The best ski poles for skating. Choosing cross-country skis, ski boots, ski poles, ski wax

Ski enthusiasts know that there are two types of skiing, they are classic skiing and skating. And if novice skiers skate exclusively in the classics, then those who are already familiar with skiing prefer skating. And all because such a move is more convenient, it is less expensive in terms of physical strength, and, most importantly, it is faster! But there is one essential but, and this - but - is skiing. After all, not all skis are suitable for skating. There are several reasons for this. How to choose skis for skating- this is what we will tell you today. For your convenience, we have a photo, video and a table by weight and height. So watch it all to the end. In order not to be mistaken and buy exactly those skis in which you will be comfortable and comfortable.

Features of skating skis

If you are trying to skate for the first time, you will immediately notice that it is more difficult for them to move than the classic one. And therefore, manufacturers make skis harder for skating. When the skis are stiff, it is easier to push off the snow with your feet, you pick up speed faster, and each new take off becomes easier for you. But if your skis are soft, then you will have to make great efforts to push off for skating. And all because when pushing off your feet will rest on the skis. And if they are soft, they will be pushed back and your costs will be in vain, you will still not be able to pick up speed and get tired after a few minutes.
Also, skating skis are characterized by small noses in front. They should not be crooked or high. After all, you will be riding in a skating style on a rolled track, and you will not need corners in front. Curved corners at the front are essential for classic skiing. With them, they bend the snow and it is easier for you to roll.

What materials should I choose for skating skis?

There is only one answer - plastic. The main thing in the skating course is repulsion. And the plastic allows you to get the maximum skiing off the snow at the lowest physical cost.
The plastic is durable and tough - we wrote about this above. It will not break even if bent. This material is frost-resistant and scratches on your skis will not affect your speed or overall ride.
Also, plastic skis are more durable. They are not afraid of thaws and moisture. It is easier to care for such skis and you can choose a lubricant for any weather. So if you will be assured that wooden skis are the most comfortable - do not believe it! On next year, and maybe even earlier, you will have to buy new skis.

Table - how to choose skis and poles for skating by height


Even if you do not have such a table at hand, choosing skis and poles is not difficult. The main thing to remember are two rules.
First:
Skating skis should be 10 centimeters taller than a person.
Second rule:
And the sticks should be 10 centimeters shorter than the height of the person. Ideally, sticks should be on your nose, then it will be easy and not so expensive to push off with them.
See, it's pretty simple.

How to choose the stiffness of the skis?

Everything is very simple here. When you have chosen the skis that are suitable for you in height and color, you simply put them on the floor. And then in the place where the mount will be, stand with your feet. And if the skis are pressed against the floor, but there is a distance of 3 or 4 millimeters between them and the floor, then these are the ideal skis for your weight!
If the skis are completely in contact with the floor, then they are not suitable for you. You can easily push these skis, and they will interfere with your speed development.
If the skis, on the contrary, remained in the same position, then your weight is not enough for them. On the contrary, you will not push such skis and will not be able to achieve any speeds on them due to the fact that you will invest all your efforts not in speed and repulsion, but in pushing the skis.

Video how to choose skis for skating.

From the video you will find out the opinion of the master of sports and hear a lot of advice from him. So watch carefully and remember.

For maximum comfort when skiing, it is better to choose skis and poles by height and weight.

Selection table for skis and poles for classic skiing

Skier weight Ski length Skier height Stick length
<45 170-175 150 125
45-49 175-180 155 130
50-54 180-184 160 135
55-59 185-189 165 140
60-69 190-195 170 145
70-79 195-200 175 150
79-89 200-205 180 155
90> 205 185 160
90> 205 190 165
90> 210 195 165

For beginner skiers, they are suitable with notches or kamus. They are almost maintenance-free and wider for better stability.

For experienced skiers, models with a camus or with a flat sliding surface are suitable. They are narrower, which allows for high speed, but require maintenance in order to maintain speed characteristics.

Selection table for combination skis and poles

In terms of properties, these are something between classic and skating, and allow you to ski in two ski styles. The sliding surface is smooth - it has no notches and kamus.

Selection table for skis and skating poles

For beginner skiers, models are suitable, since there is a high probability of breaking skis and poles while improving the technique of movement.

For experienced skiers, models are suitable famous brands, which have low weight and high speed qualities.

Ridge course

The skating style of skiing was invented in the early 80s, before that they moved exclusively with the classic move. The ridge course is the most fast style cross-country skiing. For skiing, you need a wide, prepared track. More suitable for active people, speed lovers.

It will take at least one season to master the skating technique.

It is necessary to prepare the body physically: when skating, all the muscles of the body are involved in the work - neck, shoulders, arms, abs, back, legs. With every kilometer you travel, your body will grow stronger. And most importantly - without strong muscles cannot be learned correct technique skating, which threatens injuries. Special attention should be given to strengthening the knees and lumbar back. And be sure to stretch all muscle groups before and after your workout.

Mastering the skating technique is not an easy matter. You need good coordination, a strong back, strong hands and legs. This will give you good rolling and high speed while riding. To develop your legs, back and coordination, skate without sticks. For the development of your arms, abs and back, ski on the track in a step-less course (double polling).

To begin with, it is worth mastering a two-step skating move. Learn to do a long ride on one ski and push correctly with your hands. Gradually move on to a skating, simultaneous one-step move.

Skating equipment

To get started, buy inexpensive, but quality skis and sticks. When buying boots, focus on comfort, not cost.

When you feel that there is not enough speed, switch to more expensive skis.

Classic move

The classic move is the very first move that was used for skiing. It is slower than the skate and not that hard to master. For skiing, you only need a ski track, which you can lay yourself in any convenient place near the house. Suitable for calm people for family vacations who want to strengthen the body and immunity.

Recommendations for those who want to ride the classic style

Mastering the technique

The classic move is mastered almost immediately, it is similar to normal walking... At first, your speed and endurance will be noticeably lower than that of experienced skiers, but over time, if you learn the technique and strengthen your muscles, you can easily ride 10-20 km without stopping at high speed.

Particular attention should be paid to strengthening the legs and the lumbar part of the back, skating with the classic move without sticks will help in this. And it is imperative that there are no injuries, before and after skiing, stretch your muscles.

Inventory

For maximum skiing comfort, you need to choose the right classic skis, especially the notched version. The difficulty is that a classic ski has 2 functions - it is good to roll forward, and not to roll back when going uphill. Each ski size has an individual stiffness that can be tested. Too soft skis will always bend - touching the notches on the snow (this reduces the speed), and too hard skis will always keep their bend - not letting the notches catch on the snow (the skis will shoot when going uphill).

