In this article, we will talk about which homemade plastic pipes you can assemble yourself. Indeed, after the completion of the construction of the sewer, water supply or heating system, a large amount of unnecessary materials remain for which, by the way, money from the family budget was paid not so long ago.

It is most likely that it will not work to use unnecessary pipe cuts for its intended purpose, since the finished plumbing system has already been built. Again, it will not be possible to give the surplus to the store. But if you connect your imagination to seemingly unnecessary remnants of the pipeline, it will not be difficult to find a use.

In the photo - the frame of a summer cottage

What is required to work with polymer pipes

Instructions for the processing and installation of structures using plastic pipes involves the use of the following tools:

• special cutter cutting at right angles, if necessary, you can use a hacksaw for metal;
• , as a last resort, you can use an acetylene torch;
• fitting- connecting elements, which are selected in accordance with the type of pipes.

So, after we have decided what tools and materials will be required to carry out the planned work, we will consider the technology for making various crafts.

Making snowshoes

Snowy winter for most of the post-Soviet space is a climatic norm, and therefore accessories for comfortable movement in deep snow are relevant for many compatriots. It is not difficult to assemble snowshoes with your own hands from plastic pipes, especially since you do not need a special tool for this.

So, if you are not used to skiing, but you are attracted by walking in a snowy forest, it's time to start making snowshoes. Let's try to make a device for a person of average height with a weight of no more than 70 kg.

For this we need the following materials:

• from 20 mm - 4.5 m;
• metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 20 mm - 2 m;
• tees with dimensions 25-20-25 mm - 12 pcs;
• tees with dimensions 20-20-20 mm - 4 pcs;
• kegs - 20 mm - 4 pcs;
• laminated plywood (thickness not less than 4 mm);
• ski semi-rigid bindings;
• screws and screws.

The instruction for carrying out the work is as follows:

• We cut polypropylene blanks 4 pcs. 65 cm each, and 8 pcs. by 23 cm.
• We cut blanks from metal-plastic 4 pcs. 50 cm each.
• Metal-plastic blanks, using a special spring, bend in a semicircle;
• Using a soldering iron or an acetylene torch, melt the ends of the polypropylene blanks and connect them to the tees as shown in the photo.
• It remains to collect all the blanks into a single structure using the same soldering iron. On a frame assembled from pipes, we attach plywood squares, directly onto which ski bindings can be fixed.

So, we looked at the general instructions for assembling snowshoes intended for use in winter.

A raft made from materials left after the assembly of the sewer

Is there anything you can do to apply during the warmer months? Of course, you can, for example - a homemade catamaran made of plastic pipes.

For the assembly of a catamaran type raft, you can use main polyvinyl chloride (PVC) sewer pipes. The advantage of using these products is the presence of a socket joint and special fittings that can be used to cover the ends.

Note! There are no less durable polyethylene pipes on the market, but such products are difficult to weld at the ends, so we will consider an option based on PVC components.

In order for the raft to stay afloat, two floats of the appropriate size are required. The best choice will be PVC pipes with a diameter of at least 500 mm.

The assembly instructions are as follows:

• a solid frame measuring 6 * 2 meters is assembled from an aluminum corner or from a board;
• pipes are pulled together with clamps as shown in the figure;
• the float structure is bolted to the frame;
• sealed plugs are put on the socket ends of the pipes;
• from the side of the rolled ends, socket couplings and plugs are put on;
• a boardwalk is made on the frame.

Important: A catamaran assembled in accordance with the instructions must have fully sealed floats. Therefore, it is necessary to make sure that there are rubber O-rings at the connection between the pipe and the plug and that water does not seep inside.

Since we already know the instructions for making a raft, it remains to take care of making fishing tackle. Consider how a gutter is made from a plastic pipe.

Making a summer zherlitsa

The main disadvantage of many rivers and lakes from the point of view of a fisherman is the presence of coastal bushes and other vegetation. Coastal thickets impede fishing using a spinning rod, and it is in this case that a zerlitsa is used, which is easy to make with your own hands from scraps of a plastic pipe.

For the manufacture of a girdle, you can use PVC pipe cuttings 6 cm long and 5 cm in diameter.You can use a large length of cylinders, but as practice has shown, these dimensions are the most successful, since they allow you to wind the required amount of cord or fishing line. There are no special requirements for the color of pipes, you can use the most common modifications of white or gray.

Cooking a sleigh from the remains of a water supply

Finally, I would like to consider a recipe for making some vehicle... Of course, it will not be possible to assemble a velomobile from plastic pipes, since the strength of this material is insufficient in order not to deform under the muscular influence of the cyclist on the structure as a whole. But children's sleds made of pipes will even work out.

