It is believed that, unlike plastic, wooden touring skis absolutely do not need any additional lubrication. They say that resin perfectly protects them from water, a paraffin primer provides the necessary sliding, and a home-made know-how - a silver ointment - protects them from under-slip. This is not entirely true. If the ski trip will take place in low temperatures and there are many prolonged climbs on the route, then the recoil of wooden skis can be a lot of hassle, exhausting the hikers and slowing down the group's speed.

So, within the framework of this article, we will talk about how to lubricate wooden skis and how this procedure is carried out. We bring to your attention instructions for lubricating wooden skis. By default, it is assumed that the skis were previously tarred and after that they stood at least a day in warmth.

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Lubricating wooden skis: applying the "base"

It is necessary to prime the ski in advance, at home. To do this, either a special paraffin is used, or a paraffin (not stearic) candle, preferably a tablet candle in a metal cup (it is also called floating), because the paraffin content in it is higher.

• Before lubricating wooden skis with ointment, rub them with paraffin harder, iron them using something hot, for example, or a spatula heated on the stove.

• Remove with a cycle (with a special scraper) not absorbed excess of melted, smeared paraffin.

• Paraffin your ski regularly, before every outing on the snow. This is a good anti-slip remedy. But it is even better to use a "self-made" silver ointment for this.

"Serebryanka" adheres well to skis without preheating (unlike paraffin). Since it is gray, you can clearly see where the skis are missed. Another advantage of the "silver" is its resistance to abrasion by snow.

Serebryanka ointment for wooden skis. Recipe.

1. Melt the paraffin wax or paraffin candle in a metal container that you won't mind throwing away (a tin can).
2. Pour in, stirring, aluminum powder (silver) in a ratio of 1: 2. Add a little bit of ski resin left over from the skis. It will soften the ointment, which is especially important if you smear it on your skis in the cold.
3. Pour the mixture into a pre-made plastic cup that is kept at boiling water temperature. After half an hour - an hour the ointment will harden.
4. Cut the cup with scissors. Ready!

When solidified, the aluminum will settle down a little and on one side the bar will turn out to be more gray. This part of it can be used in warm weather, and the reverse (with the formed recess) - during frost.

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The word "ski" is of Slavic origin, and was first mentioned in the message of the emperor Nicephorus to the Kiev prince Vladimir Monomakh at the beginning of the 12th century. Also, the chronicles of the XV-XVI centuries tell about the use of skis for military purposes.

Skis not only make it easier for the hunter to move through the snowy terrain, but also make it possible to fish in very deep snow, when all paths and roads in the taiga are closed for the "foot" fisherman.

In ancient times, a hunter who crossed someone else's path was chopped off skis - this suggests that skis were and are one of the most important types of hunter's equipment. Not only successful fishing directly depends on the quality of skis, but also health, and sometimes the very life of a hunter. What are the requirements for hunting skis now? Firstly, they must be strong, but light, and secondly, they must provide an easy climb on slopes of sufficiently steepness.

With certain skills and knowledge, you can make skis yourself. The most durable skis are made from birch and maple, less durable skis are made from spruce. Birch logs for skis are best harvested in winter, when the movement of sap in the tree is suspended. The tree is chosen even, with a thin bark, without knots in the lower part of the trunk. From the felled tree, a two-meter ridge is sawn off from the butt, which is split or sawed into bars, parallel to the escape of the trunk and the direction of the wood grain. After that, the blocks are cut, resulting in boards with a thickness of 3.5-4 cm. The outer side of the board facing the bark is always used for the lower sliding surface of the skis, and the butt part is used for bending the socks. After at least a month of drying, the board is shaped into a ski, then the nose of the ski is steamed in boiling water for half an hour, while it must be borne in mind that insufficient softening of the wood can lead to a break in the sock when it is bent, and excessive steaming leads to the formation of folds on the inner surface wear or cracking. The bend of the ski toe is made on a wooden, home-made template, and the curvature of it should be made somewhat steeper than the desired bend of the ski toe, since they are removed from the template after a week of drying by ten millimeters. Before removing the skis from the template, the lower part of the bend is “fried” over coals for better fixation. After all this, the ski blanks are processed in accordance with required dimensions, which should correspond to the weight of the hunter, but in any case, the height of the skis should not exceed the height of the owner. With loose snow, one kilogram of the hunter's weight should account for about fifty square meters. centimeters of support, based on this it turns out that with a hunter weighing 70 kg, the ski support area should be equal to 3,500 square meters. cm, which is achieved by the following dimensions: the length of the skis is 160 cm, the width is 22 cm. Holes are drilled in the toes of the skis for towing. Finished skis must be impregnated with heated tree resin diluted with turpentine and tar.

