Rollerski rollers are made, as a rule, of 2 materials: polyurethane and rubber (rubber). Polyurethane frames are harder and more wear-resistant and preferred for asphalt good quality... The rubber frames roll softer than polyurethane ones and if the asphalt is not of very good quality, then they are more suitable.

IN recent times roller skis with composite platforms appeared, which significantly absorb vibration from uneven roads, as well as roller skis with inflatable wheels for roads of any quality (off-road). But the price of such roller skis can reach ten thousand rubles, so not every athlete can afford to buy such a roller ski.

Rollerski are usually divided into two classes: roller skates and skating skates, and they, in turn, into roller skates for training and racing (speed) roller skis, although there are also combined types that combine the advantages of both classes.

Rollerski for training helps the athlete to master ski run because the wheels of these roller skis are usually made of rubber to reduce vibration and increase traction, allowing the athlete to focus on skiing technique.

Rollerski for racing (aka high-speed roller skis) allow athletes to reach high speeds, so their design assumes a rigid, straight or curved platform to increase stability, and the wheels have a larger diameter for free passage of cracks and other obstacles on the road, and a smaller width for you were fast. Wheels can be made of polyurethane to increase rolling resistance.

Model selection
On roller skates, the athlete stands on the platform several centimeters higher than on skis. therefore great importance when choosing rollers, the need to maintain balance must be given. If racing rollers are calculated on uncompromising receipt maximum speed, then for long workouts it is advisable to have rollers on which it is easier to maintain balance - this will save strength and help avoid injuries.

Model selection for classic move but
Roller skis must provide sufficient stability and stability when pushing and rolling for classic riding training. For this reason, training classic roller skis have rather long frames (70 cm or more) and wide wheels made of relatively soft rubber. This design provides a smooth ride with long rolls. The Elpex Wasa 610 and SkiSkett Bull are excellent examples of classic roller ski training.

A faster option is the classic roller skis with smaller wheels and stiffer tires. For example, Elpex Team 610 and SkiSkett Nord. These models are quite suitable for participation in competitions. For sprint races on roller skis with a classic move (at the moment such races are not common) and for competitions on tracks with steep climbs, it is recommended to use tricycle models classic roller skis such as the SkiSkett BITURBO. The three-wheel design provides high stability under strong shock. And the use of high rigidity polyurethane wheels ensures low friction.

All Classic Rollerskis are fitted with a pair of ratchet wheels. The ratchet is quite an expensive mechanism and replacing the ratchet wheels can cost more than half the cost of complete rollers. Therefore, it is recommended to choose roller skis with waterproof bearings or to install such bearings yourself.

Model selection for skating.
For the vast majority of riders, skating is the fastest possible speed. Roller skis models for racing generally have two narrow, large diameter wheels that are able to provide the best performance for skating.

For skating, it is better to choose roller skis with polyurethane wheels. Skate wheels are narrow, no more than 4 centimeters. Platform skate roller slightly shorter than for the classic stroke, about 60 cm between the axles. The most common model in Russia is Start Skating 71. which was used to carry out All-Russian competitions on roller skis. Similar in performance, the SkiSkett Fire has a wider range of delivery options - with rubber or polyurethane wheels on a metal or plastic rim.

Racing models feature narrow wheels, typically about 2 cm wide, to reduce friction on the asphalt. Diameter approx. 100 mm, maximum allowable international rules... Platform length 530 mm (again the minimum permissible international rules) to achieve the maximum cadence.

The most widely used racing model among the SkiSkett rollers is the Cobra. For them there are various options complete set, from different types of bearings to wheels with different hardness. The corresponding options are selected depending on the specific conditions of the race - the condition of the asphalt, weather conditions, etc. The Elpex Race model is widely known.

In racing models, the bindings are not installed in the center of gravity of the platform, as is the case with ski bindings. Instead, the bindings are positioned so that the roller ski's center of gravity coincides with the center of the foot. ski boot where the maximum push load is generated. Thus, the load is evenly distributed between the two wheels. The load, evenly distributed across the wheels, creates the least total resistance and provides the highest speed.

High-speed roller skis with a short platform, high wheels and an off-center mount require a special push technique. This technique is somewhat different from skiing technique. However, high speeds increase the risk of injury. For this reason, it is not recommended to buy racing roller skis for everyday training unless you are planning to compete.