Are there any polypropylene plumbing parts left? And, of course, there is nowhere to apply them, but it's a pity to throw them away? Do not rush to throw out unnecessary pipes, as you can make a good sled from them.

Factory sleds for a child can be purchased with the onset of the season in any supermarket and the price of this purchase will be low. On the other hand, collecting sleds from plastic pipes, you can dispose of the waste left after replacing the water supply. In addition, it will be possible to obtain valuable experience work with polypropylene, which will probably come in handy later.

Let's start the assembly with the installation of the runners.

For this we need:

• 6 segments polypropylene pipe 1 meter long and 25 mm in diameter;
• 10 corner joints at 45 degrees;
• 12 connections made at right angles;
• 6 tees for mounting the top of the sled.

Let's start assembling the runners:

• From one of the ends of the prepared one-meter pipes, using a soldering iron, we fasten the corner fittings at 45 degrees.
• On 2 segments, which will be located in the middle of the runners, we fasten with a step of 20 cm from each other 3 tees into which the props will be inserted.
• In front and behind, we make bends of the runners, as shown in the photo. All welded joints are reinforced with self-tapping screws for greater strength.

At the next stage of the assembly, it remains to install the supports under the boardwalk. We cut the supports from the same polypropylene pipes.

Important: The size of the supports is determined from the considerations that the lower they are, the stronger the whole structure will turn out.

In the same way as the runners, we strengthen the props with self-tapping screws. At the final stage of installation work, the runners are sheathed with laminated plywood. The same material can be attached to the top of the assembled sled.

Conclusion

So, we looked at several examples of how you can use the pipes remaining after the repair. Of course, there are many more such methods. It is enough to show a little imagination, and you yourself can figure out how to use seemingly unnecessary construction waste for the benefit of your house or summer cottage.

Still have any questions? You can find more useful information by watching the video in this article.

At one time, I tried many different designs of girders. He started, like many others, with a wooden flyer. I tested factory-made plastic devices that resemble the same flyer. Then there were cuttings of rubber hoses and plastic bottles with fishing line wound around them.

Having summarized my very rich experience in this area, I came to create the best, in my opinion, girders. Thirty years have passed since then, and I have practically nothing to add to this design even now, and therefore I consider it almost ideal. I myself currently fish mainly with spinning, but many friends and acquaintances still use my girders with pleasure.

You can make such a gutter from a plastic tube - the same one that is commonly used in plumbing as a water pipe (for our purposes, PVC, polypropylene or polyethylene pipes are suitable, which are both generally available and cheap).

We need a white tube (the most common option) - this is noticeable from afar. In addition, when the fish, when biting, removes the dark fishing line from the white tube, the zerlitsa seems to change color, signaling the bite. This moment can be seen from afar, which makes fishing more efficient.

The length of the pipe when purchasing depends on the number of vents that you need. The calculation here is quite simple: the length of the gutter for fishing from the shore is 12-15 cm, for fishing from the boat, you can use shorter girders - up to 10 cm.With regard to the diameter of the tube (it is usually measured in inches), it makes sense to choose it so that both the tips of the twin hook were hidden inside the tube during transportation - it is very convenient and safe.

We cut the purchased pipe into blanks according to the selected dimensions. Then, on each workpiece, we drill a through hole of 5-6 mm on one side and make a slot with a depth of 8-10 mm on the other side with a manual jigsaw. Now we equip the vest body with a strong rope for fastening and a fishing line, which can be easily and quickly wound on the tube "in bulk", or you can wind it a little slower, but evenly and beautifully, turn to turn.

We fix the sinker on the fishing line, tie a carabiner, to it - a leash with a hook. A piece of polystyrene, strung on a fishing line, will be useful if you put the girder near the shore: when the sinker lies at the bottom, the foam float does not allow the bait to lie down on the bottom.

For gutters installed from a boat, a foam float is not needed, there the sinker is suspended above the live bait. The length of the fishing line for coastal vents is usually 5-6 m, for boat ones 3-4 m is enough, so I have some shorter than others. However, this depends more on personal preferences - you can make all the girders the same, but the visualization of the bite, if too little dark fishing line is initially wound on the tube, will deteriorate.

Now a little about the tricks of attaching the vents during installation.

One - with a clamping tube, which should move with some interference along the rope folded in half. This method allows you to quickly fasten and then unhook the girder, especially for a bunch of coastal grass. By the way, do not be afraid that the pike will be able to tear the girder away from this grass, well, perhaps the "crocodile".

