For better glide and grip on snow, Norwegian swix ski wax is used. Modern manufacturing technology allows you to quickly apply the product. To achieve the expected result, it is important to choose an ointment taking into account external factors.

The Swix range contains not only fluorocarbon, but also a special solid lubricant additive. As a result, the resulting product has a lower coefficient of friction compared to similar lubricants.

The main components contained in the composition have been tested for a long time on test tracks. In trials at the World Cup cross-country skiing Swix premium brand products hold the leading position. Thanks to the unique formula, the ointments are long lasting and work over a wide temperature range.

Appointment

The purpose of the holding klisters is to prevent kickback, to push. When driving, snow crystals must penetrate into the ointment, thereby protecting the athlete from slipping. For this, the product must be applied in the center (block).

Attention! With the wrong selection of klisters, strong braking occurs, which will make it difficult to ride.

A similar problem occurs when applying a product that is not suitable for the existing weather conditions. Therefore, it is recommended to purchase Swix holding ointment, which is adapted to different temperature indicators.

How and when to apply

The main indicator for a holding ointment is that it does not interfere with repulsion from the surface. That is, at the moment when the skier puts pressure on the block, the layer of snow under it also experiences an increased load. As a result, the snow sticks to the ski, providing propulsion. After that, the crystals come out of the klister, and the athlete glides along the track without effort.

Swix serrated ski ointment prevents oxidation and surface contamination. In the absence of proper care, oxidized inventory will begin to slip poorly. In this case, the athlete will need a lot of effort to control and drive on the track.

A special agent maintains slip performance, protects against ice, dirt and oxidation. Klister has the property of restoring damaged ski surfaces. Before using easy serrated ski wax glide swix, it is necessary to clean the inventory of dirt and apply the product using the special applicator included in the kit. It is necessary to process the entire area, including. The process takes a few minutes, and then you can go to the mountain slope.

Application rules

The application technique depends on its purpose. The easy holding ointment is applied in the following order:

1. To process the area of ​​holding (the middle part of the ski 65-70 cm) using sandpaper No. 100. This is necessary for improved adhesion of the product to the surface.
2. Taking into account the weather conditions, the hardness of the snow, the type of track, use a suitable tool.
3. Apply several coats of klister to the previously prepared area. Rub each layer thoroughly with a cork for an even layer. At a positive air temperature, two layers are sufficient. For skiing on frozen or very soft snow, one layer is enough.
4. Get on the skis and check the grip level. When slipping, add an extra layer.

Slip zone - a section from start to end, excluding the holding zone. Glidants are often referred to as paraffin wax. They are essential for good skiing. Technology: apply paraffin wax to the sliding zone preheated with the help of special irons, grind and remove excess.

You can make notches in a piece, grind the product with an even layer in a warm room (a similar procedure should be performed before harvesting skis for summer storage).
Liquid aerosols and pastes are applied in a thin layer. After that, it is necessary to leave until completely dry, and then polish the treated area.

Healthy! Slip ointments should be selected based on temperature conditions or be universal.

To renew the lubricating layers, you must first remove the old ones using Swix. It is not necessary to use a vice.

Each product in the Swix line has detailed instructions for use that will help the athlete cope with the task.

If you don’t anoint it, you won’t go. This wisdom is directly related to skiing. Ski preparation is needed not only for competitive athletes, but also for those who like to spend a weekend skiing. If you don't want to give it to the service every time, you need to learn how to lubricate the skis yourself. Today we will talk about how to prepare skis, namely: how to smear skis with quick-apply lubricants, how to paraffin cross-country skiing And what you need to do.

How to lubricate skis without an iron?

Fast-apply lubricants are inexpensive emulsions, creams, and pastes that can be applied in a couple of minutes. They do not penetrate a deeply sliding surface, so they will work for about 5-7 km. These "lazy" lubricants are intended for people who use skis from time to time.

The instructions are similar for everyone:

• apply to the entire sliding surface in an even layer
• wait 2-3 minutes
• rub with natural cork or felt

There are expensive high-fluoride emulsions, pastes and creams. The principle of use is the same, but they are much more expensive. Using expensive racing lubricants using the quick application method simply doesn't make sense in our opinion. Racing emulsions, pastes and creams are used only after priming the ski with paraffin.

• Pros: fast, easy, convenient
• Minuses: grease quickly comes off the skis, does not increase the lifespan of the skis

Example of Swix Grease Application

The video is blurry classic ski... Ridge skates are smeared in the same way, but in full length.