Special roller skis.
Roller skating trainings are long lasting - up to 3 hours or more. In this case, the athlete may experience significant inconvenience and discomfort from vibrations coming from the wheels. For long workouts and workouts on poor quality asphalt, the Elpex F1, with large diameter soft rubber wheels, is an excellent choice. The next step in this direction is the Elpex OFF ROAD model. these roller skis allow you to train on any tough surface. Elpex OFF ROAD wheels have a diameter of over 150mm. and covered with soft monolithic rubber.

The Soviet industry at one time produced roller skis for off-road travel with inflatable wheels with a diameter of about 20 cm. These designs had enough heavy weight- about 4kg, but we drove perfectly on roads of any quality. Some Western firms produce similar models, but it is quite difficult to find them on sale.

The hobby for skiing is quite an expensive pleasure: you have to regularly invest funds in order to update your equipment. In addition, the presence of additional equipment, which makes the process of preparing skis for use faster and more convenient.

Not everyone who loves skiing has the opportunity to process them on special equipment before riding. Such a factory-made machine is quite expensive, but lubricating ski equipment with its use is much more convenient than doing it on some ordinary surface that is at hand.

Previously, they were done very simply - a board was selected according to the width of the skis, their contours were outlined on it, and then cut out. But nowadays there are drawings, using which you can make a handy machine for preparing the surface of skis for their convenient use with your own hands.

Now on the network you can find many options for drawings, according to which it will be possible to assemble such a machine with your own hands. Consider one of the simplest options, for the implementation of which practically no special materials are required - everything can be done from improvised means.

Wooden ski rack legs

This drawing involves the creation of a ski rack, which consists of two parts. Thanks to this, it can be disassembled for transportation and assembled during use.

Both parts are identical to each other in their design - a square metal pipe lies at the base, a wooden support is installed on top of it. In order for the skis to rest gently on a wooden base during processing, a strip of foam rubber is attached on top of it. In one part, you can make a clamp from a piece of leather or sturdy fabric to hold the tips of the skis as they are lubricated and ready for use. But it is not at all necessary to make such a clamp, since even without it the skis will be held securely enough.

Machine base

The wooden support is attached to the base using ordinary self-tapping screws. You just need to make sure that its head is recessed as much as possible, otherwise, this may prevent the halves of the ski preparation machine from joining together.

It should be noted that the wooden supports are made with a slight deflection, so that the ski, resting on the ends on the supports, is a little missing from the bracket.

As a base, it is best to use metal square pipes, which can be easily connected to each other with an ordinary wooden strip by inserting both sides of it into the pipes.

Ski holding bracket

A bracket is installed in the middle of this strip, to which the skis will be attached during the process of lubrication and other processing. The height of this bracket should be adjusted in height depending on the skis being processed.

To make such a brace, you can use a steel segment of a circular cross-section, while its diameter should be exactly the same as the diameter of the brace in the boots. By welding a bracket to a long bolt with a semi-automatic welding machine, you get a ski mount.

Such a bracket must be securely held in the bar, since during the skiing of the ski surface or in the process of its other preparation, the bracket will succumb to significant influences, therefore it must be firmly held in place.

To secure the ski, press its central part a little, attaching it to the bracket. Thus, the ski will be securely fixed and ready for handling.

Thus, using the simplest drawing, you can independently make a machine on which it will be convenient to handle skis and prepare them for use.

Advantages and disadvantages of the machine

Among the main advantages of such a design, it should be noted:

• the ability to disassemble the machine, which makes its transportation more convenient;
• high strength, as a result of which the machine can be subjected to considerable mechanical stress;
• productivity - the device can be easily expanded to work;
• ease of manufacture - in extreme cases, you can do without even a preliminary drawing.

The only serious drawback of such a machine is its rather large weight, especially in comparison with factory models that can be found on sale on the market. This is due to the presence of metal parts in the structure, but if important condition is the low weight of the machine, the amount of metal used in it can be minimized - only a bracket can be made metal, all other elements can be made of wood.

If, during use, the machine does not need to be transported, leaving it in one place, then the structure can not be made collapsible, using one large piece of pipe as a base. In this case, you can additionally equip the machine with a device for adjusting its length depending on the skis being processed. For more convenient use, you can equip it with folding or regular legs.

It is clear that such a simple machine in its design is not ideal, but every amateur skiing in the process of work can add any of its own components, improving it to suit your preferences. As a result, everyone will make the ski machine exactly the way it will be most convenient to use.

This article will focus on installing roller ski bindings. What set of tools do you need to have for all this action?

There is a little trick. The screw is problematic when screwing into the metal (into the roller ski platform). Lubricate it with some viscous substance (for example, I always use ski wax), and everything will go smoothly.

