The emergence of the figure eight is a problem that any cyclist has faced. Moreover, eights on wheels will appear regularly, and as often as you actively use your bike.

Small eights, as a rule, do not create serious problems when driving, and you can safely ride for quite a long time without adjustment. Large deviations make cycling unsafe and should be corrected. Adjusting the wheel is a simple procedure, and you can do it on your own. How to fix a figure eight on a bicycle wheel and what tool you need for this will be discussed in this article.

The reasons for the appearance of the eight

Wheel deformation is a natural and inevitable result of using a bicycle. When cycling, the wheels are subjected to varying loads in the vertical plane. Even when the cyclist sits on the saddle, the wheels are immediately loaded. Add to this the unevenness of the surface, bumps, pits, if you prefer driving on a dirt road - this will also negatively affect the condition of the wheels.

Beginning cyclists are not yet able to properly distribute weight on the bike, this will also increase the load on the wheels. Cornering at speed, hard braking, all this contributes to the emergence of eights on the bike. The more often the bike is used, the faster it becomes necessary to adjust its wheels. Even if you ride very carefully, this problem cannot be avoided.

Riding style isn't the only factor in how long your wheels last. The quality, material and manufacturing technology of the wheel rim can significantly reduce the likelihood of various defects. Inexpensive models, on the other hand, may have such defects upon purchase, and require repair much earlier.

The tool needed to fix the figure eight

• It is imperative to have a spoke wrench, with the help of which the figure eight is eliminated by changing the tension of the wheel spokes
• A marker or crayon that can be used to mark the location of the figure eight on the wheel rim
• It will greatly simplify the procedure for correcting the figure eight, and in general, a rather useful tool for the cyclist - a plastic tire for removing tires from the wheel

How to straighten a wheel on a bicycle

Attention! Before proceeding with the correction of wheel defects, it is necessary to determine what type and in what place this defect is located.

To do this, use a chalk or marker. On an inverted bike, spin the wheel, and slowly bring the crayon to it, thus getting in the place where the figure eight is. The chalk will leave serifs, along which the knitting needles are determined, the tension of which we will change. If you can't keep the chalk on the weight, you can use additional devices. For example, on the front wheel fork, you can use adhesive tape to glue ear sticks and do the same operation as with chalk.

After determining the place where the figure eight appears, you can begin to correct it:

• We start working with the spoke located in the center of the marked area. Depending on which side the figure eight manifests itself in, we take the knitting needle located on the opposite side from it. We tighten it with a spoke wrench at a distance of less than one turn.
  Weaken the two adjacent knitting needles on the side with which the figure eight was marked. The distance by which they need to be loosened should be less than the distance of pulling up the first spoke, for example, 2 times.
• We continue to do the same actions with the rest of the knitting needles as with the previous ones, gradually decreasing the distance of pulling up and loosening with the spoke wrench. Thus, it turns out that the central part of the figure eight, which is its focus, undergoes the greatest correction.
  Spin the wheel again, check the result. If it gets worse, return the spoke tension to starting position, and we perform the same actions, only the tension and loosening are made weaker than the first time.
• Gradually, over several cycles of tightening-weakening, the figure eight will appear less and less significantly. To achieve the ideal spoke tension, you will have to go through these steps more than once, however, as mentioned at the beginning of the article, small eights will not lead to tangible problems while driving, so we recommend that people who do not suffer from perfectionism do not get carried away with this activity.

Eliminating a wheel defect known as an egg

The egg defect appears due to strong point overloads, usually caused by a failed landing. A wheel with such a defect loses its circular shape, taking on an elliptical shape that looks like an egg, hence its name.

The process of removing an egg on a wheel begins by identifying the affected area. The method of determining is similar to the process of determining the figure of eight. The difference is that the chalk must be brought up to the wheel rim from the side where the tire is. In this case, of course, the tire must be removed. The tool used here is the same as for aligning a figure eight on a bicycle wheel.

The egg defect is eliminated according to the same principle as the figure eight, with the only difference that when correcting the egg, we will only tighten the knitting needles.

We start, as in the case of correcting the figure eight, with the central knitting needles in the identified area of ​​the egg, here we tighten more, gradually reducing the distance by which we turn the spoke key, as we approach the edges of the egg area.

Often, two defects can be present at the same time, therefore, having removed the egg, do not forget to eliminate the figure eight.

What to check after correcting wheel defects

Important! After adjusting the defective spot, it is also worth checking the other spokes on the wheel. Loose spokes can break, and overtightened spokes will stick out of the rim and puncture the tube.

Loose knitting needles must be tightened, overtightened loosened. After that, you need to re-check the wheel for defects. If you still have overtightened knitting needles, the result suits you, but you are tired of adjusting, you can grind these knitting needles with a file.

When riding a bicycle, a bicycle wheel takes on various loads, and regardless of whether you drive carefully or not, deformations of the rim appear over time on the wheel - the wheel geometry is disturbed. Much depends, of course, on the quality of the rim, on a poor-quality rim, the figure eight can form after the first rides on the bike, so when choosing, you should pay special attention to the quality of the rim and its assembly.

If you want to eliminate a defect in the rim - figure eight, and have no experience in this matter, then you need to know that this is not a very simple operation, since it requires a lot of patience and time.

Before starting to fix the figure eight on a bicycle, if there is no experience, I would recommend practicing on an old wheel. And so, in principle, there is nothing complicated in this, you need to follow the instructions correctly.

To fix a figure eight on a bicycle wheel, we need the following tools:

• spoke key;
• marker or piece of chalk;

You can also have a machine (more convenient) for the wheel. But if it is not there, then it is enough just to turn the bike upside down.

Steps to fix the figure eight

First of all, we need to find deformation points (figure eight) on the wheel on the rim, for this we take a marker or a piece of chalk, spin the wheel on an inverted bicycle and slowly bring the marker closer to the rim, the place where the figure eight will touch the marker and leave a trace on the rim, this is there will be a place where the figure eight is.

To eliminate the figure eight of the rim, a coordinated tightening and loosening of the spokes from the right sides is required, since if this is done incorrectly, new deformations may appear on the rim, we will consider further.

Consider a couple of options for eliminating the eight wheel on a bicycle, in various places on the rim.

The first option is how to remove the eight on the wheel if there is a slight deformation of the rim that is caught between two adjacent spokes. In this situation, we should tighten one spoke, for example, by 1/3 of a turn, and also loosen the adjacent spoke by the same 1/3 of a turn of the spoke key.

The second option can be if the figure eight is opposite any spoke. In this case, we need to tighten this knitting needle, for example, by 1/4 of a turn, while it is necessary to loosen the adjacent knitting needles by 1/8 of a turn.

We will also consider the option, how to straighten a figure eight on a wheel if the wheel figure eight has affected several adjacent spokes. With such a deformation, it is necessary to tighten or loosen those knitting needles that are closer to the center of the figure eight than those that are at the edges.

Correcting the figure eight on the wheel according to the video instructions

After each step taken, it is necessary to spin the wheel and look at the wheel, if the wheel became even, then everything was done correctly, if the figure eight increased, then it is necessary to bring everything to its original position and figure out what was done wrong in a new way. If the figure eight has become smaller, then you can continue to tighten and loosen the knitting needles in the same spirit, you are doing everything right.

I wish you success and fewer breakdowns.

One of the important components of a bicycle is the spoke wheel, which is installed on almost all models of this two-wheeled mode of transport. But if during the ride you saw how it encircles the "eight", then you should not be upset. Every cyclist faces this problem.

How to straighten the figure eight on a bicycle wheel in such a situation? You can fix this problem yourself without spending a lot of money. Wherein slight curvature will not present serious problems when driving... Only a significant defect will make the trip dangerous and it must be eliminated immediately so as not to be injured and not to carry out a more difficult one in the future.

Repair of the "eight" wheel of a bicycle is a common problem that requires surgical intervention... The fact is that the front and in the upright position experience all kinds of stress, even when a person just sits down on the saddle. And driving on a track with potholes and holes exacerbates this impact.

A person without experience cannot competently distribute body weight, cannot turn correctly, slow down smoothly and not jump. All these actions lead to the appearance of defects due to which the question arises: "how to remove the figure eight on a bicycle wheel?"

Important! Whatever the reason, when this defect appears, it must be urgently eliminated!

Tools for repair

Eliminating the figure eight on the wheel will require the use of the following tools:

How to identify curvature?

Before you get down to work and start fixing the G8, you need to determine the type of malfunction and its location. Algorithm for performing the work:

Defect elimination

So we came up in answer to the question: "how to fix the" eight "on a bicycle wheel?" But before proceeding with the restoration work, please note that there are several ways in which the "eight" is corrected on a bike.

Power

To align the figure eight in this manner, remove the wheel from the frame.

Good to know! There is no need to remove the tire and camera.

Take the wheel from two edges so that the side with the defect is facing you. Now we put the knee on the most convex part and push hard from ourselves. This work is carried out "on weight".

You can also do all of the above with the wheel when it is on the floor. To do this, put it with the defective side up and press on the central part of the curvature, in parallel with this, pulling the sides of the wheel towards you. In this situation, it is best to use the help of another person to firmly secure the rim to the floor.

After the curvature has been corrected, the wheel is placed on the frame and the fault is re-troubleshooting by rotating the wheel. This method of eliminating the defect is not very effective, but it will help on the road., when the "eight" on the bike was formed suddenly when hitting a large obstacle.

Spoke adjustment

First, check the total spoke tension.... Quite often the figure eight on a bicycle wheel appears due to the fact that they are loose: the spokes, if you slide your fingers over them, “walk” like the strings of a guitar. Then just tighten them around the entire diameter of the wheel one turn. If everything is fine with the tension, you will need to find the defective area with a chalk and start correcting the bulge.

You need to start straightening from the center spoke, which is located in the mark area. It turns in the opposite direction to the bulge. As a result of such actions, the spokes located on the sides of it are weakened.

Seven spokes

1. The central one is tightened by 1/2 turn.
2. The side needles from it are weakened by 1/4 of a turn.
3. Tighten the next needles 1/8 of a turn.
4. The outer needles are loosened by 1/8 of a turn.

Please note that only painstaking and gradual work in several stages will help to repair the G8 on a bicycle and restore it for a comfortable and comfortable ride.

Workshop cost

If you decide to go to a workshop, where a specialist will carry out the work to eliminate the defect for you, you need to know how much it costs to remove the figure eight on a bicycle wheel. Average, the price of such work is 400-600 rubles depending on the degree of curvature.

At the same time, the service does not always immediately know how much it costs to straighten the figure eight on a bicycle wheel, in contrast to situations when they can immediately tell you what to do, when. And all because because different situations differ in the complexity of the work. The final price will be known only at the end of the problem diagnosis.

Video

The video will tell you how to remove the figure eight on a bicycle wheel.

Of all the constituent elements of a bicycle, the most conservative is the spoke wheel. This type of wheel fits most bikes and is simple in design: a center hub, rim and spokes that connect the rim to the pivot. During the operation of the bicycle, the wheel is subject to static, dynamic and, as a result of which, changes in its shape can often occur.

Deformation of the "eight" type - what is it

Bicycle wheel curvature is associated with a misalignment of the rim configuration. In other words, the wheel is no longer round. A common variant is the so-called figure eight, when there is a deviation of part (or several parts) of the rim from the plane of rotation. When rotating, these areas describe trajectories in the form of eights around the central axis of rotation. When cycling, this defect is expressed in wobbling or wobbling on the move.

Riding with eights is possible, but it is unlikely to be a pleasure. In addition, deformed wheels are less resistant to stress, which will lead to further distortion and complete unsuitability of the rim. Can I fix a figure eight on a bicycle wheel myself? Yes, and it's not difficult at all. Read about how this is done later in the article.

Determination of curvature on wheels

So, there is a suspicion of the occurrence of wheel deformation, and it remains to determine exactly where it was formed. We turn the bike upside down and fix it clearly.

