I present to your attention the first article and a whole series devoted to mountain preparation in the arsenal of the survivalist.
The first article is devoted to the equipment, as well as the descent technique. The launching devices "basket" and "eight" and some points of self-belay will be considered.
Because I'm self-taught, maybe I make some mistakes, which, I hope, will be pointed out to me in the comments. But do not forget about constructive and friendly communication, without stopping to a banal shit.
I apologize for the quality of the photo, there was practically no light, we shot it with a flash. Something had to be filmed at home.
Let's start with a list of equipment.
We need:
Suspended system.
I use the Petzl Corax, but the more budget Vento can be used.
Descent device. I use a Vento basket and a horned eight.
Approximately three carabiners per person.
Two pieces of rope 25m and 10m. I use static 10mm diameter
Gloves so as not to burn your hands.
The photo also includes knee pads and elbow pads.
The boots were never used. Instead, I climbed the Lowa Zephyr.
A set for two people, me and my wife.
All this, including a thermos with tea, was removed into the bag.
Now I'll tell you about each element in more detail.
Suspended system.
Petzl is still a brand with a worldwide reputation, which is why I bought it. I don't have too much experience, but overall I like it. Wide, comfortable waistband and leg loops. Large range and very easy adjustments. Many suspension points for additional equipment. In short, a great option.
Rope - domestic static 10mm diameter. In order to snap to the anchor point, you need to learn the figure eight knot. It is simple, yet very durable and practically does not weaken the rope. The order of knitting in the photo.
The knot looks like this.
Next, a carabiner is fastened into the loop. With the help of this carabiner, you can fasten on various hooks, embedded parts, ears, anchors, etc., but this is not very safe, because fasteners may be rusty and not very secure.
The most reliable fastening is for monolithic objects, reinforced concrete. supports, large channels and I-beams, then a sliding loop is made with the help of a carabiner, with which the fastening takes place.
The rope is hung, the hanging one is on. Then we fasten the descent device.
I have seen two types of carabiner insertion into the system. In the central ring or at the same time in the loops of the waist and leg loops. Petzl explicitly states that the carabiner should be clipped into the ring.
So far I have used a Vento basket and a horned eight. I'll start with a basket.
Its advantages:
- does not twist the rope.
- convenient to use.
- can be used as an automatically blocking insurance (but more on that another time)
The cable on this control system can only be used for transportation, it must not be loaded.
For use on a rope, you need to make a loop and thread it into the SS so that the free end of the rope passes through the jaws of the device.
Pulling the free end of the rope up, we take out the slack.
We put our hand with the free end behind our back, pulling the rope. Everything, you can hang out. The descent is done by slightly relaxing the hand with the rope.
The "figure eight" descender works in a similar way, but it twists the rope, which is not convenient for long descents.
There are two ways to attach a figure-eight rope.
The first is through a carbine.
This method creates less friction, resulting in a higher descent speed.
The second way is through the neck of the SU. More friction and lower speed.
Similarly, we take out the slack in the basket and put our hand with a stretched rope behind our back.
The peculiarity of the horned figure eight is that you can fix the rope on it and free your hands.
Some points of self-belay.
There is always some possibility that you will let go of the rope from your hand, and the SU will immediately erase the entire rope and you will fall. To avoid this there are different ways insurance and self-insurance.
I am using an "autoblock" node. It fits in the following way.
For this knot I use a standard 60cm guy.
We fasten the brace with a semi-grasping knot (noose) on the leg girth, we hang a carabiner next to it.
We wrap the guy 4-6 times around the rope.
Then we snap it onto the carabiner. Everything. The node is ready.
In the event of a breakdown, you will hang on this knot and will not fall. At the same time, the hand must be held between the SU and the autoblock, adjusting the descent speed.
Now to practice.
First. We get up on the "windowsill" from where we will go out, take out the slack in the rope and tighten it.
As a result, the fifth point is posted.
The rappelling is often called rappelling. Hans Dyulfer is a German climber who invented one of the first methods of descent, proposed and introduced into practice at the beginning of the 20th century.
