You have firmly decided that there will be no happiness in life without skiing. We decided very correctly. Until this moment, winter for you was just a cold slippery season, and you were looking forward to spring.
Main rack.
Now that you have purchased your own skis, everything has changed radically.
Remained nonsense - to learn how to manage skis. There is nothing complicated in this, the cycle of lessons given below is quite sufficient for self-study of the basics.
For successful training, you must not skip anything, perform all exercises to automatism, watch out for possible mistakes.
We are sure you will succeed.
The first steps.
The warm-up is carried out with fastened boots, without skis and poles. Skiing is also a sport. And giving immediate load to "cold" muscles is fraught with unpleasant consequences.
Optimally, spend 8-15 minutes on warm-up, the colder it is outside, the longer. Exercises are not particularly different from morning exercises, but it is recommended to carry out it from top to bottom, from head to feet, with an emphasis on rotational and swinging movements.
An additional very useful exercise: running in a small circle with a turn and running in the opposite direction, clapping the leader's hands. It "warms up" well, teaches a quick reaction, the legs get used to the shoes.
After warm-up, the inner boot is "crumpled" over the leg, so the clips must be tightened additionally. The boot should be tightened as tightly as possible, but there should be no discomfort.
We remind you that the pants are on top of the boot, inside the boot there should only be a long toe made of thin thread.
Fold the skis with the sliding surface towards each other. The ski feet should be in an X-shaped position. Place the skis on your shoulder with toes first and hold with one hand closer to the toes. The front binding should be over the shoulder. Take both sticks in your free hand to maintain balance.
We put on the skis - evenly, without skewing, we insert the toe of the boot into the front attachment and press the heel hard, but without impact. The fastener should close with a characteristic click. If it does not click, it means that snow is crookedly inserted or stuck to the sole. We remove the ski by pressing with a ski pole or other boot on the pedal on the rear mount, remove the snow with light sliding blows of the sole against the front mount or with a ski pole.
The location of the exercise is plain. Yes, alpine skiing, but we will climb the hill a little later. The skis are shod, sticks in hand, do not wear stick straps. Skis hip-width apart parallel to each other.
We lay down with our shins on the tongues of our boots. The tibia should be nearly vertical in relation to the slope. The body is tilted forward. The arms are raised parallel to the slope, slightly bent at the elbows, the fists are slightly wider than the shoulders. The sticks should be parallel to the lower leg. This odd position of the chassis is called the "Main Rack (OS)".
Almost all of the controls for alpine skiing are based on a change in the Center of Gravity (CG). With the correct stance, the CG should be approximately above the front mount. If the stance is incorrect - initially all attempts to make a turn will be unsuccessful.
Most of the errors and crashes in further riding, regardless of the class, are associated precisely with errors in the OS. Alpine skiing is controlled from socks. Therefore, the sensation of pressing the lower leg on the tongue of the boot should ALWAYS be present when riding!
If you feel the pressure of the calf muscle on the back of the boot - the OS is lost, the skis are uncontrollable, you need to "catch up" with the skis by moving the body forward.
Main Rack (OS) in the picture:
1. The lines of the back, lower leg and ski poles must be parallel.
2. See where to go!
3. The VU must be in front of the front mount, not above the rear! The back and lower back should be in a straight line, the lower back should not be protruded or lowered!
4. Do not lower your hands! Hands have weight + work as a lever, with the hands down, the CG will go back, then see p. 3.
5. Press the shin on the tongue of the boot!
6. The position of the skis is hip-width apart, neither narrower nor wider at any moment of movement. As legs grow - so let them stand.
Basics of movement.
Exercise # 1.
Herringbone rise.
We turn to face the elephant, spread the socks of the skis as wide as possible. Make sure that the backs of the skis do not overlap. Sticks stick outside the skis!
We put the skis on the inner edges. Leaning with both sticks on the slope, take a small step up the slope. We put the other leg, move the CG forward, rearrange the sticks.
The trail from the climb should resemble a herringbone with the top down. The herringbone climb is used in flatter areas than the ladder.
Exercise number 2.
Climbing the "ladder".
We stand across the slope, skis in parallel, we rest against the slope with sticks. We bend our knees to the slope, the skis stand on the edges. We stick the upper stick higher up the slope, transfer the CG to the lower ski, raise and rearrange the upper ski 15-20 cm higher.
We transfer the CG to it and attach the lower ski, behind it a stick. The ski trail should resemble a ladder. During the ascent, you must constantly keep the skis on the edges to avoid slipping down.
Exercise number 3.
U-turn on a slope by stepping.
Exactly the same as in the plain, but with small details. We stand across the slope. We rest with sticks down the slope, turn the body down the slope too, put the skis on the edges.
We move the back of the upper ski up the slope, the skis should stand in a V-shape. In small steps, alternately move the backs of the skis. The toes of the skis should be kept close to each other at all times.
The greater the distance between the backs of the skis, the more stable the position. Only the heels need to be rearranged, the socks should not be torn from the snow.
We move until the moment when we are again across the slope. You need to repeat the exercise several times, clockwise and counterclockwise.
Exercise number 4.
Direct descent.
It is carried out on a very gentle slope, always with a long roll-out or counter-slope.
- We climb the slope with a “herringbone” or “ladder”, we become across the slope.
- Leaning on the sticks, we put the skis in parallel.
- We accept the main stance, start moving.
- We hold the main stand until it comes to a complete stop.
Exercise number 5.
Exercise for coordination and balance
The same sliding in a straight line, but in motion we alternately raise one leg and continue sliding on one ski without losing the main stance.
Exercise number 6.
Gliding with a change in direction.
The same glide in a straight line in the main stance, but adding a few steps to the side. In the process of sliding, we raise one leg, put it a little in a groan and continue to move on this ski, raise the other leg and put it on. Skis should run parallel.
Raise the entire ski, not just the toe. Again, don't lose the main stance! If the skis "spread out" and the toe rises, this is a mistake, the CG has shifted back.
Exercise number 7.
We coordinate movements.
With a direct descent, we perform the same exercises for coordination of movements as on the plain - we take out the front bindings with our hands.