The first method of identification is visual, which allows you to find the location of large and medium defects. The wheels must be spun strongly, since at low speeds the eights, even the coarsest ones, show poorly. The rear wheel can generally be pedaled.
Curved sections move away from the plane of rotation to the side. At maximum deflection, the wheels must be quickly grasped in this place. It is not easy to do this at high speeds, and the hand can slip off, so it is better to resort to the next method.

The second method - contact, consists in marking the damaged area. As an indicator, you can take a marker, or rather a regular crayon. Spin the wheel and slowly bring the chalk to the rim. The first thing he does is strike a figure eight along the edge of the bulge. After the "top" is determined, the wheel must be spinned even more and continue to bring the chalk closer. This defines the entire area of ​​curvature. As soon as the chalk "runs" over the entire rim, the test can be considered complete. The focus of the figure eight will clearly stand out as a bold line against the background of a pale stripe along the entire circumference.

This is how the curvature of the rim is recorded.

Elimination of defects in a bicycle wheel

When the area of ​​curvature of the wheel is found, it's time to start straightening it. Every owner of a two-wheeled vehicle can do it with their own hands, especially since such problems can arise with enviable regularity. There are two ways to eliminate the figure eight on your own:

1. Power straightening, or "knee" as cyclists say.
2. A method of tightening and loosening the wheel spokes.

Power straightening

To remove the bend in this way, you will need to remove the wheel from the frame. In this case, you do not need to remove the tire with the camera. Turn the bulge towards you and grab the rim and tire on both sides. With medium deformations, the optimal grip of the wheel is position "10" and "2", that is, 60 degrees to both sides of the eight. We put the knee to the most convex area and press hard from ourselves.

What position of the wheel will best allow the rim to align? If there is enough strength in the leg, then you can press on weight. An alternative is to place the wheel vertically with the defective area up. This is where the help of a partner is needed. He must firmly press the wheel to the floor. After straightening, the wheel is put on the frame and checked again by rotating it.

This method cannot be called effective for several reasons:

1. It is impossible to bend small bends.
2. The rim may bend to the other side.
3. Inconvenient.
4. Low accuracy.
5. Not every rim can be so easily subjected to simple force.

This method works relatively well somewhere on the road, when the figure eight was formed suddenly due to a swoop on a large obstacle and it must be urgently straightened in order to reach the destination.

Wheel spoke adjustment

We turn to the second option for eliminating the curvature of the rim. The regulation of the spokes consists in their alternate loosening and tightening. To work with them, we need a special tool -. This unpretentious device is a round with square holes on the side for different sizes of knitting needles. You can buy a key without any problems at any bike shop.

Attention! The spoke tension should only be changed with a spoke wrench, and never with pliers or adjustable wrenches!

It will take patience to align a figure eight on a bicycle wheel, especially for first-timers. The tires must be completely removed.

Check the tension of all spokes first. Often times, the rim is bent due to their overall weakening. It is easy to check this: when the spokes are clearly dangling and "obeying" the fingers like strings on a guitar, then they need to be tightened by about 1 turn over the entire wheel. If such a problem is not observed, then you do not need to touch anything: this way you can only aggravate the eight.

We mark the defective area and proceed to the “central” spoke - the one located at the bulge. The spoke is turned in the opposite direction to the bulge. The spokes on the sides of it are loosened. With a figure eight for three needles, the straightening scheme is as follows:

• Tightening the central key by a quarter of a turn.
• Weakening of the outer needles by an eighth of a turn: the weakening force is half the tension in the center.

Eliminating the little eight

With an eight for 7 spokes, wheel repair is done as follows:

• The center is pulled half a turn.
• The two spokes (second and third) on the sides are loosened by ¼ turn of the key.
• 1/8 tightens the fourth and fifth knitting needles.
• The sixth and seventh (extreme) needles are loosened by 1/8 of a turn.

Straightening the Big Eight

The alternation of pulling and stretching is carried out in such a way that the outer needles on the figure eight are loosened. To check the result, the wheel is hung on the bike and tested for residual curvature. If the figure eight is bent in the opposite direction, you should remove all tension and increase the tightening torque on the loose knitting needles and repeat the procedure again, but with less tightening and loosening forces.

Despite the fact that you have to tinker a lot, you can achieve the ideal result - straightening the wheel to an even circle. And if for the first time the work may take too long, then with the subsequent occurrence of the eight, the repair will go much faster. Now, when a defect appears on the wheel, you can not put the bike aside, but quickly adjust the spokes yourself and resume the ride.

Wheel bending is an unpleasant thing

If your wheel is bent and you don't know how to fix it, you are in the right place. I have already come across this problem and will tell you simply - repair is possible - everything is quite simple. Moreover, I will say that the problem you are faced with will most likely arise at an enviable frequency if you love your bike and ride it several times a week. Therefore, it is worth learning this once, so that in the future you can remove the breakdown yourself every time it occurs.

How to tell if your wheel is okay. Simply place the bike upside down on the saddle and on the handlebars with the wheels up. Spin the problematic wheel, as you think, (spin it in the sense of rotating it around its axis) and check it first "by eye". If everything is in order with the wheel, then it will rotate around the axis absolutely evenly. If there is a figure eight, then it should be visible to the naked eye, or more often something like the beating of a wheel in a certain place. It is necessary to look at the wheel in profile and in face, since the bending of the wheel can occur in different directions.

Types of bends that are possible in principle:

How defects can form and why

There is a widespread belief that the wheel can change its shape if you do not ride carefully, when driving over bumps or during unsuccessful jumps. This is all true. That is, all this, of course, affects the rapid wear and tear. But that's not the only reason a wheel can break. When the cyclist sits on the bike, the wheels are already giving in to the load in the vertical direction. Further, when braking at speeds, the wheels can deform, forming eights. When maneuvering (cornering) in any direction and hard braking. In general, what is sloppy driving I think you can not explain, you yourself understand everything perfectly. So caring for your bike can put off the problem, but over time you will come back to it anyway. Even if you ride very carefully on a good road, such is the specificity of a bicycle.

Of course, everything still depends to a large extent on the wheel rim itself, on its physical characteristics. Therefore, when buying a bicycle, you need to pay the seller's attention to such things, wondering how long the wheels can last, how they react to the deformations described above. So on cheap bicycles, the rims are correspondingly less strong. And various bends (egg and eights) of the wheels can form much earlier than on their more expensive and high-quality counterparts.

In general, how the problem can arise, I think you already understood. So let's get straight to how to solve the problem and align your wheel.

What tools we may need to eliminate defects

So, to fix your wheel you may need:

1. crayon or something that can draw on the rim of the wheel (water marker)
2. universal plastic assemblies for dismantling bicycle tires.

We need the spoke key. I must say right away that you won't have to tighten up much. You will gradually tighten the knitting needles and check the results right there.

General algorithm for eliminating problems with a deformed wheel

The general algorithm is as follows - we determine in which specific place the figure eight begins and where it ends (we select the lesion focus). Next step - find the center spoke in the eight and working with it. If our figure eight falls to the left side, we select the spoke on the opposite side and pull it up to a distance of less than one turn of the spoke key. Then we take two adjacent knitting needles - these will be knitting needles already on the opposite side of the previous knitting needles - weaken them by the number of revolutions a little less (for example, 2 times less) than we tightened the previous knitting needle. And so on until full straightening. That is, the next two knitting needles (they will be placed already on the opposite side) we are already tightening even weaker than the very first knitting needle. As you move away from the central spoke (lesion focus), the number of revolutions, respectively, will also decrease gradually.

If the figure eight is small for three knitting needles.

So, again, how do you fix a figure eight on a bike? To fix the wheel, we select a section where there is an eight, and along the length of this entire section, we loosen and tighten the spokes going one after the other. We loosen the spokes on one side of the wheel, and tighten them on the other. When the required operations have been completed with all the spokes, we rotate the wheel again and see the correct movement of the wheel around the axis. If it becomes worse, return the knitting needles to their previous place and make the tightening-weakening less. Thus one way leading to the figure eight will gradually level out. In order to perfectly align the figure eight, you will have to patiently and painstakingly perform all the above actions slowly (i.e. we twist a little).

Eight more - to be treated in the same way as a small one.

The wheel is flattened by an egg, the straightening algorithm is slightly different. Just pull up the right side.

An egg-on-wheel defect occurs most often due to unsuccessful landings... It flattens strictly vertically. Quite often, an egg in combination with an eight is found on the wheel. So having corrected one, do not forget to correct the other. Unlike the figure eight, an egg-type defect is treated by pulling the knitting needles on both sides. We also identify the lesion and gradually, as shown in the picture above, we need to straighten the egg by pulling the knitting needles. It will be said below, but it is necessary to ensure that all the needles are not overtightened or, on the contrary, too loose.

How to straighten a wheel in practice and how to determine exactly where the figure eight of a bicycle wheel goes

How to determine exactly where the eight passes. Masters who have gotten their hands on in this matter can fix the problem without improvised means (crayons and other things). You will have to edit the wheel first using a crayon. We spin (rotate) the wheel and gradually bring the chalk to the rim of the wheel rotating in the axle. In those places where there is an eight, the chalk will touch the rim and scribble serifs on it. So you define an eight for yourself.

One more great option I saw how to straighten a figure eight on a bicycle wheel in one video. We take ear sticks... On both sides of the wheel we have front fork stays. We attach ear sticks to these feathers on scotch tape from both sides and, just like with a crayon, rotating the wheel, gradually bring the ear sticks to the wheel rim and the places where they begin to clearly touch the rim - mark with chalk. Quite a convenient option, since it can be quite problematic to hold the chalk on the weight. If your wheel is flattened like an egg, that is, it has lost its perfectly round shape, we do everything the same as for the figure eight, only we bring the chalk from the outside of the rim - where the tire with the camera should be.

As you can see from the above, eliminating the figure eight on a bicycle is not a very difficult process, and what is the best part is that it is accessible to everyone. The only thing I want to add is that when you have done all the work on aligning the figure eight on the bike, be sure to check all the other spokes. What shouldn't be? The needles should not be loose or overtightened. Freely dangling spokes can break, so carefully tighten them and repeat the wheel adjustment again. If the spokes are too tight, they can pierce the pin or wheel rim. Craftsmen advise if you have tuned the wheel and everything suits you, but some spokes stick out from the wheel rim, you can file down so as not to pierce the camera.

As a result, I would like to say that it is better to learn how to do all this yourself once - than to go to the workshop every time. Personally, I remember the workshops as would-be masters who do not have time to serve everyone, so they do everything in haste. And you are the owner of the bike and you can do everything unhurriedly, unhurriedly, literally and accurately. So go ahead and buy spoke wrenches and fix your bike wheels!

See more about fix the figure eight on the bike in the video below, so that everything finally fits in the head with a clear picture.

The structural part of a bicycle wheel, which, according to its technical characteristics, is the rod connecting the hub and the rim, is called a spoke. It is the spoke that is designed to facilitate the design of the wheel, while not reducing its strength.

The spokes can be installed and tightened with your own hands - for this it is absolutely not necessary to possess any specific knowledge, which excludes contacting the bicycle service centers. For absolute beginners in this business, it is enough just to get acquainted with brief information about what types of spokes can be installed on a bicycle and how to change / tighten them correctly.

Table of contents:

Types of spokes for bicycles

Bicycle spokes are divided into three large groups, which differ in their technical characteristics:

• by the thickness (caliber) of the knitting needles - this rod can have a thickness of 1.5 mm, 1.6 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm and 2.34 mm;
• by the type of head - bent spokes, used on assembled wheels, and straight spokes, installed on branded wheelsets;
• by constructive type - cylindrical with butted and flat (aerospitz).

Note: butting is a reduction in the thickness of the spoke in the middle (central) part of it, although towards the edges the spoke "acquires" its declared thickness. In this way, manufacturers reduce the weight of the spoke without compromising its quality and functionality.