How to wax skating skis?

This way of lubricating skis requires more time and more tools. However, it is the most effective and most widely used among skiers. It is used both in ski maintenance training and in competitions. high level as an independent lubricant or primer for accelerators. This method of preparing skis will be discussed below.

Ski preparation tools

Ski preparation profile

It consists of 2 stops with a loop for fastening.

Iron

It is better to use a special ski iron when preparing. It differs from the household one in the temperature regime and the sole. As an economy option, you can use an old household iron, but there is a risk of burning the sliding surface.

Several brushes

Ski brushes differ from household brushes in hardness and pile length. In any case, simple ski brushes are inexpensive and every amateur skier can afford a minimal set. The ideal set consists of 3 brushes: thin metal, medium hard nylon, soft nylon. If it is not possible to purchase 3 brushes, then you can get by with one medium nylon brush.

Scrapers

Ski scrapers are the same for all manufacturers. They differ only in thickness - 3 mm and 5 mm. Choose whichever is more comfortable in your hands, there is no fundamental difference. You will also need a groove scraper (can be replaced with a ballpoint pen or marker body).

Paraffin

Ski waxes are divided into 3 groups: CH (fluorine-free), LF (low fluoride), HF (high fluoride).

The higher the air humidity, the more fluoride is needed. And the more fluorine, the more expensive the paraffin wax. For ski care and weekend skiing with your family, CH is enough. If you want better glide, then you need HF. LF is the middle option. In general, the budget decides here. The main thing is to apply paraffin of the appropriate temperature.

How to prepare skating skis?

1. Clean plastic from dirt with a fine metal brush. 3-5 passes from toe to heel should be sufficient.
2. Apply paraffin wax and melt with an iron on the ski. Do not forget that plastic melts at 135 degrees, and the melting point of some paraffins is much higher. Therefore, the iron does not need to be held in place. Run the iron from toe to heel for no more than 8-10 seconds, then repeat the procedure 3-4 times to evenly melt the paraffin.
3. Let the plastic cool to room temperature. At this time, apply paraffin wax to the second ski.
4. Remove the wax from the groove and then from the edges and from all over sliding surface... The paraffin wax is always removed from the groove first. So, if the scraper is torn off, the sliding surface will not be damaged.
5. Brush off the remains with a thin metal brush, if not metal, then with a medium hard nylon. As in the first stage, 3-5 passes from toe to heel.
6. Polish with nylon brushes. First medium, then soft polishing. If there are no polishing agents, then after the 5th stage the preparation is over.

How to wax your skis: video instructions

This video shows the best way to apply paraffin wax. Note:

• paraffin is applied by the drip method - not economically, but quickly and “greasy”
• processing is carried out with a metal and nylon brush
• we are talking about the initial preparation for weather wax (this is not necessary at all, you can immediately apply weather wax)

In this video, pay attention to the way wax is applied to the ski. The method “poke into the iron - smear on the ski” is more economical and is not inferior in efficiency.

Go in for sports, move and travel! If you find a mistake or want to discuss the article - write in the comments. We are always glad to communicate. 🙂

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In order to easily choose the appropriate ointment for the weather, it is necessary to understand the basics of the collection of ointments, to study the main types of snow and its behavior at different temperatures. In the production of modern holding ointments, the best raw materials and formulas are used, and they are prepared using special machines. All this simplifies the process of selecting ointments. When the skier uses all his weight in the take-off phase of a classic ride, the ski block is pressed into the snow, which captures the grease and allows an effective take-off and transition into the glide phase.

The hardness of the snow crystals depends on the temperature, the colder the snow crystals, the harder you need to choose an ointment so that in the repulsion phase the hardness of the ointment corresponds to the hardness of the snow. As the temperature rises, the snow transforms (old snow), the snow crystals become rounded, so a softer ointment should be chosen. When the snow goes through several cycles of re-freezing (melts and freezes again), its crystals have a very rigid round structure (hard coarse-grained snow), then it’s time to use a klister - holding liquid ointment, it is it that allows the rounded snow crystals to grab and push the skier. When riding a classic ride on coarse-grained snow, it is the klister that allows you to effectively push off and then slide easily. Problems with the selection of ointment begin at temperatures around zero and fresh snow. The combination of sharp, fresh crystals of fresh snow and relatively high temperature increases friction during the sliding phase. When rubbed, heat is released, new snow melts, a thin film of water forms, which freezes in a soft ointment. As a result, the skis begin to slip, which interferes with further movement... The ways to avoid such a situation will be discussed further.

