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Descent devices in mountaineering. Descent devices

A post about self-locking belay and descender devices.


There was a post last week about the Trango descender, and I wanted to continue this topic with an overview of all self-locking descenders / belay devices in existence today.
Depending on how the manufacturer positions them on the market, they are called either descenders or belay devices. I took the descriptions on the original sites, so I apologize for the liberty of translation. Links to originals are present.
In the process of reading the article, a non-obsessive thought may arise that some of the slopes are similar to each other, I propose to leave this on the conscience of the manufacturers.
Strong doubts arose about the Mammut Smart account, whether to include it or not, because I didn’t work with it, I didn’t hold it in my hands, but only used the description and video on the official website, so I’m not sure that I understood exactly how it worked. If someone has something to add, please do not hesitate and write!

Petzl

Self-locking descender RIG.
Link: http://petzl.ru/promalp/catalog/288/1736.html


The RIG is designed for the professional and expert in rope-handling techniques. The multifunctional handle allows you to unblock the rope and control the descent speed by holding the free end of the rope with your hand, or to fix your position on the rope without additional locking knots. The automatic handle return system minimizes the risk of falling in the event of involuntary or erroneous actions on the part of the user. The special position of the handle for storage and carrying makes the device the most compact. A safety latch on the movable side plate helps prevent accidental release of the device and makes it easier to position the device on a rope and pass through intermediate belay points. The pivoting eccentric makes it easier to pick up the rope slack.
Rope diameter: working 10.5-11.5mm.
Weight: 380 g.

Self-locking descent device I "D.
Link: http://petzl.ru/promalp/catalog/288/484.html


Designed for use on a rope: a safety catch on the pivot plate will help prevent loss of the device. The multi-function handle allows the user to:
- unlock the device and start descending, controlling the speed with the hand holding the free end of the rope;
- move freely along horizontal and slightly inclined railings;
- fix your position at any point along the descent path.
The anti-panic mechanism is triggered as soon as the user presses the handle too hard: the rotary eccentric is automatically locked and stops the descent. A special stopper (anti-error) reduces the risk of accidents if the user feeds the rope incorrectly. The shape of the stopper is designed to improve the sliding of the rope during climbing. The pivoting eccentric allows you to simply pick up the slack in the rope.
Rope diameter: working 10-11.5mm.
Weight: 530 g.

Self-locking Gri-Gri fall arrest device.
Link: http://petzl.ru/sport/catalog/172/56.html


Self-locking fall arrest device for belaying the first or second in a bundle. The GRIGRI fall arrest device helps to stop the fall of the climber during a fall and keep him on the rope. Also, the GRIGRI fall arrest device is perfect for descents on a single rope. Automatic braking system: in case of a fall, the eccentric inside the belay device is triggered and clamps the rope. Braking and control of the descent speed is carried out by holding the free end of the rope in your hand. Unlocking the fall arrest device using the handle.
Rope diameter: working 9.7-11mm.
Weight: 225 g.

Self-locking Gri-Gri fall arrest device 2.
Link: http://petzl.ru/sport/catalog/172/1797.html


The GRIGRI 2 auto-locking fall arrest device has been designed to make belaying easier. GRIGRI 2 works equally well for leader belay and top belay. The device can be used with all single dynamic ropes from 8.9 to 11 mm (ideal for ropes from 9.4 to 10.3 mm). The compact and ultra-lightweight GRIGRI 2 device will serve you faithfully for many years in your climbing activities around the world. The new design of the GRIGRI 2 provides better control during descent.
Rope diameter: working 8.9-11mm.
Weight: 185 g.

Self-locking descender Stop.
Link: http://www.petzl.ru/sport/catalog/172/61.html


One of the most popular caving triggers in the world. Full control of the descent speed. It can be installed on a rope without snapping off the harness thanks to the spring clip. Automatic brake system triggered when the handle is released. Control over the speed of descent is carried out by holding the free end of the rope by hand. It is possible to ascend along the rope without changing the position of the device, when using a loop under the leg and a zhumar. Replaceable cam and spool.

Weight: 326 g.

Edelrid

Self-locking Eddy fall arrest device.
Link: http://www.edelrid.de/adventureparks/produkte/hardware/eddy.html


Reliable one-piece body. Bending the rope in one plane: the device does not "twist" the rope on the descent. Automatic stop of Eddy in case of loss of control over the descent, i.e. when the handle is released. Good heat dissipation due to the greater massiveness of the clutch and housing. Can be used for extended descents. Anti-panic function: if the user puts too much pressure on the handle, the cam will jam the rope. There are two options for the trigger handle: "pushing" and "pushing" the handle. Additional latch that secures Eddy to the rope once it is detached from the harness. Possibility of manually unlocking the loaded device (when used for belaying). When lifting loads, it allows the system to be reversible.
Rope diameter: working 9-11mm.
Weight: 360 g.

Trango

Chinch Self-locking Belay Device
Link: http://www.trango.com/belay_rappel/Cinch


One of the lightest and most compact devices in its class. For belaying when moving with elements of rock climbing technique. Handing out the rope using both hands; stopping the fall by holding the free end of the rope. Bending the rope in one plane: the device does not "twist" the rope on the descent. When lifting loads, it allows the system to be reversible. Can be used as a trigger.
US Patent # 6,843,346. International Patents Pending.
Rope diameter: working 9.4-11mm.
Weight: 182 g.