The second mounting option is simpler, but also effective. For him, you just need to fold the fastening rope into a loop, and tighten it on a peg.

A few simple recommendations for equipping the vents. As I already mentioned, we attach a carbine to the fishing line. This is done so that the leash can be easily attached and detached. Why is this needed, after all, by tying it directly to the fishing line, we simplify the design? The whole point is that, having pulled out the caught fish, we can simply and quickly disconnect the leash, put another one with a hook in its place and, having planted a live bait, re-install the girder, and remove the leash from the fish at home.

In the case of a tied leash, we will have to cut it off, then tie a new one, and this is time, nerves, and sometimes also mosquitoes ...

We choose the leash material according to our own taste - from homemade, from guitar string, up to the brand name, made of titanium. Some people use a very thick (over 1 mm) mono line as a pike leash, which has its own advantages: invisibility and low cost.

And a little about live bait for girders. Do not use minnows, minnows, or other small fish. Do not feel sorry for a large crucian carp or roach - from 15 cm or more. The larger the live bait, the more likely it is to catch a large pike, and minnows and gudgeons most often come across only squints. Taking into account the specificity of the tackle, it is hardly possible to let them go. So if you are going to fish with zerlitsy, then a decent fish.

Those who consider winter fishing to be a dull sitting over a hole in frosty weather are very mistaken. This activity is no less exciting than summer views fishing, and sometimes even surpasses open water fishing in terms of catchability.

Indeed, in order to catch a large pike from the shore in summer, for example, you need to work very hard to find a place for its anchorage. If you swim up to it on a boat, the cautious predator will surely leave its habitat, as soon as it notices your movements.

Fishing in the winter, off the ice, is another matter. Here on the ice you can get close to any place of the reservoir, you only need to know at least approximately where the predatory fish lives. Then it will only be necessary to put a girder, and not one, and then just watch when a bite occurs. And it is especially interesting to fish when this tackle is made by hand ...

Is it possible to make a girder with your own hands

Now there are a lot of options for girders in stores. There are located on small platforms, there are in the form of a tripod, there are enough options. but most of these designs require improvement... Some are too low and difficult to see if the snow is high. Others have little noticeable flag-signaling device. It happens that shop vents quickly freeze to ice or are carried away by the wind.

Expert opinion

Knipovich Nikolay Mikhailovich

Important! Homemade girders differ in that they do not need to be completed. After all, already in the process of making this tackle, you probably took into account all the required nuances and made the girder the one that is right for you and for this particular reservoir.

And it's not difficult to make the girder yourself. In fact, this is an ordinary donk with a large supply of fishing line, which unwinds during a bite. Basic Principle gnarling in the fact that when the predator grabs the bait and leaves with it to the side, she does not feel the resistance of the fishing line until a certain moment and deeply swallows the bait, now all that remains is to carefully hook it.

If you make a girdle with your own hands, you just have to figure out what will be a signaling device for the sudden unwinding of the fishing line. This is not necessarily a flag; in some designs, an ordinary twig or plastic bottle... In addition, some anglers prefer that the tackle remains completely in the water, there are already their own rules for making.

Advantages and disadvantages

The following factors can be attributed to the undoubted advantages of homemade girders, as well as gatherers in general:

• a do-it-yourself girdle no longer needs to be finalized;
• with a well thought-out design, it can be used on any body of water;
• depth too of great importance does not have;
• with the help of a homemade girder, you can catch a pike even in the wilderness;
• minimal cost - can be made from almost any available means;
• simplicity of design - even a beginner can successfully make a girder relatively quickly.

But this tackle has its drawbacks, let's be frank:

• none, even the best homemade tackle live bait will not do without, you will either have to buy it in advance, or catch it right there, in the reservoir;
• the parking place of the pike, not knowing the reservoir, is difficult to determine the first time, so you will have to run around the reservoir with girders in your hands - if store structures are mainly equipped with packages for quick packing and carrying of tackle, then homemade products are not always equipped with them;
• if you do not use protective shields, which are often neglected by "DIYers", the line gets tangled in the wind.

What can be done

There are enough options here:

• from a plastic pipe;
• made of duralumin strip;
• using a spring from an alarm clock;
• just from the hose;
• made of stainless steel wire;
• from a plastic bottle.

In short, fantasy in this regard can be limitless. Some even connect indicator lights. The principle of material selection is the same: the unwinding of the line should be noticeable at a certain distance.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make it yourself

Made of polypropylene

One of the most common, simplest and most convenient options for homemade girders at home. The starting material here is an ordinary polypropylene tube, which is used when laying a water supply system.