If you are a beginner skier and rarely ski, buy inexpensive quality skis. If you are an experienced skier and like to ski often - buy more expensive and high quality skis of famous brands. It is better to buy boots that are comfortable for you, regardless of the price.

Skiing is the most widespread winter sport in our country. But good skating depends not only on the physical fitness of the skier, but also on the well-chosen equipment. Today we will talk about how physical parameters athlete - height and weight - affect the nuances of the choice of skis.

How to choose skis according to your height?

There are certain aspects of choosing ski lengths. They differ depending on the type of products, which can be classic, skating or walking.

  • Skis of the first category, classic, in length should exceed the height of the skier by 20-30 cm.
  • Skating models should be 10-15 cm larger than the athlete's height.
  • Deserve special attention walking(they are also combined) skis, which are very popular among fans of this winter sport. They are selected 15-20 cm longer than the growth of their owner.

Beginners who don't know how to size skis should remember that shorter skis are much easier to handle. But people with great experience skaters can afford to buy long models. Moreover, such skis provide maximum glide.

How to choose the size of skis?

To understand how to choose the size of skis, you should pay attention to a special size chart. Read it, or better, print it and take it with you to the sports store. She will tell you how to determine size for skis and buy equipment that will be comfortable to use. Only with this approach to the choice, the purchased skis will give a lot of positive emotions while skiing on winter snow-covered paths.

Human height (cm) Classic ski length (cm) Walking ski length (cm) Skating ski length (cm)
150 175 170 165
155 180 175 170
160 185 180 175
165 190 185 180
170 195 190 185
175 200 195 190
180 205 200 190-195
185 205-210 200-205 195
190 205-210 200-205 195
195 210 205 195

How to select skis by weight?

There is nothing complicated here either. All that is required is to weigh yourself and compare the result with the ski size table:

! Please note that many manufacturers have their own ski size tables for height and / or weight, which differ from those given in this article.

It is also important to remember that the weight of the athlete has a direct impact on the level of rigidity of the articles. The larger it is, the harder the skis should be. To select skis by weight, measure their level of stiffness using flex tester. The skis are installed on a special board or on a flat surface and the rigidity is measured using the device. This indicator can also be determined by squeezing a pair of skis with your hands. For more information on how to conduct a "manual" test yourself, see ours.

How to choose skis and poles according to height?

The above describes in detail how to choose the right skis for height. But when choosing equipment, it is also important to pay attention to sticks. Unlike skis, the length of the poles should be 15-20 cm less than the height of the athlete. In the event that the skier is in excellent physical form, the length of the sticks can be increased slightly. But, in any case, the minimum length of the sticks should not be below the shoulders, and the maximum - below the ear. Besides:

  • you cannot buy sticks "for growth" (especially if you are purchasing equipment for a child);
  • you should not buy sticks with miniature supports - the so-called "legs".

Now you know how to choose skis for height and weight. Arm yourself with a sizing chart and go to a sports store!

You may be interested

Skiing is one of the popular types sports, as well as a favorite hobby of many people. Someone prefers extreme driving, others are not averse to calmly ride in the park. In any case, when buying modern skis, it is important to take into account not only the riding style and terrain features, but also indicators such as the height and weight of the skier. It is difficult to make a choice today, since hundreds of models are presented in sports equipment stores, both for skating and for walking. Let's try to figure out the main indicators that you need to pay attention to when choosing skis.

Selection of skis based on the height and weight of the skier

The selection of skis for height differs depending on the type of product. It is also worth considering the length and stiffness of the ski. For example, beginner athletes are encouraged to choose shorter models. On such products, you will be able to move around with any convenient technique, but if a beginner purchases skating skis, then he will not be able to ride them in a classic style. Therefore, we will consider the most popular types of skis.

Selection of skis for classic skiing

Classic skis differ in their configuration, since they must always be parallel to each other when moving along the track. As a rule, such products are longer than ridge ones, but the maximum value does not exceed 207 cm.In addition, they are distinguished by their softness, this is necessary so that when pushing off the ski block touches the snow surface, in this case, during the push, the products will not slip back. But such skis should not be too soft either, otherwise during sliding, the block will bend too much, going deep into the snow, as a result of which they will slow down.

When choosing the stiffness of a suitable ski model, weather conditions should be taken into account. For example, for a cold winter, soft and elastic products are more suitable, since in this case you do not need to apply a large layer of ointment. But for freezing temperatures, it is better to choose rigid models.

Professional skiers differ in their riding style, as a rule, they push off the surface of the snow with a powerful push, so for the "pros" rigid products are suitable, on which athletes can do long-term skiing.

If you choose classic skis, then their length should exceed your height by 25-30 cm. Sticks, in contrast to Nordic walking poles on the contrary, it is better to pick up 25-30 cm less in height, although if you have an excellent physical fitness and strive to increase the load, then you can purchase longer products.

To choose skis by weight, you need to check how stiffness suits your body weight. All you need to do is use a flex tester. First you need to find the center of gravity of each ski and put a mark on this place with a marker. After that, you need to put the products on a flat surface and stand on them. In this case, the toes of the boots should be located on the line marked earlier. Try to relax and distribute your weight evenly across both legs. Ask someone to take a thin sheet of paper or a stylus no more than 0.2 mm thick and run it under one ski. The tester should move freely 20 to 40 cm forward and backward from the marked center of gravity. If a sheet of paper or a dipstick does not go beyond 5 cm, you need to use softer skis.

There is a similar method for determining the rigidity of products. To do this, all the weight must be moved by one leg. Further, you also need to use paper or a probe, which should move freely 10-15 cm from the control point.

Selection of skis for skating

Skating skis are so called because during movement the skier uses the same running technique as the skater. To do this, he pushes off the snow surface. inside skis, transferring at this moment all your weight on sliding ski and vice versa. It is worth noting that the skating course is more suitable for those who have well trained arms and body.

In terms of their length, skis of this type are shorter than the classic ones, their maximum length is no more than 192 cm. During skating, the athlete should not contact the middle part of the ski with the surface. Therefore, such models should be tougher than the classic ones. And if you plan to use them only for walking, then it is better to choose more elastic and softer products on which it is easier to maintain balance.

