How to choose skis for skating and not to be mistaken? Choosing skis is not an easy task, especially for beginners. Buying this sports equipment requires a competent, responsible and balanced approach.

How to choose skating skis for a beginner?

The first difficulties can arise directly when determining products that are included in the category of cross-country ones. Often this type includes models that differ in structure from alpine skiing... At the same time, a beginner absolutely does not need professional skis for skating, at least based on their high cost.

A person who is just getting on skis first of all needs to decide on an affordable price category. The cost of individual models of skating skis can range from $ 30 to $ 350. And even with a special wallet size, the most expensive models from reputable global manufacturers are not always an ideal solution.

Which skating skis are best for you? The optimal solution for beginners can be cross-country skis for skating of domestic production. Firstly, the average quality of such models allows you to feel the whole complex of positive emotions from skiing, and secondly, their cost is so affordable that you can use such skis without sparing, in almost any conditions.

Another important question for a beginner is the selection of cross-country skis based on technical parameters: length, level of rigidity, structural strength. It is these characteristics that are decisive when choosing any models.

The optimal ski length for skating can be determined according to the classic calculation formula. To do this, it is necessary to add 25-30 cm to the height of the skier, which will become an indicator of a suitable length.

As for the stiffness of the skis, here you need to focus on the weight of the skier. Under an overweight rider, soft models will certainly bend, causing a lot of inconvenience. With a low weight skier, equipment that is too stiff will slip with a rather unpleasant recoil. To determine the optimal level of rigidity, it is enough to stand on the skis with full weight, having previously placed a thick sheet of paper under the mount area. A sufficient stiffness indicator is considered if the sheet can be easily moved under the sliding surface for a distance of about 30-40 cm in both directions.

The bulk of buyers prefers to immediately purchase expensive skating skis for riding at an entry level, hoping for a comfortable feeling while riding based on the authority of a recognizable manufacturer. However, reliability and high quality expensive skis are justified by the need to achieve maximum speeds on the track. It is unlikely that a novice amateur will immediately be able to ride at such speeds using correct technique ride. Therefore, there is no point in spending money on buying a professional model of skis for a person without much experience.

Manufacturing materials

When carrying out a procedure such as choosing skis for skating, an important question for most beginners is the selection of the right material. Many of us have not yet forgotten the good old wooden models of Soviet-made cross-country skis, which at one time had practically no alternative. Therefore, some sports fans are extremely difficult to accept the need to switch to the use of modern plastic models. The main reason here is far from the stiffness of perception, but rather the lack of information about the features of the operation of such equipment.

Plastic skating skis are not as simple as they might seem at first glance. Using such a model without proper preparation and maintenance, you can feel discomfort, convincing yourself of an unsuccessful purchase already in the first meters of the track.

In fact, plastic has improved sliding properties compared to wood. Therefore, when choosing plastic cross-country skis, you need to be prepared for the need for regular lubrication. sliding surface products, selecting suitable formulations and based on weather conditions and the nature of the terrain.

Plastic models of cross-country skis are much stronger than wooden ones and, accordingly, have an increased level of reliability. And if the owners of the first ones begin to cover their favorite inventory with the appearance of positive indicators on the thermometer, then the happy owners of plastic analogs usually delight themselves with the continuation of the season for some time.

How to choose skating skis for your riding style?

One of the defining moments in the selection of skis is the correspondence of the selected model to the skiing style. It is recommended to consider individual features and configuration of skis based on the nature of the future use of the purchased pair.

The selection of skis for skating should be carried out, focusing on the features of the riding style itself, which is characterized by the need to perform sweeping movements, the so-called "herringbone".

The main difference between classic skis and skating models is their lubrication. To achieve the most uniform glide possible, the surface skating skis treated with primers in the form of holding ointments, lubricated with paraffin along the entire length, additionally treated with special sliding lubricants. At the same time, such a treatment is unacceptable for classic ski models, the sliding surface of which, on the contrary, is sanded to achieve greater grip, after which it is covered with a holding lubricant.

To choose skating skis that will be used for running in a running style, you need to pay attention to the most durable products that can withstand significant loads.

In general, experts recommend purchasing several sets of skis for traditional, skating and cross-country skiing. It is this solution that will allow you to avoid difficulties and discomfort by being able to switch from one move to another.

Ski boots

The most important process, along with the direct selection of cross-country skis, is the selection of a whole range of necessary accessories: bindings, boots, poles, etc. Innovative models ski boots are not just special shoes for a comfortable connection with skis, but also products that can protect your feet from certain loads and maintain a balance of heat.

In the production of modern ski boots, the following factors are taken into account. anatomical features skiers' feet and natural hygiene requirements. The selection of high-quality, reliable boots is the key to a comfortable, successful ride. A responsible approach to the selection of boots eliminates the need to be distracted by all sorts of inconveniences in the form of squeezed toes or wet feet.

Currently, there are several main categories of ski boots:

1. Classic models - traditionally used on ski models that are used for skiing with a classic move.
2. Skating boots - the structure and functionality of this equipment corresponds to the peculiarities of the skating course.
3. Combination models - can be used for riding in different styles, thanks to the presence of a convenient removable cuff.

Mountings

When choosing skis for skating, you need to think about the selection of suitable bindings. Today, there are standard and profile types of fasteners.

Standard bindings involve connecting to boots using holes for which there are connectors on the sole of special boots. Such bindings also have protrusions, due to which, in fact, a reliable fixation of ski boots occurs.