Without going into details, there is a general rule for installing bindings (for both classic roller skis and skates): ski mount assembly is applied to the roller skis platform flush against the rear mudguard and a mark is made to drill the screw in the front of the mounts. Next, we make marks for the screws in accordance with the holes of the fasteners (if there is a conductor, then along its holes).

Use a drill with a diameter of 4-4.5 mm.

For "SNS" type mounts (Atomic, Salomon) - The front mount screw must be 14.5cm from the front mudguard rivet.

For "NNN" type mounts (Rottefella, Fischer) - The front screw is drilled at a distance of 17 cm from the rivet of the front mudguard.

SWENOR have their own roller ski bindings installation table. From the table it can be seen that for metal platforms use a 4mm drill, for fiberglass platforms a 3.6mm drill. Depending on the roller ski model and the type of bindings, the distance is indicated from the beginning of the platform (the starting point of measurement is different for metal and fiberglass platforms) to the groove of the bindings (the place where the boot is clamped into the mount). Measure from the back of the platform!

If you have any questions, I will be happy to help!

A small guide to caring for your roller skis.

After use in wet weather, rinse clean water and apply sufficient grease to the bearings, spin the wheels so that the grease is evenly distributed, then dry. Store roller skis in a dry place, avoiding direct sunlight on the wheels. some tend to deform. Always check the integrity of the wheels, mountings, and the nut securely on the axle before exercising.

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But we haven't talked about cross-country skiing / cross-country skiing yet. Since it is still warm enough for the snow, I thought that in training, they mainly do something like general physical fitness.
But no, in the warm season trainings take place on roller skis.

Rollerski or roller skis are the same skis, only much smaller and wheels are fixed on their sides.
Previously, roller skis were really used only for training athletes in the summer, but later, in 1992, skiing turned into a separate independent sport.

So what does it take to ride roller skis? These are: special boots, roller skis directly, poles and a protective helmet.

Wheels on roller skiing are made of rubber, which wears out quickly enough with regular riding (in about a season or two). Then you have to buy a completely new design, because the most expensive are the wheels, the platform itself costs almost nothing.

On average, roller skis without shoes can be purchased from 6 to 10 thousand rubles. Medium boots will cost from 3 to 8 thousand rubles.

Skating boots are evolving very quickly. About 10 years ago, they were bulky, heavy and not very comfortable.
Now every year they are becoming lighter and more comfortable.
Now, even in the weather of minus 30 graus, such boots can be put on over one thin sock without fear that the legs will become whiter than the snow itself.

The fastening system is also constantly being improved. Now there is an inner "toe" inside the boot, which tightly wraps around and fixes the leg.
After you manage to get into the inner sock, you need to tie / fasten a large number of laces, locks and fasteners so that the leg is accurately fixed as tightly as possible.

Athletes in competitions can reach speeds of up to 100 km / h, their average speed is about 50 km / h, so protection is vital. I definitely don't plan to develop such a speed, so I decided to neglect knee pads with elbow pads, but it's absolutely impossible to ride without a helmet.
The helmet is very lightweight, made of foam, but nevertheless, it is capable of taking a blow during a fall.

Glasses are needed so that bouncing small stones or other debris do not fall into the eyes.

On the sole of the boots there are metal arcs that allow you to gain a foothold on the platform.

The ski poles are fastened to the arms with Velcro so that it is very difficult to drop them.

These skis are designed for running. skating, that is, when the legs are parted "herringbone", and not fixed straight.

Skiing skills from school physical education lessons remained a little and it was not to say to move, which would be very unusual.
At first, however, it was possible to do this only by pushing off with sticks.

The next stage is to let go of your hands and try to push off only with your feet, helping with sticks only for balance.
It was very unusual: everyone is rollerblading, and you seem to be on them, but for some reason with sticks.

It skidded a little when cornering, the balance was not immediately caught, but my coach, the president of the federation ski racing Khabarovsk Territory, by the way, Georgy Viktorovich, managed to explain and show how to move so as to be like a skier, and not like an eccentric with sticks in his hands :)

The principle of skiing is absolutely the same as in winter. I must say that the ride was really fast and quite comfortable.

Apparently I got tired of simple skiing and that's what happened ... And what, very unusual :)

Adult workouts are free every weekend at the site near ice arena"Erofei" from 10 am to 12 am.

For children, the lesson is organized by the "Leader" Children and Youth Sports School. There are several sites for training, as well as coaches around the city, so you can choose.

