Grease

The preparation of skis for skating and classic moves is significantly different, this is due to a number of features and specifics of both the skis themselves and the differences in push-slide phases during these moves.

It is important when preparing skis that their surface must be dry, clean and at room temperature!

There is also a difference in the preparation of plastic and wooden skis(plastic also includes the floor plastic skis). Everything related to the use of paraffins (sliding lubricants), powders, accelerators and other special preparations for preparation is applicable only to plastic skis and skis with a plastic sliding base. As for the ointment, it is applied equally to both wooden and plastic skis.

Lubrication selection is a very complicated procedure, almost an art. Trainers and lubricators of teams spend months, if not years, gaining experience in handling and working with materials and accessories from various manufacturers. Unfortunately, their knowledge and experience is usually kept secret and passed on only to teammates. But in many cities, service centers are already appearing (at the end), at ski resorts and rentals, where the preparation of skis, for a purely symbolic fee, is carried out by specialists. Of course, the cost of such a service will largely depend on the cost of the materials with which the preparation was carried out, but on the other hand, the person will get great pleasure from the skiing itself, receive competent advice, qualified ski care and remove the very problem of selecting lubricant and preparation.

For those who want to prepare their own skis, there are some rules and recommendations outlined below. Basically, when choosing a lubricant, they are guided by their financial capabilities, since often the quality of materials is determined by their price (although exceptions are possible).

The market of lubricants and service materials is becoming more and more saturated every year and the task of the sales assistant is to help the buyer choose the best option... It is generally accepted to consider the "Swix" company as the world leader in the production of lubricants (although it is very conditional and controversial). There are also such foreign brands as: "START", "Briko" and many others, but all of them are distinguished high price materials, if not guaranteed the best result... This is due to the different climatic conditions “here” and in Russia. After all, grease of the same brand, in different climatic zones, in different regions, at the same temperature and humidity, works completely differently, and sometimes does not work at all. Although she could show excellent results. All this applies equally to domestic lubricants. Their choice is not as great as the choice of imported ones, but their price is several orders of magnitude lower, and the quality is sometimes not inferior, and sometimes even superior to imported counterparts.

Among them are: "LUCH" Yekaterinburg, "M VIS" Moscow, "ANCOR" Kirov. Of course, the eminent “Visty” N. Novgorod, which for many years have been the sales leaders in Russia and are popular not so much because of the quality, but because of the price.

Skate course.

Due to the fact that the entire sliding surface of the ski "works" in the skating course, which is associated with the peculiarity of the push, therefore the entire surface is subject to maintenance and treatment. Preparing skis for skating is as follows: paraffin is applied to dry, clean skis, to the entire sliding surface by rubbing, or, if the paraffin is refractory, it is better to apply it by jet-drip from a hot iron, when a bar of applied paraffin is pressed against the sole of a heated service iron. Do not overheat the paraffin! After cooling, the paraffin is removed with a plastic scraper. Residues of small particles of paraffin are “torn out” from the pores of the plastic with hard copper or synthetic brushes. Then the surface is polished with a soft natural bristle brush. This procedure is necessary to give the particles of the fused paraffin a directional structure.

The classic move.

The difficulty of preparing skis for a classic ride lies in the need to use a holding ointment. Before applying it to the sliding ends of the skis (dry and clean), apply a sliding lubricant (paraffin), in the above order, while the block, or as it is also called, the cargo area, is left clean. This is due to the fact that the ointment applied to paraffin in the process of sliding significantly loses its original qualities and, in addition to everything, the duration of its action is reduced by an order of magnitude. Simply put, it simply “does not hold” and very quickly comes off the surface of the ski.

Ointment, like paraffin, is selected according to the temperature and humidity indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. It is applied by rubbing, not too thick layer, "under the block", as some skiers say. Then the applied ointment is rubbed with a natural or synthetic cork until a shiny uniform film appears on the ski surface. You should not "drag" the ointment over the surface of the skis, either up or down.