Expert opinion

Knipovich Nikolay Mikhailovich

Zoologist, hydrobiologist. I am fond of fishing at a professional level.

Important! It is advisable to use white, some of the tube is tinted at one end for greater visibility.

Choose the length of the tube yourself (when buying, take into account the number of vents that you are going to make), as for the diameter, it is not regulated either, it is only advisable to choose it so that the tee hook or its sting fits tightly into the tube during transportation, it is safer and more convenient ...

• cut the segments of the required length;
• on the one hand, we make a through hole with a diameter of about 5 mm;
• with another jigsaw, a cut is made;
• we equip the tube with a rope for fastening;
• evenly, turn to turn we wind the fishing line;
• we attach a sinker to the line;
• we also install a carabiner with a leash;
• we attach a hook to the leash.

Another option is to assemble a tackle with a cross, which is installed in the center of the tube, passing through it, and prevents the tackle from drowning in the hole.

The disadvantages of the tackle include its invisibility at a great distance and in heavy snow.

From a plastic bottle

This tackle is more often used for summer fishing, but it is also effective in winter. It is made like this:

• the main supply of fishing line is wound under the neck of the plastic bottle;
• the beginning of the line is tied through the hole in the lid;
• an elastic band for banknotes is fixed near the base of the fishing line;
• the end of the line with a tee and a sinker is passed through it;
• the required depth is measured;
• for reliability, you can tie a cord to the elastic, which is fixed on some kind of rack.

The principle of operation of such a girder is extremely simple. A little water is poured into the bottle, and it is lowered into the hole. In the normal state, it is slightly submerged from the bottom side or simply lies horizontally. When biting, the fishing line is released from under the elastic and unwound, after which the bottle is already recessed with the neck down and stands upright, which is clearly visible to the fisherman.

Flagless

The classic version winter girdle is the use of a flag or a tube - a signaling device, but for some this design seems too complicated. Then they use an ordinary wooden flyer found on the shore at all:

• on the flyer handle (the length can be left at 15-20 cm), tightly fix the loop for attaching the fishing line;
• wind the line itself on the ends of the flyer;
• tie a sinker and a leash with a tee to the end of the line.

The signal for a bite will be the flipping of the flyer in the hole.

There are actually a lot of non-flagged options for making a girdle. Here - who, in what way.

Expert opinion

Knipovich Nikolay Mikhailovich

Zoologist, hydrobiologist. I am fond of fishing at a professional level.

Interesting! Some people freely attach the coil to the rail without its inner part. When biting, it just falls on the ice and unwinds. The fall itself is already a signal of the approach of the fish.

True, this signal method is not very effective on loose large snow.

From the hose

This option is used to set the tackle under the ice using a cord. Such a zherlitsa is also made easy:

• take a piece of hose about 10-12 cm long;
• make a hole at one end of the segment;
• on another cut;
• the reel in this case is a hose;
• one end of the cord is fixed in the hole, the other is passed through the hose and passes through the slot;
• a leash from a fishing line and a sinker are tied to the cord.

PVC pipe

PVC tackle is made in the same way as polypropylene.

Plywood

The process is more complicated here:

• from plywood we cut out a circle-base for a groove;
• screw a bar to it, into which a polypropylene tube is inserted;
• screw the coil to the tube;
• attach the signal flag to a long narrow metal plate;
• insert the other end of the plate into the tube and fix it in it.

When installed, the flag plate is bent and fixed between the coil and the tube. During the unwinding of the line, the plate is released and the flag is raised.

With indicator light

The LED signaling device is usually mounted on a metal plate attached to a post made of any durable material.

Such a sensor is now freely available in stores. It starts flashing brightly when tilted. According to instructions. Such a signal is visible at a distance of up to 200 m.

You can make such an indicator yourself by placing a light bulb between the plates attached to the battery. The design should be made so that the line, stretching during unwinding, closes the chain.

Stainless wire

Manufacturing consistently looks like this:

• we take a wire with a diameter of 3 mm and a length of about 600 mm;
• bend to get a short and long end;
• bend the long one to make a convenient holder for the coil;
• a bite detector made of a thin plate or wire with a flag is attached to the short end.

Classic manufacturing technique

Almost every fisherman has information about the existence of a large number of different tackle designed for catching any type of fish. This article tells about zherlitsa. This tackle is designed for winter fishing. predatory fish, especially pike.

