Last year I already demonstrated my first version of the rear wheel drive on a bike with a motor (). Further than a prototype and several kilometers of sea trials, it did not go due to the unsuccessful design of a homemade worm-type gearbox. Only this year he again took up the development of another drive. This time, he did not "philosophize slyly" and made a speed reduction mechanism based on a belt and chain drive with a total gear ratio of approximately 1:26 ... The chainsaw was again used as a motor. Homelite CSP3314 with 1.78 hp engine and from 125,000 rpm.

From the motor of the chainsaw, the torque is transmitted from a small pulley with a diameter of 16 mm (the design is such, although it can be done much easier)

on a pulley with a diameter of 160 mm, which is rigidly connected on the same shaft with a conventional bicycle ratchet, set in reverse. The sprockets are set in such a way that a 16-toothed sprocket is installed at the end of the wheel. From there, through a regular bicycle chain, the force is transmitted to a large 46-tooth sprocket attached to the brake disc.

Sea trials were scheduled for the coming weekend. There were also small inconsistencies that had to be eliminated within two days.

06/28/2014 Saturday morning- Everything was already ready for sea trials, but when checking the real gear ratio from the engine to the rear wheel, it turned out that it was only 1:18 , but not 1:26 (as it should have come out according to the calculations). The whole thing turned out to be in the belt drive. This ratio will not allow the bike to move normally and therefore the rental of a bike with a motor is postponed for some time. There are options to improve this indicator, but in addition to the belt drive, the chain drive will also have to be changed, which will require reworking the structure and, accordingly, additional time.

06/29/2014 Sunday, evening- Changes are mostly made. Checking the gear ratio showed 1:33 , which is acceptable for testing the motor drive in action. But unexpectedly the weather intervened - the rains began again, which (as the forecasters promise) will pass for several days.

1.07.2014 Tuesday. Even in the morning it was raining a little, and by lunchtime the wind rose and began to slowly disperse the clouds. It's time to test my Motor Vernor XC with a motor in action. There are usually no problems with starting up problems on chainsaws. It starts with a half-poke. When starting off, I had to help a little with the pedals. On a flat road, I moved not very quickly, but confidently. The bike computer showed a maximum speed of 28 km / h (it did not give full speed). In the first lift, the motor began to slip. Visual inspection showed that oil got on the belt and it began to slip. There was no other belt - I just had to pull it up in order to at least shoot a video. I have not yet reached the maximum speed. The most important thing is that the bike rides on a motor. There is still a lot of work ahead - something needs to be redone, to lighten the structure ... in general - "to bring to mind."

P.S. During the next week I drove as it was, but there was not enough acceleration dynamics and in small climbs I already had to help with the pedals, and then I decided to change Homelite CSP3314 on Husqvarna 137 with engine power 2.2 HP The alteration took about 3 days.

With a more powerful engine, acceleration dynamics immediately became noticeable, and although maximum speed on the bike computer remained at the level of 32-34 km / h - it became much easier to ride. In the future, to increase the speed, you need to think about how you can use the variator.

In 2015 ...

October 2015... Almost all summer I did not go to the bike. Everything free time went to a used Chinese scooter and at the end of the season, starting somewhere in August, he took up his Motor Vernor XC... First, I brought the chain from the motor to "mind", because at the end of the 2014 season it began to constantly subside. Then he made sure that the motor can be started and stopped without stopping the bike, thus giving sometimes a break from the engine noise, as well as on long descents. The variator just asked for construction, but again everything moves to the next season.

To be continued….

There is two-wheeled bicycle... And the old chainsaw, the chain on which has long been dull, but the engine itself works fine. The author of the “Temnaya FAZA” channel came up with the idea to assemble a moped with his own hands, to put a chainsaw on the rear wheel of a bicycle.

The chain starts to rotate only when the throttle button is pressed. This is due to the fact that the clutch mechanism is based on the effect of centrifugal force. With an increase in the crankshaft rotation speed, the special clutch increases in diameter and the torque is transmitted to the chain. Let's try to put a bicycle chain instead of chainsaw. To do this, you need to weld the sprocket to the clutch. It is necessary to weld as smoothly as possible, since at such high revolutions, the flown off chain can make a cripple out of a cyclist.