It is possible to level the ointment with a service iron, while it must be clean (from paraffin residues), and not too hot so as not to overheat the ointment! In general, when choosing inventory, first of all, you need to be based on the wishes of each client and his individual characteristics, such as the length of arms and legs, height and weight, and their proportional ratio. It should be noted the decisive role of the client's financial capabilities in the selection of inventory, lubricants and accessories, because the "limited wallet size" will significantly narrow the choice possible options and models from the offered assortment. Therefore, the selection of equipment, inventory, lubricants and accessories is a creative process, but difficult and time consuming. Although it can be fun both for the sales assistant (if he is well prepared) and for the buyer himself.

Shishkin Pavel Pavlovich
Kirov LLC "Ankor.Sport".

Manufacturers recommend applying waxes in layers, for example SWIX: CH-LF-HF (START: SG-LF-HF). Free of fluoride - light fluoride - high fluoride. Why? It is very important that the sliding surface (SL) is covered with paraffin wax without micro-passes. And paraffins with a high fluorine content not only repel water well, but also wet the plastic and adhere not in the best way. Fluoride-free paraffins adhere better to the joint venture. Therefore, it is correct for the SP of new skis to first wet with CH (SG) paraffin (make the base, the base for the next layers), then with less sticky paraffins. This layer of paraffin performs the function of initial wetting; in the future, the use of precisely fluorine-free paraffin for the base is optional.

The term “layer” serves only to make it easier to explain the essence of the process to the user. In fact, all the layers are melted and the resulting mixture has a very small percentage of paraffin from which to start. Let's recall the application process: I fused a large amount of paraffin on the joint venture, cleaned it with a scraper and brushes to the thinnest layer, then again fill the joint venture with a large amount of more fluoric paraffin. A small amount of CH is remelted with a large amount of LF. Likewise with HF-paraffin. Despite the small amount, the influence of the base paraffin on the properties of the final alloy is still there. Therefore, under the frosty paraffins, a layer of a more low-melting, more plastic paraffin is applied, which prevents overheating and chipping, and hard frosty ones are applied under the warm paraffins with abrasive snow.

What paraffin wax to apply powder on?

Fluorocarbon powders provide the best water repellency and good glide. The problem is the application of a film of fluorocarbon to the ski. Not only does the molten powder poorly wet polyethylene-based plastic, it is also easy to melt the joint venture. In order for the powders to work efficiently and for a long time, an intermediate layer of synthetic fluoride paraffin is required. START recommends applying SFR (powders) to HF paraffin. And according to SWIX recommendations, it is possible not only to bind HF-FC (different powders), but also to bind LF7-FC, LF8-FC and LF10-FC. In practice, no decrease in the stability of the powder layer applied not on the HF, but on the LF SWIX was noticed. This does not mean that the sliding will be the same or that it will always be worse with LF. We have to try. And only to avoid unnecessary uncertainty, amateurs often apply HF under the powders.

Which company is better to roll paraffins?

The problem is solved by brute force, that is, by rolling back many options. There are a great many lubricant manufacturers, no money will be enough to try them all. What should an amateur buy? The most common in stores are SWIX and START. Take them. Recommended set of lubricants for Moscow region corny simple: HF80 START, LF6 SWIX, HF7 SWIX, HF8 SWIX. Frosty paraffins are rolled without additives, warmer ones are suitable for one of the lubrication options on frozen, transformed snow. Other options require wax powder coating. The use of powders, in addition to their excellent work at high humidity, is also justified by the fact that warm paraffins have a problem of wear resistance. Powders increase the stability of the lubricant. I recommend powder F9-20 (± 4 °) from "9th element". To create a continuous coating of the joint venture with fluorocarbon, suspensions (activator F9-01, in particular) and powders, tablets and powders are combined. For example, first rub the ski with a tablet, then the powder is fused. There is no danger of touching the joint venture with a hot iron, there is always a layer. Since only a thin film of fluorocarbon is needed, less powder is used. It is more economical (in the amount of tablet + powder) and safe for SP than working with one powder. I often use the SFR99 (± 9 °) START tablet on its own on not fresh, stale snow and at temperatures colder than recommended for F9-20 powder. Tablet and powder are not the same thing. At least, the conditions for the use of tablets and powders are often divided according to moisture content. START recommends using powders as a top coat at a higher moisture content than tablets.

