An old English proverb says, "A good horse is never a bad color." And this is so, because when choosing an animal, you need to take into account a number of important parameters. A properly selected horse will meet your requirements and will be able to complete the tasks for which it was purchased. If you need a horse, be sure to consider the recommendations for the correct choice.

What breed of horse is better to choose

The first question when buying is about the type or breed. It can be a racehorse, light-harness, draft horse, a horse for a show, a small pony for a ride. The answer to the question about the breed always depends on the purpose of the purchase: for example, a trotter cannot carry heavy loads - it is not hardy enough and is not adapted to this.

The character of the future pet is no less important: a restive stallion cannot roll children - he is too aggressive. A young and untrained horse will need good coach... And if the future owner is a beginner, then a horse who already knows a lot will suit him. This will make it easier for the inept horse breeder and his pet to interact.

For riding

Horseback riding is one of the popular destinations for which horses are bought. Regular park riding is not a particular style and any breed will do. BUT sports direction will definitely require the purchase of the horse that best matches the sporting parameters. Therefore, when choosing a breed, follow these rules:

1. For a walking ride, buy a horse of any breed.
2. For dressage and horse racing, Galloway undersized, English thoroughbred, and other breeds are suitable.
3. For triathlon - breeds with good balance.
4. The Welsh Pony, Draft Horse, Percheron, and Clydesdal are suitable for the sled horse competition.

The most famous breeds of racehorses: English thoroughbred, Andalusian, Kabardian, Arab, Akhal-Teke, Hanoverian, Ukrainian and others.

Among the harness horses are known shire, percheron, brabancon, Vladimir and other horses.
Shire is the largest horse breed in the world When choosing a sporting breed, find out everything about the achievements of the representatives of the chosen breed in a particular type of competition. Take a closer look at how the horses behave and what problems you may have with the representative of the chosen breed. If you visit an equestrian club - consult a trainer, he can make adjustments in your opinion. After evaluating all the factors, make the final decision about the breed.

Important!For racing, temperamental horses are not suitable for a beginner. Jumping will increase your adrenaline levels, and you risk losing control of such a horse.

For harness

Some breeds were bred to do a specific job. In principle, everyone can work, but someone can do it better. Any harness is suitable heavy-duty breeds or a cross between them. If the horse is to be used in agriculture, then it is necessary to correlate the required load and the capabilities of the representatives of a particular breed. For light loads, Oryol trotters are suitable, for medium loads - heavy trucks.
Oryol trotter

How to choose the right horse

Finding the right horse can be long and difficult. Once you have decided on the breed, there are several steps left to take to make sure you are right or come to a different opinion.

Conduct a kind of test drive for your future pet. The animal must understand and execute commands immediately, without reservations about "it will get used to it." If a relationship of trust does not develop between you and the horse, then it will be difficult for you to pacify the pet's willfulness. Be sure to chat with him. Check how much the horse trusts the stranger and will follow your commands. Take a walk together, see how he moves.

Video: What to look for when buying a horse

Age

The average life span of a horse is 30 years. For a beginner with no experience in communicating with animals, a pet about 7-8 years old is suitable. By this time, he is well trained, and his behavior will be able to give clues to an inexperienced owner. Taking care of such a horse and communicating with it is much easier.

If you find it difficult to determine your age, then an experienced trainer or veterinarian will help you with this. Age is determined by the degree of grinding of the teeth. Up to 15 years, the working surface of the cutters is grinded in the shape of a triangle, and for old horse the incisors are longitudinally oval.

Important!Up to 4 years old, a horse is considered a foal. All this time, it continues to grow.

Height and weight

The height of the horse should be such that you can sit on it without outside help... The host's weight also matters.
If the animal bends heavily under you, then it is difficult for it to hold your weight, and you will need another horse either effective diet in order to control the pet without any problems. The optimal height of an average horse is 168-172 cm.

Did you know?There are over 400 horse breeds in the world. The growth of the smallest of them- 76 cm, with the growth of representatives of ordinary breeds175 cm.

