There was an idea to collect onions from available tools. With a small pulling force, the first training toy, but still not a child's toy, with normal arrows, for an inexperienced person, can be dangerous. The bow turned out within the framework of sports equipment, I will not hunt with it, except for cardboard boxes with circles.
I'll show you what happened in the end, and how many kilograms of string tension. In general, I will write a little about what happened and how it was used.
The material for the shoulders was fiberglass reinforcement and epoxy. I bought fittings in a utility store (I took it seems 6 mm, I don’t remember exactly what I did a year and a half ago). The thicker the reinforcement, in theory, the bow will be stronger, that is, the tension of the bowstring is higher.
The armature is stored in a coil or roll, roll, reel, so it is not entirely flat, but slightly bends. cut the twigs as in the photo, 4 long, 2 a little shorter. the long ones were about 80 cm. Then he folded them on a flat surface, pressing them with washers, bars, particles of a young star, so that they lay evenly and motionless.
I smeared a little epoxy around the edge to hold and wrapped them with nylon thread ...
Then he began to fill these blanks with epoxy with the addition of some kind of nail paint and sparkles stolen from his wife.
You can use any, you can not do it at all. in general, little by little he began to fill in and achieve such a result.
Having filled all this, I realized that in an amicable way it was necessary to do this either on a board with a separator, or wrap the board with a film or a bag, generally polyethylene, the resin reluctantly sticks to it. Filled in and the process of sanding began, began to level, re-fill, level again. By the way, sanding glass reinforcement indoors without a respirator or at least a gauze mask, do not best idea, small particles of glass dust fly and are perfectly inhaled with air. Having finished with the shoulders, we make cuts in them at the edges for the bowstring.
Why is the central stick shorter ?! In order for the edges of the shoulder to be thinner, as in the photo, and, accordingly, bend, when pulling the bowstring, not the entire shoulder, but first the edge. I finished doing the shoulders, but I missed one thing. The eyelet for the bowstring looked like this.
And after some manipulations it became so.
I, having already collected the bow completely and having shot a little, rubbed the bowstring in the ear. Didn't finish the edges. Then I shortened the shoulders a little, cutting off a little from the top and bottom. They became shorter by 10 centimeters. A polyester belt, or nylon, not particularly important, was wound onto the new, not sawn-off ends of the shoulder; And on top of the resulting ball I poured epoxy, in short, epoxy was everywhere. After hardening, I gave it such a shape, as it turned out at the end. And now I have already processed the edges so that there are no sharp edges. Only now the photo is not left from those processes.
Then we move on to the handle. I took a 50 mm timber in the utility store a long time ago. The seller assured that it was white ash. I don't know whether it's true or not, but the tree is strong, it is difficult to cut with a jigsaw with a large file. I drew a sketch by hand on graph paper (there was no photo left either) and then transferred it to the timber and cut it out.
From the ends I marked the approximate thickness and also everything with a jigsaw, cutting off all unnecessary.
In some places, the jigsaw file was crookedly "walking". Well, it doesn't matter, then we'll fix everything. Then the belt sander went into action .... yeah, it is not, so we buy in the same store, large sandpaper, as much as possible, and files. And we begin to grind the Pinocchio handle. Naturally, I also did not take a photo of this - I was in sawdust and dust.
When time passes, if you don’t do as I wanted to do (pour gasoline over this shapeless piece of wood, which you can handle, and burn it with ominous laughter). If we have chiselled it, then we try it on.
Yeah, with the help of blue electrical tape and nylon thread, we make a semblance of an onion and rejoice like a small one. Next, we align the centerline of the temporary bowstring with the center of the handle and specifically the shelf for the arrow. We fix the shoulders and drill two holes each with a wood drill or I drilled for metal (epoxy shoulders are drilled with a bang). holes by 6 and, accordingly, insert the bolts and washers by 6. and fix the whole thing.
And then ATTENTION. If you have a drilling machine, then this is great. I drilled with an ordinary drill. And then the truth is "Measure seven times - cut one." It is worth moving the axis a little and the bow will shoot in the wrong direction. Not much, but still. I had a drill, a stool and an assistant, and it seems to work, which means you will succeed. We take long bolts, put a washer on the bolt, insert with back side we pass the handles over the shoulder, from above the same wide washer, engraver and nut, or like my lambs. And we pull together.
Well, everything seems to be ok. Then I smeared the entire handle with epoxy with a thin layer instead of varnish.