For Peter In my opinion, picking up the lubricant is easier. The humidity is always high, there is a lot of fresh snow. There are fewer options. The whole line of PHF paraffins from START is good. Polymeric paraffins are also favored by their high dirt-repelling properties, which is important when the ski track is prepared with smoking "Buran". Polymer waxes allow the same lubricant to be used for training and competition. Simply cheaper than conventional fluorocarbon powders, and even more so polymer powders. (You can also get by with a cheaper lubricating iron.) And in most cases without losing glide performance. Only in marathons can a fundamental difference be noticeable. Now PHF paraffins are not produced, but they can still be bought. Something else in the cold, the same HF80.

Have both lines of grease both for St. Petersburg and for Moscow it is very useful. Problems with difficult snow are easier to solve, especially near 0 °. By the way, polymer waxes can be a good base for powders. It is possible to compose the minimum allowable set for an amateur with only three paraffins: HF80 (-7 ° -25 °), PHF600 (-1 ° -6 °) from START and HF7 (-2 ° -8 °) from SWIX. Here PHF600 for high humidity, HF7 for snow, dried at night frost, non-abrasive. Paraffins, if necessary, can be mixed by applying in a checkerboard pattern and melting. In most cases, you will slide well in the cold. Even without powders. And you do not need lubrication for water, because it will not help if you do not have positive skis.

According to Dan Brown sliding / non-sliding is a relative concept, not an absolute one. Don't expect every snow condition to have a lubricant to roll perfectly. Good lubrication will allow you to skate better than other skiers. Brown also writes: keep it simple.

PHF paraffins from the START company are polymeric high-fluoride paraffins. Good at high (> 85% strictly!) Humidity. May replace traditional fluorocarbon powders. (Not at marathons.) START itself writes this in the insert instructions for the PHF200 and PHF400 paraffins! Recommended for use on old and dirty snow. In my experience, PHFs are good for fresh snow that has not had time to lose moisture. The properties of various paraffins are described below, typical test episodes are given. The glide quality was determined in comparison with the glide of skis treated with other lubricants and relative to other skiers.

Paraffins PHF

PHF200 (+ 1 ° + 10 °) is very good. Maximum water and dirt repellency. Soft, pliable. It is cleaned with a brush to a thin film, which is durable, does not loosen for a long time, does not turn gray. I tried it in St. Petersburg on the "Surf" at + 5 °, after the rain. Spring coarse-grained dirty snow. Needles, twigs. After passing 25 km, the paraffin wax is in place, under the block there is barely noticeable whiteness. Rubbed with white paper, the paper remained clean. I didn't get any dirt.

If the spring sun shines on the track, then the 200 rolls perfectly to -6 °. The base is important! Used CH7 (-2 ° -8 °) SWIX. CH7 provides a solid base, without gaps, as evidenced by the continuous oily sheen.

PHF400 (-1 ° + 1 °) disappointed. Turns gray faster than 200. Old snow - by minus, fresh - by plus. Too similar to the PHF600. At temperatures warmer than -1 °, medium-frost skis do not roll on any lubricant. On positive skis, the 200th worked better than the 400th.

PHF600 (-1 ° -6 °) is very good at -2 ° to -6 °. The fresh fluffy snow is great. However, there is fresh snow, which falls in the form of grains, on which the PHF600 slows down. I fell on such snow at a temperature of -2 ° and -6 °.

PHF800 (-6 ° -12 °) is hard, for ease of application it is necessary to grind it into powder. I tried it in Chulkovo near Moscow after a heavy snowfall, at a temperature of -10 °. Rare weather from night heat (-8 °) to daytime frost. I rolled well. The best starter. In St. Petersburg, in its temperature range, it always rolls.

