Ski waxes (paraffins) help speed up the glide or prevent kickback while driving backwards. There are expensive and budget options on the market, but the price is not the main criterion for buying. The type of skis (wood, plastic), air temperature, snow condition are more important.

Ski ointments and paraffins

By type, the ointment can be a solid block, spray, gel, paste, or liquid. Solid formulations are applied hot. In addition to paraffin ointments, there are compositions based on microcrystallins.

A versatile ski wax suitable for large temperature ranges. Solid ointments are applied at negative temperatures, semi-solid - thaw, zero temperature, liquid ski ointments are needed when the air warms up above zero degrees. The colder it is outside, the thinner the holding ointment layer should be. In a thaw or in spring, the adhesive is applied to a small part of the sliding surface under the shoe (deflection).

Rex ski wax is used by the pros

The best solution is Swix and Briko. In second place are Toko, Ski Go, Rex. These ointments are made by Swiss, Norwegian and Finnish firms. The domestic manufacturer "Dynamo" (Ointments Visty, Marathon-XXI, Temp) is cheaper, but the technologies worked out since 1956 allow keeping the brand. Since 2002, the Russian company has updated its assortment and released ointments for high-speed running to meet the new requirements.

Russian ski ointment MARATHON-XXI

Ski wax ointments are low fluoride, high fluoride and simple. Paraffins with a high fluorine content are much more expensive, but they are needed for spring snow. The composition may contain graphite (relieves static stress) and iron oxides.

Applying ski wax

In the instructions, the process of applying ointment to skis looks complicated. Requires a ski machine, tools, skills such operations as cycling, priming, applying "weather" paraffin. Work for 30-60 minutes, and even need to ventilate from the smell.

Sometimes everything is very simple: I glued on a wax strip and removed the protective layer

Everything is easier in life. Moreover, if you just want to ride, and not drive to distillation with.

Experienced skiers first sand the block with a fine abrasive cloth. Then apply the ointment in two layers. Each layer is prepared like this:

• hard paraffin is applied using a hot iron;
• when the ointment cools down, rub it with a cork.

And sometimes you have to work with the iron!

Ski ointment should not be applied in a thick layer, otherwise lumps will appear on the surface of the ski after rubbing.

Ski wax for plastic skis

Plastic skis must be lubricated before skiing, otherwise they will "give away". Moreover, plastic requires two compounds: "slip" (usually paraffins) and "hold" (adhesion). For classic move the nose and heel of the ski are treated with a sliding ointment. The holding compound is needed so that there is no sliding back (recoil). For skating, the entire surface of plastic skis is lubricated with paraffin.

Temperature regimes of ski waxes

The color of the ointment from any manufacturer usually indicates a certain temperature regime. For example, red liquid VISTI is used at +4, and light green at -20 g.

Ski wax for wooden skis

Today wooden skis are becoming a thing of the past. Although they have an advantage: they can be driven even without lubrication. But it is still better to lubricate old skis with gliding ointment. In this case, you need to apply ski ointment to the central part of the deflection (that is, under the block). Deflection is the main sliding part of the ski. The length of the last is 50 cm from the heel of the boot in the binding towards the ski toe.

Good old VISTI has been known to skiers since 1956

You can buy an inexpensive ointment for wooden skis. For example, they are well suited for the Luch tree, MVIS. Ideally, select the composition for the temperature so that the ointment "rolls". It should be applied in a thin layer and rubbed with rubbing. "One layer is enough, but two layers are better" - this proverb of skiers also needs to be remembered.

How to wash off ski ointment

You need to remove the remnants of the ointment from the surface of the skis with a plastic scraper or a cloth with a solvent. The old ointment is removed as follows: rub the skis with a thin layer of paraffin, rub, and then wash off with a cloth soaked in solvent.

Going to ski resort taking a break or preparing for a professional competition, it is important to take care of the equipment. Indeed, the success of skiing depends on the quality of his training. The correct ski wax for plastic skis will provide high riding speed and grip on the snow, as well as prevent rapid wear.

Cross-country, hunting and skiing usually do not need lubrication as long as they are new. Experts recommend using ointments after the first riding season or as needed. When plastic skis begin to slip worse, paraffins are applied to them. They come in different consistencies - liquid, hard and soft. The longest effect is given by the hard ones, which are applied using a special tool - ironing. Good formulations able to stay on the surface at distances up to 20 km.