When performing this exercise, it is important not to squat, but to bend the body at the waist in the right direction. After each "pulling out" we accept the main stance.
Exercise number 8.
Turn from a straight descent by stepping.
In a straight descent, to turn to the left, raise the left leg and move its toe to the left by 15-20 cm.
- We put the right leg.
- We continue to rearrange the skis until the turn across the elephant.
- We continue to move until a complete stop.
- We repeat the exercise several times in different directions.
Exercise number 9.
Body and arms in basic stance.
1. The sticks should be parallel to the shins.
2. Knees should point along the skis. You can't bring your knees inward!
3. The distance between the toes of the skis is visually 10-15 cm, between the heels - as wide as possible.
4. Elbows do not touch the body, fists never drop below the waist.
Do not protrude elbows to the sides - "we do not carry watermelons!"
Exercise number 10.
The venue is a very gentle slope with a long slope or counter-slope.
- We climb the slope "herringbone" or "ladder".
- We are getting across the slope.
- Move the sticks down the slope.
- We turn the body down the slope.
- By stepping (in small steps), we unfold the skis along the line of the water slope. - The first step is with the top ski!
- Leaning on the sticks, we take the "plow" stand by slipping.
- We remove the sticks to the position of the main stand.
- We start moving with a slight forward tilt of the body.
- While moving, we spread the heels to the sides.
- We notice how the speed changes with these vertical movements.
- We are trying to achieve complete control over the speed of movement, but we do not stop.
- At the end of the descent, we widely spread the backs of the skis and move the body back a little. There should be a rather abrupt stop.
- We keep the plow to a complete stop.
We repeat the entire exercise several times until it becomes automatic.
A - the distance between the backs of the skis is large, the speed is small.
B - the distance between the backs of the skis is less, the speed is higher.
C - stop. The distance between the backs of skis is greater than A.
We fold the body back a little.
Plow braking and stopping is your lifesaver in the most difficult and unpredictable moments.
Even great craftsmen use the plow in extreme cases. There are cases in which nothing but a plow can be slowed down, for example, a narrow road in a forest, an icy area, transportation of cargo.
Exercise number 11.
Plow turn right (initial carving).
1. The venue is a very gentle slope with a long slope or counter-slope. We accept the plow position in the main stance and start moving down the slope.
2. During movement, the load on both skis is even. Knees overcame the tips of the skis, you can't bring your knees together!
3. Smoothly transfer the CG to the left leg.
We bend the hip, knee and ankle joints.
Yes, the ankle needs to be bent!
The boot should bend.
4. Press the foot of the left foot on the inside of the boot (ie load the left foot). We are trying to reach the toe of the ski with our knee. Of course, this is not possible, but the direction of the load must be exactly there.
5. Correct body position in the turn according to the picture:
The red lines are drawn at an angle equal to the slope of the slope.
The lines of the shoulders (1), arms (2), hips (3), knees (4), ski toes (5) should be parallel to the slope and to each other.
6. The right leg is relaxed as the whole body weight is on the left leg. The task of the right leg is to keep the "plow" position, as in the picture.
7. The load on the left leg should be constant.
8. Do not try to help your left leg rotate by forceful rotation of the heels, shoulders, hips. Will not help. The ski cannot turn instantly. Just stand on it and wait. Will definitely turn.
9. Turn until the ski is across the slope. We slide a few more meters to the stop.
Exercise number 12.
1. Load the right leg.
Ski at the expense of carving geometry begins to "cut" the turn. We turn to the position when the lower ski becomes across the slope, the field of which we smoothly put the upper (left) leg so that the skis become parallel.
Move the top ski gently, being careful not to tear it off the snow. Never lift the toe of the top ski - this will result in a rear stance and a fall.
Do not let the loaded (right) ski slip, do not try to break the ski out of the arc it is leading, by force or jerk. When moving along the traverse, we tilt the knees a little towards the elephant so that the skis move on the edges.
According to the picture: Plowing (1) diagonally on the slope; by putting the upper leg on, we go out on parallel skis in the main stance (2); knees are slightly inclined towards the slope (3); both skis run on the edges, the load on the lower ski prevails (4).
Exercise number 13.
From the picture: The whole turn consists of two phases:
Phase 1. Left turn:
- Load the inside of the right ski (1) - turn it to the left (2).
- We unload the right ski (3) by equalizing the pressure on both skis to reach the water slope line.
Phase 2. Right turn:
- Load the inside of the left ski (4) - turn to the right (5).
- We unload the left ski by equalizing the pressure on both skis to reach the water slope line.
Both phases are done smoothly, without the use of physical force and jerks.
The unloading phase is needed in order to link the turns "to the right" and "to the left" into one "snake".
We will repeat it again !!! Very important!!!
- Having taken the starting position, we begin the turn.
- To do this, load and gradually edge the outer ski (right) to the turn to the inner edging.
- The inner ski remains unloaded and continues to move in the plow position.
- From this it turns out that loading the right ski - you turn left.
- And vice versa: loading the left ski - you turn right.
Perform turns as many times as necessary to automatism in movements. You should feel, not think, which leg is left-right and where is the inner part of the boot, and where is the outer part.
Important: in all phases, do not bring your knees together, do not lose the main stand, load only !!! the inside of the boot, keeping all parallels.
If you do everything right, you will get a piece of the most real cut, carving turn.
The lower ski should leave behind a characteristic trace - a smooth, thin arc.
If there is a smear - the ski is not on the edge, it is slipping, or you are trying to turn it by force.
Don't strain yourself.
Alpine skiing takes an honorable second place in the universal rating of pleasures. But in order to get this pleasure, you need to relax, by analogy with the first place in the rating.
From carrying skis to dealing with difficult situations, the following video, prepared by experienced ski instructors, covers all the steps and aspects of training, covering the selection of equipment and equipment, basic training, plow turns, traverse descent and gliding turns.
THE MAIN THING! Tasks, exercises, examples that you will find in these films will help you in the future to carry out training on your own.
