Milk water in the pool. Cloudy Pool Water How To Clean With Chemoform Chemistry

18.05.2015

The pool in a private house is a paradise for relaxation and entertainment, the ability to easily maintain an excellent physical fitness, turn ordinary barbecue gatherings into exciting sport competitions between children and adults. Wide range of modern additional equipment(fountains, massage geysers, counterflow device) opens up space for imagination, allows you to come up with the most interesting single and team competition... And a half-hour morning swim is comparable to intense training in an expensive and prestigious fitness center.

But one day, coming to the pool for a morning exercise or getting ready for the arrival of friends, the owner notices that the crystal clear water has become cloudy. What is the reason? How to return the pool to its original appearance?

For a better understanding of what happened, I propose to consider what processes occur in the pool during its operation. One of the main sources of water pollution, oddly enough, is the bathers themselves. It is from their bodies that various substances are washed off in the form of lotions, tanning and skin care products, organic impurities, fat and skin microparticles. Not all contaminants are captured by the filtration system, very small particles remain in the water and are an excellent breeding ground for bacteria and protozoa.
- "But I use all the chemical reagents specified in the instructions and, moreover, the flocculant, I strictly adhere to the norms and proportions!" - the unfortunate owner of a suddenly cloudy reservoir will be outraged.

Unfortunately, this is not always enough. are often rigidly tied to its chemical composition and have a positive effect only if several basic parameters are observed. Throw at least one out of the circuit - and shock chlorination instead of cleaning will only aggravate the situation.

So let's take a look at the main causes of sudden cloudiness and odor in the pool water:

If the filtering system is not efficient enough, a sediment from the oxidation products of algae and algicide remains in the water, which settles on the bottom or is suspended in the water. When carrying out shock chlorination, the disinfectant enters into a chemical reaction with the suspension and colors the water in a whitish, color of highly diluted milk, shade. The solution to the problem is simple. Flush the pool filtering system, drain the water halfway, equalize the acid balance to 7.2 units and switch the system to non-stop filtration. After the water has cleared, rinse the filter and draw in water to the calculated volume.

Cloudy water and low acidity of water

Another reason for cloudiness is too low a pH level, or, as experts sometimes say, "soft water". It would seem that the absence of mineral impurities and low acidity - perfect formula clean pool. Such water does not irritate the skin and mucous membranes of the human body, the absence of dissolved mineral salts guarantees the absence of sediment and mineral deposits on the walls and bottom of the artificial reservoir. However, things are not so simple. Soft water is an ideal breeding ground for bacteria and protozoa that feed on particles of human skin, fat and other organic matter. The division rate is so high that even the clarification of pool water using shock chlorination does not bring the expected results. Free chlorine ions, oxidizing and decomposing organic matter, are converted into a new compound - chloramine, which is in suspension, settles on the walls and falls to the bottom in the form of a sediment. The way to deal with such a nuisance is to completely remove the contaminated water, thoroughly clean the pool and filter system. The next time you fill the artificial reservoir, you must carefully adjust the pH level, bringing the acidity value in the range from 7.2 to 7.6 units.

Excessive water hardness as a cause of precipitation

Water rich in dissolved mineral salts and inorganic impurities can itself cause cloudiness. Even a strictly dosed coagulant for the pool, applied at absolutely precisely calculated intervals, reacts with minerals dissolved in the water, forms the finest suspension and promotes precipitation. In this case, it is quite simple to carry out water clarification. Bring the pH level to neutral, add an anti-limescale agent and turn on the filtration system for at least 48 hours. After the cleaning procedure, it is necessary to mandatory Thoroughly rinse the filter with a reverse flow of water, as the suspended solids and mineral deposits in it significantly reduce the efficiency of the entire system.

