Bicycle hub with graphite grease. Tip: don't forget about general bike cleaning

In the absence of lubrication, dirt and water do their imperceptible work: traces of rust appear, the working surfaces of parts are erased, and jammed elements are destroyed. To prevent the bike from failing on the road, you need to lubricate all of its working units in the garage. Bicycle lubricants prevent the formation of rust by shielding metal surfaces from the air. A layer of lubricant applied to mating surfaces significantly reduces wear and friction losses between parts.

How to lubricate a specific bike part?

There is no shortage of lubricants for bicycles, as well as for other cars. All existing lubricants can be divided into several types.

  1. Consistent. Long-lasting, tolerate significant low and high temperatures. But they are difficult to apply, it is difficult to remove the excess. A lot of dust and dirt sticks to them.
  2. Liquid. It is convenient to apply with a syringe or oiler, you can pour it into the assembled units. The leftovers can be easily wiped off. Cons: they drain from the parts to be coated, change viscosity with temperature changes.
  3. Two-component. In the form of a liquid, it can be accurately applied, in an aerosol state, it penetrates into closed places of the lubricated unit. Cons: aerosol oil is sprayed past the part to be coated, after lubrication, you need to wait until the solvent dries.

Greases (thick) greases

Sold in cans and tubes. This type of lubricant belongs to plastic substances. Bicycle grease is used in slow spinning gears. It is she who needs to handle bearings in all nodes of the bicycle, threaded connections, arm bushings. Thick oils are used in the preservation of the chain for long-term storage.

How to choose a specific thick oil, we will consider in more detail.

Lithium oils

Lithium-containing greases are usually yellow or red in color. Lithium compounds in the lubricating oil are required to increase slip and extend the temperature range at which the oil remains operational. Lithium oils operate at temperatures ranging from -50 ° C to + 180 ° C. Examples of lithium-containing greases are domestic LITOL, TSIATIM, FIOL, SHRUS. They are washed off with water, but for a long time - within a year.

Domestic grease No. 158 has high adhesion, it is practically not washed off with water. She has a distinctive blue color. This color is given by the pigment - copper phthalocyanine, which is a thickener and antioxidant additive at the same time. During operation, this oil cleans cups, cones, and bearing balls to a shine. Has a temperature range from -40 ° C to + 120 ° C. In the absence of # 158 grease, you can lubricate the rear suspension arm bushings, carriage assembly, fork ball bearings with other thick oils.

The imported lithium grease from the English company Weldtite Products contains Teflon in addition to lithium.

Lithium greases have a common disadvantage - they chemically interact with aluminum.
Their overall advantage is more low price, in comparison with other types of greases.

Calcium oils

Calcium-based oils are usually yellow or green in color. Such lubricants adhere well to metal parts, so they are washed off for a long time with water. Examples of lubricants with calcium are domestic Solidol, Uniol. They should be used for wheel bearings, pedal ball bearings, brake levers and other bicycle parts that are often exposed to water.

That's just, in no case should the bushing with the brake mechanism be lubricated with grease and other thick substances. If the hub brakes, due to the inexperience of the cyclist, have been lubricated with thick grease, they must be flushed with kerosene and dripped with liquid oil.

Calcium greases can be coated on all metals to protect against corrosion, since the reactivity of calcium is very low compared to lithium.

The disadvantage of calcium greases is a narrow, in comparison with lithium, temperature range at which they save their properties - from -30 ° C to + 50 ° C.

Graphite greases

Graphite powder itself is an anti-friction agent. After the oil that binds it dries or burns out, it will remain on the surface of the lubricated part. The remaining thin layer of graphite will ensure good sliding of the two contacting parts, even those that are under heavy load. An example of a graphite lubricant is the domestic USSA oil.

Graphite oils are suitable for use on threaded connections and rear axle arm bushings. There was a time when bike enthusiasts used graphite to weld chains in it. It was a laborious and time-consuming job, in which you need to ensure that the oil does not boil and, as a result, does not collapse. With a large selection of two-component lubricants, there is no need to weld the chain in graphite or other thick lubricant.

The disadvantage of graphite grease is that it heavily stains everything it comes into contact with.

Technical Vaseline

Unlike medical and cosmetic, technical petroleum jelly undergoes the least purification. It is not transparent, and its color can vary from yellowish to dark brown. Technical Vaseline better than other lubricants shields metal parts from air and water, therefore it protects them remarkably from corrosion. Vaseline perfectly lubricates all the cables of the bike and stays on them for a long time.

Boric Vaseline contains free acids that can degrade chrome-plated bearing and foot surfaces.

Liquid oils

They are sold in barrels for bottling or in small cans and oil bottles. Bicycle fluid grease comes in a variety of viscosities. Examples of lubricants with different fluidity are industrial oil, spindle oil, automotive oil. Car oil can be used to lubricate the pivots of brake levers, brake levers, speed switches, ratchet ball bearings. It is suitable for bicycle hubs: it is enough to pour 2-3 drops of car oil into them once a month to renew the lubricant. However, overfilling should be avoided, as oil leaking from the bike components forms a sticky mud with the dust. Oil on the tires destroys the rubber.

A less viscous, industrial or spindle oil is poured into the bicycle fork, like the working fluid of an oil shock absorber, or lubricated with it on the legs of the fork.