Ski school of the resort "Bukovel"
Ski school in Sorochany resort
CHILDREN who already know how to do something and can show their skills!
Depending on the purpose, alpine skiing is divided into three categories: for skiing on trails with sharp turns, with a medium or long radius. Riding comfort and safety, as well as maneuverability depend on the accuracy of the model selection. This article will tell you about the main criteria for choosing a carving ski.
Classification by purpose
Universal alpine skiing. Such models are designed for riding on prepared tracks of different types. Extreme models - designed for difficult terrain, mostly off-piste. Suitable for freeriding and freestyle, they are also used by fans of sports that are not so popular in our country: powder and ski touring.
According to the class of skiers, models are divided into unisex, for women's and children's skiing. A separate classification is provided by the level of skiing: for beginners, amateur skiers with an average level of training, experienced masters and athletes. An excellent selection is presented in Bogner stores in Moscow, here you can also get professional advice on finding a suitable pair.
Carving skis
Such models are also called trace models. Designed for skiing on prepared slopes. They glide perfectly on the spent surface, allowing you to enjoy high speed. These models are characterized by high rigidity: both longitudinal and torsion (for twisting), the waist usually does not exceed 73 mm. Due to this design, it is possible to compensate for centrifugal forces when riding at significant speeds, to avoid entering snow or ice.
The key parameter is the radius of the arc, the larger it is, the higher the maximum speed. It is influenced not only by the skill of the skier, but also by the design features, in particular, the radius of the side cutout. According to this parameter, three types of models are distinguished: slalom, with medium and long radius. Below we take a closer look at each of the categories.
Sidecut radius
Sidecut radius is a parameter that characterizes the minimum value when turning. There are three classes of skis:
- With a short radius. They are characterized by lower longitudinal rigidity than giant slalom, the turning radius usually does not exceed 9-10 m with an average length, they are characterized by a significant difference between the width of the toe and the waist. The optimal choice for riding with frequent edge changes.
- With an average radius - within 12-17 m. Suitable for riding at medium speeds, provide decent maneuverability.
- With a long radius - up to 17-25 m, with high rigidity. Suitable for lovers of high speeds on wide tracks - from 50 m. With good acceleration, the speed can exceed 80 km / h.
When choosing carving skis, you should be guided by the style of skiing. If you have to choose a model for a beginner, you should give preference to skis with less rigidity, in other cases, it is necessary to take into account the individual needs of the skier.
Before looking for specific skis, you need to decide what you plan to do on the slopes.
How to choose alpine skiing for the intended purpose
Carving or piste skiing (Carving)
Dynastar carving skis. evo.comThese skis are designed for skiing on ready-made ski slopes, allow you to easily enter sharp turns and ride with carving equipment - not on the entire sliding surface, but only on the edges (narrow metal strips along the edges of the ski, with the help of which turns are made).
Unlike racing skis, carving skis are softer and can be ridden with imperfect technique. Therefore, they can be chosen by beginners and those who prefer prepared slopes.
What to buy
Skis for professional racing (Racing)
Salomon racing skis. evo.com These are special carving skis for slalom (SL), giant slalom (GS), super slalom (SG) and downhill (DH). The models differ greatly in geometry and features, are designed for athletes and cost a lot.
What to buy
Universal skis (All-mountain, All-terrain)
Universal skis Armada. evo.com These skis are suitable for skiing on tamped slopes, and for freeriding on virgin soil, and for downhill skiing. Such skis are inferior to specialized ones, but their capabilities are quite enough for comfortable amateur skiing.
What to buy
Freeride skis (Big-mountain, Backcountry)
Salomon freeride skis. evo.com These are wider skis for skiing on unprepared slopes. The increased width of the skis keeps the freerider on deep, fluffy virgin soil, and also allows jumping off the rocks without compromising health.
What to buy
Park skis for freestyle (Park & Pipe, Freestyle)
Park skis Moment. evo.com These are skis designed for acrobatics and jumping from trampolines in special parks, passing mogul tracks.
Park skis are often twin-tip models with an equally curved toe and heel. In such skis, the freestyler can comfortably land after jumping from the springboard with both his back and face.
What to buy
Having decided on the purpose of the skis, you can proceed to the selection of a specific pair. In this case, several parameters must be taken into account: length, stiffness and radius of the side cutout.
We will not consider skis for professional racing, since they are selected in accordance with a specific sports discipline, and the pros do not need any recommendations. Better to focus on the selection of equipment for beginners and progressives.
Alpine skiing parameters
Length
The length of alpine skis depends on their purpose and the width of the waist - the narrowest point of the ski.
- Carving, freestyle... To pick up carving or park skis in height, subtract 5-10 cm from your height.
- Freeride... If you choose less wide skis (with a waist of 80 mm), subtract 5 cm from your height.If you are wider (waist from 90 to 110 mm), add 10 cm.
- Universal... If you choose skis with a waist less than 85 mm, subtract 10 cm from your height. If your waist is more than 85 mm, a suitable length will be –5 to +5 cm for your height.
Rigidity
Rigid skis allow you to develop high speed without losing stability, including during turns. However, to ski hard, you need good technique.
Carving skis have greater longitudinal and torsional rigidity than general-purpose skis. This compensates for the centrifugal force that occurs at high speed. With a lack of rigidity, it will not be possible to make a clear turn: the skis will break down to side slip.
The more weight, the harder the skis are needed to hold it.
It will be more convenient for beginners and amateurs to ride soft skis, for example, universal skis. They allow you to make mistakes in technique and provide a more comfortable ride. In addition, the harder the ski, the higher the price, so for amateur skiing, it is preferable to choose soft ones.
As a rule, ski stiffness indicators are indicated on the product card or on the ski tag.
Sidecut radius
The radius of the sidecut (Sidecut) depends on the geometry of the ski. The larger the radius, the wider the arc your skis will follow.
Carving skis are divided into several types depending on the skiing style. Slalom ones have a short radius of 9–12 meters, which allows them to move in small arcs. Long-radius skis with indicators of 17-25 meters are designed for wide slopes and allow you to reach high speeds.