Hunting skis are of three types: golitsy, camus and combined. Golitsy - skis not lined with camus. Before going hunting sliding surface The loins must be treated with a specially prepared ointment, for example, consisting of molten wax (three parts) and one part of stearin and fish oil. It is better to prepare special ointments designed for certain temperature conditions. The ointment used in a thaw or in a slight frost (up to -10 ° C) consists of three parts of paraffin, two parts of brown wax and a small amount of tar. A frozen piece of such a mixture is rubbed on the heated lower surface of the ski, then rubbed to a shine with a cloth. At lower temperatures, an ointment is used consisting of three parts of wax, one part of stearin, one part of blubber (or fish oil) with the addition of a small amount of tar and rosin. In very severe frosts (below -30 ° C), it is good to lubricate skis with commercial tar. The main drawback of the hooders is the difficult climb uphill. The well-known methods - climbing "herringbone" or "ladder" - are impossible in the dense taiga. To overcome a steep ascent, you have to make large zigzags, which take a lot of time and effort. All this can be avoided by equipping the golits with a simple device - brake plates. To do this, a plate is cut out of three-millimeter aluminum across the width of the ski and 15 cm long.One end of it (persistent) is made rounded, the second is bent into a tube into which a thick, preferably stainless, wire is inserted, its ends are bent in the form of a clip with loops at the ends , which are fixed on the heel of the ski with an aluminum plate 4 cm long. Clamps are installed on the heels of the skis 16 cm from the edge, fixing the thrust plates when driving on flat terrain. When overcoming uphills, the plates are removed from their fixation and freely stretch along the track, without interfering with forward movement, but as soon as the skis have gone backwards, they rest against the snow with their lower end and hold the hunter in place.

The second device that eliminates the lack of hobbies is a brush made of coarse hair (bristles), for which the ski itself serves as a block. The brush is placed in front of and behind the support platform. The hair tufts of the brush are placed in relation to the sliding surface of the ski, to its heel at an angle of 45 °. For the manufacture of brushes on the lower surface of the skis, a breakdown of the holes for them is performed. Holes that are best pierced with an awl are staggered. They should be tapered with a diameter of 2 mm on the upper surface and 4 mm on the bottom. To make it easier to work, the holes can be first drilled with a 2 mm drill, and then, to give them a taper, processed with an awl made of 4 mm wire. To ensure the same slope of the holes, a template must be made.

To prevent the tufts of hair from bending very steeply, a recess is made in front of each hole in the back along the course of the ski. After all the holes are ready, they need to be deburred. Next, we proceed to the manufacture of brushes, for the device of which 7 cm bristles are harvested. Fishing line with a section of 1 mm with the help of a nail, we fix one end on the upper surface of the ski at the front extreme hole, then we push the line itself in the form of a loop from top to bottom and put a bunch of bristles into this loop. The intended bend of the bristles on the loop is liberally lubricated with glue, best of all with epoxy, after which the free end of the line is pulled upwards, while the bunch of bristles fits tightly into the tapered hole. Then the line is threaded into the next hole and the whole operation is repeated again, and so on until the end, after which the second end of the line is fixed in the same way as the first. After the necessary drying, the hair on the brush is trimmed in a plane parallel to the plane of the ski, leaving hair tufts no more than 15 mm. Puncture points on the upper surface of the skis are covered with colorless varnish. If the skis converted in this way do not keep you on the slope, then either the slope is very steep, or the weight of the skier is heavy, and it is just worth adding a few rows of beams. Camus skis are devoid of the drawbacks of hooders. They provide fast movement and stability on deep loose snow and the ability to climb uphill at a normal pace. Kamus is the hard-haired part of the skin, removed from the lower part of the legs of an elk, deer, or horse. According to most hunters, the horse is considered the best kamus, it is also called the most popular. Elk kamus is considered the most durable, and the softest, non-squeaking kamus of reindeer. Roe deer, musk deer, and maral kamus are also used. In coastal areas, seal skins are often used for these purposes. The camus is selected so that there is as little "transverse" hair as possible. To lighten the weight, the kamus is fleshed to an extremely small thickness, after which it is sewn into one long strip with the pile directed in one direction. When installing the camus on the skis, it is necessary to follow the general direction of the hairline, it is necessary that in the middle of the camus the hair lies parallel to the edges of the ski, otherwise it will go to the side when moving, in other words, "mow". Fastening the camus on the skis, it is either nailed or sewn on, and, finally, it can be put on glue.

