Cross-country skis are usually finalized in the factory on a machine with an abrasive belt or abrasive stone. Finishing is usually done once before using new skis and periodically throughout the season on a sander with an abrasive stone. Processing is carried out by experienced specialists in special workshops. The sander can be tuned in different ways to achieve a ski surface structure that matches specific trends in snow conditions.

Sliding surface structure.
Experience has shown that a surface does not slide well if it:
• very smooth, shiny, as if polished
• melted by high temperature and high pressure processing
• oxidized, dry as a result of storage without a layer of ointment

Glide can be improved by applying patterns to the surface of the ski. These patterns or line textures (profiles) are called "structure". Applying structure to sliding surface reduces the area of ​​contact of the surface with snow, and also breaks the surface tension of water films on the surface. Typically applied structures are divided into three main groups:

1. Fine structure for dry friction conditions from -15 ° C and below;
2. Medium structure for intermediate friction from -15 ° C to O ° C;
3. Coarse structure for wet friction at 0 ° C and warmer. These groups of structures also correlate with the types and sizes of snow crystals, the deformability of the snow and the free water content of the snow.

Hand applied structure.
Excellent ski surface structures can be applied with hand tools. The most common tool for applying structure to cross-country skis is knurling. This tool can form structures from thin to very large (0.25 mm, 0.5 mm, 0.75 mm, 1.0 mm, 2.0 mm and 3.0 mm). The tool is held from the tip to the tail of the ski (or vice versa, depending on the knurling design) with firm, constant pressure. The ski should be supported along its entire length, if possible using a profile machine. Combinations of structure types can be obtained by knurling one structure onto another. After rolling the structure onto the surface with a sharp steel scraper or razor scraper, lightly flatten the tops of the beds rolled onto the surface. Also walk along the ski several times with Fibertex to round off the sharp edges of the grooves.
Grinding structure.
The sander can create a variety of sliding surface patterns. Grinding is carried out, as is known, by passing the surface of the ski over a rapidly rotating abrasive stone. The shape of the working surface of the stone is supported by the removal of irregularities by a diamond filling head moving across the working surface. Such a dressing not only maintains a flat shape of the working surface, but also creates a pattern on the stone, which, in turn, creates a structure on the surface of the ski. The speed of the filling head, the speed of rotation of the abrasive stone, the force with which the ski is pressed against the grinding stone and the speed with which the ski is passed over the stone are the factors that create the desired pattern on the surface of the ski. Higher lateral speed of the diamond head during threading will create larger structures. For a finer structure, this speed must be reduced.
After machine resurfacing, few or no fibers remain to be removed. To make sure, look at the surface with a magnifying glass. Using a razor scraper and then fibertex after mechanical sanding will remove the topmost layer of the sliding surface that may have melted during sanding.

Removing the lint
For optimal glide, it is necessary to completely free the polyethylene sliding surface from microfibers or fibers of abraded plastic. When updating the sliding surface by any manual method or on a machine with an abrasive belt, additional lint removal is required to complete the processing. Fibertex is specially designed for lint removal. The best results are obtained with fibertex made from fine nylon fibers and silicon carbide abrasive particles. To remove the lint, movements with the fiber-tex sponge can be performed in both directions. Also, in order to pick up more fibers for subsequent removal with fibertex, brush the surface with a bronze brush several times. You can even brush and fibertex several times from tail to toe of the ski in order to pick up more microfibers. Finish the process with a few passes with fibertex containing a softer abrasive.
Another very effective tool for removing polyethylene microfibers is the razor scraper. Light scrubbing movements with it in combination with fibertex will remove the pile without disturbing the pattern of the structure.

Surface burn (oxidized sliding surface)
A common problem when riding on hard snow is the so-called "surface burn". It is best seen on black surfaces. The "burnt" surface looks "dry", but in reality what you see is loose plastic fibers worn against the hard cold snow. During the first half of winter, when the air and soil are cold and there is little snow, the chances of surface damage from abrasion are highest.
"Fired" and oxidized surfaces are treated in the same way. It is prudent to remove the abraded layer with a razor scraper or steel scraper. Remember to re-knurl the grooves. However, if the burn or oxidation is "mild" (not severe), perhaps just Fibertex will suffice. Apply a hot mild ointment to the surface. To reduce surface wear under these conditions, it is preferable to use ointments with synthetic waxes as the top coat. They can be used alone or mixed with an ointment, one step warmer.

Take care of your skis before going on the piste!

Progress does not stand still, and these days every self-respecting skier should know words such as "paraffin", "accelerator" and "structure".
The need for ski lubrication is determined in an obvious way. If they do not slide well, snow sticks to the sliding surface, and when driving, it seems that someone is stepping on your skis from behind, then it's time to think about lubrication.
To begin with, according to the "rules" of the ski, it is necessary to prepare for each exit on the track, although this is not necessary. But if yesterday your skis glided well, but today the temperature and humidity of the air (and, accordingly, of the snow) have changed, this is a sure sign that it is worth remembering what the skis were smeared with yesterday and make adjustments. If the weather is less even, the snow is good, and you are a lazy person, then after treating your skis with good paraffin, you can safely ride 15-20 km, usually so much paraffin holds on the sliding surface of the skis.
Sometimes the sliding surface of the ski looks like it is "dried", covered with some kind of white "bloom". In fact, these are microvilli sticking out of the sliding surface of the skis, tousled with snow crystals. Such a "raid" - great excuse wax your skis, but try to prevent it from appearing, because during oxidation, the sliding surface loses precious fluorine, graphite and other impurities contained in it. In addition to abrasion, the sliding surface with paraffin applied to it is subject to another unpleasant phenomenon - it perfectly absorbs various dirt, which is clearly visible when the sliding surface initially has a white color, and then begins to turn gray (currently, skis with a white sliding surface practically do not produced, as it was already noted earlier, the composition of the sliding surface includes such components as fluorine and graphite, which give it a dark color). The fact is that the polyethylene from which the sliding surface is made is a porous material. These pores absorb wax, especially when applied hot, and help hold it for longer. But dirt gets into these pores. Therefore, before applying fresh paraffin, the sliding surface should be cleaned by removing the old soiled paraffin. In addition, a so-called structure - microscopic longitudinal grooves - can be applied to the prepared sliding surface. When preparing cross-country skis, the structure can be applied with special knurls at home, moreover, the pitch and depth of its grooves is determined by the state of the snow, namely, by the size of its crystals.
And now for more details.