There are also medium radius skis with indicators from 12 to 17 meters. Due to the reduced radius, these skis obey better when cornering and, unlike long-radius skis, allow you to ski on rather narrow slopes clogged with people.
The radius of universal skis is 15 to 18 meters. This radius is suitable for those who are just mastering the ski slopes.
Due to the increased width, freeride skis have a large sidecut radius - about 20 meters. It is better to choose such models for trained skiers.
Alpine skiing constructions
Now there are three main designs of alpine skiing and many mixed options.
The core of these skis usually consists of several layers of wood and synthetic materials and is reinforced with carbon or fiberglass mesh.
The core is closed from the sides with plastic walls, from the top - by a decorative strip, and from the bottom - by a sliding surface. Due to several layers of the core, the strength of the ski increases and the shock absorption increases.
Unlike Sandwich, such skis do not have side or decorative strips, and the core is closed by one monolithic structure that reaches the edges.
Cap provides lighter weight and more torsional stiffness to the ski, which in turn enhances handling. In addition, production is less expensive, and therefore such skis are sold at lower prices.
Monocoque
This is the development of the Salomon brand, a one-piece composite body to which a sliding surface is glued. A core made of wood or lightweight synthetic materials is installed inside the body.
Skis made with Monocoque technology have high torsional stiffness and low weight, which provides stability when cornering and less sensitivity to uneven track.
Apart from these three designs, there are a large number of mixed designs. For example, Monocoque-Sandwich or even Cap-Sandwich, when the middle of the ski is made according to one technology, and the ends according to another.
Alpine skiing materials
Alpine ski cores are made from light wood, plain foam, or a combination of wood and synthetic materials.
Wooden cores perfectly dampen vibrations, provide good controllability of the ski and uniform elasticity along the entire length.
In cheaper skis, foam cores can be found. For example, the Cap structure is filled with lightweight synthetic foam. Foam does not provide the same stability and resilience as wood, but it weighs less.
Foam core. backcountry.com The next layer is the braiding of the core made of composite materials. The stiffness of the ski depends on it to a greater extent. The braid is made of fiberglass, carbon and other fibers combined with epoxy resin. To increase the rigidity, the braid can be supplemented with metal plates made of light alloys, such as aluminum and titanium.
Combined materials are also used in the production of sliding surfaces. For example, polyethylene with the addition of graphite. Graphite reduces the electrostatic charge, due to which small ice crystals and dirt adhere to the sliding surface, while polyethylene ensures better retention of the ointment on the surface.
How to choose ski bindings
The choice of mounts depends on several parameters.
1. Fastening standard. There are several binding standards that are suitable for boots with a certain type of sole:
- Alpine Mounts... Fits ISO 5355 soles. This standard applies to most trail shoes.
- Frame mounts... In such mounts, the front and rear are connected by a frame. Due to this, the skier can not only ride with a fully secured foot, but also unfasten the heel to go skiing, for example, uphill. Most of these bindings are ISO 9523 (Touring) compatible.
- WTR (Walk to Ride)... Developed by Salomon. Bindings for boots with a higher WTR sole, equipped with a protector for a comfortable walk.
- MNC (Multi Norm Compatible)... These bindings will fit any outsole standard: ISO 5355, ISO 9523 and WTR.
2. Elasticity of fastening... This is the maximum force at which the fastener will not open, but will return the boot to its place.
Carving ski bindings have little elasticity. It is enough to move the boot 1 cm, and everything will unfasten.
Freeride bindings are more flexible because they are heavily stressed when riding wide skis on unprepared slopes. To unfasten the freeride mount, the boot must move to the side by 2.5–3 cm.
3. Width of ski stop... A ski-stop is a metal bracket that is needed for braking if the ski is unfastened. It looks like two wires on the sides of the mounts.
The waist (narrowest point) of the ski should be narrower than the ski stop. Otherwise, you will not be able to put on the ski carrier.
If the brace of the ski stop is too wide, it will protrude far beyond the boundaries of the ski and cling to the snow when skiing. Therefore, select a ski mount only after choosing the skis themselves.
4. Features of fastening on the ski... Bindings are installed on skis in different ways.
- With screws... This is the most reliable installation method. Downside: you can't use multiple skis with the same binding. In addition, the screws slightly disturb the structure of the skis, so if you want to change bindings, holes will remain from the old ones.
- On a platform with holes... Some skis have a bindings platform. In this case, it is better to buy mounts from the same manufacturer: the holes of the platform will coincide with the mounts and you do not have to spend a lot of time on installation.
- On a platform without holes... If a platform with no holes is attached to the ski, any mounts will fit it, since you will make the holes yourself.
- On a platform with guides... For such platforms, special fasteners are needed, which are put on the rails, after which the screw is tightened. Such bindings can be easily changed to suit the size of the boot, which can be useful if several people are skiing on the same skis.
How to choose sticks
1. Material... Poles can be made of aluminum or carbon fiber and fiberglass. When choosing models made of aluminum, pay attention to the numbers on the stick. For example, 5086 or 6061 is an indication of the alloy. The higher the number, the harder and stronger the alloy.
Models made of carbon fiber and fiberglass are lighter, stronger and more expensive than aluminum ones, however, they do not last forever: if you damage a stick made of composite materials with the sharp edge of the ski, it will quickly break under load.
2. Form... Sticks for normal riding are straight. For downhill slopes, such as giant slalom, curved. This shape allows athletes to remove the pole rings behind their backs during the descent, increasing aerodynamics.
the-raceplace.com 3. The size and shape of the rings... The rings at the bottom of the stick are designed to keep the stick from going deep into the snow. Freeride models have large rings to keep the stick well on soft, fluffy snow. Poles for piste skiing are equipped with small rings that will not interfere and cling to the boots during skiing.
Some manufacturers make poles with replaceable rings for different riding conditions.
4. Stick length... This is the most important indicator.
To find the perfect length, turn the stick over and grasp it under the ring. If, in this position, a right angle forms between the forearm and shoulder, this stick is suitable for you. Some experts advise adding 5-7 cm to this length in order to take into account the immersion of the stick in the snow.