Do not judge strictly. There is not much information on the Internet about this, I show how I did it. I am not saying that this is correct - I did it for the first time and could make mistakes. I'm just showing what happened.
Almost everyone can make a bow from glass reinforcement with their own hands, since this does not require special machines and devices. The result will be the simplest bow, which of course cannot be compared with a professional one. classic bow, but for entertaining shooting at certain distances it will do quite well.
DIY materials for onions from rebar
To make a bow from glass reinforcement with your own hands, you will need:
- Heat-shrinkable tubes 2 pieces with a diameter of about 30 mm and 1 piece with a diameter of 50-60 mm;
- Wide sanitary tape
- Narrow stationery tape;
- Insulating tape;
- Fiberglass reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm.
- Plastic box for cable (cable duct) 120 cm long.
- Metal 2mm cable with silicone sheath.
Heat-shrinkable tubing can be purchased at a specialized store, and all other components will be absolutely easy to find.
Stages of making a bow from glass reinforcement with your own hands
Prepare 3 pieces of reinforcement 120 cm each
Tape them together and wrap them tightly with plumbing tape.
Put on top and wind the cover from the cable duct.
If you want to make a more powerful bow from fiberglass reinforcement, attach a strip of rubber from the car tube along the entire length in the same way.
Along the edges where the bowstring will be attached, it is necessary to wind electrical tape, as in the photo below.
In the place of the handle of the bow, you can tape a piece of rubber with electrical tape
Next, we put on heat-shrinkable tubes on the ends of the onion, and in the middle, where the handle will be, a tube of a larger diameter. Using a hair dryer or a gas burner, heat the tube starting from the edges of the bow - this way it will tighten and fit the bow tightly.
In the place where the bowstring is attached, we increase the groove by cutting out the heat-shrinkable tube from the formed groove.
How to make a bowstring on a bow from rebar
For the string we will use a 2mm rope. It is attached to the hollows on the shoulders of the bow. First, we fix the cable on one side, then, pulling the bow with an arc, we fasten the cable on the opposite edge.
Crossbow from fiberglass reinforcement, how to make shoulders for crossbow from fiberglass reinforcement?
To make a recursive crossbow from a homemade armature you will need:
- A piece of wooden block of small diameter, 40 cm long;
- One or two pieces of reinforcement;
- Trigger mechanism
- Bowstring for a crossbow.
Stages of making a crossbow from plastic reinforcement
- Drill a through hole in a wooden block and insert glass reinforcement there - so we get the shoulders of the crossbow.
- For reinforced shoulders, you will need two identical pieces of reinforcement and, accordingly, two parallel holes in the bar.
- Attach a bowstring to the edges of the reinforcement and mark on the bar the place of maximum bowstring tension - here you need to attach the trigger.
Homemade glass reinforcement crossbow is ready!
Hello. Today I decided to tell you about how to make a bow toy for entertaining shooting in the country, a picnic, etc.
At the very beginning of this article, I want to draw your attention to one very common mistake of "home gunsmiths". Namely: by making "weapons" the majority try to make it the most powerful ...
WHY???!!!
Answer yourself to this question! Will you go hunting with him? I think no! After all, for this you need to get permission, and homemade products are illegal ... (And in any case, for hunting it is better - a firearm ... Because the energy of the shot cannot be compared, the ease of use is also ...). Admit it to yourself - you just want to shoot at targets! Truth? And if so, power is not important to you. Indeed, in order to confidently shoot from a bow, you need to have the appropriate physical fitness!!! Yes, that's why in the old days the archer trained all his life, starting from childhood: by training, he developed certain muscle groups! I also underestimated this factor at first. The first bow was made with an effort of 20 kgf. After all, this is not a weapon, even according to the law. He is considered weak ... And what in the end? ... I, as a person, quite physically developed, could shoot him ... a maximum of ten times! ... Then - a break for rest ... And women, to for example, we could not never !!! (Yes, yes, that's right. After all, even "miserable" for a bow 20 kgf is the effort with which you hold two full buckets of water in your hand !!! All your friends will be able to do this for enough time to aim? And at the same time - without trembling in a tense hand !!!
Agree, no !!!
The second point to focus on is the targeted firing range! Precisely AIMING. Those who have not fired a bow often imagine that if you look along the arrow, then you will get there! But in fact, this is not at all the case: there is practically no direct flight of an arrow - after all, even a bullet flies along a parabola. And the arrow is much, several times heavier than a bullet, and the energy of the bullet is orders of magnitude higher! At the same time, the plumage, passing near the bow handle, deflects the flight of the arrow to the side! So archery is "intuitive", based on the experience of hundreds and thousands of shots!