2. Preparation of classic skis.

How to clean the ointment from classic skis? For example, from liquid ointment?

1. We close the ski area covered with ointment, toilet paper or napkins.
2. Warm up with an iron until the ointment is absorbed into the paper.
3. Using a plastic cycle, remove this soaked paper. Repeat this procedure if necessary.
4. Remove the remnants of dirt with a wash.

Preparing a block for classic skis.
The ointment lies smoother if applied cold, and if applied in several thin layers. It is better (and more correct) to rub the ointment on a profile machine.
Rubbing the ointment is done with quick movements. The cork is rubbed due to the heat created by friction, but if there is too much heat, the ointment will begin to stretch, as a result, lumps and gaps will appear.
Remember that when using liquid ointments, the last should be shorter, since the coefficient of adhesion to snow for liquid ointments is much higher compared to solid ointments. On average, when using liquid ointment, the block becomes 15 cm shorter. Many skiers, when switching to liquid ointment, not only make the block shorter, but often switch to harder skis altogether. In addition, the length of the distance has a great influence on the length of the block when switching to liquid ointments - the longer it is, the more the athlete gets tired, the more confident he needs to hold, and therefore the longer the block. In this case, the block is shortened in comparison with solid ointments not by 20 cm, but by 15 or only 10 cm.

Block for holding liquid ointment (klister)

3. Preparation of skating skis.

Since paraffins are hot ointments, you will need an iron to use them, spend some money buying a good lubricating iron - it will work better and keep your skis from overheating.

HOW YOU SHOULD USE IRON
Once the iron has reached the correct temperature (which is usually the temperature at which the wax begins to melt on the surface of the iron), the iron is moved from the tip of the ski to the end in one continuous pass. Transfer the iron and start the same procedure again with the tip of the ski. Repeat the process 4 to 7 times on the ski. This process ensures the correct amount of time spent warming up the ski and that the base is less likely to overheat.
The room temperature must be at least 16 ° C. Most skiers do not understand the importance of this problem. At ambient temperatures below 16 ° C, the temperature inside the ski also drops, leaving too little space between the polyethylene molecules for the wax to absorb properly. Coldness in a room often results in excessive temperatures or poor wax penetration.
Paraffin application - the most important moment with proper ski preparation. Simple facts:

Dry oxidized polyethylene can lead to a "cluttered" base.

Old dry bases absorb paraffin wax poorly, especially fluoride.

A poorly finished base will lose its structure more quickly.

The speed of your racing wax is highly dependent on the condition of the skis prior to wax application.

Ultimately, overheating can reduce the efficiency and performance of all paraffins, especially those containing 100% fluorine.

GENERAL ERRORS:
Most skiers use the wrong iron. The home iron that is commonly used by most skiers is not designed to melt fluoride and hard synthetic waxes. The melting point of Swix Cera F is 100 ° C (212 F) and the melting point of Swix CH 4 is 95 ° C (203 F). Paraffins made today wear less, they are harder than traditional waxes, and therefore require a hotter iron temperature. When skiers use a home iron, they usually set the temperature somewhere in the area ... "cotton", "silk" or "synthetic". This is terrible!
Do not use a household iron!

Preparing skis for priming
Before proceeding with the preparation of new skis, it is necessary to determine how the sliding surface is processed. Factory-sanded skis require light manual sanding (sharp metal cycles), which removes only the fluff and not the plastic (i.e., without erasing the pattern - the grinding surface on the sliding surface). If there was no factory grinding, then it is necessary to check the condition of the sliding surface, removing defects. This is done by removing a thin layer of the surface with metal cycles, which alternates with paraffin impregnation (soak abundantly with paraffin, then cycle - repeat this procedure several times). Then we clean the skis from paraffin residues using a brass brush and hard fibertex.

Ski primer
After scraping the ski with metal cycles, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the sliding surface with a brass or bronze brush and a hard fibertex, and then apply a primer paraffin (special primer or any more or less soft with a range of application - 3 -10 degrees. Usually purple is used). In this case, it is advisable to use an excessive amount of paraffin, warming up the skis two or three times without intermediate scrambling and adding paraffin insofar as it is absorbed into the surface.
Cool your skis. After 20 - 30 minutes, remove excess wax with a plastic scraper and brush the surface with a nylon brush. Perform this treatment of the sliding surface several times with a thorough cleaning with a nylon brush after each layer. With the above ski primer, we must achieve the creation of a shiny layer on the surface.
If weather conditions require the skis to have a structure and the skis do not have a factory grinder, you must manually make the appropriate cuts. The application of the structure is always done before the base wax is applied to the ski. True, sometimes the weather interferes with this order of work: for example, in the last hour before the start, the temperature and humidity change sharply. In this case, the thread has to be applied after the main wax.

Primer skis for appropriate weather.
When priming a sliding surface with base paraffin, remember:

The melting point of the wax used in the primer must be higher than the melting point of the base wax, i.e. the primer wax should be more refractory (in this case, the base paraffin does not mix with the primer). In the case of cold weather, when frosty paraffin is used as the main paraffin, and therefore - refractory solid paraffin - and there is no way to use harder paraffin as a primer, we primer the skis with paraffin, similar in hardness to the main paraffin.