How to correctly install and / or tighten the spokes on a bicycle

No matter how the statement of bicycle masters sounds, but the problem with installing / replacing and tightening the spokes on a bicycle wheel is the most common problem when customers contact service points. But for experienced cyclists, such statistics are not at all surprising - thin spokes have a great influence on the dynamics of the bike, and the quality of riding, and on the safety of the bike.

In order to tighten the needles, use a special tool - a spoke wrench. The bicycle parts under consideration are installed and tightened by twisting the nipple, while the main point in the process is the uniform tension of all the spokes - this serves as a guarantee of even distribution of the load on the wheel rim.

In general, bicycle wheel lacing can be carried out in different ways, but the most popular and reliable are radial and cross. At home, experienced cyclists often make a three-cross spoke setting, that is, the spokes in the wheel intersect three times with each other.

Installing the spokes of a bicycle wheel

Adjusting the spokes on a bicycle is carried out in several stages. All work can be done at home if the necessary tools are available.

The first step is determining the length of the bike parts

If you have to adjust the spokes on the front wheel of the bicycle, then you can not even deal with determining the length of the parts - it is believed that it is the front wheel that is structurally simple, the length of all spokes is absolutely the same.

As for the rear bicycle wheel, things are a little more complicated. The fact is that in this wheel the spokes are set of different lengths, since it is necessary to observe the difference in inclination.

Note:experts do not recommend that you independently determine the length of the knitting needles. For this, there are special calculators on the sites that allow you to get necessary calculations in online mode.

The second step is editing

To carry it out, you need some tool - a spoke wrench and a screwdriver. And you need to do the work in strict accordance with the step-by-step instructions:

1. Lubricate the points of connection with the nipples on the parts of the wheel and the threaded part of the spokes.
2. If there is a recessed entrance on the flange only on one side, then the spokes must be installed from the opposite side.
3. Nine spokes are installed in the flange - this is done through one hole, that is, there should be a free "niche" between the spokes.
4. If the work is carried out with the rear wheel, then the spokes are mounted to the right of the hub.
5. We find the same located on the right side of the valve inlet on the rim, place a spoke in it and twist the nipple, making 2 turns.
6. From the first installed knitting needle we count 4 inputs clockwise and mount the second knitting needle and also twist the nipple in two turns.
   Note: The threaded part of the sleeve should be located towards the one who carries out the work.
7. In the process of installing the spokes, you need to check the correct operation - the spokes should connect the rim to the right with the hub flange, and there should be three free inlets between the installed spokes.

The subsequent spokes are installed according to the same principle, and then the wheel must be turned towards you with the opposite side and the spokes must be installed in the order indicated above. Installation begins with the key spoke, which is located to the left of the valve inlet.

Note: when all the spokes are installed, you need to align the nipples to the same twist depth. That is why it is recommended to make 2 turns in each case, so as not to make a mistake, and it will be easier to regulate them at the end of the work.

Step Three - Tensioning the Spokes

This step is considered final and easy to complete. You just need to make sure that the nipples are screwed in the same number of turns. If the needles are short, then this can be determined by the number of visible "steps" of the thread in the nipples

After all the steps are completed, you need to install the wheel with the dialed spokes on a special machine or any other device (you can use a bicycle for this). It is in this position that all the irregularities will be visible - the skew of the wheel in any direction can be corrected by adjusting the twist of the nipples. In most cases, half a turn is sufficient to align the wheel. Please note that such a check must be carried out twice - when the wheel is horizontal and when it is vertical.

Perhaps all fans of cycling will sooner or later face the need to remap the wheels. This is due to the fact that the wheel can lose its original shape and, as a result, make further use of the bicycle impossible.

Causes of wheel deformation

There can be several reasons due to which the wheel is pretty bent:

• This is, of course, the weight of the cyclist, which puts stress on the wheels day in and day out. Since a person's weight can be different, then the load, respectively, is also different.
• Braking your bike harshly can create additional load for wheel spokes.
• Sharp turns in the cyclist's path can also cause deformation.
• Uneven terrain on which the bike rides often leads to problems with the wheels.
• A hard hit or fall will most likely lead to the so-called eight.
• And in the end, just loose spokes will lead to nothing more than wheel deformations.

These problems are not so terrible and can be solved by re-spacing the wheels. It is best if the user knows the assembly of the bike and can handle it on their own, because no one knows where the problem may overtake. And, of course, in any service center, experienced specialists will provide a service for any type of repositioning.

The main types of wheel spacing

There are two main types of knitting:

• Radial.
• Tangential.

There are several more names that are a refinement of the pattern resulting from the spokes of the wheel:

• Mixed.
• Twisted knitting needles.

Features of radial lacing

Experienced specialists use this type of lacing mainly for the front wheels. This is explained by the fact that they are less subject to stress from the pedals and brakes. But, despite this, the wheel receives a colossal load, which is directed vertically. That is why, with radial lacing, a large number of knitting needles are used. Mechanics recommend optimal amount spokes 32.

It is worth noting that with this method of lacing, it does not play a big role where the head of the spoke is facing. At the request of the cyclist, it can be directed inward of the hub flanges, and outward.

Features of tangential lacing

This spoke perfectly withstands all the stresses that arise during driving. At the same time, there is one caveat: the wider the angle formed between the flanges and the spoke, the stronger the wheel. This is because this arrangement distributes the load evenly without causing any particular damage to the bike.

Tangential spoke lacing is ideal for rear wheels, including discs. They are always loaded with pedals and brakes. The most popular and durable design is the three crosses. This drawing has proven its strength and reliability over time and tests.

How to properly re-spoke a bicycle wheel

In order to correctly perform the spacing of the wheel, you first need to know all the stages of such work. With a wide variety of parts available in shops and markets, cyclists can decide what to buy. But you need to understand that this is a rather complicated and time-consuming process. Therefore, you should not be upset if not everything will turn out right away. This skill comes with experience.

Diy bicycle wheel re-spacing step by step instructions

The whole process of re-spacing, in principle, can be divided into three stages:

• Determining the right spoke length.
• Installation.
• Tension adjustment.

The correct calculation of the length of the spoke is calculated with a special very complex formula. But on the Internet, special programs have now appeared that will quickly calculate the length suitable for a given bicycle. The Lexapskov calculator is very popular. Users claim that this program is very easy to use and at the same time quite accurate in calculations.

The type of knitting is also indicated there, but basically this is knitting in three crosses. This method is perhaps the most popular. And only after all the calculations are completed, you can safely go to the store and buy the needed knitting needles.

Installation is a rather long and laborious process:

• It is recommended to lubricate the thread of each spoke with oil or grease. This is for easy rotation of the nipples.
• The next step is to distribute the needles into four equal groups.
• One group of knitting needles must be tucked into the flange from you, and the other towards you. At the same time, experts advise starting with the one that is directed away from oneself.
• The rim must be kept in your lap for easy lacing.
• After refueling the first group, you need to put on the nipple, while fixing the first spoke well on the rim.
• And, counting, from the first knitting needle, three holes, and insert into the fourth.
• If everything is done correctly, then between the spokes on the flange there will be one empty hole, and on the rim there will be three holes.
• Further, the rim is turned over and work continues.
• Take a spoke and run it so that it is parallel to the hub axis to the opposite flange.
• It is imperative to ensure that the spoke rests strictly between the holes, after which it is inserted into the left one.
• Thus, all the spokes defined in the second group are located.
• Next, turn the wheel again with the right flange towards you and begin to introduce the next spoke.


• The spoke is threaded through a hole in the flange, no matter which one, but from the inside.
• In this case, the spoke must intersect with the three spokes previously installed on the same flange.
• Next, you will have to bend the needle slightly so that it can pass behind the cross needle.
• It is very important that between the needles after three crosses there is one hole, which is already occupied.
• All other knitting needles are installed the same way.
• At this stage, it is easy to find an error: if the spoke does not reach the desired hole and the nipple cannot be screwed in.

Spoke tension stage

• For this, it is recommended to tighten all nipples at the same number of revolutions.
• In this case, the knitting needles are absolutely free, but the degree of their tension is equal.
• Before stretching, you can bend the knitting needles slightly with your hands to the flange itself so that they are smoother.
• You need to pull the knitting needles evenly and slowly.
• If defects in shape appear, you must slowly remove them individually.
• In order to remove the egg, you first need to understand exactly where the top point on the rim is. If the vertex coincides with one of the knitting needles, then this knitting needle should be pulled up one full turn, and the neighboring ones - by half a turn each. And if the top fell between the spokes, then you should tighten them by half a turn and that's it.
• When the so-called umbrella appears, it is recommended that all the needles be tightened by half a turn from the problem side.

• Carefully select the parts and tools required for re-lacing the wheel.
• Carry out all calculations for the length of the needles and double-check them for correctness.
• Strictly follow the instructions for re-mixing.
• If you find an error, it's best to start over.
• You need to tighten the knitting needles alternately.
• Pulling deviations should be removed in turn in all planes.
• Never overtighten the knitting needles. The fact is that this can damage both the nipple and the rim.
• If you find overtightened knitting needles, it is worth weakening not only them, but also the neighboring ones.
• In this case, the needles should not be too loose. These spokes will break easily while riding.
• After tightening the spokes, you should always check the setting.
• A couple of months after re-spacing the wheel, you need to check the tension.

veloinsider.ru

Lateral runout

1. If you have a normal figure eight, that is, lateral runout, then there is no need to remove the tire. Just turn the bike upside down and sit next to it, the process will be long.

2. The first step is to determine the degree of curvature of the rim. If you have vibrating racks, then everything is simple - bring them to the minimum distance so that the rim only slightly touches the shoe in the most protruding place. By spinning the wheel, you immediately see which way the rim led.

If the brakes are disc brakes, then put something like a screwdriver or a handle on the feathers and bring it to the rim. At this stage, we are just looking at how strong the curvature is and in which direction.

3. Take chalk, and resting your hand on the feathers, lean it firmly against the most protruding section of the rim. Twist slowly, making sure that the hand with the chalk is still. Thus, it turns out that in the place of the greatest curvature, the chalk trace is most pronounced, losing strength and completely disappearing towards the edges of the figure eight.

4. Determine the center of the figure eight, and find the most center spoke. If the rim is pulled to the right, then that spoke will attach to the right side of the hub, and vice versa.

5. Logic dictates that the side the rim has gone need to weaken... This is correct, but the trick is that the opposite side must be pulled simultaneously with exactly the same amount of effort. If you do not do this, then the rim can lead in a radial direction, and it will be more difficult to straighten it.

6. Loosen the center needle of the figure eight (in our case, the one on the right side of the hub) by half a turn. The trick: always with knitting needles you need to do this: if you want to turn it half a turn, then turn it three quarters and return it a quarter back. This is necessary in order so that the nipple is "seated".

7.On each side of the center knitting needle (we have the right one, since the figure eight is right), two knitting needles will be left. Pull them on for exactly the same number of revolutions.

8. Move on to the edges of the figure eight (just do not confuse which knitting needles you have already touched). But with each new "layer" of spokes reduce the number of revolutions... If, for example, you started with a half-turn, then you can finish with 1/8.

9. Now spin the wheel, press the chalk again and see what happens. It won't work very well at first. If you overdid it, then the eight can accept the opposite direction, it can also split into two small eights.

10.Continue in the same spirit until you catch everything. For disc brakes, you don't need to try too much: minor eights can only influence the opinion of aesthetes. On vibrating racks, you need to bring the rim to perfect condition.

11. When, nevertheless, after a long time you managed to achieve your goal, remove the wheel from the frame, remove the eccentric and lay it on the floor, flat. Leaning the sleeve on the floor, grasp the rim with both hands and push with all your weight on the wheel. Then grab another spot on the rim and repeat. Then flip the wheel and start over.

You can hear the crackle - do not be alarmed, it shrinks the spokes... After such a procedure, you need to check again for eights, and if something manifests itself, then again correct and "seat".

After all these operations, you will again have a flat wheel, like from a store. No need to go to a bike mechanic, waste time and money. Gradually, you will be so trained to edit the eights that you will do it literally in five minutes, without any chalk, by eye.