Singin rock

Self-locking descender Double Stop.
Link: http://www.singingrock.com/descender-double-stop?cat=2142


Descender with two locking positions and anti-panic system: automatically locks during descent if you lose control of the rope and let go of your hands, and also prevents falling when you press the handle reflexively. To refuel, you do not need to snap the device out of the carabiner.
It can be used both in industrial mountaineering and in rescue work.
Rope diameter: working 9-11mm.
Weight: 340 g.


Link: http://www.singingrock.com/indy?cat=2142


The new descender with dual self-locking anti-panic system is especially suitable for work at heights and self-evacuation in an emergency.


Weight 469 gr.

KONG S.p.A.

Self-Locking Indy Descent
Link: http://www.kong.it/doc405.htm



Rope diameter: rescue 11mm;
Rope diameter: working 10-13mm.
Weight 470 gr.

Self-locking descent device Indy Evo.
Link: http://www.kong.it/doc/KONG_INDY_EVO.pdf


Anti-panic descender with double self-locking system is well suited for high-altitude work and self-evacuation in an emergency. Blocked when you release (in case of illness or weakness), and when you press the handle you can slow down your speed to a complete stop (the more you press, the more you brake).
Rope diameter: rescue 11mm;
Rope diameter: working 10-13mm.
Weight 450 gr.

FIXEhardwear

Self-locking belay device Sum
Link: http://www.fixehardware.com/sum-self-braking-belay-device.htm


Safe for all your ropes, ergonomic, dynamic, lightweight and easy to use. Sum is a new generation of belay / descenders designed to anchor the first and second on sport climbing routes or wall ascents. You can eject the rope quickly and easily without even touching the lever.
- symmetry makes it comfortable to use under the left hand
- assumes dynamic braking, which gives good absorption for the first climber
- the rope is easy to place
- comes with a "fall arrest" position, which ensures that the carabiner is always in the correct working position.
Rope diameter: 9.1-10.5mm;
Weight 260 gr.

Rock empire

Self-locking descender Descender R.E.
Link: http://www.rockempire.ru/product/descender-re-340/

Self-locking device for rappelling.
Diameter: 8 - 11 mm
Weight: 325g

Mammut

Self-locking Smart Fall arrest device.
Link: http://www.mammut.ch/de/productDetail/221000670_v_0044/Smart.html


The Smart fall arrest device has been designed specifically for the needs of the growing group of indoor climbers and sport climbers. It dynamically slows down the climber in the event of a fall and blocks even with a slight effort of the belayer. In situations of fear of the belayer, the principle of operation corresponds to the reflex movements of the human body. Suitable for all HMS carabiners and simple ropes.
Rope diameter: for Smart 8.9-10.5mm.
for Smart Alpine 7.5-9.5mm.
Weight 125 gr.

Alvo titanium

Self-locking belay device Ya-Ya.
Link: no.


Automatic descent and belay device. The device is designed for upper and lower semi-automatic belay using a rope. Made of titanium and duralumin. Installation on a rope without unfastening from the harness. Automatic braking system (anti-panic). The ability to control the speed of descent.

Weight 180 gr.

Orion-Alp


Link: http://www.orion-alp.ru/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=15&category_id=13&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Descent device "Stopper-landing" is intended for long-term controlled descents on a single rope. For long rappels with controlled descent speed. It can be installed on a rope without snapping off the harness thanks to the spring clip. The automatic braking system is activated when the handle is released. It is possible to ascend along the rope without changing the position of the device, when using a loop under the leg and a zhumar. Used on single ropes.
Weight: 370 g.

Self-locking fall arrest device Promalp.
Link: http://www.orion-alp.ru/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=19&category_id=15&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

Automatic self-locking belay and descent device. It is possible to climb the rope without changing the position of the device. When climbing up, the force when pulling the rope is significantly lower than in similar devices. Used for single rope.
Weight: 700 g.

Vento

Self-locking descent device Stopper-Desanter.
Link: http://vento.ru/sport/catalog/40/230/


Self-locking device for moving down vertically fixed ropes with a diameter. Ideal for long descents, providing a quick stop when needed. Suitable for use in speleological expeditions. Due to the bending of the rope in only one plane, the device practically does not "twist" the rope. The automatic braking system is activated when the handle is released. The control over the descent speed is carried out by the tension of the free end of the rope. The device can be easily installed or removed from the rope without disconnecting from the harness. It is possible to lift up without changing the position of the device, using a zhumar and stirrup.
Rope diameter: working 9-12mm.
Weight: 340 g.

Self-locking descent device Anti-Panic.
Link: http://vento.ru/sport/catalog/40/229/


Self-locking descender for single rope. Ideal for descents of untrained people, as it eliminates the possibility of a fall in case of panic. The dual automatic braking system operates when the handle is fully released or when you try to grab the device. Control over the descent speed is carried out by pressing the handle. Due to bending in only one plane, the device practically does not "twist" the rope. The spring clip allows you to easily attach the descender to the rope without having to unplug it from the carabiner. Maximum slope length - 100 m
Rope diameter: working 9-13mm.
Weight: 385 g.

Krok

Self-locking descent device Desanter Grisha.
Link: http://krok.biz/spuskovie-ustroystva/su-grisha


Semi-automatic (self-stopping) device (autoblocker) for descending a single rope. It is used in industrial mountaineering for work on inclined or vertical railings, when it is necessary to frequently fix (hang) on ​​them. In combination with another clamp, the descender can be used to ascend a rope in an unsupported space. During descent, the device automatically stops when the handle is released. The descent speed is adjusted both by the tension of the free end of the rope and by the angle of rotation of the eccentric cam handle.
Rope diameter: working 9-12mm.
Weight: 370 g.