Descent along a fixed rope using a belay device and a grappling knot.
If necessary, the following techniques are used to descend the rope.
Procedure:
Tie a grasping knot on the rope and attach it to the power ring of the system with a carabiner;
pick some rope through the grasping knot. The slack makes it easy to thread the rope into the belay device;
tuck the rope into the belay device (according to the manufacturer's recommendations);
take back the rope slack through the belay device and load the system, while the lanyard will cease to be loaded and it will be possible to snap it out of the station;
before descending, make sure that a knot is tied at the end of the rope (at least 1 meter from the end) or that it is fixed at the lower station;
check the correctness of the system, release the lanyard and start the descent;
it is necessary to descend the rope smoothly, without jumps;
ATTENTION!
Under load, the grasping knot should not rest against the fall arrest device; the distance between the grasping knot and the fall arrest device must be at least 10 cm.
During the descent, the legs must be kept shoulder-width apart, preferably at 90 ° to the slope, for a more stable position;
upper arm holds the grasping knot; lower arm controls the smoothness of the rope delivery;
when approaching the station, click into it a free self-belay;
loosen the rope: first, unlock the belay device (it heats up during descent), then remove the gripping knot;
give the command to the competitor at the top that the rope is free.
ATTENTION!
Avoid side-to-side movement while descending. Horizontal vibrations of a loaded rope along the relief are dangerous because it can fall on the sharp edges of the relief and fray.
Descent with UIAA knot with grapple knot safety
With absence trigger the descent is carried out on the UIAA node with a safety catch knot (which is located above the UIAA node at a distance so that it can be easily reached by hand).
Only clutch carabiners are used. Do not clench the grasping knot into a fist.
Multi-rope (multi-pitch) descent
During the descent of the bundle along the equipped route and when working with one rope - 40–50 m - the following techniques are used.
Procedure:
The use of a separate lanyard is recommended during the descent;
● the rope must be passed into the descent rings or the ring of the station;
● split the rope in half and, to avoid friction, pass it under the station;
● tie semi-grapevine knots at the ends of the rope;
● throw the rope down or, dividing it into two equal bays and hanging it on a loop, give out the required minimum when descending;
● the first participant descends a double rope on a descender with a safety catching knot;
● going down to the place of the next station, organizes a new station;
● gets on a self-belay, gives himself a rope through the descender, leaving a free loop of 2 m (the necessary slack for the second participant to snap in);
● secures the rope at the station (for example, with a figure-eight knot through a carabiner) and disconnects the descender.
● gives the command that the rope is free;
● the participant at the top organizes a descent on a double rope with a grappling knot;
● after snapping the grasping unit and the trigger device, it clicks out the self-belay, disassembles the station and goes down to the lower participant;
● going down to the station, stands on a self-belay, releases the ropes, unties the knots at the ends of the rope;
● both participants pull the rope and organize a new descent.
ATTENTION!
It is important to pay attention that the rope does not rub against the station lines and lanyards.
Rope pulling knot
When organizing a descent with two ropes and their subsequent pulling, especially if the terrain is strongly dissected and the knot may get stuck, a “simple” or “flat” knot is used. This knot is the best known knot to pass bends and rugged relief.
ATTENTION!
The free ends of the ropes after tying a knot "simple" or "flat" must be at least 25-30 cm! The use of a figure-of-eight knot in this configuration is dangerous because the figure-eight knot in this configuration is decoupled at significantly lower loads than a flat knot. 
Descending and pulling the rope:
- Click on the carabiner to spread the branches of both ropes during the descent. This method is also called a "comb";
- The pulling (blue) rope should be closer to the rock, otherwise, when pulling off, the ropes may get stuck (biting)
The standard developed for the rope access technique for descenders is called EN 341 “Personal protective equipment against falls from a height. Descent devices ". In addition, many of the devices in this section have a different standard - EN12841 Rope Positioning Devices. These devices can be used as components in positioning and holding systems.
For use as safety devices (partner insurance), devices regulated by the EN 15151 standard are used, which currently has no Russian counterpart.