A common mistake faced by Swix service representatives is that riders choose an ointment that is too cold, that is, too harsh, for the current conditions. The second problem is that the shoe for holding liquid ointments is chosen shorter than it should be. Riders often place too much emphasis on glide, and therefore opt for colder ointments and use a shorter last. All this leads to ski slippage, which means that the skier loses more energy and time than he saves on sections when moving downhill.
For more information on how to choose the appropriate ointment, you can get using the ointment calculator on the website swixsport.com

Preparation of the holding area (pads)

Before applying the holding ointment, the block must be sanded so that the ointment is then absorbed into the base. You do not need to do this every time you apply the ointment - it is enough to clean the block from time to time. Using sandpaper with grain # 100, run several times in both directions along the entire length of the shoe and lift the pile.
Tip: To protect the sliding zones from damage by the sandpaper, apply a special surface protection tape at the beginning of the sliding zone (at the joints with the holding zone).

Processing of holding ointments with a stopper

It is necessary to properly handle the ointment with a cork: each layer of ointment must be leveled and polished. Unevenly applied ointment reduces the contact of the pad with the snow, which means worse repulsion. With the correct application of the ointment using a cork, you can grease the skis with a softer ointment on top of the previously applied one directly on the track. Pay attention to the groove - there the holding ointment must be processed carefully.

Holding ointment layers

When applying holding ointments, it is recommended to apply several thin layers, each of which is carefully rubbed with a cork. Racers usually use 7-8 layers. The first layer should cover the entire holding area. The holding zone starts from the heel of the bindings and goes 60-65 cm forward. The last layer should be the shortest and located exactly under the sole of the boot. Thus, the ointment is applied in the form of a pyramid.
Tip: Softer, warmer ointments are easier to apply in several layers if they have been cooled beforehand.

Application of holding ointments - Primer

A primer is applied in order to increase the adhesion of the grip to the sliding surface. Today, dirt is being used more and more in racing. Modern soil does not negative effect on sliding, so riders use it for races with a distance of more than 10 km.

In very aggressive snow conditions, we recommend using VG35 soil grease as the first coat. For less aggressive snow conditions (cold, fine-grained snow), VG30 soil is used. Usually one thin layer is applied, but if the snow is abrasive and erases the ointment, then the layer becomes thicker. After applying the ointment, it must be warmed up with an iron (iron temperature is about 110 C). If processing skis takes place outdoors, where there is no electricity source, use a special iron that heats up with a blowtorch. If at all there is no possibility of temperature treatment of the ointment, then it is necessary to carefully rub each layer with a cork - this will improve the adhesion of the ointment to the material of the sliding surface.

V40 is often used to complement the base coat. Apply a thin layer of the ointment, run quickly with a grease iron, let the ointment cool and rub in. Ointment Blue Extra has a long history, tested in competitions, so that many riders cannot imagine processing skis without it. The VG35 and VG30 Primers are the ideal base coat for all holding ointments.

How to choose the right holding ointment for the current conditions:

First you need to test your skis. You can apply a layer of colder or warmer ointment over the original selected ointment. You should not spare time and effort on tests, ointments need time to adapt to the state of the snow. Usually at first (several hundred meters) the ointment slips, this is normal. If the initially selected ointment works well, then it remains to go to the track. Additional layers of ointment are only needed if there is a long race ahead.

A: If the skis continue to slip, then there are three solutions:

1. Apply several more coats of the same ointment. It may be necessary to lengthen the pad area forward. A thicker layer, cushion of ointment will allow the snow to grip the ointment and produce an effective repulsion for the skier. Remember that the ointment is applied in a pyramid pattern.
2. If the ointment does not provide adequate repulsion (too hard, cold), apply a softer warm ointment over the already applied ointment. If this resolves the problem, apply several additional coats of warm ointment. Again, don't forget to put an extra layer on the last in the sole area of ​​the boot.
3. If, on the other hand, too soft (too warm) ointment was initially applied, the block may begin to freeze under the conditions of new fine-grained snow. The ski will slip in corners and will slip worse. If it's not immediately clear whether the ointment freezes or not, apply a little more of the same ointment. If it is impossible to apply more ointment (it slips off), then the ointment is too soft and will freeze slightly. In this case, you need to properly grind the ointment with a cork. Corking will remove ice and excess moisture. After removing the ice, apply several coats of a colder, harder ointment. If this does not remove the ice, scrape off the previous ointment and apply a harder ointment, rubbing each layer with a cork. As a rule, you can leave the old soil.