Profile systems, however, have rubber elements of varying rigidity, which ensures high repulsion efficiency when running. There are several separate fastening options for profile boots - NNN and SNS. The difference between these types of profile fasteners lies in the number of recesses. There are two of them in NNN mounts, and only one in SNS mounts.

Ski poles

Picking up best skis for skating, you should pay attention to the choice of the most comfortable, effective poles. In many ways, the choice of poles depends on the riding style. The choice of sticks, the length of which reaches the armpits, is most appropriate for the classic riding style, and for the "skate" it is recommended to select sticks up to the shoulder.

The ideal solution is the selection of poles with an anatomically adjusted lanyard and large legs. The presence of these characteristics makes it possible to ride for a long time, practically without feeling fatigue or discomfort in the hands.

How to prepare skis for skating?

Preparing skis for skating involves, first of all, creating a sliding surface structure that best matches the nature of the snow. For this, the outer plane of the skis is treated with special substances in the form of ointments and paraffin, which are selected based on weather conditions.

First of all, a firm grip ointment is applied to the sliding surface of the skis. The procedure is carried out in the following order:

• the outer plane of the skis is processed with sandpaper, which improves grip due to the raising of the pile;
• a heated ground ointment is applied with a consistency that best suits the weather conditions;
• the ointment is leveled with an iron of medium temperature;
• after hardening, subsequent layers of ointment are applied in the holding area and leveled with a synthetic cork.

Applying paraffin to the ski surface

Lubrication of skating skis in the presence of a sufficiently soft paraffin can be done by applying it to the sliding surface in a cold state. If the ski is processed using hard paraffin, then they resort to heating the lubricant with an iron. Alternatively, skating skis can be lubricated by briefly heating a bar of hard paraffin, followed by smoothing the skis with smooth strokes.

Such an amount of paraffin should be applied to the ski so that, when melted, the lubricant spreads evenly over the entire sliding surface, and the layer of the substance should be no more than 1 mm. It is leveled with the same hot iron.

Preparing skis for skating by applying lubricant in the form of paraffin heated by an iron is the most dangerous procedure. With an inaccurate approach to the operation, there is a high probability of overheating, deformation and burning out of high molecular weight plastic. Therefore, when applying paraffin, it is strongly recommended to set the lowest possible iron temperature at which the existing paraffin can be melted.

It is necessary to run the iron on the sliding surface of the skis smoothly and without delay. At the same time, there must be a layer of paraffin between the plastic and the sole of the iron, because plastic quickly lends itself to burning if there is direct contact with the heated surface of the iron. Based on this, it is not worth saving on the consumption of paraffin, as this often leads to more serious material losses in the form of damage to equipment.

Cleaning the ski surface with special brushes

In cases when the entire length of skating skis is machined on special grinding machines, it becomes possible to form a complex large or small microstructure of the surface. This treatment promotes optimal drainage of liquid and air when the ski comes into contact with the snow, which ensures the best glide.

After removing the remnants of the old paraffin with scrapers, with the arrival of the new season, there are enough small grooves filled with grease. To restore the original structure of the ski surface, wax residues should be removed with rotary or hand brushes. The most effective can be the use of hard metal or nylon brushes, which have a fine bristle.

When cleaning the sliding surface from paraffin with brushes, it is not recommended to be too zealous, making sudden movements or excessive pressure, so as not to damage the structure of the plastic. The fibers of metal and nylon brushes are most effective at removing wax residues when placed at right angles to the surface to be treated.

1. It is better to use a special iron to apply the base coat in the form of a primer ointment, since most irons for ironing clothes do not allow you to set the optimal temperature.
2. The delay of the heated soleplate of the iron at one point of the ski surface often, unfortunately, leads to burning through and deformation of the plastic.
3. Before applying slip ointment when preparing skis for skiing, you should activate the surface by brushing it once more.
4. When preparing skis for skiing in freezing, it is better to resort to creating a fine structure of the sliding surface, and in warm weather, to use a large surface texture.
5. Trial and error is essential in preparing the sliding surface. In other words, it's worth trying on personal experience different combinations of lubricants for different weather conditions.
6. Before the need for long-term storage of skis, do not peel off old paraffin, which will act as a protection for the sliding surface in the off-season.
7. It is recommended that you initially take extreme care of your skis, because only in this case you can hope for their long service and getting maximum pleasure in the skiing process.

This wonderful sports instrument has gained massive popularity over a hundred years ago. Of course, modern models are very different from their predecessors in terms of length, width, and quality of production. But no matter how good a projectile is, it needs special care for reference functionality. Therefore, preparing new cross-country skis is one of the essential elements for both professionals and beginners. It is not enough just to pick up the goods from the counter in the store. If you immediately start intensive operation, then it will quickly become unusable. In addition, its capabilities will be far from those stated.

Competition fees

Do not think that all this technique is necessary only for athletes. high level when at least the country's cup is at stake. No, novice, amateur, and sports guru are all in one way or another engaged in preventive measures. Of course, the professionals who collect the Olympic gold, in most cases, do not engage in such activities on their own. They just don't have enough time for that, they are focused on training.

But if it comes about competitions at a local level, a city championship in which juniors are involved, small district events or performances of various schools and universities, then an athlete must be a jack of all trades. And buy the goods, and take all the actions for the correct processing, and win the race.

