Cross-country skiing are divided into racing, amateur and tourist. As a rule, the purpose is indicated on the product card.
- Racing (marked Racing and Racing PRO). Such skis are designed for athletes and amateurs who want to develop speed indicators. This is an option for specially prepared tracks.
- Amateur or walking (Active, Fitness). This is an option for those who sometimes choose to ride in the park, do it for fun and do not strive for records. Skis are slightly wider than racing skis; expensive materials and technologies are rarely used in their production.
- Tourist (Back Country). These are skis for hunters, tourists and fishermen, people who need to move around, without a piste or ski track. Such skis are much wider than walking skis in order to support the weight of a person on loose snow.
Skiing
Classic skis (designation Classic or Cl) are longer than skates, have a sharp toe and a soft last. There may be notches under the last (designation TR) to prevent slipping during push-off. On the left - a ski with notches, on the right - without.
andrewskurka.com If the ski has no notches (WAX designation), a special ointment provides an anti-slip effect. However, for beginners, it will be quite difficult to apply it correctly, so a notched ski is the best option.
To find the size classic skis, add 20 cm to your height or just raise your hand: the lowered palm of the outstretched hand should touch the top of the ski.
It is also worth paying attention to the stiffness of the skis. First, determine the center of gravity: place the ski on your hand so that both ends are in balance. Then fold the skis with the sliding side towards each other and squeeze with one hand 3 cm below the found center of balance. There will be a distance of 1–1.5 mm between skis of suitable stiffness.
What to buy
Boots
Boots for classic skis are low and soft, without special inserts that fix the leg.
You shouldn't buy shoes back to back. If the thumb rests on the toe of the boot, the foot will quickly freeze. It is better to take boots half a size larger.
What to buy
Sticks
When choosing poles for classic skiing, pay attention to their length. With short ones, it will be inconvenient for you to walk on flat terrain, with long ones - climbing the slopes. Choose sticks according to your height: the lanyard exit (the place where the strap is attached to the stick) should be at the level of your shoulder.
Poles are made from aluminum, fiberglass and carbon fiber. Aluminum can bend under load. So if you weigh a lot, opt for glass and carbon fiber. The latter provides the greatest rigidity and lightness of the poles. These sticks are used by professional athletes.
marax.ru Also pay attention to the material of the handle. Sticks with a cork handle are good for walking in cold weather: cork does not cool your hand, unlike plastic.
Skiing
Skis for skating(designations Skate or Sk) are shorter and have a smooth last, because with this stroke the notches only get in the way, clinging to the snow and slowing down.
To find the ideal length for skating skis, add 5-10 cm to your height.
It is also worth checking the stiffness of the skis. The gap between skis compressed with one hand should be 1.5–2 mm.
What to buy
Boots
To prevent injury and excessive stress on the foot during skating, additional fixation is needed. Therefore, skate boots are taller and stiffer than classic ones and are supplemented with a special plastic cuff.
What to buy
Sticks
Skating sticks are longer than classic ones. The lanyard should be at the level of the skier's chin or lips.
How to choose versatile skis, boots and poles
If you plan to master both classic and skating, you can purchase versatile equipment.
Skiing
Universal skis (Combi designation) are longer than skate skis, but shorter than classic skis. Add 15 cm to your height to determine the length you want.
Regarding notches, some versatile skis have a replaceable center: if you want to ski in a classic style, use notches; if in a ridge, remove the notched nozzle.
What to buy
Boots
Boots for general-purpose skis are almost indistinguishable from classic ones. They are just as soft and flexible, but have a plastic cuff that supports the ankle.
What to buy
Sticks
For universal skis, poles for both classic and skating are suitable.
What are the mounts
Three types of mounts are now common: the outdated NN 75, NNN (with or without NIS platform) and SNS.
sprint5.ru Surely many people remember this mount from childhood. This is a common metal brace that fixes the leg, but it does it pretty badly.
With NN 75 it is almost impossible to skate. In addition, good boots are not produced for this mount. The only advantage is the low price.
What to buy
NNN (New Nordic Norm)
Automatic mount NNN / spine.ru This mount consists of two rails (flexors) spaced at some distance
from each other, and the rubber stop.
There are two options for such mounts: automatic and mechanical. The automatic NNN fastening snaps into place by simply pressing the bracket with the boot. In the case of a mechanical one, you will have to open the lid with your hands, and after installing the boot, close it.
Mechanical fasteners NNN / manaraga.ru However, the mechanical fastening is more reliable: it cannot accidentally unfasten, for example, during a fall. In addition, if you plan to ski in warm weather, water trapped in the auto mount can freeze and block it tightly.
Also, fasteners differ in the degree of rigidity. If the NNN rubber stop is white, the mount is designed for hard riding, if it is green, for softer riding. Black stops are suitable for standard riding, and red ones for soft riding.
If you prefer skating, choose bindings with white or green rubber bands. If classic - with black or red.
To mount the NNN on skis, you need to find the center of gravity and drill a hole for the bindings. However, there is an easier and more convenient installation method: special platforms NIS.
Mount NNN NIS / dostupny-sport.ru The Nordic Integrated System (NIS) was developed in 2005 for NNN mounts. Skis adapted for NIS are equipped with a special plate on which the bindings are mounted. The skis do not need to be drilled, it is enough to wind the mount along the guide plates and snap into place.
The mount is easy to install and remove, eliminates the search for the center of gravity of the ski and can be used with different pairs of skis.
What to buy
This mount has one wide rail and two brackets. SNS mounts are also divided into automatic and mechanical.
shamov-russia.ru Unlike NNN, SNS only has three levels of hardness. They are marked with a numerical value and color. For classic move it is worth choosing mounts with flexor stiffness 85 (yellow), for ridge - 115 (red), and for universal use - 95 (pink).
When it comes to comfort, stability and lateral stability, there is little difference between SNS and NNN mounts.
Most cross-country ski boots are designed for a specific type of binding. Therefore, first choose boots that fit perfectly on your feet, and only then the bindings that fit them.
Due to NIS, NNN mounts are more convenient to install, but SNS are more stable: because of the NNN platform, they turn out to be higher than SNS screwed on. On the other hand, a higher position increases the thrust force. In general, both bindings are used by both amateurs and professional athletes.