Appearance and health

Pet health is one of the most important points at the time of buying. The temperament and degree of activity of each animal is individual, but the signs of health are the same:

• the coat is clean, shiny;
• the skin is smooth, when moving, no swelling is noticeable on it;
• relief muscles;
• deep chest, regular rounded shape;
• visually correct bend of the back with prominent muscles and sloping croup;
• when walking, the genitals of the stallion should not be visible;
• there should be no signs of obvious inflammatory processes or wounds anywhere;
• the animal shows interest in strangers or objects;
• the membranes of the eyes are transparent;
• eyes are shiny, clean;
• any mucous membranes are clean, pink;
• when pressing on the mucous membrane, its color is restored in a second;
• breathing is even, without wheezing, coughing or sneezing;
• nostrils are clean, slightly moist, no discharge.

A healthy horse's intestines are emptied about 8 times a day. The chair is shaped like balls, not too dry. Stool color depends on the food that is included in the main diet. So, the presence of green herbs adds green tints to the stool.
Legs should be straight, well-muscled, hooves free of chips, cracks or other defects. Despite the fact that hooves are made of protein, they recover from injury for more than 9 months. Some dangerous infectious diseases also start in the hooves, so their excellent condition is extremely important for making a purchase decision.

When the animal is just standing, the tail should hang freely. If the horse is in pain, it tries to draw its tail. An attempt to distribute the weight to three out of four limbs will also indicate pain and the presence of pathology.

Did you know?It is believed that a healthy adult horse should eat roughage (hay, grass) in the amount of 2% of its own weight per day.

Stroke

The gait (gait of a horse) should be light and graceful. The slowest gait is the walk, as draft horses often move. The step allows the animal to save energy and move loads for a long time. At a trot, amble and gallop, the horses move on sporting events, while riding, etc. In movement, it is easy to notice defects in the limbs and hooves, which in calm state are not visualized.

Character

The character of an adult horse is an acquired quality. It depends on how the previous owner treated her. If the contact between the animal and the owner was not harmonious, it becomes stubborn, aggressive and nervous.

Finally, some people just enjoy the constant competition with a frenzied mount. In this case, Akhal-Teke horses are perfect for you. If we are talking about waywardness, then these magnificent handsome men are in the first place.

A horse that is purchased for riding for a child or for rental must be calm and peaceful.
Taking into account all the nuances when choosing a horse will make your choice extremely difficult. Therefore, just mark the items for yourself that are really important to you. Check the horse for these positions, and the pleasure of communication and the right choice you will be provided.

Choose the riding style you like or want to try. You probably like English with all the fancy English breeches and hunting jackets, or maybe Western style with shiny straps and ultra-thin hats. Whichever style you like, find out as much as you can about it. Each discipline is different and requires different styles of horses. Everyone claims that their style is the best. Choose the style that suits you. If you think you will look great in breeches, GREAT! Choose an English horse style. The most important thing when choosing a breed for your riding style is that you want to do it.

Choose a suit. Color is not so important if you are not going to participate in exhibitions. Performance is more important than color. Despite this, all horse owners, as a rule, choose the color they like. Some prefer spotted, others like chestnut or bay, and some prefer Appalusian or dun. Whichever color you prefer, try looking for a breed that has the color you like. When choosing a horse, temperament and health always come first; color must be secondary. However, if you do not like the color of the horse, there is a good chance that you will not match a horse of that color. If someone doesn't like the Appaloosa, they will not go next to her, the same with any other color. Real horse lovers do not choose a color, but choose a color of their choice. This is not the only color they like, but the colors they prefer the most.

