Do-it-yourself baubles. Technique for making homemade lures

Do you want to learn how to make spoons for pike and perch with your own hands? Well, some people like to buy beautiful lures from fishing shops, keep track of new releases and replenish their collections. Expensive commercial spinners, for the most part, have good catchability, and some of them are really very catchable. Here are examples of such spinners for and for. But, unfortunately, it often happens that expensive branded spinners turn out to be completely useless and no wiring helps to catch at least a small predator.

With homemade spinners, too, everything is not always smooth. Each hand-made spoon, even according to a template, is still unique and the slightest deviation leads to a change in its game. Seemingly identical-looking home-made spinners can behave differently in the water and, accordingly, bring different results. Sometimes you get very good spinners, which cannot be compared with the most vaunted branded ones, but for such a result it is worth trying and studying the structure of the spinners that are sold in the store. Although who knows, maybe you will be lucky and your first hand-made spoon will be the most catchy.

There are two options for how to make a spoon with your own hands:

Manufacturing from ready-made elements (buy "spare parts" from a spoon and collect spoons of different colors and shapes).
Complete production of baubles from scratch.

The first method, of course, is easier, but also very interesting. You have everything for making your own spoon, and then only your imagination works.

The second method requires much more effort and time. For this method, you will need a certain tool and needlework skills. If you have all this, then you should not have any problems with making a spoon for pike, perch or other predator.

DIY spoons for pike and perch from ready-made elements

Let's talk about homemade turntables that we will make from pre-purchased items. I had great perch and small pike, chubs and ides for such spinners. One lure is made for 10 minutes and the assembly process is not difficult.

To get started, you need to prepare the following minimal set of tools and blanks:

round nose pliers;
nippers;
thin rigid wire;
petals for turntables;
drop-shaped weights;
splitters (cone-shaped elements that are placed between the petal and the weight);
friction bearings (small spacer beads between the petal and the splitter);
plumage tees.

Making spoons

You can choose different shapes and colors of spoons petals, hook feathers, weight of a sinker or add decorative elements, thereby improving the catchability of your own spoons.

DIY lures for catching pike and perch from ready-made video elements

Spoon for pike and perch with your own hands from scratch

Making spinners with your own hands from scratch is, of course, more difficult than from purchased items. But for those who love handicraft, this activity is very funny and interesting, so time flies by while making spoons for perch and pike. Moreover, the manufacturing method that I will show is very easy to perform, and the catching power of the spoon is very good. But for this you need a mini workshop. Let's figure out how and from what you can make a catchy spoon for a predator.

But first, prepare the following necessary tools and blanks:

table fork (preferably Soviet);
hacksaw for metal;
vice;
pliers;
drill;
hammer;
grinding wheel;
tees;
swivel;
winding rings for tees fastening tees and under the fishing line.

Well, the manufacturing process itself is quite simple, let's see.

The process of making baubles with your own hands at home

First, we need a fork. The usual, well-known, table fork.
Now, with the help of a hacksaw for metal, we cut off the part we need to make the spoon, namely the edge of the handle. About 8-12 centimeters.
After we have cut off the necessary workpiece, it is necessary to slightly grind it on a grinding wheel, round it off and remove sharp edges.
Now it is necessary to puncture the holes, into which we will then pass the through-rings.
Then, with a 2.0-2.5 drill, we drill holes in our workpiece.
Our blank is almost ready, but we need to change its shape a little to make its play more interesting and attract fish. To do this, we need to clamp one edge of the workpiece in a vice, take the other edge with pliers and turn it slightly so that the spoon takes on a helical shape.
We have completed the procurement. Now it remains to attach the pass rings on both sides of our spinner and on the side where the fishing line or leash will be attached - a swivel.

Both domestic and foreign lures for lure are presented in abundance in fishing shops. However, such designs do not always cope with the tasks assigned to them, and their catchability leaves much to be desired.

Therefore, many anglers either modify the spinners, or start making them on their own.

To achieve maximum similarity, such a spoon can be colored in a special way: take a piece of a mosquito net, attach it to the metal and paint the structure from a spray can.

When the net is removed, the pattern left on the spoon looks like shiny fish scales.

A thin metal tube is cut on both sides so that one cut is much sharper. From the sharp end, a hole is made for a tee, which is attached through a ring, from a blunt end, a hole for a fishing line, which is also fixed with a winding ring.

The edges are cleaned, the metal is painted: then what your heart desires, you can draw stripes and dots, you can use color contrast, you can paint the bait in a single color. A bright cambric is usually worn on the hook or wrapped around it with a red woolen thread.

The design can be easily complicated by making several components. During the posting, such a bait plays for all five points.

A corrugated pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a length of 8-10 cm is cut lengthwise into three equal parts.