Therefore, if you are not a trained sportsman-archer, you will be able to shoot 20-30 meters maximum, if you want to hit the target meter by meter ...
Let's summarize:
If you want to make a bow from which it will be INTERESTING to shoot friends' campaigns at a picnic in the forest, or in the country - you will have enough effort of 10-15 kgf! Such a bow is capable of throwing a light wooden arrow up to a hundred meters when fired at a 45 degree angle. When aimed shooting, it will provide INTERESTING shooting for amateurs at a distance of up to 30 meters! (At a greater distance, your arrows will still be "disposable" - you will not find them!))) And, at the same time, a light arrow is not so traumatic!
I've been thinking about making such a bow for a long time. We often go "into nature" with a group of friends. At the same time, he set himself several conditions:
1. The bow should be easy to disassemble for ease of transportation
2. It must be strong enough and not afraid of weather conditions.
3. He must not have great strength tension, but, at the same time, should provide an arrow flight range of at least 30 meters.
So, after browsing a lot of Internet pages and touching a lot of materials with my hands, I opted for the so-called composite reinforcement. Now it is widely used instead of steel in construction, because it has great strength and, what is most important for us, flexibility and resilience.
We will need:
1. Composite reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm. and a total length of 2m. 40 cm.
2. A piece of a profile pipe with a section of 20 by 25 mm, a length of 20 cm.
3. A piece of 40mm plywood. (It's hard to find such a thing, so I glued together two pieces of "Finnish foner, 20 mm thick with PVA glue in a vice.)
4. Steel cable, 1 mm in diameter (for making a bowstring)
5. Clamps for a cable.
6.2 furniture bolts.
7. Synthetic thick thread.
8. Heat shrink tubing (optional)
So, let's get started ... First, I started making the shoulders. For each shoulder, I used two pieces of reinforcement, 50 cm long, and one 70 cm long.Fold them together (long in the middle), I wrapped them tightly, loop to loop with synthetic thread
This must be done along the entire length, because, when the shoulder is bent, the reinforcing bars must be tightly connected into a single whole.
After that, I soaked the resulting shoulders with epoxy. (I did not photograph this "sticky" process due to dirty hands.))))
After that, I prepared a heat shrink tubing.
He dressed her and upset her with a hair dryer. This operation is optional - I pursued purely decorative purposes. It may even reduce the elasticity of the shoulders.
I cut the profile pipe with a "grinder" lengthwise. Having measured the middle along the length and made the cuts, I folded two boxes, placing them inside the beginning of my shoulders. Then, having drilled through the holes, he compressed these boxes with M6 bolts.
Here's what happened after wrapping the structure with electrical tape (for decorative purposes. It was rusty):
So, I have two shoulders:
Looking ahead, I will describe how I made the bowstring fastening ... There were different ideas, but in order to temporarily test it, I, stepping back from the edge of my shoulders by one and a half cm, wound a "tubercle" of thin knitting wire, wrapped it all with electrical tape ... yes it remains!)))) The loop of the bowstring does not pass through it, and that's enough ...
We start making the handle. It can be crafted from wood. But, since it will experience colossal loads, do not even think about conifers. An oak or a birch butt will do ... It is difficult to get such wood in an urban environment, so I decided to make a handle out of plywood ... Since the thickness will be at least three centimeters (or better 4), I glued two pieces with PVA glue. " Finnish "plywood, 20 mm thick. You can easily find the shape of the handle on the Internet and choose according to your taste - with the right or left arrangement of the boom shelf. After processing the workpiece with a grinder (first with a "toothy" circle on the tree, then with an emery-petal), and painting, I got this handle:
Having drilled one through hole, and one blind hole, I connected the handle to the shoulders with ordinary furniture bolts:
The nut of the bolt, which crimps the metal limit switches on the shoulders, enters the blind hole and fixes the shoulder in alignment with the handle. And all this is pulled together with a furniture bolt. At first, I planned to use a wing nut for ease of disassembly and assembly, but in practice, the "hand" effort was not enough for a reliable fastening - the shoulders dangled. Therefore, I replaced the nuts with ordinary ones and added a cheap Chinese ratchet with a 10 mm head to the bow.
The next step is the bowstring. Without further ado, I made it from a steel cable with a diameter of 1 mm. On the cable, so as not to cut my hands, I put a thin heat-shrinkable tube of red color. I fastened the loops at the ends with crimps sold where I bought the cable.