As a rule, having come to one or another equipment center, we have before our eyes a very limited choice of equipment, both mountaineering and rock climbing, for promalp or speleology. This is because only half of the branded goods that we have read a lot about or are used to using in everyday life come to us from Europe. This review proposes to consider the most rare and little-known brands of mountaineering equipment both in Russia, Ukraine and other countries of the former CIS.
Kong Futura Hand - Engineering by Matteo Rivadossi (Italy)
New Futura Hand Rope Clamp Is a fresh word in size, weight and technical characteristics... The weight of this device is 125g. Permissible load for these clamps - 470 kg. Recommended for ropes from 8 mm to 12.7 mm inclusive (but the most amazing thing is that "dead" is 5.5 mm on the Beale dyneme! Fantastic!). The Futura Hand is perfect for both the classic movement on the railing in the all-around tour, and for those who like high-speed speleo ascents. In the kit you will find two interchangeable handles for different sizes hands.
P.S. The crossed-out 100Kg icon on this clip is the standard CE designation, which means that this product is not certified for use as an equipment for the salvage and rescue services!
The Futura Hand blocking of the new concept assumes the application of less physical effort when moving the zhumar on the rope. A special cam "cam clean" was installed with fundamentally new channels for dirt removal (speleo), equipped with an anti-rollover system - i.e. does not require top locking with a carabiner. The wedges of the teeth are cut at a sharper angle. Used with the Futura Foot (analogue of the Petzl pantina - foot clamp), it becomes an integral part of the Futura System, which uses an alternating stride technique in the ascent. The difference between the Kongo jumar and the buttonhole ASCENSIONa is that in Hand there is no distinction between left and right, that is, it does not care which hand you use with it on the rope.
Unicender - created by the Anglo-American company Morgan & Thompson
Unicender- a device for climbing a rope, designed and implemented by the Anglo-American company Morgan & Thompson exclusively for arborists and arborists, but has received its well-deserved approval and distribution also among cavers (similar in work to the descender), and kayoning specialists in the form of a self-discharge trolls. Climbing a vertical rope is carried out by an average person physical fitness exclusively with your own hands. No zhumarov, pulley blocks, pedals, etc.!
In Russia and Ukraine, this device is completely absent ... but it's a pity! There would undoubtedly have been a use for him in the middling!
LINEBOSS manufacturer - Get International (USA)
The LINEBOSS ™ is designed primarily to be used in the DdRT (Double Rope Technique) technique for arborists and arborists, but its versatility and combinational properties may be useful in other rope schools as well.
LINEBOSS easily works out ascending the rope (ascender), by pulling the latter, and descending (descender) down, after acting on the release handle, which unlocks the device. It can also be used as part of a work positioning system, or be tensioned as a line belay for supporting movement.
Due to the extremely small bend of the rope in the radii, there is practically no wear of the braid, which other types of descenders cannot boast of.
Rope diameter: 11mm - 13mm
Critical load: - 50 Kn (5000 kg)
Working load range: - 230 - 500 kg
Weight: 425 grams
CMC RESCUE MPD, developed by CMC Rescue Equipment, USA
It is a versatile device specially designed for a wide range of rescue operations, belaying and emergency descents in technogenic conditions.
Can work like:
● Device for belaying large loads (up to 280kg)
● High-performance roller with self-locking function in the chain hoist of various multiplicity.
● Braking device for lowering the victim with one or two accompanying persons. Has a switching system from a lowering system (lowering) to a lifting system (lifting).
● Can be used as an individual descender.
Other characteristics:
● SU is designed to work with rope 12.5 mm - 13.0 mm
● Weight - 1100g.
● 1983 NFPA certified
AB Descender by SAR (England)
AB Descender meets two standards EN12841-C Descender and EN341-C Descenders Rescue. These two standards are different. Under the terms of EN12841-C, the descender can use various types of ropes, in accordance with user SAR guidelines. EN341 is a standard for certain escape / escape systems and any system certified to this standard should only be used with the type of rope it has been certified with.
Over the past ten years, the EN12841 standard has been adapted to suit the requirements of the users.