Clouding of water due to overdose and violation of the schedule for the use of disinfectants

Today, the vast majority of drugs for chlorination of water in swimming pools contain substances - stabilizers, which significantly increase the effectiveness and duration of the disinfectant. Most stabilizers are based on cyanic acid, a chemical that is absolutely water-soluble in acceptable proportions. However, when a certain concentration is exceeded, most often due to the abuse of shock chlorination of an artificial reservoir, the stabilizing additives turn into a solid state of aggregation and cloud the water in the form of a tiny suspension. The method of struggle is the addition of flocculants and long-term, until complete clarification, filtration of the water and adherence to the pool disinfection schedule.

Very important! For the proper functioning of your pool, it is not enough to use the recommended chemicals and observe the frequency of their use. The basis of the fundamentals is a serviceable filtration system, because it is effective work will avoid most of the situations described in the article. Keep an eye on the filter, rinse it in time and enjoy crystal clear clean water Your personal pond!

18.8 The main problems with water and how to solve them.

PROBLEM	POSSIBLE REASON	METHOD OF ELIMINATION
COLOR OF WATER
*Greenish water*	PH too high	Reduce pH to 6.8 - 7 ("pH - Minus").
	Lack of reagents in water	Make shock chlorination up to 10g / m3 ("Chlorine 50").
	Insufficient filtration time	Filter constantly until transparent, rinse the filter 2 times a day.
	The heat-saving coating is constantly on the water	Maximum ventilation, air supply (open cover).
	Thunderstorms create favorable conditions for the appearance and growth of algae	It is necessary to check the pH and chlorine level readings with a tester. If necessary, add the following agents to the pool: ("pH - Minus" or "pH - Plus", "Chlorine 50", "Chlorine 55", "Chlorine 85", "Chlorine 90" and algicide: "Blausan", "Blausan K" ...
*Very green water*	Long absence of the owner	Complete replacement of water, or it is necessary to lower the pH level, do shock chlorination to 10 mg / l ("Chlorine 50"), and apply a shock dose of "Blausan" or "Blausan K".
*Very green water*	Unsuccessful "wintering"
*The water is clear with a greenish tint. Brown spots on the bottom and sides of the pool.*	Presence in water Fe (yellow-green color of water) or Cu (turquoise color)	Adjust the pH value; remove ions of iron, calcium, and other metals from the pool water using shock chlorination ("Chlorine 50") or use "Metal - Ex" Brown stains can be removed with a specialized pool cleaner "Radclar - powder" (after emptying the pool).
*The water is cloudy, green in color.* *Mucous deposits on* *the walls of the pool.*	Algae growth	Adjust the pH value (add "pH - Plus" or "pH - Minus" and add a loading dose of algicide ("Blausan", "Blausan K").
*Green, muddy water, floor and walls covered with mucus, algae* whether	1. Growth of algae (especially during thunderstorms); 2. Too little concentration of algicide in water;	1. Mechanically, using a brush and a vortex jet, remove algae from the floor and walls and, if possible, completely remove them from the pool; 2. Backwash or clean the filter; 3. Conduct impact chlorination using the table. Chlorine 50 and add a loading dose of Blausan or Blausan K; 4. Leave the circulation pump running for at least 24 hours; 5. In the case of a sand filter: for better removal of water turbidity, add "Flock liquid" or "Flock in cartridges"; 6. For prevention purposes: at the same time add to the water a double dose of the agent to prevent the appearance of algae ("Blausan", "Blausan K"); 7. Regularly use coagulating agents ("Flock liquid" or "Flock in cartridges");
*Green, clear water or brown water*	The presence of iron in the water	Set the pH level at a value in the range of 7.0-7.4 and do shock chlorination with "Chlorine 50";
*Cloudy water*	Most often: incorrect pH setting and poor water filtration, increased water temperature.	Recheck and bring the pH and CL values to normal, make the filtration itself in the filter unit more thorough with the help of "Flock" coagulants in liquid or solid form, lower the temperature for a while.
*Large turbidity of water*		Pour the Fast liquid coagulant "Flock liquid" directly into the water to be clarified. The drug dissolves in water, and this solution, when filtration is stopped, is poured from a watering can around the entire perimeter of the pool. Leave to act for at least one night and then vacuum the dirt that has settled on the bottom of the pool and direct it to the drain.
*Cloudy / milky water*	1. Dissolved salts form tiny crystals as a result of high pH or high total alkalinity, or both, giving the water a milky color.	Correct the pH. To lower the pH, add pH-minus in the proportion indicated on the label until you get correct value... To raise the pH, use a pH-plus preparation. To speed up the lightening add "Flock";
	2. Too many organic pollutants;	Carry out shock chlorination using tab. "Chlorine 50";
	3. Too little concentration of disinfectant in the water;	Add "Flock" in liquid or solid form;
	4. Violation of the filter;	If possible, clean the filter.
	5. The presence of suspensions, colloidal particles (contaminants) of organic origin	Adjust the pH value; add coagulant ("Flock liquid" or "Flock in cartridges") according to the instructions for the case of high turbidity.
	6. Presence of insoluble hardness salts or coagulant not retained by the filter	Adjust the pH value; lower water hardness.
*Milk water*	This is possible at elevated pH levels and is caused by elevated pool temperatures.	The pipe material consists mainly of calcium carbonate, which appears as white deposits. The pH level, lime / carbonic acid ratio should be checked immediately. If there is no visible increase in hard carbonate, then maintaining a pH of 7.4-7.6 will suffice.
*Cloudy / green water.*	Chlorine levels have dropped or chlorination has become ineffective, allowing algae to thrive in the water.	Superchlorinate with rapid chlorine or use an algicide (Blausan or Blausan K). Superchlorination usually produces the most quick results... If the water is only slightly green, superchlorinate to bring the free chlorine level to 10 mg / L. For more serious problems, when the water is dark green and the bottom cannot be seen, it is necessary to superchlorinate to a level of 25 mg / l. This will destroy the algae. Remove any algae that may remain on the pool surfaces. Look for algae on the back of stairs and around underwater lights. Rinse the filter after 24 hours to remove dead algae from the filter. Any remaining cloudiness in the water should be removed with the Floka Water Clarifier. Now keep the chlorine level at around 3 mg / L to prevent algae from forming. If the pool is particularly susceptible to algae, regularly use an algicide (Blausan, Blausan K) or chlorine with an addition of algicide, as well as, as an option, "Multifunctional tablets" Multitab "20 and 200 grams".
*Cloudy / black*	Pool water contains manganese	Adjust the pH value; remove ions of iron, copper, silver, calcium, and other metals from the pool water (add "Metal - Ex") and do shock chlorination ("Chlorine 50"). Brown stains can be removed with a specialized pool cleaner "Radclar Powder" (after emptying the pool).
*Rusty red water*	Probable Cause: Steel or ferrous metal fittings in the circulation system, such as pipes, are susceptible to corrosion due to low pH. A shock dose of chlorination oxidizes the iron particles, creating rust. This often happens after the pool is reopened.	It is necessary to act very quickly in order to prevent subsequent damage such as staining the surfaces of the pool liners. You need to either replace all the water in the pool at once or add fresh water gradually. Remove all rust stains from the pool surface with a good tile or film cleaner. Replace ferrous metal fittings with PVC or copper. Make sure the fresh water is properly balanced, that is, the pH and total alkalinity are within the recommended ranges.