Put on your ski boots before choosing your poles: they will add a few centimeters to your height.
As for the lanyard (the strap that secures the stick to the hand), it is not advised to wear it. The ski bindings will automatically release your boots when you fall, but you are unlikely to be able to remove the lanyards from your wrists as quickly. And this is fraught with injury. Therefore, you can easily choose sticks without lanyards or cut them off after purchase.
What to buy
Parameters of ski boots
To begin with, we will tell you what characteristics ski boots have, and then we will figure out how to choose boots depending on your skiing style.
Rigidity
This characteristic indicates how much effort is needed to change the angle of inclination of the boot shaft. The harder the boot, the better the effort from your muscles is transferred to the skis.
Soft boots dampen the effort by flexing the bootleg. As a result, ski handling is reduced.
The stiffer boots you buy, the easier it will be to handle your skis.
However, hard boots have a drawback: while riding, they can rub your feet, cause pain and swelling. Therefore, beginners are not advised to buy too stiff boots.
Sole type
ISO 5355 standard. Most ski boots (carving and sport) have this standard soles.
ISO 5355 standard outsole.ebay.com Touring (ISO 9523). Standard boot for ski touring or cross-country travel with ups and downs. These boots have a higher rubberized sole with a deep tread. Sometimes shoes are sold with interchangeable overlays that allow them to be used with regular bindings.
Touring standard outsole. gearinstitute.com WTR (Walk to Ride) is the standard for freeride boots that require special WTR bindings. Some of these boots can also be used with Touring bindings.
WTR standard outsole. lugaresdenieve.com Shoe width
The width of the last is the distance between the walls of the shoe at its widest point. Should match the width of your foot. As a rule, this parameter is indicated on the boot, and you can measure your foot right in the store or rental: usually there are special rulers there.
There are boots with adjustable last width. They indicate a range, for example, from 100 to 150 mm.
Remember: in boots that are too wide, you will not be able to fix your legs well, so it will be difficult for you to control the skis while skiing. Therefore, it is better to focus on numbers and not buy shoes that are too spacious.
Thermoforming
It is the ability of the boot to conform to the shape of your foot when exposed to heat.
Inner boot made of thermoformed material. backcountry.com In some shoes only problem areas can be molded, in others the entire surface of the boot can be molded.
If the boots are marked Auto Fit, then they are thermoformed in the process of wearing, from the warmth of your feet. A few days of skiing is enough for the auto-shaped boots to adapt to your characteristics.
Before buying shoes, wear them around the store for 10 minutes. So you will understand whether your shoes are shaking or not, they need thermoforming or it is worth trying on others.
Custom Fit shoes are designed to be hot formed with a special hair dryer. Hot molding is done in the store after trying on, if it seems to you that the shoe fits in size, but presses a little in some place.
First, the boot is warmed up with a hairdryer for about 10-15 minutes, then you put it on, fasten the clips and stand for about 10 minutes. Then remove and leave for at least an hour until the material hardens in the desired position.
Warming
Ski boots are insulated with down, wool and various synthetic materials, such as hydrophobic insulation 3M Thinsulate.
Unlike natural materials, synthetic materials have the ability to wick moisture away from the body, so you won't skate in sweaty socks. In this case, they should also be made of synthetic material: it is better to leave cotton and woolen for other purposes.
How to choose ski boots for their intended purpose
evo.com These boots will suit you if you are going to ride exclusively on prepared slopes and only for pleasure. That is, you will not work on speed and technique, set personal records and get out of the track to ride on untouched snow.
Carving boots come in different hardness. For beginners, boots with a stiffness value from 60 to 100 are suitable, for progressive amateurs - from 100 to 130.
When choosing boots, do not pursue softness and convenience: in the store you will be comfortable, but on the track, when the skis are poorly controlled, this advantage will not seem so significant to you.
The outsole of carving skis is equipped with heels made of soft material. This allows you to comfortably climb stairs or walk on the floor, for example, if you are going to relax in a cafe.
The boot shafts are usually inclined at 13 degrees. There are four clips and a strap for extra fixation.
Pay attention to whether there is a canting adjustment knot on the inside or outside of the boot.
evo.com This knot allows you to adjust the boot to the anatomical features of the legs. For example, if you have X-shaped or O-shaped legs, adjusting the canting will allow you to tilt the boot so that your foot is straight on the ski.
This is an option for more advanced skiers who plan to improve their skiing technique. Sports shoes have maximum rigidity and an absolutely smooth sole: they are uncomfortable to walk in, so they are not suitable for relaxing rest. These are boots for those who prioritize skiing, training or competition. 
evo.com
These boots are designed exclusively for off-piste skiing. They are equipped with three clips, and the last one is inverted: this design prevents the clip from opening when riding in deep snow. Freeride boots also have a wider strap.
Freeride boots switch to walking and riding modes. If you have to go uphill, you can loosen the stiffness of the boot, and when the need arises, put the boots back into downhill mode, providing the necessary stiffness to control the skis.
Also, freeride boots are very lightweight, well insulated and do not allow moisture to pass through.
What to buy
That's all. If you have tips on choosing alpine skis and equipment for them, write comments. And good luck on the slopes!
Alpine skiing is gaining more and more fans. Many people prefer to spend their holidays not on the Cote d'Azur, but in ski resorts. To understand all the variety of ski production, it is worth carefully studying the characteristics of and.
- ALAN. The company from Slovenia, one of the most famous in the world. The latest technologies are used for manufacturing: RST Sidewalls - transfers energy to the edges for better cornering, and hydrocarbon fiber gives additional strength, which is highly appreciated by real professionals.
The designers of the company do not forget about the beauty of the shapes and top coat of the runners. The best skis of this brand include Amphibio technology, for separate production of right and left runners, combining two Rocker b Camber profiles at once.
- ... Alpine skis of the Austrian manufacturer Head are the most technologically advanced. Models of this brand are made of hollow threads, providing both lightness and strength of the ski. The manufacturer also launched systems: electronic control, Intelligence Chip.