Certain problems with other types of paratroopers, such as: slipping along the rope of the device when stopping, too much sensitivity of the control handle, at the slightest pinching of the handle, the anti-panic function is triggered, interfering with the descent, the inability to easily stretch the rope up for some ascent, as well as the complicated design of some similar products. Designers AB Descender tried to overcome all these problems, adding to this the simplicity of its design. V design A-B Descender has made some useful design changes from users of the old SCARAB. A small reel has been added as a rope safety, and the main change is a larger folded lever in the handle when smoother control and less hand tension are required when descending.
IMPORTANT (!): All parts of the device experience friction during descent, which creates a high internal temperature, which can damage the rope if there has been a fall or during a long, rapid descent. Any of the above technical parameters are correct - when the product is new and used in accordance with current standards.
The A-B Descender was tested with a registered body in a simulated rescue using 210 kg mass as required in standard 12841-C, clauses 4.4.5 and 4.4.9. It was also tested with 100 kg loaded on the descender and 100 kg.
Toucan by Simond (France)
Does not twist the rope - an important quality for descenders. In case of a fall, even with minimal friction against the wall, it ultimately sits tightly on the rope creating maximum friction, after which it practically stops the fall, but it is better not to check it yourself. It is very easy to insure with dynamic insurance through Toucan. Weighing 100 grams, it is slightly more than the Reverso, but slightly less than a regular washer.
A small lever on the descender itself does not give rise to the problem of pinching the rope with the device.
The lever itself allows you to gently release the rope, or to release the tension with top and bottom belay. Designed for single and double ropes with a diameter of 7.5 to 11 mm.
Solo Aid SB2 by Rock Exotica (USA)
A device designed for bottom belay, belay for solo ascents. Safe grasping of the rope when falling allows to make the difficult process of solo climbing relatively reliable.
weight - 182 grams
breaking load - 22.7 KN
dia. ropes - 10-11 mm
CAMP Wing Traveling Pulley roller block for fast descents on inclined ziplines
Working load: 6 kN
Breaking load: 15 kN
Max. diameter: rope-12 mm, rope-13 mm
Pulley inner diameter: 26mm
Weight: 336g Original brake lock
Unique block layout helps keep clothes and hair out of the work area
Wear-resistant bearings
High thermal conductivity stainless steel
Maximum speed: 20 m / s Mammut Smart
Self-locking belay device for single rope 8.9-10.5 mm. Auto-blocking with top and bottom belay (analogue of Click-Up, only cheaper). Weight 82 g.
Salewa nine (Austria-Italy)
A variety of friction descenders - Salewa nine (Nine)
Working ropes diameter - 9-11 mm
Kong DE JUMP manufacturer "KONG" Italy
Kong DE JUMP is a descender specially designed for canyoning. Equipped with a special mechanism for quick release of the device from the suspension system.
Weight: 328 gr.
Material: aluminum alloy / steel
Used rope diameter: 9 - 12 mm
Robot (KONG, Italy)
The trigger device is universal. The original development of Kong, which is a hybrid of the classic figure eight and a grid (retran) and combines the advantages of both descenders: it does not twist the rope and is lightweight. A wide variety of rope threading options.
Kong HYDROBOT (KONG, Italy)
A unique descender specially designed for canyoning. Can be used with one or two ropes. Allows you to effortlessly change the braking speed under load. Due to the special design, the risk of accidental loss of the device, twisting of the rope and wear of the carabiner is excluded. For emergency lifting, the Hydrobot can be used as a self-locking device.
Kong TRE (KONG, Italy)
This revolutionary descender belay device is as easy to use as a figure eight or a puck, however, unlike them, the TRE itself locks when jerking, allows you to work on both single and double ropes, it has become much easier to insert and release the rope from the device. TRE Perfect for belaying in rock climbing, canyoning, industrial mountaineering.
Kong ORTIS (KONG, Italy)
Launch controlled block. It is used with ropes and is intended for lowering a person from a height at a controlled speed (from 0.5 to 2 m / s).