It should be understood that these events largely depend on the style of the route. It can be downhill, freeride, classic or skating style races, even biathlon. And each requires its own tool, respectively, and individual preparatory measures.

Types and features of skis

The species diversity is very extensive. Children can be immediately excluded, they are, in principle, not intended for serious sports, simplified to the maximum. You only need to cook professional or tourist models.

They, in turn, are divided into two main areas - cross-country and mountain. The first ones are usually divided into classic and skating. The latter have a much broader gradation, although for the most part they are also subdivided into two key areas. This is skycross and freeride. That is, high-speed launch or universal, for descent and crossing the terrain along various trajectories.

How to prepare skis for skating

The main elements to look out for are: surface, pattern and special lubricants. The drawing is applied by the manufacturer himself. For hard snow, fine "pile" is suitable, and coarse relief is suitable for soft and thawed snow.

But our task lies in the correct processing of the sliding zone itself. If this is done incorrectly, then as a result of increased friction, an artificial obstacle to movement will be created. Will have to spend more strength, correct execution the stroke technique will be violated, the tool itself will be subject to increased wear, damage and structural damage are possible.

Cleaning and handling

This is a very laborious and time-consuming procedure that must be taken as seriously as possible. In the process, inadvertently, you can even damage the inventory, so be careful and thrifty.

Algorithm of actions

For initial cleaning, brush over the surface. A tough one with a brass base will suit us. If you don't have one at hand, steel will do. Remember that you cannot do reverse movements, only translational ones. That is, we move our hand only in one direction, from toe to heel. V otherwise the drawing may be damaged. It is also not worth moving away from the trajectory, strictly parallel actions repeating the structure.

The second stage is priming. For this purpose, we will need a primer paraffin, which must be applied in an even layer. Next, we need heat treatment to melt it. Either a special iron or a regular home iron will do. But set it to a low temperature, otherwise you can accidentally damage your inventory. The threshold is 150 degrees.

Now run a solid scraper all the way down to break up and scrape off the wax layer. Clean the central groove too; this requires a thin stylus. Although, in principle, you can use any fairly thin object. Only without a sharp end, like in a screwdriver. Remember about being careful.

Then, in order to get rid of the remnants of the primer, we need a hard brush. But not with steel bristles, but with nylon bristles. There is no longer any need to work only through forward movements and at a strict angle. No damage can be done with all the desire.

Main part. It consists in the application of "warm" paraffin, which gives our sports tool its protective properties. It is applied all according to the same technique as the previous one. Moreover, several layers are used. Remember that each new layer can only be applied at the moment when the previous one has already completely frozen. This will take 15-20 minutes.




The last step is to remove the wax. Actually, the same thing that we did after the primer. First we go through the scraper, and then we move on to the brush. We carefully and methodically remove all residues.

Accelerator application

There are several types of products, and the method of their application has a number of key differences. Therefore, first select the specific one, and then move on to the method.

Solid

Preparing skis at home with its application is a fairly easy process. You can process the inventory only after you finish working with paraffin and remove the remnants. Rub the accelerator evenly over the entire surface, and then rub it in with a special thermal plug. Continue the procedure until you feel a rise in temperature from friction. After that, let your result take hold, wait about half an hour or forty minutes. Then remove everything with a hard brush. After that, the process can be started over. For best results repeat the cycle 4-5 times.

Fluorocarbon powder

It should be applied not after the base paraffin, but already on final stage... When you have finished waxing for the specific weather and type of snow.

In fact, you just need to sprinkle it on the surface. The layer should not be continuous, it is enough to cover about half of the total area. Next, we spread our powder over the entire area with a sponge, roller or other object. And the last step is to process it using temperature. An iron through cheesecloth will help again. The resulting accelerator should be removed no earlier than half an hour later.

Emulsions

This type is also applied at the final stage, like the previous one. It is only necessary to grind the substance evenly and leave it alone for a few minutes. Usually 4-5 is enough. After that, we arm ourselves with a cork and begin to rub in with smooth movements. Do not apply too much pressure, the intensity is important, not the application of force. When the emulsion warms up, we stop the process and wait for about half an hour. And, accordingly, we delete it.

How to prepare classic skis

Unlike the ridge style, where paraffin needs to be applied tightly, even covering the pads, in this case we need to apply protective substances and accelerators only on the sliding surface, and mainly on the toe and heel. After all, only straight lines are meant.

Slip zone treatment

We apply paraffin in the same way, grind, heat and so on. The only question is where exactly to put our efforts. Actually, we need to determine the effective part - the one that will be in contact with the snow - near the toe and heel. But how do you know a specific range? There is no general standard. It depends on the hardness of the material and its elasticity. And also from the weight of the athlete.

Finding the effective zone is quite simple - put on your skis, and then lock yourself in a straight position. All that remains is for the second person (whom you prudently ask for help in advance) to slip a sheet of paper or cardboard, maybe even matter, under the bottom surface of the sports tool. And marked the parts where it doesn't touch the floor. We do not need them, respectively.

Solid ointments

To fix such a substance tightly on a plane, first prime it. You will also need a base ointment - a primer. It is applied with simple movements, as if we are smearing a sheet of paper with glue. Spread the entire length of the effective part evenly and smoothly, without areas of accumulation.

Then, using the iron, we melt the layer and wait a few minutes until it solidifies completely. We now have a roughened structure that will hold the solid ointment firmly in place. It is applied in the same way, but without thermal effects. We just rub it with a cork.