This tackle contributes to winter pike fishing, since it refuses to bite on other types of lures. Despite the fact that both winter and summer designs are distinguished, their principle of operation is almost the same. The design of such a tackle includes a reel with a fishing line and a flexible plate, at the end of which a bright flag is attached. The reel with line and plate are located on a special holder.

As far as we know, there are several types of girders:

• on the platform;
• with a vertical stand;
• type taganok;
• vents with a flat base.

Gadgets on the platform

Girders with a flat frame are very popular due to the simplicity of the device and operation. It can be easily and quickly installed on ice. Moreover, the flat base closes the hole, preventing it from freezing quickly. In addition, it shades the hole, which makes the tackle more catchy.

And yet, despite such promising indicators, this design has disadvantages. As fans of winter fishing note, such girders freeze to the ice and quickly fail. In the presence of wind, such a zherlitsa simply blows away from the hole.

Zherlitsy with a vertical stand

Considering the fact that such vents are made of metal, problems with its operation cannot be avoided. In severe frosts, it is impossible to work with it with open hands, especially if the hands are wet, and without this on winter fishing no way. Closer to spring, when the sun begins to warm up, the metal heats up very quickly and together with the installation of the vent, the ice begins to melt, which leads to its collapse.

Zherlitsy type taganok

This design is located on three legs, and it is made of aluminum. Like all types of vents, it consists of a reel with a line and a signal pole. Despite the apparent stability, it can easily fall in the event of a bite. In addition, it can simply be blown away by the wind. The disadvantage of this design is the complexity of its manufacture. The advantages include compactness and ease of use.

Important for every design

In any design of the girdle, the main elements must be present, on which the catchability and ease of use depend. What you should pay attention to:

• In order for bites to be noticeable at a considerable distance, the signal flag is used only in bright colors.
• The core of the coil should be plastic. The turns of the reel should not be light, otherwise the line will get tangled when biting.
• A sufficient amount of line is wound on the spool so that you can fish at different depths.
• The bite signaling element must be flexible enough.

Pike girdle set

The basis of any tackle for fishing is a fishing line. Since the line is not used so intensively on the gutter, a line of any company or any manufacturer is suitable for equipping it.

The diameter of the line is chosen depending on the size of the fish and can be in the range from 0.2 to 0.4 mm. As a rule, up to 25 m of fishing line is wound on a reel. A leash is required. Both a metal and a fluorocarbon leash will do, the main thing is that the pike cannot eat it. Depending on the size of the live bait, the weight of the sinker is also selected. The ratio of the mass of live bait to the weight of the cargo should be within 1: 2.5.

If the zherlitsa is installed on the river, then everything is much more complicated here, since the size of the load is chosen depending on the speed of the current. The main thing is that the load can keep the live bait at one point, closer to the bottom.

The device and drawings of the winter zherlitsa

Fig. 1. Base of the girdle

The standard equipment includes: the base of the vent (Fig. 1), a spring signaling device, a box at the base, a coil on the stand and its attachment point.

As a base, you can use materials such as plastic, plywood or aluminum. It is advisable to use 10 mm thick aluminum. At the base there is a coil mounting unit (Fig. 2).

Fig. 2. Methods for attaching the coil to the base

• A-block with a groove for the foot and a locking screw:
  1 - locking screw; 2 - rivets; 3 - rack; 4 - base; 5 - foot; 6 - block with a groove for the foot.
• B-screw screwed into the base block:
  1 - pin; 2 - screw; 3 - rivets; 4 - base; 5 - platform for the foot; 6 - foot; 7 - pin hole.
• B-nut - wing on the screw:
  1 - screw tightened motionlessly; 2 - wing nut; 3 - base; 4 - rivets.

Fig. 3 shows a diagram of the fastening of the vents' parts

1 - base; 2 - box; 3 - coil; 4 - rack; 5 - rack attachment unit; 6 - fixing elements; 7 - line hole.

Figure 3 it is shown that the center of the hole "a" is located at a distance of 12 mm from the edge of the frame and lies parallel to the center of the fastening element. This distance depends on the amount of turn of the coil, therefore it is found experimentally, after installing the coil. The center of the spool should be aligned with the center of the line hole.

Fig. 4- workpiece for the rack with cutting lines.

Fig. 5- mounting bracket.

Fig. 6- nozzle box.

Fig. 7- indicates two options for mounting the indicator:

• using a plate;
• using a corner:

1. Rack.
2. Nest.
3. Plate.
4. Rivets.
5. Corner.

Fig. 8- shows the rack assembly.

