Climbing powder. What are the analogues of magnesia

- a liquid or powder compound used in various sports to increase the coefficient of friction in the "projectile-hand" system.

As part of a powder or liquid - magnesium salts. Almost identical in composition, magnesia in both versions is equally reliable and effective. However, using the liquid takes some time to dry, which is undesirable in competition.

What is athletic magnesium for?

The powdery substance applied to the palms instantly absorbs sebum, sweat and residual moisture after washing your hands. By increasing the coefficient of friction between the skin of the palm and the projectile (crossbar), magnesium, thus, makes the grip stronger and more tenacious.

This substance is used by athletes who need a good grip of the hand with the projectile. Magnesia is always in the arsenal of

  • Bodybuilders;
  • Powerlifters;
  • Sports gymnasts;
  • Kettlebell lifting athletes;
  • Rock climbers;
  • Athletes-throwers of the shot, hammer, disc.

The use of athletic magnesium significantly reduces the risk of injury. This substance is especially popular with bodybuilders and powerlifters when doing the following exercises:

  • Bench press. (good grip on the bar eliminates the possibility of chest injury);
  • Squats (a strong grip provides a secure grip on the projectile without falling over, injuring the spine and limbs);
  • Deadlift;
  • Bench press standing and sitting. Magnesia promotes a tight grip and minimizes the possibility of the projectile (dumbbell, kettlebell, barbell) slipping out of the athlete's hands.

When is it worth using magnesia.

Intense exercise, high temperature in the gym, sweating with excitement - all these situations lead to excess secretion of sebum and sweat. Actively working sweat glands plus drinking fluids during exercise create a problem in the form of wet palms. Wet palms of the hands or the surface of the projectile are a signal for the use of magnesia. It is also advisable to use magnesium when carrying sports equipment, cleaning the hall.

Magnesia analogs.

Some athletes use talc or chalk as analogues of magnesia. Neither product has the desired properties, therefore it cannot serve as a full-fledged replacement for athletic magnesia. Talc reduces the coefficient of friction and makes the palms dry but slippery, which, unlike chalk, only adds to the risk of injury. Chalk dries out the skin a lot, but has no effect on the strength of adhesion to the projectile.

By purchasing, you will get rid of the effect of slippery hands, minimize the risk of injury and increase your athletic performance!

The main task of magnesia is to increase friction while holding the hooks by drying and degreasing the skin surface on the palms and fingers. At the moment, magnesium is used by almost all climbers. Climbing without magnesium on the climbing wall is highly discouraged, since, firstly, it is inconvenient and ineffective, and secondly, it leads to "grease" of the holds. In some halls, the prohibition on climbing without magnesium, as well as climbing barefoot, is directly spelled out in the visiting rules.

Magnesia and a special bag for it, along with climbing shoes, are among the essentials for climbing.

At the moment, magnesia is available in the form of powder, liquid or gel. The use of various types of magnesia has its own specifics. Any magnesia dries the skin a lot, so it is recommended to wash your hands after exercise, and people with sensitive skin should use a moisturizer.

Powdered magnesia

Sold in the form of compressed briquettes or simply in bulk in bags / containers.
For example, Black Diamond magnesia.

This type of magnesia is very convenient and is used by the vast majority of climbers. Powdered magnesia from different manufacturers is quite different. Magnesia can be in the form of a fine "soft" powder, and in the form of relatively large and hard lumps.
The choice of a particular brand is a matter of taste. A number of manufacturers produce powdered magnesia in different colors. With a close match of the color of the rock and magnesia, its tracks are less noticeable and the routes look more aesthetically pleasing. In Russia, colored magnesia is not widespread.
To use powdered magnesia for climbing, you need a special bag. If the route is long, then you have to chalk your hands while climbing, in this case the bag is hung at the back at the level of the belt.


Powdered magnesia is quite dusty when used, which is a serious disadvantage in the conditions of small indoor climbing walls. Constant inhalation of magnesium dust coupled with physical activity does not benefit the lungs. In addition, magnesium can cause allergic reactions in some people.

When climbing at speed, hands are usually magnesia only before the start and do not take a bag with them, there is simply no time to dry your hands. When climbing bouldering, magnesia is also usually left at the bottom. A dangling bag does not add comfort when making extremely difficult movements, in addition, with constant falls on the mats, typical of bouldering, climbing with the bag will inevitably lead to constant spillage of magnesium, which again leads to dust.
One of the forms of release of powdered magnesia, which allows to reduce the amount of dust, are special balls, which are a round bag of loose fabric with magnesia inside.