Q: If the skis are going slowly, there is heaviness when moving, you can do the following:

1. Remove the ointment that is too soft or lay a layer on it with a harder one. It may have formed ice with the previous ointment (the case described in point A3) or the ointment did not come into effective contact with snow. In this case, remove the old ointment and apply a colder

2. Pay attention to the width of the shoe. If you apply the holding ointment more than the recommended distance, you can lose the speed and feel of the snow. Scrape off excess ointment with a scraper.
Putting a softer ointment on top of a harder one is not a problem. Gently apply thin layers and rub each thoroughly with a cork, but do not apply too much pressure. It is also possible to mix a colder, harder klister with a softer one. In this case, the hard klister is applied in dots on top of the soft one, heated together with an iron and then rubbed together with a cork.This is one of the ways to make the soft klister harder to avoid freezing and increase the life of the klister.

For long races where warming is expected, first apply an ointment corresponding to the expected temperature level and then coat it with a harder ointment corresponding to the temperature conditions at the start.
In conditions of high humidity, sometimes a softer ointment (next in the line) is applied than the temperature conditions require. Apply more coats than usual for improved repulsion.
In conditions of low humidity and dry fine-grained snow, the best solution is to use an ointment that is cold than required and apply it in thinner layers.

Ointments for keeping V and VR lines:

These ointments have a huge number of victories in their history. The main difference between the V line ointments from VR is the absence of organofluorine additives. This made it possible to lower the price with excellent performance. Line V ointments are used in competitions as a base coat for VR ointments
V line holding ointments are traditional holding ointments intended for both hobbyists. Although these ointments are free of fluoride, they work great because they are fluoridated. they are formulated with fully refined petroleum components, synthetic rubber and pharmaceutical oils. V line hold ointments are often used in top tier competition, either alone or in combination with VR hold ointments.

Despite the fact that the VR line holding ointments were developed for professional riders, they are of undoubted interest for mass sports and recreation due to their excellent qualities, especially when the temperature is "around freezing". These holding ointments are characterized by a high degree of flexibility in application, each VR ointment has two temperature applications, one of which is for freshly fallen or falling snow, characterized by sharp-angled snow crystals with a relatively high degree of penetration, and the other for old snow, with rounded crystals and low penetration power.
The VR line holding ointment formulas are constantly being improved with the aim of improving performance.

Klister application:

We recommend applying the klister indoors and, if possible, at room temperature. The application of klister under these conditions is the most comfortable. Also, using a grease table, ski profile, grease iron and hot hair dryer will give the best results.
Always start by applying a base klister. The use of the KB20 base klister spray provides excellent interaction. The base klister spray is directly applied to the ski last.

Klister KR20 is also used as a base coat. Preheat the tube with a hair dryer. Apply a thin layer of klister (string) to each side of the last from the groove. Fuse the klister with an iron at a heating temperature of 110C. The klister layer should not be in the area of ​​the groove and edges of the skis. Then the klister must be gently rubbed with a cork for even distribution over the block. Allow skis to cool at room temperature before overcoating.

We recommend the KR30 and KR40 klisters as the middle layer. The purpose of this layer is to hold the next layers of klister and create a stable layer of ointment that will last for a long time. Warm up the tube with a hair dryer and apply a klister in a fishbone pattern. Then use the Swix Klister flat scraper to spread the ointment to either side of the groove. The klister needs to be neatly aligned thumb or the base of your hand, or rub with a cork while still warm. Warm up the applied klister layer with a hairdryer. The final layer is the klister for the current conditions.

As well as hard grip ointments, this klister is applied to the entire area of ​​the cross-country ski shoe. In this case, the holding area of ​​solid ointments should be shorter than the holding area under the klysters. It should also be remembered that the last layer should provide maximum retention. This layer should be significantly thicker than all the others. In this case, the base klister is applied in the thinnest layer.
Tip: If you need to apply several types of klisters in one layer, you can alternate each "string" in the "fishbone" using different klisters. Then rub gently with a stopper to distribute evenly over the last.