With very old, hard, "aggressive" snow, if the same weather (especially frost) lasts for a long period of time, and just to remove electrostatic stress from the surface during priming, it is recommended to use "antistatic" paraffin (for example, "START" -antistatic or "REX" -antistatic, etc.) when priming skis under appropriate weather, it is necessary to use simple paraffin under normal paraffin, and fluoride under fluorine.
The priming is done in the usual way, using an iron with a melting point normal for a given paraffin (as a rule, this is a temperature of 120 degrees). Apply paraffin wax to the sliding surface, melting the wax bar on the iron and thus pouring a thick layer of molten hot wax into the ski.

OBSERVATION:- it is not always possible (primarily financial) to pour paraffin on the ski like a river. Many amateurs skiing use the following method: with a short, quick movement, the paraffin tile is melted on the iron and with the same quick movement this tile (as long as there is molten paraffin on it) the area of ​​the ski is rubbed. The procedure is repeated several times until the entire ski is covered with paraffin. Then the paraffin is melted on the ski, as usual, with an iron. This method is not bad and has the right to life. In any case, you will be able to achieve significant paraffin savings.
Cool the ski for 20-30 minutes. (to room temperature), then remove excess paraffin with a plastic scraper and carefully clean the surface with a nylon brush.

ADVICE:- graphite-containing sliding surfaces are best primed with graphite or graphite paraffins

Base paraffin application (weather appropriate)
We select the most suitable paraffin for the appropriate weather. After choosing a suitable paraffin wax, apply it to the sliding surface by melting the wax bar on the iron and thus pouring a thick layer of hot melted wax into the ski. Allow to cool and cycle with a plastic cycle. Next, the wax residue is removed with a nylon brush. Then sand to a shine with either a sanding cloth or a softer brush.
When applying paraffin, you need to know the following: if paraffin is used in frosty weather (more refractory paraffin), then most of it must be removed with a plastic cycle before it hardens, because if you let the refractory paraffin cool completely, it will become hard and will chip off the ski when scraping chunks, leaving large areas of the ski without paraffin. After the final cooling of the ski, the remaining paraffin is removed with a hard plastic cycle and then with a hard nylon brush. Soft paraffins are processed in the same way. The only difference is that the soft paraffin must be allowed to cool completely and then removed with a plastic scraper and a medium hard nylon brush. Otherwise, the procedure for applying and removing paraffin is identical to that used for priming skis.

Application of the last layer: regular (free-flowing) powder or compressed (accelerator)
The powder is sprinkled in a thin layer on a sliding surface, and then melted with an iron (the proper melting of the powder is evidenced by a kind of "dancing" sparks or stars that appear within one or two seconds after passing through the iron). At the same time, it is advisable to melt the powder or accelerator in one motion, when the iron slowly moves along the ski.
After cooling, the sliding surface of the ski is cleaned of excess powder with a natural brush (horsehair) and polished with polishing paper. Everything! Your skis are ready to race.

ADVICE: when cleaning the sliding surface from powder residues, do not press hard on the ski - make gentle movements with light pressure on the brush.

Powders and accelerators can also be ground cold without using an iron. To do this, the powder is sprinkled on the sliding surface of the ski (and the ski is rubbed with an accelerator, respectively) and rubbed by hand, a natural cork or a special polishing cork. Then they are treated with a natural brush and sanded with polishing paper. However, the powder applied in this way adheres to the ski worse than the powder fixed on the skis with the help of a hot iron, and this method of preparing skis is recommended only when participating in competitions for short (5 -10 -15 km) distances.

Paraffin wax is used to lubricate skis to increase the sliding moment. Regardless of the type of skis used, without the use of lubricant, their grip on the snow will be too great for comfortable skiing. However, such grip is only necessary when the wheel is moving on the road. The skis should slide smoothly and gently.

Paraffins are mixtures of hydrocarbons that are obtained as a by-product in oil refining. The composition of the paraffin mixtures can differ in the degree of viscosity. There are such types of paraffins:

• Soft that melt at normal room temperature.
• Solid, which requires heating up to 70 degrees Celsius to melt.
• Crystalline paraffins, which undergo a crystallization process when heated above 70 degrees.

Paraffin wax color for skis by temperature: yellow +1 degrees and above, red from 0 to +5 degrees, purple from 0 to -3 degrees, blue from -2 to -6 degrees, green from -5 to -25 degrees

By its properties, this substance is both a lubricant and a water-resistant composition. They are added to different mixtures to obtain necessary qualities... For example, petroleum jelly is produced on the basis of a substance obtained from oil refining products.

Also, paraffin is used in lubricants for technology. V different types in skiing, it has found application as a slip-enhancing agent. Read also our article on what additional tools are required.

Paraffin wax mixtures for ski lubrication are generally classified into the following types:

• For riding in low temperatures below minus 12 degrees.
• For skiing in snow with a temperature from minus 12 to minus 2 degrees.
• Warm types used at temperature above minus 2 degrees.

The main substance on which the quality of sliding in warm weather depends is fluorine. For greases designed for warm weather, add more. The lower its content, the lower the temperature the grease is designed for. All weather greases are also available that can be applied regardless of weather conditions. For example, for use in a temperature range of 0 to 30 degrees. The composition of such a lubricant, in addition to fluorine, also includes silicone, various types of salts, metal oxides.

It is also worth noting that ski waxes can be produced in various forms.

Paraffin application with an iron

This procedure can only be carried out with a liquid version of paraffin wax for skis. To carry it out, the surface of the skis on which it is planned to apply must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt, snow and other substances that often fall on it during use. Then the skis should be well dried.

Application is in progress in the off-season. This requires:

• Heat a special iron for applying paraffin to a temperature of 150 degrees.
• Apply or spray the paraffin mixture on the ski surface intended for gliding. In this case, one should take into account the fact that for different types skis apply different methods applying paraffin lubricant. Ridge skis are designed to lubricate the entire sliding surface. On standard skis, only the beginning and end of the ski are lubricated, excluding its central part. Read about the types of cross-country skiing in.
• Next, you should walk with an iron on the paraffin-coated surface of the ski in the direction from toe to heel.
• After the paraffin coating procedure, the ski must cool down for at least 10 minutes. At the same time, the room temperature should not be lower than 0 degrees Celsius.
• The layer of grease should be brushed with a special brush.