What to buy
What materials to choose
Skis made from solid logs or glued layers of wood are a thing of the past. In modern models, wood is also used, but, as a rule, the core consists of it, and the sliding surface is made of plastic.
If you are used to skiing with a sliding surface made of wood, the plastic can feel uncomfortable due to the recoil. Plastic is more slippery and, unlike wood, does not "ruffle" when rubbed against snow.
However, with proper lubrication of plastic skis, recoil can be avoided. As for the advantages, plastic skis are more durable and, unlike wooden skis, allow you to ski in freezing temperatures.
According to the manufacturing method, skis are divided into Sandwich and Cap. The former are several glued layers of plastic and wood, the latter are a wooden core with a monolithic plastic cover.
For cheaper skis, the core is made of wood with air channels. In professional and more expensive ones, it is a wooden honeycomb or is made on the basis of acrylic foam with a carbon and fiberglass mesh, light polyurethane foam with carbon and fiberglass inserts (Polycell technology), Densolite foam or other light synthetic materials.
The sliding surface is made of different types plastic. For cheaper options, extruded plastic is used, for more expensive options, high-molecular-weight universal plastic.
Many new technologies and materials are now being used that keep the ski lightweight and at the same time durable. However, all this affects the price.
Therefore, if you are a beginner, it is worth trying a regular ski with a wood or Densolite foam core and an extruded or high molecular weight plastic sliding surface. The price of such skis depends on the specific brand and ranges from 2,000 to 8,000 rubles.
What brands to pay attention to
Among the well-known Russian manufacturers is the STC factory. She makes both racing and recreational Sable skis and fiberglass ski poles.
Professional models - with a honeycomb core and sliding surface PTEX 2000 (carbon fiber), and amateur models - with a wooden core and plastic cover. Skis are made using Cap technology and are sold at very affordable prices.
Among foreign brands (whose products are often made in Russian factories, including STC), the Austrian manufacturer of skis and equipment Fischer is quite popular.
Fischer manufactures professional and recreational skis for men, women and children, using combined materials such as a wooden core with Air Tec Basalight. Fischer skis can be purchased at a price of 5,000 rubles.
No less famous is the French ski brand Rossignol, which is produced in Spain and Ukraine. The cheapest amateur skis with a core made of light wood and a sliding surface made of plastic can be bought for 5,500-6,000 rubles. Almost all skis of this brand are equipped with the NIS platform.
The third brand from the rating is the Norwegian company Madshus. The recreational skis of this brand are made using Cap technology with a wood core with channels, glass and carbon fiber braiding and a sliding surface made of plastic. The cost of the cheapest skis of this brand is 3,000-5,000 rubles.
At about the same price range, the cheapest amateur skis of the Austrian brand Atomic and the French company Salomon. Cheaper Salomon models have a Densolite dry foam core and sliding surface with the addition of graphite, more expensive, professional - honeycomb cores and a sliding surface with the addition of zeolite.
Each brand develops its own technologies: lighter cores, the addition of various minerals to improve glide, changing the geometry of the skis. Therefore, it is best to focus on the purpose of the skis (for which course, walking or sports) and the availability of a suitable length and stiffness for you.
Tips from our reader
Nadezhda Starostina - multiple winner All-Russian competitions on orienteering, medalist of the European Games of Veterans of Sports, participant of the World Championships in orienteering, "Master of Sports" of the USSR.
I suggest skiing, that is, walking. When you walk, and not rush headlong, through the park or through the forest, you may notice that winter has finally come, squirrels in gray fur coats, snow-covered dark green Christmas trees with red-brown cones. But a hare ran, left traces. A mouse was running here, tiny little tracks. And there is a bird sitting on that tree, and so beautiful.
You will see all the charms of the winter forest if everything is in order with the inventory: the boots are not tight and it is not cold in them, clothes for the weather, skis and poles are selected for you, beloved.
Notched skis are best for walking. ... The skis are now all plastic. Wooden skis, who have remained, require constant care. You need to apply ointment on them, both for sliding and for holding, so that they do not give off. Then this ointment needs to be removed somehow. Honestly, I have already forgotten how we did it in the seventies. Something had to do with gas burners.
Notched plastic skis for skiing enthusiasts have minimal maintenance.
First, special washes are sold. But you can use regular turpentine. The notches prevent kickback, i.e. slip when pushing off. Ointments can also be applied to the sliding surface of the skis for the weather.
The length of the ski should be 15-20cm higher than your height ... For skating, the skis are not high, they are either with your height or 10-15cm taller than your height. Ski poles for walking should be at shoulder level or above armpit level by 2-3 cm.
Those. a 160cm woman buys 180cm or 175cm skis and 135-140cm poles. With high sticks, above the shoulder, you will get tired of raising your hands. High poles are suitable for skating. They are selected on the shoulder or slightly higher by 2-3 cm. So better push... Be sure to put the sticks on your hands correctly. The loop on the handle of the ski pole is called the lanyard. You need to stick your hand into it and press the lanyard to the stick between your thumb and the remaining four fingers.
A picture from Suvorov Park, where a physical education lesson is taking place on skis: the teacher does not pay attention to how the children have ski poles on their hands and poor children drag these poles behind them or try to push with improperly worn poles. The push will not work. Children are already bad on skis, and there is almost no ski track - the road is pedestrian, there is no sliding, they got tangled up with sticks. And how can you fall in love with skiing after such a lesson?
Very good skiing for walking by the French company DYNAMIC. They are notched so that there is no recoil. They do not need to be greased. Ski maintenance is minimal. They are usually sold with mounts and cost about RUB 3,300. And this is a very good price. We also need boots, which DYNAMIC also have and are also inexpensive. And if the boots are already in stock, then you need to choose mounts for them.
Ski boots DYNAMIC
Gone are the tarpaulin cold boots, they were replaced by insulated boots that do not get snow. Ski socks are available at Decathlon or Sportmaster stores. On the body, the first layer is necessarily thermal underwear. In it, even if you sweat, you will not freeze. Unlike T-shirts, cotton or woolen products, which, when wet, take away all the heat.
Women's ski underwear (Decatlon)
The second layer is a fleece jacket and a light jacket. Hands are better than mittens, which have a durable coating on the palm. Again, sold at Decathlon or Sportmaster. Gloves are good at zero and above zero temperatures.