PROBLEMS OF BALANCE OF WATER PARAMETERS
*There is a tendency for the pH level to remain low (below 7.2).*	This is usually due to both the low pH of tap water (especially where the water is soft) and the use of acidic chlorine, such as trichloride.	Correct the pH. To raise the pH level, add pH + in the correct proportion until the desired value is obtained. A high pH chlorinating agent should be used to achieve a natural balance between the low pH of the water and the high pH of the chlorination source. Dichlor - approximately pH neutral ("Chlorine 55"); calcium hypochlorite and sodium hypochlorite ("Chlorine - liquid") are high pH chlorination sources.
*There is a tendency for the pH level to be constantly high*	This occurs both due to (1) the high pH of tap water (especially where the water is hard) and (2) when using alkaline chlorination sources such as calcium hypochlorite or sodium hypochlorite, or (3) because of sparingly soluble salts leached into new concrete pools.	One thing for all three is to adjust the pH. For case (1) and (2), a low pH chlorinating agent must be selected to help achieve a natural balance between the high pH of the water and the low pH of the chlorination source. Trichloride ("Chlorine - 50", "Chlorine - 85", "Chlorine - 90") is the optimal chlorination source to choose.
*The pH values are erroneous and fluctuating.*	The total alkalinity is too low to maintain the pH.
*pH is fixed.*	Water, due to its high alkalinity, keeps the pH at the same level. This is a common problem in hard water pools where the tap water has a high total alkalinity.	It is necessary to dilute the pool water with water with a low hardness level (after the softener).
*The alkalinity is too low.*	Local tap water has low bicarbonate levels, so whenever the pool is filled from the mains, the bicarbonate will dissolve in the pool. This is a specific problem in soft water pools.	To increase the total alkalinity by 20 mg / liter, add sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) at the rate of 1.5 kg per 50 cubic meters of pool water or 3 kg of pH +.
*Chlorine has been added to the water, but there is no reading on the test kit.*	The chlorine level in the pool is so high that it bleaches the dye in the test tablet. To confirm the diagnosis, try detecting chlorine odor above the surface of the water or repeat the DPD-1 test with only a drop of pool water in the test tube and try to see the red color before bleaching.	Determine the approx. chlorination level, by dissolving a pool water sample with equal amount of natural or distilled water, multiply the answer by 2. If there is still no reading, repeat the dilution process and multiply the answer by 4 ... and so on. If the actual chlorination is not too high (about 10 mg / L), stop chlorination and let the chlorine evaporate for a while. If the chlorination is significantly higher, or if you must use the pool in the near future, add active oxygen to the water to reduce free chlorine.
*The chlorination level is difficult to control.*	In outdoor pools, hypochlorite (free chlorine) is decomposed by ultraviolet radiation from the sun.	For pools using liquid chlorination (sodium hypochlorite) or calcium hypochlorite, add stabilizer (cyanuric acid) at a rate of 3 kg per 100 m3. It must be added directly to the pool, DO NOT pre-mix with other chlorine. Alternatively, switch to continuous chlorination with dichlor granules ("Chlorine 55") or trichlor tablets ("Chlorine - 50", "Chlorine - 85", "Chlorine - 90").