Please note that there is no resistance when the sprocket rotates. Then I installed a large bicycle sprocket on the rear wheel specifically to reduce wheel rpm and increase traction. For the same purpose, I decided to make a homemade gearbox.


I took the leading sprocket with a small diameter, and the driven one, on the contrary, with a large one. So we increase the traction force of the motorbike, but at the same time, we directly reduce the speed. rear wheel.

Setting up a chainsaw on a bicycle is quite difficult. It is much easier to order a motor on aliexpress. I decided to place it on the trunk, in our case this place is optimal. Let's say we got on a bike. We spin the pedals and go.


After a while, tired of pedaling, we decided to start the engine. To refuel the chainsaw, it is necessary to mix gasoline and oil in a ratio of 20: 1. The ratio of teeth on the drive and driven is 3: 8 and 5: 16. It turns out that the speed of rotation of the rear wheel will be approximately 8.5 times less than the speed of the crankshaft. The circumference of the rear wheel is 2 m, the maximum crankshaft rotation of the chainsaw is 8000 rpm. Just a mathematical calculation and a bike without load can accelerate to 113 kilometers per hour. Of course, if the biker gets on the bike, the speed will decrease. Now you need to make sure that the throttle stick is located on the steering wheel. So, the super bike is ready. The author will test it in the next video.

If you want to make yourself a simple moped out of a bicycle, you can take a closer look at this design. As a power unit, the author used an engine from a chainsaw, but you can also adapt the engine from a petrol cutter and other tool. Large alterations are not required here, you just need to find a small sprocket that is welded to the chainsaw clutch. You will also need bicycle chain, some screws, corner and other little things.

DIY materials and tools:
- the engine from a chainsaw (it is possible with a dead body, but with a normal piston);
- clamps;
- bolts with nuts;
- bicycle chain;
- small sprocket (attached to the engine clutch);
- cable, handle (for throttle control);
- welding;
- grinder;
- spanners;
- headlight, rear stop, battery, generator and other electrical equipment (if desired).

The process of installing the engine on the bike:

Step one. Determine the installation location and remove unnecessary
First of all, you have to decide on the location of the engine. Bicycle designs vary, just like chainsaws. The author installs the engine over the drive sprocket. The principle is to use a chain to connect the engine shaft to the bicycle's drive sprocket, on which the connecting rods with pedals are located. In other words, the engine simply replaces the cyclist's legs. This design is simple, and if desired, it will be possible to make the bike change gears.

Having chosen the right place, we unscrew, and what does not unscrew, we cut off from the chainsaw with the help of a grinder. The author unscrewed the top handle and also shortened the back a little. In addition, the top cover and throttle grip were removed. Try to leave the gas tank, throttle cable, and choke in place.

Step two. Making an asterisk
The most difficult part homemade is the search for the drive sprocket, which is installed on the clutch. To obtain good pulling power, the sprocket should be as small as possible. If you can't find one, you can try to carve it yourself, although you need good durable steel, which will need to be hardened, otherwise the sprocket will quickly wear out.

Having found the sprocket, weld it to the part of the clutch where the chain runs at the chainsaw, that is, in the place of the old chainsaw sprocket. In some designs, the sprockets are removed from the clutch, in some they are not. When welding, it is extremely important that the sprocket is fixed as evenly as possible, otherwise the chain may fly off, and the wear will be much stronger. The clutch can then be reattached. This approach will save fuel while coasting. However, the back bicycle wheel also switchable, so that in any case the bike will coast.

Step three. We fix the engine
An important task is to securely fasten the engine, otherwise, if it comes off, everything may end in disastrously. Here you will need corners, and aluminum is best, since they are lighter. Choose their number and location depending, again, on the features of the chainsaw and bike. Everything is fastened with bolts and nuts. The author drills the frame of the bicycle under the bolts through and through, you can do the same with the body of the chainsaw.