Liquid ointments, klisters

The key difference here is the heating process. In the same way, we place the first layer of the primer klister, and on top we apply the main one, for a specific weather. But without waiting and heating with an iron. We will be warming up with a hairdryer and all at once. Under low temperature, about 5-10 minutes. Then we wait for hardening for 7-8 minutes.

Cleaning the sliding surface

Cleaning is an important aspect of taking care of your sports property. Ideally, this should be done once every 3-4 arrivals or a couple of times per season. It is possible more often, but less often - it is not recommended.

To do this, we need base paraffin, which is heated by an iron. After that, all litter and impurities rise above the level of the substance. And they can be easily removed with a scraper, it is most logical to use acrylic.

Brushing

Why, in principle, is this necessary? We said that for better grip on snow, manufacturers apply a certain structure, the so-called pattern. These are small grooves that can be easily filled with any strengthening or cleaning agent. And it is simply impossible to get it out with a scraper.

This is where stiff bristled brushes come in handy. But remember that with strong pressure, we simply bend the bristles, and they begin to move parallel to the grooves, that is, they do not penetrate them. Therefore, cleaning must be carried out strictly at right angles so that the pile penetrates into each recess.

Always brush thoroughly after working with a scraper;

Take brass or steel, as well as nylon;

Fix the useful part with tape or paper, but not with tape;

It is better to use an iron for ointments, because an ordinary household appliance is difficult to regulate in terms of temperature accuracy.

Getting ready for the competition

This is not to say that amateurs will not need this information. No, everyone can use such methods. But, if amateurs can neglect them, then for serious performances you have to be fully armed.

Primer

The procedure is carried out in two stages. The first is working with soft paraffin, all technical details are described above. We apply, melt, remove. This process is necessary to get rid of debris and dirt. You can repeat the procedure a couple of times for reliability.

And in the second stage, we are already rubbing in the middle layer, which will act as a primer. And here, too, we need several approaches. The bigger, the better. But do not fall into fanaticism, 4-5 times, more than enough.

Considering the fact that it is in this aspect that beginners make the vast majority of mistakes that can become critical during serious races, we will give some detailed recommendations.

Temperature and its influence

It is worth knowing that too much heat is, in principle, unacceptable. Critical is considered to be 150 degrees Celsius. But it is better to keep the mark of 100-120 degrees.

If you notice or smell smoke, stop work immediately. This means that the plastic is close to deformation, since the paraffin began to smoke.

You need to melt the substance from the middle towards the edges, and not from the beginning to the end. And be especially careful in areas where the thickness of the plastic is minimal. There is a very high risk of deformation and damage.

How can corks and brushes be heated

The key to success is intensity and frequency change. Use alternately different degrees of speed of revolution, and in addition, different application of force.

But in this aspect, zeal beyond measure is unacceptable. If you feel that, putting your hand on the plastic, you simply cannot hold it for a long time because of the heat, you should stop.

Cycling

This is the process of flattening the plastic. We will need it in cases where, due to oxidation or improper operation, the surface has already been completely deformed or oxidized. In this case, only cycling will help. Scrape and remove the plastic layer with a scraper.

Remember that we are also removing the structural pattern, so it will need to be reapplied by hand.

How to properly prepare skis at home, video

At the end of our review, we will provide some basic tips that will be of interest to beginners who are not familiar with all the tricks of winter care. sports equipment.

If you do not ride often, inexpensive quick-drying lubricants can be used. They do not need heat treatment, they harden themselves in just five minutes. True, the duration of the effect is greatly reduced, only 5-6 kilometers.

Glide is not the only thing that matters when riding. It is worth checking the fasteners, removing debris and possible rust.

When choosing a substance, keep your goal in mind. If you are participating in competitions, then the choice of accelerators will be justified. And if you are going for a walk, this is clearly unnecessary.

The first couple of weeks after the purchase, the factory pile may remain on the product. If not removed on your own, it will be mild, but still reduce glide efficiency.

For winter outdoor activities, it makes sense to take care not only of equipment, but also of warm clothes. The Stayer brand offers suits in which to play sports comfortably, dry and not cold.

Conclusion

Not only equipment that has been used for a long time needs maintenance. Preparing your skis after purchase is equally important. Remember that for the best effect, you should take good care of your property at all stages and at all periods. If you start leaving only on the eve of the competition, then the overall functionality will be at a very low level.

Getting your skis ready for serious competition takes a lot of experience, flair and maybe even luck. Professional ski teams have several people who prepare the skis, measure the humidity and air temperature. But everyone can prepare skis so that they glide well, for amateur skiing. This article was created with the aim of acquainting readers with the technique of applying paraffin, holding ointments, proper treatment of skis with brushes, etc.

Preparation of skating-style skis and the sliding part of classic skis.

For better skiing, the sliding surface of the ski must have a structure similar to the structure of snow, and slip ointments or paraffins must be applied to its surface, which would correspond to the weather conditions. The best ski glide can be obtained if the match between ski structure and wax is optimal.

The task of the ski structure is to minimize the contact of the sliding surface and the frictional force with the snow.

The surface structure is the pattern that remains on the plastic after processing skis on special machines. The structure can also be applied manually by knurling or cutting. The surface with a fine structure is suitable for cold weather and fine-grained snow. For warm weather, skis with a larger structure are used.

Types of ski structures applied with TOKO knurling.

Paraffin waxing on the ski.