Liquid oil can be used to coat cables, but it does not adhere well to exposed surfaces and will need to be applied frequently. The lubricant should be renewed 1-2 times a month or every time the bike has been exposed to rain.

Two-component greases

Supplied in aerosol cans and oil cans. A two-component lubricant consists of a thick oil and a solvent that dilutes the oil. This combined cycle lubricant has the same fluidity as water and easily flows into the inside of the assembled elements. After application, the solvent evaporates and only thick oil remains inside. Therefore, it is convenient for her to lubricate the chain, bushings of the chain tension wheels, derailleur pins, brake lever supports and other closed parts of the bicycle.

The oil film that remains after spraying from a can is difficult to wash off with water, so two-component lubricants can be applied to the surface of the bike to protect it during winter riding or long-term storage.

Silicone Grease

Silicone oils can be purchased as a spray, liquid, or grease. This variety is necessary for ease of application. Despite the difference in design, they all consist of an oxygen-containing organosilicon compound and a solvent. Silicone oil, unlike mineral or essential oils, does not damage rubber parts.

Also, silicone greases are highly resistant to dust adhesion, so they are indispensable for processing rubber seals.

Teflon grease

This type of grease has the highest abrasion resistance. Being between two moving parts, it is not produced for a long time at high pressure. Therefore Teflon oil is the best chain lubricant.

In addition to the solvent, Teflon oil also contains antistatic components that repel dust.

Wax lubricant

Unlike Teflon-based grease, it creates a thicker wax-like synthetic layer of oil on the outside that will need to be refreshed less often. In its ability to linger on parts at increased pressure, it is inferior to Teflon.

Before reapplying the wax, you will need to remove the old oil from the surface.

Penetrating oils

WD-40 and its analogues

Sold in aerosol cans. They are excellent at softening rust, thinning dry grease and displacing water. AnyWay and the domestic UNISMA tool are analogs of the imported WD-40. These fluids are not actually lubricants. They include white spirit, binders and only a little kerosene as a lubricant. Their main active ingredient is precisely the solvent, not the oil.


It is correct to use WD-40 and similar fluids only to loosen rusted threaded connections and remove old dry grease, not to lubricate bike parts.

Nanoprotech grease

Nanoprotech grease is also a penetrating lubricant, but it uses mineral oil as a base. Therefore, with its help, you can not only clean parts and unscrew rusted bolts and nuts, but also lubricate unloaded rubbing parts. Although it is best used when disassembling a bike and preserving it.

Lubricants should be free of solid impurities, free acids and water, so they should be stored in a clean container with a tight-fitting lid.

You now have a basic knowledge of bicycle lubricants. It only remains to put them into practice.

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Some time after the purchase and running of the bike, there is an extraneous noise - the creak of the pedals, and the chain begins to rust. This indicates the need for urgent bicycle lubrication.

Lubrication for the bike, chain and chassis, first of all, is needed to make the "iron horse" last longer.

Bicycle parts, which are related to the chassis, require lubrication in the first place, since they are responsible for the movement on this vehicle, they are combined into a system:

  • the chain is considered the main part of the bicycle. It provides the bike with movement, so the quality of the lubricant affects the technical condition of the vehicle. The signal that something is wrong with her is the ringing that appears. It is necessary to take into account, in addition to lubrication, its natural wear. This part requires replacement after 1.5 thousand kilometers traveled;
  • the axles of the brake system are also important for the timely stopping of transport and safe movement;
  • roller wheels responsible for tensioning the chain, i.e. opposing weakening;
  • the gear selector includes forward and backward. The first is responsible for shifting speeds, the other for increasing speed. Lubrication and competent maintenance help these parts to perform their functions without fail;
  • brake and shift cables. Bicycle lubrication is important to these brake commanding parts because they integrate and induce the parts involved in shifting and braking. To lubricate the cables, it is enough to drip oil at the outlet and inlet, press the switches several times and the pedals;
  • carriage assembly. In this unit there is a special cup that keeps the bearings from falling out, and the pedals from scrolling, which helps to turn them easily. Therefore, lubrication is essential for safe cycling;
  • wheel bearings also need lubrication. Their function is to keep the wheels from "loosening" while driving, to help light torsion;
  • shock absorbers. Thanks to them, the bike moves smoothly. In addition, they soften the impact when the wheel hits obstacles and resist vehicle breakdown. In order for them to perform their functions effectively, you need a bicycle lubricant, which is applied to the rear shock absorber and the front fork.

If the bike owner lubricates the bike - the chain and the listed parts in advance, there will be no problems, and the service life of the bike will increase significantly.

What to use to lubricate your bike

There are a huge number of oils and lubricants on the market suitable for this purpose:

  • liquid oils belong to the category intended for lubricating chains of any type, which ensures their reliable operation;
  • two-component aerosols are used to lubricate: switches, cables, threads. When spraying aerosols, the oils contained in their composition penetrate into hard-to-reach places, providing lubrication for parts that cannot be processed in any other way. Some aerosols contain kerosene, so they are an effective assistant to separate worn-out parts ("LM47", "LM40");
  • plastic lubricants are used if you need to lubricate or seal any kind of connections. Some contain calcium. They are used as a lubricant for joints and assemblies. This type of bicycle lubricant includes: "Unitol", "Solidol", etc. Their advantages include the ability to hold on to the elements for a long time, providing them effective work... Another type of bicycle grease is lithium grease: "Fiol", "Litol - 24", etc.
  • chassis elements retain their characteristics for a long time.