The choice of paraffin lubricants should be based on the temperature of the snow. All of them are conventionally divided into 3 types:

• for cold skiing on snow with temperatures below -12 degrees;
• for snow with a temperature of -12 to -2 degrees;
• warm lubricants for snow with temperatures above -2 degrees.

The composition of the products includes silicone, salts, oxidized metals, and the main component responsible for good sliding in warm weather is fluorine. Ointments with a high content of this substance are designed for mild and wet weather, with low - for frosty and dry. There are also universal paraffin compositions designed for use in a wide temperature range from 0 to -30 degrees.

Lubricant for plastic skis

For classic riding, skis are also treated with means that keep them from slipping, reducing recoil. It is recommended for beginners to select such a holding ointment, the minimum temperature for which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. Example: if it is -5 degrees outside the window, the composition -1 + 1 or -2-0 will do.

The choice of lubricants is also influenced by the relief.

If you plan to move on flat terrain, apply several layers of sliding ointments. If the route runs on hilly terrain, you will need skis that will hold well. In this case, a soft holding ointment should be placed under the cargo area.

Applying ointments - technique

The equipment must be cleaned and dried thoroughly. Otherwise, dirt particles and water droplets will clog into the micropores of the sliding layer. The lubrication is carried out at room temperature.

Instructions on how to properly smear plastic skis with paraffin:

1. If the composition is soft, spread it over the surface. Fuse hard paraffin with "droplets" from the iron onto the surface to be treated, not allowing the grease to smoke. The optimum layer thickness is from 0.3 to 1 mm.
2. The principle of applying the funds depends on the riding style. For the classics, only the toe and heel are waxed, leaving the middle part intact, for skating, the entire surface is evenly treated.
3. Leave the prepared skis in the cold for 15-20 minutes.
4. Remove all paraffin wax with a plastic scraper.
5. Brush each ski 3-4 times with a nylon brush, moving from toe to heel.
6. The heated paraffin wax will fill the pores of the plastic, creating a smooth, slippery surface. Simply remove excess wax with a brush.

The waxing cycle should be repeated several times, ideally up to 10.

When scrubbing with a brush, not only the excess surface layer is removed, but also some of the ointment that has filled the microcracks of the plastic. With multiple repetitions of waxing, the composition better "tamp" irregularities and fills them better.

In case of emergency, you can use a liquid slip ointment and apply it without an iron. This will significantly save time, although cold waxing is not as effective as hot waxing. Procedure:

1. Apply a small layer of ointment.
2. Let the skis stand for 3-5 minutes.
3. Rub the applied compound with a cork.
4. Let stand for another 10 minutes.

If the layer of grease is too large, it is worth removing the excess using a brush. Manufacturers assure that the final stripping during cold waxing is not critical. However, it is necessary to dry the inventory for at least 1 hour, preferably in natural conditions under the sun.

For skating, skis are lubricated with sliding means alone, for classic ones - also with holding ointment. Instructions:

1. Run the sandpaper over the cleaned center of the ski, slightly lifting the nap.
2. Smooth the hard ointment with an iron so that it penetrates the pores. Cool the ski, then smooth out the grease with a special plug.
3. If the snow is hard or icy, melt the soil with an iron and chill it outside. Then put the semi-solid ointment on the ground and rub the layer outside.
4. Apply the liquid ointment in droplets at intervals of 2 cm, leveling the room with a scraper.
5. If the weather is wet or the temperature is near freezing, you can lengthen the holding zone by 5 cm along the upper border and by the same amount along the lower one.

Important! Holding ointment should not be mixed with slip ointment. After applying the first layer, you need to let the skis stand for a while in the cold, only after that you can apply the second one.

Common mistakes beginners make

If, after lubrication, plastic skis slow down or slip, the reason may lie both in a poor-quality ointment and in a violation of the application technique. Common beginner mistakes:

1. Alpine skiers, succumbing to advertising, often apply cold lubricant on the slope, in between skiing. The equipment must be dried and cleaned, otherwise the pores of the plastic will remain clogged with dirt, so waxing will not bring the expected result. After the slightest contact with moisture, the lubricant will freeze. Therefore, appropriate processing is required.
2. Incorrect selection of the composition, without taking into account the current temperature and humidity. In case of changeable weather, it is better to use universal greases designed for a temperature range from 0 to -30 degrees.
3. Applying a new layer of ointment to the old one. Before waxing, it is necessary to clean the surface so that the grease freely penetrates into microcracks and fills all irregularities well.
4. Improper storage. In order for the inventory to last a long time, you need to keep it in a dry, dark and cool place. Before storing your skis for long-term storage, be sure to lubricate them - this will help protect against premature wear.