I wish you a good choice.
Nadezhda Starostina
Winter is coming. In some places, snow has already fallen and covered the ground. Almost everything is ready for skiing in the winter snowy forest. Almost everything except the skis themselves! After all, you first need to buy them, and not make a mistake in choosing. How to choose the right skis for walking in the winter forest, we will tell and show you in this article. Read our tips, watch videos and photos, and buy skis for yourself and your child wisely!
Not always in sports stores you will be able to correctly advise something for choosing skis. Sellers want to sell the product and get their money. Therefore, we carefully study the tips in order to enjoy the whole winter from buying and skiing skis.
The choice of skis by height.
The very first thing you should do is choose the correct ski length. And you can do this based on your height.
If you are going to ski in a classic way, which is more acceptable in the forest, then you need skis that are 25-30 centimeters longer than you. If you prefer to skate, then you need short skis which are 10-15 centimeters larger than your height. This is due to the riding technique. After all, the longer the skis, the more difficult it is to skate on them.
It so happens that you do not know how you will ride. In this case, we will advise you to choose skis that will be 20 centimeters longer than your height (plus or minus a few centimeters!).
Never buy skis that are smaller than your height or on the same level as you! Even if you liked them, they are discounted and the seller recommends them! You will not enjoy skiing with these skis!
The choice of skis by weight.
Yes, your weight plays a lot too important role when choosing skis. How to choose skis by weight? To do this, it is enough to take a regular sheet of paper with you to the store. When you have chosen skis for your height, then these skis need to be put on a flat floor. After that, you stand on them in those places where you will have boots. When you get up, slide a piece of paper under the skis. If the sheet passes, that is, the skis are not firmly pressed to the ground, and you can spring on them, then these are your skis. If the skis are firmly pressed to the floor and the sheet of paper does not go through, then you need more resilient skis.
Keep in mind that firmer skis that fit your weight make it easier and more enjoyable to ski. If the skis are fully pressed into the snow, your ride will be difficult and your glide will be weak!
Choosing skis with or without notch?
It all depends on your skiing skills. If you are confident and know how to ski, then skis without notches are suitable for you. And if you are afraid of falling, do not hold well on skis, then take skis with notches.
The notches are needed so that the skis do not slip, and do not roll back from the mountain.
But keep in mind that the notches on the skis will slow you down. Notches stop sliding. And it will be more difficult for you to drive forward!
What else should you pay attention to?
Also, take the time to look at the fold of the skis. It should be uniform. If the bend is sharp, then such skis will slow down. If the fold is small, then this is also not a fast ski. The fold helps the skis glide over the snow. Therefore, he knows how to do a lot of important!
Also, take your skis in hand and look at them. They don't have to be a screw! Skis must be straight! If the skis went with a screw, then this is a marriage, and it will not be possible to ride them!
But you should not pay attention to small scratches. They will still appear on skis as soon as you get on them for the first time. But still, the scratches shouldn't be deep! If you are on the piste for the first time, or how to spend a minimum of money and at the same time get the most out of your skiing.
Introductory part. Who is this article for. What this article is for.
There are cross-country skiing conferences on the internet. From time to time, people who come to these conferences, mostly beginners in skiing, ask me questions about the choice of equipment. Over time, answers have accumulated that I wanted to somehow formalize.This article should answer the basic questions that arise for a person who decides to buy skis for himself and his family, and does not have much skiing experience, with the exception of skiing in physical education classes at school. As a rule, after this a lot of time passes, inventory, technologies, lubricants change, and a person ceases to navigate in this modern abundance. Unfortunately, the stores do not always have qualified sellers who are able to thoroughly answer the questions that arise. As one of those whom I helped with advice wrote, "I was in the AAA store yesterday. Not a single question was answered. They have no catalog and no consultants." or "Was in the BBB store in the summer. Hour" tortured "the seller. I learned nothing except the price." In addition, one of the tasks of sellers, no matter what they say, is to "promote" the buyer to buy more expensive inventory, it sits in the subconscious of even the most conscientious sellers. Therefore, when you come to buy, you must clearly know what you need.
I will try to tell you how to spend a minimum of money and at the same time get the most out of skiing for myself and my family.
Ski selection
And yet plastic ...
First, a lyrical digression about wooden skis. Nowadays, skis with a plastic sliding surface are mainly sold (although wood continues to be used in the construction of the ski). A person who has skied on wooden skis, when switching to plastic skis, is usually faced with a very unpleasant phenomenon - a strong recoil, which turns skiing from pleasure into real torment. A person is perplexed - I would have gone N kilometers long ago on pieces of wood, but here I have to barely move my legs, and why I bought this plastic. It is especially offensive if such a person buys plastic skis not for himself, but for his child, turning physical education lessons for him into a humiliating crawling, forever instilling an aversion to skiing. What's the matter? This is because plastic skis are much more slippery than wooden skis. Firstly, when rubbing against snow, the wood gets pretty ruffled, which practically does not happen with plastic, and then remember how you used to smear wooden skis with HOLDING ointment along the entire length, only sometimes a slightly warmer ointment was added under the block. These two factors ensured that there was no tangible return. Now, when buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be smeared, or they put an ointment under the block that matches the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as they used to smear wooden ones. So, recoil on plastic skiing can be avoided, but we will talk more about this in the section on lubrication. And in terms of sliding properties, plastic is much better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if on wooden skis it is not worth trying to go into freezing temperatures, then on plastic your season can become much longer. So don't be afraid to buy plastic skis.Start with the classics
When choosing skis, a lot depends on what level you are skiing, and what style you are going to mainly run, classic or skate. Unfortunately, different styles require different inventory. There are so-called "universal" skis, but if you choose their length and stiffness optimal for a classic ride, then skating on them will be, let's say, uncomfortable. In addition, the question of changing the lubrication system will arise - in classic shoes, the block is smeared with holding ointments, and in order for the ointment to last longer, the block is usually sanded. Ridge skates require a smooth sliding surface along the entire length, and are completely lubricated with sliding lubricants (paraffins). And with the classic ones, it is contraindicated to lubricate the block with paraffin. If you then apply a holding ointment on this paraffin (or even its remnants), then it will disappear very quickly. In general, do not combine the incompatible. (But at the same time, do not shy away from the word "universal" - these are completely normal skis, just select the length and stiffness according to the style of skiing).Therefore, if there is a desire to try both styles and the means allow, it is better to take two sets, and if they do not allow, then stop at the classics. The ridge requires wide prepared tracks, and there are not many of them. And people build a ski track for the classics in any forest or park. That is, there are many times more places for skiing. Also, keep in mind that prepared skating tracks are most often laid on difficult terrain with large ups and downs - along hills and ravines, and are designed for trained athletes. It is not easy for a beginner to overcome such a route, you can "get up" after the second or third ascent. And you can't drag your family along such a route with you. (If there is a good (and easy) skating track near you, you are in luck. In that case, the skating style is definitely worth a try.)