Step four. Redesigning the front sprocket block
Next, you have to remake the front block of the bicycle sprockets, this is the one with the cranks. You can immediately cut the connecting rods to the root, they are not needed, and will interfere with driving.

Next, we take the grinder and cut off the smallest sprocket from the block. Instead, you will need to fasten another, even smaller. It can also be welded. As a result, we get another decrease in engine speed, which increases the traction power of the bike. After that, the asterisk can be put in its place. Also cut off the connecting rod located on the other side.

Step five. Choke and ignition
To control the engine, you need a throttle stick, you can buy it yourself or remove it from a moped. Instead of a handle, you can also make a pedal, a lever, and so on.

In addition, install a switch in a convenient place and connect the ignition wire to it. This will make it easy to shut off the engine if necessary.

Step six. Installing the chain
To connect the motor to the sprocket, you will need another bike chain. Adjust it to size by removing the extra links. After starting the engine, the author had a problem, the chain was constantly flying off due to its long length. To solve this problem, it is necessary to make stabilizers for the circuit. For these purposes, the author needed copper tube, a chain was passed through it, the tube itself was fixed to the frame. An extra small sprocket has also been installed to tighten the chain.

Step seven. Installation of footrests
On a bicycle, it is imperative to make footpegs so that there is where to put your feet. The author makes them very simply, from bolts and nuts. We just drill the frame into the right place and fasten the screws with nuts.

You can also install tubing on the bolt rods to add style to the footrests.

The versatility of gasoline chainsaws is proven not only by their multitasking and functionality, but also by the abundance of useful homemade products that craftsmen have learned to make with their own hands. They save money on expensive factory gadgets that most people simply don't have money for. But, as they say, the need for invention is acute. Therefore, speaking about chainsaws, many represent not only felling or pruning an orchard, but also winches, ice screws, boat motors, grinders, sawmills, which technically competent craftsmen have learned to adapt from everyone's favorite gasoline tool.

Means of movement deserve no less attention - bicycles, mopeds, go-karts, ATVs and much more that can be assembled using a chain saw with a gasoline engine. We will talk in this article about how and from what to recreate them and surprise others with an incredible motorized design.

DIY chainsaw motorcycle

Not every lucky bike owner is delighted with the need to pedal and waste your energy. A motorized bicycle is more convenient and less expensive in terms of power.

A bicycle with a chainsaw motor with your own hands is not as difficult to make as it seems at first glance. For this you will need:

• bike;
• a saw with a gas engine power of at least 2000 W - it will depend on this indicator whether he can get under way. As practice shows, the engine power is 2 hp. it is enough for the motorbike to reach a speed of up to 40 km / h;
• a tank for the future fuel tank;
• cable from an old bike;
• a handle to be able to adjust the throttle;
• bolt ties, nuts and other small consumables for creating fasteners;
• connecting elements to create a connection between the wheels and the engine.

The process of putting a chainsaw engine on a bicycle is as follows:

• we aggregate the drive shaft - remove the rear wheel tire and put on a tire with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm. This equipment will help to take the engine speed, and, like a gearbox, reduce the speed;
• electric welding we weld the stand from the corners - it will help to install the engine from the chainsaw;
• alteration of the clutch - you can use a centrifugal one from a factory saw, connecting it to the wheel;
• we adapt the gas tank - it can be located next to the engine, or on the frame;
• we fix the wire from the ignition system of the motor to one of the bicycle handles;
• attach a cable from the carburetor to the throttle handle so that control of the throttle valve is simple and quick;
• we equip the motorbike with protective equipment: mirrors, a flashlight, and proceed to the test homemade bike from a chainsaw.

As you can see, it is not so difficult to put a motor from a chainsaw on a bicycle.

How to make a moped from a chainsaw?

The dream of the youth of most of our fellow citizens was and remains a moped. It develops a higher speed and has a structure that is more perfect than the above described motorbike. Buying a ready-made moped is not a cheap pleasure. We will tell you how to make it from scrap materials.