In order to decide how to choose skis for skating by height, it is enough to remember the following: such models should be 15 cm larger than the athlete's height, and the sticks should be 15 cm smaller. Thus, the size of the skis for height will be optimal.

In order to determine the weight, on skating skis it is also necessary to determine the center of gravity, put a mark on it and stand on the products, distributing the weight. In this case, the probe or paper should move freely 40 cm to the nose of the products and 10 cm from the heel of the boot to the back of the skis. If you got on one ski, then 10 cm must be subtracted from these values.

Selection of combined skis

This type of ski can be used for both skating and classic skiing. The maximum length of the combined models is 200 cm. But to use different riding styles, it is better to choose skis no longer than 192 cm, in this case, during the skating course, the "heels" will not touch each other. The design of the Combi skis is more reminiscent of classic models, but their length should be determined a little differently. Combined skis should be 20 cm larger than the height of the skier, well, as usual, it is better to choose sticks 20 cm shorter, unless you plan to train with increased loads.

The selection of skis by height and weight, the table of indicators of which is presented below, does not take much time. Most importantly, do not forget to take into account other characteristics. If we talk about children's mini-skis, then there is another story, which we will consider in more detail.

Skier height, cm Length of walking (combined) skis, cm
190 205-210
185 205-210
180 200-205
175 195-200
170 190-195
165 185-190
160 180-185
155 175-180
150 170-175
145 160-170
140 150-160
130 140-150
120 130-140
110 120-130

Selection of children's skis

When choosing sports equipment for young skiers, it is necessary first of all to assess the level of the child's preparation for such training. For children, it is better to choose products that do not develop high speed, controllable and reliable. If we talk about growth, then:

  • Skis for children 3 years old should be 100 cm long, provided that the baby's height is also 1 m.If less, then it is accordingly better to choose a shorter model;
  • Children's skis from 4 years old should be no more than 110 cm long, with the same height;
  • It is better to buy children's skis from 5 years old with a length of 120 cm, while the child's height should be about 115 cm.

The rest of the indicators (for children from 6 to 11 years old) can be found in the table.

Child's height, (cm) Size of skis, (cm) Approximate age, years
120 130 6
125 140 7
130 150 8
135 150/160 9
140 165 10
145 170 11

As with the choice of adult skis, when purchasing products for a child, it is necessary to take into account its weight. The shortest skis, 70 cm long, are ideal for children up to 20 kg. Further, the separation takes place as follows:

  • If the baby's weight is 20-32 kg, then choose models with a length of 90 cm;
  • For children weighing 32-42 kg, products with a length of 100 cm are more suitable;
  • If your child weighs more than 41 kg, then when choosing skis, you need to build on growth young skier(in this case, the skis should reach the nose).

The choice of children's skis based on the height and weight of the child is very important, since only with the right ratio of these indicators will children be able to train correctly. If your child has not yet practiced winter riding, then choose skis for him that will reach his chin, that is, shorter models.

In custody

When choosing skis, also consider the manufacturer of the sports equipment. Cheap counterparts will have the worst grip on snow, so it is better to give preference to companies that have proven themselves in this industry. Before buying, it is better to try a ride on the model you like, since everything in this matter is very individual and depends on your weight, height, level of fitness and physical activity.

If you are on the piste for the first time, or how to spend a minimum of money and get the most out of your skiing.

Introductory part. Who is this article for. What this article is for.

There are cross-country skiing conferences on the internet. From time to time, people who come to these conferences, mostly beginners in skiing, ask me questions about the choice of equipment. Over time, answers have accumulated that I wanted to somehow formalize.

This article should answer the main questions that arise for a person who decides to buy skis for himself and his family, and does not have much skiing experience, with the exception of skiing in physical education classes at school. As a rule, after that, a lot of time passes, inventory, technologies, lubricants change, and a person ceases to navigate in this modern abundance. Unfortunately, the stores do not always have qualified sellers who are able to thoroughly answer the questions that arise. As one of those whom I helped with advice wrote, "I was in the AAA store yesterday. Not a single question was answered. They have no catalog and no consultants." or "Was in the BBB store in the summer. Hour" tortured "the seller. I didn’t know anything except the price." In addition, one of the tasks of sellers, no matter what they say, is to "promote" the buyer to buy more expensive inventory, it sits in the subconscious of even the most conscientious sellers. Therefore, when you come to buy, you must clearly know what you need.

I will try to tell you how to spend a minimum of money and at the same time get the most out of skiing for myself and my family.

Ski selection

And yet plastic ...

First, a lyrical digression about wooden skis. Skis with a plastic sliding surface are mainly sold now (although wood continues to be used in the construction of the ski). A person who has skied on wooden skis, when switching to plastic skis, is usually faced with a very unpleasant phenomenon - a strong recoil, which turns skiing from pleasure into real torment. A person is perplexed - I would have gone N kilometers long ago on pieces of wood, but here I have to barely move my legs, and why did I buy this plastic. It is especially offensive if such a person buys plastic skis not for himself, but for his child, turning physical education lessons for him into a humiliating crawl, forever instilling an aversion to skiing. What's the matter? The fact is that plastic skis are much more slippery than wooden ones. Firstly, when rubbing against snow, the wood gets pretty ruffled, which practically does not happen with plastic, and then remember how you used to smear wooden skis with a HOLDING ointment along the entire length, only a slightly warmer ointment was sometimes added under the block. These two factors ensured that there was no tangible return. Now, when buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be smeared, or they put an ointment under the block that matches the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as they used to smear wooden ones. So, recoil on plastic skiing can be avoided, but we will talk more about this in the section on lubrication. And in terms of sliding properties, plastic is much better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if on wooden skis it is not worth trying to go into freezing temperatures, then on plastic your season can become much longer. So don't be afraid to buy plastic skis.

Start with the classics

When choosing skis, a lot depends on what level you are skiing at, and what style you are going to mainly run, classic or skate. Unfortunately, different styles require different inventory. There are so-called "universal" skis, but if you choose their length and stiffness optimal for a classic ride, then skating on them will be, let's say, uncomfortable. In addition, the question of changing the lubrication system will arise - in the classic case, the block is smeared with holding ointments, and in order for the ointment to last longer, the block is usually sanded. Ridge skates require a smooth sliding surface along the entire length, and are completely lubricated with sliding lubricants (paraffins). And with the classic ones, it is contraindicated to lubricate the block with paraffin. If you then apply a holding ointment on this paraffin (or even its remnants), then it will disappear very quickly. In general, do not combine the incompatible. (But at the same time, do not shy away from the word "universal" - these are completely normal skis, just select the length and stiffness according to the style of skiing).