The process of making a winter girdle with your own hands

Zinc-plated and stainless wire gutters

To bend a reliable frame for the gutter, you need to take a wire with a diameter of at least 3 mm and a length of 550 to 700 mm. The wire is bent to form a short and long end. The short end does not extend to the long end, by about 100 mm. Thereafter, the long end is bent to form a spool holder.

The bite alarm, made of flexible steel wire, is attached to the short end. A bright flag is fixed to the end of the signaling device.

From a plastic tube

To do this, you need to take a plastic tube and cut off a part of the tube from it, 10 to 16 cm long, depending on the fishing conditions. The thickness of the tube does not play a special role. For fishing from the shore, this can be a piece of tube from 13 to 16 cm long, and for fishing from ice, its length can be no more than 10 cm.

To begin with, a through hole with a diameter of about 6 mm is drilled at one end of the tube, and a hole with a diameter of 8-10 mm is drilled at the other end. A thin but strong rope with loops will pass through these 2 holes. To one loop, using a latch, fasten the fishing line with a hook.

In order for the live bait to be in the water column (fishing from the shore), a piece of polystyrene should be fixed to the fishing line.

Wooden frame construction

As a rule, pine or aspen is used, which are more resistant to moisture.

1. For the basis of the structure, a reel is formed. For this, recesses are made from the front sides. A wire retainer is screwed onto the reel to hold the line against the reel body.
2. On the front side there are 2 wire clamps with bent ends.
3. The thickness of the springs can be about 5 mm. One end of the spring is straightened 9-10 cm.
4. The spring is attached to the wooden base. One end must be securely fixed.
5. A bright flag is attached to the straightened end. All that remains is to fix the line with the hook and lead, as well as bend the spring and fix it between the fixing parts. Zherlitsa is ready to use.

Ice gnats

Such girders are easy to manufacture, since any unnecessary item that is longer than the diameter of the hole is suitable for this. A plastic tube, about 50 cm long, should be fixed to this object. At the end of the tube, a cut is made so that the line cannot fly off before the bite. In the event of a bite, the line jumps out of the cut, which makes it possible for the rest of the line to unwind freely from the tube. Since the pipe is always in the water, such vents, left, for example, overnight, freeze by morning. To check it, you have to punch a hole nearby. Usually, with this method of fishing, the hole is covered for the night, if, of course, there is something.

Made of duralumin strip and steel wire

A duralumin strip (1x60x300 mm) with ends bent to one side serves as the basis of such a tackle. This will make it easier to set it up on ice. A hole is drilled in the center of the plate for attaching the coil, such as an "ice" or "hole". A hole for a fishing line with a hook is drilled next to the reel.

The spring plays the role of a bite signaling device, and a signaling device made of bright material is attached to its end. A spring is attached at the end of the base and fixed with a regular pin.

In working condition, the spring is pressed with a pin to the base. If there is a bite, the spring is released from the pin and is in an upright position.

Two types of rubber hose and spring from the alarm clock

• To do this, you need 2 pieces of rubber hose, 1.5-2.0 cm in diameter and 10 cm long.A hole is made at one of the ends of the rubber hose for attaching a loop, up to 30 cm in size.On the other side of the segment, a cut is made for fastening the rope.

The same tube is used as a reel, on which 10 meters of cord is wound. One end of it is attached to the holes with a loop, and the other end of the rope is inserted into a slot on the other end of the hose. To the free end of the rope, fixed in the slot, you should tie a load and a leash from a fishing line, up to 0.5 meters long. The monofilament leash connects to the metal leash to which the hook is attached. For ease of use, a reliable stick is inserted from the side of the loop, the length of which more size holes.

A bent piece made of a piece of steel wire, to which a spring is attached, serves as a bite indicator. The same part serves as a stopper.

• The stand is made of wood. A hole is drilled in it, with a diameter of about 3 mm. With the help of a nylon cord, a steel segment is attached to the rack, as well as a curved piece, to which a spring with a signal element is fixed.

Usually, the structure is frozen into ice and all that remains is to set it to its working position by bending the spring and securing it with a stopper. In the event of a bite, the stopper is released and the spring unfolds, signaling the bite.

The original bottleneck and electric bottleneck

The principle of the electric girdle is based on the closure of contacts. Electric tackle assembly technology:

1. To do this, you need to take a piece of a twig. A hook should be formed at one end, and cambric is fixed to the other end, the length of which is slightly longer than the length of the base of the lamp used.
2. The light bulb is fixed to the batiste with the help of threads, and the attachment point is filled with waterproof glue.
3. Wiring is soldered to the upper part of the base, the length of which is 40 mm longer than the gatehouse length.
4. The gateway and the center terminal of the base are connected using a piece of wire.
5. The base is made of wood, better than pine, after which it is impregnated with linseed oil.
6. A spring is installed on the gate.
7. The main and final element is a copper plate fixed to the base with nails. In the working position, the gate should be pressed against this plate.