For this you will need:

• a motor from a serviceable powerful saw (in our version, this is the "Friendship" model);
• 2 wheels from an old bike;
• pipe with a diameter of 2 cm (metal);
• cable;
• bicycle sprockets; as well as forks;
• old motorcycle parts - a ready-made fuel tank, a headlight, and a seat if desired, although you can also make it yourself;
• steering part;
• throttle lever.

The process of creating a moped looks like this:

• we cook the frame to which we connect the wheels from the bicycle, forks, as well as a gas tank and a flashlight;
• adapting the motor - the composition of the installation will depend on the configuration of the frame;

• we fasten the gas tank and battery;
• we check that the newly installed elements do not dangle;
• we make a chain drive - it will allow the wheels to receive the motor torque and move. You can use a belt instead of a chain pulley. But we must not forget that its wear will be noticeably higher;
• we set up the ignition system - we connect the battery and the brake lever with it;
• we fit the exhaust pipe.

The assembly process is complete: you can start testing the moped.

DIY chainsaw karting: step by step assembly

Karting is a modern vehicle that can cover a considerable distance in a short period of time. Exclusive kart is every car enthusiast's dream. It is not necessary to participate in races with it: you can easily move on rough terrain, on rural roads, and indeed everywhere where a larger car will not pass.

Among possible options rigging has gained immense popularity home-made karting from a chainsaw - no less powerful and productive than their serial counterparts. Let's consider in stages.

Preparatory stage

It starts with a detailed drawing and design. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the finished drawing, which will save time on design;

The proposed dimensions are suitable for a person of average height. For teens and tall people the design must be tailored to their individual parameters. For teenagers, you can use the other scheme below.

Putting together the base of the construct

This is a chassis, the manufacture of which will require:

• square pipes (up to 10 m);
• steel pipes;
• thick steel plate;
• bottom blocking equipment;
• armchairs.

The process looks like this:

• pipes are cut according to the proposed scheme and welded by electric welding.

• Here's what should be done after welding;

• the front axle is equipped with plugs;
• the rear axle is aggregated - it is welded to the frame itself in such a way that its turning is ensured;
• the bottom is cut out of metal or solid wood according to the drawing and fitted to the frame;
• seat - in this case, you don't have to bother and take a ready-made one from an old card or car.

Karting equipment by motor

• remove the motor from the chainsaw;

• we make a base for the motor - from a steel plate and a corner. Its pulley must match the last frame structure;
• screw the pulley with screws;
• we take 2 metal rods, which we bend at a right angle - this will be the drive of the go-kart steering wheel;

• adjusting the brakes - it is desirable that the braking extends to all 4 wheels. Do not forget about the brake pedal: it will be very inconvenient to press the brake with your hands;

• we equip karting with wheels - wheels with a small diameter from an old racing car are suitable;
• we adjust the ignition - we connect it to the throttle valve and the gas handle;
• reliability control assembly and testing of the finished unit.

Go-karting is a luxury for an ordinary person, but with the help of available tools, you can create a budget version - go-kart with a chainsaw engine.

No less famous homemade product, which the domestic "Kulibins" have learned to make. To recreate it, we need:

• a scooter designed for the weight of the person who will be driving it. It is desirable that he initially had a manual braking system. The pneumatic wheelbase of the scooter must be strong;
• the chainsaw from which the engine is removed - medium and high-power models are suitable.

The scooter assembly process looks simplified compared to previous homemade products:

• First, remove the motor base and fix it at the rear of the scooter frame. We make sure that the motor and wheel sprockets match;
• we fix a manual accelerator with the ignition of the chainsaw - so the operator can control the movement process;
• if necessary, equip the scooter with a brake pedal, but in most cases, the lever for manual control of the scooter is enough for its full operation.
• testing a scooter from a chainsaw - in case of serviceability, the new motorized device is ready and can be used.