The use of balls is again a matter of taste. Some climbers like them very much, others don't. Many people put the ball in a bag in addition to the usual powdered magnesia. In any case, the problem of dust remains to one degree or another, and therefore in some climbing halls there are bans on the use of any powdered magnesia.
Please note that JOSHUA TREE offers magnesia with herbal extracts to minimize negative effects on the skin. For example, ICE HERBAL CHALK contains menthol.

How to choose a chalk bag?

Magnesia powder bags are of three types:

Liquid Magnesia


It is an alcoholic solution applied to the hands and forms a uniform layer of magnesia after drying. Drying time for liquid magnesia is usually in the order of 20-30 seconds. It is believed that liquid magnesium fills the pores of the skin more strongly. Liquid magnesium can only be applied before starting. The applied layer usually lasts for a short time (from several interceptions to 20-30, depending on individual characteristics), after which the hands begin to sweat again.


  • When climbing for speed or bouldering training, you can do with using only liquid magnesium.
  • When climbing long routes, this type of magnesia is used as an addition to powder, they are normally combined with each other.
  • In competitive bouldering climbing, liquid magnesium is also applied just before the start.
Few people want to wait until their hands are dry while working on a competition track. Liquid magnesium is not suitable for all climbers, and for some, the skin on their hands begins to crack. In addition, it has a characteristic and not very pleasant smell.

Helium magnesia


Like liquid, it is applied to hands before starting, forming a layer of magnesia after drying, but unlike liquid, the layer formed by helium magnesia is more stable. For some climbers, it is enough for more than 10-15 minutes of climbing, although this is again individual. This type of magnesia does not mix well with others. The use of helium magnesia for some (but not all) becomes an excellent solution, both when climbing bouldering and climbing long routes, especially in conditions of climbing walls with a restriction on powdered magnesium, but not for everyone. Many climbers refuse helium magnesia, as their hands still quickly start to sweat and thus it is not possible to additionally use ordinary powdered magnesia.

Magnesia in sports

Magnesia powder for sports, a loyal friend of many athletes. Many extol it as a substance that will help you do a couple more pull-ups, well, or prevent the bar from slipping out of your hands during the deadlift. But magnesium can also be the reason why you, being already white like a snowman, go to a bucket of chalk to rest for a few seconds.

No, you don't need this, it's just the subconscious mind trying to justify the desire to take a break. “If I go to chalk, everyone will think I’m just preparing for more repetitions,” you think. We all know!

But it’s not just unnecessary rest, the extreme magnesium craze also pollutes your boxing! DON'T BE THIS GUY!

When magnesia is NOT needed:

When you just jumped off the bar. Don't be fooled, you didn't do this because you don't have enough chalk on your hands;
- you do not need magnesium for running at a distance of 400 meters (of course, if you are not running on your hands);
- you don't need chalk when you take anything. We know hands are gentle and sensitive, but you are in the gym, not the beauty salon.

Magnesia powder is used in sports. When magnesium is needed. What is Magnesia:

To begin with, the hands need to be lightly chalked, your hands are not Tony Montana;
- at the beginning of the workout, when you will work a lot with the barbell;
- Apply magnesia only to the part of the hand that absorbs most of the friction during the grip (upper palm and fingers). Trust me, your forearms and face don't need it;
- when using chalk, leave your hands inside the bucket. Every time I see someone take a handful of chalk and walk around the hall with it, clapping, as if they want to create a new big explosion, a part of me inside dies;
- if doing push-ups or burpees, please try to place your hands in the same place. Sometimes, after another WOD, the hall looks like a crime scene, where fingerprints are searched for.

Being totally serious, please don't overuse magnesia! There is enough chalk on the floor without it. And the next time you go to the bucket, look at your hands and ask yourself, "Do I really need more magnesium or am I looking for an excuse to rest?" Keep order in boxing and follow its rules. Good luck!

Sports magnesia is a white powder. Designed to dry hands while playing sports. This improves grip reliability, which is very important for climbers and rock climbers. In addition to powder, it can be presented in the form of a solution or gel.

This substance is a magnesium salt in terms of content. The chemical composition is very similar to white magnesia.

  • This tool has received application in sports due to its main properties. It absorbs moisture well;
  • If we compare magnesia with chalk, then, in addition to its hygroscopic properties, it also absorbs sebum;
  • This effect increases friction during the grip between the palms and the sports equipment;
  • Not to be confused with talcum powder. It has the opposite effect - it reduces friction.

The convenience of using this tool has made it indispensable for climbers. A visit to the climbing wall without powder is not recommended.

Training in such conditions loses its effectiveness, since the athlete is uncomfortable. Some gyms prohibit climbing without magnesium and barefoot.

Attention! The use of magnesium leads to severe dryness of the skin. It is recommended that you wash your hands thoroughly after exercising. A moisturizer can be applied if desired.