If the paraffin is soft enough, then you can simply spread it on the ski. If it is hard, then it needs to be rafted from the iron to the ski. There is an option to warm up a block of paraffin and make a smear on the ski. It doesn't matter which method you use, but enough wax should be applied to evenly cover the ski with a layer of 0.3 to 1 mm.

Melting paraffin wax with an iron.

After applying paraffin, it should be melted and smoothed over the ski with a heated iron. Ironing a ski is a dangerous procedure; you can overheat and ruin the plastic of the sliding surface. The temperature of the iron should be as low as possible, but sufficient to melt the wax. You need to run the iron on the ski quickly, without delays and frequent repetitions. There should always be a layer of paraffin between the iron and the sliding surface; when the sole of the iron and the ski come into contact, the plastic quickly overheats and swells. You cannot save paraffin, because there is a significant risk of ruining your skis. The surface of the iron should be cleaned from time to time with a rag.

Skating ski preparation.

Cleaning and surface preparation.

First, you need to process the sliding surface of the ski several times with a brass or steel brush. You need to brush in one direction, from the toe to the heel of the ski. Then you need to apply a layer of soil paraffin and smooth it with an iron at a low temperature. Then you need to clean the surface of the ski with a scraper. The gutter is also cleaned with a special scraper. After such cleaning, a lot of paraffin remains, so it is necessary to treat the surface with a nylon brush. After this procedure, the surface of the skis must be sufficiently cleaned for further application of base and gliding waxes.

Apply one to three coats of "warm" wax. After the next layer is applied, the paraffin should cool for fifteen to twenty minutes. Then it needs to be brushed with a nylon scraper and brush. When preparing skis for a competition, a special graphite wax must be applied before sliding paraffin.

Apply the paraffin wax appropriate for the weather, then scrape it off with a scraper and brush: first with a horsehair brush, then with a fine steel hair brush - this gives additional structure, and a nylon brush at the end for final polishing.

After completing all the above procedures, the skis are ready for use.

1. Clean the surface from contamination with.	2. Apply base.	3. Smooth the wax evenly over the surface of the ski.
4. Remove the wax from the surface with.	5. Clean the groove with the special one.	6. Clean the remaining wax from the structure with.

Application of accelerators.

Solid accelerator.

Apply paraffin wax appropriate for the weather. Then apply the accelerator. Rub the cork over the surface of the ski until it is warm and set the ski aside for twenty minutes. Then you need to brush the surface. Repeat the procedure two to five times in order for the accelerator to hold better. The accelerator applied in this way must hold up to ten kilometers.

Fluorocarbon powder.

Prepare the sliding surface of the ski and apply base paraffin wax. Scrub it with a scraper and brush. Then apply paraffin for the given weather. Then repeat the procedure with a scraper and brush. Sprinkle the powder evenly over the sliding surface of the ski, then sweep over the surface, melting the powder. The temperature of the iron should be the same as indicated in the instructions for the powder. Then put the ski aside for twenty minutes or more. The final brushing is best done immediately before using the skis.

1. Preheat the sliding surface with.	2. Pour onto surface.	3. Spread the accelerator evenly with the aid.
4. Melt the accelerator.	5. Remove excess accelerator.	6. Buff the surface before running with.

Emulsions.

Apply base paraffin and scrub and brush. Then apply a suitable paraffin for the weather and repeat the cleaning procedure. Then apply the emulsion and let it dry for five to ten minutes. Then rub with a cork until the ski warms up and again leave the ski alone for twenty minutes. After that, you can proceed to the final surface treatment with a brush.

1. Pre-polish the ski surface. Use the yellow side.	2. Spray at a distance of 10 cm from the ski and allow to dry at room temperature for 15 minutes.	3. Polish the surface with the white side.	4. Before the race, additionally polish the surface with a special one.

Preparation of classic style skis.

Preparation of the sliding surface.

The preparation of the sliding surface is carried out in the same way as the preparation of skating-style skis, but without processing the skis under the block. Do not apply paraffin under the last, only apply it to the toe and heel of the ski. You can calculate the length of the last yourself, and for this you need an assistant. To do this, you need to fasten on the skis on a flat floor and stand evenly on both feet. Ask an assistant to slide a piece of paper under the ski block and mark on the shoe where the sheet will rest against the sliding surface. This will determine your individual length of the effective repulsion surface. If you choose skis that are too rigid for your weight, then the length of the pads can be more than 70-75 cm - this will have a bad effect on the dynamic characteristics of the ski - you will not be able to push off with high quality and will lose sliding speed. Select skis according to your weight and level of skiing.

The length of the pushing surface of a classic ski depends on the weight of the skier and on the stiffness of the skis, but should not be more than indicated in the figure.

Solid holding ointments.

Sand the pad for better adhesion of the ointment to the ski surface. This will make the ointment last longer. For the bottom layer, a ground ointment is used. Apply one layer of warmed ointment suitable for weather conditions, then smooth it out with an iron. Then a holding ointment is applied, which is also selected according to weather conditions. It is applied in four to six layers in the holding area. Each layer is rubbed with a cork.

1. Roughen the surface under the shoe with fine emery paper and then remove any dust from the surface.	2. Apply.		3. Rub the base ointment evenly into the surface with.
4. Apply the desired pad to the ski block.		5. Rub the ointment. It is recommended to apply at least 3-4 layers of ointment and rub each layer separately.

Liquid ointments - klisters.