Homemade children's ATV from a chainsaw

The last homemade product we will look at will be dedicated to ATVs. In fact, building an ATV requires similar materials as for a go-kart or tricycle:

• engine from an old powerful and working chainsaw;
• gearbox - increases the thrust of the motor and takes over its working speed;
• ATV frame - it should be stronger and more stable;
• driver's seat - it's good if there is an old moped seat: a teenager will be more comfortable in it than in a bulky car;
• wheels with rough tread, diameter not less than 34-35 cm each. This will improve the cross-country ability of the ATV and make it an analogue of an SUV.

If desired, the prefabricated structure of the ATV can be brought to perfection with shock absorbers: the ATV's maneuverability will increase, and the working stroke will become smoother.

Homemade vehicles- a cheap thing, but not always reliable. They can only be used with strict adherence to all safety regulations.

Improvements.
v.0.1
The clutch cup has been improved, the main types of belts PJ, K, SPZ, 3V are supported.
Can be used to connect additional attachments.
Implement the option of a grinder on a chainsaw, the so-called gas cutter.
v.1.0
Added tension rollers.
The first test drive was carried out (02.24.2013). So far without an adequate throttle stick. Just a piece of rope. In principle, it works. You can play further.
The engine cannot accelerate on its own. But on the other hand, it easily maintains a given speed. Does not move from a place. Grabs if you accelerate to about 10 km / h. According to my subjective assessments. Perceptible vibration is transmitted through the saddle to the rear. You need to think about some kind of foam lining. For such a vibration is hardly helpful.
v.1.1
Construction details.
Added photos and videos.

v.1.2
Economics of the project.

The engine from the Chinese chainsaw 45 cm3 - cost 300 UAH (38 $).
I took without 2 tires and 2 chains included. Naked engine.

Steel rim 20 "- 30 UAH ($ 4).

V-ribbed belt 4PJ1600 - 70 UAH ($ 9).
I found Сontitech. Although there are many firms producing them.

Steel corner 25x25 mm - 1.1 m - 20 UAH ($ 5)
Steel strip 40x5 mm - 1.5 m - 20 UAH ($ 5)

Hardware - M8 bolts, M8 nuts, washers, grover, M4 bolts, M4 nuts - 80 UAH ($ 10)
Expensive because I took it at retail different lengths and so on as needed.

Washers d8xd28x3mm - for the M8 bolt, called for wood - 8 pcs.
They need to be machined along the outer diameter of 26.4 mm with a tolerance of -0.1 mm.
They are needed to attach the chainsaw to the bike.
They are inserted from 2 sides into 4 landing holes in the body of the chainsaw with a mandatory rubber gasket of the same size and thickness, also from 2 sides, so as not to crush the silumin body. From the side of the recoil starter, you will have to carefully cut holes in the plastic housing for the rear bolt to exit. Under the front bolt, it will only be enough to slightly shorten the plastic tab.

Brackets for mounting the rim - from a plate for fastening pipes or boxes - 5 pcs. - 5 UAH (1 $)
It is cut and bent as much as necessary, it is better to bend in places with a weakened lateral triangular notch, as intended during installation.

Rod M10 (tensioner attached to the saddle tube) - 16 UAH. ($ 10)
P.S. If I had bought a 1700mm long belt, I wouldn't need it at all. One could make a one-piece frame, like a bicycle rack. But since ... then ...

Dropper tube d4 mm. - 8 UAH (1 $)

Total - 550 UAH. (70 $)

Add about UAH 1,000 ($ 125) to the factory parts.

Main part.
The idea arose to make a bicycle with a chainsaw engine, purely for pampering.
And along the way to understand the engines. And then, to my shame, I have no experience.

On the forums, they mainly write how to do it with a trimmer engine (brushcutters).
But with the engine from a chainsaw - there is no information.
Since the engine from a chainsaw is very inconvenient to use for these purposes :)
But since it is cheaper, 2-3 times, in comparison with the engine from the brushcutter (and there is not much money for all sorts of nonsense)
It was decided to try to implement this idea.