What skis should a beginner choose?
First, about the prices. Racing skis at the top of the lineup of renowned brands such as Fischer, Atomic, Madschus, Rossignol, etc. usually cost between $ 200 and $ 350. Inexpensive domestic ones such as STC, Karelia (Sorsu) can cost less than $ 35. Mass (amateur) models of famous brands cost in the region of $ 70-100. If you are a beginner, take our skis, unless, of course, you are concerned about your "image". You can keep within 30-35 dollars with quite decent quality. And when you gain experience and sports training, then you yourself will understand what you need and where to go. An exception is if you have heavy weight, say, over 70 kg. The main trouble with inexpensive skis is that it is very difficult to find among them suitable for your weight. Here you will have to move to a different price range and choose mass models of well-known brands. We will return to this issue below.How do branded skis differ from those made here, in Russia? The quality of the top models of famous brands, of course, is still unattainable for our manufacturer. Designed for high-class competitive skiers, these skis are manufactured in special workshops, usually in the countries where the company is located. The design of such skis is quite complex and is simulated on a computer. Before launching into production, new developments are thoroughly tested by qualified athletes. In the manufacture, expensive materials are used, which often come from the aerospace industries. The production culture at such factories is very high, all skis are extensively tested on special computerized stands. All this together makes it possible to produce top-class skis. You can learn more about the production of skis by reading the magazine "Skiing" №№ 17, 10 and other issues. However, the bulk of the money manufacturers make is from mass-market skiing, which requires much more than elite skiers. And here the situation is completely different. Let's give an analogy with computer technology. It is no secret that components for mass production of even such well-known firms like IBM, Hewlett-Packard and others are mostly manufactured in Southeast Asia, such as Taiwan. The story is similar with mass skiing. It is more profitable for brand owners to place orders for production where it is cheaper, and to develop skis and produce top models themselves. Accordingly, there are huge factories that produce skis of different brands, including those under their own brand. There are such factories in the Czech Republic, Estonia, Ukraine (Mukachevo, owned by Fischer), and we have an STC factory in Russia. The latter, for example, produces skis for Madshus, Karhu, Peltonen. So most of the cheap skis of these brands in our country are made in Russia, as are the inexpensive Madshus and Karhu ski poles. And their own skis and poles under the STC brand differ from them mainly appearance and at a lower cost.
Now more about the difference between professional racing skis and mass skis designed for amateurs. The high cost of technologies and materials used in racing skis is dictated by the desire of manufacturers to provide the highest technical parameters that allow them to achieve victories in competitions. Often these parameters are difficult to match, such as the weight of the ski and their stiffness. This forces the use of materials with improved characteristics, but which are much more expensive - carbon fiber, honeycomb filling, expensive acrylic foam. For the sliding surface, high molecular weight polyethylene with various additives is used, obtained from the powder during sintering under pressure and at high temperature. Such a porous plastic is harder, and is able to absorb much more paraffin, which allows the lubricant to hold on long distances... In addition, different weather conditions and piste preparation are required for skiing. different requirements... Therefore, in the world of racing skis, specialization is widespread, allowing you to achieve the best glide in certain conditions, but forcing you to have several pairs of skis. There are models specifically designed for wet and dry snow, or for hard and soft tracks, or even, like Madshus, 4 options: soft for dry and wet snow and hard for dry and wet (multiply by 2 since skis are available for skate and for the classics). In addition, designers compete in ski parameters such as torsional stiffness, course stability, vibration damping and ski handling when fast sliding on the slopes and others. An analogy with the world of automobiles is appropriate here. There are many good cars that allow you to drive quickly and comfortably on different roads in different weather. But as soon as we are talking about competitions where the price of victory is very high, for example, in Formula 1, there immediately arises a need for exceptional design solutions and specialization. These are expensive materials, rubber for specific surfaces and weather conditions, precise tuning of the suspension for each track and rubber, and a lot of other technical nuances. Accordingly, racing cars and skis are best at showing their exceptional qualities on specially prepared tracks. As it is difficult to imagine racing on a McLaren on the roads near Moscow, you should not expect super speed from a racing ski on a broken loose track, trodden in the nearest forest. The simpler model is more appropriate here.
Recreational (mass) skis are versatile and suitable for most weather conditions. They use cheaper materials. Therefore, they are a little heavier. For example, if the weight of a pair of racing skis is about 1 kg, then amateur skis weigh on average 1.4 - 1.5 kg. The inexpensive extruded plastic of the sliding surface absorbs less paraffin, and, accordingly, the lubricant does not last as long on the ski. But this does not really matter if your usual "norm" does not exceed 10-15 km. As it is written in Ivan Kuzmin's article "For parents of growing skiers" in LS # 8, it is generally accepted that the weight deflection of a ski determines 60% of the sliding properties of skis, 20% is determined by the material, condition and structure of the ski sliding surface, and the last 20% is determined by the lubrication of the skis. Therefore, by successfully choosing skis for your weight, you will get excellent driving characteristics, even if their sliding surface is not made of the most expensive plastic.
Another argument in favor of inexpensive skis - if you mainly walk in the woods with your family, then such skis will serve you faithfully for many years. And if you want to improve as a skier, and buy yourself racing models, then these unpretentious skis will remain for you for the first and last snow, on which it is a pity to tear expensive skis.