The electronic control system allows the skis to react quickly to changes that occur, such as a decrease or increase in speed, as well as changes in snow density, which ensures good stability. The second system prevents loss of ski control in the event of contact with snow.
- ... This is a French brand that makes high-tech skis without changing the classic tradition. Most of the products are made in the unisex category. In episodes for women and children, there is little choice.
Salomon products have introduced unique technologies: Monocoque, V-shape, Powerline, 3D Race Carbon, Rocker. All of them are aimed at improving maneuverability, control control, and ensuring sufficient strength without making the structure heavier.
- ... American K2 skis are characterized by particular popularity and systematic modernization of the technologies used, which allows the brand to remain at the leading positions. A distinctive feature of the products is the MOD-monic vibration damping system, and the fastening is done without drilling holes. However, there is a significant drawback - these are the most expensive skis.
- ... The products of the Austrian company are notable for their variety. There are both expensive and budget models here. The design is characterized by lightness, increased torsional rigidity. Due to its increased stability, easy handling, it is well suited for beginner skiers.
- ... The Austrian company has been producing skis for over 30 years. The line for children and adolescents is in demand, thanks to technologies that ensure lightness of the design. For this are used: Ultra High Densolite and 3D Touring. The skis react instantly when cornering and gliding.
- ... The skis of this company are mainly designed for professional skiers. They are made of lightweight wood-core laminate and have double-layer side panels. This allows us to make products highly durable, stable, lightweight, and maneuverable.
- ... An Italian company that has been producing sports equipment since 1935. Deservedly included in the top ten manufacturers of alpine skis. Has its own technologies and design ideas.
- ... The German manufacturer has launched a line of ski equipment that is resistant to extreme temperatures and wear. However, the price is too high for the average consumer.
- SCOTT. American firm that produces inexpensive ski equipment. However, the quality remains high.
How alpine skiing works
Their design is considered a distinctive feature. It differs from other types of toe, heel, waist. The ratio of these values is called the radius, the smaller it is, the more maneuverable the skis, and the turns are sharper and steeper. The radius will be smaller than that of the classic ones.
Important! Low weight skis are less stable but easier to handle.
Thanks to the special design, ski models bend under the weight of the body along the entire length, and twist in the toe and heel. Therefore, it is necessary to choose skis not only taking into account height and weight, but also the skiing style. The required radius of the side cutout of the skis will depend on the last parameter.
What matters is the layout of the layers. There are 3 main types:
- sandwich;
- box.
In the first version, the plates are superimposed on each other, in the second, the remaining layers are laid on a strong base layer, and in the third case, a core is used, around which other materials are located. The box is also called a monococcus.
What skis to choose for a beginner
For beginner skiers, carving models are ideal. They have the necessary softness and design, thanks to which it is easier for beginners to cope with tight turns, as well as alignment in case of errors in movement.
Carving skis have a narrow waist, wide toe and the same heel, which contributes to quick mastering of maneuvers, however, the strength of the runners becomes weaker, which is compensated by the low cost.
Which skis are better to handle: Fischer or Solomon? A question that requires careful study of the characteristics. A brief overview will help to understand the features of technologies.
Luxury Carving Trend Ski 2018
Rossignol Pursuit 14-15
The model is easy to drive at high speeds. Due to the excellent grip of the edges on the snow, it is recommended for riding on short turns. They have their own design features:
- Central Dualtec;
- IPS Diamond;
- H Technology;
- VAS Complex Aramide / Basalt.
The cost is 19,000 rubles.
Rossignol Pursuit 400 Carbon 16-17
Pursuit 400 Carbon is suitable for advanced skiers. Differs in increased wear resistance. The nose and heel of the runners are perforated to reduce vibration and improve traction. The structure is equipped with:
- Prop Tech;
- Carbon;
- Oversized sidecut;
- Power turn rocker;
- Sidewall.
The cost is 26,200 rubles.
ATOMIC Vantage X 77 C 16-17
Considered the best alpine skiing for advanced skiers. The model is universal. Confidence is felt both on the slopes and off the piste. The skis are both powerful and lightweight. Implemented technologies:
- Power Woodcore;
- Firewall;
- Exo Profile;
- Carbon Tank Mesh.
The cost is 25,700 rubles.
Important! Atomic is a high-quality assembly and materials, so they justify the price.
Nordica NRGY 80 14-15
You cannot find the best all-purpose alpine skis; they roll well both on short arcs and at maximum speeds. Here the Nordica brand pioneered the technology used in freeriding. The most optimal option in terms of price-quality characteristics. It is better to start ski training with this model. Technology features:
- I-Core Torsion Brige TI;
- AM CamROCK.
Cost - 25,000 rubles
Salomon W-KART 14-15
W-Kart is characterized by quick response and maneuverability, even a fragile woman can cope with such easy handling. They perform best on prepared trails at high speeds in short arcs. The design allows for smooth turning without losing stability. Technologies used:
- 3D Sport Monocoque;
- Powrline;
- Ti Laminate.
The cost is 25,000 rubles.
Trendy alpine carving skis for the mid-range of 2018
Fischer XTR Cruzar 16-17
XTR is suitable for both beginners and advanced skiers. They are lightweight, which is good for smoothing out errors when moving. However, they are intended for use on cleaned tracks only. Technology features:
- Air Power;
- Fiber Tec;
- Ceradur;
- Rocker On-Piste.
The cost is 13,000 rubles.
Salomon Kiana W 15-16
A good option for beginners and advanced skiers. The box-like design allows the woman to feel confident when driving, while the rocker softens the turns. However, you should not use the model on straight slopes, as stability is not calculated for this.
The cost is 17,000 rubles.
Elan Explore 4 Plate 15-16
Suitable only for the initial stages of training, since the strength of the structure does not provide for sharp and abrupt maneuvers. The manufacturer has implemented technologies:
- Express;
- Fiberglass;
- Full Power Cap;
- Complex Woodcore.
The cost is 12,000 rubles.
HEAD Big Easy Classic 07-08
Unisex model for straight tracks as they are non-directional. It is not safe to maneuver on them - mistakes are in full view. Suitable for skating training.