For all questions about skiing or roller skiing, call 91-20-91.

We hope it was interesting, watch the video review and keep an eye on where we go next time.

Host: Alexander Zaitsev

Videographer: Alexander Vyborov

Photographer: Andrey Takashima

Project manager: Polina Posvalyuk

For roller skiing, the usual ski poles... Sticks for winter and summer are the same length. Generally, roller skiers use light, hard top poles with a high carbon content. In Russia, the most popular sticks are One Way, Swix, KV +. Sometimes you can find Leki, Exel, etc. Instead of winter "paws" in the summer you need to install tips for rollers, hereinafter we will call them "pins". All ski pole manufacturers produce them.

Not all brands of pins provide good performance. Some suffer from bad plastic, which either breaks in half (and you are instantly left without a tip), or gradually deforms (and the metal tip falls out over time). Some have a soft alloy metal tip that dulls almost immediately after starting a workout. I have tried all the models that are present on Russian market, and selected only two for myself: Leki and Vauhti. They are available with bore diameters of 8 and 10 mm. For my sticks One Way (9 mm), "ten" is suitable.

How to install a pin on a stick?

I suggest step by step instructions... The whole process takes about 15 minutes.

1. Pour hot water from the tap into a small saucepan (to save time on heating it), put it on the stove. We immediately turn on the thermo-gun into the network:

A thermal gun can be bought at a hardware store (200-300 rubles). A hot melt glue stick is inserted into the gun. These rods are usually sold in kits at the same store as the gun:

It is necessary that the diameter of the hot melt glue stick matches the diameter of the hole in the hot gun. On sale, the most common diameter is 11 mm.

1. After a few minutes, the water boils, you need to lower the ends of both poles with a ski foot (or with an old pin that you want to replace with a new one) and two new pins that you want to put on. In order for the foot / pin to expand and the hot melt inside to soften, keep it in boiling water for 30-60 seconds.
2. Take one stick out of the pan and remove the foot / pin with your hands (with a glove or through a rag so as not to burn yourself). With a dry rag, wipe off excess old hot melt glue from the stick shaft. If the adhesive does not remove well, immerse the rod in boiling water again for 20 seconds, and wipe off the adhesive again with a cloth.
3. Make sure the gun is hot. This usually takes 8-10 minutes after the device is plugged into the network. To do this, pull the trigger and check that the glue has begun to squeeze out of the nozzle of the heat gun.

Important: the subsequent actions must be done very quickly, you have a few seconds of time:

1. Take an ordinary table fork and catch one pin with its tip. Pour water out of the pin. Next, take it in your hand, blow it through your mouth once strongly to remove the water droplets that are present inside the pin.
2. Apply hot melt glue to the end of the stick (1.5-2 cm) around the entire circumference. You need to apply in sufficient quantity, the excess will still be squeezed out later. It is undesirable for voids to remain inside the pin. This will impair the reliability of the rod fastening.
3. Put the pin on the rod in such a way as to at least approximately observe the centering of the pin relative to the handle of the stick. The metal tip should point with the tip forward (if we are talking about the direction of movement of the athlete with these sticks).
4. Gently, holding the pin with your hand so that it remains stationary, wipe the excess glue with your other hand with a cloth to make it aesthetically pleasing.
5. Take the stick in your hands with the tip facing you and look at the light along the stick, checking the centering of the pin relative to the stick handle. If necessary, twist the pin slightly around the axis for perfect centering.
6. Do the same with the second stick.

The above applies to sticks with a high carbon fiber content. Cheap (non-top) sticks are based on a lot of paper and the use of boiling water can render them unusable. In such a case, it is preferable to use an oven or hair dryer. In extreme cases, if there is nothing besides boiling water, you need to place a stick with a pin in a sealed plastic bag before lowering it into boiling water. But the warm-up time, for obvious reasons, will not be as short as without the package.

Alternatively, instead of a heat gun, you can use a building hair dryer, as shown in this video:

If you have a stick that is too long and you need to adjust it to your height, then you have to cut off a piece of the rod that is under the handle of the stick. Never cut off the lower part of the rod! In this case, you will have a rod of such a large diameter that not a single foot or pin will fit.

If the handle of your poles contains a cork, place them in a bag to remove the handles with boiling water. But the most effective is the use of an oven (150-200 degrees) or a hair dryer. It is very important not to melt the plastic parts of the handle (especially where the trap is inserted and secured). Therefore, take your time to increase the oven temperature. Start at 150 degrees.