Radial runout (ellipse, egg)

To edit the eight, popularly called the "egg" is somewhat more difficult.

1. First of all, remove the tire to make sure the curve is rim and not rubber as is often the case.

2. On an inverted bike, spin the wheel, and attach an object on top, note with chalk the area of ​​the rim that the object lifts. Try to localize the very center, the main spoke.

3. Now you have to keep track of three directions at the same time: start to loosen the tension, starting with the center spoke, pull the adjacent two spokes exactly the same number of turns so that there is no figure eight and pull the spokes at the opposite end of the wheel to prevent an egg from appearing elsewhere.

It seems very difficult (it is) and only experience is needed here. You need to understand that you will not wind up anything particularly terrible, and you can always start all over again, loosening, and then evenly pulling all the knitting needles.

4. Just like in the case of the figure eight. after straightening the egg need to "seat" the needles pressing on them with all our weight.

Editing "Umbrella"

There is also such a concept - "umbrella". Look, most likely your wheel rim is not perfectly aligned in the middle of the hub, but offset to one side. This is called an "umbrella". The values ​​for this offset depend on the type of brakes and frame design.

You need to edit the "umbrella" in the same way as the eights - pull the knitting needles on one side, and loosen the knitting needles on the other side by the same force. Only here, in contrast to the editing of eights, the effort should not fade, but stay level around the entire circumference.

How to change a broken spoke

The spokes tend to break, so when going on a hike, even if it is completely asphalt, it makes sense to take spare heels with you. Please note that if the spoke breaks on the side from which the cassette is installed, then it will have to be removed. This means that you must have at least a special slotted and adjustable wrench. The whip, if anything, can be replaced with a rag.

1. To change a spoke, have to remove the tire... Also remove the rim tape (which protects the tube from the spoke holes in the rim). Pull the broken knitting needle up.

2.Insert a new spoke into the spoke hole of the hub.... To pull it to the hole in the rim, you will have to bend it thoroughly - no panic, this is essentially a wire, again it will become straight under tension.

3. Examine the knitting pattern, your new one should stand in the same way - repeat the same algorithm as on the other knitting needles.

4. Insert the nipple from above, screw it into the thread of the spoke, pull. If several are broken, then carry out similar work.

5. Align the eights and shrink the knitting needles.

If the spokes constantly fly out, and even on the one hand, then the matter here may be (except for overload) that some spokes are strongly tightened and take on more load.

Need a strain gauge, a device that measures the tension of the spokes, it is in any bicycle workshop. If you are in the field, then release all the spokes, and begin to pull them evenly (to the touch).

It so happens that the rim is very crooked, and in order to straighten the figure eight, you have to tighten the spokes of one side strongly - they fly out when a certain load threshold is exceeded. Then it is better to put up with some eight.

I hope that these simple tips will help my readers not to give up in front of eights, and to correct them on their own. The main thing here is experience. The more often you do this, the faster and more accurately you do it.

Friends, let's not get lost on the Internet! I invite you to receive email notifications about the publication of my new articles, so you will always know that I have written something new. Follow the link, please.

kotovski.net

How to tighten the spokes on a bicycle correctly?

Tightening the spokes at home is not an easy job and you will have to spend a sufficient amount of time on this operation, especially if you are starting the repair for the first time. To successfully complete this task, you should prepare special tools, without which you will not be able to tighten the spokes on a bicycle. To adjust the knitting needles you must purchase:

• special key for adjustment;
• a device that allows balancing;
• a set of keys for dismantling the wheel;
• screwdrivers.

Sequence of work

Initially, you should dismantle the wheel and install it in a special device that allows you to balance it. If you are unable to locate such a device, simply turn the bike over and mount it on the handlebars and seat without removing the wheels. To check how the spoke tension is done, we make a swinging motion. Thus, it is necessary to check all the elements, the deviation of the free play should not exceed 2 mm.

Each problematic part should be marked with, for example, a piece of electrical tape.

Using a special wrench, tighten the loosened elements to the required level, everyone needs equal tension. Tensioning these structural elements on the bike should be the same length, in order to understand whether you did it correctly, it is enough to count the number of threads remaining after tensioning the nipples.

If you do not initially set the nipple tension at the same level, you will not be able to get a reliable picture of rim curvature.

After full stretching, most likely, a figure-eight curvature of the rim will appear, horizontal beating may appear. To eliminate these problems, we use a special centering device. If there is no device, it is necessary to determine the boundaries of the curvature with the help of chalk, for which we fix the chalk in such a way that when the wheel turns, a trace remains on its rim. Thus, we find the peak of the deviation, with which we will have to work in the future.

If you find a hump on the right side on the width of four spokes, tighten two of them by half a turn at the left flange. Give two more pieces at the right flange half a turn. Thus, we achieve the alignment of the rim to the left side. If there are not four, but three knitting needles on the hump, pull the first one half a turn, and release two by a quarter.

By following these steps in sequence, you will be able to eliminate the horizontal curvature in the form of a figure eight.

To start debugging the rim and eliminate the vertical runout (ellipse), it is enough to reapply the chalk, but this time we move it from the edge of the wheel to the center, determining as a result the strongest deviation. The strongest deviation, determined as a result of the shallow check, is eliminated by tensioning the nipples where the bushing hole is. When we are in the place of the problem with three knitting needles, tighten the middle one by half a turn, and lower the outer ones by a quarter. With an even number of parts in the center of the curvature, all are pulled up by half a turn.

How hard should you pull the knitting needles?

It is recommended to perform final wheel tension equalization only after rim curvature issues have been resolved. You should not allow such a position when some of the spokes are relaxed, and some are pulled like a string to ringing.

As mentioned above, the main criterion for correct tension is the deflection of the element when it oscillates up to 2 mm.

The tension and balancing are performed correctly if during shrinkage there are no extraneous sounds in the form of crackling or squeaking.

provelik.ru

What is the spacing

There are two most popular types of wheel lacing - radial and cross. Radial lacing is only used for assembling the front wheels, which will be equipped with rim brakes. The radial pattern has a significant drawback - a wheel with such a spoke is subjected to the highest load in the vertical direction. And, perhaps, the only advantage of this option can be called an eye-pleasing appearance.

Far more versatile and functional is the cross lacing. Cross lacing may look less impressive, but it allows you to achieve the most adequate response to the braking and rotating forces from the hub. With this option, even the most serious load from braking and pedaling is transferred to the stretching of the spokes.

Mixed lacing is rarely used. This option is somewhere between the radial and cross methods.

Having decided on the type of spokes, you can safely begin the process of assembling the wheel. It is divided into several stages.

Stage one. Determining the Right Needle Length

It is very important to choose the correct length for your bicycle spokes. In this regard, much less problems arise with the front wheel - here the spokes on both sides have the same length. With the back, everything is much more complicated. Multiple speeds set on the rear wheel make it difficult to center. The needles will have different lengths and angles. To determine the appropriate length, special calculators have been created that allow you to calculate the required parameters online.

Stage two: Installation

For successful wheel packing you will need:

• Rim;
• Knitting needles;
• Sleeve;
• Spoke key;
• Screwdriver.

If you have to re-spoke a wheel for the first time, then pay special attention that the holes on the rim are slightly offset (tilted) to the sides. The spokes from the right flange of the hub should be inserted into the holes that are offset to the right, and from the left flange - to the left. Half of the spokes on each flange are leading. The other half is the tail.

• Leading spokes are those that point in the direction of rotation of the rim. As a rule, they are indicated by shades of blue.
• The tail spokes are against the rotation of the wheel. Most often they are indicated by shades of red.

The first is the tail spoke, which must pass inside the flange. It should be inserted from the outside of the right flange and directed into the right-offset hole in the rim, which is located next to the valve hole. The nipple must be closed a few turns so that the spoke cannot fall out. The next spoke should be directed into the hole of the same flange, the next through three holes after the first installed.

The next step is to turn the bicycle wheel so that it is in front of the left flange of the hub. The second set of knitting needles inserted will also be the tail needles. You need to turn the rim so that the spool is at the top. Pay attention to the very first spoke installed - if it is in the first hole after the spool, then the first spoke of the left flange should be located to the left, if the first spokes installed in the second hole after the spool, then the first spoke of the left flange should be located on the left.

When all the tail needles are in place, you can move on to the leading needles. We turn the bicycle wheel towards us with the right flange. The leading spokes are installed from the inside of the flange. They can be inserted into any hole. After that, turn the hub clockwise so that the leading spoke intersects with the three tail spoke. It is important that it crosses the first two from the outside, and the third from the inside. You may need to bend it slightly to install. There is nothing wrong with that. The rest of the leading spokes are installed in the same way.

Visual video:

Stage three. Tension adjustment

The first step is to make an initial adjustment, which involves tightening all the nipples evenly. Be sure to make sure that all nipples are screwed in the same number of turns - the spokes must have the same tension. Typically, the lead spokes are curved close to the flange. Before starting the tensioning procedure, they must be folded by hand by pressing on each spoke near the flange.

The final tension should be applied after the initial adjustment has been completed. Correct tension will ensure that the wheel does not run out while driving, which is very important for comfortable movement.

Summing up, we can safely say that wheel spokes are far from the most difficult procedure. If you are sure that you can handle the knitting, have sufficient patience, skills, knowledge and skills, then this procedure will not be a problem.

velofans.ru

Wheel is one of the most important parts of a bicycle. If you take two bike- one super duper and the other cheap ten-speed - and change the wheels on them, then the cheap one will be faster. But find good wheels not so easy. And the fact that wheel balanced at the time of purchase does not at all guarantee that it will remain so during operation.

The very process of wheel alignment requires highly qualified and, as a result, a lot of experience. Many professional riders do almost all of the bike tuning themselves, but the professionals rely on the wheel alignment. Therefore, you must be prepared for the fact that the first time you may not be able to do the alignment well.

To work, you need a special spoke wrench (more precisely, for the spoke nipples). Nipples are different sizes: 3.22 mm, 3.3 mm, 3.45 mm, 3.96 mm It is important that the key fits exactly, otherwise it will slip.

This is what the spoke keys look like.

It is desirable, but not necessary, to have a special wheel straightening machine and a tool for measuring force spoke tension... And it's really great if you have a special tool for centering the rim relative to the hub.

Wheel straightening machine

If you do not have a special machine, then you can align wheel directly on the bike using the rim brake pads to assess deformations. In this case, it is necessary to especially carefully check how level the wheel is and how the brakes work.

The actions are usually described in steps: the first step, the second, etc. In this case, most of all, that some operations will need to be repeated several times. It is quite possible that after straightening the ovoid (radial offset), the lateral offset will have to be corrected again, or vice versa.

There are several criteria for assessing adjustments:
Lateral displacement
Radial displacement
Needle tension
Centering with respect to the sleeve

All of these misalignments are corrected by tightening the spoke (turning the nipple clockwise) or loosening the spoke (counterclockwise). In this case, only the nipple rotates, the spoke itself does not rotate.

The spokes on the right pull the rim to the right. Those on the left - to the left. If the spokes are taut on one side, then the rim will be "skewed" at this point. It is worth paying attention to the following important point: the spoke affects not only the section of the rim to which it is attached, but also the adjacent ones (but to a lesser extent).

One spoke tension acts on adjacent rim sections

Since few people have a wheel straightening machine, the further description is focused on the option with installing a wheel on a bicycle. Naturally, before adjusting the rim, you need to remove the tire and tube. (There should also be a flipper - such a strip that protects the camera from the spokes, it can be removed immediately).

Needle tension

You can start inspecting the wheel with the tension on the spokes. If there are knitting needles that are not at all taut, you need to tighten them.

You can measure the tension of the spokes using a special tool. Each wheel has its own recommended values. The rear spokes always tighten more than the front spokes.

Analog and digital spoke tension meters

Perhaps experienced mechanics can tell the tension by sound or feel. But it seems to me that this is not the most reliable option.