The cost is 15,000 rubles.
HEAD Shape RX PR 14-15
Suitable for riding prepared slopes in all weather conditions, this is a great choice for beginners. The rigidity of the structure, the small radius of the side cutout in combination with high-quality assembly and fastening will delight the owner with maneuverability and grip for many years.
The cost is 16,000 rubles.
HEAD Primal Instinct PP9 15-16
Male beginners will love the design in black, which just instills self-confidence. The design assumes driving on cleared tracks without snowdrifts. They walk gently along the slope, absorbing the mistakes of an inexperienced skier. However, the price is overpriced.
The cost is 13,500 rubles.
Fischer XTR RC4 Speed 16-17
Well suited for off-road, snowy slopes. The small bow of the bow guides the skier well during steep maneuvers. And the specificity of the design avoids wobbling.
The cost is 14,000 rubles.
Economy Class Trend Alpine Carving Skis 2018
Rossignol Pursuit 11 Ca 13-14
For beginners, this is a great choice. Model with short piping and small radius for easy maneuvering. However, this option is not suitable for progressive athletes, since it is not designed for high-speed tracks, due to the lack of the ability to control the speed.
The cost is 9,500 rubles.
HEAD Rev 70 PR 14-15
The quality corresponds to the price - the rigidity is rather weak, they slide only on well-cleared tracks. However, they are easy to manage. Not a bad option for ordinary walks for the company.
The cost is 8 800 rubles.
Carving skis for kids
Children love to imitate adults in everything. And skiing is no exception. Therefore, children's skis do not lag behind adults in their popularity. The following models are considered in demand on the market.
Elan LiL 'Magic QT 13-14
An excellent option for girls with a wide range of sizes from 70 to 150. The design takes into account all the parameters for riding a little skier: lightweight versions of mounts, small dimensions, beautiful bright colors.
The cost is 9,000 rubles.
Elan Starr 16-17
The most popular model for boys with a bright blue color. The child will feel like a real alpine skier, thanks to the excellent maneuverability and high strength of the structure, which will instantly master a fast ride even on off-road. Wide range of sizes from 70 to 150.
The cost is 9,000 rubles.
Female models
Women's models differ from men's in reduced size, design, weight for a comfortable ride. The model is selected individually, taking into account the parameters. Which skis are better to use: Fischer or Rossignol?
Top ski brands for women:
- The Fischer Aspire (SMU) will delight both beginners and advanced skiers. Thanks to the Air power core and the offset of the toe attachment, it saves energy while riding. Designed for carving.
- Rossignol famous 4 are intended for beginners on the track only. The paulownia core reduces weight and the Rocker makes cornering easier. The runners slide even over snowdrifts.
Finding skis in the salon is difficult, so it is recommended to rent them first. And having already tested in practice, decide whether they fit or not. If this is not possible, take skis that fit the purpose. For casual walks, you can purchase simple models for beginners. In case of further improvement of skills, it is better to immediately take an option suitable for progressives.
There are four main parameters that affect the choice of skiing:
- The height of the skier.
- The weight of the skier.
- Skier skiing style.
- Skier's level of training.
What types of downhill skiing are there?
As you might guess, alpine skiing falls into several categories. The determining factor in this case is the level of technical and physical training of the skier.
In total, there are 4 categories of division of alpine skiing:
- Skis for beginner skiers
- Skis for advanced skiers
- Expert skis
- Skis for athletes
Alpine skiing for advanced skiers and experts are on the same level, both in terms of price and technical characteristics.
Respectively, alpine skiing for athletes belong to the upper price category. They are designed for a good command of the technique, as well as for a good physical preparation of the skier. These skis are the hardest and most resilient skis.
Sure, specialized alpine skiing models also exist. For example, these models include junior sports skis, women's skis and children's skis. Alpine skis are also divided into different categories according to their purpose: there are skis designed for amateurs of various levels:
- universal skis
- carving skis
- off-piste skis
- specialized sport skis
In order for the reader not to have a misunderstanding that entails questions, we will tell him about the types of skis listed above.
Carving skis
These are modern alpine skis, which are intended for skiing on the preparatory slopes of ski resorts. Such skis provide the ability to ride in short or wide deep arcs. The average width of the middle part (waist) of a carving ski is 63-68 mm on average. Carving skis have a big contrast between the width of the nose of the ski, its waist and the width of the back. The radius of the sidecut of the carving ski is from 10 to 17 m. Thanks to this geometry, the carving ski easily enters the turn and gets the opportunity to pass the entire slope without sliding with the entire plane of the ski, “on the edges”. During carving skiing, the skier loads both skis evenly, which cannot be said, for example, about the classical technique - with the load only on the outer leg to turn. Carving skis are not suitable for skiing in deep snow, but as for soft or hard (ice) groomed slopes, such skiing is perfect for these skis. As for the purchase of carving skis, they should be chosen 10-20 cm shorter than the height of the skier. If skis are purchased for skiing in the mountains and require stability at high speed, it is possible to take skis 5-15 cm shorter than the height of the skier.
Fan-carving, or rather, radical carving, is a subspecies of the above-described carving skis. These skis have a very large contrast between the width of the toe and the width of the waist of the ski. During skiing on such skis, the skier almost lies down in the turn on the slope, and often even touches the slope with his hand. And in the turn, the skier puts more load on the inner leg to turn.
Freeride
These are alpine skis, which are designed for off-piste skiing in the mountains. These skis are resistant to various snow conditions on the slope and passable in loose snow. They have a wider waist than carving skis: 80 mm or more. The radius of the sidecut of the ski is approximately from 17 to 30 m. As for the purchase of freeride skis, they are chosen with a length of plus or minus 5 cm in height. You need to be careful, as freeride skiing requires no less than an expert level of skiing. In addition to being the widest, freeride skis are also quite versatile and suitable for skiing on prepared slopes. The widest freeride skis have a waist of 90-110 mm, and they are designed for skiing on virgin soil, deep snow. Such skis (Powder) are chosen as long as a skier or up to 10 cm longer.