To make a bottleneck from a bottle, you should take a container from baby powder. A nylon thread with a sinker and a tee will pass through it. A loop is formed at the end of the nylon thread, by means of which the tackle is suspended from the base.

Indicator light design

The main difficulty in making this tackle lies in the design trigger, consisting of a gatehouse, fishing line and two staples.

The brackets are installed in the base. They, in fact, are the fasteners of the gatehouse. They are located at the very edge of the frame. At the end of the gatehouse, a light is installed, to which 2 wires are connected, connected to the terminals by means of a copper plate and the gatehouse. The battery is connected to the terminals. As a result of the bite, a mechanism is triggered, the gatehouse is set in a vertical position, closing the contacts. As a result, the light on the top of the gate comes on.

Beacon design

The beacon design includes:

1 - reel ring; 2 - flag thread; 3 - reel; 4 - retainer; 5 - fishing line; 6 - sinker in the form of an olive; 7 - rubber stopper; 8 - nut; 9 - checkbox; 10 - hook; 11 - pin; 12 - rack; 13 - rack ring.

A wire with a diameter of 3 mm and a length of 70 cm is used as a stand. The role of a reel is played by a tube with a diameter of 3.5 cm and a length of 12 cm.

A fishing line with a diameter of 0.8 mm and a length of about 20 m is wound on a tube (reel).

The stand ring and tube ring are held together with a pin. A ring is placed on the reel (tube) designed to fix the fishing line. The weight in the form of an olive and its stopper are on the line. The nut is pushed onto the tube, and a flag is placed on the nut.

Before installing the tackle, the flag is pressed against the reel, after which it is fixed with a fishing line. In the event of a bite, the line is unwound from the flag, freeing it. As a result, the checkbox takes a vertical position.

Technique for catching pike on girders in winter

As a rule, pike is caught in water bodies with stagnant water or in bays where there is no current. This guarantees the safety of fishing even in mild frosts. On a river where there is a current, the danger of falling on thin ice is quite high.

How to catch pike on lakes and ponds

In order for fishing to be effective, several points should be taken into account:

• Correct installation... This activity is best done during daylight hours. The trap must be installed correctly, otherwise it will fail at the most unexpected moment.
• Choosing a promising place... To find a predator's camp, you need to cut through several holes and install vents on them. On familiar reservoirs, this process is somewhat simplified, since the bottom relief is known to fishermen. Gully zones, large differences in depths, as well as places with various underwater heaps may be suitable places. Pike can also be found in areas where there are thickets of reeds or reeds.
• Correct rigging of the vents... Everything matters here, from the choice of fishing line to the choice of live bait. Much depends on the type of fish that is found in the reservoir.
• Knowledge of the behavior of fish in winter. Such knowledge will help you to correctly identify a promising place.

Conclusion

Fishing for a predator such as pike on a gut has a number of advantages over other fishing methods. Most importantly, you do not need to stand over the tackle, run from one hole to another, waiting for a bite. But this does not mean at all that the prey will be easy to get. This is a serious misconception. First, you will have to drill more than one hole, and maybe 10 or more. Secondly, for each hole you need to install a gutter, and this is also painstaking work. Thirdly, in case of bites, you will have to run from one tackle to another, and they are at a distance of about 10 meters, or even more. And fourthly, the tackle needs to be checked regularly, and this is the same expenditure of time and effort. And if you consider that in winter the angler is dressed in warm clothes that restrain movement and increase total weight, then you can imagine how much effort and energy will be expended in one day of fishing.

The design of these girders for summer fishing is surprisingly simple, simpler than a live bait rod. They are quickly made and can be made, in principle, in large quantities, since the process of fishing with them still implies some loss of some of them.

You can just forget where you put it or else what might happen. The cost price of materials for such summer pike girders is low and there are no difficulties in their manufacture. And judging by the descriptions and the author's photo, catching with such girders is entertaining and effective. Moreover, the author shares his experience after summer fishing throughout the season, about what needs to be taken into account in the manufacture and use when placing these girders on the banks of the rivers, where he successfully catches pike.

So, we are getting acquainted with the idea of ​​making and the process of fishing for pikes on summer homemade girders.

Making and catching pikes on summer homemade girders

Circumstances in connection with the winter frost (for pike in "my" parts) not in the best way, forced to take up the development of new places and methods of fishing.