Self-locking descent device Stopper-Desanter.
Link: http://krok.biz/spuskovie-ustroystva/su-stopor-desanter-stalnoy-new-2


Semi-automatic (self-stopping) device (autoblocker) for descending a single rope. It is used in industrial climbing for work on inclined or vertical railings, if it is necessary to frequently fix (hang) on ​​them. In combination with another clamp, the descender can be used to ascend a rope in an unsupported space. The upper restraining roller is located in the upper left corner, which reduces the friction of the rope when using the "Stop-Assault" for lifting. During descent, the device automatically stops when the handle is released. The descent speed is adjusted both by the tension of the free end of the rope and by the angle of rotation of the eccentric cam handle. The free end of the rope can only be ejected through the groove of the brake roller.
Rope diameter: working 9-12mm.
Weight: 370 g.

Self-locking descent device Desanter-Antipanic.
Link: http://krok.biz/spuskovie-ustroystva/su-desanter-stalnoy-antipanik


Autoblocker, or semi-automatic self-stopping device for descent on a single rope. During descent, the device automatically stops when the handle is released. It is equipped with an "anti-panic" system, which makes it possible to avoid an uncontrolled fall of the descendant with his panic pressure on the handle of the descender. Designed for rope descents by untrained users. For example, when evacuating from high-rise buildings in case of fire, or newcomers to vertical amusement parks, when teaching in tourism and speleology, mountaineering and rock climbing. It is used in industrial climbing for work on inclined or vertical railings, if it is necessary to frequently fix (hang) on ​​them. In combination with another clamp, the descender can be used to ascend a rope in an unsupported space. The descent speed is adjusted both by the tension of the free end of the rope and by the angle of rotation of the eccentric cam handle.
Rope diameter: working 9-12mm.
Weight: 525 g.

Self-locking belay and descent device Snail.
http://krok.biz/spuskovie-ustroystva/ulitka


Versatile multifunctional fall arrest device. When performing high-altitude work by the method of industrial mountaineering, it can be used as:
semi-automatic self-locking device for descending a single rope;
the second clamp for climbing the rope by "self-stretching";
self-belay device when moving along vertical or inclined rope rails;
a belay device for moving with a "bottom" belay;
safety device for "receiving" the bottom;
as a clamp for tensioning railings and ferries.
Rope diameter: working 8-12mm.
Weight: 340 g.

Self-locking descent device Promalp Fedya.
Link.

For centuries, people have climbed the peaks and crossed the passes for military, religious, commercial and scientific purposes. Starting from the 18th century, mountaineering in Europe began to develop as a sport, methods of belaying and descent with a rope began to be developed. Most in simple ways braking rope for belay were: through a rock ledge with a loop of a rope and a carbine, in the snow - through the waist, an ice ax. But such methods were not suitable for steep and steep slopes. And for descent on steep and difficult sections, a different descent method was used: the rope was wrapped around the body or tucked into a carabiner, thereby increasing its friction, thanks to which it was possible to descend in a controlled manner.

In 1912, the German climber Hans Dyulfer first applied the method of descending a rope, sitting on it without special descenders. This method made it possible to descend much faster than climbing with belay through the terrain, but at the same time it caused discomfort and required constant monitoring. Therefore, in the USSR, they necessarily insured themselves with a grasping knot (Prusik, Marshara, etc.). Now a rappelling is called descent along a fixed rope with the help of belay and descent devices.

Depending on how the rope is positioned on the human body, braking will also be appropriate:

  • a - descent in a sports gymnastic way (on slopes of medium steepness);
  • b - descent on steep slopes with safety catching knot;
  • c - descent with braking, in the Dyulfer's way (through the thigh) with a safety net with a grasping knot.

To assemble such a system, it is advisable to use carabiners of the same shape, the latches of the carabiners should look in different directions.

Pros:

  • collected from improvised means;
  • you can work on single and double ropes;
  • does not twist the rope;
  • works with ropes of different diameters;
  • easily enough can be locked and unlocked under
    load by one person.

Minuses:

  • such a structure, especially assembled with a hammer or ice ax, requires constant monitoring;
  • gathering and disassembling for a long time;
  • works only in one direction - downhill.

UIAA Node (UIAA)

Shown is one way to knot a UIAA knot:

The UIAA node is the simplest reliable remedy for descent and belay.

Pros:

  • to use it, you need a minimum of equipment (a safety system, a carabiner, preferably HMS, since it was designed for this knot, and a rope);
  • works on ropes of any diameter;
  • quickly and easily assembled, disassembled;
  • Easily locks and unlocks under load when you need to stop the descent. To block the UIAA, the Munter-mule knot is used - it allows you to untie it without jerks under load;
  • works in both directions - if necessary, switch from descent to ascent
    no additional manipulations are required: the knot can be easily turned over and
    moves to the top belay position.

Minuses:

  • the rope and carabiner wear out quickly. When descending on a wet rope, especially where there is a lot of sand, the carabiner is “cut through” a few millimeters in a couple of rappels;
  • twists the rope;
  • A large pear-shaped (HMS) carabiner with a coupling is required for optimal operation of the assembly. On carbines of a different shape, the knot works worse;
  • when lowering, the carabiner heats up, which can lead to melting of the rope.

Fall arrest devices

Most accidents in the mountains do not occur at the time of the assault, but on the descent. Climbers lost their comrades in simple, trivial situations. This was the impetus for the creation of trigger devices.

With the introduction of synthetic climbing ropes, devices were invented that combine the methods and functions of belay and descender devices, called "belay devices" (belay and descenders).