Important things to know about lubricating your bike

It would seem that in such a simple matter as lubricating a bicycle, there are no subtleties, but this is not so. It is important to know which type of bicycle lubricant is best suited for a particular part, in what quantity, and what manipulations with the processed element will be required.

The main requirements to be met when applying lubricants to bicycle elements:

Lubricating the bike chain

The amount of lubricant is important for the lubrication of the chain. Do not use thick lubricants. To lubricate the chain, the amount of lubricant is small.

How to lubricate the axle of the brake system

For lubrication, it is better to use aerosols capable of treating elements installed in hard-to-reach places. Spraying should be dosed and done carefully.

Lubricate the roller wheels, which adjust the chain tension. Here it is more appropriate to use aerosol lubricant for a bicycle.

Gear selectors... Aerosols and oils are equally good for them.

To lubricate cables and switches both aerosol lubricants and oils are used - it is enough to apply a drop to the outlet and inlet of the ropes.

Carriage. The lubricant for this bike part should fit on the bottom of the cup and be thick.

Bearings... The lubrication method is the same as for the carriage.

Shock absorbers. Oil is poured into the fork, and liquid bike lubricant is poured into the rear shock absorber.

There will be no problems with the bike with proper care, i.e. a competent approach to choosing a lubricant for a bicycle.

How to care for a chain

The chain of the bike is the most important part, therefore it requires special care.

Chainwheel for chain lubrication

Innovations are not always necessary and useful. It is not so difficult to do without many. Perhaps about the chain hoist - a machine designed to facilitate the maintenance of the chain, many who do not see the difficulties in removing and cleaning the chain in the classic way think the same.

But, if the procedure is not difficult for them, then for beginners and girls, it is a serious problem. But it is also impossible not to take care of this part.

For them, the chain-link is the way out. Devices are available in several types. They differ in reliability, equipment and cost.

Products of the following companies are considered to be budget options: Birzman, Bike Hand, Barbieri. Machines from these manufacturers are completed with 3 wheels and a capacity. There are more components, and the machine is more convenient if the manufacturer is Kettenmax, but the price is much higher. A specific person chooses equipment according to financial capabilities.

How the chain link works

The main advantage of these machines is the chain washer, which cannot be removed from the bike. We fill the tank of the machine with washing liquid (50 ml), the chain is put inside the device and the pedals are smoothly rotated, holding the bike and the machine. It is advisable to perform the procedure on the street. If the weather or other reasons do not allow, and you have to do this at home, so as not to spoil the floor, they cover it with newspapers or rags, and use a detergent: kerosene, White spirit or Fairy. After cleaning from contamination, this part is lubricated. To do this, you will need to replace the fluid in the reservoir with grease. Then repeat the described actions, i.e. turn the pedals.

The principle of operation, the device made justified and accessible to everyone.

After the chain has been cleaned from dirt, it must be lubricated, for which it is required to replace the flushing fluid with lubricant in the machine.

Chain lubrication

If you have experience in removing the chain, you can do without the chain link.

To lubricate the chains, follow the sequence:

  • the chain is transferred to the middle sprockets in order to reduce the tension: it is easier to clean it to remove dirt from it in order to process the links;
  • cleaning from dirt. It is carried out with a clean cloth or brush. Wipe the chain without missing sections;
  • applying lubricant to the bicycle chain. It is better to use chain lubricant (aerosols are less preferred). To make the parts lubricate, pedals are scrolled in the opposite direction;
  • spin them at the same speed for better penetration of the lubricant inside;
  • removal of surplus. Excess bike grease is removed with a dry, clean cloth so that they do not collect dirt and interfere with normal operation.

Chain lubricants

Teflon bicycle grease has high performance:

  1. being between the moving parts of the chain, it is not subject to friction;
  2. needs thinners for better penetration;
  3. applied in a thin layer.

Silicone bike and chain lubricant is resistant to wear and tear of chain elements. Dust does not "sit" on it. It is not applied in a thick layer.

Lubricants containing wax. They are effective, applied in an extremely thin layer to prevent plugging of bushings and links. The part is thoroughly cleaned before application. They are inferior to Teflon bicycle lubricant in performance, but they are quite effective.

Chain lubrication intervals

Experts are divided on this issue. But, everyone agrees with some decisions:

  • if it becomes difficult to go for a walk, you need to lubricate the chain;
  • if the ride lasted more than three hours - check this part, you may need to lubricate it;
  • if there are extraneous sounds, then the chain is dry.

Analyzing everything, we understand that it is right, every time, after 100 km is left behind, to clean and lubricate the most important part of the bike.

Why grease the fork

Plugs from different manufacturers differ from each other.