Regular ski handling is only required professional athletes... For those who ride for their own pleasure, it is enough to lubricate the equipment when there is a deterioration in sliding. Usually such a need appears once a year. When choosing ski wax, temperature and humidity should be taken into account: the colder and drier the weather, the lower the fluoride content should be.

The method of application depends on the riding style: in classic riding, glide lubrication is applied to the nose and heel, to the middle part - grip lubricant to reduce recoil, and for skating, the surface is covered only with paraffin. Follow these rules - and your skis will serve for a long time, giving you only positive emotions from skiing.

• The lubrication process depends on whether your skis are plastic or wooden. Plastic is unpretentious and has a high sliding rate even without lubrication. Due to moisture, wood can swell and have a high friction rate (which leads to surface damage from hard or hard snow).
• If you want to apply lubricant less often, then they will do. Although the slip rate is lower, but they are more unpretentious. They will appeal to those who are keen on slow classic skiing.
• Using a rubbing candle is, of course, an economical option, but far from the best. Candle wax will wear off quickly (especially on hard snow). The cheapest specialized paraffin wax will have a much better performance indicator.
• Fans of fast driving need to set themselves up for regular ski care, since a high speed limit can only be achieved with perfect glide. Therefore, you will have to apply a fresh coat every time.
• Masters of skiing in their arsenal have lubricants in case of sudden weather changes to eliminate external interference in their difficult task. If a simple adherent of skiing is to participate in a marathon, then the choice will also primarily depend on the condition of the snow (old or fresh), humidity, air temperature at the time of the competition.
• Means aimed only at improving glide are advantageous for skating, not for all other lovers skiing, which is more suitable for the classic move.
• The new ones are already paraffin, but this coating is not suitable for driving. Its purpose is the safety of goods during transportation. Therefore, it is better to remove it immediately.

Types of ski wax

Grease

This type of lubrication is usually called "lazy" because it does not require either time or effort. There are the following types quick lubrication: aerosols, emulsions, pastes, creams. The main disadvantage is the short duration, after 6-10 kilometers, reapplication is required. Usually, lovers of this type of lubricant use it immediately on the spot, since after application it is enough to wait two minutes and hit the road.

Professionals, on the other hand, prefer not to use them, but have them in stock. Sudden weather changes may require lubrication adjustments. And on the spot it can only be done in this way.

Paraffin

Paraffin is a more thorough remedy. Its solid form gives better protection and lasts a long time.

Paraffin is available as fluorine-free (CH), low-fluoride (LF) and high-fluoride (HF). The choice depends on the humidity of the air: the higher it is, the more fluorine should be contained in the lubricant. The CH and LF markings are sufficient as they give acceptable glide. CH is a simple protection, LF is used as a base on which, if desired, weather additives such as HF are applied.

It is important that the paraffin is matched to the air temperature. On sale, most often it comes in a set of several options with an exact indication of the applied temperature range.

How to lubricate cross-country skis for a beginner

The main task of the lubrication for the classic ride is to prevent slipping (rollback) during riding and to ensure easy sliding forward. This can be achieved by using two types of ointment (sliding and holding).

To prevent the ski from slipping during movement, holding ointment is used. It should be applied to the area where the boot is located, plus 20-35 centimeters in the forward direction. The distance is usually selected individually, depending on the ratio of weight, height, leg length and ski.

It makes sense to use ointments for sliding when the air temperature is above zero, or there is severe frost outside. These means rub the toe and heel of the ski.

By the way, if you are worried about the question, plastic skis for the classic move, then take into account the structure of the coating. Because the material used for the outsole itself has good sliding properties (which is why some recommend using plastic for running loads, not for leisurely walks). It will be good if, before applying, it is easy to treat the area of ​​application with a fine sandpaper.

If hard paraffins are used as a sliding lubricant, then for optimal application it is better to use a special iron (not for household use). Then the lubricant will penetrate well into the coating structure. It should be borne in mind that, even with a special iron, you need to make careful, short-lived movements.

How to remove old ointment from skis

Removing old ointment at home is not a difficult process. If liquid or aerosol lubricants have been used, it will be sufficient to wipe with a remover. Hard paraffin is removed mechanically: first with a plastic scraper, then with a brass brush. This is done in the direction from the toe to the heel. The recommended scraper thickness is 3 millimeters (then it has sufficient flexibility without damaging the coating).