The belay device is a structure fixed with connecting elements (carabiners) on the belay system or terrain (at the station), through which the belay rope passes, going from the belayer to the leader. As mentioned above, these devices are also used for rappelling. In this regard, they are often called "trigger devices", "descent devices". It must be remembered that descenders designed only for descending a rope (eg "figure eight") cannot be used for belaying.

Fall arrest devices can be divided into two large groups:

1. Devices with manual rope interlock (EN 15151-2 "mechanical").

In such devices, the rope is blocked by the friction of the rope against the device and the muscular strength of the arm.

2. Devices with an auxiliary rope interlock (EN 15151-1 "semi-automatic").

In such devices, the primary blocking of the rope run is carried out with the help of mechanical or structural parts of the device, and then - the muscular strength of the arm.

As a rule, to work with a modern belay device (with the exception of semi-automatic ones), you will need an HMS carabiner, that is, a pear-shaped one. In this case, the rod of the carabiner must be thick enough (about 10-12 mm) so that the bend radius of the rope is large enough, and the carabiner must be made of aluminum alloy or steel. Titanium carabiners are absolutely unsuitable for belaying due to extremely low thermal conductivity - a carabiner heated up from friction can damage the rope.

Many designs were invented, some of which were successful, but forgotten, and some became classic. Next, we will talk about the most famous of them.

Shtikht washer

The Sticht washer has two slots for working with one or two ropes. Works on ropes with a diameter of 8 to 12 mm. When working with ropes of small diameters, it holds well even on an icy rope.

This device leads its pedigree from a link in an ordinary marine chain (as a variant of such a brake - a carbine brake). Fritz Sticht suggested using a simple metal plate with slots for braking.

Photo from the group Vkontakte "Mountaineer's Library "

The rope is threaded into the slot with a loop, into which a carabiner is snapped in (or two - for strong braking). Braking occurs due to the friction of the rope against the carabiner and the edges of the slot, and also depends on the angle of coverage of the Sticht Washer by the rope. In the strong braking mode (with two carabiners) the Shtikht washer surpasses the braking rate of modern "glasses" with wedge-shaped slots, and becomes indispensable when working on thin ropes.

Cons - the rope is not fixed. You can lose the washer when unpinning the rope if you don’t insure it separately. And one more thing: no different options threading the rope, i.e. there is no way to increase or decrease friction without additional carabiners or other techniques. Also, after the load, the device "sticks" to the rope, which makes it difficult to dispense it, therefore, over time, a spring was attached to it. Later, when a safety cable was added to the design, the need for a spring disappeared.

"Basket", "glass", Reverso

Modern versions of belay devices, working on the Shtikht washer principle, have many names in common use: "basket", "glass", "reverse", "basket".

Reverso (Verso-variant without additional rings) is one of the most popular belay devices of the company, its name has already become a household name for such devices.

Devices without moving parts

Now fall arrest devices have begun to appear that do not have mechanical moving elements, but block the rope during loading due to design features.

  • a — we give out the rope;
  • b — choose a rope;
  • v — the device locks itself, helping to stop the stall. In this case, it is imperative to load the free end of the rope coming out of the descender. Under no circumstances should the loose end of the rope be released !!!
  • G — descent with the ability to control the descent speed.

pros

  • The device locks itself in case of failure, which allows you to insure the person.
  • A very simple design.
  • Less weight compared to "semi-automatic" devices.

Minuses

  • It works with one rope, which does not allow its use in mountaineering.

Mammut Smart 2.0 works in a similar way, the pros and cons are the same.

The Mammut Smart Alpine is designed for two ropes and can be used in auto-block mode. This device is suitable for use in both rock climbing and mountaineering.

pros

  • It is possible to use in the "autoblock" mode.
  • There are no mechanical parts, making it easy to operate.
  • Not subject to panic reflexes when used.

"Eight"

Devices of the "eight" type were designed for descent. Thanks to design features such as horns or slots in the device itself, you can thread the rope into the device in different ways, which allows you to change the coefficient of friction.

Minuses

  • Not suitable for insurance, because in deep stall, effective holding friction is insufficient.
  • It is not possible to control two ropes separately, because the ropes pass together.
  • The rope is twisted strongly due to the presence of kinks in several planes.

Classic descender of the "lattice" type with removable crossbars. The design makes it easy to remove and install them on the rope, adjusting the friction force depending on changing conditions (weight of the rope, user, etc.). Compact and lightweight device.

  • The detachable rungs make it easy to mount the device on the rope.
  • Adjusts to the required load.
  • The device is protected from heat by friction to protect the rope.
  • Does not twist the rope when descending.

Semi-automatic descenders and belay devices with self-locking function

Descent devices Designed to provide controlled smooth descents and belay belts to provide both bottom and top belay, they also increase belay safety by helping to stop falls.

One of the first semi-automatic descenders was the Petzl Stop. It traces its history back to a descent device invented for cavers by Bruno Dressler, produced and later modified by Fernand Petzel (founder of Petzl), and subsequently used in mountaineering.

The device was a steel plate, bent in the middle, and two rollers fixed immovably inside. The rope threaded into the device bent in the shape of an S, and the friction created in the device made it possible to control the descent speed, as well as to stop by simply pulling the free end of the rope coming out of the device with one hand. It made it possible to descend along a rope (fixed at the bottom or at an intermediate point) without twisting it, which was especially important for cavers. Was not afraid of dirt.