The hunters have no unanimous opinion on this matter. The kamus is nailed, starting from the toes of the skis, first along the "axis" with studs with a wide head, maintaining a distance of 5 cm between them. In the places where the kamus joins, nails are nailed more often, and the sides of the kamus are nailed in the same way. If some nails have gone through the ski, it's okay, bent towards the heel of the ski, they hold the camus more reliably.

You can sew a kamus with a varied dratva. For strength, the edge of the kamus is swept with a vein. Before installing, the kamus must be soaked in warm water. Then, every 10 cm (on the toe of the ski every 5 cm), two holes with a diameter in the thickness of the dratva are drilled or pierced: one is 10 mm away from the edge of the bast, the second is 18 mm. Through these holes, they pull dratva, which is used to attract and tie the kamus to the ski. The free end of the dratva, overcasting the edge of the camus, goes to the next pair of holes, and the whole operation is repeated around the entire perimeter of the ski, starting from its toe. With this method of fastening the camus, it can be quickly replaced, when it becomes unusable, it wipes out. Without spoiling the skis, this is difficult to do if the camus is nailed down with small nails.

Most hunters find glue-on skis to bend stronger because all the power is in the ceilings and glue. Before gluing the camus, the ski is covered twice with glue. After drying, a third layer of glue is applied and the wet camus is pulled over the ski, after which it must be rolled with a roller in the direction of the hair until excess glue comes out and the camus is completely flattened. Then the ski is wrapped with a bandage or twine so that the camus on the sides sticks well and does not warp. After the necessary drying, the bandage (twine) is removed, the excess kamus at the edges is cut off with a sharp knife. Various adhesives are used to glue the camus. This is both BF and epoxy-based glue, but the most preferable is wood glue with a small addition of acetic acid, which makes the glue waterproof. For the summer, camus skis are tied with the sliding side inward with a strut in the middle. To prevent damage to the camus by moths, it is necessary to wrap the skis in a newspaper soaked in kerosene.

The disadvantage of camus skis is that the camus gets wet and the skis become heavy, uncontrollable. Therefore, many hunters make combined skis by gluing a narrow strip of camus on the sliding surfaces of the skis, which is located in the middle along the entire sliding surface. The width of the camus strip should be at least 8 cm, which provides sufficient braking of the skis from sliding backward when going uphill. The camus tape is glued in the following way: glue is applied to the surfaces to be glued in an even layer, after which a strip of camus is placed strictly in the middle of the sliding surface of the ski with the nap to the heel and pressed firmly until the glue is completely dry. After gluing the kamus strip, excess glue along its edges must be removed. The ends of the kamus strip must be bent at the toe and heel on the upper surface of the ski and secured with glue, it is allowed to glue the kamus strip directly onto the sliding surface of the ski, but, to improve performance, it is better to place it in a specially selected groove 2 mm deep and 80 mm wide.

In all of the above options, the kamus is used both dressed and not dressed. You can make a kamus yourself. To do this, 10 liters of water are poured into a wooden container, 1 kg of table salt is poured into it and, taking special care, 200 ml of sulfuric acid is poured in, all this is thoroughly mixed. A kamus is placed in the resulting solution for three days, after which it is taken out and nailed with cloves, stretching on a board to dry, with the skin up. The kamus made in this way is not afraid of dampness. And one more thing: when working with kamus, it is necessary to correctly process it at the joints, for which, at the junction of the kamus, both ends of it are cut to "no", and the hair itself must be cut there as well.