The substance is available in various forms. Each of them has its own peculiarities in use.

Magnesia powder

The most common and familiar form of release. On sale it is presented in bulk in packages. Or in pressed briquettes.

The consistency of the product may vary depending on the manufacturer:

  • Sometimes the powder is rather fine and soft;
  • Sometimes it appears as larger lumps;
  • There are powdered magnesia of various colors.

The substance in powder form has a number of disadvantages:

1. Strongly sprayed when used. For this reason, some climbing walls prohibit the use of magnesium in this form.

2. For the same reason, it is possible to inhale the air with the substance. This is especially dangerous in small rooms, with a large crowd of people who use this tool. With regular ingestion of the lungs, the powder settles there.

3. Allergic reactions are possible.

The price of magnesium powder usually starts from 280 rubles for a box of 56 grams.

For powdered magnesia, special bags are used. If the route is short or the athlete is climbing at speed, then it is better to leave the bag at the bottom.

  • The powder bags are round. They are put directly into a special bag;
  • If necessary, hands are alternately lowered there. You need to squeeze the ball with your palm. Due to its round shape, the substance is evenly distributed over the hand. This procedure takes time and is therefore not always used in rock climbing;
  • On long routes, the product must be used several times. In this case, the pouch usually clings to the waist.

Liquid sports magnesia is presented in the form of an alcohol solution. She also lubricates the palms or completely the hands. The solution needs 30-40 seconds to dry. And the hands remain completely covered with it.

The approximate price of this liquid sports magnesia is 850 rubles per 100 ml bottle.

This form of release is considered more convenient to use and has a number of advantages:

  • It is not sprayed, unlike powder;
  • The solution tends to fill the pores on the skin. Thanks to this, the application is enough for a longer period;
  • If the route is long, then solution and powder are often combined. They combine well, and each has its own merits in different situations;
  • For climbing at speed, this shape is very well suited, and there is no need to use other types;
  • Bouldering also involves the use of mortar. It is used once, at the start.

The disadvantages of the solution include the fact that it takes time to dry. This is not always convenient.

Also, this type of substance sometimes causes skin irritation, it begins to crack.

Substance in the form of a gel

It is presented on sale in the form of a gel.

  • It must be applied to the hands and allowed to dry;
  • The difference from the liquid form is that the gel forms a more stable layer and its action will last longer. The duration of a single use depends on the individual characteristics of the athlete;

  • The use of the gel does not imply the use of other forms of magnesia. They don't fit well together;
  • It is rarely used on long routes. The palms start to sweat over time, reapplication takes time. And you cannot combine with powder;
  • For short routes or speed races, the gel is a convenient solution.

Magnesia pouches - where to buy

This is a simple accessory, but the athlete's comfort may depend on it. When choosing a bag for magnesia, you should pay attention to its characteristics:

1. It should freely fully accommodate the palm. Thanks to this, the powder will cover not only the fingers, but the entire brush.

2. The fabric of the accessory must have a fleecy surface on the inside. ... Then the powder will stick to the walls and cover your hands better.

3. Sometimes large bags are produced in which both hands are placed at the same time. They are usually used at the start. They don't bring them with them.

4. Pay attention to bag weight. It is desirable that it be small.

5. What matters is that the bag should to close and open quickly, easily and reliably.

6. Availability of additional pockets ... It is convenient to place small items in them.

7. Additionally may be present an eyelet for a brush with which the hooks are cleaned.

8. Appearance. This is already a matter of personal preference and taste.

The price of chalk bags usually differs depending on their volume and the material from which they are made. For example, in the Decathlon sports store you can find a pouch and from 399 to 999 rubles.

Sometimes the bags are made by yourself. It is not difficult for those who know how to sew. To do this, you need a piece of suitable fabric and a string.

Athletes use magnesium carbonate powder to improve traction on the surface of the sports equipment and minimize sweating on the palms. Magnesia is used in athletics, weightlifting, kettlebell lifting, pole dancing, rock climbing, acrobatics, powerlifting and other sports to increase friction, bind sebum and moisture.

Contrary to popular belief, sports magnesia(magnesium carbonate 4MgCO3 * Mg (OH) 2 * 4H2O) has nothing to do with chalk or talc. Their use has the opposite effect - friction is reduced and hands glide more easily over the surface of the sports equipment. This is why talcum powder or chalk is not used in these sports.

Sports magnesia comes in the following formats: as a powder, in pressed blocks, in the form of balls (bags of powder), as a liquid (often creamy) and in the form of a thicker gel.