You need to clean the block as in the previous section. Then apply a layer of base klister, and on top a layer of klister for the given weather. This procedure is best done indoors. Then you need to warm up the layers of the klister with a hairdryer. Before using skis, cool them in the fresh air.

1. Roughen the surface under the last with fine emery paper and remove dust from the surface.	2. Apply.		3. Rub the klister and let it cool in the cold. Clean the iron from the remains of the base klister.
4. Apply in the area of ​​the shoe.		5. Rub the klister or fingers.

Cleaning the sliding surface.

It is easiest to clean the pad of ointment residues with an acrylic scraper. You can also use for this procedure. Apply it to the surface of the ski, wait half a minute and wipe off with paper.

The sliding surface of the ski should be cleaned several times per season. Apply the primer wax gently, then melt it. The dirt should rise to the surface and can be easily removed along with the paraffin with a scraper. Then apply a suitable weather wax. It is better not to use solvent for cleaning skis, as after it you need to reapply ground paraffin. But the use of a solvent will be necessary if the klister hits the sliding surface of the ski..

For applying paraffin, it is best to use a special one. Because an ordinary household iron does not give an exact temperature. If you stop the iron at one point, or run it too often in the same place, you can ruin your skis.
- Before applying the glide ointment, swipe from the tip to the heel of the ski.
- After cleaning the surface, treat it as thoroughly as possible.
- can be used only in the holding areas, in no case do not apply it in places where slip paraffin is applied.
- When using, it is best to reduce the holding area by 3-4 centimeters and limit it with tape or fixed paper sheet. Do not use tape - it will leave sticky marks.
- Experience is very important in preparing skis. Use different combinations of ointments in your workouts and you will find the best option for competitions.
- Paraffin protects the sliding surface. For long-term storage, always apply, preferably.

Brushing the sliding surface.

Modern machining of the ski sliding surface gives it a certain structure. This structure allows water and air to drain well when rubbed against the snow, which ensures good glide. Therefore, it is very important to thoroughly clean the grooves of the structure from the remnants of the ointment in order to ensure the maximum gliding quality.

Paraffin waxed ski structure. All pores and grooves are filled with hot paraffin wax.	The structure of the ski is treated with a scraper. There is still a lot of paraffin in the recesses, which will interfere with moisture removal.	Ski structure after brushing. Several types of brushes can be used to clean and polish the surface to a perfectly clean condition.

After paraffin is applied to the sliding surface and removed with a scraper, the grooves of the structure remain filled with paraffin. In order to completely clean them, you must use brushes. They are tame and. The use of stiff metal or nylon brushes completely removes wax residues.

When using a brush (of any kind), do not press it too tightly against the sliding surface of the ski. The most effective way to remove paraffin is from brushes whose villi are at right angles. If you press too hard on the brush, the fibers will begin to bend and slide over the surface instead of cleaning it.

For cleaning skis of old grease and preparing it for applying new grease, metal brushes are best. Hard metal fibers perfectly remove the remnants of new ointments, dirt and plastic oxidation products, thereby opening pores on the sliding surface, which contributes to better absorption of new ointments.

Metal brushes are also needed to improve the glide properties of the skis. Skis that have been sanded should be brushed (preferably with steel bristles). After this treatment, the structure of the sliding surface will become better, since the brush will remove burrs and other dirt and irregularities.

Preparing skis for the competition.

First of all, the surface of the skis should be primed.
- Then apply graphite paraffin by hot method. This movement prevents multiple layers of wax from mixing and increases the lubrication time.
- Next, cool the ski to room temperature, and then scrape it.
- Brush the surface with a horsehair rotary brush, and then a hand brush with a fine metal bristle.
- Then proceed with the hot application of the weather-appropriate paraffin.
- Then hydrocarbon or low-fluoride paraffin is applied, it binds best to the previous layer of paraffin and the porous surface of the ski.
- Let this layer cool, work with a scraper and the same brushes.
- Then apply high-fluoride paraffin using a hot method.
- Let it cool and repeat the procedure with a scraper and brushes.
- The preparation process is completed with the application of a fluorocarbon grease that is suitable for the weather conditions.
- After that, the sliding surface should be treated with polishing brushes.

If you are using a fluorocarbon lubricant, it is best to have a second set of brushes. The brushes you use with paraffin wax should not be used when handling fluorocarbon grease.

Competition ski primer.

In the open air, the plastic of the ski sliding surface begins to oxidize and loses its ability to absorb ointments. This can be seen by the resulting gray coating. To avoid this process, after cleaning the skis, a layer of ground paraffin should be applied.
Clean the old ointment from the surface of the ski with a brush. Rotary is desirable, but any other is possible, but always with a metal pile. Don't be afraid to spend your time pretreating the ski surface with a fine rotary brass or steel brush. After this treatment, the surface of the ski will absorb the grease better, and the grease will last longer. For better result treat the sliding surface with fibertex. It will smooth out minor imperfections and burrs, and the ski surface will become smoother.

Next, you need to apply a layer of soft paraffin to the ski surface. It is best to use soil wax or transport wax, but you can use soft wax for warm weather. Then you need to melt the paraffin with an iron at the temperature specified in the instructions. Let the ski cool and scrub and brush. First with a horsehair rotary brush, then with a fine metal bristle rotary brush. A fine-bristled hand brush can be used instead of the latter. Finish with a gray or white nylon brush.

The procedure described above is called hot cleaning the skis. The soft paraffin wax is removed from the pores of the sliding surface along with old grease and dirt.