The modern version of this device already has two independent aluminum plates. With a slot at the top roller and a special plastic clip in the hole for attaching the carabiner to the belay system, which allows you to open the device and quickly thread / remove the rope. Also, two stationary steel rollers can be replaced with new ones as they wear out. This significantly increases the resource of the device, because cavers almost always work with a dirty and wet rope, which very quickly wipes down devices, especially aluminum ones.

today it is one of the most popular devices among speleologists. Its main structural elements are the same as that of it, but it has a movable asymmetrical lower roller, merged with the handle. Due to this, if you release the handle during descent, the roller (cam) will bend and press the rope against the upper roller, thereby stopping the descent.

pros:

  • Doesn't twist the rope.
  • Replaceable rollers, which increases the resource of the device.
  • Descent control.
  • The rope is tucked in without pulling the device off the fall arrest system.
  • When the handle is released, it stops the descent, but it is possible to disable this mode using a carbine.

  • It is possible to climb the rope using a rope clamp or grappling knot.

Minuses

  • For sports mountaineering today it is heavy and bulky.
  • Poisons the rope (therefore, if you need to hang during the descent and release, the free end must be blocked with a knot).

.

Also one of the first semi-automatic belay devices created by Petzl in 1992. It was very compact and had a movable cam, which, under load (in case of a break or a jerk), gripped the rope, increasing the degree of blocking until the rope slipped completely.

There was a handle to unlock the device. By pressing on it, throwing the emerging rope and pressing it against a special cheek (which created additional friction), one could smoothly begin the descent. On the descent, speed control was carried out by the hand holding the free end of the rope.

Despite the automatic blocking, it was impossible to let go of the free end of the rope, i.e. a situation could arise where the cam did not lock, and for help it was necessary to pull the free end of the rope. For example, this could be due to the high friction of the rope in the guys / about the relief / due to smooth sliding along an inclined surface.

A similar design and technique for working with the device remained on subsequent models of the device.

Important: the device requires familiarization with the instructions and practice!

pros

  • When diving, they are blocked, which allows almost no effort to stop the fall (a lighter belayer can comfortably belay a heavy leader).
  • With this device and a rope clamp (zhumar) or a grasping knot, it is very effective to ascend a short distance along the rope in a support-free space.

Minuses

  • It is not possible to work with two ropes.
  • The device is structurally susceptible to panic reflexes. They appear when, during the descent, the belayer presses the lever too hard - the descent speed increases sharply, and the person reflexively presses the lever on himself even more, completely removing the blocking device. Structurally, this was eliminated only on the latest GRIGRI + model. The panic reflex can be eliminated by correct use devices: before starting the descent, throw the rope over the cheek, increasing the friction, and press on the handle not with the whole palm, but with several fingers.

  • Also, when belaying, in order to quickly release the rope and not break the rule of constant control, the free end of the rope must be held in such a way that the free end is in the palm of your hand, and thumbs right hand press the locking cam.

The modern GRIGRI 2 is a compact and ultra-light semi-automatic device designed for comfortable working on thinner ropes, with single ropes ranging from 8.9 to 11 mm (ideal for ropes from 9.4 to 10.3 mm). Only 170 g, 25% less and 20% lighter than the previous version of GRIGRI.

The pros and cons are the same as the previous model.

GRIGRI + is the latest version in the family of one of the most popular belay devices, which has a switchover between upper and lower belay and an anti-panic function, which made it possible to eliminate the disadvantages of previous models.

.

Kashevnik's devices

Due to the lack of special devices on sale, enthusiasts in the USSR grinded trigger devices handicraftly. One of these craftsmen was Boris Lazarevich Kashevnik, the author of a number of devices for rappelling and belaying, for example, "Bugs-3".

a- laying of one rope for belay and descent; b- laying of two ropes for belay and descent; v- the maximum distance from the carbine to the plate body (the braking force is less); G- the minimum distance from the carbine to the plate body (the braking force is greater); d- fixing the rope; e- using the device as a shock absorber.

The presence of round and oval holes allows you to change the distance from the carabiner to the plate and thereby select the optimal braking force depending on specific conditions.

Certification and marking of descenders and belay devices

In the USSR, a lot of equipment was created handicraft. Many really successful devices were invented, but they often led to injuries, because they were made from improvised materials that did not undergo proper processing, and tests were often carried out by the same enthusiasts "in the field."

For modern equipment, norms and standards have been developed, which spell out technical requirements for the minimum breaking load, materials used, test methods for launching devices, marking, and type of devices.

In Russia, descenders and belay devices are not included in the "Unified List of Products Subject to Mandatory Certification", there is no technical regulation (standard for "SPORT" devices), so everyone uses the European standards EN 15151-1 and EN 15151-2.

Standards EN 15151-1 and EN 15151-2

EN 15151-2 standard: devices with manual rope interlock

  • Type 1: for descent without friction adjustment function.
  • Type 2: for belay and descent without friction adjustment function.
  • Type 3: for descent with friction adjustment function.
  • Type 4: for belay and descent with friction adjustment function.

EN 15151-1 standard: with auxiliary rope interlock

  • Type 5: for rappelling with an auxiliary rope blocking ("semi-automatic"), without a panic blocking element ("anti-panic").
  • Type 6: for belaying and rappelling with an auxiliary rope blocking ("semi-automatic"), without a panic blocking element ("anti-panic"). For example, .
  • Type 7: for a descent with a blocking element in case of panic ("anti-panic").
  • Type 8: for belay and descent with a blocking element in case of panic ("anti-panic"). For example, .

Industrial devices used in work at heights or in rescue operations have their own standards. The standards developed for the rope access technique for descenders are called EN 341 “Personal protective equipment against falls from a height. Launching devices ”and EN12841“ Rope positioners ”. These devices can be used as components in positioning and holding systems.