The result of these actions is the penetration of heated paraffin into the pores of the material from which the ski is made, and filling them evens out its entire sliding surface. Anything that remains on its surface must be removed with a brush.

To achieve an acceptable result, the entire process must be done about 10 times. The reason for this is that when cleaning excess paraffin with a brush, part of the required layer, which was in the unevenness of the surface, will also be removed. When covering with a paraffin mixture a number of times, the paraffin layer will be denser and better compacted.

How to wax skis without an iron

It is not always possible to use an iron to cover skis with a paraffin mixture. This is often hindered by a time limit, with the obligatory need for such a lubrication.

For this purpose, ski lubricant manufacturers produce liquid ski waxes that do not require heat treatment for application. This requires:

• Dry the ski.
• Clean the slip layer thoroughly with a brush to remove dirt.
• Wipe and dry
• Apply a small amount of grease.
• Wait a short amount of time, about 3-5 minutes.
• Rub the grease over the entire surface of the ski.
• Let stand for about 10 minutes more.

If the situation develops so that there is too much lubricant, the excess amount is removed with a brush. But when applying the lubricant in a cold state, brushing in the last stage of application does not really matter.

Important! Many ski enthusiasts make the mistake of assuming that it is possible to lubricate with cold paraffin right between skiing. Such a layer will not last long. For high-quality application, at least one hour is required, as well as the presence of sunny weather or a warm room. Cold wax application will always be worse than standard heat treatment.

Top manufacturers

According to ski enthusiasts, the best ski lubricants are as follows:

• Ray. Considered a budget ski lubricant option. Correct use depends on the conditions in which you plan to ride, as well as the correct choice of the appropriate lubricant.

• Swix. The most popular lubricant for both skiing enthusiasts and professional skiers... The line of greases of this company provides options for any temperature and weather conditions.
• Vauchti... Liquid paraffins of this brand are very popular with skiers, as they do not require heat treatment before application. There are three types of lubricants in the line of these paraffins: for wet snow and temperatures from +10 to -6 degrees, for new and wet snow and temperatures from +4 to -2 degrees and paraffin for cold snow and temperatures from -3 to -15 degrees ...

Ski lubricants, even when applied correctly, need to be renewed on the sliding surface. Therefore, their correct and high-quality choice comes out on top.

See also a useful video on how to wax your skis at home:

Also interesting

10.07.2013

Why prepare your skis?

At the very beginning, a few words should be said for those who are new to this area. Ski ointments are of two types: and.

Application area holding ointments for the classic move.

For a classic style, the front and rear of the ski are lubricated with sliding paraffins. And the center of the ski is lubricated with a holding ointment to reduce recoil. The length of the middle part (pads) is about fifty centimeters. It is counted from the end of the heel of the boot, placed in the mount towards the toe of the ski. For beginners, it is possible to lengthen the last up to fifteen centimeters towards the toe.

In the skating style, the skis are lubricated along the entire length with sliding paraffins. You will have to choose paraffins depending on what goals you set for yourself. If your goal is skiing on the weekends, then the cost of lubrication and preparation time will be minimal. But if you are going to participate in competitions and do it more professionally, you will have to give a lot of money and time.

Minimum preparation of skis for more or less professional level includes: cleaning with soft paraffin (applying it, removing and then brushing), applying several layers of weather paraffin (must be applied, allowed to cool to room temperature (about ten minutes), then removed with a scraper, scrubbed and polished). As a result, you will spend at least half an hour on these preparations. Another inconvenience is the smell, but it is not particularly strong. If you prepare skis at home, then there is a serious problem - wax contamination. They can ruin the floors. And not only in the room where the preparation takes place, because there is an opportunity to spread it throughout the house. This kind of training will only appeal to ardent fans of skiing. Fortunately, there are easier preparation options.

Lubricants and slip wax.

There are several types of sliding lubricants. Paraffins are widely used among amateurs. Professionals, in most cases, also use it additionally. These funds are not cheap and are quickly spent. Therefore, if you are not a professional athlete, then it is better not to waste money on expensive accelerators. The shelf life of paraffins is not limited, but it makes no sense to buy it in large quantities.

If there is a humid climate where you intend to ride, then you should purchase. Well, if the air humidity is below fifty percent, then ordinary paraffins will do.

In humid climates, it is good to use fluorinated gels, emulsions, sprays. All you need is to apply them to the skis using an eplicator or spray. Then dry, warm up with a hairdryer and polish. In this case, the skis will be prepared very quickly and without problems. The main disadvantages of such funds are considerable cost and quick consumption.

Ski holding ointments.

Holding ointments exist in a solid and liquid state. Any holding ointment must meet two criteria. First, it should allow the skier to push (when pushing off under the middle part of the ski, additional pressure is created, and thanks to the ointment, the skis seem to stick to the snow (snow crystals enter the layer of ointment), which allows you to push off). After pushing away, the crystals come out of the layer of ointment, which allows the skis to glide. Secondly, in the case when a person glides on one of the skis and pressure is also created under the middle part of the ski, the ointment should not slow down the movement. There are various methods of applying the ointment, such as multiple coats.

With ointment for lovers, things are much easier. There is one simple rule that works for freezing temperatures and inexpensive ointments: you should use an ointment that has the lower end of the temperature range three to four degrees above the current temperature. If you have not guessed right with the ointment, and if the skis are too slow, then apply a "colder" ointment on top, if too slippery - a "warmer" one. Also, to enhance braking, you can increase the length of the block towards the toe of the ski. Applying a new layer of ointment will only take a few minutes, but nothing will spoil your riding experience. Do not be intimidated by experiments with ointment, in this way you can quickly find the best option for yourself.