Universal alpine skis (All-Mountain, Allround)
A type of ski that provides the possibility of carving skiing both on prepared slopes and off-piste exits (on virgin lands, bumps, swells). These skis usually have a waistline of 80 mm (68 to 80 mm). The length of universal skis should be as tall as a skier or shorter by 10 cm.
Sports alpine skiing (Racing)
These skis are also called Race skis. They are characterized by maximum rigidity in order to provide controllability at high speeds and under heavy loads. Athletes use racing skis on steep sports tracks. In turn, sports skis are divided into several more subspecies:
- slalom skis
- giant slalom skis
- ski cross skis
- freestyle skis
Sports slalom skis- These are elastic skis with a side cut with a radius of about 7-15 mm. They have a large contrast between the width of the toe and the width of the waist. In terms of length, slalom skis are chosen in the same way as carving skis: they are 10-15 cm shorter than the height of the skier.
Sport skis for giant slalom and ski cross(their description can be combined) - these are hard skis, the side cut of which is 17-21 m. The length of these skis should be as tall as a skier or up to 10 cm shorter.
Freestyle skis Are skis designed for acrobatic exercises in specially prepared ski parks. Skis are designed for jumping from trampolines, acrobatics in the pipe and specially prepared mounds (mogul track). The twin-style freestyle skis feature highly curved, rounded backs that allow for a back-forward landing after a jump. Freestyle skis are usually universal for recreational skiing on all slopes.
How does ski performance affect ski behavior?
Wide ski - narrow ski
A narrower ski allows easier skiing on hard and icy slopes. It is lighter, it goes better on bumpy, uneven track. More agile and "lively", since less effort is needed to change the edge.
On deep snow and virgin soil, a wider ski is better. It does not "sink", it is more stable in direction and more stable.
As for the width of the ski toe, the wider the toe, the easier it is for the skier to turn. Alpine skis with a wide toe are mainly used for carving.
A wide-waisted ski is best suited for off-piste skiing. The wider the waist, the better the ski handling on different snow surfaces and the easier the ski floats in deep snow.
A ski with a narrower waist turns easier.
Alpine skis with a wide heel are used for carving. The wider the heel, the deeper the arch at the end of the turn.
The sidecut of the ski is made large on slalom and carving skis. The radius of the arcs a skier can ride is smaller depending on the depth of the sidecut. For example, on short slopes near St. Petersburg, a large cut allows for more arcs.
A shallow cut with a large radius is done on freeride skis.
For off-piste skiing, a ski is better suited, the toe of which is bent high.
Flat-toed skis are designed for slalom on the sports track, for carving on prepared slopes.
Soft ski - hard ski
For beginner skiers, soft skis are better suited, as they begin to bend ("work") at lower speeds and better absorb large irregularities in the terrain. Soft skis go better on thick snow and virgin soil. Ski models for beginners and for off-road freeriding are exactly soft skis.
On hard and icy slopes, hard skis hold better - they go “like on rails”. They lead the arc more clearly. They are more difficult to get into a turn, but at the end of a turn they give up all their energy. Rigid skis are designed for sports and carving on prepared slopes. They require a lot of both technical and physical training of the skier.
Long ski - short ski
Longer skis are more stable at speed, more stable and easier to ride on virgin soil. They are suitable for long and wide trails, for "big mountains".
Shorter skis turn more easily on slopes. They are more nimble, easier to walk on icy, hard slopes, on uneven and bumpy tracks. These skis are suitable for skiing on short, prepared slopes.
Modern ski construction.
There are 3 types of alpine ski construction, namely:
Sandwich.
In a ski, like a sandwich, several layers of materials are connected, each of which "works". The bottom and top layers usually provide rigidity, since these are the layers that are made of rigid materials.
The upper, rigid, layer acts as a constructive "bearing layer". The rest of the layers are attached to it from below.
"Box" (Monocoque).
The modern type of construction, which is opposed to the two traditional ones: "syndvich" and "cap".
In this design, the middle of the ski is wrapped in synthetic materials or metal braided on all sides. This provides a greater torsional rigidity of the ski, that is, the ski does not twist under load. The middle of the ski is made of wood or synthetic materials.
Such a ski is more stable in a turn, less sensitive to uneven terrain and goes gently along an arc.
In the characteristics of the ski, vibration damping (vibration damping), which occurs in the ski, occupies a rather important place. Micro bumps can be found on any slope. These are small bumps, traces from the "snowcat" or hard lumps of snow. During skiing, the ski experiences micro-shocks, as a result of which it begins to vibrate finely. At this moment, at the moment of vibration, the toe and heel do not adhere to the slope. Accordingly, contact is lost, and the controllability and reliability of the ski behavior are reduced. What determines the quality of ski vibration damping? - Her behavior at medium and high speeds. The better the vibration is absorbed, the more accurately the ski runs in an arc, the better it holds on a hard icy slope and the more stable it behaves at high speeds. Absolutely in all sports and expert skis, attention is paid to vibration damping. Where will the highest vibrations be present? - More like cheap skiing for beginners.
Installation of mounts.
Some of the modern alpine skis are supplied with bindings. The rest of the HB ski models have a platform that allows you to install only certain types of models. If the ski does not have this special platform, any fasteners for installation on screws are suitable for installation. It is advisable to install fasteners in service centers or special workshops at stores. In these locations, there are special templates for the installation of ski bindings from various manufacturers.
Firms that are the main producers of mining lyzh.
- Atomic;
- Dynastar;
- Dynamic;
- Elan;
- Extrem;
- Fischer;
- Head;
- Kneissl;
- Nordica;
- Rossignol;
- Salomon;
- Stokli;
- Volkl.
For children starting their alpine skiing career, we will offer skis 10-15 cm shorter than their height. If the child is already handling skis, then you can offer skis "in growth" for growth or at the discretion of the coach.
In general, the size of the skis is highly dependent on the specific model. If these are skis of classical geometry, then they are matched + 15 ... 30 cm in height. Modern skis of carving geometry are selected from -20 to +10 cm in height. Many manufacturers have special tables that simplify the selection of the correct size.