Marking

  1. Manufacturer.
  2. Device name.
  3. Rope direction:
  1. The working end of the rope.
  2. Free end of the rope.
  1. Relevant standard.
  2. UIAA (International Union of Mountaineering Associations) quality label.
  3. Acceptable rope types and diameters.
  4. Serial number: the batch number of the product and the year of manufacture (the picture shows the decoding of the Petzl company number, for each brand in the product passport it is indicated how the serial number is decoded).

  1. It is necessary to read the instructions before use.
  2. The organization in charge of production control.

The sequence in which the information is indicated is different for each brand.

Injuries from falls from a height in Europe, the United States and China are in second place after road traffic accidents. Knowledge of the basics of fall protection rules, the ability to use appropriate protective equipment allows in many cases to avoid falls or reduce the likelihood of injury.

(PPE) - equipment, outfit, equipment designed to prevent a fall from a height of an employee or to safely stop his fall.

The main consumers of such PPE are construction companies. But other enterprises also need these funds to carry out any high-rise work:

  • when inspecting wells, cisterns and other containers;
  • for work by the method of industrial mountaineering, cleaning companies;
  • during emergency rescue operations;
  • when servicing power lines, ventilation pipes and boiler rooms, television and radio towers, towers, bridges, etc.

According to the Occupational Safety Regulations when working at height (NPAOP 0.00-1.15-07), fall protection equipment includes:

  • safety belts;
  • helmets;
  • safety ropes;
  • safety climbing devices;
  • catchers with a vertical rope;
  • protective fences, safety signs, etc .;
  • climbing equipment used in conjunction with the aforementioned protective equipment.

We will carry out short review these remedies.

1. Safety belts

Not the most important part of the high-altitude climber's equipment - you can tie yourself with a piece of rope, but it makes life very easy. And in the event of a freeze during a breakdown for a period of more than 15 minutes - and preserving it, not allowing it to occur by suffocation.

The mounting belt (Fig. 1) and the upper system (Fig. 2) can only be used to secure a person who moves along the structures with his legs and, if he falls, will not hang for a long time until the moment of his death from asphyxiation. In addition, with a deep fall with a belt, there is a high probability of a spinal fracture.

TORNADO, Ukraine PETZL, France SINGING ROCK, Czech Republic
TRAVEL EXTREME, Ukraine VENTO, Russia PETZL, France

Only a gazebo can be used as a safety system (Fig. 3), preferably complete with an upper system, so as not to break the spine during a breakdown.

FIRST ASCENT, Ukraine PETZL, France TRAVEL EXTREME, Ukraine VENTO, Russia

Or a universal complete system (Fig. 4).

It is a completely justified element of protection of "brains" from contact with metal structures when moving or falling on them, not to mention wrenches falling suddenly from above and other "God's punishments".

It is better to use helmets reinforced with fiberglass, but an ordinary construction "soap dish" is also suitable for "bezrybe".

3. Safety ropes (ropes)

To work at height, two ropes are required. One is for descent or ascent, the other is a belay. Or the second working and, concurrently, safety. If one or the other is cut, killed or bitten, this is your ticket to the world of the living.

When working on a bend through a sharp peak, always use a rope protector and preferably a steel protector - soft ones often cut along with the rope.

There are ropes dynamic and static, various diameters (from 8 to 12 mm).

Dynamic rope- elongation more than 7% with a suspended load of 80 kg.

It is better not to use it in industrial mountaineering. It is difficult to work on it - like on an elastic band. An exception is when the specifics of the work require dynamic insurance.

Static rope(elongation 3-5%) is used most often.

Super static rope(up to 2% elongation), made using kevlar and steel, dangerous under any dynamic loads that often occur when working at height. Its super strength does not contribute to safety. The money that needs to be spent on the purchase of such a rope can be spent on the rest of the set of equipment.

It makes no sense to use expensive ropes, which, according to the manufacturer's idea, have a long service life due to the sheath that is strong to abrasion. On installation - yes, but on painting or sealing buildings, the rope still deteriorates from paint or sealant.

Remember:

  • The declared tensile strength is not a measure by which the reliability of the rope can be judged. The ultimate load at which the rope breaks refers only to the initial state, not affected by adverse factors (wear, moisture, paint pollution, etc.);
  • the presence of knots reduces the strength of the rope to 40% of the initial! I repeat, not 40%, but up to 40%!
  • rope aging - a gradual decrease in strength, regardless of whether the rope is in use or is still unopened in a store or warehouse. With a period of more than five years from the date of production, the rope should not be used at all for high-altitude work;
  • with normal intensity of use and careful attitude to it, any rope should be thrown away at most after four years, even if it looks well preserved.

More about ropes and their tests: P. Nedkov "ABC of one-rope technique".

4. Carbines

The carbine is important and multifunctional tool industrial climber serving as a connecting link. Not only the success of high-altitude work directly depends on it, but also the life of the specialists in the field of industrial mountaineering.

Carabiners are a bracket that closes with a latch lock, which, in turn, is secured from opening by a safety clutch.

The most common type of coupling is threaded. Locking is done with a twist sleeve. It is possible, however, to forget to screw on the sleeve.

Therefore, an automatic rotary clutch is sometimes preferable. The advantage of such carbines is in protection against forgetfulness or inexperience of the user.

A mandatory rule is that all carabiners that are used for belaying and securing must be with a clutch. In addition, the carabiner itself must be latched so that the rope, when moving upward, does not unscrew the threaded sleeve or turn the automatic sleeve into the position of possible opening. By the way - the size of the opening of the lock, an equally important parameter of carbines.

Carabiners without a coupling are used only as pull-off or auxiliary carabiners.