So, the cheapest Chinese chainsaw "Dnipro-M" 45 cm3 was bought.
Dnipro-M, Baikal, Goodluck, Ural, Taiga, Stavr, Temp, Foresta, Brigadier, Siberia, Craft-Tec, Kraftech "," Sturm "," Einhell "," Sadko "," Energomash "," Energia "," Zenith "," Start "," PowerTec "," Techmash "," Shark "," EuroTec "," Cedar " , "Proton", "Stern", etc. (tired of writing) these are all clones of the Japanese Komatsu Zenoah chainsaw of various versions.
In particular, "Dnipro-M" clone of Komatsu Zenoah g-455-avs g-500-avs.

Great - Ardis Santana 26 ".

Typical appearance with light variations on the theme:

Hidden text: Typical appearance of Chinese chainsaws

The ideology of a bicycle with a chainsaw engine:
1. Belt transmission.
2. Clutch - the native centrifugal clutch of the chainsaw.
3. Drive pulley - directly on the centrifugal clutch.
4. The driven wheel is a 20 "bicycle rim.

Front of works.
1. Belt transmission - poly-V-belt 4PJ1600 (4 - number of grooves, PJ - section type, 1600 - belt length in mm). It is quite possible to take a belt with a length in the range of 1600-1700 mm and play with tension rollers and engine mounting height. 1600 mm is already close to the rear wheel guard. And the fastening must be carried out with an already disassembled engine, that is, without a gas tank handle. At 1700 mm, it will be possible to try to mount the whole saw directly to the trunk. You can use a belt of domestic production GOST 1284.1-89. The type of section used is K. But it has a slight difference from the foreign PJ in the step.

2. The driven wheel - a 20 "bicycle rim, is attached directly to the spokes of the rear wheel. I took the cheapest steel one with a width of 30 mm. Holes ø4.2 mm are drilled along the perimeter of the side of the rim opposite the spokes. Fasten with M4 screws 30 mm long. Adjust the required amount M4 nuts in order to achieve the desired departure of the driven wheel from the tire tread.
It can be fixed either with 2 washers or a double-folded steel plate with a hole of 4.2-4.5 mm. I took as a blank a steel pressure plate for pipes or wires with numerous perforations with holes of just the right diameter.

3. When disassembling the centrifugal clutch without special. key, the nut with the left-hand thread was broken.
Although in all forums they wrote that the Russian universal key is just what you need.
Therefore, I also had to make a nut.

Hidden text: clutch_nut

4. Special. clutch nut wrench. (Who wants it simpler can be made from a pipe)

Hidden text: Spec. clutch nut wrench

5. Clutch cams. Just in case. Didn't manufacture. I left my family, but I think it will be a consumable.

Hidden text: Clutch cams

6.1. Clutch cup made in one piece with the drive pulley.

Hidden Text: Clutch Cup

6.2. Buildable clutch cup.

Hidden text: Buildable clutch cup

7. Replacing the oil pump drive bushing. For some reason I called it a washer, probably because, in principle, it can be done without a cylindrical part extending into the depth of the body, just like a washer. :)

Hidden text: Replacing the oil pump drive bushing

8. Heat-treated washer, between the clutch cup and the washer replacing the oil pump sleeve.

Hidden text: Washer hardened

9. Belt tension rollers. I recommend doing two. The first one, on the one hand, rigidly fixed, gives the direction of the belt and increases the angle of coverage of the drive pulley. And the second is spring-loaded. Role: Constancy of belt tension with various system inaccuracies and also gives belt direction and increases the angle of wrap of the drive pulley. Two versions were created, the first for a 6x19x6 mm bearing and the second for a 10x22x6 mm bearing. The first version seemed a little flimsy to me. Therefore, a more reinforced version was created 2. But on the current sample, the version with a 6x19x6 mm bearing stands as a rigid roller, and with a 10x22x6 mm bearing as a spring-loaded one. Both are working fine at the time of the test drive.

Used bearings:
6x19x6 6-80026С17 GOST 7242-81, 626-2RS SKF
10x22x6 61900-2RS1 SKF

General view of the tension roller assembly (without fasteners). The final fixation of the roller on the bearings is carried out by light punching out at 3 points. Since he did not block the retaining rings.