How to apply solid ointment to klister

In wet snow conditions, when a klister is required, areas with dry, fine-grained snow may remain, then a solid holding ointment should be applied over the klister. First you need to choose the right klister. Warm klisters (KR60. KR70 and K22n) are too soft to apply a hard ointment over them. Then you need to choose a solid holding ointment. It should be slightly colder than the ointment that is used under the same conditions if applied without klister.

Apply a thin layer of klister indoors, heat with an iron (as described above). Cool the klister outside and then apply a layer of hard ointment on top of the klister. Gently rub the ointment with a stopper, make sure that the klister does not protrude over the ointment. At temperatures around zero, it can be difficult to select an ointment, especially if the snow has not gone through the cycle of melting and re-freezing. Changes in the slope of the track, as well as the transition from the sunlit section of the track to the shade - all this affects the state of the snow. The piste may be icy and the snow outside the piste or on the top of the slope may be dry and fine.

In the range around zero, “silver” ointments appear in the collection. The high temperature of the air requires a soft ointment, but it can freeze slightly. The silver additive makes the ointment more resistant to ice formation. Worse in fresh snow, when crystals penetrate the ointment and the snow begins to stick to the block until the skier is on top of a small hill under the block. There is definitely nothing nice about that.
Nevertheless, a way out can be found from such difficult conditions. the main task remove excess moisture, for this you need to remove the adhering snow and rub the ointment with your hand or a cork. If you rub it with a cork, then droplets of moisture (melted ice) will appear on the surface of the ointment - they must be removed, and then a harder ointment should be applied. If the ointment is very frozen or a thick layer of snow has adhered, you will have to remove the ointment and coat the skis with a harder ointment. Within this range, Swix offers the following VR50, VR55 and VR60 silver ointments - designed for drier conditions than VR65 and VR70 and VR75 klisters. The last two ointments are for new wet snow and icy tracks.
In wetter conditions or on icy tracks, klisters should be used. If at the same time there are sections of the track with dry snow, you need to apply a solid ointment on top of the klister (K21, KR50 or KR40)

Combination examples

Ointments from VR45 to VR60 can be applied on top of the K21 universal klister.
Apply VR40 or VR5S on top of the Flexi KR50 klister.
Usually VR40 or VR45 is applied over the KR40 klister.
Particular attention must be paid to ensure that each layer of the klister is thin, since several layers of the klister create an excess of ointment on the last, which interferes with good sliding.

Spring has come, the state of snow in the mountains of Krasnaya Polyana begins to gradually deteriorate, in the morning there is sometimes an ice crust on the tracks. This does not mean that you no longer need to ride. This means that to enjoy the ride, you need to pay little attention to the surface finish and edge condition. I personally ran into this problem a couple of weeks ago, when, climbing Alpika, I realized that my snowboard completely refuses to go, and half a day of skiing was mediocrely lost until I met a friend from whom I borrowed a piece of paraffin. And judging by the conversations in the line for the cable car, a similar problem that day was not just me. Therefore, we asked the specialists of Swix, the largest manufacturer of products for preparing skis and snowboards, to tell you about what you can do at home. We bring you these simple tips.

We also remind everyone that everyone can, by April 7, 2010, fill out on our website and win one of six sets for handling alpine skis and snowboards, kindly provided to the FunSochi website.

Edging and sliding surfaces with Swix products
A few simple steps to handle your skis or snowboard will help you get the most out of your experience. These simple steps will improve the glide and edge quality of your equipment and help you improve your riding skills. And your skis and snowboards last longer!

Recommended Swix Products:
T3001 Edge sharpening tool complete with a file;
T240 Edge polishing stone;
F4-150 Universal liquid ointment. Contains fluoride for better glide;
F4-60 Universal solid ointment. Contains fluoride for better glide;
I62 Washing spray for cleaning;
T151 Fiberlene cloth for cleaning and polishing;
R392 Alpine ski cuffs with protective padding;
T165 Alpine ski brake clamps;

Sharpen the edges!
Edging is best done before applying the ointment to avoid getting the ointment on the edging tools, as this will impair their performance. The edges need to be sharp and well polished to feel more accurately on your skis and snowboards. Edge sharpening is done in two areas:

Edge surface from the base side: Sharpening angle from 0.5 to 1 o
Side edge surface: Sharpening angle from 87 to 89 o

1. Edge surface from the base side:
Start edging with a compact cant cutter T3001... Lock the sharpening angle at the 1 o position. If you are not using a vise, keep the ski or snowboard away from you with the sliding surface. Use the file guide to walk along the edge in a continuous motion from the middle of the ski or snowboard along the entire edge. Unfold the other side and repeat on the opposite edge.