PROBLEMS WITH POOL SURFACES
*The pool surfaces are rough and covered with deposits.*	The balance between pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness is wrong and water itself forms deposits.	Test for pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness and adjust to the recommended parameters.
	Deposits of hardness salts - calcium (Ca) and magnesium (Mg), (lime deposits)	Drain the pool; remove deposits, the pH value must be maintained in the range of 7.2 - 7.4.
		Treat the walls of the pool with a cleaner ("Radclar - powder") according to the instructions for its use.
*Pool walls rough, cloudy or "milky" water*	Limescale build-up due to too high pH or temperature.	1. First, mechanically remove limescale from the floor and walls with a brush, then remove limescale from the bottom of the pool with a dredger. If the limescale cannot be removed mechanically: drain the water, clean the pool with "Radclar powder". 2. Add pH-Minus and Metal-Ex to the water to prevent further limescale build-up.
*Pool surfaces are slippery*	This is possible due to multiplying algae forming colonies on the surface of the pool due to insufficient chlorination, or due to a "dead zone" in the water circulation.	Contaminated surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned to remove as much algae as possible, then burst dosing with unstable chlorine ("Chlorine 50"). Re-formation of algae can be prevented by periodic use of algicide (Blausan, Blausan K).
*Dirt on the pool wall at the waterline.*	You can see how oily deposits such as cosmetics, sunscreen or sweaty secretions are formed.	Wash with special tile and film cleaners, making sure they do not contain detergents that might react with chlorine and cause bathing discomfort.
*Washing out grout and grout in mosaic / film pools.*	Soft water corrodes grout and grout due to lack of calcium, which water takes from the grout to balance its parameters.	Re-plaster the pool and increase the calcium level in the water by adding calcium chloride granules to achieve a minimum calcium hardness of 250 mg / l. Alternatively, use calcium hypochlorite for bump dosing or for regular disinfection - calcium will be automatically added to the water when this disinfectant is used.
*High sulphate level in water. Sulphate level should not exceed 350 mg / l.*	High sulfate levels are caused by (a) high levels of sulfates in tap water, (b) dry acid (sodium bisulfate) is often used; (c) aluminum sulfate is used as a water clarifier.	If you suspect you have a reason (b) or (c) then add fresh water and switch to alternative methods of lowering the pH (for example, use trichlor, namely Chlorine 50, Chlorine 85, Chlorine 90) as the main disinfectant in the pool) or use hydrochloric acid to lower the pH. Unfortunately, almost nothing can be done in case (a).
*Water foams strongly (especially at the jet nozzles), coughing sound when the jets are turned on*	Highly foaming algicide, residues of water treatment products in winter period or cleaning agents in water	1. Increase the fresh water supply by prolonged backwashing; 2. As a preventive measure, use a non-foamy algicide (Blausan, Blausan K); 3. Do not use household cleaners, use "Radclar - powder" for cleaning the pool bowl;
*In pools with artificial flow, strong foaming of the water*	Remnants of winter preservative or cleaning agent in the water.	Increase the amount of fresh water added. Do not use household cleaners, add "Foam - Ex".
*Corrosion of metal parts of the pool*	PH level too low and / or high chlorine content	1. Increase the pH level to at least 7.2 -7.4; 2. Increase the fresh water supply; 3. Do not use hydrochloric acid to lower the pH level, use "pH - Minus";