And the last important detail is the fasteners. On the one hand, they must securely hold their feet, on the other, for example, when falling or, if necessary, quickly get off the skis, almost automatically release their legs. Mounts are installed in such a way that the heel of the ski, when moving, gives a greater draft than the toe. To do this, the center of gravity of the ski is found and a transverse line is drawn through it, then, stepping back from the toe of 40 mm, a second line is drawn parallel to the first, which will be the line of the beginning of the attachment. The support platform for the foot is best made of multi-layer plywood, in it from the bottom select the groove for the loop and glue it to the ski with waterproof glue, for greater reliability, you can also screw it on with screws. Under the foot itself, it is necessary to glue microporous rubber, which, compressing and unclenching, does not allow the snow under the foot to be compressed. In the absence of rubber, you can use a birch bark plate, and it is glued only along the edges. The straps for fastening are best made of well-smoked elk skin, it does not get wet and does not stretch, as is the case with rawhide, limp from dampness. Tarpaulin belts can also be used. There are many ways of fastening, I will give some of them.

First. The main strap passes through the toe of the shoe just behind the toes, a heel strap is attached to it, which, on the leading foot, crosses twice in the instep (double figure 8). The tension of the strap should allow you to pull the leg out from under the main harness at any time. On the second ski, the toe of the foot goes deeper under the main strap, the rear strap fits the shoe more freely and crosses once.

Second effective method fastening is that the heel strap is not attached to the main strap, but to a metal hook attached to the front of the support platform, or to the front of the ski itself. With this method of fastening, the leg gets tired and freezes less, since the main belt practically does not bear the load and does not squeeze the leg in the shoe.

Sometimes the bindings are sheathed with special stocking bags made of dense fabric, which, together with the skis, are put on the legs and tied just below the knees. With this method of fastening, the snow is not packed under the foot and does not creak, thereby ensuring a quiet ride, but there is no way to quickly get off the skis.

The simplest and at the same time reliable fastening has been known for a long time. The heel strap is completely absent here, the whole secret lies in the fact that the bosses are sewn onto the toe of the felt boot with tarred gratva (it is good to make it from the boot of another felt boot). It is enough to raise the heel of the foot higher, slip the sock of the felt boot with the lug under the main belt and that's it. When driving through deep loose snow, some hunters tie the ropes with one end to the holes in the toes of the skis, and the other under the knees, thus freeing the front halves of the skis from falling through the snow.

In this article presented to your attention, I tried to cover the rich experience of hunters in the Urals, Siberia and the Far East. I apologize in advance if this came out a little awkward. With great respect to all hunting brothers.

Leonid Mamonov,
hunting biologist

The most popular is skiing. So that during skiing there are no problems and the movement is comfortable, it is necessary to take care of the equipment in advance. There are several options for special ski lubricants that need to be selected individually.

Why lubricate your skis?

This question arises for novice skiers, since many consider this procedure unnecessary. During the ride, a frictional force is generated, which depends on the quality of the equipment and the condition of the snow. To reduce it, lubrication is carried out. There is another reason to lubricate wooden skis and equipment made from other materials, as applying the ointment prevents slipping backwards during the push. Thanks to the application of a special agent, the ski adheres well to the snow in the middle part. With continued use of lubricants, you can extend the life of your inventory.

Which skis do not need lubrication?

There are different opinions as to whether the preparation of equipment is mandatory. If we turn to the competent opinion of experts, then they, arguing about whether it is necessary to lubricate the skis, say that if you want to enjoy perfect glide, then it is recommended to carry out a simple lubrication procedure before each walk. In addition, this will allow you to keep the equipment for a long time.

How can you lubricate skis at home?

In stores and other points of sale, you can find many different products for fans. skiing... If a person does not plan to deal with it seriously, then there will be no need to spend money on expensive formulations presented in the form of aerosols or branded paraffins. For those who are interested in how to lubricate skis for better glide, there is a wide range of different ointments.

These products come in two forms: for better glide and grip. Beginner athletes can use universal kits famous brands: "Whisty", "Swix" or "Briko". All products are color coded according to the temperature at which they are to be used. If the temperature is above freezing, then liquid formulations are used. For negative values, the following classification applies:

• 0 to -2 - purple color;
• -2 to -8 - blue;
• -5 to -12 - light green;
• -10 to -25 - dark green;
• -15 to -30 - black.

When figuring out how to lubricate skis, you need to pay attention to common paraffins, which, according to their properties, are divided into options for sliding and securing. It is worth knowing how to lubricate the skis so that the snow does not stick in the absence of other means, so you can use wax and paraffin from candles, but medical is better. There is a widespread opinion among the people that soap can be used, but in reality there will be no use from it.