2. The side surface of the edging
Produced with the same tool T3001... Lock the sharpening angle at 88 o. You get a 2 o edge bevel. If you are right-handed, keep the ski or snowboard away from you. Use the file guide to walk along the edge in a continuous motion along the entire edge of the ski or snowboard. Unfold the other side and repeat on the opposite edge.

3. We polish the edges
Using the smooth side of the stone T240, it is necessary to polish the steel edge. Polished edges stay sharp longer and allow for greater speed. While moving the stone back and forth, first work the edge surface from the base side, then continue polishing the side edge of the edge (2-3 passes). This will remove small burrs that remain after filing. Edges are now perfectly sharpened and sanded for comfortable and safe riding on rough slopes.

4. Edge rounding
Edges must be rounded in non-working areas, starting from the place where the edging contacts the snow, to the toe and to the heel, respectively. These areas need to be polished with stone. Depending on your riding style and the recommendations of the snowboard manufacturer, you can slightly blunt the edge from the point of contact with the snow to the toe and to the heel up to 10-15 cm.For this purpose, you can use the abrasive side of the Swix stone. T240... Decrease the edge edge carefully. Stone T240 suitable for edging directly on the slope - if the snowboard clings to the snow at the ends more than you would like, round off the edges a little.

5. Removal of damage
The impact of stones during rolling leads to the formation of seals in the edge steel in the place where the impact fell. These seals must be removed before filing, as the file may slip and the edge will be uneven. Use the rough side of the stone T240 and firmly press to level the damaged area from both the sliding surface and the side of the piping. After riding on hard artificial snow, burrs and scratches appear along the entire edge of the edge. Walk with light pressure on the rough side of the stone T240 along the entire surface of the edging. This will remove the burrs.

6. Cleaning the sliding surface
Apply spray remover evenly I62 the entire area of ​​the ski or snowboard sliding surface. Wait about 15 seconds. Then thoroughly clean the sliding surface with a fiberlene cloth. T151.

7. Applying slip ointment
Swix Universal Slip Ointments F4 designed for a wide temperature range and snow conditions for superior glide, precise cornering and more fun. The most demanded products in this series are the liquid ointment spray F4-150 and a hard slip ointment F4-60... All Swix Products F4 contain fluoride, which greatly improves the glide of your skis and snowboards. Fast and easy application. Apply, polish and go!

"Poor slip is like riding a bicycle with flat tires."
By using slip ointment, you protect the sliding surface of skis and snowboards from oxidation (damage to the plastic material). You also get great control and fast cornering without any extra effort.

"Liquid method" of applying ointment F4

• Shake the liquid ointment bottle F4-150 and with a light pressure of the spray applicator, apply the liquid evenly over the entire sliding surface area.
• Wait a few minutes for the ointment to be absorbed. For best results, buff with a fiberlene cloth T151... Like polishing your shoes.

"Dry method" of applying ointment F4

• Hexagonal solid ointment shape F4-60 convenient for quick application. Using light pressure, rub the sliding surface evenly with the bar. F4-60.
• Applied solid ointment F4-60 must be thoroughly grinded and polished with a stopper attached to the bottom of the package.

A dirty sliding surface is a slow sliding surface. Don't forget to clean up!

"Express method" of applying slip ointments
It couldn't be easier!

• Choose a topical ointment according to the air temperature (in the shade).
• Shake the bottle and press the applicator onto the sliding surface. Apply emulsion evenly.
• Let dry for 2 minutes. Then polish with fiberlene T151 like polishing your shoes.

"Swix"
The Norwegian company SWIX is a world leader in the production of ski waxes and waxes, ski poles, tools for handling and care of skis and sportswear.

Swix was founded in 1946 when, following the development of a research group led by Norwegian skier Martin Matsbo, a new system of ski waxes based on synthetic materials was introduced to the market. The new “three colors” system is a breakthrough in the minds of skiers of all levels, making it easier to lubricate skis.

In 1987, Swix pioneered the production of 100% organofluorine powders. Cera F series of paraffins was launched on the market. A revolutionary breakthrough - new generation accelerators with extremely low sliding friction have allowed Swix to become a leader in not only running, but also alpine skiing... Cera F gave impetus to development new technology when traditional paraffins are blended with fluoride to create the most effective Cera Nova glide wax line.