After cleaning, you can start priming the sliding surface. Medium hard paraffin is applied to the surface of the ski. Then time is given to cool it down. The remaining paraffin wax is removed with a scraper and brushed as described earlier. This procedure can be repeated several times. The more times you apply paraffin wax, brush it, the better your skis will glide. With each repetition of the procedure, the paraffin will further enter the structure of the sliding surface of the ski, protecting it from oxidation. The brushing process is similar to the skiing process, so when brushing the skis become smoother, which improves their glide.

The temperature that the sliding surface of the skis can withstand.

Do not process a sliding surface with temperatures over 150 degrees. When the temperature is exceeded, the characteristics of the plastic change, it stops absorbing new ointment. In such cases, the ski needs to be looped in order to open the pores in the upper layers of the plastic.

Do not set the iron to too high a temperature. Avoid fumes when melting paraffin wax. Heat the ointment with an iron from the middle to the toe and heel of the ski. The risk of burning plastic is higher where the thickness of the plastic is thinnest. The instructions for each product must indicate the desired temperature.

How the ski surface heats up when using a rotary plug and brushes.

Remember to keep the iron in constant motion. The same goes for the rotary plug. Surface at low speed first. Then repeat the procedure at high rpm. The surface of the ski after processing should be warm, but not hot.

When to cycle your skis.

There are many cases where the sliding surface of skis oxidizes. Therefore, the ointment is not absorbed properly into the sliding surface. But skis can always be looped by removing the plastic layer and applying a new structure. Many skis will deform over time after sanding. The surface becomes very uneven, which leads to a significant decrease in sliding. In such cases, it is best to re-sand the ski and remove the old structure.

Handling Competition Skis.

If you finished preparing your skis only the night before, then before the competition itself it is better to brush them again with brushes. Skis that are not brushed will not provide optimal glide.

Every fan wants to extend the life of his favorite skis winter species sports. To extend the lifespan of cross-country skis for more than one year, it is important to properly and competently care for them.

What does cross-country ski care include? Let's figure it out.

Care is based on the same principle as: we properly operate, store and transport in special covers, monitor the condition of the sliding surface and process it on time. True, you will have to use lubricants more often here.

Preparing new cross-country skis

The initial processing of cross-country skis after purchase takes place according to the following scheme:

• remove the layer of ground paraffin;
• we process the sliding surface with rigid fibertex;
• we apply paraffin and evenly distribute it with a special iron in the direction from toe to heel, without delay;
• remove excess paraffin with a scraper;
• we process the surface with brushes.

Further maintenance will include summer conservation (cleaning and paraffin wax) and periodic lubrication. This is if you bought cross-country skiing without notches. Serrated models do not require lubrication.

Cross-country ski treatment - ointments

With skis for lubrication (without notches), the situation is more complicated. Different types of lubrication are provided for each weather. Terms of use, temperature conditions and method of application are indicated on the boxes. It is important to follow the instructions carefully. For most hobbyists, it is enough to process skis once a month or when the weather changes abruptly. Professionals do this before each race.

Separately, it should be said that ski wax there are 2 types - slip ointments and holding ointments for classic models (prevent kickback and slippage). Skating cross-country skis are treated with sliding ointments as a whole, in the direction from toe to heel. Ointment holding on classic skis applied only in the middle part - on an area about 65-75 cm long under the mountings. For front and back parts use a slip ointment.

Holding ointments can be both liquid and solid. Solid ointments must be freed from the jar and foil, rubbed with them on the holding area on cross-country skis. Further, with a synthetic rubbing, the ointment is rubbed to a thin, even layer. It is better to apply several thin coats than 1-2 thick coats.

Liquid ointments must be squeezed out of the tube on both sides of the groove, and then leveled with a scraper, or thumb arms. Next, the layer, again, is rubbed with synthetic rubbing until smooth. In the case of liquid ointments, a thick layer is just preferable.

To remove old grease, special solvent removers are required. First, remove the old ointment with a scraper, then remove the remnants with a generously moistened paper towel.

Proper ski care is a guarantee of comfortable skiing, as well as your safety and equipment durability.

Today we will talk about the need to care for new skis and what to do with a ski after purchasing it. It is worth saying that the culture of making and preparing skis in modern European industries is extremely high. When purchasing and comparing modern inventory with those produced a dozen years ago, one can note a strong difference in the quality of the final product. Today we will focus more on cross-country skiing in the segment of racing and expert equipment.

For skis of this segment, the level of slip and speed indicators are extremely important, for this we buy fast racing skis. As noted earlier, the quality of modern equipment has greatly improved, and by purchasing a new pair, you can unpack it and boldly go on the track without any preparation. Or you can carry out a series of manipulations so that the ski reveals its full potential.

If you do not have the time and tools for preparing skis, then you can take them to the ski service, where the skis will be prepared in in the best possible way... Well, if you are a keen skier and like to do everything with your own hands, then we will give you a couple of tips for starting preparation.

Initial preparation of new skis

Almost all manufacturers European level provide for sale skis of the racing and expert segment with a protected sliding surface. This protection is of two types:

1. Various protective films that protect the plastic surface from mechanical stress and ultraviolet radiation.
2. Application of conservation paraffin to the surface of the slide, which protects against scratches and ultraviolet radiation, which also provides additional impregnation of the ski, which prevents the plastic from drying out.