Therefore, if there is a desire to try both styles and the funds allow, it is better to take two sets, and if they do not allow, then stop at the classics. The ridge requires wide prepared runs, and there are not many of them. And people build a ski track for the classics in any forest or park. That is, there are many times more places for skiing. Also, keep in mind that prepared skating tracks are most often laid on difficult terrain with large ups and downs - along hills and ravines, and are designed for trained athletes. It is not easy for a beginner to overcome such a route, you can "get up" after the second or third ascent. And you can't drag your family along such a route with you. (If there is a good (and easy) skating track near you, you are in luck. In that case, the skating style is definitely worth a try.)

What skis should a beginner choose?

First, about the prices. Racing skis at the top of the lineup of renowned brands such as Fischer, Atomic, Madschus, Rossignol, etc. usually cost between $ 200 and $ 350. Inexpensive domestic ones such as STC, Karelia (Sorsu) can cost less than $ 35. Mass (amateur) models of famous brands cost in the region of $ 70-100. If you are a beginner, take our skis, unless, of course, you are concerned about your "image". You can keep within 30-35 dollars with quite decent quality. And when you gain experience and sports training, then you yourself will understand what you need and where to go. An exception is if you have heavy weight, say, over 70 kg. The main trouble with inexpensive skis is that it is very difficult to find among them suitable for your weight. Here you will have to move to a different price range and choose mass models of well-known brands. We will return to this issue below.

How do branded skis differ from those made here, in Russia? The quality of the top models of famous brands, of course, is still unattainable for our manufacturer. Designed for high-class competitive skiers, these skis are manufactured in special workshops, usually in the countries where the company is located. The design of such skis is quite complex and is simulated on a computer. Before launching into production, new developments are thoroughly tested by qualified athletes. In the manufacture, expensive materials are used, which often come from the aerospace industries. The production culture at such factories is very high, all skis are extensively tested on special computerized stands. All this together makes it possible to produce top-class skis. You can learn more about the production of skis by reading the magazine "Skiing" No. 17, 10 and other issues. However, the bulk of the money manufacturers make is from mass-market skiing, which requires much more than elite skiers. And here the situation is completely different. Let's give an analogy with computer technology. It is no secret that components for mass production of even such well-known companies as IBM, Hewlett-Packard and others are mostly manufactured in Southeast Asia, for example, in Taiwan. The story is similar with mass skiing. It is more profitable for brand owners to place orders for production where it is cheaper, and to develop skis and produce top models themselves. Accordingly, there are huge factories that produce skis of different brands, including those under their own brand. There are such factories in the Czech Republic, Estonia, Ukraine (Mukachevo, owned by Fischer), and we have an STC factory in Russia. The latter, for example, produces skis for Madshus, Karhu, Peltonen. So most of the cheap skis of these brands in our country are made in Russia, as well as inexpensive ski poles Madshus and Karhu. And their own skis and poles under the STC brand differ from them mainly appearance and at a lower cost.

Now more about the difference between professional racing skis and mass skis designed for amateurs. The high cost of technologies and materials used in racing skis is dictated by the desire of manufacturers to provide the highest technical parameters that allow them to achieve victories in competitions. Often these parameters are difficult to match, such as the weight of the ski and their stiffness. This forces the use of materials with improved characteristics, but which are much more expensive - carbon fiber, honeycomb filling, expensive acrylic foam. For the sliding surface, high molecular weight polyethylene with various additives is used, obtained from the powder during sintering under pressure and at high temperatures. Such a porous plastic is harder, and is able to absorb much more paraffin, which allows the lubricant to hold on long distances... In addition, different weather conditions and piste preparation are required for skiing. different requirements... Therefore, in the world of racing skis, specialization is widespread, allowing you to achieve the best glide in certain conditions, but forcing you to have several pairs of skis. There are models specifically designed for wet and dry snow, or for hard and soft tracks, or even, like Madshus, 4 options: soft for dry and wet snow and hard for dry and wet (multiply by 2 since skis are available for skate and for the classics). In addition, designers compete in ski parameters such as torsional stiffness, course stability, vibration damping and ski handling when fast sliding on the slopes and others. An analogy with the world of automobiles is appropriate here. There are many good cars that allow you to drive quickly and comfortably on different roads in different weather. But as soon as it comes about competitions where the price of victory is very high, for example, in Formula 1, there immediately arises a need for exceptional design solutions and specialization. These are expensive materials, rubber for specific surfaces and weather conditions, precise tuning of the suspension for each track and rubber, and a lot of other technical nuances. Accordingly, racing cars and skis perform best on specially prepared tracks. As it is difficult to imagine racing on a McLaren on the roads near Moscow, you should not expect super speed from a racing ski on a broken loose track, trodden in the nearest forest. The simpler model is more appropriate here.

Recreational (mass) skis are versatile and suitable for most weather conditions. They use cheaper materials. Therefore, they are slightly heavier. For example, if the weight of a pair of racing skis is about 1 kg, then amateur skis weigh on average 1.4 - 1.5 kg. The inexpensive extruded plastic of the sliding surface absorbs less paraffin, and, accordingly, the lubricant does not last as long on the ski. But this does not really matter if your usual "norm" does not exceed 10-15 km. As it is written in Ivan Kuzmin's article "For parents of growing skiers" in LS No. 8, it is generally accepted that the weight deflection of a ski determines 60% of the sliding properties of skis, 20% are determined by the material, condition and structure of the sliding surface of the skis, and the last 20% are determined by the lubrication of the skis. Therefore, by successfully choosing skis for your weight, you will get excellent driving characteristics, even if their sliding surface is not made of the most expensive plastic.

Another argument in favor of inexpensive skis - if you mainly walk in the woods with your family, then such skis will serve you faithfully for many years. And if you want to improve as a skier, and buy yourself racing models, then these unpretentious skis will remain for you for the first and last snow, on which it is a pity to tear expensive skis.

There are skis with a notch under the shoe. They seem to hold well on soft snow. And they are attractive in that, as buyers often assume, they do not need to be smeared. (In fact, they still need to be lubricated - this is what the manufacturers recommend). But I would not recommend such, unless you really want to mess with grease at all. Why? Firstly, in terms of driving performance, ordinary ones are certainly better. And secondly, skis without a notch are more versatile. The notch will work well on a medium-soft track, but not on a rolled, hard (or ice) track and not on a loose track. Ordinary skis can be easily adapted to changing conditions by changing the holding ointment and changing the length of the lubricated block. In addition, over time, the notch will wear out and its holding properties will deteriorate. But in general, taking or not taking skis with a notch is a matter of taste.