We can talk about the sequence of actions associated with their lubrication only conditionally, since each differs in nuances:

  • the fork will need to be cleaned and the wheel removed;
  • Unscrew the bolts holding the plug pants in the rods, then remove the regulator;
  • the next step is filmed brake system and pants forks;
  • used grease is removed from the rods;
  • remove the retaining rings from the oil seals;
  • the forks are rubbed inside;
  • thick grease is applied to the oil seals, and oil is poured into the pants of the plug (it is better to use it with grease);
  • having prepared the parts, assemble the plug, lubricating the inner surface with an aerosol.

How often the shock absorbers are lubricated

The principle of their disassembly was described above. It remains to learn that you need to lubricate the shock absorbers daily if you ride in the rain and weekly in the sun. It is recommended to use aerosol lubricants and oils.

What kind of lubricant is used for bearings

For them, it is chosen so as to ensure uninterrupted operation for a long time. One can count as such a lithium one, capable of serving a year without replacement. Before applying, the bearings are thoroughly washed with kerosene, allowed to dry, then the lubricant is placed in the separator. It holds the bearing balls together. It is allowed to apply it directly into the cup, then squeezing the balls.

Bicycle lubricant, or how pedals are lubricated

First of all, they need to be disassembled. After removing the pedals, remove the plugs that cover the nuts. Next, unscrew the nuts, remove the lock washers and the cone. Having taken out the bearings, the pedals are removed from the axles.

The parts are washed in kerosene, wiped, and allowed to dry. Now, they and the axle are lubricated. It remains to reassemble the bearing.

How to lubricate the carriage

We immediately warn you that there will be no problems with disassembly: the carriage is disassembled in detail, a thick one is used for lubrication. Liquid - applied from above, and inside it is absorbed.

To prevent corrosion and extraneous squeaks from appearing on the bike after winter, use Nanoprotech lubricant. It is applied before "sending" the bike for the "winter holidays".

Video: Bicycle maintenance (chain wash and lubrication, bike wash)

If there is no lubrication, the parts will gradually deteriorate under the influence of water and dirt. Rust appears on the work surfaces, and the protective layers are completely erased. All working units need to be lubricated in the garage, then the bike will definitely not fail on the road. Bicycle lubricants protect against corrosion by preventing air from entering... Friction between parts, their wear is noticeably reduced.

A grease is produced on the modern market, which can be divided into several groups.

  • Two-piece for stealth... Can be applied as a liquid or aerosol, penetrate deep enough. But aerosols are sometimes sprayed past the part that needs protection. You also need to wait some time for the solvent to dry after completing the work.
  • Liquid lubricant... You can use an oiler or syringe to apply them to your work surface. Easily poured into assembled units. You can also get rid of the remnants of this composition without any problems. But such liquids can drain from parts. And change the viscosity if they are affected by a slightly different temperature.
  • Bicycle grease... They retain their properties when exposed to any temperature, both low and high. But it is difficult in this case to remove the excess, to apply the material. It collects a lot of dust and dirt.

Thick or grease lubricants

This bike lubricant is sold inside cans and tubes. This is a kind of plastic substance. It shows itself best inside mechanisms that are characterized by slow rotation. Lever bushings, threaded joints and bearings are recommended to be treated with the compounds of this group.
Thick oils also help to maintain the chain's properties for a long period of time.

Lithium

They usually differ in yellow or red... Lithium compounds allow for increased slip, help to expand the temperature range at which the oil retains performance. Lithium oils can operate at temperatures from minus 50 to +180. They can be washed off with water, but it takes about one year. Patriotic bicycle grease no. 158 it has high adhesion, or the property of bonding with other materials. It also differs in blue. It is a pigment that acts as a thickener in this composition. It is also an antioxidant additive. When this oil works, it seems to clean out all the details involved in the work to a shine.

Temperature range - from minus 40 to +120.

About calcium compounds

Bicycle grease is yellow or green in color. Shows excellent adhesion to metal parts. They are washed off for a long time even with large volumes of liquid. It is best to use such compounds on structures that are often exposed to water. Do not coat a hub with brake mechanisms with such lubricants. But calcium greases are great for protecting against corrosion of any metals, rear hub.

How do graphite lubricants work?

By itself, graphite stealth powder is an antifriction agent. The grease remains on the surface of the part when the binder dries out or if the compound burns out. Only a thin layer of graphite remains, which provides good sliding for the contacting parts. It protects even those parts of the structure that are constantly under heavy stress. USSA for stealth is an excellent example of a domestic lubricant based on graphite. At one time, cyclists used it to weld chains. But this process was long and laborious. It was necessary to make sure that the oil itself did not collapse, did not lose its properties. Now this situation has been corrected, a large number of two-component lubricants for the rear hub have appeared.

About technical vaseline

Petroleum jelly is less refined when compared to the cosmetic and medical varieties of the same material. It is better at protecting parts from moisture and air than other types of lubricants from the same group. Therefore, the composition helps to prevent corrosion. Especially for a long time it is able to stay on the cables.
Technical petroleum jelly for stealth is composed of free acids. They can destroy some of the metal parts over time.

About the properties of liquid oils

They are sold in the form of oil cans, small canisters or in barrels for bottling. The viscosity of such compositions is different. Automotive, spindle and industrial oils are examples of products that belong to this group. The main thing when using these compositions is to avoid overfilling. Spindle and industrial oils are less viscous. Repair with their use will give results just as quickly.