Snow in Moscow and St. Petersburg

There is a difference in the properties of snow near St. Petersburg and in the Moscow region. The Moscow region is drier, the snow is often old. Polymer paraffins, which travel in St. Petersburg almost always, in the Moscow region may not be the best. In the Moscow region, START BM6 paraffin wax with molybdenum is popular, which is impossible to imagine on the fresh St. Petersburg snow. Amateur starts in the Moscow region are more massive, the snow is mixed more. So there is no trace of the fresh one. And often the clay is turned inside out.

Pro sometimes they apply different lubricants to the toe and heel of the ski. This is understandable, because the toe forms a water film, and the heel rolls along the finished one.

For the base at temperatures warmer than -10 ° I recommend CH7 from SWIX (423 REX BLUE is also good, SG4 from START I like less.), for temperatures colder - SG6 from START or LF6 from SWIX. Despite their hardness, they are easy to apply. The manufacturer START recommends using even more refractory SG8 or LF8 as a base for abrasive snow, however, these glass-like paraffins are inconvenient to work with, you can overheat bare plastic. In theory, before applying HF, PHF or nano-paraffin, one should also apply light-fluoride BWLF from START. I think this is superfluous. There is no problem when applying paraffin wax to paraffin wax.

There is no pure snow

Skis melt soot from snow and much more. Dirt settles on the LP and accumulates in the furrows of the structure. Skis must be washed from dirt. If you lubricate dirty skis, you simply spoil the new paraffin, it will lose its gliding properties. The easiest way is to rinse with the base paraffin that you will be using today. Simply apply new wax and scrub with a brass brush. It is even better to clean the structure with an ultra-fine steel brush, wipe off dust with a cloth, and then rinse. Do not store dirty skis for long! For long breaks in skiing, the skis must be covered with pure paraffin. Otherwise, the wettability of the plastic with paraffin will be severely affected, which will certainly affect the wear resistance of the lubricant.

Service paraffin

It is convenient to wash the joint venture with low-melting service paraffin. For example, BP99 SWIX or SOFT SKI-GO. The service paraffin is well washed off (the main thing is safe for the joint venture) and ends up on the iron. It must be ironed, otherwise it will burn. Service paraffin is also applied to new skis on initial stage preparation. Then, dissolving in a more refractory base paraffin, the service paraffin will serve as its guide into the shallow grooves of the structure.

Subtle matter

Only the thinnest layer of paraffin is durable! The thick layer is quickly loosened, turns gray. I use a hand brass brush to create a thin layer. For soft paraffins, I prefer the combination horsehair and white nylon rotary brush and the revolving drill. I brush with half a horsehair brush until the white powder stops flying off the skis. Then lightly 2-3 passes with an ultra-fine manual steel brush to work out the structure. Then I polish it with white nylon. Exact adherence to SKI-GO recommendations. Quote from the manual: “Only a very thin film of the last applied lubricant should remain on the surface of the grooves of the structure. Skis that are poorly brushed will not provide optimal glide. "

Application of hard frost wax from a bar is difficult, leads to a large consumption of paraffin. Powder versions of VAUHTI, SKI-GO, SWIX frost paraffins are convenient and economical.

How to grind paraffins into powder yourself?

We melt the bar on the iron, pour drops of molten paraffin into a bowl of water. Collect the resulting paraffin flakes and dry them on paper. Then, in small portions, grind on a clean electric coffee grinder. It is not necessary to throw away the grinder afterwards - the wax residues can be easily removed. Small particles of paraffin require much less heat to melt than a bar. It is easy to distribute them evenly on the slide. We melt with an iron, pressing the powder on top. Reduced wax consumption, less scrubbing and brushing. It becomes convenient to use frosty paraffin.