How to choose skis

As stated above, 60% weight deflection determines the ski's ride quality. Therefore, the selection of skis for this parameter is the main thing in the selection process. The weight deflection or stiffness of individual parts of the ski along its length determines the distribution of the ski pressure on the snow under the weight of the skier. This characteristic is also called a ski plot. Here is a typical picture for classic skis(ATOMIC ARC Cap Classic K, pictures taken from www.ernordic.com):


The upper part of the figure shows the distribution of pressure on the snow with increasing load at about half the weight of the skier when the skier is riding on two skis. In the lower part, the pressure distribution during the push with one foot, when the block with the holding ointment is pressed into the snow. For skating skis, the picture will be different, since they should not have maximum pressure under the block during the push (ATOMIC ATC Racing Skate):

That is, skating skis should be tougher than classic skis for the same skier.

A good ski should bend evenly, in proportion to the effort applied. Otherwise, in some areas of the ski, excessive pressure on the snow may appear, which will lead to braking of the ski and a quick loss of lubrication in these areas. Here are pictures from an article by V. Smolyanov (Journal of Medicine No.…).

You can check the ski plot only on rather sophisticated equipment. Therefore, in the store you will have to use other techniques that indirectly determine the quality of the weight deflection of the skis.

So you've come to the store ... Suppose you've already decided on your skiing style, price range, and possibly ski models.

The procedure can be as follows:

1. Look after several pairs of skis that are suitable for you. For classic skis, the length should be + 25-30 cm for skiers, for skating skiers + 10-15 cm.

2. Check the geometry of the skis. (If they are crooked, then further procedures do not make sense, put them aside). In doing so, do not rely entirely on the reputation of a well-known brand. "Trust but verify". Look along the side of the ski from the side of the sliding surface. The ski should not be bent in the longitudinal direction (the groove should be straight), there should be no "screw" - the lines across the toe and heel of the sliding surface should be parallel.

Turn the ski sideways, look along - the sliding surface should have a uniform smooth bend without bumps, depressions or sharp bends.

3. Match your skis according to their stiffness.
For the classics, the most correct definition of stiffness is as follows: find approximately the centers of gravity for each ski (hold the ski with two fingers on the sidewalls). Lay them parallel to each other on an even floor with a sliding surface (if the store will allow you to do this, just in case, take a spread of newspapers). If skis with straight geometry, that is, the width of the ski is the same along the entire length (not side cut), and the sidewall is flat (skis are not made using CAP technology (cap)), then it is easy to check the floor - put the ski on its side, it should fit snugly against floor. Then stand on the skis with both feet so that the centers of gravity are at the beginning of the toes of the boots. And then I quote " Short course disciplines Skiing"RGAFK:" Suitable skis, taking into account the weight of the athlete, are those skis whose sliding surfaces under the cargo part (distance 3-5 cm below the heel of the boot and 10-15 cm above the mount (which means about 20 cm from the toe of the boot)) do not touch the floor when the athlete stands on them with both feet. In the case when the skier transfers body weight to one of the skis, the entire sliding surface of the ski should lie on the floor. "In practice, this is checked simply - one person stands on the skis, and the second leads a thin sheet of paper under the block. When you stand on both skis, then the places where the piece of paper stops moving determine the boundaries of the last. If you transfer the weight to one ski, then the piece of paper under the boot should not move, the ski will press it to the floor. Then transfer the weight to the second ski, it should also press the sheet to the floor. with a sheet of paper, you can do it for one person, just make sure that the weight is evenly distributed on both skis when you determine the length of the last.

If conditions do not allow using this method, then roughly the stiffness can be determined as follows: carefully fold the skis with a sliding surface towards each other and squeeze them with one hand 3 cm below the center of gravity. There should be a gap of about 1-1.5 mm between the skis (the force of the hand roughly corresponds to the weight of a person, but squeezing the skis with one hand is not very convenient). Just keep in mind that the strength of the hand does not necessarily correspond to your weight (for example, if you regularly exercise your hand with an expander).

In large stores, there are sometimes special stands for checking skis. In this case, you can ask to use such a stand, saying your weight.

The famous skier, world champion Alexander Zavyalov describes another "popular" way of determining the rigidity. The average person (not a gymnast or a weightlifter) should crush the skis with both hands until they fully touch the sliding plastic under the block. If it does not crush, then the skis are definitely tough for him.

For skating skis, the gap when compressed with one hand should be greater - 1.5 - 2 mm. And if you define it on the floor with a piece of paper, then under the boot itself, the piece of paper should move a little or be easily pulled out if you transferred the weight to one ski.


If you did not manage to pick up classic skis in terms of rigidity - those that are turned out to be soft, then you can calmly look at the skis a little longer. Generally, the longer the skis, the harder they are. For example, the Fischer company in mass models generally switched to a direct dependence of the length of the skis on the weight of the skier. Of course, such a number will not work with skating skis, and for classic skis, the length is not so critical.

Keep in mind that beginners and children can take relatively soft skis, because without good technique, they will not be able to fully push on hard skis. (This means soft within reasonable limits, that is, a little softer than the described techniques dictate, and not those that can be squeezed with two fingers.)

Then check that the skis are evenly compressed. By doing so, you indirectly check the quality of the weight deflection, which mainly determines the ski's ride quality. Squeezing the ski with both hands 3-5 cm below the center of gravity, look at the uniformity of compression - the gap above and below should decrease in proportion to the effort and evenly. Typically, the toes of skis are slightly softer than the heels, so the gap between the toes of the skis decreases faster at the beginning than between the heels, this is normal. As a result, the last gap under the block should disappear, approximately at the point of compression. In this case, the skis should fit snugly against each other throughout, there should be no gap between them. The toes of the skis should not come apart as they are compressed. In addition, each of the skis must bend equally. (It happens that the skis are not matched for stiffness and at full compression one is slightly arched and the other arched.) After flexing, you should feel that the nose and tail of the ski meet the definition of "elastic".