A test drive or "test" of a horse is in a great way find out if you like the horse and if it is right for you. This is probably The best way choose the breed of horse. Like many horse breeds, different points of view can be interpreted in different ways. My friend had a palomino and he was mad or My sister had appaloosa and she was terrible... Have different people different views, so it's best to try it for yourself. Some animals can be ugly, angry, rude, or naughty. Others may actually be cute, cute and well-mannered, and quite smart and striking. As riders become more advanced in horse riding, they begin to learn more about horses in general, and begin to understand what they want from a horse. Most beginners want a horse of the same gender as themselves and with a personality that they like. Most guys want a rough and cute horse when girls want a cute horse or a really cute horse.

Choose the discipline you want to compete in. You have chosen a riding style such as English. The riding style has many activities and disciplines. For English: - dressage, show jumping, equestrian triathlon, horse harness riding, hunting landing, horse riding art (equestrian sport), demonstration performance, and so on. In the Western style, disciplines vary as follows: - Western Pleasure, the art of horsemanship and hozmenship (Western Horsemanship, figure riding skill), trail (a kind of parkour, passing obstacles), Reining (the most dynamic and spectacular competition), riding in western style, demonstration performances and keeping in check (Western Halter). There are also other disciplines, each of which is a distinct style. Terrain riding is neither English nor any other style other than really for the racing style. You may also like voltaging (gymnastics on the horse's back), polo and cross polo, equestrian competition, equestrian games, equestrian sports ... the list goes on. If, for example, you are interested in dressage, then the best horse breed for dressage would be the Galloway Tiny or Hack trained in this area if you settled on the style of horse racing (Eventing includes dressage, show jumping and terrain riding - so you need a horse that can do all three) such as show jumping, then you need a horse with good balance, toughness, well-mannered and of course ... that can jump. Some riders like to compete in the draft horse class or in the reins. This is a class served by workers, draft horses, light horses and ponies. The best breeds for these classes are generally draft horse breeds such as the Welsh Pony, Draft Horse, and Clydesdal. However, harness work can be done with many breeds and must be trained to do so. The best you can do is choose the discipline in which you want to compete or ride, and then look for a horse that meets the standards for the main competition in that area.

Select your horse breed. You've done your research, decided on your style and discipline, and now all you have to do is make the final decision. This step will provide some of the more obvious breeds to choose from, as you did above.

• Show jumping / riding: any horse breed is suitable. From horses used in agriculture to Appaloosa, ponies and mustangs. Stay away from HOT horses if you are a beginner, as racing can increase their excitement.
• Western: Typical Western breeds include Appaloosa, Paint Horse, Austrian, however, today's shows provide training for many other breeds to participate in such global events.
• Dressage: All breeds are suitable for dressage, however, there are some that are more suitable. These include the English Thoroughbred, Warmblood, Lipizzan and Connemara, as well as the common pony.
• English style: any breed of horse can be ridden in the arena. Some do better than others, but it's all about learning. Horses to stay away from will be treated as hot-tempered English purebreds, however if you are more advanced these breeds can do great on the arena. By other breeds that you can you to use are the Appaloosa, Austrian, Warmblooded, Farm Horses, Welsh Ponies and most breeds.
• Gymnastic riding: a horse with a dense, but best of all lean constitution is suitable, for example Lipizzan, Connemara, Pesheron and so on. However, strong horses with good endurance include Appaloosa, Horsespaint, and so on.
• For fun: A walking horse is just a horse that can be used for shows, trail riding, training, or just as a friend. Any breed is fine for fun; although if you are inexperienced then you need a breed such as the Tennessee Riding, Austrian, Appaloosa or Mustang. Of course, it mostly depends on how well the horse is trained. Here is a link describing 5 best breeds horses suitable for inexperienced riders and children:

A few tips for those who are planning to buy a young sport horse soon.

Perfectionism is the pernicious pursuit of excellence.

I would like to start by saying that I have not yet chosen my young horse :) Please do not judge me harshly - this is really a very difficult matter, and since I decided to approach the issue of choice with all seriousness, I have been choosing a horse for almost six months ... So, in order.