Two-component products and their features

Supplied in the form of oil cans, aerosol cans. The main components are solvent plus thick oil. The fluidity of the composition is the same as that of ordinary water. Therefore, the agent easily flows into any components inside the engine. The solvent evaporates after the product has been applied to the work surface. Only the thick oil itself remains on the parts. These lubricants are recommended to protect the bike during winter riding, or when vehicle stored for a long time without active use.

About silicone lubricants

Sold in a plastic form, spray or liquid. Such a variety of options make the application of the compounds to the surface easier and more accessible. The design is different, but the essence remains the same - a solvent is necessarily present in the composition, as well as an oxygen-containing organosilicon compound.
The advantage of silicone oil is that it does not adversely affect rubber parts. Allows you to make quality repairs.

The need for lubrication of bearings

Correct is one of the most important conditions ensuring stable operation. The part will wear out earlier than the specified period if the material for lubrication is selected incorrectly, or if it is abandoned altogether. Because of this, the service life of the entire structure is reduced. Lubrication affects bearing life no less than the base material in this design. The role of lubrication increased as the bike parts were subjected to more and more stress. A particularly important and relevant factor is the rise in temperature. It is she who has the greatest impact, not only on the bearing itself, but also on its lubrication. In bearing assemblies, lubricants have several important functions.
  • Prevents environmental debris from entering the bike.
  • Protection of the structure against corrosion. Such repairs retain protection for a long time.
  • Even distribution of heat generated during bearing operation. Prevention of the transfer of high temperature to other elements and parts of the structure.
  • Works as a cooling medium.
  • Reducing the sliding friction of the bicycle between parts such as rings and cages, rolling bearings.
  • Reduction of sliding friction, which occurs due to elastic deformation, under the influence of an additional load.
  • Formation of an elastic hydrodynamic oil film on the surface. It reduces the noise generated during the operation of the bearing, protects against environmental influences.

Choosing the Right Lubrication Method

Liquid oils and plastics are best suited for these parts. Special coatings and hard formulations are also used, but only in some situations. The operating conditions in which bicycle rolling bearings are used should be a major factor in choosing the appropriate processing method. This applies in particular to:
  1. Environmental influences.
  2. Shock loading of bearings.
  3. Vibration.
  4. Fluctuations.
  5. Bicycle rotation speeds.
  6. Loads.
  7. Temperature level. The repair must take this into account.
You can rely on a number of other criteria:
  • Compliance with environmental requirements.
  • Food tolerances.
  • Low noise level.
  • Purity. This is also important for a process such as renovation.
Even in combination of these characteristics, liquid oils remain the best option for bike performance.
If possible, experts recommend using them, completely forgetting about other existing solutions. Improved heat dissipation is a significant advantage of the formulations, as well as the ability to remove worn-out particles from friction units. Finally, it is worth noting the excellent quality of the lubricant, the penetrating ability of the material. But there is also a small drawback associated with construction costs. And the danger of leakage, the likelihood of such an outcome always remains high. Therefore, many still prefer plastic materials. They retain their properties and properties of parts for a longer period.

A bicycle is one of such human mechanical inventions, in which there are elements that interact with each other by rolling some surfaces relative to others (wheel hubs, main carriage), by means of a chain transmission and by entering one smaller cylindrical surface into another - this is the damping mechanism front fork.

Despite the fact that bearings significantly reduce friction, proper lubrication of all these elements is necessary: ​​friction is reduced, movement is facilitated. This increases the life of the parts. However, it is important to know how to properly lubricate your bike.

The better the bike, the better the factory lubricant, the longer it lasts. These mountain bike models include, for example, Merida, GT. For example, it is known that the 2009 GT Avalanche 2.0 freely gains 10,000 km without any lubrication of the bushings and carriages, there is no damage to the bearings. Of course, this does not mean that you need to give a damn about the maintenance of the bike.

In the event that you buy an "Auchan-bike", it will be right to "open" all the units that need lubrication, check them and lubricate them again immediately after the purchase. Sometimes you need to replace something right away, for example, the rear bushing and main bearings.

Probably it is not necessary to additionally indicate that only a thoroughly washed and, most importantly, dried bike should be lubricated.

So which parts of a bike need lubrication and how is it done?

Chain

Comfort when driving depends on the regularity of lubrication - the chain does not buzz, it switches easily and freely. As a rule, the need for lubrication arises if the chain begins to rustle, rattle, and it also becomes difficult to shift gears. This can be felt after intensive driving in rain and muddy weather, after the chain is dry.

How to lubricate a bicycle chain

We proceed as follows:

  • increase by moving it to the corresponding large asterisks;
  • carefully clean the chain from dirt, you can use a rag by pressing it to a free area bicycle chain and twisting the pedal;
  • then we lubricate the chain, it is better to apply lubricant over the top point of the roller (if the bike is standing with its wheels up). Make sure one drop falls on each link.
  • When the whole chain is lubricated, you need to intensively pedal for a minute in the opposite direction - "idle" of the chain, and then, having selected medium speed, turn the bicycle chain in the forward direction.
  • At the final stage, remove all excess oil from the outside with a soft clean rag, since the main action of the lubricant is to work on the inner joints of the links, and from the outside, ordinary grease "clings" dust, poplar fluff and contaminates the rollers and rear sprockets with its deposits. So don't be afraid to rub the chain properly.