Here is a useful excerpt from I. Kuzmin's article "For parents of growing up skiers" in LS # 8:
Typical cases of not very good skis:

  • The ski compresses with noticeable force from the very beginning.
  • At first, the ski is compressed very easily, and then a "stop" occurs, with such a ski, with repeated frequent compression, you can hear a knock in the front of the block.
  • With strong compression by the owner, the skis touch under the shoe.
  • With strong compression, the owner leaves a gap of more than 2 mm under the block (except for skis on ice).
    (This refers to a one-handed squeeze.)

(In general, when selecting skis, it is preferable to first use hand squeeze - this way you can quickly select several suitable pairs, at the same time checking the uniformity of the compression. And then, if possible, finally select your pair with a piece of paper, or by checking them more meticulously.)

4. Check the coincidence of the centers of gravity. Determine the center of gravity of each pair of skis. Then fold the skis together, with the heels of the skis in line. The centers of gravity should ideally coincide, but the discrepancy of the order of 1-1.5 cm is not fatal. (When you install the bindings, you will have to determine the center of gravity more precisely, for example, putting the ski on back side knife or the end of a thin ruler.)

5. Check the sliding surface. It must not be concave or curved in diameter, but must be flat, with the exception of the groove.

Otherwise, the preparation of the skis will be very difficult - the iron and the scraper will not adhere to the entire surface of the ski. (Minor deviations can be corrected. To do this, the ski will need to be looped, which requires experience and a ski rack.) To check, place a flat object at the beginning, middle and end of the ski, it should fit snugly against the sliding surface.

There should be no obvious and large damage to the plastic - pits, bumps, delamination, etc. ... Minor imperfections - small scratches, burrs are not as important as the weight deflection (diagram or stiffness). You can close your eyes to this (and you can fix it). In addition, the skis should not be completely smooth. Smooth skis are less slippery. Therefore, almost all skis have a "structure" on the sliding surface - a roughness specially applied at the factory. Burrs on the edges of new skis are removed with fine sandpaper light movements from the tip to the heel of the ski. And scratches will appear in any case after the first months of riding.

6. After a pair of skis have successfully passed these checks, you can finally look at their finish.

If you, nevertheless, could not find a suitable pair in this store or among these models and brands, then take note of the following:

The STC factory uses light wood such as poplar or aspen for the production of skis, and power load are carried mainly by fiberglass and laminate plates. Therefore, the skis are generally soft. When I was picking up my 60 kg inexpensive classic training skis made by STC (under the Madshus brand), I tried more than 15 pairs, and settled on one that was 5 cm longer than necessary, which had a small plastic bubble on the toe of the ski. and several cosmetic defects. But they had the toughness that was necessary. As a result, I removed the bubble with a sandpaper, and the skis turned out to be very successful. STC also produces cheap skis under the Peltonen and Karhu brands. In addition, STC skis are also hidden behind sonorous names such as Viking, Sable, Magnum.

Karelia (Sorsu) and Tisza skis are usually stiffer, they use more wood, but they are heavier than STC products in the same price range. Among these brands, you are more likely to pick up skis if your weight is above average. The yew produced in 2001 is very cultured, but also expensive.

If the funds allow, then you can safely take the products of well-known brands - Fisher, Atomic, Madchus, Rossignol, etc. Among skis that cost $ 80-100, there is less variation in parameters and an easier choice. But all the main stages of the selection must be repeated with such skis.

Choosing ski boots

If funds permit, then take boots with Rotefell NNN or Salomon SNS soles. This is much more convenient than the old welt systems. Of course, these systems are not cheap to mount. But they are worth it. If you don't feel like your budget will allow you to spend $ 40-50 on racing bindings, then keep in mind that there are excellent walking mounts which cost $ 20-25. The price range for boots ranges from about $ 50 for touring boots to about $ 200 for racing boots. As with skiing, hiking boots are versatile and made from cheaper materials. Actually, the boots have little effect on the speed of skiing, so it is not necessary to chase the top models. But if you intend to try yourself in skating style, then take skate models with a high, rigid cuff that covers the ankle. Or combined, similar in appearance to a ridge, but with the ability to remove the plastic cuff, after which you can run classics in them. Specialized mid-range shoes will cost more than touring boots. When choosing, pay attention first of all to the comfort of the boot. Different manufacturers use different last, some may be perfect for your feet. You can take shoes of models from previous seasons - they are much cheaper with practically the same quality, except that not all sizes remain. For skiing in the forest, hiking boots are suitable, for example, Rossignol X1 - X4, or Alpina and Salomon of the same level. Only take bindings under the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). In fact, boots with such a sole have only one drawback. If you walk a lot in them on the asphalt, then the plastic of the sole on the toe of the boot is erased almost to the metal bracket, which goes into the groove of the mounts. The brace will most likely not be able to fall out - it is quite deeply embedded in the sole, but the strength characteristics of the embedding will deteriorate, and the presentation of the boots will be lost. Craftsmen use various methods of protecting expensive boots if it is not possible to put them on next to the ski track. One option is rubber overshoes worn over boots. Better galoshes with soft cloth inside. It's just that rubber leaves marks on a light-colored shoe or peels off paint. When I arrive at the place, I take off my galoshes, put them in a plastic bag so that they don't get snow packed in, and bury them in the snow under some kind of Christmas tree. I dress on the way back. The second method is described in PM No. 16. A piece of rubber tube / hose with an inner diameter approximately corresponding to the diameter of the staple and a length equal to the length of the open part of the staple is cut in a spiral and put on (screwed) onto the bracket. Before putting on the skis, the tube is removed and put in a pocket.

Choosing ski poles

Most modern poles are made from carbon fiber and fiberglass in varying proportions. 100% carbon fiber poles are light and stiff, but they cost several times more than fiberglass ones (up to $ 200). Accordingly, 100% fiberglass poles are not as stiff, they bend and break more easily, and weigh a little more. Mid-range sticks can be made from a mixture of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The higher the percentage of fiberglass, the cheaper the sticks. Fiberglass is quite suitable for children and beginners who do not have much strength and weight.

Plastic (composite) sticks sometimes break. This can happen when you fall on a stick or when leaning on a stick with all your weight and loss of balance, though not always. I had to break cheap fiberglass sticks even with a strong jolt - I didn't hit the force exactly in the axis of the stick - and that's it.

If your weight is heavy, then use more durable sticks with a higher percentage of carbon fiber. Or aluminum. They have little in common with those aluminum bendable sticks with big rings, which were produced 10-20 years ago. Modern aluminum poles look the same as composite poles.