FILTERING PROBLEMS
*Inefficient filtration of sand filters.*	Either (a) the filter is unable to retain dirt because the sand is partially washed out of the filter, or (b) the filter is clogged with accumulated debris, or (c) the sand particles are covered with calcium.	For (a) just add sand to the filter. If (b) the filter is clogged with debris, flush it. If the problem persists and the sand particles become covered with calcium (most likely in pools with hard water), use a filter cleaner ("Filter-Clar") or replace the sand.
*Ineffective filtration of cartridge filters.*	Either the cartridge is out of order, allowing particles to pass or there is too much debris in the water to handle.	Replacing the cartridge is the obvious solution. If the problem still persists, try using an additional filter or water clarifier. If unsuccessful, the final solution is to install another filter (sand or diatom).

PROBLEMS OF DISCOMFORT WHEN SWIMMING
*Burning eyes, sore throat and skin irritation*	This may be due to the fact that the water is too acidic or too alkaline (normal pH is around 7.4-7.5,)	Correct the pH. To lower the pH, add pH Minus in the indicated proportion until the correct value is obtained. To raise the pH, use the pH-Plus preparation.
	There is a lot of combined chlorine.	Destroy chloramines by superchlorinating the pool with up to 10 mg / L free chlorine ("Chlorine 50").
	Some detergents used to clean pool walls and waterline are incompatible with chlorine, so the resulting reactions in the water can irritate the eyes and skin. Similar reactions can occur if soap or shampoo gets into the water, for example, from the body of bathers.	Superchlorination ("Chlorine 50") removes detergents. Choose chlorine-compatible cleaners or avoid using them altogether.
*Strong chlorine odor, eye irritation*	Presence of undecomposed organic matter (chloramines) due to insufficient chlorine addition	1. Check the chlorine content of the water. If the concentration of free chlorine is below 0.3 mg / l, perform shock chlorination ("Chlorine 50"); 2. Simultaneously increase the fresh water supply by continuous backwashing; 3. Regularly use coagulating agents to remove organic substances from the water ("Flock liquid", "Flock in cartridges").

Blond or lightly colored hair turns greenish .

High level of copper in the pool (for a pool with chemistry).

If this situation manifests itself in a chemistry pool = This may be due to an overdose of copper based algicides, or because the pH of the pool water has dropped to such an extent that the copper fittings in the heater have begun to corrode.