In addition to lubrication, you need to monitor the "mileage" of the chain. On average, it needs to be replaced after every 1500 - 2000 km. the following reasons:

  • it starts to sag;
  • fuzzy gear shifting;
  • the extended chain will damage the cassette sprockets on rear wheel.

Also, the question often arises about how often to lubricate the chain?

There are no uniform standards. It all depends on the feelings of the bike owner:

  • if resistance or crunch appears in the circuit;
  • after driving through dust and sand;
  • after any walk that exceeds 3-5 hours.

Some people lubricate the chain after 100 km of run, regardless of operating conditions. Probably this decision is the most correct, as it teaches you to regular maintenance.

Chain tensioning mechanism

Rear derailleur rollers. They are often "clogged" by grease and dirt deposits that have thickened around the perimeter. They must be removed carefully, for example with a flat-blade screwdriver.


Lubricate the rollers

It is necessary to apply a dotted liquid lubricant on the roller axles to avoid squeaking and tight rotation. Only lubricated, they are able to keep the chain taut.

Ropes

The bike has several cables that transmit the force from the shifters and brake levers to the front and rear derailleurs, as well as to the disc brakes or V - brake. If dirt has accumulated between the jacket and the cable, or the surfaces are dry, then the control may "stick". This leads to untimely gear changes and even to the impossibility of emergency braking.


Lubricating the bike cables

To lubricate the cable entry and exit points from the jacket, apply a couple of drops of lubricant, and then "work" with the lever of the shifter or the brake handle. This allows you to lubricate evenly and to a considerable depth.

Main run carriage

We can say that this is the "main" axis of the bicycle. It is from it that the impulse is "distributed" to other elements. Therefore, the speed, ease, and comfort of the stroke depend on the state of the carriage. The carriage elements are:

  • cups,
  • the axis itself,
  • bearings.

A different, "thick" grease is put into the carriage, not the kind that drips onto the chain or cables.

How to lubricate the carriage

Lubrication of the carriage on a bicycle is done by simply placing grease in the cups and on the surface of the bearings, on the bushing, and by distributing them evenly. In addition, before lubricating the carriage, it is advisable to thoroughly wash the bearings and all cavities, the surface of the bushing, for example, with kerosene. It is flushing that will subsequently make it possible to properly lubricate the carriage.

Wheel axle bearings

If the grease has dried out, there is resistance to the wheel movement, an increased noise level, and when the bearing is destroyed, a "backlash" occurs in the wheel, and even wheel jamming can occur.
The bearing lubrication scheme is identical to that of the carriage bearings.

Front and rear derailleurs

The continuity of the cycle depends on the clarity and consistency of their actions. Sometimes, especially when going uphill, shifting should be done immediately after afterburner, in order to change gears not in tension, but in free motion. This often takes a fraction of a second, and the switches need to work flawlessly so that the upward lift does not "choke".

Switches are ideally disassembled for lubrication. More details about maintenance and lubrication can be found here:

Front fork damping system

It is the presence of a shock absorber that allows the biker not to pay attention to obstacles and makes the bike passable. A good shock absorber resists the support reaction in a timely manner. front wheel therefore the plug must be kept in good condition.


How to lubricate shock absorbers

Normally, you need to lubricate the “legs” of the plug after 150-200 kilometers, after 700 kilometers (on average) the oil seals are disassembled and lubricated, and annually or after running 3-4 thousand kilometers. the oil in the shock absorber is completely replaced.

It is better to show all the care of the fork in the video than to describe it in detail in text. For example, here you can see all the preventive maintenance operations for the front fork and shock absorbers:

About the types of lubricants

In the store "eyes run up", but their whole variety comes down to several types that are used to lubricate a bicycle:
Liquid oil (colloquially referred to as "machine"). With its help, the chain is lubricated, as well as the fork with a shock-absorbing mechanism. The disadvantage of such a liquid lubricant is that it thickens strongly in frosty weather.

Greases with a high content of any element such as lithium or calcium.

Lithium greased, such as "Litol-24", it is good to lubricate the bearing axles, carriage. It is lithium that gives the lubricant a specific sliding, and it exhibits antifriction properties. In addition, lubricants with the addition of lithium do not thicken in freezing temperatures down to -50 degrees and do not liquefy even at midday temperatures in the desert, since they can not change their properties when heated to 150 degrees.
The negative side is a fairly high water solubility, therefore, the lubrication points must be sealed with sealed anthers. In addition, it is not recommended to apply this grease to aluminum surfaces.

Calcium greases plastic, work well for a long time. An example of such a lubricant is Uniol. Unlike lithium, they have high adhesion, or adhesion to the surface, and hold for a long time. In addition, they help to resist corrosion in wet conditions. These lubricants are yellow or greenish. It is very important that they do not react with aluminum, unlike lithium greases. Therefore, they are expensive and can be used to lubricate expensive bikes.