A portable portable motor "designed" on the eve of the summer "navigation" made it possible to climb into such "jungle", where there is no way without a motor, and with an "adult" outboard motor, too ...

A small overgrown river, winding through the forest and full of fish ... Spinning did not bring luck, the current and driftwood. In the end, after a thorough reconnaissance, I decided to try to fish with girders. In more or less suitable places, they can be quickly installed literally "on the fly", rafting downstream ...

The manufacturing process is simple and fast, 20 pcs. an hour can be done without much straining. As a base, plastic sewage pipe(trimming).

You float downstream and "rip apart" to the right and left, tying it to hanging bushes, tree branches, etc. (holding on to these very branches with your teeth).

Having rybachiv, so to speak, the season, I gained some experience with my "pipes". To begin with, a few words about the rig, it is advisable to wind the fishing line from 10 to 15 meters, the sinker is only sliding. Fishing line from 0.5 mm, this does not cut so well when playing the hand and it is easier to "rip" out of the algae if the "pike is entangled".

It is better to place the vents covertly, among the foliage along the branches hanging over the water and other "elements of the landscape". In promising places that do not have convenient "hangers", you can create them yourself. A sharpened rod with a “slingshot” at the end is stuck into the "bush" of sedges, reeds, into thickets of reeds or simply into weeds under the shore.

To prevent the fish from being pulled out, it is additionally tied with a cord to the vegetation collected in a bunch, etc. It is not necessary to place it above the water, if the depth permits, it is better that it is slightly submerged.

Then such a rod can simply be lifted out of the water and by throwing a stranglehold on the "flyer" to quickly hang the girder. On a small river caught (for example) by me, in many interesting places, having worked once, I fixed such twigs.

They then served, from fishing to fishing, all summer, assisting in the capture of more than a dozen pikes.

From the pipe, the gutters are light, they unfold with the flow, you can very quickly wind the fishing line back on the 50-ku pipe, balancing in the boat. An elastic band is necessary, otherwise it will be difficult to clamp the fishing line in the slot so that it is not tight and not weak ...

It is easier to pick up this effort with a thick elastic band. Live bait on the stream, and generally cling, only by sticking the leash under the gills in my mouth. Pulling a little out of my mouth, I insert the double and slide it into my mouth.

The commercially available twins should preferably be modified by unbending in a certain way. You need to buy several sizes of doubles, usually three sizes, so that right on the fishing trip, if the doubles on the zherlitsa are clearly too small or too big for the existing live bait, choose the right ones. It happens that the best or suitable live baits have already run out, so you have to pick up hooks for the remaining live bait trifles.

I use the cheapest Chinese leashes. Little green ones ... The pike doesn't care. After catching a few or when they become "skinless" and an unbendable spiral, I simply throw away the leashes and put new ones on. The price is a penny ...

The main thing in my zherlitsa is, and it is very important, that immediately after the jerk, 10-15 meters of fishing line is freely dropped, as if from a "non-inertia". Therefore, only a sliding weight is needed, falling to the bottom and not interfering with the process in order to ensure a minimum of resistance on the line.

The pike calmly swallows the live bait, and then it is too late to spit it out, if the double on a leash wound under the gills in the mouth of the live bait, it usually immediately gets firmly stuck in the throat or in the gills of the pike.

Therefore, doubles must be carefully checked for sharpness before each fishing trip and, if necessary, immediately sharpened with a diamond file. The tackle, thus, becomes akin to unauthorized. The efficiency of the realized bites is about 95%.

If the live bait is crucian, then I did not seem to notice that when fastened under the gill cover, they got very sick. Perhaps, because I fish on the current, they don't need to work hard with their gills, I opened my mouth and that's it. Usually at the end of fishing I take off and back into the bucket, at home I now have my own pond, and in it a cage with live bait.

I let them go there until the next fishing trip, some, probably, will roll like this a couple of times with me until the pike gets on the tooth. The main thing is not to damage the gills with a leash. But if the live bait is roach and the like, then with this method they will die faster than with a hook passed under the dorsal fin.

Next summer, perhaps, I will do catfish in the pits. Pits up to 12 meters. I will hook my pipes to the float, at the bottom of the pyramid a load of 50 grams, with a swivel at the top. In the loop of the swivel line on a sliding principle and from the load to the live bait, a meter of his freedom. Fishing line 30-40 meters. I'll place it at the entrance-exit and into the pit itself, maybe I'll catch it, there seems to be a pike there too.

Text prepared by Alexey Brevnov (Samodelki FISH)