Important details

When choosing a lubrication option, it is necessary, first of all, to take into account the condition of the snow, its structure. How long ago did it fall out, what was the diurnal temperature variation? The large diurnal variation of temperatures is rapidly aging the snow. The way of preparing the ski track is important. If the ski track is prepared with a snowcat, then the lower old snow is mixed with fresh upper snow. Moreover, they melt it, spending rather big machine power. If the track is rolled away with your feet, then there is more fresh snow on top. There are many snow conditions, for example, fresh snow for lubrication is not the same as fresh falling snow. And falling snow is in the form of fluffy large flakes and in the form of small grains ...

It is advisable to check the sliding of skis and lubricants on the snow of exactly the structure and degree of rolling that is supposed to be at the competition.

One rule for choosing paraffins

The recommendations of the lubricant manufacturers look something like this: for new and old snow in the temperature range from ... to ... And the temperature ranges of several paraffins of the same line intersect. This allows the lubricant to be more precisely adapted to the structure of the snow.

For most paraffins, the cold end of the temperature range for use corresponds to fresh snow, and the warm end to old.(Not always, there are paraffins, the purpose of which is snow of only a certain structure, which is necessarily written in the manufacturer's manual.)

And with fresh snow it is necessary to try paraffin of a colder range, and with old snow - a warmer one.
This does not apply to icy, aggressive snow. For him, paraffin needs a hard, frosty, fluorine content is often unimportant. A molybdenum supplement is desirable.

With paraffins, structures, ski plots in the most general sense, everything obeys a single rule: new, fluffy snow does not adhere tightly to the joint venture, like a blotter takes water from a water film, requires a harder paraffin, a smoother structure, a smoother plot for sliding, what follows from the thermometer readings.

Ski wax is needed to improve the gliding moment. Whichever skis we ski - classic or for skating- without additional lubrication, the skis will give too good grip on the snow. But good grip is needed only when the wheels are moving on the asphalt. In order to develop speed on a snowy slope, it is best to have minimal traction. In the case of flat skiing, the reduction in friction helps to reduce the forces applied by a person when driving.

What are paraffins

Paraffins are hydrocarbon mixtures formed as a by-product of petroleum refining. Paraffinic formulations have varying degrees of viscosity. There are:

• soft (liquid) paraffins that melt at room temperature;
• solid - melt when heated within 70 ° C;
• crystalline - turn into a liquid state at temperatures above 70 ° C.

Functionally, paraffins are in most cases lubricating water-repellent substances. They are added to various mixtures to give the appropriate consistency and properties. For example, petroleum jelly is made on the basis of petroleum hydrocarbons.

Paraffins are used in technical lubricants. These substances have found their use in skiing as a means of improving the glide of skis and snowboards.

Ski wax

Ski wax is traditionally divided into:

• lubricants for cold rolling at snow temperatures below -12 ° C;
• lubricants for skiing at a snow temperature of -12 ° C ... -2 ° C;
• warm lubricants for snow with temperatures above -2 ° C.

Fluorine is the key material for better glide at high temperatures. The less fluorine, the more severe frost (and lower humidity) the paraffin is designed for. Conversely, high fluoride greases are designed for mild, wet weather.

There are multipurpose greases that are formulated to provide good glide on all types of snow. For example, TOKO Irox Fluoro spray, although it is low in fluoride, is designed for use in a wide temperature range 0 ° C ... -30 ° C. In addition to fluorine, ski lubricants include: silicone, various salts, oxidized metals.

Using paraffins on plastic skis

It would seem that plastic is a good sliding material and without lubricants. In contrast, for example, from traditional wooden skis, which, due to the low density of the material, provided better grip and, accordingly, drove worse.

The new skis really glide really well. But as you skate, microcracks appear on the sliding surface and edges. Particles of ice and snow spoil the plastic. And although these changes are not noticeable to the human eye, under a microscope the surface of such a ski resembles a mountain landscape. The sliding properties are deteriorated due to such a landscape.

In order to fill all these microdamages, restore the perfectly slippery surface of the ski, and use hydrocarbon lubricants.

Why choose liquid paraffins

It should be noted right away that paraffins in liquid form, in terms of their functionality, do not have any advantages over hard waxes. The purpose of all paraffin waxes is to impregnate the sliding surface of the ski. To ensure the most efficient rolling, all waxes, including liquid ones, require heat treatment after application.