It is enough for an amateur to have three or four jars of ointment, which would be in the range from plus three to minus fifteen degrees. If you lubricate your skis at home, it is recommended that you remove the remnants of the old holding ointment before applying a new one. To remove old ointment, use a special one. It is best to apply the ointment in two to three thin layers, rubbing each one.

Ointments in a liquid state are called. Apply it with the desired thin strip on both sides of the groove, then level it with a plastic scraper. This procedure is difficult to do directly on the track, so it is better to prepare in advance at home.

Klister can be applied at positive temperatures. But it has one unpleasant property - it stains the cover a lot. So after skiing, it is better to wrap the skis in polyethylene, so as not to contaminate and ruin the cover. After using the skis, the klister begins to melt and drain. It is best to wash off the klister immediately after rolling, or remove it with a scraper.

Solid ointments usually work fine in subzero temperatures, but in certain conditions, problems can arise:

• Stick up. When the temperature goes above zero, such an unpleasant phenomenon as sticking can occur. This is the adhesion of snow to the ointment. As a result, a snowball forms under the block.
• Icing. Snow crystals, instead of leaving the ointment after the point, break in it. An ice crust appears on the surface of the ointment. This often happens when the temperature of the ointment is slightly higher than necessary.
• The condition of the snow on the track and outside of it may differ, therefore, when exiting the track, problems may arise, the skis may slow down too much. This can also be observed when leaving the shade in the sun and vice versa.

Ski preparation tools.

A few words should be said about the required tools. After reading some articles, ski beginners may have the opinion that dozens of tools need to be purchased to prepare skis. For professionals, this is possible. But beginners can get by with only the most modest set. By the way, we have prepared several options for ski preparation kits in the section.

If the sliding surface of your skis is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool for preparing the skis will be. Rest necessary tools This is a scraper and 2 types of brushes - copper (for preliminary removal of dirt and residues of old wax) and nylon (for polishing the structure after applying new wax).

New skis, regardless of whether you will then subject them to hot waxing or not, are best treated with an iron. We do not recommend using an ordinary household iron, since there is a possibility of burning through the plastic - an irreversible effect that will greatly worsen the sliding properties of the plastic. Primary treatment should be performed with positive soft paraffin, the melting point of which is about seventy degrees. It is necessary to set the temperature of the iron to the minimum at which the paraffin will melt, and proceed to warm up the ski, smoothly running the iron from the toe to the heel of the ski. It is necessary to monitor the temperature of the iron and ensure that there is always a layer of paraffin on the iron and ski honey. This method of processing is suitable if you do not intend to further apply paraffin using an iron.

The main tools used in preparing skis:

1. used to remove wax residues. We recommend choosing a scraper with a special rounding so that it is convenient to remove paraffin from the grooves of the ski.
2. ... Used to remove wax residues after scraper skis. If you plan to use hot paraffin wax, then you definitely need such a brush.
3. ... Used to prepare new skis, to remove the lint left from the sander on the sliding surface. The cost of this tool is not great.
4. ... Non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. Used by professionals when applying expensive accelerators.
5. Sandpaper. It is used for sanding the ski pads in the classic style so that the ointment will stick better on it in the future. Not necessary. Any fine grit sandpaper is suitable for sanding.
6. Metallic cycle. Used to remove the old structure. An amateur will not need it. Cycling the ski requires a special machine and certain skills. But spoiling skis with this device is very simple.
7. with which a new temperature structure is applied to the sliding surface. For amateurs it is not necessary. Manufacturers apply sufficient structure.
8. ... It is used for preliminary cleaning of the ski structure and for removing old paraffins.
9. ... It is used to remove holding ointment and sliding paraffin. It is desirable to purchase. A very useful thing.
10. ... Used to smooth out holding ointments. Plastic rubbing is best used for ointments, and cork - for accelerating paraffins. A must-have tool.

Accessories.

Selection of ski waxes.

Depending on the skill level of the skier, you can either in our store or collect your own:

1) Minimum. Suitable for walking in the woods on plastic skis. You don't have to buy paraffin wax and a bunch of tools. It is enough to purchase a set of holding ointments. You need to lubricate the skis under the block, rubbing with a synthetic cork so that there is no recoil. This will be enough for walking.

Composition: three to four cans of holding ointment, with a temperature range from zero to minus fifteen degrees. And one rubbing cork.

2) Sufficient. Complete and intelligent ski maintenance kit. With it, you can ride in any weather, and even participate in some competitions.

Composition: minimum set plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, ski iron, remover, brush, scraper.

3) Advanced. A set that will fit well for a well-trained professional athlete.

Composition: a sufficient set plus a set of holding ointments with fluoride, a set of paraffins with fluoride, knurls, accelerators, sprays and emulsions.

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To achieve the set standard for cross-country skiing, it is necessary not only to train long and hard, but also to use professional ski equipment and accessories. First of all, pay attention to skis for skating or classic skiing, because how long you can maintain a high pace depends on their weight, dynamic characteristics and the quality of the sliding surface.

02.02.2018

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Getting your skis ready for serious competition takes a lot of experience, flair and maybe even luck. Professional ski teams have several people who prepare the skis, measure the humidity and air temperature. But everyone can prepare skis so that they glide well, for amateur skiing. This article was created with the aim of acquainting readers with the technique of applying paraffin, holding ointments, proper treatment of skis with brushes, etc.

Preparation of skating-style skis and the sliding part of classic skis.

For better skiing, the sliding surface of the ski must have a structure similar to the structure of snow, and slip ointments or paraffins must be applied to its surface, which would correspond to the weather conditions. The best ski glide can be obtained if the match between the ski structure and the wax is optimal.

The task of the ski structure is to minimize the contact of the sliding surface and the frictional force with the snow.