How to lubricate skis at home?

To take care of your own equipment, you do not need to contact a specialist, because, knowing some of the subtleties, all procedures can be carried out independently at home. For those who are interested in how to properly lubricate skis, you should know that it is important to take into account not only the material from which the equipment is made, but also the style of the intended ride.

How to lubricate plastic skis?

If such equipment has been purchased, apply the lubricant to a clean, dry surface at room temperature. Understanding that it is worth considering the basic rules:

1. When using a solid ointment, apply it in several layers, rubbing each of them. After that, leave everything to cool, and the last coat is applied outdoors.
2. It is recommended that the test be carried out after a couple of kilometers, and if necessary, the product must be changed. Those who are wondering why it is necessary to lubricate plastic skis should know that without this the glide will not be as good.
3. For classic skiing, it is customary to apply paraffin or sliding ointments, but only on the back or front, but the central area is lubricated with holding agents.
4. When using paraffin, it is applied in drops, leveling them with an iron. After that, it is cooled and removed with a scraper. At the end, they are treated with a nylon brush.
5. There is another important topic - how to lubricate plastic skis with a notch, so such equipment does not require lubrication, but over time the notch is erased and then paraffin should be applied.

How and with what to lubricate semi-plastic skis?

This type of equipment is made of wood, but a plastic plate is applied on top of the sliding surface to protect it from wear. In operation, it is the same as for products made of plastic. For those who want to know how to lubricate skis so that there is no recoil, then the recommendations described above for the plastic option should be used.

How to properly lubricate wooden skis?

In the presence of equipment made of wood, it will be impossible to do without lubrication, which is applied to a dry and clean surface. First you need to priming, for which paraffin is used and it is better to take a tablet candle. You need to rub harder, and then go over the top with a hot iron. Remove excess that has not been absorbed with cycles. This procedure should be carried out before each outing on the snow. Instructions on how to lubricate skis with wax are as follows:

1. Lay the gear down on a flat surface and clean it with a rag.
2. Hold the heated iron 2.5 cm higher from the skis and start processing from the edge. Apply a little wax to the iron itself so that it melts and starts dripping. Walk it over the entire surface.
3. At the bottom, back and forth with light pressure. The resulting layer of wax should harden, and then, using a scraper, remove it, moving from the highest point to the bottom.
4. An important step in the instructions on how to lubricate wooden skis is to brush the entire surface with a special brush, making only translational movements and pressing slightly on the tool.
5. For several hours, the skis must be taken out in the cold, and then left overnight at room temperature.

How to lubricate combination skis?

Some manufacturers have created special combination equipment that is suitable for both classic and free style. It is worth noting that you can find them on the market less and less. To choose an easy way to lubricate your skis, you need to consider which running style will be used in a particular case. The processing patterns will be described below.

How to properly lubricate cross-country skis?

For amateur skiing, you can simply use special ointments that are selected depending on the weather conditions. They should be 2-3 degrees higher than the outside temperature. Lubricate the pad area with ointment, applying 2-3 layers, rubbing each light movements... At the end, it is recommended to leave the equipment for 10-15 minutes. cool down. After riding, using a scraper and a remover, the residues of the product must be removed. The scheme of how to lubricate cross-country skis with paraffin is more complicated.

1. First, they need to be fixed on a table or machine. At the first stage, the process of "hot" cleaning is carried out.
2. With an iron heated to the minimum melting point of the paraffin, smooth out the melted lubricant. It is important to avoid delays.
3. Without allowing the paraffin to harden, clean it using a scraper and a stiff brush. The final layer should be 0.5-1 mm.
4. After that, paraffin is applied, taking into account the weather conditions. The procedure is similar to the steps described above, and after removing the remnants of the skis should cool down for half an hour.
5. Using a scraper or nylon brush, wax residues are removed, bringing the surface to a shine.

How to lubricate classic skis?