The success of the company is obvious - more than 70% of the World Cup participants play with SWIX sticks. Swix products are used by the world's leading athletes in cross-country skiing, biathlon and alpine skiing, such as the 2008/2009 World Cup winner Norwegian Axel Lund Svindal.

But SWIX manufactures products not only for professionals - skiers of all levels, as well as lovers of an active lifestyle, will find suitable equipment for themselves.

Swix's goal and mission today is to develop, manufacture and market innovative, high-quality sporting goods in order to get more pleasure from sports and outdoor activities.

10.07.2013

Why prepare your skis?

At the very beginning, a few words should be said for those who are new to this area. Ski ointments are of two types: and.

Application area holding ointments for classic move.

For classic style, the front and rear part skis are lubricated with sliding paraffins. And the center of the ski is lubricated with a holding ointment to reduce recoil. The length of the middle part (pad) is about fifty centimeters. It is counted from the end of the heel of the boot, placed in the mount towards the toe of the ski. For beginners, it is possible to lengthen the last up to fifteen centimeters towards the toe.

In the skating style, the skis are lubricated along the entire length with sliding paraffins. You will have to choose paraffins depending on what goals you set for yourself. If your goal is skiing on the weekends, then the cost of lubrication and preparation time will be minimal. But if you are going to participate in competitions and do it more professionally, you will have to give a lot of money and time.

Minimum preparation of skis for more or less professional level includes: cleaning with soft paraffin (applying it, removing and then brushing), applying several layers of weather paraffin (must be applied, allowed to cool to room temperature (about ten minutes), then removed with a scraper, scrubbed and polished). As a result, you will spend at least half an hour on these preparations. Another inconvenience is the smell, but it is not particularly strong. If you prepare skis at home, then there is a serious problem - wax contamination. They can ruin the floors. And not only in the room where the preparation takes place, because there is an opportunity to spread it throughout the house. This kind of preparation will only appeal to ardent fans. skiing... Fortunately, there are easier preparation options.

Lubricants and slip wax.

There are several types of sliding lubricants. Paraffins are widely used among amateurs. Professionals, in most cases, also use it additionally. These funds are not cheap and are quickly spent. Therefore, if you are not a professional athlete, then it is better not to waste money on expensive accelerators. The shelf life of paraffins is not limited, but it makes no sense to buy it in large quantities.

If where you intend to ride in a humid climate, then you should purchase. Well, if the air humidity is below fifty percent, then ordinary paraffins will do.

In humid climates, it is good to use fluorinated gels, emulsions, sprays. All you need is to apply them to the skis using an eplicator or spray. Then dry, warm up with a hairdryer and polish. In this case, the skis will be prepared very quickly and without problems. The main disadvantages of such funds are considerable cost and quick consumption.

Ski holding ointments.

Holding ointments exist in a solid and liquid state. Any holding ointment must meet two criteria. First, it should allow the skier to push (when pushing off, additional pressure is created under the middle of the ski, and thanks to the ointment, the skis seem to stick to the snow (snow crystals enter the layer of ointment), which allows you to push off). Once repulsed, the crystals come out of the ointment layer, which allows the skis to glide. Secondly, in the case when a person glides on one of the skis and pressure is also created under the middle part of the ski, the ointment should not slow down the movement. There are various methods of applying the ointment, such as multiple coats.

With ointment for lovers, things are much easier. There is one simple rule that works for freezing temperatures and inexpensive ointments: you should use an ointment that has the lower end of the temperature range three to four degrees higher than the current temperature. If you have not guessed right with the ointment, and if the skis are too slow, then apply a "colder" ointment on top, if too slippery - a "warmer" one. Also, to enhance braking, you can increase the length of the block towards the toe of the ski. Applying a new layer of ointment will only take a few minutes, but nothing will spoil your riding experience. Do not be intimidated by experiments with ointment, in this way you can quickly find the best option for yourself.

It is enough for an amateur to have three or four jars of ointment, which would be in the range from plus three to minus fifteen degrees. If you lubricate your skis at home, it is recommended that you remove the remnants of the old holding ointment before applying a new one. To remove old ointment, use a special one. It is best to apply the ointment in two to three thin layers, rubbing each one.