Important! Removing the old ointment must be carried out each time before applying a new one.

How to apply holding ointment correctly

First, the design features of the skis themselves are determined by the presence or absence of a notch and a groove.

A notch is some bump in the outsole to reduce slippage. And some people think: if there is a notch, then there is no need to apply holding ointment, which is wrong. Although this element helps to push off the snow (due to adhesion to the surface), a layer of ointment will still be useful.

The groove serves so that the skis do not move apart, but can move in the chosen direction, even if there is no ski track under their feet. Holding ointment inside the groove does not need to be applied, since the main emphasis during repulsion falls on the edges.

Where to apply ski ointment

The holding ointment itself is applied under the block (the location of the leg) and after, at a distance of 20-30 centimeters forward in the direction of travel. Although, if there is a notch, this distance can be reduced. The area for application is selected experimentally. If the repulsion goes well, you do not feel discomfort, then everything is calculated correctly. Athletes do just that.

What is needed to apply the ointment

The holding ointment is applied in small portions to a clean surface. Some advise to apply it with a herringbone, with a tip in the direction of travel, supposedly it helps the ski to better keep the direction and less cling to the snow.

After placing the ointment on the sole, it is rubbed with an even thin layer. And wipe the remnants with a dry cloth and let the ointment grab, after which you can go for a drive. There is one secret here, though. The set includes two ointments: cold and warm. The latter is softer, but less tenacious. Warm ones can be applied over cold ones, so take them with you.

Note! If you feel that the skis do not ride well or the repulsion is too strong, then simply smear an additional layer in the same way, which can be done on the spot.

Brushing the sliding surface

It should be noted that the removal of excess from the sliding surface is as necessary as application. Excessive wax does not help the skis slide. Therefore, brushing has a separate role. Its task is to adjust to the optimal sliding mode, since the ski surface is not perfectly smooth, but has grooves that the scraper will not clean. A brush, better specialized, will help to cope with them. Finally, the equipment is ready, it remains to hit the road.

And remember winter sport- it's not only exercise stress, but also getting a portion of fresh charging air, which is so lacking in cities. And also the opportunity to unwind with maximum health benefits!

First, a couple of words for those completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic ride, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated sliding lubricants, usually with paraffins, and the central part of the ski (block) lubricated with holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the last is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot, placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block another 10-15 cm to the toe of the ski. (I have heard how people were recommended that there was no recoil to smear back part(!!!) skis.)

Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with sliding greases.

The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you are going to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the time spent on preparing the skis is greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.

If you have read materials from Swix or other companies devoted to preparing skis, you can estimate how long it will take minimal professional training of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (applying, removing with a plastic scraper, cleaning with a brush), then applying 1-2 layers of weather wax (applying, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removing with a plastic scraper, cleaning with a brush, polishing) ... That is, for half an hour at least you will be fiddling with one pair. Plus additional "pleasures" - the smell (though not strong), scraped off paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor, the end of the carpets. One time my friend and I prepared skis at his house, rolled the carpet, then, of course, we removed everything, but some residual paraffin, apparently, remained on the floor, and the carpet began to slide wildly ... I remember the kind words of his wife ... In short, we need a place where to turn around and not bother anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the paraffin residues will be scattered throughout the apartment with their feet, especially in winter, when, due to dryness and static electricity, these residues tend to stick to everything. It happens that while you are busy with the preparation, all the desire to ride disappears from the family. This is only for the "turned" fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and good in terms of results, which will be written about in the following sections.

In order to have an idea of ​​the process of professional preparation of skis, read the article by A. Grushin "How to prepare skis?" from the magazine "Ski races" №5. Or get the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from Fischer's store.

Ski ointments slip

Sliding lubricants are different types... The most commonly used paraffins, and in professional sports accelerators (powders or compressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are quite expensive and consumed quite quickly. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are not worse, and often even better (except that some of them go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it makes no sense to take a lot. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather ... In professional lubrication, this is solved by rolling back paraffins, but those who like to torment themselves with a choice do not need anything.

If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then you better buy fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where the air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is usually below 50%, then you will be fine with paraffins without fluoride.

Of the inexpensive domestic paraffins, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take a set of MVIS Marathon - it will suit you perfectly. (These lubricants roll back just in the Moscow region, and they go well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and rolls well in most cases. This is a set of light-fluoride paraffins (with a low content of fluorine) for three temperature ranges. It is also worth taking pills - the MVIS accelerator. They have it for sunny weather №238 at a temperature of -9 + 5, it lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather in which he is really good, but he will go in cloudy weather, albeit worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once I smeared it in a cold way, you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but it is spent very sparingly - enough for many years.