Fans of this kind of riding should use gliding and holding ointments. The former are usually applied to a sliding surface, and the latter to the last (the area in the middle, which is determined from the heel of the boot plus 15-20 cm). For those who are interested in how to lubricate skis, you should know the following information:

1. At the first stages of processing, cleaning is carried out, and then a slip ointment is applied.
2. After that, treat the block with an ointment holder, which must be selected, focusing on the temperature and humidity of the snow.
3. If it's warm, use liquid products, and if it's cold, use solid ones. In the second case, a rubbing cork is used.
4. It is important to take into account that holding and sliding ointments should not be mixed.
5. After applying the first layer, the agent must be given time to set, and only then re-lubrication is carried out.
6. The preparation is finished by polishing with a nylon brush.
7. One more important point- how to lubricate skis with paraffin, so it is applied only to the ends of the equipment.

How to lubricate skating skis?

The handling of the equipment for this type of riding is easier as only slip ointments are used. Not for professionals, one layer of ointment, selected according to the air temperature, is enough. As in the previously described processing schemes, the surface is cleaned. After that, you can proceed to the instructions on how to properly lubricate skis at home:

1. First, preheat the iron to the temperature indicated on the paraffin wax.
2. Attach the block to the surface of the iron and pass it so that the drops of paraffin are evenly distributed.
3. Then run the iron from heel to toe to completely melt the wax. The fact that everything is done correctly will be evidenced by a uniform shine.
4. An important step in the instructions on how to lubricate skis with paraffin at home is to remove the excess with a scraper after the layer has set. Move against the rolling direction. Finish the procedure with polishing.

How to lubricate alpine skis?

Before going out on the snow, it is necessary to hot treat the equipment to help fill the pores. The procedure for how to lubricate skis is similar to the options described above. First, dirt and existing irregularities are cleaned. Be sure to lubricate everything with a degreasing compound. In the next step, apply the blue ointment hot, and then, after it has set, remove the excess with a scraper. You can also use liquid ointments that are spread with a sponge.

All athletes know that sports equipment must be carefully and regularly looked after, including skis, even if they are used exclusively by amateurs for families or hiking trips through the winter forest. Every beginner skier should know how to tarry skis and learn how to do it correctly before hiking on snow-covered trails.

Ski resins, paraffin wax and ointments are applied to improve ride performance sports equipment:

1. Improve grip on snow. To check this indicator, you need to lower the oiled ski into the snow, put a little pressure on the cargo part and raise it. Good adhesion can be said when adhered snow remains on its entire surface.
2. Improve your glide with special tools that will provide excellent skiing on any kind of snow. You can check this indicator by lowering a ski with adhered snow, which was checked for grip, again on a snow-covered surface and holding it back and forth several times. There should be no snow on the slippery surface.
3. Improve the holding properties of plastic and wood products when they are so slippery that they cannot push off normally.

Resin will also protect wooden products from excessive moisture, will not allow them to be saturated with melt water, and will increase the density of wood and its resistance to external factors.

What products need to be ground

Fewer athletes are faced with the lubrication of sports equipment with resin. This is due to the fact that only wooden products need to be processed with such a tool, and they are less and less used for skiing.

Resin the wooden sports equipment at the beginning of each season, as well as before using them for the first time. Properly processed and prepared for use, new devices will last much longer than untreated ones, and during storage in the hot season, the material from which they are made will not dry out or crack.

How to tar at home?

In order for skiing to bring joy, you need to be puzzled in advance by the question of how to properly pitch wooden skis. In order not to waste time looking for workshops for working with such sports equipment, it is better to immediately use the home processing method.

It is necessary to consistently follow all the steps described in the instructions. Otherwise, the inventory will be poorly processed, and unpleasant memories will remain from the walk.

Choosing a place for the procedure

Ski ointments and resins contain harmful chemicals that will evaporate when heated. Processing is best done outdoors or at least on the balcony. If this is not possible, you need to stock up on protective gloves and a respirator.

To position the skis with the bottom surface up, you need to install two or three chairs and put the products on them so that they are level without tilting.

Choosing a tool for heat exposure

To evenly saturate the ski resin, heat the surface of each wooden ski before applying it. To do this, you can use the following tools:

• gas burner;
• industrial dryer;
• blowtorch.

Any of the listed heating tools that are available can be used.

Required inventory

To tar wood skis, you need to prepare:

• special resin (birch tar purchased from a pharmacy can be used as a lubricant);
• scraper or sandpaper, brush with brass padding;
• rags, cloths made of synthetic materials;
• remover for lubrication;
• brush;
• heating tool;
• gloves;
• spacer;
• silver or ointment for holding, primer.