The surface structure is the pattern that remains on the plastic after processing skis on special machines. The structure can also be applied manually by knurling or cutting. The surface with a fine structure is suitable for cold weather and fine-grained snow. For warm weather, skis with a larger structure are used.

Types of ski structures applied with TOKO knurling.

Paraffin waxing on the ski.

If the paraffin is soft enough, then you can simply spread it on the ski. If it is hard, then it needs to be melted from the iron to the ski. There is an option to warm up a block of paraffin and make a smear on the ski. It doesn't matter which method you use, but enough wax should be applied to evenly cover the ski with a layer of 0.3 to 1 mm.

Melting paraffin wax with an iron.

After applying paraffin, it should be melted and smoothed over the ski with a heated iron. Ironing a ski is a dangerous procedure; it can overheat and ruin the plastic of the sliding surface. The temperature of the iron should be as low as possible, but sufficient to melt the wax. You need to run the iron on the ski quickly, without delays and frequent repetitions. There should always be a layer of paraffin between the iron and the sliding surface; when the sole of the iron and the ski are in contact, the plastic quickly overheats and swells. You cannot save paraffin, because there is a significant risk of ruining your skis. The surface of the iron should be cleaned from time to time with a rag.

Skating ski preparation.

Cleaning and surface preparation.

First, you need to treat the sliding surface of the ski several times with a brass or steel brush. You need to brush in one direction, from the toe to the heel of the ski. Then you need to apply a layer of ground paraffin and smooth it with an iron at a low temperature. Then you need to clean the surface of the ski with a scraper. The gutter is also cleaned with a special scraper. After such cleaning, a lot of paraffin remains, so it is necessary to treat the surface with a nylon brush. After this procedure, the ski surface must be sufficiently cleaned for further application of base and gliding waxes.

Apply one to three coats of warm wax. After the next layer is applied, the paraffin should cool for fifteen to twenty minutes. Then it needs to be brushed with a nylon scraper and brush. When preparing skis for a competition, a special graphite wax must be applied before sliding paraffin.

Apply the paraffin appropriate for the weather, then scrape it off with a scraper and brush: first with a horsehair brush, then with a fine steel hair brush - this gives additional structure, and a nylon brush at the end for final polishing.

After completing all the above procedures, the skis are ready for use.

1. Clean the surface from contamination with.	2. Apply base.	3. Smooth the wax evenly over the surface of the ski.
4. Remove the wax from the surface with.	5. Clean the groove with the special one.	6. Clean out the residual wax from the structure with.

Application of accelerators.

Solid accelerator.

Apply paraffin wax appropriate for the weather. Then apply the accelerator. Rub the cork over the surface of the ski until it is warm and set the ski aside for twenty minutes. Then you need to brush the surface. Repeat the procedure two to five times in order for the accelerator to hold better. The accelerator applied in this way must hold up to ten kilometers.

Fluorocarbon powder.

Prepare the ski sliding surface and apply base paraffin wax. Scrub it with a scraper and brush. Then apply paraffin for the given weather. Then repeat the procedure with a scraper and brush. Sprinkle the powder evenly over the sliding surface of the ski, then sweep over the surface, melting the powder. The temperature of the iron should be the same as indicated in the instructions for the powder. Then put the ski aside for twenty minutes or more. The final brushing is best done immediately before using the skis.

1. Preheat the sliding surface with.	2. Pour onto the surface.	3. Spread the accelerator evenly with the aid.
4. Melt the accelerator.	5. Remove excess accelerator.	6. Buff the surface before running with.

Emulsions.

Apply base paraffin and scrub and brush. Then apply a suitable paraffin for the weather and repeat the cleaning procedure. Then apply the emulsion and let it dry for five to ten minutes. Then rub with a cork until the ski warms up and again leave the ski alone for twenty minutes. After that, you can proceed to the final surface treatment with a brush.

1. Pre-polish the ski surface. Use the yellow side.	2. Spray at a distance of 10 cm from the ski and allow to dry at room temperature for 15 minutes.	3. Polish the surface with the white side.	4. Before the race, additionally polish the surface with a special one.

Preparation of classic style skis.

Preparation of the sliding surface.

The preparation of the sliding surface is carried out in the same way as the preparation of skating-style skis, but without processing the skis under the block. Do not apply paraffin under the shoe, only apply it to the toe and heel of the ski. You can calculate the length of the last yourself, and for this you need an assistant. To do this, you need to fasten on the skis on a flat floor and stand evenly on both feet. Ask an assistant to slide a piece of paper under the ski block and mark on the shoe where the sheet will rest against the sliding surface. This will determine your individual length of the effective repulsion surface. If you choose skis that are too rigid for your weight, then the length of the pads can be more than 70-75 cm - this will have a bad effect on the dynamic characteristics of the ski - you will not be able to push off with high quality and will lose sliding speed. Choose skis according to your weight and level of skiing.

The length of the pushing surface of a classic ski depends on the weight of the skier and on the stiffness of the skis, but should not be more than indicated in the figure.

Solid holding ointments.

Sand the pad for better adhesion of the ointment to the ski surface. This will help the ointment last longer. For the bottom layer, a ground ointment is used. Apply one layer of warmed ointment suitable for weather conditions, then smooth it out with an iron. Then a holding ointment is applied, which is also selected according to weather conditions. It is applied in four to six layers in the holding area. Each layer is rubbed with a cork.

1. Roughen the surface under the shoe with fine emery paper and then remove any dust from the surface.	2. Apply.		3. Rub the base ointment evenly into the surface with.
4. Apply the desired pad to the ski block.		5. Rub the ointment. It is recommended to apply at least 3-4 layers of ointment and rub each layer separately.

Liquid ointments - klisters.

You need to clean the block, as in the previous section. Then apply a layer of base klister, and on top a layer of klister for the given weather. This procedure is best done indoors. Then you need to warm up the layers of the klister with a hairdryer. Before using skis, cool them down for fresh air.