For humid climates, fluoridated gels, pastes, sprays or emulsions are good. Applied to sliding surface using a cotton swab or sprayed, dried or warmed up with a hairdryer, then polished. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: a little expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.

Ski hold ointments

Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must meet two requirements. First, the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and the snow crystals enter the layer of the holding ointment, the ski "sticks" to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, which will allow the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, the pressure under the block is also present, but the ointment should allow gliding on one ski and "brake" only at the moment of push. Therefore, the selection of the optimal holding ointment that provides the best combination of grip and glide is not an easy task in professional sports. The alternation of layers of different ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques.

Lovers can smear easier. In order not to fool my head, I will give the most simple rule: for most subzero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (without fluoride) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.), you need to put an ointment, the lower temperature limit range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and therefore the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take with you a plastic rubbing (so-called "cork") and a warmer ointment and colder than the one that was smeared at home. If you do not get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much, put a colder one on top, it does not hold well - a warmer one. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the pad forward to the toe of the ski.) Apply grease for a couple of minutes, and you will be happy to ride for the rest of the time. Since the snow is different everywhere, for a specific region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Feel free to experiment and you will quickly find the best option.

For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment are enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you smear at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork.

Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied with a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do this in the cold, better at home).

The klister may be needed for freezing temperatures. But it gets very dirty. Before you put the skis in the cover, when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the cover. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are upright, then it begins to slowly flow down along them. So after rolling, it is better to immediately remove the klister with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry cloth).

In freezing temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:

· Stick up. At transition temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially when falling, snow, you may encounter "stickiness" - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.

· Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional -2 -0, but it also happens at -25), "icing" of the ointment may begin - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a push, begin to break off, leaving the tips in the ointment, and on an ice crust appears on its surface. Most often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. It can also happen if you start skiing immediately after leaving the house, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the water temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it is too early to ski. In addition, the ointment that has not cooled down can quickly disappear. Let the skis (and ointments) cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.

· The state of the snow in the track and outside it can be different, so the ointment, which allowed you to roll normally in the track, can greatly slow down when you exit it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in the shade, such as in a forest.

Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes

Now about the required set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or another company) manual for preparing skis, you get the impression that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all kinds of tools and materials for the skis. For professional ski training, this is really necessary. But the amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools.

If you take skis with a racing base (this is sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - the paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at high temperatures, you automatically burn through the base (sliding surface), that is, melt the pores, and the paraffin stops absorbing into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears (see Steve Poulin's article "Use the iron correctly"). A good ski iron can be purchased for $ 60-70.

New skis, regardless of whether you will then use hot waxing or not, it is still better to process them with an iron for the first time. In extreme cases, you can do with a household iron (just don't ruin a good one, take an old one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large, damp cloth on hand. If suddenly the paraffin starts to smoke, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by attaching a rag to it, and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft positive paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the iron thermostat to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the tip to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski at all times. It is better to run the household iron sideways, with the wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.

· Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin wax. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a fragment of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put a fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive up, and trim a ruler on the sandpaper so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs and irregularities. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler on the skin in a semicircle (while the edges should remain sharp). Adjust these corners to the groove of your skis to remove the wax from the groove later. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the corners to different pairs. Look at the branded scrapers in the store to get an idea of ​​what you should end up with.

· Nylon brush, used to remove residual paraffin after removing it with a scraper. If you will be using hot paraffin wax, a stiff brush is needed. For this I had to use household brushes such as "ironing" or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. "Sand is not an important substitute for oats," but you can also remove excess paraffin.

· Rough Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove the lint from the plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (In fact, the residual fluff will come off on its own after a few months of riding.) Fibertex is not too expensive. Household abrasive plates of approximately the same appearance may contain less abrasive, and only add pile. But there are also almost complete analogs. But to buy it or not to buy it ... Probably not necessary.

· Fiberlene (fiberlene) - non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed, you can polish the skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, with an old woolen sock.

· Sandpaper SWIX No. 100, used for sanding the shoe for classic skis so that the ointment holds better. Need not. Any household skin will come off with the appropriate grain size. In general, you need to skin under the block if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice.

· Shaving scraper Swix T-89, used to remove lint - no need for an amateur.