There are skis with a notch under the shoe. They seem to hold well on soft snow. And they are attractive in that, as buyers often assume, they do not need to be smeared. (In fact, they still need to be lubricated - this is what the manufacturers recommend). But I would not recommend such, unless you really want to mess with grease at all. Why? Firstly, in terms of driving performance, ordinary ones are certainly better. And secondly, skis without a notch are more versatile. The notch will work well on a medium-soft track, but not on a rolled hard (or icy) track and not on a loose track. And conventional skis can be easily adapted to changing conditions by changing the holding ointment and changing the length of the lubricated block. In addition, over time, the notch will wear out and its holding properties will deteriorate. But in general, taking or not taking skis with a notch is a matter of taste.
How to choose skis
As stated above, 60% weight deflection determines the ski's ride performance. Therefore, the selection of skis for this parameter is the main thing in the selection process. The weight deflection or stiffness of individual parts of the ski along its length determines the distribution of the ski pressure on the snow under the weight of the skier. This characteristic is also called a ski plot. Here is a typical picture for a classic ski (ATOMIC ARC Cap Classic K, pictures taken from www.ernordic.com): |
The upper part of the figure shows the distribution of pressure on the snow with increasing load at about half the weight of the skier when the skier is riding on two skis. In the lower part, the pressure distribution during the push with one foot, when the block with the holding ointment is pressed into the snow. For skating skis, the picture will be different, since they should not have maximum pressure under the block during the push (ATOMIC ATC Racing Skate):
That is, skating skis should be tougher than classic skis for the same skier.
A good ski should bend evenly, in proportion to the effort applied. Otherwise, in some areas of the ski, excessive pressure on the snow may appear, which will lead to braking of the ski and a quick loss of lubrication in these areas. Here are pictures from an article by V. Smolyanov (Journal of Medicine No.…).
You can check the ski plot only on rather sophisticated equipment. Therefore, in the store you will have to use other techniques that indirectly determine the quality of the weight deflection of the skis.
So you've come to the store ... Suppose you've already decided on your skiing style, price range, and possibly ski models.
The procedure can be as follows:
1. Look at several pairs of skis that are suitable for you. For classic skis, the length should be the height of the skier + 25-30 cm, for skating the height of the skier + 10-15 cm.
2. Check the geometry of the skis. (If they are crooked, then further procedures do not make sense, put them aside). Do not rely entirely on the reputation of a well-known brand. "Trust but check". Look along the ski from the side of the sliding surface. The ski should not be bent in the longitudinal direction (the groove should be straight), there should be no "screw" - the lines across the toe and heel of the sliding surface should be parallel.Turn the ski sideways, look along - the sliding surface should have a uniform smooth bend without bumps, depressions or sharp bends.
3. Match your skis according to their stiffness.
For the classics, the most correct definition of stiffness is this: find approximately the centers of gravity for each ski (hold the ski with two fingers on the sidewalls). Lay them parallel to each other on an even floor with a sliding surface (if the store will allow you to do this, take a spread newspaper just in case). If skis with straight geometry, that is, the width of the ski is the same along the entire length (not side cut), and the sidewall is flat (skis are not made using CAP technology (cap)), then it is easy to check the floor - put the ski on its side, it should fit snugly against floor. Then stand on the skis with both feet so that the centers of gravity are at the beginning of the toes of the boots. And then I quote "Short course of discipline Skiing"RGAFK:" Suitable skis, taking into account the weight of the athlete, are those skis whose sliding surfaces under the cargo part (distance 3-5 cm below the heel of the boot and 10-15 cm above the mount (which means about 20 cm from the toe of the boot)) do not touch the floor when the athlete stands on them with both feet. In the case when the skier transfers the weight of the body to one of the skis, the entire sliding surface of the ski should lie on the floor. "In practice, this is checked simply - one person stands on the skis, and the second leads a thin sheet of paper under the block. When you stand on both skis, then the places where the piece of paper stops moving determine the boundaries of the last. If you transfer the weight to one ski, then the piece of paper under the boot should not move, the ski will press it to the floor. Then transfer the weight to the second ski, it should also press the sheet to the floor. with a sheet of paper can be done by one person, just make sure that the weight is evenly distributed on both skis when you determine the length of the last.
If conditions do not allow using this method, then roughly the stiffness can be determined as follows: carefully fold the skis with a sliding surface towards each other and squeeze them with one hand 3 cm below the center of gravity. There should be a gap of about 1-1.5 mm between the skis (the strength of the hand roughly corresponds to the weight of a person, but squeezing the skis with one hand is not very convenient). Just keep in mind that the strength of the hand does not necessarily correspond to your weight (for example, if you regularly exercise your hand with an expander).
In large stores, there are sometimes special stands for checking skis. In this case, you can ask to use such a stand, saying your weight.
The famous skier, world champion Alexander Zavyalov describes another "popular" way of determining the rigidity. The average person (not a gymnast or a weightlifter) should crush the skis with both hands until they fully touch the sliding plastic under the block. If it does not crush, then the skis are definitely tough for him.
For skating skis, the gap when compressed with one hand should be greater - 1.5 - 2 mm. And if you define it on the floor with a piece of paper, then under the boot itself, the piece of paper should move a little or be easily pulled out if you transferred the weight to one ski.
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Please note that beginners and children can take relatively soft skis, because without good technique, they will not be able to fully push on hard skis. (This means soft within reasonable limits, that is, a little softer than the described techniques dictate, and not those that can be squeezed with two fingers.)
Then check that the skis are evenly compressed. Thus, you indirectly check the quality of the weight deflection, which mainly determines the ski's ride quality. Squeezing the ski with both hands 3-5 cm below the center of gravity, look at the uniformity of compression - the gap above and below should decrease in proportion to the effort and evenly. Typically, the toes of skis are slightly softer than the heels, so the gap between the toes of the skis decreases more quickly than between the heels in the beginning, this is normal. As a result, the last gap under the block should disappear, approximately at the point of compression. In this case, the skis should fit snugly against each other throughout, there should be no gap between them. The toes of the skis should not come apart as they are compressed. In addition, each of the skis should bend equally. (It happens that the skis are not matched for stiffness and at full compression one is slightly arched and the other arched.) After flexing, you should feel that the nose and tail of the ski meet the definition of "elastic".
Here is a useful excerpt from I. Kuzmin's article "For parents of growing up skiers" in BOS # 8:
Typical cases of not very good skis:
- The ski is compressed with noticeable effort from the very beginning.