The idea to buy my own horse has been visiting me for a long time. Of course, at the very beginning of my reflections, I thought more about how I would show off on a magnificent horse - all like that in a tailcoat, I am eating kur. What prize is irrelevant (most likely Big, of course), the music is certainly energetic, the horse is superbly ridden ... In general, a dream. When it came time to think about buying a horse more substantively, I realized that, first of all, I need to decide what kind of horse I need.

After thinking it over properly, I came to the conclusion that I was choosing a horse to "ride it dressage", I have ambitious plans, I want to ride something more than just amateur N2 riding. You need a suitable horse, but ready-made horses are very, very expensive, and no one will sell a really good horse - why should you, if you can ride it yourself or prepare it for the Grand Prix and sell it at several times more expensive? Thus, I gradually came to the idea of ​​buying a young horse.

It is very difficult to keep a young horse, to prepare it, and all the work and money invested in the horse may end up being wasted - the horse may not justify the hopes placed on it. Moreover, if you have no experience in training a young horse, you need to enlist the support of someone to help you with this. In order for you to be able to provide the young horse with the conditions for correct development and growth, in addition to the mass of financial resources, your own experience of horse maintenance is vital for you - try to rent a horse, feel the hard way what it means to catch a farrier, call a veterinarian and negotiate rent. Try what it is like to ride a horse in the rain and snow every single day. One thing is an adult horse, which can be left to rest in a stall for a day, and quite another thing is a young horse, which needs to be worked daily and at the same time correctly!

If you firmly decided that a young horse (2-4 years old) is exactly what you need, go ... to the factory. Someone will say that it is very expensive and troublesome to transport a horse from the Krasnodar Territory or the Kaliningrad Region, it is better to buy it where you live, having examined the horse with a veterinarian and made X-rays, but there is one big "but" here. So big that, most likely, it will outweigh all the arguments of the supporters of this approach: everyone understands that someone has brought a young horse to Moscow in order to sell it profitably. It is clear that in order to sell at a profit for yourself, you need to buy it at the lowest price, and sell it at the highest possible price. At the minimum price, the factories sell, to put it mildly, not the most promising horses, plus it is always better to choose from what is, and not from what is offered. It is always possible to arrange for a horse to be brought on a horse transporter of the plant - in any case, it is worth at least a try. In short, when choosing a young horse, you need to think about how quickly you can sell it, at least for the same price for which you bought it, if the need arises.

Even deciding to go to the plant, you should still "get your eye on" the horses closer - it will be a shame if you spend money on a trip to Kaliningrad and not only get confused by the abundance interesting horses, but also, at a loss, choose something that in the end turns out to be the complete opposite of what you originally planned to buy. At home, look at all horses - young and old, consult with knowledgeable people - what is better to pay attention to when assessing the exterior and movements. In general, learn to speak to a breeder from a buyer's perspective! Most buyers are sure that there is someone who, and they firmly know what they need, and you will not be confused - I assure you, this is very easy to do, and almost all horse breeders love their job so much that even from a psychological point of view it's easy to convince you that his horses are the best in the world. Going, for example, to the Krasnodar Territory, remember that there is not one plant, but many - do not be lazy, go to at least a few, compare horses and prices - the result will work for you.

So, you go to the factory. The very first piece of advice is not to take money with you. Just so that there is no temptation. Of course, it is better to preliminarily agree on a meeting with the nachkon - with him, and not with an intermediary or "a person who knows everything there." This will save you time by making it clear in advance which horses you are interested in. However, you should not deliberately narrow the scope of choice to a minimum - for example, only stallions or only 2-year-olds. If you have decided in advance what kind of horse you need, practiced choosing and evaluating, you will not be confused by the abundance of horses, but it will be possible to compare the offered horses with each other and choose from many. This complicates the task, but you need a result!