· The cycle is metal. It is unlikely that you will cycle yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski rack in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be cycled. The cycle is only needed to remove the burnt plastic. And to spoil the ski when cycling is as easy as shelling pears - and now a wave or a scratch. Lovers don't need it.

· Knurling is used to apply structure to a sliding surface. Lovers don't need it. The generic structure applied in the factory is sufficient.

· Copper brush, needed to remove frost wax. If you are willing to accept the slight loss of glide by using warmer paraffin wax, then you don't need it. If you apply hard frost paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a gel or accelerator on frost, applied in a very thin layer, and does not require the use of a hard brush.

· Rinse, used to remove the holding ointment under the shoe. Also suitable for rinsing off slippery wax if you cannot use hot cleaning of skis. Desirable. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - that she just did not have to clean.

· Rubbing (cork), used to smooth out holding ointments. Plastic is better for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. It will definitely be required.

Optional ski accessories

Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be where to store the skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with the holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to clean it from clothes without solvent or remover. Good domestic covers start at 200 rubles. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It accommodates both skis and poles.

It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bindings. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski will be damaged during transportation by poles or bindings of another pair. If you walk close to the ski track, then you can carry your skis without a cover. It is more difficult to get dirty on skis held together by bundles. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch.

Rags. You will need old cotton rags to handle your skis. They wipe dry the sole of the iron after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the remaining paraffin after passing it with a scraper and brushes, and so on. You can even polish the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, with a rag without pressing hard.

How to store skis

Since most models of skis, especially mass ones, use wood, you should not store your skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. A friend of mine put a ski bag on a sunny balcony for the summer. And one pair of skis "led", it's good that it was inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.

Simplified ski lubrication technology

You can read about the subtleties of applying lubricants hot (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin's article "Use the Iron Correctly" from LS No. ... In particular, he does not recommend using household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.

You can try this method (experimented): take a metal ladle with a lid, say, a liter. It should not be enameled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably an aluminum one - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald. Place the lid on the ladle to avoid scalding from the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins during the initial processing of skis or when lubricating with heat and a slight minus. Typically, such paraffins have a melting point well below 100 degrees Celsius. The paraffin wax should be previously rubbed with a thick layer on the sliding surface, and the ski should lie horizontally, with a sliding surface upward, for example, on two stools.

Boiling water and a ladle that conducts heat well is enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can't put frosty paraffin in that way, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burnout of the base. Change the water as it cools. Take a few slow passes from the toe to the end of the ski. But keep in mind, this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and scald. Therefore, for permanent use, it is still better to purchase a ski iron.

Another way. Paraffin can be applied with vigorous rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If there is a clear layer of old paraffin on the ski, brush it off lightly with a plastic scraper and / or nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of a bar of paraffin (this is convenient to control by looking at the glare of the ski from the window). Not even necessarily a completely continuous layer. Then take a cork rub and rub intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The generated heat is enough to partially melt the paraffin into the base. Then brush lightly from the tip to the heel of the ski. The time spent is minimal. There is practically no dirt, no machine is required. On ordinary snow, it will keep at least 10 km.

There is such a thing - a thermal wash from the TOKO firm - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to spongy rubber. This combination supposedly generates enough heat to cold apply accelerators. Imitated by a thick synthetic felt insole wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying cold paraffins.

What ski ointments to buy for preparing skis

Depending on your fitness level and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lubricant that are sufficient for riding.

Minimum.

Firm holding ointment

This set will be enough for you for comfortable walks in the woods on plastic skis without recoil and sublimation. It is not at all necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is quite enough to buy a set of holding ointments (for example, VISTI or Swix) and smear the skis only under the shoe, rubbing them with a cork so that there is no recoil. For walks, believe me, this is quite enough, the skis will slide even without paraffin.

Here's what is included in the required minimum kit:

3 - 4 jars (briquette) holding ointment covering a temperature range of 0 to -15 degrees (adjust based on region) and one cork or synthetic rub.

Synthetic cork

Ointments and rubbing will cost you 100-200 rubles. If money allows, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of branded wash (about 300 rubles). However, it was written above about the scraper and its substitutes. You can do without a wash. As without it at all, that is, remove the old ointment with a scraper, or replacing it with a bottle of kerosene or gasoline. (To clean the skis clean, which, in general, is completely optional, you can use a piece of cotton wool dipped in gasoline. And the main "household" dignity of the wash is in the absence of a strong smell.)