Liquid paraffins are available in 2 types:

1. liniment;
2. spray can.

Paraffin in the form of a cream-ointment, in general, from the point of view of the user does not have any differences from solid types.

The aerosol form provides additional ease of application. True, part of the product is sprayed by, which is why the consumption of paraffins-aerosols is always greater.

Application of liquid paraffins

To apply liquid paraffin, the ski must be clean and dry. Particles of dirt, water, ice, which are clogged in the micropores of the sliding layer, will not allow the wax to be applied correctly.

With heat treatment

Waxing of heat-treated skis, as a rule, is carried out between skiing in a home-garage environment. This initially assumes that the skis are clean and dry.

1. We heat the iron to 150 ° WITH.
2. We spray liquid paraffin on the ski sliding layer. We mean that different types skis suggest a different model of lubrication. For skating skis, the entire sliding surface is lubricated. Classic skis are waxed, bypassing the central part.
3. We iron the ski in the direction from the toe to the heel.
4. Let the ski cool and dry at a temperature not lower than 0 ° C not less than 10 min.
5. We pass the layer with the applied lubricant with a brush.

As a result of these manipulations, the heated paraffin penetrates into the pores of the plastic, fills them, the microscopic "landscape" of the sliding surface is leveled. The wax remaining on the surface is superfluous. We remove it with a brush.

Ideally, this cycle should be repeated up to 10 times. The fact is that scrubbing with a brush, in addition to removing the surface layer, also extracts a part of the "useful" paraffin that has filled the microcracks. When we repeat waxing several times in a row, we better “tamp” the unevenness of the ski with wax, fill the irregularities and microcracks better.

Without heat treatment

Often we do not have the opportunity to use an iron, we are limited in time, and it is necessary to lubricate the skis, because they slide poorly. Manufacturers of liquid paraffins offer the theoretical possibility of using their lubricants without heat treatment.

1. We dry the ski.
2. We clean the sliding layer with a brush to remove dust and dirt from the pores of the plastic.
3. We wipe it, let it dry a little.
4. Apply a LITTLE coat of grease.
5. Let stand for 3-5 minutes.
6. Rub it with a cork, pad or whatever we are used to using.
7. Let stand for 10 minutes.

If you do put in too much grease, then you should use a brush and remove the excess layer. However, lubricant manufacturers warn that with cold wax application, final brushing is not essential.

And if it does, it will last no more than 5 minutes. Proper cold lubrication takes about 1 hour. The presence of the sun or some kind of drying room is desirable.

You should be aware that, even if all of the above conditions are met, cold waxing is always an emergency measure, which in terms of its effectiveness will never be compared with the classic version of heat treatment.

The cost of liquid paraffins

Paraffins in the form of ointments cost about $ 5 for 25 g. Sprays, especially those with high fluoride, can cost up to $ 40 for a 50 ml bottle.

Ski types do not affect the choice of one or another paraffin. However, it should be remembered that, unlike the skating course, the sliding surface classic skis requires lubrication with additional holding ointment. Since traditional skiing involves the need for repulsion and, accordingly, requires better ski grip on the snow at the place of application of force, the holding ointment is applied in the center of the ski.

When purchasing skis, you must understand that you will have to lubricate them periodically. Accordingly, the choice of lubricant depends on how often you will be.If your goal is a few hours winter sports on a weekend, the time and cost of keeping the skis in good shape is very small. But if you intend to engage skiing professionally, get ready to spend a lot of time. Accelerators, emulsions, pastes and ski wax - get ready to splurge.

What ski lubricant do we need?

Today, lubricants can be divided into two types:

1. Slip lubricants
2. Holding lubricants

In the classic course, the nose and heel of the ski are maintained in proper condition with the help of sliding lubrication - paraffins. But the block (the central part of the ski) is treated with a holding ointment - this will minimize the recoil during the stroke. Conventionally, the central part of the ski is a distance of 50 cm from the heel of the boot to the toe of the ski.