Many bicycle mechanic specialists do not know how to properly assemble wheels at all, which can be ridden for a long time without adjustment. But even qualified mechanics do not have enough time for thorough work and skip some operations, as a result of which quality and reliability are reduced. Therefore, it is best to understand and assemble the wheels yourself. This is done as follows:

A. Set

1. Lubricate the spoke threads and rim with oil where they contact the nipples. Without this, it is impossible to pull the spokes tight enough.

2. If the holes on the hub flanges are countersunk on one side only, the spoke heads must be on the non-countersunk side. countersink is designed to bend the spoke.

3. Insert nine spokes into one flange with a free hole between them and with the heads on the outside. If this rear wheel, start at the right (threaded) side of the bushing.

4. Take the rim and find the closest to the right of the valve hole among the holes offset to the right.

5. Insert the first spoke into this hole and screw the nipple two turns. This spoke is called the key spoke.

6. Count four holes clockwise from the key spoke, insert the next spoke and screw on the nipple.

7. Check your progress against the following conditions:

a. The threaded part of the sleeve faces the worker;

b. The spoke closest to the valve hole is to the right of it;

with. Both spokes connect the right side of the rim to the right flange of the hub:

d. There are three free holes between the spokes.

8. If all of these conditions are met, secure the remaining seven spokes using every fourth hole in the rim.

9. Turn the wheel over. Now it is facing you with its left side. Next, you need to connect to the rim nine spokes inserted from the outside into the left flange.

10. Find the key spoke. It is located to the left of the valve hole or through one nipple hole.

The tenth spoke should be next to the key to the right (left - in the original) of the valve hole. In this case, the tenth spoke should not cross the key spoke.

11. After installing the tenth spoke, the remaining eight left flange spokes are dialed in the sequence shown above.

12. Now half of the spokes have been dialed. In the case of the rear wheel, these spokes are called drive spokes. Their heads should be on the outside of the 2 flange. If you look at the rim, pairs of free holes and pairs of holes with nipples should be interspersed along the entire circumference. The nipples should only be screwed in a few turns.

13. We turn to the tension spokes, the heads of which should be on the inside of the flange. We pass one tensioning needle through the hole in the flange and twist the sleeve so that the already dialed needles receive a direction as close as possible to the tangent to the flanges. For a rear wheel, grasp the threaded part of the hub and turn it clockwise. The first idler spokes intersect the three pre-assembled drive spokes (counting only those belonging to the same flange). Each tension needle should run outside of the first two needles it crosses and inward under the third one that it crosses.

When assembling the first nine idler spokes, be sure to insert them into the corresponding holes in the rim, i.e. in those that are offset to their flange.

14. The rest of the tension needles are recruited in the same way. In this case, it may turn out that the ends of some of the spokes do not reach the nipple holes. This is usually caused by one or more of the nipples snagging the nose of the rim and not going into the holes. If this is not the reason, then you have turned the nipples too far, which, until all the needles have been dialed, should turn no more than two turns.

B. Pre-tension

15. Before tightening the spokes, screw all the nipples to the same depth. For example, with long knitting needles so that their ends come out flush with the splines of the nipples. If the spokes are short for this, it is sufficient that the same number of threads are visible on all spokes. Uniform screwing of the nipples is very important because greatly facilitates the entire further process. In this case, the spokes should not be taut yet.

16. In the case of the rear wheel, now is the time to tackle the umbrella. The right knitting needles should have a higher tension than the left knitting needles. For most bushings, screwing all right nipples an additional 3.5 turns is sufficient as a first approximation.

17. Proceed to even tension of the spokes. Starting from the valve hole, turn each nipple one turn. If there is a lot of slack in the knitting needles, add one turn at a time. In this case, having passed three quarters of the rim, it may become difficult to turn the nipples. This means that the second turn is excessive and all nipples tightened on the second turn should be returned to their original position, i.e. unscrew one turn. After that, start again from the valve hole and screw all the nipples half a turn.

18. Install the wheel on the machine and see which unevenness of the rim is greater - vertical (ellipse) or horizontal (figure eight). You always need to edit the biggest one.

C. Editing the figure eight

19. Suppose we start with a figure eight, and the worst part of the rim is offset to the right over the four spokes. Two of them go to the right flange and two to the left. Tighten the left nipples a quarter of a turn, and release the right ones by the same amount, this section of the rim will move to the left. However, the tension of the spokes does not change, since as many spokes were loosened as tightened, and, moreover, by the same amount. If the section of the rim is shorter, for example, of three spokes - one left and two right, you can pull the left spoke half a turn, and release each of the right spokes a quarter of a turn. This is the principle of wheel balancing, thanks to which horizontal beats can be eliminated without compromising vertical ones.

20. What has been done may not be enough to completely correct this unevenness, but if there is improvement, you should not try to immediately achieve the final result. Now find the worst rim deflection to the left and tighten it. This way we go from one side to the other, we keep the pre-defined umbrella. Do not try to straighten the figure 8 better than 3 mm at this point. This is done in the final alignment after adjusting the umbrella and ellipse.

D. Editing an ellipse

21. Find the section of the rim farthest from the hub. By pulling the knitting needles in this place, they bring him closer to her. This increases the rigidity of the entire wheels. The principle of balance described above also applies here. Suppose the plot found has three nipples - two left and one right. If you tighten the two left-hand spokes half a turn each, and the right one one turn, then the rim protrusion will retract without disturbing the uniformity of the tightness. This way you can straighten the ellipse without degrading the noteworthy figure eight.

22. Find the next section of the rim farthest from concentricity and pull it out as described. Then the next section, and so on. Each time the wheel will get closer to the circle, the spoke will be pulled tighter.

23. To what extent should the knitting needles be tightened? The best thing is to be as stiff as possible before the nipple edges start to eat away - the tension on the spokes gives the wheel strength. While riding, at any given moment, the various forces applied to one spokes are added, those applied to the others are subtracted. The spokes must have sufficient tension so that if the forces applied are weakened, the spoke never loses tension. Successive cycles of tension and sagging result in fracture.

24. If the wheel is already round and the spoke tension is insufficient, tighten all the nipples the same amount (for example, half a turn) and check the wheel for concentricity again.

25. Straightening an ellipse requires more tightening than a figure eight, in which case you can tighten the knitting needles half a turn or even a full turn at a time. For preliminary dressing of the figure eight - a quarter and half a turn, for precise dressing - 1/8 and 1/4 turn.

E. Umbrella

26. The rear wheel umbrella should be in a plane halfway between the tips of the rear hub. Otherwise, the bike will tend to turn to the side.

27. The easiest way to check the correctness of the umbrella is the distance from the rim to the brake pads. This distance is measured with the wheel in the normal position and with the right end of the axle inserted into the left tip (i.e. the wheel is upside down). In both cases, the distance must be the same. However, this method is only suitable if the axle is not bent.

28. To adjust the umbrella, with the needles fully tensioned, release the nipples on one side by the same amount and tighten the nipples on the other side (usually 1/4 turn). If the spokes are not very tight, you can only tighten the nipples on the side where you want to slide the rim. This will simultaneously increase the rigidity of the entire wheel.

F. Final setup

29. The final setting consists in sequential repetition of all three processes, straightening the ellipse, figure eight and umbrella. Adjusting one can affect the rest, so at each moment you need to work on what is most different from the norm.

G. Final tension

30. Now you should have a wheel that is no different from the serial factory one: all three parameters are within the normal range, the spokes are sufficiently tight. Many mechanics would consider the job finished. However, when driving, such a wheel will quickly go out of the norm. The fact is that the spoke heads have not yet fully entered the holes of the flanges, and the nipples into the holes of the rim. When driving, they begin to "sit down" more tightly and upset the balance of the wheel.

31. There are several ways to shrink knitting needles. For example: take the wheel in both hands, push hard on the spokes at their intersections, turn the wheel and do the same with the next four spokes, and so on along the entire circumference of the wheel. In this case, creaks and crackles will be heard, that is, the sound of shrinking spokes. After this procedure, the wheel may become somewhat out of order. Adjust it again and repeat the needle wrench. Continue this entire process until it stops affecting the rim and the sound stops.

32. There is another reason why the wheel quickly goes out of order. This is the twisting of the knitting needles. When tightened tightly, the rotation of the nipple can initially twist, i.e. turn the spoke instead of pulling it up the thread. For example, suppose you want to tighten a knitting needle a quarter turn. In this case, the following happens not so rarely: first, at one eighth of a turn, the spoke itself rotates together with the nipple, then the thread is fed and pulls the spoke for the remaining 1/8 of a turn. After a while, the twisted spoke gives back and unwinds the tightening in the nipple. The easiest way to get rid of this is to tighten the nipple 3/8 of a turn and then loosen it 1/8 so that a clean 1/4 turn pull-up is obtained without twisting. With some experience, you will feel when the spoke begins to curl. A beginner can, before stretching, apply marks on all the needles with a felt-tip pen, which will rotate when twisted.

33. After the wheel is fully balanced, make sure the ends of the spokes do not protrude above the rim. Otherwise, they must be cut down.

34. Remove any remaining grease that will spoil monotubes or cameras!

35. When adjusting the wheel, do not rush under any circumstances. If you are tired, put off work and return to it only with a fresh mind.

bazila.net

How to replace a spoke?

1. A broken spoke is unlikely to jump out of the wheel, so you need to fix it or remove it to get to the house. You can screw it onto an adjacent spoke or tape it to it, and if you have a tool at hand, just bite off.


If the spoke on the rear drive wheel breaks down, then in most cases you will have to remove the sprocket block in order to get to the hub lugs.

You will probably have to remove the brake disc and for this you need special torx wrenches (sprockets), instead of the usual hexagons. Be careful when removing these bolts and when reinstalling them, be sure to use Threadlock or anti-tack compound to prevent the bolts from getting stuck.

2. Deflate the tire and remove the tube when not using a tubeless tire. Lift the rim strap and remove the connecting nut and spoke fragment from the wheel. Remove the remainder of the spoke from the corresponding lug on the hub.


3. Now you need to insert a new spoke. With a "three-cross" spokes of the wheel, it is necessary to draw a spoke over the first two and below the third nearest spoke. Alternatively, the wheels can have a "double-cross" or "straight" spoke configuration, so match the spoke to the adjacent spoke.


4. Now you need to install the union nut... To facilitate this task, insert the spoke into the hole in the rim and tighten the nut. Pull the spoke and hold the nut with a screwdriver until the spoke is fully tensioned.


5. Rotate the nut with a spoke wrench until the spoke is fully tensioned.... Remember to rotate counterclockwise when viewed from the rim side.


After installing a new spoke, it is a good idea to send the wheel to an adjusting machine, as broken spokes are often caused by incorrect adjustments. If you do not want to carry out the adjustment process completely, you can get a rough idea of ​​the correct tension by squeezing adjacent pairs of knitting needles with your fingers.

velosmak.ru

Friends! Probably, this is not exactly the Twentysix format, but I decided to post this small guide from the magazine here, so that everyone has the opportunity to evaluate and discuss the format of the permanent "Workshop" column. Also because, in the near future, we will try to carry out "import substitution" in relation to this heading by one of the domestic bicycle workshops.

So, the motto of the article: “Self-matching will certainly make you related to the bike. From you - skill and patience. From Ryder - step-by-step instructions. "

1. To assemble a wheel (with a camera), we need: a wheel centering machine, an umbrella gauge, a vernier caliper, a hammer, a blunt punch, a screwdriver, a folding rule, a suitable spoke wrench of approximately 3.2 mm for standard square nipples.

2. First, we measure the effective diameter of the ERD rim: carefully measure the inner diameter of the rim and add the thickness of the rim wall. We will need this figure to calculate the length of the knitting needles.

3. Now we will measure the diameter (circumference) of the location (centers) of the spoke holes of the hub. Please note that the diameter of this circle can be different for each flange. And in most cases, the front and rear hubs differ in this measure.