Ointments in a liquid state are called. Apply it with the desired thin strip on both sides of the groove, then level it with a plastic scraper. This procedure is difficult to do directly on the track, so it is better to prepare in advance at home.

Klister can be used at positive temperatures. But it has one unpleasant property - it stains the cover a lot. So after skiing, it is better to wrap the skis in polyethylene, so as not to contaminate and ruin the cover. After using the skis, the klister begins to melt and drain. It is best to wash off the klister immediately after rolling, or remove it with a scraper.

Solid ointments usually work fine in subzero temperatures, but in certain conditions, problems can arise:

• Stick up. When the temperature goes above zero, such an unpleasant phenomenon as sticking can occur. This is the adhesion of snow to the ointment. As a result, a snowball forms under the block.
• Icing. Snow crystals, instead of leaving the ointment after the point, break in it. An ice crust appears on the surface of the ointment. This often happens when the temperature of the ointment is slightly higher than necessary.
• The condition of the snow on the track and outside of it may differ, therefore, when exiting the track, problems may arise, the skis may slow down too much. This can also be observed when leaving the shade in the sun and vice versa.

Ski preparation tools.

A few words should be said about the required tools. After reading some articles, ski beginners may have the opinion that dozens of tools need to be purchased to prepare skis. For professionals, this is possible. But beginners can get by with only the most modest set. By the way, we have prepared several options for ski preparation kits in the section.

If the sliding surface of your skis is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool for preparing the skis will be. The rest of the necessary tools are a scraper and 2 types of brushes - copper (for preliminary removal of dirt and remnants of old wax) and nylon (for polishing the structure after applying new wax).

New skis, regardless of whether you will then subject them to hot waxing or not, are best treated with an iron. We do not recommend using an ordinary household iron, since there is a possibility of burning through the plastic - an irreversible effect that will greatly worsen the sliding properties of the plastic. Primary treatment should be performed with positive soft paraffin, the melting point of which is about seventy degrees. It is necessary to set the temperature of the iron to the minimum at which the paraffin will melt, and start heating the ski, smoothly running the iron from the toe to the heel of the ski. It is necessary to monitor the temperature of the iron and ensure that there is always a layer of paraffin on the iron and ski honey. This method of processing is suitable if you do not intend to further apply paraffin using an iron.

The main tools used in preparing skis:

1. used to remove wax residues. We recommend choosing a scraper with a special rounding so that it is convenient to remove the wax from the grooves of the ski.
2. ... Used to remove wax residues after scrubbing skis. If you plan to use hot paraffin wax, then you definitely need such a brush.
3. ... Used to prepare new skis, to remove the lint left from the sander on the sliding surface. The cost of this tool is not great.
4. ... Non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. Used by professionals when applying expensive accelerators.
5. Sandpaper. It is used for sanding the ski pads in the classic style so that the ointment will better adhere to it in the future. Not necessary. Any fine grit sandpaper is suitable for sanding.
6. Metallic cycle. Used to remove the old structure. An amateur will not need it. Cycling the ski requires a special machine and certain skills. But spoiling skis with this device is very simple.
7. with which a new temperature structure is applied to the sliding surface. For amateurs it is not necessary. Manufacturers apply sufficient texture.
8. ... It is used for preliminary cleaning of the ski structure and for removing old paraffins.
9. ... It is used to remove holding ointment and sliding paraffin. It is desirable to purchase. A very useful thing.
10. ... Used to smooth out holding ointments. Plastic rubbing is best used for ointments, and cork - for accelerating paraffins. A must-have tool.

Accessories.

Selection of ski waxes.

Depending on the level of training of the skier, you can in our store or collect your own:

1) Minimum. Suitable for walking in the woods on plastic skis. You don't have to buy paraffin wax and a bunch of tools. It is enough to purchase a set of holding ointments. You need to lubricate the skis under the block, rubbing with a synthetic cork, so that there is no recoil. This will be enough for walking.

Composition: three to four cans of holding ointment, with a temperature range from zero to minus fifteen degrees. And one rubbing cork.

2) Sufficient. Complete and intelligent ski maintenance kit. With it, you can ride in any weather, and even participate in some competitions.

Composition: a minimum set plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, ski iron, remover, brush, scraper.

3) Advanced. A set that will fit well for a well-trained professional athlete.

Composition: a sufficient set plus a set of holding ointments with fluoride, a set of paraffins with fluoride, knurls, accelerators, sprays and emulsions.

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