Process description

The instructions for resinning wood products consist of the following steps:

1. In order for the new layer of impregnation to adhere well to the surface, you need to wash off the old grease with turpentine or a special wash. You can remove the remnants of the old coating with cycles, and then go over the surface with sandpaper.
2. Preheat the container with resin in a glass of warm water. This will make the substance liquid and better spread over the surface to be treated.
3. Laying the ski on chairs in a horizontal position, heat one third of the surface with a gas burner (or other tool), preventing the wood from charring. Apply a layer of resin to the heated part of the ski and spread it with a brush with a thin layer.
4. Heat the tarred ski until the resin begins to bubble, which should be smeared again with a brush. Then process the remaining two-thirds of the ski in the same way.
5. In order for the new grease to dry better, it is recommended to leave it for a day. Then reheat the surface and apply a second coat of resin, especially working on light areas.

Resin stains should be promptly removed with an old rag before it has had time to absorb or stain the floor.

After the procedure

If resinification is carried out before the new season, then after the treated surface has dried, a special primer and ointment must be applied to it for holding. If the weather is warm, then to prevent the adhesion of snow, you can cover the sliding surface with silver.

What you should pay attention to

If, after processing, the skis are left for storage until the next season, place them with tarred surfaces to each other in a dark, cool place. You cannot link them. For storage, special clips are used, which simultaneously function as spacers.

Attention! Before use, the equipment should not be waxed, as it will make the surface slippery, making it difficult to move uphill.

Preparing sports equipment for the skiing season is a must, even for novice athletes. Riding unprocessed items is almost impossible. Correctly carried out preparatory measures will protect the inventory from damage and rapid wear.

Ski resizing is an outdated term that is almost never used by modern ski athletes. This is because ski resin is used for wood products that are hardly used by skiers. Due to the fact that ski shops do not apply resin treatment, owners of wooden pairs need to know how to make and apply the lubricant composition. If you know it yourself, you can extend the life of the product.

Resin is needed to protect a wooden product from the damaging effects of moisture. When properly impregnated, the density of the wood increases, which increases the durability of the product.

There are several types of lubricants:

1. For better glide. On different types snow, wood products slide in different ways. To improve this indicator, you can use special ointments.
2. To hold. These impregnations are more often used for plastic skis, but can also be used for wooden ones. They are needed in cases where the skis are slippery and this makes it difficult to push off to start the movement. This gets in the way when climbing a hill.
3. For moisture protection. Such lubricants include resins and impregnations that protect wood from liquid exposure. They are required to be applied before and after each season. They are used for, tourist and classic ski couples.

Composition and manufacture of the product

You can make a composition for impregnation at home or purchase a ready-made mixture in a store. The classic mixture consists of the following components:

• pine resin;
• turpentine;
• Birch tar;
• kerosene;

Simpler options are made only from pine resin or birch tar. If you can't find these two ingredients, you can use wood stain.

What products need to be ground

Only wooden skis can and should be greased. The plastic itself is resistant to moisture. Wooden fibers gradually get wet and begin to rot, crack, and delaminate. It is necessary to saturate a ski pair not only before the start of the season, but also after its end. This is due to the fact that during storage of skis on the balcony or in the pantry, they may become unusable due to temperature changes, changes in air humidity.

Do not store wooden skis near heating elements, in direct sunlight or near open flames.

Step-by-step instructions for grinding

In order to achieve maximum efficiency from the resin of a ski pair, the processing of products must be done:

1. Prepare your work surface before applying homemade or commercial lubricant. To do this, using a cycle and turpentine, remove the old layer of impregnation and degrease the surface. Then, sand the surface of the product with fine sandpaper for better adhesion to the new impregnation.
2. The resin must be preheated to make it more liquid. Lay the ski so that it is in a horizontal position on two points of support. You can use chairs for this.
3. Imagine that the surface is divided into three zones. Use a gas burner or industrial hair dryer to heat the first part. Pour a small amount of resin over it and spread it evenly with a brush.
4. Reheat the resin-coated surface again to create bubbles. Go over it again with a brush. After that, wipe off the remaining resin from the edges of the ski and start on the second part. Once the entire surface has been treated, allow the resin to dry completely and absorb. Leave