4. We issue a "passport" for each sleeve. We enter into it the diameters of the location of the spoke holes. Then we measure the length of the hub axle (in this case, 142 mm). Divide this number in half and mark the middle of the sleeve. Now, having positioned the sleeve on the sheet according to the picture, we measure the distance from its middle to each of the flanges (FD) using a vernier caliper. In our case, these are 33 and 20 mm. Note that due to the mounting of the brake rotor, the front hubs are also asymmetrical.

5. We recommend using one of the online calculators to calculate the length of the knitting needles. For example, the spoke length calculator on the DT Swiss website.
Translation of terms for the calculator: Front wheel - front wheel; Rear wheel - rear wheel; Rim Diameter / ERD - type of rim and / or ERD (see above); Hub - bushing; Pitch circle diameter - PCD (see above); Flange distance - FD (see above); Ø of spoke hole - diameter of the spoke hole; No. of spokes - the number of spokes; No. of intersections - the number of intersections (type of spacing, in this case - three); Nipple - nipple type; Spoke length (precise) - the exact length of the spoke; rounded - rounded length.

6. We pass the first spoke through any spoke hole in the hub flange from the inside from the rotor side and fix the spoke with a nipple in the second spoke hole of the rim from the hole for the camera nipple (bottom photo).

8. Having passed the spoke through the hole in the hub flange (step 6), insert its end into the hole in the rim, leaving three free holes between the adjacent spokes. We fix with nipples. That is, there must be a spoke in every fourth hole.

9. Now we bring the spokes to their working position: while holding the rim with one hand, we rotate the sleeve in the opposite direction of movement (see photo). The spokes must enter the rim at an obtuse angle.

10. Finishing the rotor side lacing. To do this, thread the next eight spokes through the remaining holes of the same sleeve flange from the opposite (outer) side.

11. Turning the loose knitting needle in the direction of rotation of the sleeve (see step 9), draw it behind the two nearest fixed knitting needles and in front of the third. Then, as shown in the photo, we thread this spoke into the middle of the three free holes on the rim and secure it with a nipple. We do the same with all the other knitting needles.

12. The thickened (end) part of the spoke nipples has splines. Having inserted a screwdriver or a socket wrench for the spokes into the slot (see photo), we screw the nipple onto the spoke for two or three turns, without using force.

13. Now we pass the first "reference-spoke" (not to be confused with the "leading") through the hole of the second flange from the inside. Before that, we turn the wheel so that the tire nipple is at the top point. Focusing on the rim hole closest to the nipple in the direction of travel of the bicycle (on the left), we find the corresponding hole on the hub flange, also located in the direction of travel (see photo). We fix the knitting needle in this position. So there will be no spoke intersection opposite the bus nipple, interfering with the pump connection.

14. Insert the next spoke into the nearest hole in the flange to the left of the reference spoke. We pass this knitting needle into the hole from the outside, so that its head looks outward from the sleeve.

15. The remaining seven spokes are threaded into every second hole in the flange (do not insert into the rim yet). At the same time, we make sure that the needle does not fall into the honey triangle with the needles of the other side, but remains free. Throw over third spoke from the right from the reference spoke through it from the outside and insert it into the nearest free hole from the tire nipple to the left (the principle "behind, behind, in front, fix"). The remaining spokes are sequentially inserted into every fourth hole in the rim so that they do not intersect with other spokes, and secure with nipples.

16. Thread the remaining eight knitting needles in the same sequence from the inside of the flange into the free holes. Then they will need to be inserted into the free holes in the rim and secured.

17. Since all the other spokes are already secured, there is little room to maneuver. Therefore, we take each of the last spokes with both hands and insert it into the corresponding hole in the rim, observing the pattern of three intersections "back, back, front" and the same angles of intersection of the spokes.

18. Now that we have a full umbrella formed, screw the nipples deeper onto each spoke until the entire thread is out of sight - but no further!

19. Now we fix the wheel in the centering (straightening) machine. So that the wheel centering line does not deviate to one side, we check that it is firmly fixed in the machine “fork” mountings. Then, starting from the tire nipple, tighten all the short spokes of the wheel one full turn. On the front wheel it will left-hand side in the direction of travel of the bike, and on the rear - right (transmission side). Then we move on to the knitting needles of the opposite side.

20. It is necessary to exclude friction of the spoke heads on the holes during the vibrations of the spokes. To do this, by careful blows using a hammer and a blunt punch, align the head of each spoke with the flange surface.

21. We tighten the knitting needles by about a couple of turns in the sequence indicated above (first on the “short” side, then on the side of the long knitting needles). We remove the wheel from the machine and install the umbrella gauge on the end of the wheel hub from the side of the short spokes and on the rim on both sides. Using the adjusting wheel, we adjust the length of the umbrella meter axis in such a way as to eliminate the gaps at these three points (rim sides on the right and left, the end of the sleeve). Then we put the umbrella gauge on the opposite side of the wheel (with long spokes).

22. If the rim is not equidistant from the hub, tighten all the spoke nipples on the corresponding side of the flange half a turn. The adjustment should always be directed towards the long needles. We check the result of broaching by re-installing the umbrella gauge on the wheel and aligning it.

23. We bring together both probes of the wheel straightener and bring them to the rim until one of the probes starts to cling to the rim. To straighten the ellipse, the nipples are always tightened only a quarter of a turn. The same number of knitting needles is always pulled up on the left and right.

24. Mark the area of ​​radial beating with white tape. We tighten the knitting needles (clockwise with respect to outside rim) by a quarter turn. And, if the beating section covers only five knitting needles, we slightly tighten the sixth too, so as not to make an eight.

25. The figure eight is indicated by the lateral beating of the rim on the machine probe. To straighten it, slightly loosen the nipples on the beating side and tighten the nipples on the opposite side until the rim stops scratching the probe with a scratch.

26. Excessive tension can damage both the hub and the rim. To check the tension, squeeze the two crossed knitting needles with medium force. The intersection point must not move more than one centimeter.

27. After all broaches, the concentricity of the wheel must be checked again. Straighten if necessary. Just make sure not to overtighten the knitting needles.

28. To prevent the appearance of eights and ellipses, the wheel should be “crimped” after lacing. We set the wheel on a solid stand and carefully lean on it with our weight, after which we again check it for concentricity and runout.

____________________

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twentysix.ru

Types of spokes placement in the wheel

In practice, two types of spoke arrangement are used - one radial, the other cross. The radial gives a small benefit in terms of aesthetics, but lags far behind in terms of mechanics. This method can only be used for front wheels with rim brakes. It is not at all suitable for transmitting torque between the hub and the periphery of the wheel.

The cross method of wheel assembly is recognized as the most functional in the entire history of equipment operation. It transmits in an optimal way the mechanical stresses that arise during the movement.

The choice of the spoke placement has a profound effect on the wheel assembly process, especially at the initial stage. After all, the selection of a spoke for a bicycle, installation and adjustment depends on this.

Where does the assembly begin

On the side of a bicycle wheel, start by selecting all the components and tools. In this case, the difference between the front and rear wheels must be taken into account. If the front for us is symmetrical, then with the back everything is much more complicated.

The sprocket drive makes it possible to take into account the possible nuances of the central hub. The main difficulty at this stage is to determine the length of the spokes, taking into account the specified features of the front and rear wheels. As a result of the first stage, we should have selected: a rim, an axial sleeve, spokes with nipples of a suitable length, and from the tool - a spoke wrench and a screwdriver.

Bicycle spokes: installation

With the cross method, it is useful to distinguish two types of knitting needles in the direction of their installation: leading and tail. The leading ones are placed in the direction of rotation, and the tail ones are against. Starting the assembly, insert the needles from the outside into the holes of the right flange of the bushing through one, and they should come out from the side of the countersink. They will become tail.

Then on the rim we find the exit slot for the nipple of the camera. Select the hole that runs along the right side of the rim and secure the first spoke there. When screwing on the nipple, do not forget to use lubricant, this will subsequently facilitate broaching and adjustment. Initially, everything is profitable for a couple of turns.

The next spoke is attached to the fourth hole in a clockwise direction. Similarly, we repeat the procedure on all tailpipes on the right side. On the rim, a quarter of the holes will be occupied and three free between them.

Then we move on to setting the tail of the left side. We turn the wheel over and start again from the camera output. Only now we put the spoke in the hole on the left side of the rim and on the other side of the lead-out. The result will be a location next to the first one with a slight shift. We do the same with the rest of the tail on the left side. Do not forget that they are also inserted into the flange from the outside.

Now we come to the installation of the leading spokes:

• They will be inserted from the inside of the flange.
• Each leader will cross with three tails of its side.
• It crosses the first two from the outside, and under the last one it starts from the inside.
• The order in which the leaders are installed is not important, the rules of intersections are respected.

The second stage will end when we have a fully assembled wheel, and the nipples on the spokes are just baited.

Tension and Shape Adjustment

This stage requires a responsible approach, and does not like haste. It starts by tightening the nipples by an equal number of revolutions. Better to go around the rim several times, increasing the tightening one turn. For ease of adjustment, the lead spokes can be slightly bent at the last intersection.

When all the knitting needles are free of play, it's time to control the shape. The wheel should not have deviations from the plane of symmetry of the "umbrella" type; end and lateral runout ("ellipse" and "eight").

All these deviations are removed by loosening some and tightening the other spokes in accordance with the necessary geometry correction.

At the end of all adjustments, we check that the tips of the spokes do not protrude from the nipples. If necessary, we work with a file.

Today we will talk about how to properly fix an egg and figure eight on a bicycle with your own hands. We will also consider the techniques and devices for straightening the wheel rim with an eight and an egg with detailed diagrams

The most common types of bicycle wheel defects are figure eight and egg. The occurrence of deformations is facilitated by the active operation of the vehicle and intensive driving on uneven bumpy roads.

You can identify and correct these types of deformities on your own, without resorting to the help of a qualified specialist. It is quite easy to diagnose the presence of defects. To do this, turn the bike upside down, placing it vertically.

Next, you need to spin the problem wheel by rotating it around the axis. As a rule, the figure eight is visible to the naked eye. If it comes about a slight deformation during the rotation of the wheel (if the figure eight is not visible, upon first examination), a characteristic clicking sound will be heard.

CORRECTIVE TOOLS

To repair your vehicle yourself, you will need the following tools:

· Marker or chalk;

· Plastic assemblies for dismantling the tire;

· Spoke key.

ALGORITHM FOR REMOVAL OF DEFORMATION

To begin with, you need to determine the problem area as accurately as possible, identifying the lesion focus. Next, you need to find the central wire in the affected area.

Please note: if the figure eight falls to the right side, the first step is to tighten (or loosen) the spoke on the opposite side with a spoke wrench. After performing the manipulation (you need to tighten the knitting needle little by little, by about 1/3 of a turn), you must immediately check the result. Next, in the same way, you need to tighten the adjacent knitting needles on the opposite side. The number of key turns for tightening adjacent spokes should be approximately two times less than the tightening of the center spoke. As you move away from the deformation site, the number of revolutions should gradually decrease proportionally.

First, remove the wheel and disassemble it by removing the tire and camera. It will be much more convenient to do this using assembly blades.

1. Next, put the wheel back into the fork dropouts. Using scotch tape, symmetrically fix two pieces of cardboard on the legs of the fork, in such a position that they strike against the walls of the rim.

2. Scroll the wheel and determine the deformed area (in this place the rim will strongly touch one of the cardboard boxes). We mark this section of the rim with a marker.

3. On the curved section, we need to find the spoke, which is in the center, on the opposite side from the bend, and using the spoke wrench, tighten it less than one turn.

4. Adjacent knitting needles that are already on the side of the bend must be loosened, but approximately half a turn. After completing this operation, spin the wheel and check the result.