- At first, the ski is compressed very easily, and then there is a "stop", with such a ski, with repeated frequent compression, you can hear a knock in the front of the block.
- With strong compression by the owner, the skis touch under the shoe.
- With strong compression, the owner leaves a gap of more than 2 mm under the block (except for skis on ice).
(This refers to a one-handed squeeze.)
(In general, when selecting skis, it is preferable to first use the hand squeeze - this way you can quickly select several suitable pairs, at the same time checking the uniformity of the compression. And then, if possible, finally select your pair with a piece of paper, or by checking them more meticulously.)
4. Check the coincidence of the centers of gravity. Determine the center of gravity of each pair of skis. Then fold the skis together, with the heels of the skis in line. The centers of gravity should ideally coincide, but the discrepancy of the order of 1-1.5 cm is not fatal. (When you install the bindings, you will have to determine the center of gravity more precisely, for example, putting the ski on back side knife or the end of a thin ruler.)
5. Check the sliding surface. It must not be concave or curved across, but must be flat, with the exception of the groove.
Otherwise, the preparation of the skis will be very difficult - the iron and the scraper will not adhere to the entire surface of the ski. (Small deviations can be corrected. To do this, the ski will need to be looped, which requires experience and a ski rack.) To check, place a flat object at the beginning, middle and end of the ski, it should fit snugly against the sliding surface.
There should be no obvious and large damage to the plastic - pits, bumps, delamination, etc. ... Minor imperfections - small scratches, burrs are not as important as the weight deflection (diagram or stiffness). You can close your eyes to this (and you can fix it). In addition, the skis do not have to be completely smooth. A smooth ski is less slippery. Therefore, almost all skis have a "structure" on the sliding surface - a roughness specially applied at the factory. Burrs on the edges of new skis are removed with a fine sandpaper with light movements from the toe to the heel of the ski. And scratches will appear in any case after the first months of riding.
6. After a pair of skis have successfully passed these checks, you can finally look at their finish.If you, nevertheless, could not find a suitable pair in this store or among these models and brands, then take note of the following:
The STC factory uses light wood such as poplar or aspen for the production of skis, and power load are carried mainly by laminate and fiberglass plates. Therefore, skis are generally soft. When I was picking up my 60 kg inexpensive classic training skis made by STC (under the Madshus brand), I tried more than 15 pairs, and settled on one that was 5 cm longer than necessary, which had a small plastic bubble on the toe of the ski. and several cosmetic defects. But they had the toughness that was necessary. As a result, I removed the bubble with a sandpaper, and the skis turned out to be very successful. STC also produces cheap skis under the Peltonen and Karhu brands. In addition, STC skis are also hidden behind sonorous names such as Viking, Sable, Magnum.
Karelia (Sorsu) and Tisza skis are usually stiffer, they use more wood in them, but they are heavier than STC products in the same price range. Among these brands, you are more likely to pick up skis if your weight is above average. The yew produced in 2001 is very cultured, but also expensive.
If the funds allow, then you can safely take the products of well-known brands - Fisher, Atomic, Madchus, Rossignol, etc. Among skis that cost $ 80-100, there is less variation in parameters and an easier choice. But all the main stages of selection must be repeated with such skis.
Selection of ski boots
If funds permit, then take boots with Rotefell NNN or Salomon SNS soles. This is much more convenient than the old welt systems. Of course, these systems are not cheap to mount. But they are worth it. If your budget doesn't seem to allow you to spend $ 40-50 on racing bindings, then consider that there are excellent walking bindings that cost $ 20-25. The price range for boots ranges from about $ 50 for touring boots to about $ 200 for racing boots. As with skiing, hiking boots are versatile and made from cheaper materials. Actually, the boots have little effect on the speed of skiing, so it is not necessary to chase the top models. But if you intend to try yourself in skating style, then take skate models with a high, rigid cuff that covers the ankle. Or combined, similar in appearance to the ridge, but with the ability to remove the plastic cuff, after which you can run in them classics. Specialized mid-range shoes will cost more than touring boots. When choosing, pay attention first of all to the comfort of the boot. Different manufacturers use different last, some may be perfect for your feet. You can take shoes of models from previous seasons - they are much cheaper with practically the same quality, except that not all sizes remain. For skiing in the forest, hiking boots are suitable, for example, Rossignol X1 - X4, or Alpina and Salomon of the same level. Only take bindings under the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). In fact, boots with such a sole have only one drawback. If you walk a lot in them on the asphalt, then the plastic of the sole on the toe of the boot is erased almost to the metal bracket, which goes into the groove of the mounts. The brace will most likely not be able to fall out - it is quite deeply embedded in the sole, but the strength characteristics of the embedding will deteriorate, and the presentation of the boots will lose. Craftsmen use different ways protection of expensive boots if it is not possible to put them on next to the ski track. One option is rubber overshoes worn over boots. Better galoshes with soft fabric inside. It's just that rubber leaves marks on a light-colored shoe or peels off the paint. When I arrive at the place, I take off my galoshes, put them in a plastic bag so that they don't get snow packed in, and bury them in the snow under some kind of Christmas tree. I dress on the way back. The second method is described in PM No. 16. A piece of rubber tube / hose with an inner diameter approximately corresponding to the diameter of the staple and a length equal to the length of the open part of the staple is cut in a spiral and put on (screwed) onto the bracket. Before putting on the skis, the tube is removed and put in a pocket.Choosing ski poles
Most modern poles are made from carbon fiber and fiberglass in varying proportions. 100% carbon fiber sticks are light and stiff, but they cost several times more than fiberglass ones (up to $ 200). Accordingly, 100% fiberglass poles are not as rigid, they bend and break more easily, and weigh a little more. Mid-range sticks can be made from a mixture of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The higher the percentage of fiberglass, the cheaper the sticks. Fiberglass is quite suitable for children and beginners who do not have much strength and weight.Plastic (composite) sticks sometimes break. This can happen when you fall on a stick or when leaning on a stick with all your weight and losing balance, though not always. I had to break cheap fiberglass sticks even with a strong push - I didn't hit the force exactly in the axis of the stick - and that's it.
If your weight is heavy, then use more durable sticks with a higher percentage of carbon fiber. Or aluminum. They have little in common with those aluminum bendable sticks with big rings, which were produced 10-20 years ago. Modern aluminum poles look the same as composite poles.