For belay, carabiners with permissible load not less than 2200 kg (22 kN) in the longitudinal direction with the coupling closed. This is sufficient for belaying, and more powerful carabiners are required where permissible working loads can reach large values, for example, when lifting loads.

The transverse breaking loads for carbines are usually much less than the longitudinal ones, but not less than 7 kN. Therefore, it is very dangerous when the carabiner gets into a device, for example, a trigger or belay, on a kink or across.

To avoid this, some manufacturers deliberately make a hole for a carabiner with a diameter of 12-14 mm, which is less than the diameter of most carabiner couplings of almost all brands: Black Diamond (USA); Climbing Technology (Italy); CAMP (Italy); Kong (Italy); Petzl (France); Mammut (Switzerland); Salewa (Germany); Simond (France); Singing Rock (Czech Republic); Vertical (Russia); Manaraga (Russia); Vento (Russia); Ring (Russia); Krok (Ukraine).

But it must be remembered that foreign counterparts are several times more expensive than domestic PPE, or even dozens of times. This applies not only to carbines, but also to the rest of the equipment for high-altitude work.

Carabiners are made from steel or aluminum alloys. Dural carbines are much lighter in weight, but their strength is also much lower. Therefore, when performing high-altitude work by the method of industrial mountaineering, mainly steel carabiners are used, since they are much less susceptible to wear and withstand heavy loads.

In appearance, there is a whole mass of varieties of carbines - trapezoidal, oval, triangular, pear-shaped, delta-shaped. The trapezoid holds the maximum load, and the oval and pear are more comfortable.

Oval. Due to the symmetry along the longitudinal axis, it has the least chance of standing in the device or at the point of snapping across the load or at a break.

Trapezoidal. These carabiners are the most tear-resistant. But they cannot always be used with a certain type of belay device. Not advisable to use with lanyard and tape.

KROK, Ukraine RING, Russia VENTO, Russia PETZL, France

Triangular. They came to us from history.

Pear or "HMS". The carbine with the largest latch opening.

VENTO, Russia SINGING ROCK, Czech Republic PETZL, France

Mounting carabiners. They have the maximum simplicity of opening the safety lock, therefore, they are convenient for working in canvas gloves.

KROK, Ukraine VENTO, Russia PETZL, France

Rapids. Snap hooks. Locking occurs by means of a threaded sleeve. They are used for the organization of stationary safety links and for auxiliary purposes (for example, fastening structures).

D-Rings and Delta. They are used in cases where you need to use a carabiner with a sling or tape. For example, in systems. Working load - lateral.

KONG, Italy MAILLON RAPIDE, France

Carabiners for pipes and beams. Safety carabiners for organizing movement along a pipe, beam or large diameter cable.

5. Descent devices (SU)

Are divided into manual and automatic.

V handheld devices the coefficient of friction (i.e., the descent speed and the braking force) depends on how the rope is tucked into the SS and with what effort the person pulls the rope below the descender.

Eight Invar two-horned Pirana
Lattice Basket Spider Crab

Automatic descenders have a mechanism that allows you to change the coefficient of friction (that is, the descent speed and braking force), acting on the device itself. Simply put, to start moving, you pull or press on the handle and adjust the descent speed. However, in this case, the control of the rope below the device is not canceled, since if it is lost, an avalanche-like increase in the descent speed may begin, and the panic effect will not allow you to release the control handle and stop. For this purpose, anti-panic control systems are being developed, which, in the event of panic pressure on the control handle, stop the fall.

Stopper-Desunter Cinch Grigri Grisha
I’D Antipanic Anti-panic trooper

The most successful, in my opinion, are ID PETZL and Desanter with anti-panic KROK.

6. Clamps

In general, a clamp is technical means, which moves freely along the rope, but when loaded, automatically wedges on it. Alas, as a rule, with a load in one direction. Attaches to a lanyard (up to 60 cm long), which in turn is attached to your system.

Clips are bending, jamming and mixed(over-bending-jamming) types.

Clamp body - open or closed.

Open Closed

Bending over type - practically not used.

Jamming- these are zhumars and their varieties. The needle cam is pressed against the rope by a spring.

Bending-jamming type are clamps that use an articulated lever instead of a cam. Or the lever is the clamp body and the movable cam.

From two clamps and stirrups consists of a rope ascent kit. If an automatic device is used as a trigger device, then it itself can act as one of the clamps.

But the use of clamps for self-belay is a topic for another conversation. There are many opinions, but all agree on the main thing: when using clamps for self-belay, it is necessary to minimize the jerk factor. In other words, do not allow the clamp to be below the point where the insured is located. Since the vast majority of clamps "remove" the sheath of modern ropes with a load of just over 400 kgf. The rest of it simply bites or burns it when falling already with a factor of 1.

One of the few devices allowed for use as a means of self-belay is the three-jaw Drop and its foreign counterpart - the Back-up clamp, as well as the ASAP PETZL clamp.

7. Hinges

Rope, tape and cable.

Necessary for organizing rope anchorage points and additional self-belay points, as well as for auxiliary purposes. You can make loops from a piece of rope or a full-fledged sling (at least 22 kN at break).

It's even easier - just buy ready-made hinges. Perhaps the most commonly used lengths are 60 cm and 120 cm.

8. Seat

A seat is a convenience item and nothing more, it should not be a safety item in any way.

KROK, Ukraine VENTO, Russia PETZL, France

The bulk of the used seats can be divided into two conventional types - short and long seats.

The long seat has the slings fixed far enough on the board not to bump into the sides.