5. We repeat these actions, but to a lesser extent until the result is completely satisfactory to us.

6. Now let's consider a case where the deformation of the rim occurs in the shape of an egg.

7. This time, to determine the curvature area, attach a piece of cardboard to the bridge of the fork.

8. In this area, you need to tighten all the spokes. The tension force increases from the edges to the center.

9. After that, slowly spin the wheel and check the result, if necessary, repeat the above operations.

In conclusion, we note that the eight wheel is primarily the enemy of rim brakes, and for disc brake system she's not that scary.

But rolling is always better on straight wheels, and applying the above tips on how to fix a figure eight on a bicycle wheel, getting rid of this problem will not be difficult for you.

training video:

An eight can appear on both the front and rear wheels of a bicycle. The main reason for its occurrence is the operation of the wheel in off-design or extreme situations:

1 too weak and uneven tension of the spokes of the wheel;

· 2 hitting a high obstacle, strong dynamic impact on the wheel.

Additional rigidity to the wheel is given by a chamber filled with compressed air; it also acts as a shock absorber, but only within certain limits: the cyclist will not feel a collision with small stones or branches. At the same time, neither the tread, nor the inflated tube will protect the wheel from the consequences of hitting a high curb or log.

Part of maintaining your bike should be checking and tightening the wheel spokes at least once a month.

Then you need to check if there are any jumped out or loose spokes in the wheel. Replacing the faulty spokes, the wheel is inserted into the fork, secured with nuts and started to rotate, pressing a piece of chalk to the fork near the rim (Fig. 8). Where the wheel hits, the chalk will leave a mark. In places where the spokes are loose, the chalk will not touch the rim. Using a nipple wrench, the knitting needles are tightened where the chalk has not left a mark, and slightly lowered in the places marked with chalk.
It takes practice to fix the G8. It can be difficult to fix an ovoid (ellipse) rim. In this case, you need to tighten the needles in the convex part of the ellipse and the same amount on the opposite side, and loosen the tension of the needles from the sides. Generally, when correcting an ellipse, start by loosening the knitting needles rather than tightening them. After the rim becomes round, the spokes are tightened to eliminate lateral runout and correct the figure-eight. Do not forget: the spokes must be tightened evenly, otherwise they may break off and the wheel will become unusable. After adjusting the wheel, the ends of the spokes that come out of the nipple on the rim must be filed to prevent puncture of the tube. Experienced cyclists use a multi-purpose adhesive to keep the spokes from loosening. In this case, the wheel receives the required rigidity. Then a safety tape is put on the rim. It is easier and safer to give it to a specialist - if you are only interested in the result, that is, a wheel without an eight.

If you want to learn how to deal with it yourself, that's another matter. Then it makes sense to sweat.

Let me explain a little the meaning of the diagram from the first post.

1. Each spoke pulls the rim not only towards the center of the wheel, but also sideways. Here key moment when editing eights (axial beats of the rim).

2. The spoke tension determines the circumference of the wheel. If, say, 4 spokes in a row are pulled in a row (in comparison with all the others), the rim will bend inward in this place - an "egg" will appear (radial beats of the rim).

3. Ideally, all wheel spokes should be equally tensioned. If they are stretched unevenly, the wheel does not hold its shape well - eights and eggs easily appear.

But to get an even wheel with equally tensioned spokes is possible only if the rim itself is even; if it is deformed, then some knitting needles will have to be pulled harder than others to align it.

Therefore, it is better to remove the eights not by tensioning the spokes, but by straightening the rim itself.

We put a block 1 cm thick on the floor, put the rim on it in the place that hits the side the most. We press on the rim on both sides of the block so that the rim bends and reaches the floor in the places we press on.

We check the tension of the spokes in the straightening zone, if there are overtightened ones, release them; checking the figure eight; straighten the rim again, if necessary, increasing the thickness of the block.

The distance from the block to the points of pressure on the rim depends on the "steepness" of the figure eight - the sharper the rim deviates, the closer to the bar we press and the thinner the bar should be.

When experience appears, it will be possible to align the rim not on the block on the floor, but on the knee. It comes out faster and more convenient, but with a bar it is more reliable - it is difficult to bend.

The process is not fast, but as a result we should get a wheel without beating and with correctly, evenly tensioned spokes. Such a wheel holds the load and shape well.

And the meaning of the diagram in the first post is as follows: if the wheel hits to the left, you need to increase the tension of the right spoke so that it pulls the rim to the right, eliminating the eight. But if you only increase the tension of the spokes in this place, the rim will go inward a little - an "egg" will appear. To avoid this, you need to release the left knitting needles on both sides of the stretched right.

Moreover, letting go as much as the right one was pulled.

If the right one was pulled half a turn, then the lefts adjacent to it must be released a quarter turn each.

The tension was increased by half a turn - it was reduced by half a turn with the adjacent knitting needles; the general tightness remained unchanged, the egg did not appear.

The general idea is as follows.

To tighten the knitting needles, you need a tool called a spoke wrench. By screwing in the nipple, these parts are installed and tightened. In this case, the main point is the uniformity of the tension of the spokes, which guarantees the correct distribution of the load.

The wheel spacing can be different, but the key is the cross and radial. The most common and convenient is called a three-cross: this means a triple intersection of each of the parts.

Spoke adjustment on a bicycle can be divided into several steps, including preparing, installing parts or padding the wheel, and tensioning the spokes. All stages can be done at home with patience, skills and free time, or you can entrust the rover to the master.

The first step is to determine the length of the bike parts. The front wheel, which is considered more technically simple, is described as having the same length of parts on both sides. As for the rear, it is distinguished by different length due to the difference in the inclination of the bicycle spokes. This is due to the requirements for wheel alignment and the presence of speeds. To calculate the length of the parts you are looking for, online calculators are often used, where it is enough to enter data on the dimensions of other parts and get the result.

The second, mounting, step requires a rim, spokes, bushing, oil, a spoke wrench and a screwdriver. The sequence of correct actions is as follows:

· Thoroughly lubricate the nipple connection points on the wheel parts and the threaded part of the spare parts to ensure that the spokes are properly tensioned.

· If there are recessed entries on the flange only from one side, the spokes must be installed from the side opposite to the recesses.

· Flange accepts nine parts with one unoccupied entry between each.

· On the rear wheel, spare parts are placed to the right of the hub.

On the rim among the entrances located on right hand, you need to find the one located on the right side of the valve inlet and place the first spoke in it, then screw the nipple by making two turns.

· Starting from the first spoke, four inputs are counted clockwise, the second spoke is installed and the nipple is screwed in the same way. The threaded part of the sleeve is facing you.

· The installation progress must be monitored: if everything goes right, then the spokes connect the rim on the right with the hub flange, also on the right, while there are three unoccupied holes between the spare parts.

· The next seven parts are secured in the same way, by installing in every fourth rim hole.

Now you need to turn the wheel on the opposite side and install 9 spokes in turn, mounting them in a flange located along left hand... In this case, you need to start with the key spoke, which is located to the left of the valve inlet. After placing it, install the remaining eight knitting needles in the same way as on the previous side.

· Inspection of the wheel should show that pairs of unoccupied entries alternate with pairs of nipple entries along the entire length of the rim. To secure the nipples, turn them two times.

· Installation stage of tensioning parts, whose heads are located on the reverse side of the flange. One of the spokes is threaded into the flange hole, and the bicycle hub is twisted in such a way that the direction of the already mounted parts turns out to be close to the tangent to the flanges.

· When installing the first tensioning parts, pay attention to their installation in the rim holes that are closer to the required flange. The remaining spare parts with a tension element are recruited in the same way. If they do not reach the nipple inputs, loosen the nipples of the spokes already inserted one turn.

· When the installation of all the spokes is complete, it is necessary to screw the nipples to the same depth.

Finally, the third step involves the tension of the spokes, which must be uniform, for which the nipples are twisted at the same level. If the parts are short, then the same number of threads should be visible after tightening. For long spare parts, the outgoing end is aligned with the slot of the nipples.

After that, each nipple must be screwed in the direction from the valve hole one turn and the parts must be checked for tension. If it is weak, then crank the nipple again, without achieving an excessively tight tension. If you have coped with the rim by 75%, and it has become almost impossible to tighten the nipple, then this signals an extra second revolution. You can cope with this situation by unscrewing the nipple one turn back.

Finally, it is necessary to put the desired wheel on a special machine or, in the absence of one, on the rover itself: this is how you can identify the irregularities of the part. Pay attention to whether irregularities are conspicuous. With a horizontal nature of unevenness, if the rim shifts to the right side into four parts: two of them look at the left flange, and two at the right flange, the left nipples are screwed ¼ turn and similarly, ¼ turn, the nipples are loosened from the right side. If this method did not help to get rid of the unevenness, then you need to find the most uneven place on the left and tighten it.

To correct vertical irregularities, it is necessary to find the place of the rim as far from the hub as possible. This is required to maximize the tension of the part in that place, which will improve the parameters of wheel rigidity and additionally move the rim to the hub.

In addition, when tensioning the spare parts, they are also used to seat them. To this end, forcefully press on the spokes where they intersect, then turn the wheel and repeat the procedure in order to shrink all the spare parts in this way. Usually, when the procedure is successfully carried out, the spokes emit characteristic sounds.

Often, it is better to trust a professional to replace and tension spokes on a bicycle in order to be sure of the result. Unfortunately, sometimes improper repairs can only exacerbate problems and even lead to "eight" wheels, so if you have the slightest doubt, it is better to give the rover to the bike workshop.

Another type of bicycle wheel deformation is the egg type. In this case, the wheel takes on an egg-shaped shape, flattening vertically. Very often this type of deformation is combined with an eight. The situation can be corrected by tightening the knitting needles on both sides. When performing manipulations, you need to ensure that the knitting needles are not too loose or overtightened.

EIGHT BIKE WHEELS - LETTING THE EXACT PLACE

To determine the exact place of the deformation, it is necessary to turn the bike with the wheels upward. Next, you need to rotate the problem wheel, gradually bringing the chalk or marker to the spinning rim. Where there is a figure eight, the crayon or marker will touch the rim. These places should be noted. This is how you can identify the problem area - the hearth of the eight. How to tell if your wheel is okay. Simply place the bike upside down on the saddle and handlebars with the wheels up. Spin the problematic wheel, as you think, (spin it in the sense of rotating it around its axis) and check it first by eye. If everything is in order with the wheel, then it will rotate around the axis absolutely evenly. If there is a figure eight, then it should be visible to the naked eye, or more often something like the beating of a wheel in a certain place. It is necessary to look at the wheel in profile and in face, since the bending of the wheel can occur in different directions.

Types of bends that are possible in principle:

The most common type of defects is wheel eight,

The eight wheel tilted to the left, the dotted line shows how it should be

· Egg bending is also common. This is when the wheel loses its circle shape and begins to resemble an egg,

The wheel is curved like an egg. The dotted line shows how it should be

· Bending of the umbrella type. Usually it is associated with a factory defect, it is better in this case to contact a specialist. Here I will not analyze how to fix it. This bending is due to the uneven placement of the wheel in the grooves of the fork.

Umbrella curvature. Dotted line as it should be

How defects can form and why

There is a widespread belief that the wheel can change its shape if you do not ride carefully, when driving over bumps or during unsuccessful jumps. This is all true. That is, all this, of course, affects the rapid wear and tear. But that's not the only reason a wheel can break. When the cyclist sits on the bike, the wheels are already loaded in the vertical direction. Further, when braking at speeds, the wheels can deform, forming eights. When maneuvering (cornering) in any direction and hard braking. In general, I think you can not explain what sloppy driving is, you yourself understand everything perfectly. So caring for your bike can put off the problem, but over time you will come back to it anyway. Even if you ride very carefully on a good road, such is the specificity of a bicycle.

Of course, everything still depends to a large extent on the wheel rim itself, on its physical characteristics. Therefore, when buying a bicycle, you need to pay the seller's attention to such things, wondering how long the wheels can last, how they react to the deformations described above. So on cheap bicycles, the rims are correspondingly less strong. And various bends (egg and eights) of the wheels can form much earlier than on their more expensive and high-quality counterparts.
In general, how the problem can arise, I think you already understood. So let's get straight to how to solve the problem and align your wheel.