Only, please, keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go on the track at a positive temperature, because with a plus, you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).

Sufficient.

Holding liquid ointment

This kit will allow you to competently and fully take care of your skis. This set is enough for the eyes not only for comfortable riding in the forest in any weather, but also to participate in most mass ski racing type "Ski Track of Russia". It includes the same as in the minimum set, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a wash bottle, a plastic scraper, and a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more substantial amount - from 3000 rubles. It is highly desirable to add a special ski machine to this set - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very decently, but also to enjoy this process. (The machine, if desired, can be made by yourself from improvised pieces of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and a few pieces of iron and screws to secure the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by a fairly advanced and prepared skier, so that in many respects the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in "LS", from a trainer or from some other sources. However, we provide this list as well. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(This lubricant is especially effective in wet conditions). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static stress from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdery and in the form of tablets pure fluorocarbons), knurling (for applying a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. In addition, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have different brands of lubricants in their arsenal, since ointments from often completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.

I. Should I buy notched skis?

This is a question to which, alas, there is no single answer. I can only tell you quite definitely - it is notched skis that are used by more than half of the population on skis of our planet, and this figure, you see, says a lot. The advantages of using notched skis are more than obvious - you will never have to bother yourself with the question of how to smear your skis. Agree, such a statement of the question captivates - took the skis, got up and went.

The cons are just as obvious. Such skis will hold well on soft, loose snow, and will not hold on a more or less hard track. And, the most offensive, if skis with a notch do not hold, it is almost impossible to smear them.

I will say right away that I am not a fan of the use of these skis and from an early age I taught skis to smear. This is a more difficult option, which nevertheless guarantees normal skiing in any weather. However, the final choice is still yours, and the article below is addressed to just those who have made their choice in favor of "ordinary" skis, and are faced with the question of how to spread them.

II. A set for lubricating skis from two, three, sometimes four jars of ointment, a rubbing plug, a scraper.

This is the smallest kit you will ever need to lubricate your skis. To ski in a classic style, the skis must be smeared under the block with a holding ointment. The block is the middle part of the ski, starting from the heel of the boot and located 15-25 cm upward from the attachment. This middle part of the ski (block) should be smeared with a holding ointment so that your skis do not slip when you push back with your foot.

For the first steps, a set of inexpensive domestic or imported ointments is quite suitable for you - it usually consists of four briquettes, sometimes jars made of thick metal foil or soft plastic. You will also need a synthetic rubbing stopper. It is quite enough to buy a set of 4 ointments and smear the skis only under the shoe, rubbing them with a cork.

So, having smeared the ski under the block with ointment, it (ointment) should be rubbed with a rubbing cork. Ideally, after rubbing, you should have an even, slightly shiny layer.

If an even layer for some reason does not work out, do not bother with this circumstance, it is quite enough to just smooth the ointment.

Now about one more nuance. If you go skiing in the woods, it is advisable to always bring a warmer and colder ointment than the one you just applied, as well as a cork and a scraper. Consider the two most common cases of missing ointment.
1. The skis do not hold, or, as the skiers say, "give", that is, they do not allow you to confidently push, slide back when pushing with the foot. In this case, it is enough to put a warmer ointment under the block on top of the old one and rub it with a cork, and the situation will be corrected - you can enjoy riding again. It only takes you a couple of minutes to fix the grease.
2. Skis, as skiers say, “dull”, that is, they do not ride at all, and sometimes they are also covered with ice or snow under the block - in the middle part of the ski where you applied too warm ointment. Skiers call this situation "sticky" if snow sticks to the ointment, or icing if ice forms on the ointment. There is a way out, you only need a little more time.

So, if ice or snow has formed under the block, scrape them off with a scraper. If there is no scraper, this can be done with a branch, a sharp ski pole, the key to the apartment, the edge of another ski, etc.

After that, intensively rub the ski block first with a glove, removing the lubricant from the remaining snow and droplets of moisture, and then intensively with a cork, warming up and, as it were, drying the ointment. You will have to exert much more effort than rubbing in a warm room. Now that the ointment has dried and warmed up, you can put an additional layer of colder ointment on top of the unsuccessful lubricant. As a rule, in 99 percent of cases, this technique corrects the situation and allows you to continue walking through the forest.

