker rod or a classic feeder. It is important that there is a good braid. It will accurately convey all the irregularities of the bottom.

Determine the fishing distance

Bottom irregularities are determined and localized by repeated casts.

The bottom relief is transferred to the rod, "tapping", as when fishing with a "jig". When casting the bait far enough - about 70 meters - the bottom of the river should be fairly flat and clayey. If, when pulling the lead towards him, the fisherman feels vibrations, a kind of "blows" on the rod, it means that there are stones or other obstacles on the way.

After the optimal place for fishing with a feeder on the stream is localized, the number of turns of the rod reel is counted in order to determine the casting distance.

Knowing the number of revolutions of the reel, if the tackle breaks, it will be easy to throw the feeder to the exact fishing distance. Fishing in the river should be at the border of stones and a flat place - where there is clay. If the marker weight does not stick to the bottom, then it is clay soil.

The depth of the fishing spot is another important parameter. Since it is difficult to determine the depth when pulling the sinker, then when casting at a distance, you can roughly calculate the depth by the number of turns of the rod reel until the moment it touches the bottom of the river.

Fishing technique

Feeder fishing on a river requires accurate casting and slow pulling.

Lure

For the delivery of bait, special ones are used for the flow. For bait, the simplest products from the nearest supermarket or market are used.

It is mixed in a large bowl. It is harvested at one time 3-5 kg.

Components

Rigging for the flow

A feeder on a river with a current can be equipped in different ways. For strong fish, use a line with a thickness of at least 0.14 mm. The optimal and versatile is the use of hook number 14, which in sports topics considered large but reliable.

Feeder rods for strong currents are equipped with numerous options for sinkers, feeders, line reels.

An asymmetrical loop is considered a universal installation of feeder rigs for flow.

The flat feeder with a flat feeder is beginning to be very popular in Russian reservoirs. This fishing method is applicable on bodies of water with a muddy or overgrown bottom. allows the feeder to fall clearly with the sinker down, and the feed is located upside down. The fish finds food and a bait, swallows it, displaces it and is undercut by the weight of the feeder.

Feeder rig with anti-twist

This feeder rig is used when fishing with a feeder in a river for peaceful fish, such as:

• crucian carp;
• bream;
• roach;
• Amur;
• carp;
• carp.

Symmetrical and asymmetrical flow loops

Such assemblies are used when the bait needs to be pressed to the bottom as much as possible and at the same time get a self-setting. Symmetrical and asymmetrical loops are knitted only on monofilament. There were many attempts to tie the montages on the braided line - nothing happened, they get confused.

You can fish with the main line and with the main mono line. It is allowed to knit the installation on the main line, or knit in advance and somehow fix it to the braided line. There are two ways to knit montages.

A symmetrical hinge often saves on muddy sludge.When knitting a symmetrical buttonhole, you can use a twist. But twisting is often not used. A triple straight knot is used for knitting. This is how the lead under the leash is formed. A loop is knitted at the tip of the bend so that it is all straight and not puffed up, a leash is formed under the leash. A swivel is threaded, the fishing line is folded in half and a knot is knitted - a triple straight.

All knots must be wetted to prevent the line from burning through. The protruding ends of the line must be cut flush to avoid tangling of the rig. It remains to fix the feeder and go. This rig is similar in its properties to a sliding sports rig without a retraction, with the only difference that a loop serves to limit the movement of the feeder.

An asymmetric loop for mounting feeder equipment for fishing on the current is made directly at the fishing site. A small loop is knitted where the swivel with a leash will be attached. Then twisting is done, so, let's say, "anti-twist", about 20 turns of the "pigtail", so that the leash does not get confused by the feeder and everything that is higher. The loop is made with a length of 15 centimeters, or maybe 12, then the loop is knitted, the "pigtail" is fixed.

You will need a bead as a buffer so that it does not break the loop, and a swivel to which the feeder will be attached. The main line is shifted by 1 centimeter, so that there is free movement of the feeder, and a loop is made. The loop should be more voluminous so as not to get tangled. At this, the installation is ready, it remains to put the feeder.

This is the perfect fit for the flow. In both cases of symmetrical and asymmetrical installation, a swivel with a special attachment should be used for easy replacement of the feeder.

Rigging with anti-twist tubes for flow

• First of all, you need the anti-twist itself. They are different - longer and shorter. The main line is taken and threaded into the tube. At the opposite end of the tube, the line may rest against the rubber plug. It must be removed. After that, the plug is pushed through the hole on the line and returned back to the tube.
• The next step is to put a bead or stopper on the fishing line, after which a swivel is tied, preferably with a special hook for prompt replacement of the leashes. The swivel is tied behind the ear with a Clinch knot. The bead is necessary to prevent interruption of the swivel unit when the device is loaded with a feeder.
• After that, a leash 15-20 cm long is attached to the swivel, less thick than the main line. This is necessary if, when fishing with a feeder in the current, the hook will catch on an insurmountable obstacle. In this case, the leash will break, and the main line will remain unharmed.

Other

Another type of installation when fishing with a feeder on the current is a paternoster. Its advantage is simple installation and low probability of line tangling of the leash.

Paternoster is knitted with a fishing line from 0.2 to 0.35 mm. Many people practice paternoster knitting on the main line. If the main line is braided, then the paternoster is made from a separate monofilament. When making this installation, a swivel is put on the fishing line, 25-30 cm of fishing line is measured, and a paternoster loop is knitted on this segment.

The loop under the feeder can have a branch up to 15 cm, but it is usually made 5-10 cm long. On the formed branch - the antennae - a separate loop is knitted under the leash. After that, the paternoster is ready to work. It is enough to attach a feeder to the swivel carabiner, and attach a leash on the other side.

Rescue on the current

Feeder fishing in strong currents requires a more powerful rod, a heavier feeder and special fishing techniques on the river. The main way to play trophy bream, for example, is to pump it out.

This is especially true when using braided line as the main one. It is unacceptable to try to pull out the resisting big fish... The bream released at a distance to the surface is able to easily break off the hook. Having taken a gulp of air, such a fish begins to beat intensely in a panic, and interfere with its calm stretching to the shore.

To prevent this, the fish is loosened and the fish is gently pulled by the rod with the reel spool held by the finger. At the end of the pull-up with the rod, the line is selected by the reel, with a gradual lowering of the rod to the water. This is repeated several cycles - until the extraction of prey from the water.