Domestic sticks produced by STC have proven themselves quite well (they are also produced as inexpensive Madshus, Karhu - different stickers, see http://stc-ski.ru/content/view/29/45/lang,ru/) and UEHK (Uralsky Electro Chemical Combine). For an amateur, there is also a good choice - Balakovo sticks, they are cheaper, but their quality is good (they are produced under the brand name "Volzhanka"). Decent domestic sticks cost from 300-400 rubles.
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Ski lubrication
First, a couple of words for those completely ignorant of ski lubrication. Lubricants are of two main types: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic ride, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with sliding lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with a holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the last is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot, placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the last 10-15 cm to the toe of the ski. (I have heard how people were recommended that there was no recoil to smear the back part (!!!) of the ski.)Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with sliding greases.
The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you are going to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the time spent on preparing the skis is greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.
If you have read materials from Swix or other companies devoted to preparing skis, you can estimate how long it will take minimal professional training of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (applying, removing with a plastic scraper, cleaning with a brush), then applying 1-2 layers of weather wax (applying, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removing with a plastic scraper, cleaning with a brush, polishing) ... That is, for half an hour at least you will be fiddling with one pair. Plus additional "pleasure" - the smell (though not strong), scraped off paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor, the end of the carpets. One time my friend and I prepared skis at his house, rolled the carpet, then, of course, we removed everything, but some residual paraffin, apparently, remained on the floor, and the carpet began to slide wildly ... I remember the kind words of his wife ... In short, we need a place where to turn around and not bother anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the paraffin residues will be scattered throughout the apartment with their feet, especially in winter, when, due to dryness and static electricity, these residues tend to stick to everything. It happens that while you are busy with the preparation, all the desire to ride disappears from the family. This is only for the "turned" fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and good in terms of results, which will be written about in the following sections.
In order to have an idea of the process of professional preparation of skis, read the article by A. Grushin "How to prepare skis?" from the magazine "Ski races" №5. Or get the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from Fischer's store.
Ski ointments slip
Slip lubricants come in a variety of forms. The most commonly used paraffins, and in professional sports accelerators (powders or compressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are quite expensive and consumed quite quickly. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are not worse, and often even better (except that some of them go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it makes no sense to take a lot. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather ... In professional lubrication, this is solved by rolling back paraffins, but those who like to torment themselves with a choice do not need anything.If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then you better buy fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where the air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is usually below 50%, then you will be fine with paraffins without fluoride.
Of the inexpensive domestic paraffins, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take a set of MVIS Marathon - it will suit you perfectly. (These lubricants roll back just in the Moscow region, and they go well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and rolls well in most cases. This is a set of light-fluoride paraffins (with a low content of fluorine) for three temperature ranges. It is also worth taking pills - the MVIS accelerator. They have it for sunny weather №238 at a temperature of -9 + 5, it lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather in which he is really good, but he will go in cloudy weather, albeit worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once I smeared it in a cold way, you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but it is spent very sparingly - enough for many years.
For humid climates, fluoridated gels, pastes, sprays or emulsions are good. Applied to a sliding surface with a cotton swab or sprayed, dried or warmed up with a hairdryer, then polished. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: a little expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.
Ski hold ointments
Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must meet two requirements. First, the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and the snow crystals enter the layer of the holding ointment, the ski "sticks" to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, which will allow the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, the pressure under the block is also present, but at the same time the ointment should allow gliding on one ski and "brake" only at the moment of push. Therefore, the selection of the optimal holding ointment that provides the best combination of grip and glide is not easy in professional sports. The alternation of layers of different ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques.Lovers can smear easier. In order not to fool my head, I will give the most simple rule: for most subzero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (without fluoride) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.), you need to put an ointment, the lower temperature limit range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and therefore the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take with you a plastic rubbing (so-called "cork") and a warmer ointment and colder than the one that was smeared at home. If you do not get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much, put a colder one on top, it does not hold well - a warmer one. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the pad forward to the toe of the ski.) Apply grease for a couple of minutes, and you will enjoy skiing for the rest of the time. Since the snow is different everywhere, for a specific region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Feel free to experiment and you will quickly find the best option.
For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment are enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you smear at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork.
Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied with a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do this in the cold, better at home).
The klister may be needed for freezing temperatures. But it gets very dirty. Before you put the skis in the cover, when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the cover. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are upright, then it begins to slowly flow down along them. So after rolling, it is better to immediately remove the klister with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry cloth).
In freezing temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:
- Stick up. At transition temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially when falling, snow, you may encounter "stickiness" - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.
- Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional -2 -0, but it also happens at -25), "icing" of the ointment may begin - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a push, begin to break off, leaving the tips in the ointment, and on an ice crust appears on its surface. Most often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. It can also happen if you start skiing immediately after leaving the house, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the water temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it is too early to ski. In addition, the ointment that has not cooled down can quickly disappear. Let the skis (and ointments) cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.
- The state of the snow in the track and outside it can be different, so the ointment, which allowed you to roll normally in the track, can greatly slow down when you leave it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in the shade, such as in a forest.
Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes
Now about the required set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or another company) manual for preparing skis, you get the impression that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all kinds of tools and materials for the skis. For professional ski training, this is really necessary. But the amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools. If you take skis with a racing base (this is sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - the paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at high temperatures, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops absorbing into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears (see Steve Powin's article "Use the Iron Correctly" in LS # ...). A good ski iron can be purchased for $ 60-70.New skis, regardless of whether you will later use hot waxing or not, it is still better to process with an iron the first time. In extreme cases, you can do with a household iron (just don't ruin a good one, take an old one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large, damp cloth on hand. If suddenly the paraffin starts to smoke, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by attaching a rag to it, and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft positive paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the iron thermostat to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the tip to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski at all times. It is better to run the household iron sideways, with the wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.
- Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin wax. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a fragment of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put a fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive up, and trim a ruler on the sandpaper so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs and irregularities. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler on the skin in a semicircle (while the edges should remain sharp). Adjust these corners to the groove of your skis to remove the wax from the groove later. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the corners to different pairs. Look at the branded scrapers in the store to get an idea of what you should end up with.