III. Consider a specific example: how to smear skis at minus five degrees?

For example, outside the temperature is minus five degrees. You have a set of Visty ski waxes, consisting of five briquettes. The most logical option for lubricating skis at minus five degrees of frost will be smeared with blue ointment - 2 - 8. However, remember about Golden Rule: for a ski trip, you should always take two briquettes (cans) of border ointments in your pocket or pouch. In this case, it will be - 0 - 2 (purple ointment) and - 5 - 12 (light green). This way, whether it gets warmer or colder, you can make adjustments to your lubrication and enjoy skiing.

Back home, remove the old ointment from the ski with any plastic scraper (a piece of a plastic ruler, an old audio cassette case, etc.). After that, you can safely apply new grease to the remnants of the old grease. If you want to clean your skis (which, in general, is completely optional), you can do this with a piece of cotton wool dipped in gasoline or turpentine. If funds permit, buy a normal plastic scraper and a bottle of branded wash.

IV. Set of liquid ointments, remover, scraper for skiing in positive weather.

As I said, four inexpensive cans of ointment, a scraper and a rubbing stopper are enough for almost all occasions. But there are situations when there is still a lot of snow, and the air temperature is already steadily above zero. Sunday afternoon, the sun, drops drive you out into the street with skis, you are smeared with the warmest ointment briquettes you have, and skis ... categorically do not hold, "give away." Is it a shame? And how! And, nevertheless, there is a way out of this situation, and it is quite simple - buy a tube of universal liquid ski ointment (skiers sometimes also call liquid ski ointments klisters) and get a bottle of wash (gasoline, kerosene, turpentine). I want to warn you right away: buying liquid ski waxes will transfer you to the category of slightly more advanced skiers, because handling them will require a little more fuss and experience. But the gains in the form of comfortable skiing on the spring track will be simply incomparable.

So, you will completely manage with a set of two tubes of liquid ointment - red (plus) and purple (zero and a small minus). We smear with red ointment at any positive air temperature, and purple - at zero and a slight minus. It is important to understand here that spring snow is almost never soft and fluffy, like in winter. As a rule, in spring it consists of hard large snow-ice granules. Skiers call this snow firn. For such icy snow in sub-zero weather, you will need a purple klister.

How to spread skis with liquid ski wax? This should be done in a warm room, evenly squeezing greasy drops of ski ointment onto the block (middle part) of the ski and then rubbing this ointment with a scraper.

And now about why you have to fiddle with liquid ski ointments a little more than solid ones (jars or briquettes). The fact is that liquid ski ointments, which in their consistency are very reminiscent of condensed milk, tend to stain hands, clothes, and in order to avoid these sad consequences, after training, the skis should be immediately cleaned with a scraper, and then with a wash. The second option is to pack the skis in a cover, bring them home and clean them already there. Still, most skiers prefer to clean their skis right after their workout - fewer dirty clothes and sticky hands, and the inside of the ski cover doesn't get dirty. The obligatory need to clean the skis after a walk is perhaps the only inconvenience of using liquid ointments. But the invariable companions of liquid ointments are usually the spring sun, a wonderful ski track and a wonderful mood. So, believe me, the game is worth the candle.

V. Economy sets of ointments for ski lubrication.

As a rule, all leading manufacturers put on sale economy sets of ski waxes, containing two or three cans of solid wax and a rubbing cork.

Sometimes this kit also includes one or two tubes of liquid ointment, a scraper. It happens that this kit is packed in an inexpensive belt bag (skiers say "pouch"), and sometimes it also includes a spray can with a wash. This is a very good option in order to solve all your ski lubrication problems in one fell swoop for the next few years, so use it whenever possible.

Vi. Slip ointments, or, as they are also called in Russia, paraffins for lubricating skis.

This is an area that I strongly discourage you from intruding. Trust me, modern plastic skis glide perfectly in the snow without any special treatment. This glide is enough for your eyes for any, even the longest walks in the forest in any weather.

Therefore, you can forget about the ends of the skis (that is, what is located above and below the block - the middle part of the ski) and do not process them with anything.

It's another matter if your walks in the woods have brought you to such a state that you wanted to go to the start of, say, the 50-kilometer Moscow Ski Track, or, even worse, test yourself in a very difficult classic MVTU Race.

In this case, you need to already learn how to paraffin your skis, you need to acquire not only a set of sliding ointments (paraffins), but also an iron, a brush, a hard metal cycle, a ski preparation machine, etc. But these are pleasant chores. This means that you have already firmly "hooked on the needle" of ski racing, which means that skiing has already become a very important part of your life for you. But this time we will not talk about all the intricacies of preparing skis with sliding ointments - this is beyond the scope of our today's conversation.