With the help of an emery wheel, a blank is made from each piece in the form of an elongated drop. On the concave side, acid treatment is performed (to etch the metal) and molten tin is added to make it heavier. The optimal weight of the corrugated board is 20 grams.

It remains only to drill two holes, and fix the fishing line and tee through the winding rings - ready.

The petals for the turntable are cut out of the tin using scissors. Sheet metal is also suitable - copper, brass - 0.1-0.6 mm thick. A hole is drilled at the top. To shape the petal, it is placed on a rubber elastic base, and the metal is bent by hitting a ball from the bearing.

To simplify the task, you can take any metal can-cylinder - for example, from under canned food, and cut an oval petal out of it: you can immediately see that such a petal has the bulge we need.

A hole is drilled in the top corner into which a fishing line or thread is threaded to hang the petal. The diameter should be relatively large: at least twice the diameter of the bar. This part only needs to be sanded and painted or varnished; you can also stick on pieces of bright film.

The next part is the pivot. For its manufacture, steel wire is used, one end of which is bent in the form of a loop, to which.

Beads (preferably lead) and a petal are put on the axial rod. The upper part of the rod is bent, a winding ring is put on it, to which the load is attached - so that a front-loaded spoon is obtained.

For greater stability of the game, the petal is put on the rod through a clamp, such as in the photo on the left.

Beer cap bait

In order to make a lure from a metal beer lid, first of all, you need to make two holes: they should be located opposite each other, in the bent part of the lid.

We put rings in the holes, and put several lead balls inside the cork (hunting shot is suitable), after which we squeeze the cork with pliers.

The task of the balls is not only to load the spoon, but also to create noise and sounds that attract predators.

from the most common beer cork it is distinguished, nevertheless, by good catchability indicators.

Checking will not hurt

The spoon can be beautifully colored, well processed, but, as we remember, the important thing is how much it is able to attract a predator. This means that she must play well. Therefore, one of the important stages in the production of artificial baits is checking the performance of the product.

The size of the bathroom in order to evaluate the game of the bait is not enough, but such a test will already give at least approximate data on the movement of our product. After that, you can already make the necessary adjustments and go out into the big water.

The spoon is easy to use, interesting for a predator, and its manufacture requires minimal financial investments from the angler, which determines the high attractiveness of a handmade bait. Moreover, it is not forbidden to make your own adjustments to the design, achieving the best catchability. Therefore, the fisherman, homemade bait which showed herself in the best possible way and brought serious trophies, she gets incomparable pleasure.

Whatever the range of fishing shops, scarce before or plentiful now, inquisitive fishermen - craftsmen did, do, and I think they will always make homemade accessories for fishing... Such a fisherman will fall under the arms of some piece of iron, twist it in his hands, twirl it, you see, and adapt it to his hobby.

When working on the installation of plumbing equipment, there are always cuts of a water supply stainless corrugated pipe 3/4 "(internal ǿ20mm), with a length of 100 to 200mm. Having turned the completely unnecessary shiny glands in my hands, I begin to think - if ǿ20, then the circumference is about 60mm, and dividing into three: it turns out - three spoons with a width of about 20mm, quite a suitable size. Why not try? Moreover, it is not difficult at all. It turns out - good, but it does not work out - it's not a pity. But for some reason, I really wanted to try to adapt These beautiful pieces of iron. ”On fire and that's it!

Bream, in the upper reaches of the Moskva River, this year did not immediately respond to bait. The width of the river in this place is 50-60 meters, the depth is about 1.5 meters. You used to sit for three hours until the flock came up. And on one of these days, in order not to sit idly by, after massive feeding, he took off his favorite "universal fishing rod" (see the magazine "Rybolov No. 5 for 2007) (" Small fishing rod for big fish"- in the blog) a float and a leash, hooked on a" corrugated "spoon, and walked to the left of the creek to test the homemade product.

To my enthusiastic surprise, at the very first wiring, a pike of eight hundred grams sat on the tee of the spoon.

Having photographed it for the "history" from different angles, made a second cast and grabbed an obvious undersized spoon, which safely, just as unexpectedly, came down. Having retreated to the left another twenty steps, he continued the series of casts. On the eighth cast, the pike took more than a kilo. Further rinsing of the spoon, positive result did not bring. Quietly (so as not to scare away the gathered fish), he returned to the lured place, took off the spoon, put the leash, float in place, strung a worm and threw the tackle on the bream. Ten minutes later, a pretty, bream bite, I hooked, and a small, rather small scavenger fluttered on the hook. Okay, let's see what happens next? And then there was a hook, and, having scared off all the fish, dragged a one and a half meter log to the shore. It is pointless to sit out. Re-equipping again float rod in spinning (just writing it takes longer than doing it - ten seconds and that's it!). Now I’m going to the right of the backwater about twenty paces. Believe it or not, on the very first cast, the pike is over a kilogram again! The breeders, observing what was happening from the opposite bank, gathered opposite, discussing something vividly. Having finished a series of combing casts from this place, he retreated to the right another twenty steps. Here we got a "lace" that unfortunately swallowed the spoon too deeply. With such damage to the gills, letting go of it is pointless. After blushing a little more, he returned to his backwater. There were no bites. Rain froze. We must fold.

Bream fishing failed. But the tests of the new home-made spinner passed with complete triumph! In principle, I was pleased. The premonitions about the corrugated tube came true. The spinner game turned out to be attractive, similar to the Castmaster, only the amplitude of the oscillations is softer. It floats well with the flow, does not hurry to fall to the bottom. When conducting against the current, it does not enter a spin and does not rush to the surface. If I put “Atom” or “Cleo Little” the result could be the same. I cannot yet say that this lure is better than others, but that it perfectly catches fish - that's for sure. Five bites for a morning fishing trip is not at all bad result for a reservoir with strong fishing pressure. The Moscow region is not Akhtuba at all.

Once the tests were successful, now I will briefly tell my colleagues how to make such a spoon. In short, because it's very easy! We take a tube ǿ20mm, length 8cm. With a cut-off wheel, 1.1 mm thick, we cut it lengthwise into three equal parts. The tube is thin-walled, so with your fingers we make an S-shaped bend.

On the emery wheel, we give each workpiece the shape of an elongated drop.

We etch the concave side with phosphoric acid and fill it with tin (using a conventional soldering iron) to a weight of 18-20g.

After the final processing, the spoon turns out to be 7cm long and about 2cm wide. We drill holes ǿ2.5mm, fasten tees through the winding rings. Everything! From one small piece of a corrugated tube, as many as three unusually catchy spoons turned out! Well, if you are not connected with plumbing, then I think there are only 10 cm of pipes in the construction market, and they will cut you off from a 50-meter bay for free.

And yet, ladies and gentlemen, colleagues. The tees that you attach to the spoons should stick to your fingers like a burr. If not, then they need to be sharpened or replaced. All authors write about this, but I remind you again, because in practice I see: "Everything that they write is not for us." Although fish are better when caught with blunt hooks. Steel or tungsten leads are required! Enough to equip pikes with "piercings"! Fish die from such "decorations".

Any talk that a steel leash interferes with the game of the bait or that a fish sees it is pure lies. On the Aglia Long 1+ with a tungsten leash, I caught pikes, chubs, asps, and perches. They don't care what leash you have, what thickness and color of the fishing line. For example, I like the yellow one, because you can always see where the bait is.

A few words about the tackle:

telescopic spinning rod: Schimano Catana 2.70 m long, test 15-40;
reel: Shimano Sustain 4000 FB;
fishing line: 0.30 yellow, lure leash: 6kg tungsten;
float: sliding 3.5 g. with a carabiner; leash: braid 0.1, hook No. 14.

Encouraged by the success of the "corrugation", I made a non-hook. When the score was 4 - 0 (four bites, 0 result) he refused this idea. If the lure doesn't catch the grass, it doesn't catch the fish either!

Rule: - Nobody canceled the first throw "under the feet"! Often, watching other spinning players, it becomes incomprehensible: if they came to fish, or compete: who will throw their "crap" further. Moving, to the right or to the left, make sure that points 5, 6, 7 overlap with 8, 9, 10, then your spoon will not pass unnoticed by the fish, and if the grip does not occur, you can safely move on to the next section. There is no longer an active predator in this section of the reservoir. But there are no rules without exception. Sometimes you have to repeat this alternation until three times to lure the pike into a bite. That's why she is fishing, in order to figure it out in time, she takes the fish from the approach or it is necessary to tease.

Not all of the commercially available ones are catchy. The reason for this is most often a negligent approach in the production of manufactured models of spinners. Such negligence leads to the fact that over time, with repeated and careless copying, it changes so much that it has nothing to do with its original good sample. Such distorted spoons, not consistent in thickness and shape, and even having the wrong equipment, do not meet their purpose and cannot serve as bait. In the best case, the predatory fish remains indifferent to such baits, and in the worst case, it runs away from them. In addition, it is often necessary to improve the commercial lure samples for specific fishing conditions.

Experienced fishermen who use spinners for fishing (including home-made ones) can tell about frequent cases of their breakage due to hooks. Indeed, as a rule, there is only one option in this case: to take as close to the spoon as possible and pull it until it comes off, which naturally leads to the loss of the spoon. And it can be very disappointing if the lost spoon was made with your own hands at home, and had a good "catchability". In order to reduce the percentage of lost lures, you need to slightly improve their design as described and shown. on the drawing of a homemade spinner below.

There are several ways to make loaded spinners. The simplest is to pour lead on the inside of the petal. But the spoon has an untidy look. Better spinners cast in special molds. For this they use gypsum, cement, graphite (the inner surface of the latter is metallized with copper), metal forms.

Materials for making lures

For the manufacture of lures, sheet metal with a thickness of 0.5-3.5 mm is most often used.

The best metal for making spinners is copper and its alloys: brass, tempah (golden) and cupronickel (silver-white). Tombak and cupronickel are especially good.

In addition, bimetal, which is soft iron covered with a layer of copper, less often tin and zinc, can be successfully used.

Elastic stainless steels are less suitable. Soft varieties are perfectly acceptable, but require processing. At an annealing temperature of 200-250 ° C, stainless steel acquires a fairly diverse color.

Aluminum and its alloys are unsuitable materials due to their lightness.

For casting lures, it is most advantageous to use lead, adding tin or zinc to it if necessary. First, lead is poured into the mold, and then, when the lead has cooled, tin, or vice versa. To increase the strength of the junction, the mold is additionally heated to the melting point of lead. Because lead lures tarnish quickly, there are the following surface finishes.

The easiest way is to paint a lure under the "gold" or "silver" so-called "silver". On sale there are sets with varnish and bags with bronze or aluminum powder; after painting, it is advisable to sprinkle the spoon with mica crumbs.

Another method consists in galvanic tinning with the composition (in grams per liter of water): tin sulfate - 40-60 g / l, sulfuric acid - 45-90 g / l. First, tin sulfate is diluted in acidified water, and then the rest of the acid is added. Processing is carried out at room temperature of the solution. Power supply: flat or two round batteries for a flashlight; plus is a tin plate, minus is a bait.

There are other techniques for finishing the surface of lures.

Spinner thickness

The thickness of the spoon is closely related to its size and purpose. The thicker the spoon is, the less mobile it is and vice versa. Thin spinners have easy mobility, while thick spinners have good stable running.

The division of spinners into light, medium and heavy is determined by the degree of their mobility, depending on the thickness and regardless of their weight.

As already mentioned, the thickness of the spoon is closely related to its size and stamping shape. Therefore, a change in the thickness, although it is permissible, should be approached with great caution, since with a change in the thickness of the spoon, the nature of its play also changes.

It is not recommended to use spoons with a thickness of less than 0.5 mm, as very thin spoons, especially small ones, work unreliable and often "stick", that is, do not give a game, and large and thin ones sail strongly when casting. Likewise, small but thick spoons do not work well, and large and thick ones will be too heavy to cast.

If it is necessary to have spinners weighing 40-45 g, their thickness should be in the range of 2.2-2.3 mm. It is best to take the thickness of the spoons from a well-proven sample. If there is a good sample of a spoon and it is desirable to build the same spoon, but of a larger or smaller size, then their thickness should be taken in direct proportion to the area, that is, how many times the area of one spoon is smaller than the other, by the same amount and its thickness should be smaller. In the case of using a dissimilar material, an amendment is made to the thickness of the spoon: how many times the specific gravity of one metal is less than the other, the same time the thickness of the spoon should be greater and vice versa. If this rule is not followed, the spinners will differ in the degree of ease of their play.

The procedure for making homemade baubles with your own hands

It is necessary to remove from a large oscillating spoon that connects the spoon with a tee. Tie the tee with a fishing line with a smaller diameter than the main line to the second winding ring. Attach the shank of the tee with a soft copper wire (0.4-0.7 mm in diameter) to the spoon through the lower hole for the winding ring. Bite off the excess ends of the wire and dilute a little. The specified mount will not affect the game of the bait and will reliably ensure the integrity of the "tee - bait" structure during casts and small efforts during hooks for small and not very strong obstacles on the bottom, and at the same time, in the case of a "dead" hook, it will save the bait, losing only a tee.

You can read more about the bait rigging in the article "B ladder rigging"

Characteristics	Spinning type	Fish caught
Characteristics	Spinning type	Pike	zander	perch
Line diameter, mm:	Inertial Inertialess

basic (leash)	Inertial Inertialess

When using lines and leads according to this table, the margin of safety of the main line in comparison with the lead is on average 25-30%. This is quite enough to prevent the loss of the spinner during the hooks, having lost only the tee.

Homemade Babbitt Oscillating Spoons

Stamp spinning lures at home it is problematic, for this, at least, you will need a press. Cast lures made of lead are less difficult to manufacture, but they require electroplating with copper or other metal to create the necessary rigidity, which is also impossible without the appropriate equipment. In addition, such spinners are heavier than the factory ones and therefore are not suitable for light spinning reels.

Nevertheless, at home, you can make simple cast homemade lures from babbitt - an antifriction alloy based on tin or lead, designed for use in plain bearings. Babbitt spinners are cast in the same way as from lead, and a factory spinner or plasticine imitation of any design is taken for the model. The mold for casting a spoon is made of gypsum (withstands up to 50 casts) or cement (M400-M600, withstands several hundred casts). The surface of the finished product requires only minor processing and grinding.

How to make a homemade bait from babbit

Take (or glue) a cardboard box 6-7 cm high (the dimensions of the box should exceed the dimensions of the model by 1-2 cm).
Pour a solution of gypsum or cement into the box up to half (consistency like sour cream).
Cover the model with a thin layer of Vaseline and gently lower it into the solution so that it lies at the same distance from the edges of the box (in the factory spoon, you must first cover the holes with plasticine). By lightly tapping on the box, immerse the model in the solution to the desired depth.
After the slurry has partially hardened (25-35 minutes for plaster and 24 hours for cement), remove the slurry from the model surface.
After complete hardening (after 2 hours - for gypsum or 3 days - for cement), lubricate the upper surface of the mold and model with a thin layer of Vaseline, then pour a new portion of the solution to the top of the box.
After the final hardening of the mortar, separate the mold, remove the model, and file a channel for casting (sprue) and air outlet in each half.
Dry the mold well (7-10 days), otherwise, during casting, the process of vaporization and metal eruption through the sprue may begin in it.
Melt babbitt in a container with a narrow "spout" (in a tablespoon of aluminum), remove carbon deposits during the melting process and lighten the surface, periodically adding ammonia powder. Try to prevent the babbitt from burning out (pronounced blue color of the melt), due to which the product turns out to be fragile. It is preferable to use babbitt-83, in which 83% is pure tin, but it does not tarnish and always has a silvery tint.
Pour the melt into the mold, shaking it slightly so that the babbitt spreads evenly, and remove the finished spinners after cooling. In the resulting castings, drill holes for the winding rings. Smooth out irregularities on the cast spoon with a sandpaper or a file.

Lures made in this way usually do not require silvering, but if the homemade baubles have a darkish color, they can be silvering.

You will get a silvery bauble if you immediately pour molten babbit into the mold. If you keep it on fire a little longer, it will turn golden, and the spoon will take on this shade. Keep it on fire even longer, and you will see how the babbitt turns blue; the baubles will be of a bluish-olive tone. A sinker is not needed for such a spoon, it can be quietly thrown "under the nose" of a perch or pike.

Oscillating baubles "Leningradka"

According to the dimensions indicated in the figure, cut out a workpiece from sheet metal 3 mm thick, make two shaped cuts A and B in it, up to 4 mm deep. After that, stepping back 20 mm from the head part, grind off the workpiece on an emery wheel along its entire rest surface so that its thickness to the tail part reaches 1 mm. Further bend the workpiece, as shown in the figure, equip with winding rings, a hook.

In addition to the holes in the head and tail, it is necessary to punch a hole in the protrusion of the upper figured cutout (the diameter of all holes is 1.5-2 mm). It happens that it is useful to equip the spoon with an additional hook - then it is attached at the curly cutout.

For fishing at a depth of 1.5-2 m, the assembled weight of the spoon should not exceed 32-36 g.

Due to the bending of the spoon and the shift of the center of gravity to its head, the game of such a bait attracts a predator. If, however, red hairs are strengthened on the tee and in the hole of the upper curly cutout, then they do not allow the spoon to quickly sink to the bottom, which allows the spoon to be driven slowly at the desired depth.

Good homemade spoon

V. Sadikov offered the following homemade spoon. New in it is not so much in the spoon as in the hook (it is homemade, there are no such things on sale). It is made from a needle or steel wire.

The hook of this configuration (Fig. 1) is hardly noticeable and chains. The lure is easily caught by the fish. Put on a hook and pressed with an insulating tube (Fig. 2), the fish-eye film is hardly noticeable and does not interfere with the game of the spinner. The hook is bent directly from the end of the spoon or released by 2-4 millimeters. The neck with the sting is retracted at an angle of 15-20 degrees. The nape of the hook also has a characteristic shape (Fig. 3). For a large spoon, you can also use a factory hook with a barb, after letting it go over the fire and giving it the desired shape.

All sizes of the spoon are reduced in proportion to its length.

Hooks for such spinners are made from sewing needles. They can withstand large fish, do not unbend, do not break, are unobtrusive, very sharp, and make it easy to shoot fish, which is important in the cold.

To make such hooks, you need to have steel sewing needles of different numbers:

for medium-sized perch, roach, grayling - No. 3-4, sometimes even No. 2;
for large fish(whitefish, large perch, ide, etc.) - No. 5-6.

The needles should be driven, their length does not matter. Hooks are made using small pliers, one of the planes of which is rounded off by 2-3 mm. A special bending from the eyelet of a thick needle driven into a wooden handle is also suitable for this. The needles are annealed in the flame of a match or candle. Annealing is started near the thick end of the needle and the tarnishing color is observed. Annealing is stopped at a time when the blue stripe appearing upon heating approaches the thin tip of the needle.

After that, the tip of the needle is clamped with tweezers by the amount of the required length of the sting and bend around their flat antennae. With the rounded side of the tweezers, the forend is somewhat bent and a hook blank is obtained. Then, along the desired length of the hook, the hook ring is bent around the rounded tendril of the tweezers, which should be perpendicular to its plane. The fold is made first in the direction opposite to the future ringlet, and then they are completely bend around it.

It is very important to configure the hook exactly as shown in the picture, otherwise it will not work well. It is imperative to tie these hooks with the tip up, so that the fishing line is located at right angles to the hook.

A drawing of a homemade spinner "Norvega"

The shape of the "Norwegian" resembles an elongated pear. The upper half of the spoon is flat (without bending), the lower half is slightly curved both in the longitudinal and transverse directions. Peculiarity lateral bending lies in the fact that at first only its edges are bent at the spoon - the back remains flat. The nature of the transverse bend is clearly visible in figure a, where the cross-sections of the spoon are given every 5 mm. The dashed line in this figure indicates the beginning of the bend in the edges of the spoon. The bending of the edges starts at 30 mm. The edge width, slightly noticeable at the beginning, gradually increases towards the tail. Buckling begins at 40 mm (counting from the top edge of the spoon) and gradually and smoothly descends towards the tail (Fig. C).

"Norvega" belongs to the group of lures with low vibration frequency; due to a slight bulge, it is inactive. To increase mobility, the spoon is made thin, no more than 1.2 mm thick. For fishing on fast flow thicker baubles are likely to work as well. The surface of the spinner is nickel-plated; from the concave side, half of the spoon in the longitudinal direction is colored red. The main color of the spoon and its coloring may be different.

The spinner is equipped with an oscillating type: a winding ring and a swivel (carabiner) are placed in the head part, and a freely hanging tee hook in the tail part. The weight of the lure with a rig with a length of 66.5 and a thickness of 1 mm is 14 g.

To build a spoon of a different size, all the dimensions indicated in the figure must be multiplied by one constant number (more or less than one).

V. Shebyakovsky offered the following option for making homemade lures.

In a block made of hard wood (beech, oak), cut a recess in the shape of a spoon. The edges (the contour of the spoon) should be deepened by 1-1.5 mm. The punching depth can be no more than 6-7 millimeters. Put strips of foil with a thickness of 0.05-0.2 millimeters on the mold, and on top of the foil - rubber with a thickness of 7-10 millimeters and squeeze in a vice or clamp. When the blank of one half of the spoon is ready, you need to cut off the excess foil along the contour. In the same way, they make the preparation of the second half of the spoon. After that, the inner parts of the blanks should be half-drenched and filled with lead. The halves filled with baubles can be bent in one direction or the other. Solder both halves, clean and polish the surface of the spoon. You can also make two-color spinners.

Do-it-yourself catchy spoons

Outwardly beautiful baubles, despite their complete resemblance to natural fish, often turn out to be unusable due to poor play. One of the most catchy lures turned out to be the bait of the famous Russian fisherman I. N. Komarov. Every amateur angler with minimal locksmith skills can make it at home.

A mold is made of clay, gypsum, limestone or wood. The most accessible for home-making is wood, since a piece of wood can be found everywhere at any time, while even clay is difficult to get, for example, in winter. The best tree for these purposes is linden, but you can also use birch, oak, pine, etc.

A small quadrangular block must be cut and its surface leveled. Then, with a pencil, draw on it the contours of the future baubles. Use a knife or chisel to cut out the outlined figure. The notch should be smaller at the edges, and gradually deepen by 4-5 mm towards the middle. The width at the head is 10-12 mm, the length is about 50-60 mm.

On one of the edges of the mold, where the head of the future spoon is supposed to be, make a shallow cut. When the groove in the wooden block is ready, you need to insert a medium-sized hook (No. 6-8) into the cut, but certainly with a ring, which will allow the tin to connect more firmly with the hook shaft. Then, in a spoon, heat a piece of pure tin (without any impurities) on fire, slightly larger than needed for a spoon, and pour the molten metal evenly, without stopping, into the prepared recess to the brim and even a little more, so that the tin somewhat rises above the surface of the mold.

When the tin hardens, the spinner should be removed from the mold with a file or knife, remove all irregularities, give it its final shape and bend.

On the edge of the spinner opposite the hook, drill with the tip of an awl or punch a hole for the winding ring with a thin nail. You can tie a spinner without a ring, directly to the fishing line.

In order for the spoon to be impeccably shiny, it is cleanly scraped out with the butt of a knife and polished (for example, on the boot of a felt boot; repeat this manipulation before each catch, since the tin dims from the water).

The advantage of a tin spoon, devoid of rigid foil or steel lining, is the ability to change its shape and bend during fishing, if necessary. So, increasing or decreasing the curvature of the tin "fish" allows you to change the nature of the game.

The “snake” spoon designed by the famous Khimki fishing master LS Nikolsky also turned out to be very tempting for predators. Perch, pike, and pike perch are equally eager to grab it. Made of tin and curved in the form of a snake in one plane, it is faced with outside brass foil.

In the water, the spoon not only plays great, but, apparently, "reliably" excites vibrations of the environment, similar to those that occur when small fish move. This assumption can be confirmed by successful flashing with a "snake" at great depths, where the illumination of the water is very low and predatory fish catch the movements of their "victims" only with the help of the lateral line and auditory organs.

Homemade baubles "Swallow" and "Jumping" L. Borisovets

For many years he used homemade lures "Swallow" and "Bouncer", which he highly recommended for catching asp. Their weight is 37-45 g. When driving, they fussily jump out of the water, which always attracts the asp.

Spoons "Swallow" and "Jumping" are made of silver-plated or tin-plated brass 1.5 mm thick. First, according to the dimensions shown in the figure, you need to cut out the blanks and drill the necessary holes with a diameter of 4 mm in them. The Swallow blank should be bent along the dotted line at an angle of 90 °. Rivet two double hooks No. 12 to the "wings" of the spoon tightly with copper rivets 4 mm in diameter. A strip of tin should be soldered in the groove of the Lastochka spoon to bring the weight of the spoon to 35-40 g.

The "Jumping" workpiece must be bent, as shown in the figure, and the "wings" of the spoon in the bow should be bent upwards at an angle of 40 °. Pour a lead ball with a diameter of 12 mm in the tail section. It is not difficult to do this in a plaster mold. Then you need to put on the winding rings, carbine and tee # 14. Spoons should be cleaned with a coarse sandpaper, but not polished. Polished spinners scare away fish with glare.

Spoons are attached to the forest without a leash. Their weight allows you to make casts up to 70-80 m.

"Swallow" and "Poprygunya" were tested in the basins of the Volga, Syrdarya, Neman and on the Western Dvina. The asp always pecked very actively on these spoons.

Spinner

M. Schwartz proposed the following design of a spinning spoon.

The spoon is made of metal. The workpiece has the form of an elliptical plate (Fig. 1).
The plate is bent in the longitudinal direction along a helical line (Fig. 2). The edges of the plate have two sections: 1, 2 and 3, 4, which are bent in pairs in opposite directions. So, section 1 is bent to one side, section 2 - to the opposite. Areas 3 and 4 are also bent. With respect to the transverse axis of the spoon, the bent edges are asymmetric. For example, sections 1 and 3 are longer than sections 2 and 4. The amount of bend in the edges may vary. There is a hole at both ends of the spoon, in each of which a winding ring is placed.
During the immersion of the spoon in the water and during the posting, it rotates and thus attracts predatory fish. The more elongated the ellipse has, the less rotation and vice versa.

A certain mass of spinning players are rarely tempted by purchased spinners, and even if they acquire them, it is only for the purpose of close study for further modification and refinement. Basically, good catching spoons are made by them on their own, taking into account the rich fishing experience and good knowledge of the habits of predatory fish. In this article we will highlight the most popular DIY pike spinners.

The lure should be shiny, heavy enough to provide a complex trajectory of movement (spinning), imitate the shape of a prey fish. That's why the best material for its manufacture there will be waterproof, polished metals (copper, brass, stainless steel, tin, lead).

It is customary to distinguish between three main types of spinners:

hesitant;
rotating;
balancers for vertical lure from a boat or from ice in winter;

In accordance with this division, we will use our abilities to self-made copyright miracle lures.

Oscillating Spoons

This type of bait is widely used for pike fishing. They are made of metal curved shiny or colored plates with a hook fixed to them (movably or motionlessly).

The most widespread and easiest to make homemade spinner is a bait made from the handle of a steel or nickel silver tablespoon... The shape necessary to increase the catching power is given by the curvature of the handle of the former spoon at both ends. Both lure attachments (for line and hook) are regular holes made with a drill. Cut 1.5-2 centimeters from the handle on the thin side, so it looks like a medium-sized bleak. The tee is installed on the wide end of the spoon handle.
From the rest of the teaspoon (no handle). The rest of the spoon is sanded with a file at the cut. Two holes are drilled. That's it - a perfectly symmetrical spoon with a depression is ready. For good bait wiring, the ring connecting the lure to the tee should be 1.5-2 times larger than the hook ring.
An exclusive analogue of the expensive "Devon" lure is made from the handle of an aluminum spoon. The manufacturing process completely repeats that for a heavy teaspoon, only the tee in this case is installed on the narrow part of the future spoon. This will prevent the spinner from jumping out of the water during the posting process. By additionally increasing the bend, you can increase the liveliness of the vibrator.
From a teaspoon (without handle) aluminum. Manufactured in the same way as for a steel billet. In contrast to the heavy version, the aluminum spoon spoon has an interesting effect of creating additional sound when wiring. For pike, this is a good additional stimulus.
From brass or copper billets a symmetrical oval or diamond-shaped plate is cut in the form of a medium-sized bleak fish, with a hole for a fishing line. By extrusion or embossing, the plate is given the required shape with the required bends. One side of the plate is covered with solder solder, which holds the hooks and makes the spoon heavier. The second side is carefully sanded. As blanks, you can use cast or turned blanks, and then the process of making a spoon will consist in drilling holes and attaching hooks.
Bimetal lure made of two metals (galvanic pair). The best, but unfortunately not the most durable, option would be a copper-aluminum combination. Two identical blanks are made with holes for winding tracks and rivets. The blanks are riveted and processed with a file until a spoon of the desired shape is obtained. Further, by stamping, the desired geometry of the vibrator is obtained. The surface is carefully ground and polished.
Tubular lure made from a metal tube of suitable size. The tube is cut on both sides at different angles, processed and polished. The fishing line is attached to the blunt cut of the tube so that the spoon prowls during the posting, imitating a rushing fish.
Micro-oscillators
Tubular compound spoon will provide even more "play" and yaw on the water. The design of a complex lure consists, as a rule, of three parts, movably connected to each other. The bends of such a spoon make it practically indistinguishable from the movements of a live fish.
Corrugated spoon can be made both by chasing (embossing) and from ready-made corrugated sanitary pipes. Workpieces of the desired shape are cut out, holes are drilled in them for attaching the fishing line and tee. Such spoons are often very catchy.
Ultra-light micro-vibrators are made similarly to options 5 and 6 and differ only in the thoroughness of processing. The edges of the spinner are rounded off with a file and from the outside, the thickness of the metal is reduced to nothing. Then the surface is cleaned with fine sandpaper and polished.

Decorating baubles

Plumage. The beauty attached to the tee part of the spoon plays a very definite role: it makes the bait more voluminous and more attractive for such a predator as a pike. There are options for spinners with a vibrotail (twister), with tinsel, with a silicone skirt, with a bright woolen thread.

Additionally colored baubles makes the bait more attractive and catchy. It is enough just to mark the eye of the fish, draw transverse stripes or paint one side in a contrasting color, leaving the other light, and an increase in the number of bites is guaranteed.

Spinning lures

Such a spoon consists of two main elements - a base and a petal, differing in different shapes and designs. When guiding, the petal rotates around the base, thereby attracting the attention of the predator.

Petal baubles It is made from a metal blank in the form of round, oval or narrow elongated petals. The edges of the workpiece are carefully cleaned and processed. The petal is given the desired shape - concave, curved, twisting. When assembling the bait, the hook is located at the bottom, immediately above it weights (lead beads or discs) are placed to shift the center of gravity and good rotation of the petal, then bright beads, then the petal itself. An elongated and pointed petal shape is considered universal; it provides fast guidance and play in the water.
Spoons with impellers. Quite a numerous and varied type of bait. There are spoons with 2, 4 and 8-blade impellers, providing a rotational movement of the bait. The impellers are made of soft metal by making radial cuts and bending the resulting blades in one direction.

Spoon - balancer

The only kind of horizontal sheer spoon... Just like the previous types of baits, this lure is an imitation of a fry fish.

Actually, the balancer itself consists of a tube the length of an ordinary match, to which hooks are attached on both sides, and a mount is located in the middle. Initially, a plaster mold is created for the casting. Hooks and wire for fastening are placed and fixed in it. Molten lead or tin is carefully poured into the mold. After the metal has cooled down, all irregularities are smoothed out, the fish is painted in bright colors, preferably green-yellow or green-orange.

This type of lure is mainly used for ice fishing.