1. Roughen the surface under the last with fine emery paper and remove dust from the surface.	2. Apply.		3. Rub the klister and let it cool in the cold. Clean the iron from the remains of the base klister.
4. Apply in the area of ​​the shoe.		5. Rub the klister or fingers.

Cleaning the sliding surface.

It is easiest to clean the pad of ointment residues with an acrylic scraper. You can also use for this procedure. Apply it to the surface of the ski, wait half a minute and wipe off with paper.

The sliding surface of the ski should be cleaned several times per season. Gently apply primer wax, then melt it. The dirt should rise to the surface and can be easily removed along with the paraffin with a scraper. Then apply a suitable weather wax. It is better not to use solvent for cleaning skis, as after it you need to reapply ground paraffin. But the use of a solvent will be necessary if the klister hits the sliding surface of the ski..

For applying paraffin, it is best to use a special one. Because an ordinary household iron does not give an exact temperature. If you stop the iron at one point, or run it too often in the same place, you can ruin your skis.
- Before applying the slip ointment, swipe from the tip to the heel of the ski.
- After cleaning the surface, treat it as thoroughly as possible.
- can be used only in the holding areas, in no case do not apply it in places where slip paraffin is applied.
- When using, it is best to reduce the holding area by 3-4 centimeters and limit it with tape or fixed paper sheet. Do not use tape - it will leave sticky marks.
- Experience is very important in preparing skis. Use different combinations of ointments in your workouts and you will find the best one for the competition.
- Paraffin protects the sliding surface. For long-term storage, always apply, preferably.

Brushing the sliding surface.

Modern machining of the ski sliding surface gives it a certain structure. This structure allows water and air to drain well when rubbed against the snow, which ensures good glide. Therefore, it is very important to thoroughly clean the grooves of the structure from the remnants of the ointment in order to ensure the maximum gliding quality.

Paraffin waxed ski structure. All pores and grooves are filled with hot paraffin wax.	The structure of the ski is treated with a scraper. There is still a lot of paraffin in the recesses, which will interfere with moisture removal.	Ski structure after brushing. Several types of brushes can be used to clean and polish the surface to a perfectly clean condition.

After paraffin is applied to the sliding surface and removed with a scraper, the grooves of the structure remain filled with paraffin. In order to completely clean them, you must use brushes. They are tame and. The use of stiff metal or nylon brushes completely removes wax residues.

When using a brush (of any kind), do not press it too tightly against the sliding surface of the ski. The most effective way to remove paraffin is from brushes whose villi are at right angles. If you press too hard on the brush, the fibers will begin to bend and slide over the surface instead of cleaning it.

For cleaning skis of old grease and preparing it for applying new grease, metal brushes are best. Hard metal fibers perfectly remove the remnants of new ointments, dirt and plastic oxidation products, thereby opening pores on the sliding surface, which contributes to better absorption of new ointments.

Metal brushes are also needed to improve the glide properties of the skis. Skis that have been sanded should be brushed (preferably with steel bristles). After such treatment, the structure of the sliding surface will become better, since the brush will remove burrs and other dirt and irregularities.

Preparing skis for the competition.

First of all, the surface of the skis should be primed.
- Then apply graphite paraffin by hot method. This movement prevents multiple layers of wax from mixing and increases the lubrication time.
- Next, cool the ski to room temperature, and then scrape it.
- Brush the surface with a horsehair rotary brush and then a hand brush with a fine metal bristle.
- Then proceed with the hot application of the weather-appropriate paraffin.
- Then hydrocarbon or low-fluoride paraffin is applied, it binds best to the previous layer of paraffin and the porous surface of the ski.
- Let this layer cool, work with a scraper and the same brushes.
- Then apply the high-fluoride paraffin using a hot method.
- Let it cool and repeat the procedure with a scraper and brushes.
- The preparation process is completed with the application of a fluorocarbon grease that is suitable for the weather conditions.
- After that, the sliding surface should be polished with polishing brushes.

If you are using a fluorocarbon lubricant, it is best to have a second set of brushes. The brushes you use with paraffin wax should not be used when handling fluorocarbon grease.

Competition ski primer.

In the open air, the plastic of the ski sliding surface begins to oxidize and loses its ability to absorb ointments. This can be seen by the resulting gray coating. To avoid this process, after cleaning the skis, a layer of ground paraffin should be applied.
Clean the old ointment from the surface of the ski with a brush. Rotary is desirable, but any other is possible, but always with a metal pile. Don't be afraid to spend your time pretreating the ski surface with a fine rotary brass or steel brush. After this treatment, the surface of the ski will absorb the grease better, and the grease will last longer. For best results, treat the sliding surface with fibertex. It will smooth out small defects and burrs, and the ski surface will become smoother.

Next, you need to apply a layer of soft paraffin to the ski surface. It is best to use soil wax or transport wax, but you can use soft wax for warm weather. Then you need to melt the paraffin with an iron at the temperature specified in the instructions. Let the ski cool and scrub and brush. First with a horsehair rotary brush, then with a fine metal bristle rotary brush. A fine-bristled hand brush can be used instead of the latter. Finish with a gray or white nylon brush.

The procedure described above is called hot cleaning the skis. The soft paraffin wax is removed from the pores of the sliding surface along with old grease and dirt.

After cleaning, you can start priming the sliding surface. Medium hard paraffin is applied to the surface of the ski. Then time is given to cool it down. Residual paraffin wax is removed with a scraper and brushed as previously described. This procedure can be repeated several times. The more times you apply paraffin wax, brush it, the better your skis will glide. With each repetition of the procedure, the paraffin will further enter the structure of the sliding surface of the ski, protecting it from oxidation. The brushing process is similar to the skiing process, so when brushing, the skis become smoother, which improves their glide.

The temperature that the ski sliding surface can withstand.