Magnesia powder

Loose Magnesia- the most popular type of sports magnesia. It is usually sold in zip bags, containers or pressed briquettes (blocks). To use powdered magnesia in rock climbing, you need a special bag that can be bought at a store or easily made by yourself. On climbing trails, the bag is hung on the belt behind the back, and during climbing, the layer of magnesium on the hands can be easily renewed by simply placing your hand in the bag. On bouldering trails, the bag is usually left at the bottom, as their complexity often does not allow for the distraction of magnetizing your hands in the process.

Advantages

  • The largest selection: each manufacturer has several items of various sizes.
  • Ease of use. You can take as much powder as you need and not carry the whole package
  • Can be used while climbing a climbing route
  • Unlike liquid magnesium, powder begins to act instantly - it does not need time to dry

Flaws

  • In enclosed spaces, friable magnesia can create dust clouds, harmful to health - the powder clogs the lungs, can cause allergies and other diseases if inhaled for a long time. In many indoor sports halls, the use of bulk magnesia forbidden
  • In some rocky areas, the use of powdered magnesia is strictly prohibited due to the fact that it leaves white traces: for example, on Czech and German sandstones

Magnesia in balls

Magnesia balls- small bags made of porous mesh material. They are filled with powdered magnesia and then sewn up. As a rule, manufacturers put such an amount of magnesia in the bag so that the ball is comfortable to hold in the hand - from 25 to 60 grams. Also produce balls with drawstring... Unlike conventional ones, they are not sewn up in production, but have a tightening, which allows them to be reused, adding powder on their own. These balls can be refilled many times after use.

Advantages

  • Magnesia in balls, for example, can be used in gyms - it leaves much less dust than regular powder
  • This type of magnesia is consumed much more economically.

Flaws

  • Magnesia is difficult to apply on hands in a thick layer. Some climbers put powdered magnesium in a bag of balls to ensure full coverage of the palms.
  • Protected balls can only be used once
  • Balls are somewhat more expensive than loose magnesia

Liquid Magnesia

Liquid Magnesia is a special solution containing alcohols, thickeners (usually rosin) and flavorings. The main idea is to cover the palms as fully as possible with a uniform layer of magnesia and "clog" the smallest pores of the skin with it. Due to this, liquid magnesia is more efficiently held on the hands and is more economically consumed.

Liquid magnesium is applied to the palms or to the entire surface of the brush. After a while (up to about 30 seconds), the alcohol evaporates and the liquid dries up. Hands remain covered with a uniform layer of magnesia, which can be enough for 20-30 interceptions, depending on the quality of the magnesia and the nature of the relief.

This type of magnesia is more convenient to use on short climbing routes, in bouldering, speed climbing, pole dance, in weightlifting. Depending on the manufacturer and chemical composition, liquid magnesia can dry at different rates and hold differently on your hands. Choosing liquid magnesia is necessary on your own experience or on the advice of a trainer. Magnesia gets the best reviews among the buyers of our store.

Advantages

  • Easy to apply
  • Liquid Magnesia fills the pores of the skin and stays on the hands longer
  • More hygienic, does not form dust clouds around the athlete and leaves almost no marks on the sports equipment

Flaws

  • It cannot be used directly during exercise, as it takes time to dry.
  • Often more expensive than conventional powder

Magnesia Gel

Gel- an alternative to traditional powder and liquid magnesium. This type of magnesia is an excellent solution for bouldering, speed climbing, kettlebell lifting, pole dancing. A fairly new form of magnesia that may be suitable for you if liquid magnesium cannot be used due to an allergic skin reaction to alcohol or other ingredients. One of the most popular gels is.

Advantages

  • This is the most economical magnesia format. Very little gel is needed to completely cover your hands.
  • It does not dry out the skin as much as the liquid. There are alcohol-free gels
  • Dries faster than liquid magnesium and stays on hands longer
  • Does not create dust clouds and is not harmful to health
  • Convenient to transport, does not crumble or spill

Flaws

  • Cannot be used while passing the route
  • Does not combine with other types of magnesia

  1. Any magnesia is very dry to the skin, so after finishing your workout, we advise you to wash your hands well with soap and water and apply a moisturizer on them.
  2. If you are using chalk for rock climbing, it is convenient to combine liquid and powdered chalk when climbing long routes (difficulty). Before the start, apply liquid to your hands, and during the course of the route, you can, if necessary, additionally use powdered magnesia from the bag.
  3. Use liquid chalk for bouldering and speed climbing. In these types of climbing, a single application of magnesium to the hands is often enough, and the damage to your lungs is much less.
  4. Apply magnesia not only to your fingers, but also to the entire surface of your palm.
  5. For kettlebell lifting, magnesium is more suitable in highly compressed briquettes, for example, magnesia
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