Aerosols are a special type of lubricant, which may contain several components, such as Teflon. Their advantage is the ability to penetrate into hidden cavities and hard-to-reach places, including due to adhesion and surface tension force. Their predecessor is kerosene, which has a truly unmatched enveloping ability, even able to get out of the vessel. With the help of such lubricants it is possible to process cables, all types of threads, especially when loosening "heavy" and "stuck" connections. Examples of such lubricants are LM 40, LM 47 and others.

Perhaps the most famous aerosol lubricant"Quick action" is the famous WD-40. Among other things, it creates a hydrophobic layer and displaces water.

Silicone greases. They are easy to apply, able to "repel" dust and water.

Wax lubricants: on the chain, for example, the coating can last for several months under dry conditions. But the wax is subsequently able to "fall off" itself in the form of scales and flakes. If the bike is operated in water, mud, fords are crossed or riding occurs in spring or autumn, then you need to choose another lubricant, because the wax is not fluid and cannot effectively penetrate into the chain joints.

A bicycle is not an easy machine. Before lubricating your bike, you need to know that, in addition to the places for lubrication, there are areas, the ingress of lubricant on which is completely undesirable. These include wheel tires (accidental ingress of grease on large areas can lead to skidding and the impossibility of emergency braking), rims (in the case of using tick-type brakes), as well as brake discs and pads. In addition, if oil gets on the rubber bladder, it can begin to corrode the rubber, causing it to burst for a considerable length.


The bicycle is a unique mechanical invention of mankind. And he certainly needs lubrication to improve performance. Proper lubrication of all moving parts is essential to reduce friction between them and facilitate movement. Therefore, beginners ask themselves the question: when and how to do it correctly?

Special oils, liquid in consistency, are suitable for lubrication of all types of chains, damping systems. The structure of the oil penetrates well into hard-to-reach places, ensuring in the future the smooth operation of bicycle assemblies and components.

When is the best time to tidy up your bike?
Do not forget that it is imperative to clean the body of the part from dirt before lubricating. To do this, you will need the following necessary tools and tools: a bucket of very hot water, car shampoo or dishwashing detergent, brushes, sponges, an old toothbrush for hard-to-reach places, narrow flat screwdrivers, degreaser, rags. We wash the bike and let it dry for a few hours or wipe it with a rag. Only then do we proceed to the procedure for lubricating the parts.

Fast cleaning
This procedure serves as an intermediate between major cleanings. This can be the removal of dirt from the chain without directly dismantling it. To do this, you can wash the chain from dirt with a rag and brush, or use a special machine to clean the chain. It all depends on the possibilities of your budget.

Major cleaning
To do this, you will have to remove the chain from the bike. Depending on whether there is a connecting link on the chain or not, squeezing may additionally be required. After dismantling the chain, place it in a container with a cleaning agent and use a brush and rags to wash it to maximum cleanliness.

It is better to change the water in the container after each remedy. In addition to the chain, other important components should be well cleaned. For convenience, it is recommended to remove the rear wheel in order to wash the cassette and disassemble the rear derailleur foot with rollers, then get to the tensioner roller, in the case of the tensioner itself installed on the bike.

Cleaning and lubricating agents
Experienced cyclists identify several topical products for cleaning dirt and grease from a bike.

WD-40
Sprayer with fine and long tubular nozzle. A huge plus of the tool is easy access to time-consuming component connections. It will help to remove rust and clean the surface of old grease.

Two-component aerosol
Ideal for cleaning and lubricating switches, threads and cables. The aerosol can is adapted to work even in a hard-to-reach place to wrap around bicycle parts. If you need to separate damaged parts, use LM40 and LM47 aerosols. Among the key ingredients is kerosene. It is this substance that will gently make this difficult procedure. Excess product can be removed with a cloth.

Liquid oil
Universal product for all types of chains, shock absorbers. The structure of the oil envelops the surface of the treated area 100%. It is characterized by a long-lasting effect for the smooth operation of parts. The disadvantage is a strong thickening of the consistency in the cold and the likely collection of dirt when riding in bad weather.

Calcium-based lubricants
A popular type of grease for the care of all kinds of parts and assemblies. The advantage of such a lubricant is stability on the surface of the parts (the formation of a protective layer for excellent bike performance). Unlike lithium products, they have a high level of adhesion and anti-corrosion effect. Bicycle "cosmetics" with calcium content do not react with aluminum, so they are more expensive and are used to care for expensive bikes. The tool will take care of sealing the joints.

Lithium greases
They will help to keep the bike undercarriage in perfect order. These greases are suitable for the maintenance of bearing axles and carriage. A substance called lithium gives the product a specific slip, it does not thicken at temperatures down to -50 ° C and does not liquefy when heated to + 150 ° C. Negative nuance - high level water solubility.

Silicone lubricants
Easy to apply to bike parts. Able to "repel" dust and water, but dry faster.

Teflon based lubricants
The composition uses a substance for all types of chains. The fluid has an extremely low coefficient of friction relative to the contacting solid surfaces of the chain. For better penetration into hard-to-reach areas, Teflon grease is diluted with oil or solvent. The ratio of the components depends on the operating conditions (dry asphalt road, dusty primers or wet roads). It exists in the form of an aerosol can, but its use is fraught with too fast consumption, so it is better to give preference liquid analog.

Wax lubricants
Can last for several months in dry riding conditions. Frequent mechanical cleaning of the chain is not required. But the wax itself can fall off over time in the form of scales and flakes. It is difficult to treat hard-to-reach areas with this type of lubricant.