- Nylon brush, used to remove residual paraffin after removing it with a scraper. If you will be using hot paraffin wax, a stiff brush is needed. It was necessary for this to use household brushes such as "ironing" or a brush for hands with stiff nylon bristles. "Sand is not an important substitute for oats," but you can also remove excess paraffin.
- Rough Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove the lint from the plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (In fact, the residual fluff will come off on its own after a few months of riding.) Fibertex is not too expensive. Household abrasive plates of approximately the same appearance may contain less abrasive, and only add pile. But there are also almost complete analogs. But to buy it or not to buy it ... Probably not necessary.
- Fiberlene (fiberlene) - non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed, you can polish the skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, with an old woolen sock.
- Sandpaper SWIX No. 100, used for sanding the last for classic skis so that the ointment holds better. Need not. Any household skin will come off with the appropriate grain size. In general, you need to skin under the block if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice.
- Shaving scraper Swix T-89, used to remove lint - no need for an amateur.
- The cycle is metal. It is unlikely that you will cycle yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski rack in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be cycled. The cycle is only needed to remove the burnt plastic. And to spoil the ski when cycling is as easy as shelling pears - and now a wave or a scratch. Lovers don't need it.
- Knurling is used to apply structure to a sliding surface. Lovers don't need it. The generic structure applied in the factory is sufficient.
- Copper brush, needed to remove frost wax. If you are willing to accept the slight loss of glide by using warmer paraffin wax, then you don't need it. If you apply hard frost paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a gel or accelerator on frost, applied in a very thin layer, and does not require the use of a hard brush.
- Rinse, used to remove the holding ointment under the shoe. Also suitable for rinsing off slippery wax if you cannot use hot cleaning of skis. It is desirable. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - that she just did not have to clean.
- Rubbing (cork), used to smooth out holding ointments. Plastic is better for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. It will definitely be required.
Optional ski accessories
Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be where to store the skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with the holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to clean it from clothes without solvent or remover. Good domestic covers start at 200 rubles. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It accommodates both skis and poles.It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bindings. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski during transportation will be damaged by poles or bindings of another pair. If you walk close to the ski track, then you can carry your skis without a cover. It is more difficult to get dirty on skis held together by bundles. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch.
Rags. You will need old cotton rags to handle your skis. They wipe dry the sole of the iron after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the remaining paraffin after passing it with a scraper and brushes, and so on. You can even polish the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, with a rag without pressing hard.
How to store skis
Since most models of skis, especially mass ones, use wood, you should not store your skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. A friend of mine put a ski bag on a sunny balcony for the summer. And one pair of skis "led", it's good that it was inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.Simplified ski lubrication technology
You can read about the subtleties of applying lubricants hot (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin's article "Use the Iron Correctly" from LS No. ... In particular, he does not recommend using household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.You can try this method (experimented): take a metal ladle with a lid, say, a liter. It should not be enameled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, flat bottom, preferably an aluminum one - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald. Place the lid on the ladle to avoid scalding from the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins during the initial processing of skis or when lubricating with heat and a slight minus. Typically, such paraffins have a melting point well below 100 degrees Celsius. The paraffin wax must be previously rubbed with a thick layer on a sliding surface, and the ski must lie horizontally, with a sliding surface upward, for example, on two stools.
Boiling water and a ladle that conducts heat well is enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can't put frosty paraffin in that way, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burnout of the base. Change the water as it cools. Take a few slow passes from the toe to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and scald. Therefore, for permanent use, it is still better to purchase a ski iron.
Another way. Paraffin can be applied with vigorous rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If there is a clear layer of old paraffin on the ski, brush it off easily with a plastic scraper and / or nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of a bar of paraffin (it is convenient to control this by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). Not even necessarily a completely continuous layer. Then take a cork rub and rub intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The generated heat is enough to partially melt the wax into the base. Then brush lightly from the tip to the heel of the ski. The time spent is minimal. There is practically no dirt, no machine is required. On ordinary snow, it will keep at least 10 km.
There is such a thing - a thermal wash from the TOKO firm - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to spongy rubber. This combination supposedly generates enough heat to cold apply the accelerators. Imitated by a thick synthetic felt insole wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying cold paraffins.
What ski ointments to buy for preparing skis
Depending on your fitness level and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lubricant that are sufficient for riding.Minimum.
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Here's what is included in the required minimum kit:
3 - 4 jars (briquette) holding ointment covering a temperature range of 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region) and one cork or synthetic rub.
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Only, please, keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go on the track at a positive temperature, because with a plus you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).
Sufficient.
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Advanced.
This kit may be needed by a fairly advanced and prepared skier, so that in many respects the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in "LS", from a trainer or from some other sources. However, we provide this list as well. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(This lubricant is especially effective in wet conditions). You can also buy antistatic waxes (needed to remove static stress from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdery and in the form of tablets, pure fluorocarbons), knurling (for applying a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. In addition, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have different companies in their arsenal of lubricants, since ointments from often completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost is many times higher than the cost of the first two kits combined.
Most of the time and at least half of the length of the ski trip falls on descents and ascents, that is, skiing from the mountains. For this, wide and short skis are best suited, 10-15 centimeters shorter than the height of the skier. But skiing requires longer skis. The trade-off in the length of the recreational ski is a ski equal to the height of the skier. If the skier is still a child or not overweight muscle mass, it is better to choose walking skis 5 centimeters shorter than his height, and if his weight is more than normal, the skis should be wider. In any case, the rule applies - "better wider and shorter than narrower and longer!"
Similarly, skis in length are chosen by tourists-skiers, and they go in those places where there are no ski tracks at all, but do not fall through. And they descend from the mountains, which are scary to look at, nevertheless, they move down. Tourist skis are wider than walking skis and are more durable and heavier, and those that are used in the Far North also have a metal edging.
As a matter of fact, walking skiing is closely related to tourist skiing, not cross-country skiing. The confusion arises here due to the fact that in our city skiers-runners do not have their own special tracks and stadiums, and ride in ski parks together with skiing enthusiasts. For skiers and tourists, we have enough space where they can ski without getting confused by the lovers of ski walks.
Children
Ski toe width: 51mm to 58mm.
Women
Ski toe width: 51mm to 65mm.
Men
Ski toe width: 59mm to 68mm.