1. Correct the pH. To lower the pH, add the pH-minus preparation in the indicated proportion until the correct value is obtained. To raise the pH, use the PH-Plus preparation. Rinse hair with acetylsalicylic acid tablet with water.

2. Add "Flock Liquid" or "Flock in Cartridges" to remove copper.

Allergy to chlorination .

The most important thing is to make sure that you are actually suffering from real allergies and not anything else. The discomfort you are feeling could be caused by other factors. For example, this can be due to the fact that the pH of the water is too low or too high. This may be due to high total chlorine levels (chloramines are known to be irritants). Test the water for pH and chloramines and adjust as needed. You can also go to another chlorine-treated pool and feel if you are getting the same reactions. If not, something needs to be done with water treatment. Also keep in mind that chloramines form as a result of the decomposition of nitrogenous compounds such as sweating, cosmetics, mucous membranes, etc., when hypochlorite (free chlorine) reacts with them. Chloramines are broken down by large amounts of hypochlorite and converted into harmless substances such as nitrogen gas. All this usually happens in the pool water. However, decomposition reactions can occur on the surface of the skin if, for example, you worked and sweated before swimming or used cosmetics. Remove these nitrogenous compounds from your skin by showering and rinsing thoroughly before entering the pool. If none of the advice helps, you are probably one of the few people who actually experience an allergic reaction to chlorination. Allergy is defined as hypersensitivity to a foreign substance, small doses of which cause an irritant reaction. Chlorination is rarely the primary or primary allergen, but allergy sufferers can unfortunately be susceptible to chlorination.

If you think that you have a real allergy, then the only way out is to use chlorine-free disinfectants ("Active oxygen in tablets" or "Active oxygen liquid"). But keep in mind that some of them require partial superchlorination.

Chlorination problems.

Let's consider in a little more detail the ways to solve the listed problems.

Water quality problems.

SYMPTOM: Cloudy / Milky Water.

Dissolved salts form tiny crystals as a result of high pH or high total alkalinity, or both, giving the water a milky color. Correct the pH. To lower the pH, add pH minus in the proportion indicated on the label until the correct value is obtained. To raise the pH, use the pH plus preparation.

Dirt builds up due to insufficient chlorination or poor filtration. Wash the filter, then, if necessary, superchlorinate with unstable chlorine such as sodium hypochlorite or calcium hypochlorite to raise the free chlorine level to 10 mg / L. Then add clarifier to make the water clear.

When using stable chlorine such as dichlor and trichloride, the chlorination efficiency in the pool is reduced because the water is oversaturated, that is, the cyanuric acid level is too high. As a result, chlorine has no time to destroy bacteria and this leads to cloudy water. Replace some of the pool water by draining the water down the drain (or by performing an additional large flush on the filter), then refill the pool with new tap water. This will lower the level of stable chlorine. Superchlorinate to bring the free chlorine level to 10 mg / L using the agents recommended above.

The filter is dirty or not working efficiently. Check sand and replace if necessary. Sand particles can become coated with calcium in hard water pools. If the filter is not dirty, treat it with a cleaning agent to remove grains of sand.

SYMPTOM: Cloudy / green water.

Chlorine levels have dropped or chlorination has become ineffective, allowing algae to thrive in the water. Superchlorinate with unstable chlorine such as calcium hypochlorite or sodium hypochlorite, or use an algicide. Superchlorination usually gives the fastest results. If the water is only slightly green, superchlorinate to bring the free chlorine level to 10 mg / L. For more serious problems, when the water is dark green and the bottom cannot be seen, it is necessary to superchlorinate to a level of 25 mg / l. This will destroy the algae.

Remove any algae that may remain on the pool surfaces. Look for algae on the back of stairs and around underwater lights.

Rinse the filter after 24 hours to remove dead algae from the filter.

Any remaining cloudiness in the water should be removed with a water clarifier. Now keep the chlorine level at around 3 mg / L to prevent algae from forming.

If the pool is particularly susceptible to algae, regularly use an algicide or chlorine with an added algaecide.

SYMPTOM: Rusty red water.