9. Set for lifting loads

The simplest one is carbine with block(block roller) and preferably with a swivel to prevent twisting of the rope. This kit is sufficient for lifting light loads.

If it is necessary to fix the load being lifted, then a jumar or cam clamp can be added to this set, and a fixing block-roller, which the Americans call "houler", and we - a clamp with a block-roller, can be used.

But remember that, like zhumars, all rollers with needle-type clamps "remove" the sheath of modern ropes with a load of just over 400 kgf.

The only exception is, perhaps, only "Block-stop" manufactured by KROK, Ukraine. The original design does not damage the rope at forces up to 900 kg, and after increasing the load, it begins to pickle it.

You need to understand that the effort you put into lifting a load through a block or houler is very dependent on the efficiency of the block. Therefore, to ensure the minimum efficiency, it is necessary to use high-quality blocks with bearings. The roller diameter also has a significant impact on efficiency. The larger the roller diameter in the block, the higher the efficiency.

It is assembled from two or more blocks and has a great variety of varieties. For promalp, the simplest are usually used, consisting of two single, double, triple blocks.

It is worth stopping at this so as not to delve into the technology of work.

Do not forget that any chain is as strong as its weakest link !!!

With this article, Master Gumbs, I begin a series of materials about climbing glands.

It is not enough to climb a mountain or a building. From there you also need to get off. It is often much more convenient to use a descender than to try to retrace your tracks, slipping and balancing. And in industrial mountaineering, in most cases, it is the descent method that gets to the workplace. It is not always convenient to descend at the knots. And hardware offers many more options for use.

So - "eight" .
One of the most common trigger devices, tracing its ancestry to the legendary Shtikht washer. Naturally, it has a bunch of options. The principle of operation is based on increasing friction. So, the classic figure eight increases the effort on the rope by 4-20 times. For example, if you hold the rope with your hands in front of an eight with a force of 25 kg, then the force behind the eight will be 200 kg, with a hand grip force of 50 kg - 300 kg.
Due to the large number of kinks, a common disadvantage of all figure-eight is that they twist the rope. This can be somewhat mitigated by not allowing the rope to touch the ground.

Two-horned, horned
Classical and specialized ("Pirana" from "Pecel")

Horned eight (invar, washer)


Locked eight. In an unloaded state, it is slightly shifted towards the working arm, but if there were someone in the harness, it would become straight.
To descend, you need to take the free end (which goes down) in your hand, and, slightly pulling it, start throwing off the turns from the horns. As you feel that you have begun to crawl down - then everything is going as it should.
For a hundred kg of load, it is better to leave one turn on the horns. If, however, a person weighs 60 kilos, then you can safely dump everything. Naturally, not forgetting about holding the end.


And correctly blocked eight)
But so few people do.

As a rule, this is a metal product that repeats the figure "eight" in shape. Two rings are inextricably linked to each other, one is at least one and a half times smaller than the other. On the one hand, there are two horn-shaped protrusions, designed to block, by winding with a rope, up to 5 ogons (turns) are performed. You can try more, but it won't fit))). For additional blocking, the free end can be passed with a figure eight and a taut piece of rope.
It is used in mountaineering, promalpe and show-off organization. It is used for descent, and in mountaineering / rock climbing, also for belaying
For mountaineering, they are most often made of aluminum; in the industrial, steel is more often used.
In the first case - to reduce the wearable weight, in the second - for durability. After 50-60 descents on a dirty rope, the duralumin "figure eight" is developed by about a third, becoming completely unusable.
Steel, on the other hand, lives for two or three seasons, and for the Moldovan-Central Asian brigades - up to ten


Rope threading options. Left - a variant for lightweights. Right - for good people, of which there should be many.
I think that the relationship between the refueling method and the weight of the descent body is noticeable. For ensigns, I suggest:
The rope passing through the carabiner and figure eight has fewer kinks and, accordingly, creates less friction. Less friction - faster speed descent. It's simple.


With this option, the rope goes from the other side. In this case, no special changes occur. A matter of habit, nothing more. Personally, the right one is more comfortable for me.


There is also such a refueling option. Also, it doesn't change anything.

Despite the fact that the origin of the name can be seen from the design itself, I once heard a version that the figure eight received its name due to the fact that with additional blocking, the turns on the horns cross.

Classic figure eight (hornless)

It is used in mountaineering and rock climbing to organize descent. Not intended for hovering, because there is nothing to block the rope with. Unless one more carabiner clip, and throw fires through it. well, or to wind ingenious knots.
Factory made from aluminum alloys.


Left - position for an uncontrolled descent :)
On the right is the working position. The lower end, like all eights, should be controlled by the hand when descending.

Specialized eights.

There are a huge number of options developed for the most diverse specialization in the world. Unfortunately, I have at hand only the Pecele Pirana without a corresponding carbine, therefore, a detailed story will not work.

To be continued

Many devices are used to descend on a fixed rope in industrial mountaineering, but only a small part in this section of the catalog meets the necessary regulations. Historically, industrial climbers have used rope descent devices designed for sport mountaineering and caving applications. If you do not have a maintenance engineer above you, you may use any descender devices at your own risk. If you or your organization is required to comply with labor protection regulations, then you will have to look at the letters printed on the device and the passport or certificate attached to it.

The standard developed for the rope access technique for descenders is called EN 341 “Personal protective equipment against falls from a height. Descent devices ". In addition, many of the devices in this section have a different standard - EN12841 Rope Positioning Devices. These devices can be used as components in positioning and holding systems.

For use as safety devices (partner insurance), devices regulated by the EN 15151 standard are used, which currently has no Russian counterpart.

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