3-4-year-old horses, in theory, should be more expensive than two-year-olds - labor is invested in them and they "ate" more. Stallions of this age are almost all hackneyed, with mares in this regard is more difficult, because those who have not yet been bought by this time are covered up at 4 years old. Nevertheless, upon arriving at the plant, you will almost certainly find that there are very few 3-4-year-old horses - because they were bought last year - and those that do exist can please you with their relative cheapness. Do not flatter yourself - miracles do not happen (or they happen very rarely), and most likely you are offered a horse that other buyers refused for some reason. If you want a young horse, but for some reason will not pull a two-year-old horse, your task is to find these reasons and weigh whether the game is worth the candle. In other words, is this horse worth the money that is asked for it?

After the initial inspection, ask to lead the horses you like on the lane - even if the horse is already worn out, natural movements and exterior are best seen in freedom, because under the saddle a lot depends on the skill of the rider. Before the horse is released, inspect the legs - if suddenly a bone or filling is found, it will be important to know whether it is warming up after work, whether it is decreasing (filling). Watch carefully that the horse runs exactly in both directions at all gaits - you should be especially alarmed that the horse is shown only when moving in one direction, in this case, this most likely means that problems will be noticeable when moving in the other. Take your time - it is better to spend more time right away than later, sitting at home, thinking about what else could be seen in this factory.

After looking at all the horses that they wanted, on the loose, after feeling for the second time on the bones or rallies found during the show, ask to saddle those who are still of interest and are driven. See how the horse behaves under the saddle, how it reacts to the rider, getting into the saddle, noise and "frightening" sounds and objects, which are everywhere. If the horse is clearly inadequate under the saddle of a professionally young horseman, you will probably not be fit. Sit in the saddle yourself, try how comfortable the horse is for you, how it reacts to your commands - ideally, a horse that has been properly groomed and worked for three months should respond to the leg and reins, switch on command from step to trot and from trot to step, make stops.

After you have seen the horses under saddle, it is best to take a break and go to another farm, or just rest and digest the information. If there are a lot of horses, attention is inevitably dulled and by the most crucial moment - a thorough examination of the most likely candidates for purchase - you will come up completely exhausted and tired. Relax, re-read the notes, watch the footage, and the next day, decisively go to inspect those you like the most.

I will make a reservation in advance that it is very expensive to carry a veterinarian with you, but those who buy very expensive horses must bear such expenses. If the cost of a horse is relatively low, and you have experience in examining a horse (you rented a horse for a long time, watched many horses with experienced people), you can easily do on your own - the main thing is not to rush, not to worry and write down everything you see :)

First, pay attention to the behavior of the horse in the stall, observe how it behaves when a person enters it - if it bounces fearfully into the corner or, on the contrary, rushes at the one entering, think about whether you need such problems. Having taken the horse out into the passage, inspect the legs - if there are any bumps, fillings, biting midges, whether the legs are straight (if there are any markings). Check if the hooves are in order - cracks, especially deep ones, are very difficult to heal, and a narrow heel will always be a problem when shoeing. For everything that you have found, ask the seller - where did it come from, when it appeared and how it is treated. Remember that any scar can be evidence of damage not only to the skin, but also to the tendons - a horse that has had an injury is most likely not suitable for sports.

The horse's back should be free of wounds and bumps, and the horse should not sag with light pressure on the lower back. Any literature says that a narrow ganache can interfere with high dressage collection - keep this in mind. Seeing a combed tail, you should definitely ask when in last time deworming was carried out - more than one horse died from worms in its prime! Check if the horse sees with both eyes - it is very easy, just wave your hand (not very sharply - just so that you can see the movement) while standing a little to the side of the horse's side. If the horse reacted, it means he sees.

The seller probably told you the measurements of the horse - nevertheless, do not be lazy, measure it. For a young horse, measurements are one of the most important criteria by which to judge growth prospects. Take a centimeter with you - it may not be in the stable, and if it does, it may not be given to you, as well as a measuring stick. To be on the safe side, measure at home - no matter how ridiculous it sounds - the distance from the floor to the eyebrows. This "browning" will help you if you are not allowed - tactfully or categorically - to measure the horse.

Ask to lead the horse along the aisle at a walk and trot - it should run smoothly, not raking in front of it, not limping. Ideally, a flexion test should be performed on each leg: bend the leg harder, keep it bent for a minute and then immediately start the horse at a trot - it should run smoothly, without complaining or stumbling. When the horse will be led into the stall, pay attention to whether it enters calmly - you do not want to fly into the stall with it every time you hang a helpless flag on it.

This is how ALL horses of interest should be viewed. It takes a lot of time and patience, as well as persistence and pressure, but it pays off handsomely when the time comes ....

Discuss the results of the trip with a specialist. Because the it comes about my personal experience, then these are employees of the Trakehner department of VNIIK. Surprisingly responsive and dedicated people, they never refused to consult on the phone and readily provided the opportunity to dig into the studbooks. Why is this needed? Then, that VNIIK has accumulated invaluable experience in horse breeding, information about sires and queens, the quality of offspring. It is likely that the parents of the horse you like did not give their children anything good, and vice versa - the horse, which seemed ordinary to you, but healthy and tall, comes from wonderful parents who steadfastly pass on their qualities to their offspring. Anyway, the time spent on the trip to VNIIK and sitting in the archives will give you the opportunity to think again if you need all this :)

At VNIIK, you should be interested in the parents of the candidate for your favorites (working qualities, the results shown, information about temperament - for example, they told me about the complex character of Topkoy), the compliance of the horse's measurements with the breed standards and the measurements of the parents, the test results (if the horse passed them). It is very important that the seller-farm is not noticed in the malicious misinformation of VNIIK about the origin of its horses, does not shy away from providing data on the tests carried out. All this information will help you to substantively discuss the horse with experts and make the right choice.

It will be better if you discuss the horse you have chosen with people you trust. The more, the better. And try not to treat a horse that has not yet been purchased as your own - this greatly complicates the choice and introduces subjectivity in its assessment. Feelings of a person who is already tired of choosing a horse, and treats each next horse as his own last chance, I know like no one else - the advice of an uninterested person received in time will always sober up and help to avoid mistakes. Do not be angry with your advisors - they only wish you well! :)

And now you are almost at the goal - the horse has been chosen, you have discussed it with everyone with whom you can, the decision is final, there is no doubt - you have to take it! This raises the question of how to bring the coveted horse to the stable that you have chosen. I will not dwell on the problems of transporting a horse from the friendly Baltic republics - this is a topic for a separate essay and such information is worth big money:). When exporting a horse from another region of Russia, there are two options: First - you hire your own horse transporter and hit the road, remembering that 1 km costs about $ 1 (this is the average cost of a kilometer with a horse, if the price is lower - most likely the driver counts kilometers in both directions ), and you assume all responsibility for the horse during transportation. The second option is to negotiate with the plant. It seems to me preferable, firstly, because in this case, the responsibility for the horse on the road will lie on him, and secondly, the horse carrier may be generally free - if the plant, for example, carries horses to Moscow for races. In addition to this, you pay money upon receipt of the horse - i.e. already at his stable. Naturally, in any case, it is necessary to conclude a purchase and sale agreement with the seller - there is a lot of materials on this topic on this site, so I will not dwell on this point in detail.

Choosing a horse is very difficult, but choosing one will run you into much more difficult maintenance problems - so use the time before buying correctly - ask yourself again and again, do you need it? If, after going through all these hardships, you still buy a horse, it will be a truly deliberate step, and you will be proud that you approached your choice so thoughtfully. I hope this information will help those who, like me, are looking for a horse, and I wish everyone ...

Enjoy the shopping!

The following horse breeds are widespread in Ukraine: thoroughbred horse, Ukrainian horse, Oryol and Russian trotters, Russian Vagoviz, and in the highlands - Hutsul breed. They are all universal. So, riding horses, if necessary, are used in harness, and trotters - under the saddle.
Basically, the owners keep horses of the harness and riding-harness types. they can be used for traveling, transporting goods, processing household plots, caring for animals in pastures. First of all, you need to find out the habits, especially harmful ones, which arise as a result of insufficient exercise and workload, rough and inept treatment of the animal, violation of the rules for keeping, growing and feeding. These habits include biting, chewing on the reins, biting one's limbs and sides, protruding the tongue, chomping with the lips, twisting the tail and head, stepping from limb to limb, supporting one hind hoof to another, standing on the toes of the hooves, digging the floor, scattering concentrated feed , "Bear" skating.
Horses of an evil disposition cause a lot of trouble - they do not allow themselves to be cleaned, forged, harnessed or saddled, they lie down harnessed, fight, bite, stand on end. Such horses should be especially affectionate, patiently treated, and when this does not help, they have to be slaughtered. Bite occurs predominantly in nervous horses kept in stalls without exercise. Distinguish between material and airy bite. In the first case, horses lean their upper teeth on wooden stands in a stall, swallowing air, which leads to colic, and in mares to abortion. Tying, hammering nails into wooden objects and tightening the throat strap (it is fixed at the back of the head) deprives horses of this bad habit. With an air bite, horses do not gnaw objects, but swallow air, stretching their neck and lips, and poorly assimilate feed. It is better to keep them separately so that other animals do not adopt the habit, and as often as possible to use them at work.
There was no clear connection between color and performance of horses. The color is not a breed characteristic, but superior colors are characteristic of each breed. Horses of factory breeds are of five, six or more colors with a uniform color. It should be remembered that gray horses show a specific reaction to buckwheat straw - small bubbles appear on the body. And on the white limbs, the biting midge appears more often, the light hoarding horn is weaker.
The color inherent in adult horses is formed in the process of their development and at the age of 7 months (the age of the first molt) changes to a permanent one.
When choosing or buying a horse, you need to pay attention to the state of its health, age, as well as to the line of closing of the dental arches - it should be horizontal, without slopes indicating prolonged and sufficiently strong lameness.
It is imperative to know the age of the horses, because only in this case you will be able to rationally organize their mating, use at work, weaning of young stock, riding, training, castration of stallions, and correctly assess the value of animals. If there are no registration documents, the age is determined by the condition of the horse: old animals are inactive, calm, with relaxed muscles and, as a rule, sagging back and sides, there is gray hair on the body, in the mane and tail. It is possible to more accurately determine the age of a horse by the condition of the teeth, despite the fact that up to 10-12 years, their growth is ahead of abrasion, and then vice versa. When examining the horse's mouth, one should stand to the left of its head, holding it with the left hand. Right hand through the toothless edge, insert it into the oral cavity, take the tongue with your fingers and take it to the side, towards you, and with your left hand separate the lower lip from the incisors and examine them. Hold the tongue firmly, but do not pull, because it is easy to undermine.
The mare has 36 teeth, the stallion has 40. The front 12 teeth (six on the upper and lower jaws) are incisors. Each pair of them has its own name: two central - hooks, the next two - middle, the last two - edges. The last 21 teeth are molars. Canine teeth grow between the margins and the first molars in stallions, one on each side of the jaw. Milk teeth are whiter and 2-3 times smaller than permanent ones. On the labial side of the permanent teeth, there are always one or two vertical grooves, which is not the case in the milk incisors.
A foal is born without teeth. Milk hooks appear on the 7-14th day, medium ones - on the 30th-40th day, edges - after 6-7 months. The cups of the milk incisors are erased at the age: on the hooks, starting from 10-12 months, on the middle ones - from 12 to 14, on the edges - from 15 to 24 months. Permanent hooks erupt at 2.5 years and fully grow up to 3 years, medium - respectively at 3.5 and up to 4 years, edges - at 4.5 and 5.5 years. The cups are erased on the permanent lower hooks at 6, on the middle ones - 7.7, on the edges - at 8 years old, and on the upper ones - at 9, 10 and 11 years, respectively. Only the bottom of the calyx remains, approximately 1–2 mm deep. At the age of 7-9 years, between the labial edge of the tooth and the bottom of the calyx, two brown specks appear - asterisks: on the toes - at seven, on the middle ones - at eight, and on the edges - at nine years old. Two stars at 13-14 years old are combined into one oval shape, and after 15 years - round. The star disappears with the age of the horse.
The trace of the calyx of the permanent incisors of the lower jaw on the toes is erased at 13 years old, on the middle ones at 14 years old, on the edges at 15 years old, and on the upper jaw at 16, 17, 18 years, respectively. After the indicated age, only the root star remains on the teeth, and their surface is smooth. With age, the shape of the rubbing surface of the permanent incisors changes: at 5-10 years old it is transverse-oval, at 11-15 - round, at 16-20 - triangular, at 21 and older - longitudinal-oval.
The condition of the teeth is influenced by the individual characteristics of animals, the type and quality of feed, the maintenance of horses, the physiological state (in mares, the change is delayed by 10-12 months).

Before buying a horse, it is worth considering a lot of characteristics inherent in this animal. We have already sorted out some of the issues related to the purchase of a horse and paperwork, in the same article we will take into account the following - the assessment of the animal and the nuances that you should rely on when choosing.

Your first and foremost assistant when buying any horse is an experienced veterinarian. At a minimum, you should find out if your potential pet has any problems and diseases that are invisible during external examination to the gaze of an amateur, chronic ailments or healed injuries that can worsen and make themselves felt in the future. The veterinarian will conduct a complete examination of the horse, give advice on keeping in the selected conditions and give you his opinion regarding the suitability of the animal for the intended use.

It will not be superfluous to attract familiar horsemen with whom you have been communicating for a long time and whom you trust. This can be the owner of an equestrian club, where you happened to study or practice, a breeder, an athlete or a good friend who already has experience in horse ownership. If there is no person who would help you out of friendship, do not be stingy to pay for the services of an expert. He will appreciate the character, behavior and working qualities of your future horse, will be able to give advice on further communication with her.

For example, very often, when buying a horse for a child, ignorant people opt for ponies, considering the latter to be almost specially bred horses for children. After reading the article on the history of the origin of horses and ponies, you will find out that this is absolutely not the case: most pony breeds were bred to work hard enough in adverse conditions and harsh climates, but not for the carefree riding of babies. In fact, many ponies are complex. strong character, uncomfortable shaking and stiffness.

Of course, first of all, you should find out in what condition the animal is at the time of purchase and in what state of its health. To do this, we repeat, when buying, you just need the presence of an experienced veterinarian.

The second no less important thing for you will be to assess the working qualities of the animal, depending on the further purposes of its use. Ask the seller in detail about the horse's habits and behavior, find out about his past daily routine and training, evaluate the behavior in the stall, when cleaning and saddling, handling in the hands, gaits on the line. Find out how your pet treats medical procedures, grooming, shoeing, transportation, etc., how it behaves with other animals.

Ask a regular trainer or a horse keeper to sit on the horse and let him walk under the saddle, after which be sure to sit down yourself - check whether you are comfortable with the animal, whether you understand each other, whether it responds adequately to your commands. Of course, you need to "try" a horse in those conditions and with those loads for which it is bought. If you need a partner for long walks in the fields, it makes no sense to test the controllability and obedience of the animal in an indoor fenced arena, and for the future potential show jumping, the elements of dressage or Western learned with a trainer are unlikely to be particularly valuable.

Before buying, it's a good idea to walk around the stable where the horse was located in order to assess the disposition and mood of the other pets, their appearance and conditions of detention (quality of feed, cleanliness of stalls, possible bad habits of the surrounding animals, behavior of service personnel, work of trainers). To a large extent, everything you see will apply to your four-legged friend so be vigilant. It is no secret that experienced sellers may try to embellish reality, and subsequently the horse, due to poor maintenance, suddenly shows health or behavior problems.