Troll Pro ALLP Tech, manufacturer SAR (UK)
Weight: 585 grams
Breaking strength of the product: 20 KN
Working load: 270 kg
Slave / rope diameter: 10.5 mm - 12.7 mm
Can be used on semi-static and static ropes.
It has the ability to control the descent, both with a screw and a handle, or in a combined way. Allows you to adjust the trigger with one hand.
Eight is usually the first descent device that climbers master, it is simple as an ax and reliable as a crowbar. In addition, the figure eight can be used for belaying, and as a ring, in general, for which there is enough imagination. Let's talk about her.
Varieties
Now on the market there is a huge variety of eights of different functionality, some of these trigger devices do not look like "8" anymore.
All eights can be divided into two groups, with and without horns. The horned figure eight is convenient where you need to hover and free both hands, hornless ones are simply lighter and are considered more athletic.
Modern versions of this descent device also offer different ways of threading the rope into them for different descent speeds and for show-offs.
There is a kind of eights with a large rectangular hole, this is necessary to eliminate the twisting of the rope during the descent. It is because of the strong torsion that the eights were banned for use by cavers when descending.
There is a variety called "Nine". It has a more progressive locking method, but it is not clear how to use it safely during the descent. After all, for this you need to loosen the free end of the rope going to the hand. How?? Only if you pull yourself up with one hand on a rope that goes up. If you know how to safely block it, write in the comments. But besides new scheme blocking, this "nine" has classic horns, albeit short, but you can use them. I think it will work well for a promalp where long freezes are needed.
There is a figure eight from Petzl with a special pad to grip it with your hands in case of strong heat. This is strange and incomprehensible. I’ll explain that during the descent, the figure eight heats up so much that it can burn the hand .. But for some reason the manufacturer did not think about the rope, and if it melts, then at best you will hang on the insurance, and at worst, I think it’s clear .. Personally I control the heating during the descent, and if the figure eight for the hand is hot, then I slightly lower the pace.
There is also a figure eight called "Petal", which is an interesting variation. It is very compact and has one horn and cutouts at the top to lock the rope.
Application
If we talk about the descent, then there are several ways to tuck the rope into a figure eight.
The first way- through the neck of the figure eight, without snapping the rope into the carabiner. With this method, the friction of the rope is higher, and therefore the speed of descent is lower. It is also easier to hold the free end of the rope. The downside is that for such a threading of the rope, you need to snap off the figure eight from the carbine.
Second way- through the carabiner and the larger hole of the figure eight, with this method the highest descent speed and the least twist of the rope are achieved.
There is another way, but you should never use it. Look at the photo below. I repeat once again, do not use this method, I am talking about it only so that you know that it exists and that you cannot use it. This is life threatening, you can simply lose the rope and continue to fly almost free.
Other methods require non-standard configurations of the eight, and they are not particularly needed.
The best way to descend is the second, it is the fastest, there is no risk of losing a figure eight and twisting of the rope is minimal.
Horns of figure eight
Separately, it is worth mentioning the use of the horns of the figure eight. They come from two sides (such an eight is called "Invar") and from one. Needed to block the ropes for the purpose of hanging and freeing both hands. Many people simply wind the free end of the rope around the horns, but this is also not safe. That's right - after winding, additionally throw the free end over the chassis, look at the photo.
The double horns can be used for blocking when rappelling on a twin rope and for zigzag descents.
Zigzag descent is when two ropes, 1-2 meters apart from each other, are simultaneously passed through a figure eight with double horns. When descending, one rope is blocked by a horn, and the other is released a little, then the ropes are changed. This method of descent can be useful for a promalp.
Alternative ways to use the figure eight
In addition to using the figure eight for its intended purpose, it also has other possibilities. For example, an eight can be used instead of a ring. If carabiners are snapped into it from both sides, then, in some cases, it can replace the quickdraw. Paired with a zhumar, the figure eight can also be used for lifting. However, for lifting, it is better to replace it with some kind of grasping knot. It is the eight, due to the absence of moving and impact-sensitive parts on it, that it is best to attach to the rope instead of a load for throwing onto a branch or somewhere else. And of course, the figure eight is used to belay the partner, because when it falls off, the rope will be enough to simply hold.