Do not process a sliding surface with temperatures over 150 degrees. When the temperature is exceeded, the characteristics of the plastic change, it stops absorbing new ointment. In such cases, the ski needs to be looped in order to open the pores in the upper layers of the plastic.

Do not set the iron to too high a temperature. Avoid fumes when melting paraffin wax. Heat the ointment with an iron from the middle to the toe and heel of the ski. The risk of burning plastic is higher where the thickness of the plastic is thinnest. The instructions for each product must indicate the desired temperature.

How the ski surface heats up when using a rotary plug and brushes.

Remember to keep the iron in constant motion. The same goes for the rotary plug. Surface at low speed first. Then repeat the procedure at high rpm. The surface of the ski after processing should be warm, but not hot.

When to cycle your skis.

There are many cases where the sliding surface of skis oxidizes. Therefore, the ointment is not properly absorbed into the sliding surface. But skis can always be looped by removing the plastic layer and applying a new structure. Many skis will deform over time after sanding. The surface becomes very uneven, which leads to a significant decrease in sliding. In such cases, it is best to re-sand the ski and remove the old structure.

Handling competition-prepared skis.

If you finished preparing the skis only the night before, then before the competition itself it is better to brush them again with brushes. Skis that are not brushed will not provide optimal glide.

Grease

The preparation of skis for skating and classic moves is significantly different, this is due to a number of features and specifics of both the skis themselves, and the differences in the push-slide phases during these moves.

An important thing when preparing skis is that their surface must be dry, clean and at room temperature!

There is also a difference in the preparation of plastic and wooden skis(plastic skis also belong to the plastic floor). Everything related to the use of paraffins (sliding lubricants), powders, accelerators and other special preparations for preparation applies only to plastic skis and skis with a plastic sliding base. As for the ointment, it is applied equally to both wooden and plastic skis.

Lubrication selection is a very complicated procedure, almost an art. Trainers and lubricators of teams spend months, if not years, gaining experience in handling and working with materials and accessories from various manufacturers. Unfortunately, their knowledge and experience is usually kept secret and passed on only to teammates. But in many cities, service centers are already appearing (at the end), at ski resorts and rentals, where the preparation of skis, for a purely symbolic fee, is carried out by specialists. Of course, the cost of such a service will largely depend on the cost of the materials with which the preparation was carried out, but on the other hand, the person will get great pleasure from the skiing itself, receive competent advice, qualified ski care and remove the very problem of lubrication and preparation selection.

For those who want to prepare their own skis, there are some rules and recommendations outlined below. Basically, when choosing a lubricant, they are guided by their financial capabilities, since often the quality of materials is determined by their price (although exceptions are possible).

The market of lubricants and service materials is becoming more and more saturated every year and the task of the sales assistant is to help the buyer choose the best option. It is generally accepted to consider the company "Swix" as the world leader in the production of lubricants (although it is very conditional and controversial). There are also such foreign brands as: “START”, “Briko” and many others, but all of them are distinguished by the high price of materials, while the best result is not guaranteed. This is due to the different climatic conditions “here” and in Russia. After all, grease of the same brand, in different climatic zones, in different regions, at the same temperature and humidity, works completely differently, and sometimes does not work at all. Although she could show an excellent result. All this applies equally to domestic lubricants. Their choice is not as great as the choice of imported ones, but their price is several orders of magnitude lower, and the quality is sometimes not inferior, and sometimes even surpasses the imported counterparts.

Among them are: "LUCH" Yekaterinburg, "M VIS" Moscow, "ANCOR" Kirov. Of course, the eminent “Visty” N. Novgorod, which for many years have been the sales leaders in Russia and are popular not so much because of the quality, but because of the price.

Skate course.

Due to the fact that the entire sliding surface of the ski "works" in the skating course, which is associated with the peculiarity of the push, therefore the entire surface is subject to maintenance and treatment. The preparation of skis for skating is as follows: paraffin is applied to dry, clean skis, on the entire sliding surface by rubbing, or, if the paraffin is refractory, it is better to apply it by jet-drip from a hot iron, when a block of applied paraffin is pressed against the sole of a heated service iron. Do not overheat the paraffin wax! After cooling, the paraffin is removed with a plastic scraper. Residues of small particles of paraffin are “torn out” from the pores of the plastic with hard copper or synthetic brushes. Then the surface is polished with a soft natural bristle brush. This procedure is necessary to give the particles of the fused paraffin a directional structure.

The classic move.

The difficulty of preparing skis for classic move, consists in the need to use a holding ointment. Before applying it to the sliding ends of the skis (dry and clean), apply a sliding lubricant (paraffin), in the above order, while the block, or as it is also called, the cargo area, is left clean. This is due to the fact that the ointment applied to paraffin in the process of sliding significantly loses its original qualities and, in addition to everything, the duration of its action is reduced by an order of magnitude. Simply put, it simply “does not hold” and very quickly comes off the surface of the ski.

Ointment, like paraffin, is selected according to the temperature and humidity indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. It is applied by rubbing, not too thick layer, "under the block", as some skiers say. Then the applied ointment is rubbed with a natural or synthetic cork until a shiny uniform film appears on the ski surface. You should not "pull" the ointment over the surface of the skis, either up or down.

It is possible to level the ointment with a service iron, while it must be clean (from paraffin residues), and not too hot so as not to overheat the ointment! In general, when choosing inventory, first of all, you need to be based on the wishes of each client and his individual characteristics, such as the length of arms and legs, height and weight, and their proportional ratio. It is impossible not to note the decisive role of the client's financial capabilities in the selection of inventory, lubricants and accessories, because the "limited wallet size" will significantly narrow the choice possible options and models from the offered assortment. Therefore, the selection of equipment, inventory, lubricants and accessories is a creative process, but complex and time consuming. Although it can be exciting both for the sales assistant (if he is well prepared) and for the buyer himself.

Shishkin Pavel Pavlovich
Kirov LLC "Ankor.Sport".