Important: Before using the oven or hair dryer, be sure to remove the trap, as it contains synthetic materials that will inevitably melt! Also, do not leave a wedge-shaped plastic pin in the handle that secures the trap.

Hold the stick in your hands so that it does not touch the hot metal surfaces of the oven. The oven door will be half open. It may take a few minutes for the handle to warm up. Remove it from the oven from time to time and try to pull off the handle (of course, using a glove or rag so as not to burn yourself).

After removing the handle, cut off the extra centimeters of the stick with a "hacksaw for metal". Lightly sand the sharp edges of the rod with a sandpaper or file. Heat the handle again in the oven before placing the handle on the stick shaft. Then apply hot melt glue as described above.

Important: with extreme caution you need to work with a construction hairdryer! It produces a very high temperature and the handle is very easy to spoil (melt).

I strongly do not recommend using materials such as electrical tape or adhesive plaster to put on handles, paws, pins. Many times there have been cases when the foot / pin with such a fastener very easily slipped off the shaft during training / racing. Also, I do not recommend using glue, which later will not allow you to remove the foot / pin (epoxy, poxipol, supermoment, etc.). I know that some pole manufacturers, after complaints from cross-country skiers, began to use some serious adhesives, which made it very difficult to remove the legs. Personally, I have a negative attitude towards this. I think hot melt glue is a reliable and convenient tool. It has never let me down.

How to sharpen pins?

The pins and feet are sold unsharpened. Many athletes only think that they are sharpened. But this is not the case. They have a so-called "playground". With such a platform, traction on the asphalt will not be perfect. But if you do not need to carry out any additional manipulations with the legs for skiing, then the pins for asphalt need to be sharpened, even if they are straight from the store.

The working angle of the tip should be fairly sharp. Take a look at the picture. On it, for convenience (so as not to clutter up the picture), corners with outside tip. But we are interested in the interior corners. From a school geometry course, you should remember that the angles between two straight lines on either side are congruent. Now compare angles 1 - 3:

Angle 1 is a new tip with a platform (from the store).

Angle 2 - the tip is sharpened with a sharpener.

Angle 3 - the tip is very tight, while this angle does not allow you to reliably hook onto the asphalt at the moment of push.

Why is there no need for a site? Why do you need to grind it right away?

On this topic, controversy once flared up on the Internet. Some users believed that the site was needed. They just couldn't explain why. And it was even recommended to sharpen the tips in such a way that this area was recreated every time. The following picture shows that their position is untenable:

We will simulate the grinding of the tip on the asphalt during training and draw a line with a pink marker. Outside of this line, there will be something that grinds on the asphalt. Now let's see what area of ​​contact with the asphalt is obtained in three cases. Obviously, the largest area is in the rightmost figure. Further - on the very left (where there was a tip with a platform). The smallest area is in the central figure. This tip (of the three available) will grip the tarmac better than anyone.

Thus, the tip angle is a key factor for a reliable grip on the asphalt throughout your workout or race. To maintain this angle, you need to sharpen the pins before each workout. The main tool is a sharpener with a diamond wheel:

The working surface, literally a few mm wide, is located on the outside of the circle (at the very edge). Our industry does not produce such ready-made whetstones. But there are craftsmen who make such a useful device from some 12-volt engine removed from a car.

An additional tool is a diamond-coated file:

It is also possible to use a diamond-coated file, but I do not recommend it because, due to the small size, it is inconvenient for them to work: the file constantly jumps off the tip.

Before one workout, I use a sharpener, before one or two subsequent workouts, I just sharpen it a little with a file. Why? Because after one or two sharpening with a file, the angle of the tip is no longer optimal. It is difficult to deduce the correct angle with a file, and a sharpener copes with this easily.

You need to sharpen the tip on both sides - from the inside and from the outside (in the direction of travel). Why? Because sometimes from the accidental striking with sticks on the asphalt (at the time of setting the sticks) chips appear on the metal from the inside. The inner side must be leveled, and then the sharp corner must be re-drawn from the outside.

I do not recommend using a sharpener without diamond spraying. You will not sharpen the victorious alloy of the tip, and the tip and plastic will overheat, which will lead to damage to the pin.

And change the pins in a timely manner! Here is the extreme wear on the pins:

Treat pins like a consumable item, not something eternal. Do not try to stretch the use of one pair of pins over several seasons. I have one pair at best for 1 month. Therefore, I immediately buy several pairs before the season.

In conclusion, here is a photo of well-sharpened tips. Note that these specimens are not new and have gone through more than one sharpening: