- Downhill: first steps. Seasonal Work Downhill Basics

Downhill is an extreme discipline in cycling. Its essence lies in the passage of the route for a while. The route is a descent from a mountain with many obstacles, sharp turns and jumps.

Despite the fact that the essence of downhill is quite simple, downhill cycling is a rather dangerous activity, so even reaching the end of the track is considered a good result. In this sport, it is important to have excellent cycling skills and good physical fitness.

Downhill trails

A typical downhill track is a long downhill slope with bumps in the form of pits and bumps, rocks, tree roots, sharp turns, jumps, man-made obstacles and anything else you can imagine. The difference in altitude is usually 500 meters by 1.5-2 km.

Sometimes downhill competitions are held within the city, but the essence remains the same - downhill. The road is a road for cars, sidewalks, steps and other urban terrain, supplemented by jumps. The average speed of athletes is 36 km / h, the maximum speed can be up to 60.

Downhill equipment

V mandatory full face helmet is used. It is somewhat reminiscent of a helmet for motorcycle riders. In addition to the helmet, some athletes use goggles that look like snowboarding goggles. Neck protection is sometimes found.

Other necessary elements equipment - these are shields that protect the knees, shins, elbows, hand, back, hips, and so on. Falling downhill is very likely to result in injury, so protecting your body carefully is a very smart decision. Gloves should be with rigid inserts.

Downhill bike

And of course, you can't do without a special bike. This must be a double suspension with a special frame geometry, which is aimed at increasing stability at high speeds. Rear suspension travel 180-250 mm. Forks, as a rule, double-crowned with a travel of 200 mm, single-crowned 180-190 mm.

Necessarily powerful brakes with 180-220 mm rotors. The wheel diameter is usually 26 ″, but there are also models with 24 ″. The rims are reinforced, wide, and fit up to 3 "wide tires with very bad tread. These wheels perfectly withstand all shocks and hold the road. The chambers are thick, reinforced, this is necessary to protect against punctures and cuts.

As for the steering, the handlebar width is 760-820 mm, the stem length is 40 mm. A short stem is needed in order to better control the bike. The frame material is different: steel, aluminum, carbon. The weight of the bicycles is 15-25 kg. In this sport, this is not a critical parameter at all.

How to go downhill?

Downhill competitions are held all over the world. In order to participate you need to have excellent training and a suitable bike. The cost of such a bike (new model) will be from $ 1,500. Find downhill lovers in your city and they will help you join this party!

First person video of downhill in the mountains:

Downhill in an urban setting:

For the pros, a steep slide is almost a vertical wall. For an ordinary mountain biker with an average level of skill, this is a slope, from which it seems unrealistic, especially when you stand and look at it from above. Regardless of these two points of view, the descent technique is the same in both cases. Our tips will help you, even beginners, master the basic downhill techniques. But first you need to destroy some famous myth ...

Learn to use the front brake
A bit of physics. Every time you use the brakes (it doesn't matter whether it is front or rear), inertia shifts the weight from the rear wheel to the front wheel. This means that the harder you brake, the less effective the rear brake is. When you brake while riding the bike downhill, the transfer of weight from the rear wheel is enhanced by the angle of inclination of each individual rider. In this case, the rear wheel is almost unloaded and has minimal contact with the surface, in contrast to the front wheel, on which almost all the load takes place. In this position, even a very small force from pressing one finger on the brake lever can completely block the rear wheel. This is where the myth is born.


Contrary to what most of us have learned from childhood "do not brake with the front, or you will fly out through the steering wheel", practice claims the opposite. Have you noticed that on some bikes the front brake disc is larger than the rear disc? This is explained by the fact that when braking, 70-80% of the load falls on front wheel... The front brake is designed to slow the downward movement of the bike, i.e. to brake. The rear wheel mainly serves to hold back the rear wheel during hard braking and improve cornering control. Anyone who tells you otherwise - dad, shop assistant, or even some top rider - is deeply mistaken.

It is impossible to master downhill techniques without learning how to properly handle the front brake. Motorcycle riders, who no doubt have the best two-wheel descent technique, have mastered this technique to the point where they can stop and balance on one front wheel at the edge of a precipice. They will confirm that trying to control the descent speed with just one rear brake is no smarter than dragging a block of concrete on a rope behind the bike. Front brake for stopping, rear for control. Remember?
Dragging a locked rear wheel down a hill or single track is stupid. When can you drive with locked wheels? This technique designed for descending sand dunes or deep snow.

Short ramps
It is naturally best to start downhill practice with a small one. Find a suitable steep slope of about 4-10 meters - not washed out or broken, with an even slope. It is important that at the end there is enough space for braking (about 12-15 meters of a flat plane) so that you can stop after the steam comes out of your head.
We assume that you are already familiar with the use of the front brake. Now your task will be to apply the brakes so as to drive downhill at the speed of a pedestrian (4-5 km / h).

You need to try to move the center of gravity back, but not very far, so as not to unnecessarily relieve the front wheel. As you get closer to the edge, try to lower your body in relation to the bike - bend your legs and move back. This position will allow you to control the speed, and it is also the most favorable for rolling out.


Listen to the sound of your tires. Dose the braking to keep the wheels moving. The scratching sound during heavy braking will be replaced by a hiss if they are blocked. Therefore, if you hear a hiss, release the brake levers a little. It is important not to allow the wheels to lock, since such a wheel cannot be controlled - it will follow the same path as the water poured out of the barrel - you will begin to skid, as if on ice, until the wheel can turn again.

If the descent is large enough, you will only be able to control the speed for the first couple of meters. Focus your gaze about three meters in front of you. As the incline becomes steeper and the speed increases, you need to release the braking so that the wheels can turn, and naturally, the more you release the brakes, the faster you will go downhill. About halfway down your descent, shift your gaze to a flat area of ​​the rollout and release the brakes completely. The ability to "let go" in time is a guarantee of good luck in such extreme exercises.

Slide to the middle of the bike before entering the rollout. At this point, you should straighten up, but in any case do not apply the brakes until you are completely off the slide onto a level surface.

Turn around, look at the slide, and repeat what you just did. It is important to go over the top edge as slowly as possible, use the brakes to keep the speed away while not blocking the wheels. Then release the brakes to drive the last part of the path without losing control of the bike. Train your braking skills, each time trying to increase the distance that you can travel "on the brakes" before releasing them. When you have the courage, try the other way around: release the brakes earlier, until you can drive the entire descent without them. Ooh!

"Banana descent" - vertical
The vertical slope is, perhaps, the most terrible and at the same time the easiest descent. Before you try to slide down, you need to examine him on his feet. Look for a drop from 2.5 to 3 meters (about twice more length your bike). Make sure there is a smooth roll-out (the safe transition from vertical to horizontal should be three times the radius of your wheel). Check that the cliff at the top is not too sharp, and that there is no bump in the middle of the slope. Both can throw your bike over your head - which, as you know, is not good. If the "theme" suits you, climb up - and forward ... more precisely, down ...

Drive over the edge slowly. At the time when the front wheel is already down, and the rear one just starts rolling over the edge, release the brakes completely! It will be useful to remind you: do not touch the brakes until you find yourself on level ground! When you fully roll over the edge, your wheels may still be touching the ground, but in fact you will fall to the roll-out point.

Key moment. Since there is no time to change your body position and prepare for the rollout and landing, you must keep low in the middle of the bike. If you feel like you are diving over the edge with your bike, like in slow motion, you have found the right position. If you lean too far back, the bike can shoot out from under you on landing. You can break your tailbone.

For a split second, you will feel weightless, and then you will meet a rollout. Stretch your arms and legs and only brake when both wheels are on level ground.

This warning will help you avoid injury. If you panic when you run over the edge, be prepared to go all the way. The rear wheel can bounce, and you think that you are about to collapse, but hold on to the steering wheel tightly and, we will repeat it again, see it through to the end. The rollout will automatically straighten your bike.

If you loosen your grip on the steering wheel or try to jump off the bike, you will first hit the ground with your head, risking injury to your spine, and to top it all off, your loyal bike will knock you on the skull. Here it will be useful to remind about the benefits of a helmet.

Continuous, technical downhill
No biker should try long technical downhill until he has honed his skill on short ramps. Even then, it is worth doing it with the utmost care.

Rookie downhealers put on the brakes and glide helplessly over the technical sections, and then screw in on the lighter sections of the track (not referring to the high-speed sections here). Experienced riders do the exact opposite. The key to successfully completing a long technical downhill track is to keep your speed down as much as possible so that when the situation calls for you to release the brakes, you don't rush at the speed of light without controlling the bike and your movement. So, heed our advice:

Stop at the edge of the slope and look at it. Divide the first 45-50 meters into two groups: steep, technical sections (here you may need to release the brakes to pass rocks / boulders or vertical drops); the terrain is less difficult and relatively level, where you have enough grip for effective braking.

Move a little backward and bend over the bike to lower your center of gravity and maintain consistent pressure on the front tire (ground contact area). You will need maximum stopping power from the front brake. Make sure that the wheels turn, otherwise you will not be able to control the bike in unexpected situations.


Now implement your plan. On light sections of the track, brake with all your might to reduce the speed as much as possible. When you approach steep or slippery areas, release the brakes as needed. In stock it is better to have a small force of inertia before flying at speed over stones or potholes and potholes. Just do not forget to stop speed as soon as you enter a relatively safe sector of the descent.

The scheme of continuation of the technical section is as follows: choose the place of the exit before you drive up; as soon as you see what is there, beyond the edge, define a safe roll-out at the bottom. Use the brakes as long as they are effective, then gradually release them before you reach rollout.

You will quickly find that the best trajectory down a steep mountain is the straightest line, even if it goes over a couple of boulders or holes. The more turns you make on the slope, the more likely you are to fall off your bike. Adapt to the situation. If you go off course, it is better to steer the bike towards the intended rollout than to change the trajectory already during the descent. A steep ramp is nothing more than a controlled fall. Entry and exit points are very important here.

Remember the Scottish proverb: "Whoever escaped from the battlefield survived for the next battle."

There is no dishonor in walking a section that is not yet ready for today - even professional riders miss tricks for the same reason. Remember: the bike can still be replaced, you cannot!

Every cyclist who lives in the city on the hills knows the area well and has already explored all the routes in search of the path with the least ascent. But there are people who get bored when driving on smooth, gentle and well-equipped roads. These active people love cycling downhill and sometimes go off the straight track in search of the steepest and longest downhill descent. And a difficult climb up the hill for them will be a serious test and a way of avoiding problems. Everyday life.

When it's a tough day and everything seems depressing, cycling downhill fans don't give up. When it is raining outside and a cold gusty wind blows, so strong that even the prospect of leaving the house seems unreasonable, they go all-in and come off in full on the hill. The steepest hill becomes the best place for the coveted workout. And the resulting adrenaline and a sense of accomplishment never hurt.

Of course, it is dangerous to go down the slope at a speed of about 60 or even 70 km per hour, but in races on equipped mountain roads, even this is not the limit. If they want to set a record in downhill, athletes sometimes accelerate to a speed of 80 km per hour. What happens at that speed when you fall? Experienced riders can avoid injury with experience and a protective helmet. And on a bicycle, when hitting a sharp stone, followed by a fall, the rider most often breaks.

Celebrate your victories!

It is clear that the best reward after a long climb is a rapid descent down the mountainside. But you will remember your victory for a very long time and dream of another race if you stop for a second and enjoy every moment. A short stop at the top is worth a lot, allowing you to calm your breathing, stretch your shoulders, feel the flow of blood and smile naively but heartily. When you fly down, you will remember this minute with peace.

Introducing the Downhill Bike

Downhill bike (also known as two-suspension Mountain bike) has front and always rear wheel shock absorption. It is designed for descending especially steep, rocky paths. Unlike a regular mountain bike, the downhill bike frame is thick walled and has a large margin of safety.

Downhill bikes are very similar because of their wide and sturdy frame. The frames of these bikes are designed to absorb shock when riding on rocky roads, crossing logs and jumping. The riding style on these bikes is also very similar.

Compared to the lighter and more versatile XC bikes, downhill bikes are heavy and highly specialized. Downhill bike is primarily designed for downhill skiing. The mountain rider usually does not need to push it up on his own. Sometimes you can use your own car or shuttle bus to transport your bike up the mountain. There are ski lifts on the equipped slopes.

For downhill runs, typically over 34 lbs (14 kg), but some modern downhill bikes have overcome the 30 lb barrier, such as the Specialized Demo 8 S-Works, a technical wonder weighs just over 23 lbs or 10 kg. Some of the newest, released in May 2014, dayhill bikes can also be made from carbon to reduce weight by up to 30 lbs (14 kg), such as models such as the Trek Session 9.9 or the Kona Supreme Operator.

Specialized Demo 8 S-Works Downhill Bike with Lightest Carbon Frame

Downhill bike design features

Downhill bikes are usually made of aluminum, but there are carbon models as well. They are designed in such a way that they have an unrealistically wide range of travel of the rear suspension - 7-10 inches (178-254 mm). Front fork compression is also significant - 7-8 inches (178-203 mm). Suspension sag under the rider's weight is much greater than for XC bikes (25-50% for downhill bikes versus 10-20% for full suspension for touring). This kind of soft suspension is needed to ride over logs and rocks at the highest possible speed.


Basic measurements on the downhill bike frame

Downhill bikes also feature a very small head tube angle (head tube angle is 66 degrees or less), a long wheelbase (wheel base is more than 45 inches or 1143 mm) and the ability to use very wide tires - up to 3 inches (76.2 mm ) with large lugs. Very wide and thick walled tires are important in order not to lose traction in places where it is difficult to stay even on your feet.


Downhill bike chain guide

Other cool options include 8-inch (203mm) disc brakes and a chain guide to prevent chain slippage when going downhill. Another innovation is the use of a OnePointFive stem (one attachment point with five arms), which fits over a thick 1.5 '' (38mm) head tube, rather than the more traditional 1.125 '' (29mm) tube.

Thus, an additional margin of safety and inflexibility of the steering wheel is achieved. The tilt-adjustable stem allows the bike to be tailored to the owner's preferred riding style.


5-arm stem, adjustable on a tilt angle of a handlebar

Most downhill bikes have double-sided front forks that provide very long travel (typically up to 8 inches or 203 mm). These forks offer increased strength that a single-sided A-pillar cannot have. The disadvantage of the double crown design is that it is heavy and has a limited turning radius.

How to master downhill?

You will have to struggle for a long time before learning how to shift weight, pedal and breathe correctly on your epic yet surmountable uphill climb. The subsequent descent is just as difficult, although it is completely different from the ascent. In general, the downhill skill will have to be learned.

On the first races on a steep downhill, every novice cyclist engages the brakes and slides down slowly, with jerks, while his hands become sweaty and quickly go numb. The ability to move quickly is an important skill that can only be acquired as a result of long-term practice. Gradually, you will go through turns faster, modulating your speed, and learn to put the pedals in advance in a position in which the lowered leg will always be with outside turning. It will not be superfluous to learn to relax your shoulders and arms before each impact on the road, so as not to damage your spine.

Downhill Shifting

There is some good advice for everyone to get along with the derailleurs on their bike. You need to know that even when descending a hill, you need to downshift it slowly, but confidently, while not stopping to pedal non-stop. On the contrary, you need to shift to a higher-speed gear as quickly as possible, so as not to pedal in vain and not to lose precious speed.

You will select the optimal gear too slowly, and you will need to jump through many sprockets at some point in dramatically changed road conditions. Since the skill of shifting gears remains in muscle memory, you will be able to get into a rhythm with the speed of the rear wheel over time. The only way to learn this is to conquer as many hills as possible.

Full brake control

There is a myth that braking in a corner on a descent will necessarily lead to a fall. In fact, slightly slowing down rear wheel, you can make a sharp turn on a steep slope much faster than without using the brakes. This is tantamount to a skid on a car, only more sensitive and controllable. But don't just take our word for it, go outside and try it yourself.

Not using the brakes on a straight line when descending is also dangerous, as it increases the risk of losing control of the situation. When you have to urgently reduce the speed, you will sharply throw your fingers on the brake levers, and if you press uncontrollably, they will jam very quickly. At the same time, a fall on a steep descent is quite likely. Therefore, always keep the brake levers under control with two fingers.

Don't stop halfway! You need to continue to master cycling downhill: step on the pedals, breathe deeply, keep your eyes on the finish line. And go ahead! You can do the same tricks as in this video.

So, the necessary knowledge, without which these disciplines would not exist.


Braking. Your bike probably has two brakes (yes, I'm sure of that). Some newbies think the front brake isn't really necessary. Like, the front brake is generally "from the evil one". And if you use it, you can hurt yourself even more than without it at all. WRONG OPINION. The most effective braking EXACTLY FRONT BRAKE. But this does not mean at all that you have to grip the front brake with a death grip. With any braking, efficiency increases when both brakes are used at once (simultaneously), but without locking the wheels, on the verge of locking. Give preference to the front brake, but do not block the wheel, otherwise you will fly over the steering wheel.


Overcoming climbs. In fact, there are different climbs. Short and long, steep and gentle (for endurance). Long and gentle climbs, you probably know how to overcome - we pump in the gear lighter before lifting and screw it in. But short and steep climbs are a problem for some. Listen: shifting to a not too light, but more powerful gear. And we screw it in before lifting as quickly as possible. At speed we fly up the hill and already in the middle we begin to pedal again. If you practice, you can fly on such climbs without losing speed at all.


Slopes. Slopes are easy. Just don't be afraid of them. Any descent is associated with the risk of falling, so you need to minimize the risk - mentally calm down. Calmed down a little? Then let's go downstairs. Get off the saddle and move your butt point (yes, that's me about it) behind the saddle so that it is above the rear wheel. Remember, I wrote about braking, here, all braking on the descent is only with the FRONT brake, but in no case DO NOT BLOCK it. If the front is missing, use the back one, but also DO NOT BLOCK, otherwise you will be carried and turned sideways to the slope, and then you will fall with somersaults. One more thing. Keep the steering wheel FIRM, because you will hardly come across perfectly smooth slopes without roots and holes.


Ladders and steps. Many beginners think their bike will fall apart if they ride it down the stairs. Nope does not fall apart, the wheels can be punched if they are poorly inflated. Taking the stairs down couldn't be easier. Roll slowly while standing on the pedals. Apply the front and rear brakes and gently roll down gradually from step to step. It is best to slide behind the saddle. Hold the steering wheel firmly and RELAX YOUR KNEES and your hands IN THE ELBOWS. All, practice on small spans, and then climb on large ones.


Narrow curbs, trees and other "Uzyatina". To ride on narrow things, you need to constantly train and it will pass by itself. But a couple of tips won't hurt you. Keep your body weight in the middle of the bike, bend your knees slightly, straighten blockages to the sides with your knees or "throwing" your leg to the side. It really helps sometimes to slow down, and sometimes to turn the pedals sharply in order to catch the balance. Remember that it is easier to balance in movement, do not stop at all. When you eat, look more forward rather than into your front wheel. Relax, it really helps if the body is constrained by tension, you simply don’t feel where you are headed and you cannot fight it.


Here are the basic elements that everyone should know and be able to do. It’s not cool, it’s not fashionable, but it really helps the bike feel better and is a must for every biker.


Thanks to Dima aka IronCLAD for helping create this tutorial.

Downhill is like manna from heaven for extreme lovers. This type of cycling allows you to throw out adrenaline and get a lot of emotions, as well as test yourself and your nerves for strength. After all, go down safe and sound from the mountainside to maximum speed and at the same time, only a tough nut can not lose control over the iron horse.

Downhill: what is it?

Downhill refers to cycling on hilly and mountainous slopes with timed obstacles. However, just at first glance, going down the mountain is not sickly business. In reality, downhill trails abound with steep descents and turns, a large number of jumps, stones and snags.

Even experienced athletes cannot pass such tests, let alone beginners. Bruises, abrasions and even fractures are constant companions of those who have chosen downhill as their calling.

What should a downhill person be like? First, physically strong. Indeed, during such an extreme "walk" on a bicycle, the body experiences tremendous stress. Plus weight vehicle not the smallest - 20 kg.

Secondly, the future downhiller should be on "you" with his bike. The daredevil is obliged to master the technique of driving two-wheeled vehicles at "5+". For the speed of descent is not childish - from 40 km / h, maximum - 60 km / h. At the same time, the elevation differences on the track vary and are, on average, about 80 m.

Downhill bike - athlete's friend and brother

A downhill bike is the familiar two-suspension mountain bike. Despite the outward resemblance of this bike to its freeride counterparts (due to its wide frame), the downhill bike has a number of features:

  • Reinforced frame. It is reinforced at all important junctions, since the cyclist needs to jump a lot and overcome difficult sections. The frame also has a certain geometric shape. The frame is made of various materials: aluminum, stainless steel, titanium.
  • The range of the front suspension is large up to 200 mm. This softens the shock while driving. The fork can be either one-sided (up to 180 mm) or two-sided.
  • Rear suspension travel 180-250 mm. These metrics help absorb and cushion shocks for a comfortable ride.
  • Wide rims that are also reinforced. Their diameter is 26 inches. They are strong and heavy, resistant to strong blows... For greater safety, the rims are "stuffed" with more spokes.

Some athletes in competition take bikes with 29-inch wheels - niners.

  • Wide tires. The tread of these tires has an aggressive pattern. Wide tires are needed in order to achieve the greatest contact between the wheels and the ground.
  • The wide handlebars give you better control over your bike.
  • Hydraulic disc brakes. They provide effective braking performance. The rotor is 200-220 mm in size.

Downhill basic skills

The skill of downhill cycling has been developed over the years. How to breathe, pedal and distribute your weight during a ride are skills that don't come straight away.

What technical secrets can professionals advise for beginners?

  1. Learn to move out quickly. The ability to drive and not engage the brakes every minute, without jerking and slowly sliding down is something that a downhiller should learn right away. You should also watch out for relaxation. shoulder girdle and hands in front of upcoming obstacles on the road. Daily workouts will teach you how to regulate speed, increase speed when cornering and correctly place your feet on the pedals (the lowered leg is located on the outside of the turn).
  2. Shifting down to a lower speed should be slow. In this case, you cannot stop, on the contrary, you need to continue to pedal. It is necessary to shift to a large gear quickly. This will prevent you from idling and slowing down. The ability to switch speed modes needs to be brought to automaticity.
  3. Braking. Slightly applying the rear brake can increase speed when cornering. Always keep both fingers on the brakes to reduce the risk of losing control of the bike.

All these tips are tested in practice and only on it. Therefore, take a bike and ride, improving your skills.

Safety comes first!

The right equipment can reduce the risk of serious injury:

  • Downhill helmet. Pay attention to the full face helmet. It protects the face, jaw, and skull from injury.
  • Glasses. They must be wide. The glasses protect your eyes from dust and dirt, insects.
  • Special gloves. They protect the hands from injury, and also eliminate the sweating of the skin of the hands.
  • Body suit with knee pads and elbow pads. Protects the athlete's body (chest, back) in the event of a fall.
  • Shields for lower limbs... They prevent small stones from getting into the cyclist's clothes.
  • Special sneakers with a hard sole.
  • Professional cycling shorts with "diaper" for a comfortable ride.

Downhill competition

Burnt-out racers have been taking part in world downhill competitions for a long time. The Downhill World Cup is held annually and attracts many people who want to participate, as well as just fans of this sport. Professionals who take part in cups of this format more than once have a team of coaches, mechanics, massage therapists. Race results are influenced by the speed of descent, as well as the number of falls during the ride. During such competitions, riders exchange experience, improve their professionalism, set records and just enjoy the process. Mini downhill, that is, downhill only on a shorter and less aggressive track, also gathers extreme sportsmen for competitions in various European and Russian cities.

New sensations rule the world. Do not be afraid to let positive emotions and drive into your life with downhill! Conquer your own sports heights!

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