Graphite greases
Not a bad remedy for congested nodes. An important plus is the long-term effect. Minus - the grease very much stains everything that comes into contact with it.

How to carry out the lubrication procedure correctly?
Begin lubricating the bike from any node. Lubricate cassettes and chain sprockets several times and turn the crank arms counterclockwise. A small amount of lubricant is sufficient. Remember, it shouldn't be too thick. Your cycling comfort depends on the regularity of the procedure - the chain will not buzz, you will immediately feel lightness and freedom in shifting gears. In addition to lubricating, watch the "mileage" of the bicycle chain. On average, after every two thousand kilometers, a part needs to be replaced due to sagging, fuzzy gear changes and damage to the cassette sprockets on the rear wheel.

To lubricate the brakes, clamp them and apply the agent to the cable and pivot, the point of entry of the cable into the jacket. If your bike is equipped with V-brakes, try not to get oil on the rim - otherwise, the rim must be wiped off, otherwise the braking performance will be reduced to zero. Aerosols for a more metered spray are best suited for lubrication. Apply oil drop by drop to the cable outlet and inlet.

The carriage is one of the key components of the bicycle, which sets the working impulse to other parts of the device. The speed and ease of movement depends on its condition. You will need a thicker lubricant to lubricate the carriage than a chain or cables.

Wheel axle bearings require frequent lubrication. The care scheme for them is identical to the previous one.

All moving parts must be lubricated in the front and rear derailleurs. They are often clogged with deposits from the thickened mass of grease and dirt around the perimeter. They can be gently removed with a flat screwdriver. Move the switch in different directions to see which parts require more lubrication. Remember to machine the rear derailleur roller bearings - they directly affect pedaling.

To process the rollers, you need to apply a dotted liquid on the axis to relieve them of squeak and tight rotation. Lubricated rollers are capable of turning with minimal resistance. For the procedure, experts recommend using aerosol products. When lubricating the chain, it is important to apply lubricant to each link and preferably in a thin layer. If you are using a liquid lubricant, you can use a syringe or oiler for more precise application.

Taking care of the front shock absorber allows you to travel more comfortably over difficult terrain. A good shock absorber can handle both small and large bumps, so keep it in good condition. Depending on weather conditions, the suspension fork is filled with oil of a certain viscosity, the same is true for the rear shock absorber.

After lubrication, it is worth scrolling the pedals, pressing the brake levers a couple of times, shifting gears. Remove excess grease so that it does not collect dust later. When using an aerosol, make sure that the jet hits all hard-to-reach places. Avoid getting oil on tires, rims, disc brake rotors and other parts.

Chain cleaner: is it necessary or not?
Not all newfangled devices are actually very useful. At first glance, this device may make life easier for a novice cyclist and will be completely unnecessary for a seasoned cyclist. In any case, do not leave the chain without proper care.

There are several types of bike chain cleaning machines. They differ in configuration, price and durability. The most affordable models from Bike, Barbieri, Hand and Birzman are machines with three cleaning wheels and a convenient reservoir. A more expensive machine from Kettenmax has all the necessary additional components in its arsenal. In fact, the final choice will depend on your financial capabilities. The key advantage of the clipper is the ability to maintain the chain without removing the part from the bike.

To start the procedure, you need to place the chain directly into the machine. The container is filled in advance to the middle of the rollers with flushing solution (the norm is 50 ml). After that, smooth rotation of the pedals is ensured. Hold the clipper and the bike at the same time. For the procedure in a living room, it is better to protect the floor with pieces of cloth or cover it with paper. The cleaned chain must dry and only then can the lubricant be applied.

Optimal lubrication intervals
There are no clearly defined standards - it all depends on the owner of the bike. It is enough to carry out the lubrication procedure a couple of times a season to prolong the durability of the bike - at the beginning and at the end. After heavy extreme loads, it is advisable to wash the bike and not be too lazy to re-lubricate parts and connections. Some cyclists lubricate the chain after every hundreds of kilometers, regardless of the weather.

How to lubricate a bicycle chain
Experts strongly advise against the use of thick lubricants - this will prevent the proper penetration of the product into all the necessary places. Another minus is the adhesion of road dust. Do not use concentrated grease and lithol, sunflower oil.

It is advisable to avoid the use of automotive gear oils, sewing machine oil-based fluids. They attract dust - after two trips, you will have to clean the dirty chain again. Also, such oils are very afraid of moisture, which cannot be avoided in rainy weather.

Outcomes
Remember that the modern market is full of bike cleaning fluids. This is all well and good, but car shampoo and hot water will have a similar effect. Hot water is the key to removing dirt, and all cleaning fluids simply speed up the process and save time.

So, for cheap bicycles, a cheap lubricant will be optimal. Lithium will be out of competition. It can be purchased at any auto parts store. For expensive bikes, it makes sense to purchase calcium greases, because they do not chemically react with aluminum alloys and do not wash out so quickly with water. For the care of threaded connections, you can choose a high-quality graphite grease.

If you love your bike, polish it with a soft cloth and paint polish. As a result, it will look "shiny" and become more resistant to dirt sticking.

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