But skis used for skating need to be treated only with sliding lubricants along the entire length.

Conditionally, the preparation of one pair of skis from professionals is divided into the following stages:

• cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, cleaning with a brush)
• the application of one or two layers of weather paraffin for skis (after applying the skis must be allowed to stand at room temperature for at least 10 minutes)
• removal with a plastic scraper
• brushing
• polishing

Ski lubricants slip

Most athletes and amateurs often opt for paraffin for skis, however, venerable pros also resort to additional accelerators - powders, emulsions and pastes. They are consumed rapidly and are, to put it mildly, not cheap. If you do not intend to associate your life with skiing, you should not spend money on expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and sometimes an order of magnitude better. The only drawback of some domestic paraffins is that they disappear faster than imported ones.

The shelf life of sliding lubricants is practically unlimited. However, don't buy too many "for the future."

Descent to alpine skiing in areas with a humid climate (Moscow or Sochi) will require the purchase of fluorinated paraffin. If the climate humidity is below 50%, feel free to purchase paraffins without fluoride.

Ski grease holding

On sale there are solid lubricants in jars and liquid ointments in tubes. The quality of the ointment is determined by the fact that it allows the skier to push off without problems. When the skier makes a push, there is pressure on the snow under the block, snow crystals enter the ski grip lubricant layer and the ski, pressing against the snow layer, allows you to start. But immediately after the push, the snow crystals should come out of the ointment layer, which will allow the skier to glide.

Pro skiers spend a lot of time experimenting with ski grip lubricants. Even a special alternation of layers of ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern. In order for the descent on alpine skiing to be smooth and easy, for some time you should pay Special attention on the move and note difficulties while moving. Plus, ski boots are not an accessory to save on. Only high-quality shoes will make you feel the ride properly.

What do we need besides ski wax?

There are many additional accessories on sale, the purchase of which depends only on whether you are an amateur or a beginner.

You will definitely need a plastic scraper - it is necessary to remove excess paraffin. A fragment of a transparent school ruler, by the way, is not particularly worse than a professional one, which will cost you several hundred rubles.

A nylon brush is also a must. It is used to remove wax residues when you have already removed the base coat with a scraper. If you use hot paraffin wax, then there is no way without a hard brush.

Rough fibertex (Fibertex) - used to remove lint from plastic on new skis. But believe me - the residual lint will completely disappear after a couple of months of skiing. Fibertex is not too expensive. Optional to purchase.

Fiberlene is a non-woven material that is used for the final polishing of skis. If you find a piece of felt, a nylon stocking or a simple woolen sock at home, then fiberlen will not be useful to you.

Sandpaper - for the ointment to hold better, you need to sand the ski block. Almost any household skin with the appropriate grain will work. Therefore, there is no need to acquire something special. Remember to skin under the block every 30 km or after walking on ice.

Metal cycle - it is better to refrain from self-processing of skis with cycles. Professionalism and experience are important here. It is better to give your skis for such a purpose in the hands of an experienced master. Moreover, most modern skis are already produced with a structure that does not require scraping. And it is possible to resort to this procedure only when burnt plastic appears.

Knurling, used to apply structure to the sliding surface - not needed. The versatile structure of modern skis is more than enough.

A copper brush is needed to remove frost paraffins - only needed when applying hard frost paraffin. When using liquid ointments, there is no need for a brush. Seasoned tip - Apply gel or frost accelerator, it will also eliminate the need to use a copper brush.

Rinse - needed to remove the holding ointment under the block. Indispensable for removing slipping wax, provided that you do not have the opportunity to use hot cleaning of skis.

Rubbing (cork) is required! It is used for leveling holding ointments (plastic) and for applying accelerators (cork).

Now you are armed with the most essential knowledge regarding the use of paraffins and ointments. To make your downhill skiing or walking in the woods as enjoyable as possible, sports equipment need to follow. This is the key to your carefree vacation.