Domestic sticks made by STC have proven themselves quite well (they are also produced as inexpensive Madshus, Karhu - different stickers, see http://stc-ski.ru/content/view/29/45/lang,ru/) and UEHK (Ural Electro Chemical Combine). For an amateur, there is also a good choice - Balakovo sticks, they are cheaper, but their quality is good (they are produced under the brand name "Volzhanka"). Decent domestic sticks cost from 300-400 rubles.

Height, cm Skate, cm Classic, cm
150 130 120
152 132 122
155 135 125
157 137 127
160 140 130
165 145 135
170 150 140
172 152 142
175 155 145
178 157 147
180 160 150
182 162 152
185 165 155
187 167 157
190 170 160
192 172 162
195 175 165

Ski lubrication

First, a couple of words for those completely ignorant of ski lubrication. Lubricants are of two main types: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For classic skiing, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with sliding lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with a holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the last is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot, placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block another 10-15 cm to the toe of the ski. (I heard how people were recommended that there was no recoil to smear back part(!!!) skis.)

Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with sliding greases.

The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you are going to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the time spent on preparing the skis is greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.

If you have read materials from Swix or other companies devoted to preparing skis, you can estimate how long it will take minimal professional training of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (applying, removing with a plastic scraper, cleaning with a brush), then applying 1-2 layers of weather wax (applying, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removing with a plastic scraper, cleaning with a brush, polishing) ... That is, for half an hour at least you will be fiddling with one pair. Plus additional "pleasures" - the smell (though not strong), scraped off paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor, the end of the carpets. One time my friend and I prepared skis at his house, rolled the carpet, then, of course, we removed everything, but some residual paraffin, apparently, remained on the floor, and the carpet began to slide wildly ... I remember the kind words of his wife ... In short, you need a place where to turn around and not bother anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the paraffin residues will be scattered throughout the apartment with their feet, especially in winter, when, due to dryness and static electricity, these residues tend to stick to everything. It happens that while you are busy with the preparation, all the desire to ride at home disappears. This is only for the "turned" fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and not bad in terms of results, which will be written about in the following sections.

In order to have an idea of ​​the process of professional preparation of skis, read A. Grushin's article "How to prepare skis?" from the magazine "Ski races" №5. Or get the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from Fischer's store.

Ski Slip Ointments

Sliding lubricants are different types... The most commonly used paraffins, and in professional sports accelerators (powders or compressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are quite expensive and consumed quickly enough. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are not worse, and often even better (except that some of them go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it makes no sense to take a lot. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather ... In professional lubrication, this is solved by rolling back paraffins, but those who like to torment themselves with a choice do not need anything.

If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then you better buy fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where the air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is usually below 50%, then you will be fine with paraffins without fluoride.

Of the inexpensive domestic paraffins, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take a set of MVIS Marathon - it will suit you perfectly. (These lubricants roll back just in the Moscow region, and they go well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and rolls well in most cases. This is a set of light-fluoride paraffins (with a low content of fluorine) for three temperature ranges. It is also worth taking pills - the MVIS accelerator. They have it for sunny weather №238 at a temperature of -9 + 5, it lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather in which he is really good, but he will go in cloudy weather, albeit worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once I smeared it in a cold way, you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but it is spent very sparingly - enough for many years.

For humid climates, fluoridated gels, pastes, sprays, or emulsions are good. Applied to a sliding surface with a cotton swab or sprayed, dried or warmed up with a hairdryer, then polished. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: a little expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.

Ski hold ointments

Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must meet two requirements. First, the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and the snow crystals enter the layer of the holding ointment, the ski "sticks" to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, which will allow the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, the pressure under the block is also present, but the ointment should allow gliding on one ski and "brake" only at the moment of push. Therefore, the selection of the optimal holding ointment that provides the best combination of grip and glide is not an easy task in professional sports. The alternation of layers of different ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques.

Lovers can smear easier. In order not to fool my head, I will give the most simple rule: for most subzero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (without fluoride) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.), you need to put an ointment, the lower temperature limit range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and hence the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take with you a plastic rubbing (so-called "cork") and a warmer ointment and colder than the one that was smeared at home. If you do not get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much, put a colder one on top, it does not hold well - a warmer one. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the pad forward to the toe of the ski.) Apply grease for a couple of minutes, and you will be happy to ride for the rest of the time. Since the snow is different everywhere, for a specific region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Feel free to experiment and you will quickly find the best option.

For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment are enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you smear at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork.

Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied with a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do this in the cold, better at home).

The klister may be needed for freezing temperatures. But it gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in the cover, when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the cover. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are upright, then it begins to slowly flow down along them. So after rolling, it is better to immediately remove the klister with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry cloth).

In freezing temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:

  • Stick up. At transition temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially when falling, snow, you may encounter "stickiness" - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.
  • Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional -2 -0, but it also happens at -25), "icing" of the ointment may begin - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a push, begin to break off, leaving the tips in the ointment, and on an ice crust appears on its surface. Most often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. It can also happen if you start skiing immediately after leaving the house, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the water temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it is too early to ski. In addition, the ointment that has not cooled down can quickly disappear. Let the skis (and ointments) cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.
  • The state of the snow in the track and outside it can be different, so the ointment, which allowed you to roll normally in the track, can greatly slow down when you leave it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in the shade, such as in a forest.

Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes

Now about the required set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or another company) manual for preparing skis, you get the impression that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all kinds of tools and materials for the skis. For professional ski training, this is really necessary. But the amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools. If you take skis with a racing base (this is sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - the paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at high temperatures, you automatically burn through the base (sliding surface), that is, melt the pores, and the paraffin stops absorbing into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears (see Steve Powin's article "Use the Iron Correctly" in LS # ...). A good ski iron can be purchased for $ 60-70.

New skis, regardless of whether you will later use hot waxing or not, it is still better to process them with an iron the first time. In extreme cases, you can do with a household iron (just don't ruin a good one, take an old one, without holes in the sole). Be careful in this case - have a large, damp cloth on hand. If suddenly the paraffin starts to smoke, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by attaching a rag to it, and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft positive paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the iron thermostat to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the tip to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski at all times. It is better to run a household iron sideways, with the wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.

  • Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin wax. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a fragment of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put a fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive up, and trim a ruler on the sandpaper so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs and irregularities. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler on the sandpaper in a semicircle (while the edges must remain sharp). Adjust these corners to the groove of your skis to remove the wax from the groove later. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the corners to different pairs. Look at the branded scrapers in the store to get an idea of ​​what you should end up with.
  • Nylon brush, used to remove wax residues after scraping off with a scraper. If you will be using hot paraffin wax, a stiff brush is needed. For this I had to use household brushes such as "ironing" or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. "Sand is not an important substitute for oats," but you can also remove excess paraffin.
  • Rough Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove the lint from the plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (In fact, the residual fluff will come off on its own after a few months of riding.) Fibertex is not too expensive. Household abrasive plates of approximately the same appearance may contain less abrasive, and only add pile. But there are also almost complete analogs. But to buy it or not to buy it ... Probably not necessary.
  • Fiberlene (fiberlene) - non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed, you can polish the skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, with an old woolen sock.
  • Sandpaper SWIX No. 100, used for sanding the last for classic skis so that the ointment holds better. Need not. Any household skin will come off with the appropriate grain size. In general, you need to skin under the block if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice.
  • Shaving scraper Swix T-89, is used to remove lint - no need for an amateur.
  • The cycle is metal. It is unlikely that you will cycle yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski rack, in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be cycled. The cycle is only needed to remove the burnt plastic. And spoiling the ski when cycling is as easy as shelling pears - and now a wave or a scratch. Lovers don't need it.
  • Knurling is used to apply structure to a sliding surface. Lovers don't need it. The generic structure applied in the factory is sufficient.
  • Copper brush, needed to remove frost wax. If you are willing to accept the slight loss of glide by using warmer paraffin wax, then you don't need it. If you apply hard frost wax, you will have to take it. Or use a gel or accelerator on frost, applied in a very thin layer, and does not require the use of a hard brush.
  • Rinse, used to remove the holding ointment under the shoe. Also suitable for rinsing off slippery wax if you cannot use hot cleaning of skis. Desirable. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - that she just didn’t have to clean.
  • Rubbing (cork) is used to smooth out holding ointments. Plastic is better for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. It will definitely be required.

Optional ski accessories

Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be where to store the skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with the holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to clean it from clothes without solvent or remover. Good domestic covers start at 200 rubles. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It accommodates both skis and poles.

It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bindings. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski will be damaged during transportation by poles or bindings of another pair. If you walk close to the ski track, then in this case you can carry your skis without a cover. It is more difficult to get dirty on skis held together by bundles. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch.

Rags. You will need old cotton rags to handle your skis. They wipe dry the sole of the iron after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the remaining paraffin after passing it with a scraper and brushes, and so on. You can even polish the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, with a rag without pressing hard.

How to store skis

Since most models of skis, especially mass ones, use wood, you should not store your skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. A friend of mine put a ski bag on a sunny balcony for the summer. And one pair of skis "led", it's good that it was inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.

Simplified ski lubrication technology

You can read about the subtleties of applying lubricants hot (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin's article "Use the Iron Correctly" from LS No. ... In particular, he does not recommend using household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricant without an iron.

You can try this method (experimented): take a metal ladle with a lid, say, a liter. It should not be enameled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, flat bottom, preferably an aluminum one - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald. Place the lid on the ladle to avoid scalding from the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins during the initial processing of skis or when lubricating with heat and a slight minus. Typically, such paraffins have a melting point well below 100 degrees Celsius. The paraffin wax should be previously rubbed with a thick layer on a sliding surface, and the ski should lie horizontally, with a sliding surface upward, for example, on two stools.

Boiling water and a ladle that conducts heat well is enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can't put frosty paraffin in that way, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burnout of the base. Change the water as it cools. Take several slow passes from the toe to the end of the ski. But keep in mind, this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and scald. Therefore, for permanent use, it is still better to purchase a ski iron.

Another way. Paraffin can be applied with vigorous rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If there is a clear layer of old paraffin on the ski, brush it off easily with a plastic scraper and / or nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of a bar of paraffin (it is convenient to control this by looking at the glare of the ski from the window). Not even necessarily a completely continuous layer. Then take a cork trowel and rub it vigorously in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The generated heat is sufficient to partially melt the wax into the base. Then brush lightly from the tip to the heel of the ski. The time spent is minimal. There is practically no dirt, no machine is required. On ordinary snow, it will keep at least 10 km.

There is such a thing - a thermal washer from the TOKO firm - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued onto spongy rubber. This combination supposedly generates enough heat to cold apply accelerators. Imitated by a thick synthetic felt insole wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying cold paraffins.

What ski ointments to buy for preparing skis

Depending on your fitness level and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lubricant that are sufficient for riding.

Minimum.


This set is quite enough for you for comfortable walks in the forest on plastic skis without recoil and undershoot. It is not at all necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is quite enough to buy a set of holding ointments (for example, VISTI or Swix) and smear the skis only under the shoe, rubbing them with a cork so that there is no recoil. For walks, believe me, this is quite enough, the skis will slide even without paraffin.

Here's what is included in the required minimum kit:

3 - 4 jars (briquette) holding ointment covering a temperature range of 0 to -15 degrees (adjust according to region) and one cork or synthetic rub.


Ointments and rubbing will cost you 100 - 200 rubles. If money allows, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of branded wash (about 300 rubles). However, it was written above about the scraper and its substitutes. You can do without a wash. As without it at all, that is, remove the old ointment with a scraper, and replacing it with a bottle of kerosene or gasoline. (To clean the skis clean, which, in general, is completely optional, you can use a piece of cotton wool dipped in gasoline. And the main "household" dignity of the wash is in the absence of a strong smell.)

Only, please, keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go on the track at a positive temperature, because with a plus you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).

Sufficient.


This kit will allow you to competently and fully take care of your skis. This set is enough for the eyes not only for comfortable riding in the forest in any weather, but also to participate in most mass ski racing type "Ski Track of Russia". It includes the same as in the minimum set, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a wash bottle, a plastic scraper, and a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more substantial amount - from 3000 rubles. It is highly desirable to add a special ski machine to this set - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very decently, but also to enjoy this process. (The machine, if desired, can be made by yourself from improvised pieces of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and a few pieces of iron and screws to secure the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by a fairly advanced and prepared skier, so that in many respects the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in "LS", from a trainer or from some other sources. However, we provide this list as well. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(This lubricant is especially effective in wet conditions). You can also buy antistatic waxes (needed to remove static stress from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdery and in the form of tablets pure fluorocarbons), knurling (for applying a structure appropriate to the weather on the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. In addition, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have different companies in their arsenal of lubricants, since ointments from often completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.

Share this