What tools we may need to fix defects So, in order to fix your wheel, you may need:

Spoke key

Crayon or something that can draw on the rim of the wheel (water marker)

· Universal plastic assemblies for dismantling bicycle tires.

We need the spoke wrench to loosen and tighten the wheel spokes. I must say right away that you won't have to tighten up much. You will gradually tighten the knitting needles and check the results right there.

General algorithm for eliminating problems with a deformed wheel

We determine the general algorithm in which specific place the figure eight begins and where it ends (we select the lesion focus). The next step is to find the center needle in the figure eight and work with it. If our figure eight falls to the left side, select the spoke on the opposite side and pull it up a distance of less than one turn of the spoke key. Then we take two adjacent knitting needles, these will be knitting needles on the opposite side of the previous knitting needle, weaken them by the number of revolutions a little less (for example, 2 times less) than we tightened the previous knitting needle. And so on until full straightening. That is, the next two knitting needles (they will be placed already on the opposite side) we are already tightening even weaker than the very first knitting needle. As you move away from the central spoke (lesion focus), the number of revolutions, respectively, will also decrease gradually.

If the figure eight is small by three needles

So, again, how do you fix a figure eight on a bike? To fix the wheel, we will select a section where there is an eight, and along the length of this entire section, we loosen and tighten the spokes going one after the other. On one side of the wheel we loosen the spokes, on the other we tighten. When the required operations have been completed with all the spokes, we rotate the wheel again and see the correct movement of the wheel around the axis. If it becomes worse, return the knitting needles to their previous place and make the tightening-weakening less. Thus, the skew in one direction leading to the figure eight will gradually level out. In order to perfectly align the figure eight, you will have to patiently and painstakingly perform all the above actions slowly (that is, we twist it a little).

The larger eight is treated in the same way as the small

The wheel is flattened by an egg, the straightening algorithm is slightly different. We only pull up the right side

An egg-on-wheel defect occurs most often due to unsuccessful landings. It flattens strictly vertically. Quite often, an egg in combination with an eight is found on the wheel. So having corrected one, do not forget to correct the other. Unlike the figure eight, an egg-type defect is treated by pulling the knitting needles on both sides. We also identify the lesion and gradually, as shown in the picture above, we need to straighten the egg by pulling the knitting needles. It will be said below, but it is necessary to ensure that all the needles are not overtightened or, on the contrary, too loose.

How to straighten a wheel in practice and how to determine exactly where the figure eight of a bicycle wheel goes

How to determine exactly where the eight passes. Masters who have gotten their hands on in this matter can fix the problem without improvised means (crayons and other things). You will have to edit the wheel first using a crayon. We spin (rotate) the wheel and gradually bring the chalk to the rim of the wheel rotating in the axle. In those places where there is an eight, the chalk will touch the rim and scribble serifs on it. So you define an eight for yourself.

I saw another great option on how to straighten a figure eight on a bicycle wheel in one video. We take ear sticks. On both sides of the wheel we have front fork stays. We attach ear sticks to these feathers on the scotch tape from both sides and, just like with a crayon, rotating the wheel, gradually bring the ear sticks to the wheel rim and mark the places where they begin to clearly touch the rim with chalk. Quite a convenient option, since it can be quite problematic to hold the chalk on the weight. If your wheel is flattened like an egg, that is, it has lost its perfectly round shape, we do everything the same as for the figure eight, only we just bring the chalk from the outside of the rim where the tire with the camera should be.

As you can see from the above, eliminating the figure eight on a bicycle is not a very difficult process, and the best part is available to everyone. The only thing I want to add is that when you have done all the work on aligning the figure eight on the bike, be sure to check all the other spokes. What shouldn't be? The needles should not be loose or overtightened. Freely dangling spokes can break, so carefully tighten them and repeat the wheel adjustment again. If the spokes are too tight they can pierce the pin or wheel rim. Craftsmen advise if you have tuned the wheel and everything suits you, but some spokes stick out from the wheel rim, you can sharpen them, for example, with a file, so as not to pierce the camera.

There is another method for determining the focus of the figure eight using ordinary ear sticks, adhesive tape and a marker. To identify the problem area of ​​the rim, you need to stick the ear sticks with adhesive tape on the feathers of the front fork on both sides. The places where the ear sticks will come into contact with the rotating rim are problem areas... This is where it will be necessary to tighten or loosen the spokes in accordance with the algorithm described above.

Elimination of the figure eight defect is a simple process, but troublesome, you can cope with it yourself without the help of a specialized specialist. This method is versatile and is suitable for different types of bicycles.

Important: after eliminating the defect, you need to mandatory check the tightness of all the spokes of the problem rim. This will help you avoid unexpected accidents on the road.

Friends! Probably, this is not exactly the Twentysix format, but I decided to post this small guide from the magazine here, so that everyone has the opportunity to evaluate and discuss the format of the permanent "Workshop" column. Also because, in the near future, we will try to carry out "import substitution" in relation to this heading by one of the domestic bicycle workshops.

So, the motto of the article: “Self-matching will certainly make you related to the bike. From you - skill and patience. From Ryder - step-by-step instructions. "

1. To assemble a wheel (with a camera), we need: a wheel centering machine, an umbrella gauge, a vernier caliper, a hammer, a blunt punch, a screwdriver, a folding rule, a suitable spoke wrench of approximately 3.2 mm for standard square nipples.

2. First, we measure the effective diameter of the ERD rim: carefully measure the inner diameter of the rim and add the thickness of the rim wall. We will need this figure to calculate the length of the knitting needles.

3. Now we will measure the diameter (circumference) of the location (centers) of the spoke holes of the hub. Please note that the diameter of this circle can be different for each flange. And in most cases, the front and rear hubs differ in this measure.

4. We issue a "passport" for each sleeve. We enter into it the diameters of the location of the spoke holes. Then we measure the length of the hub axle (in this case, 142 mm). Divide this number in half and mark the middle of the sleeve. Now, having positioned the sleeve on the sheet according to the picture, we measure the distance from its middle to each of the flanges (FD) using a vernier caliper. In our case, these are 33 and 20 mm. Note that due to the mounting of the brake rotor, the front hubs are also asymmetrical.

5. We recommend using one of the online calculators to calculate the length of the knitting needles. For example, the spoke length calculator on the DT Swiss website.
Translation of terms for the calculator: Front wheel - front wheel; Rear wheel - rear wheel; Rim Diameter / ERD - type of rim and / or ERD (see above); Hub - bushing; Pitch circle diameter - PCD (see above); Flange distance - FD (see above); Ø of spoke hole - diameter of the spoke hole; No. of spokes - the number of spokes; No. of intersections - the number of intersections (type of spacing, in this case - three); Nipple - nipple type; Spoke length (precise) - the exact length of the spoke; rounded - rounded length.

6. We pass the first spoke through any spoke hole in the hub flange from the inside from the rotor side and fix the spoke with a nipple in the second spoke hole of the rim from the hole for the camera nipple (bottom photo).

8. Having passed the spoke through the hole in the hub flange (step 6), insert its end into the hole in the rim, leaving three free holes between the adjacent spokes. We fix with nipples. That is, there must be a spoke in every fourth hole.

9. Now we bring the spokes to their working position: while holding the rim with one hand, we rotate the sleeve in the opposite direction of movement (see photo). The spokes must enter the rim at an obtuse angle.

10. Finishing the rotor side lacing. To do this, thread the next eight spokes through the remaining holes of the same sleeve flange from the opposite (outer) side.

11. Turning the loose knitting needle in the direction of rotation of the sleeve (see step 9), draw it behind the two nearest fixed knitting needles and in front of the third. Then, as shown in the photo, we thread this spoke into the middle of the three free holes on the rim and secure it with a nipple. We do the same with all the other knitting needles.

12. The thickened (end) part of the spoke nipples has splines. Having inserted a screwdriver or a socket wrench for the spokes into the slot (see photo), we screw the nipple onto the spoke for two or three turns, without using force.

13. Now we pass the first "reference-spoke" (not to be confused with the "leading") through the hole of the second flange from the inside. Before that, we turn the wheel so that the tire nipple is at the top point. Focusing on the rim hole closest to the nipple in the direction of travel of the bicycle (on the left), we find the corresponding hole on the hub flange, also located in the direction of travel (see photo). We fix the knitting needle in this position. So there will be no spoke intersection opposite the bus nipple, interfering with the pump connection.

14. Insert the next spoke into the nearest flange hole to the left of the spoke - landmark. We pass this knitting needle into the hole from the outside, so that its head looks outward from the sleeve.

15. The remaining seven spokes are threaded into every second hole in the flange (do not insert into the rim yet). At the same time, we make sure that the needle does not fall into the honey triangle with the needles of the other side, but remains free. Throw over third spoke from the right from the reference spoke through it from the outside and insert it into the nearest free hole from the tire nipple to the left (the principle "behind, behind, in front, fix"). The remaining spokes are sequentially inserted into every fourth hole in the rim so that they do not intersect with other spokes, and secure with nipples.

16. Thread the remaining eight knitting needles in the same sequence from the inside of the flange into the free holes. Then they will need to be inserted into the free holes in the rim and secured.

17. Since all the other spokes are already secured, there is little room to maneuver. Therefore, we take each of the last spokes with both hands and insert it into the corresponding hole in the rim, observing the pattern of three intersections "back, back, front" and the same angles of intersection of the spokes.

18. Now that we have a full umbrella formed, screw the nipples deeper onto each spoke until the entire thread is out of sight - but no further!

19. Now we fix the wheel in the centering (straightening) machine. So that the wheel centering line does not deviate to one side, we check that it is firmly fixed in the machine “fork” mountings. Then, starting from the tire nipple, tighten all the short spokes of the wheel one full turn. On the front wheel, this will be the left side in the direction of travel of the bike, and on the rear wheel, this will be the right side (transmission side). Then we move on to the knitting needles of the opposite side.

20. It is necessary to exclude friction of the spoke heads on the holes during the vibrations of the spokes. To do this, by careful blows using a hammer and a blunt punch, align the head of each spoke with the flange surface.

21. We tighten the knitting needles by about a couple of turns in the sequence indicated above (first on the “short” side, then on the side of the long knitting needles). We remove the wheel from the machine and install the umbrella gauge on the end of the wheel hub from the side of the short spokes and on the rim on both sides. Using the adjusting wheel, we adjust the length of the umbrella meter axis in such a way as to eliminate the gaps at these three points (rim sides on the right and left, the end of the sleeve). Then we put the umbrella gauge on the opposite side of the wheel (with long spokes).

22. If the rim is not equidistant from the hub, tighten all the spoke nipples on the corresponding side of the flange half a turn. The adjustment should always be directed towards the long needles. We check the result of broaching by re-installing the umbrella gauge on the wheel and aligning it.

23. We bring together both probes of the wheel straightener and bring them to the rim until one of the probes starts to cling to the rim. To straighten the ellipse, the nipples are always tightened only a quarter of a turn. The same number of knitting needles is always pulled up on the left and right.

24. Mark the area of ​​radial beating with white tape. Pull up the spokes (clockwise to the outside of the rim) a quarter turn. And, if the beating section covers only five knitting needles, we slightly tighten the sixth too, so as not to make an eight.

25. The figure eight is indicated by the lateral beating of the rim on the machine probe. To straighten it, slightly loosen the nipples on the beating side and tighten the nipples on the opposite side until the rim stops scratching the probe with a scratch.

26. Excessive tension can damage both the hub and the rim. To check the tension, squeeze the two crossed knitting needles with medium force. The intersection point must not move more than one centimeter.

27. After all broaches, the concentricity of the wheel must be checked again. Straighten if necessary. Just make sure not to overtighten the knitting needles.

28. To prevent the appearance of eights and ellipses, the wheel should be “crimped” after lacing. We set the wheel on a solid stand and carefully lean on it with our weight, after which we again check it for concentricity and runout.