The first thing to do before use is to remove the protective film from the ski, if any, and remove the conservation paraffin. Depending on the wax layer, it is removed with an acrylic scraper. Next, with a fine steel brush, you need to make several passes along the sliding surface of the skis in the direction of travel from toe to heel. Further, it is recommended to apply a special wash on the ski, passing from above with a soft nylon brush for deeper penetration of the wash into the sliding surface. For these purposes, it is recommended to keep a separate brush in stock, which will only work with washes.

Leave the ski for 10 minutes, make 5 to 10 passes with a medium-hard nylon brush or a soft nylon brush in the direction of travel of the ski, remove the remnants with fiberlene. This procedure will get rid of small particles after machining the skis on the textured machine. After such treatment, a rather large amount of abraded plastic microfibers remains on the sliding surface, which at first glance may seem ideal. These formations will deprive the skis of perfect glide, creating excess friction.

We will talk about the importance and process of applying structures in this article.

There are several ways to remove lint.

1. Carefully, without much pressure (so as not to damage the applied structure), treat the sliding surface with a sharp metal cycle, and then with fibertex. Then carry out hot cleaning several times using low-melting paraffin, removed in a warm state.
2. Using fibertex made of fine nylon fibers and silicon carbide abrasive particles. To remove the lint, the movements of the fiber-tex sponge can be made in both directions. In order to lift more fibers for subsequent removal with fibertex, it is worth going through the sliding surface with a bronze brush several times from the heel to the toe of the ski. Finish the process with a few passes with Fibertex T266, which contains a softer abrasive. Then you need to use a wash, complete the cleaning with fiberlen and several passes with a soft nylon brush along the direction of the ski from toe to heel.

After these procedures, the skis are ready to apply the base soft-melting paraffin in several layers.

The final finishing of the skis after basic and temperature preparation will take place on the track, you need to walk several tens of kilometers on skis before they show their best glide. You will notice that the glide level will improve each time.

Preparation of skis with paraffins and slip ointments

The modern ski glide surface is made from synthesized High Performance Polyethylene (HPPE). The ski bed is made by pressing crushed polyethylene particles under high pressure to form a crystal lattice with amorphous zones filled with lower density polymers.

HPPE itself does not have a porous structure and does not absorb ski grease, however, under the influence of high temperature, the ointment penetrates into the amorphous zones and is held there. From a chemical point of view, ski lubricant creates conditions for changing the hydrophobic, adhesive, chemical and electrostatic properties of the sliding surface due to changes in surface tension forces, and also provides lubrication, thereby reducing the friction force.

Based on these data, manufacturers of skis and ski lubricants recommend preparing equipment before use, this will allow the skis to fully reveal their speed potential, and you will enjoy the time spent on the track.

The next important step after the de-preservation treatment is the impregnation of skis with base high-melting paraffin. Low melting weather wax is also suitable for these purposes, but for newer skis we recommend using base wax, as it has a lower melting point and is less likely to burn a new ski with an iron.

To prepare skis, we need a ski machine or profile, an iron for lubrication (a regular iron is not suitable for a number of reasons, there is an extremely high risk of overheating the ski core or burning the skid without even realizing it), a steel brush, a nylon brush with hard or soft bristles, acrylic scraper, groove scraper, fiberlene and, of course, the wax itself.

The base paraffin wax is applied hot to the sliding surface of the ski. We set the recommended melting point on the iron, indicated on the package, and we pass on the ski with the iron in one pass, without stopping, from toe to heel.

On average, ironing takes 7 to 10 seconds. Stopping or driving in one place with a hot iron can overheat the sliding surface, which will noticeably reduce the absorption of grease in that area. Prolonged stopping at a high temperature of the iron is fraught with overheating of the ski core, which can lead to swelling or failure of the sliding surface or delamination of ski elements. After the passage, you need to let the ski cool for 10-15 minutes.

Excess wax is removed with an acrylic scraper. First of all, you need to remove the excess from the groove, if suddenly the scraper comes out and goes to the side, then the main sliding surface will be protected with us.

For further work, a main rectangular scraper is used. These scrapers have different thicknesses: 3, 4, 5, 6 mm. If we have a scraper of 3 mm, then we need to make sure that it does not bend during operation. The scraper must always be in a sharp state, thanks to this we cut off the paraffin, and do not squeeze it out of the sliding surface. This is important point, since squeezing out the paraffin with pressure, we can pretty much ruin the structure of the ski. We make a couple of passing movements on the ski without much effort from toe to heel. Next, using a steel brush, we make 5-6 passes from the tip to the heel of the ski without much effort.

Important: the steel brush must always be used in one direction only. If you do not have a steel brush available, you will need to walk with a brass brush.

You need to complete the cleaning with nylon brushes, first of medium hardness, then with a soft bristle, 5-6 passes without pressure, from the toe of the ski towards the heel. Finally, wipe the surface with fiberlene, remove the paraffin dust.

At this point, the impregnation of the base will be completed with us, on top of the impregnating paraffin, either a cold or warm temperature layer is placed, depending on the purpose of the ski and the mode of operation. The procedure for applying weather wax and removing excess wax is the same as described above.

The ski preparation procedure is complete. They are now ready to be waxed or lubricated specifically for the weather or to prepare skis for racing use. After further manipulations with the lubricant, it is recommended to apply a knurling, this need often arises when the weather conditions do not fully correspond to the structure applied to the ski, but we will talk about this in the next article.