So, I got such a handsome man!
The force measured with a conventional scale showed that when fully stretched to the length of the boom, it was 12 kgf. That is, according to the law, this is not a weapon, but "a product that is structurally similar", that is, a toy!
It remains to ask your daughter to sew a cover on the sewing machine, and the bow is ready! It is very convenient to take it with you to picnics. Everyone is capable of shooting from it.
Camping with friends can be diversified not only with gatherings, rich fish soup and playing the guitar, but also with exciting shooting from a cold throwing weapons, or pneumatics. If you don’t have, or don’t have enough funds to buy, or, it doesn’t matter, you can do everything yourself. In today's article, we will look at how it is possible with shoulders made of elastic composite reinforcement. Like composite bow quite simple to make, but at the same time, it has good power for game target shooting. The author of this design, in his explanations, claims that when measuring the tension of the bowstring, he got a result of 12 kgf. This is very good for a bow intended for shooting at targets on vacation.
We do not need one that can overwhelm the hog. Firstly, the guardians of the law will give you a hat for this, and secondly, we didn’t come to hunt, but simply to relax in nature, having fun with archery along the way. Well, thirdly, you are tired of shooting from powerful bow, due to normal muscle fatigue. Make a dozen shots, and spit on this "hard" occupation, deciding that a fishing rod is still preferable for you than archery. Well, from the lighter version of the bow, target shooting will be just a sheer pleasure. From such a self-made collapsible bow, you can easily conduct aimed shooting at targets at a distance of up to thirty meters. Well, we don't need more.
The technology of making a bow with shoulders from composite materials
So, to make a bow, we need to purchase several pieces of composite plastic reinforcement with diameters of eight millimeters. First, let's make the shoulders of the bow. For one shoulder, you need to saw off three pieces of reinforcement. Two pieces are fifty centimeters long and one is seventy centimeters long. We connect these segments of composite reinforcement together by wrapping them tightly with synthetic thread, moreover, a long segment should be in the middle.
After you wrap the entire length of the rebar with thread, saturate the winding with epoxy glue and put heat shrink tubing on top. Shrink the tube with a construction hairdryer. You now have a solid bow shoulder made from three pieces of resilient plastic.
Now you need to place these shoulders in a metal block, with which we will attach them to the bow handle. A metal block can be made from a piece of a profile pipe, the size of which is 20 by 25 mm and a length of 20 cm. We cut the pipe lengthwise into two halves with a "grinder". In the middle we make cuts and fold the box.
We drill two holes in the block and, inserting the end of the shoulder into it, tighten it with a bolt and nut. We wrap it with electrical tape to give the profile block a more aesthetic look. At the end of the shoulder, you need to make a slight thickening to attach the bowstring. We wind a layer of wire, stepping back one and a half centimeters from the edge of the shoulder. We wrap the end of the shoulder with electrical tape. This will create a protrusion that will prevent the bowstring from sliding off the shoulder when drawing the bow.
After both shoulders are ready, you can start making the bow handle. It, the author of this design of the bow, was made of thick plywood. You need to glue together two tiles of plywood twenty centimeters thick. Then draw a handle template and cut it out with a jigsaw. You can process the handle at your discretion, the main thing is not to forget to cut out the shelf for the arrow. After finishing and grinding, the handle can be painted.
Next, two holes must be drilled at the ends of the handle. One hole should be through, the other blind. Everything, you can collect onions. We fasten the shoulders to the handle using furniture bolts. A blind hole in the handle is for the end of the bolt with which we pulled off the shoulder attachment block.
A thin heat-shrink tubing can be placed in the middle of the string to prevent finger injury when shooting a bow.In general, this is where our work on making a bow with shoulders from composite reinforcement is completed. It remains to make arrows.
How to quickly make an arrow for a bow
For game shooting, they are made even easier. An ordinary window glazing bead is taken and inserted into an electric drill at one end. In a vice, we fix a turning die of the required diameter. We turn on the drill and drive the glazing bead through the die. We should have a perfectly straight shaft for the arrow. We sharpen the end of the shaft and dip it in epoxy glue or furniture varnish. Such a tip, after drying, can easily pierce plastic bottle or stick into a tree. Remained using regular tape. Glue the two pieces of tape together by placing the end of the arrow in the middle. Cut out the required plumage configuration with scissors. At the end of the arrow we make a small slot for the bowstring. That's it, you can carry out the first tests on shooting from our homemade bow.