Steel or ferrous metal fittings in the circulation system, such as pipes, are susceptible to corrosion due to low pH. A shock dose of chlorination oxidizes the iron particles, creating rust. This often happens after the pool is reopened. It is necessary to act very quickly in order to prevent subsequent damage such as staining the surfaces of the pool liners. You need to either replace all the water in the pool at once or add fresh water gradually. Remove all rust stains from the pool surface with a good tile or film cleaner. Replace ferrous metal fittings with PVC or copper.

Make sure the fresh water is properly balanced, that is, the pH and total alkalinity are within the recommended ranges.

Bathing discomfort problems.

SYMPTOM: Burning eyes, sore throat and skin irritation.

This could be because the water is too acidic or too silky. For human perception, the normal pH is around 7.4-7.5, so if the pH is higher or lower, then irritation is possible. It is bad if the pH level goes out of the measured range, it changes the properties of chlorine. Correct the pH. To lower the pH, add the pH minus preparation in the indicated proportion until the correct value is obtained. To raise the pH, use the pH plus preparation.

There is a lot of combined chlorine. If you smell chlorine, it is likely that high levels of chloramines are an irritant problem. Destroy chloramines by superchlorinating the pool with up to 10 mg / L free chlorine.

Some detergents used to clean pool walls and waterline are incompatible with chlorine, so the resulting reactions in the water can irritate the eyes and skin. Similar reactions can occur if soap or shampoo gets into the water, for example, from the body of bathers. Superchlorination removes detergents.

Choose chlorine-compatible cleaners or avoid using them altogether.

SYMPTOM: Blond or lightly colored hair turns greenish.

High copper levels in the pool. This can be due to an overdose of copper based algicides, or because the pH of the pool water has dropped to the point that copper fittings in the heater have begun to corrode. Correct the pH. To lower the pH, add the pH minus preparation in the indicated proportion until the correct value is obtained. To raise the pH, use the pH plus preparation.

SYMPTOM: Allergy to chlorination.

Also keep in mind that chloramines form as a result of the decomposition of nitrogenous compounds such as sweating, cosmetics, mucous membranes, etc., when hypochlorite (free chlorine) reacts with them. Chloramines are broken down by large amounts of hypochlorite and converted into harmless substances such as nitrogen gas. All this usually happens in the pool water. However, decomposition reactions can occur on the surface of the skin if, for example, you worked and sweated before swimming or used cosmetics. Remove these nitrogenous compounds from your skin by showering and rinsing thoroughly before entering the pool.

If none of the advice helps, you are probably one of the few people who actually experience an allergic reaction to chlorination. Allergy is defined as hypersensitivity to a foreign substance, small doses of which cause an irritant reaction. Chlorination is rarely the primary or primary allergen, but allergy sufferers can unfortunately be susceptible to chlorination.

If you think you have a real allergy, the only solution is to use chlorine-free disinfectants. But keep in mind that some of them require partial or superchlorination.

Chlorination problems.

SYMPTOM: Chlorine has been added to the water, but there is no reading on the test kit.

The chlorine level in the pool is so high that it bleaches the dye in the test tablet. To confirm the diagnosis, try detecting chlorine odor above the surface of the water or repeat the DPD-1 test with only a drop of pool water in the test tube and try to see the red color before bleaching. Determine the approximate chlorination level by dissolving a pool water sample with an equal amount of natural or distilled water, multiply the answer by 2. If there is still no reading, repeat the dilution process and multiply the answer by 4. etc.

If the actual chlorination is not too high (about 10 mg / L), stop chlorination and let the chlorine evaporate for a while.

If the chlorination is significantly higher or if you must use the pool in the near future, add SODIUM THIOSULPHATE to reduce free chlorine. WARNING: the recommended dose is 0.5 kg per 100 mZ. Apply this in several small doses, testing after each dose. An overdose of sodium thiosulfate can cause chlorine deficiency for a long time.

Na 2 S 2 O 3 + 4Cl 2 + 5H 2 O -> 2H 2 SO 4 + 2NaCl + 6HCl

SYMPTOM: The chlorination level is difficult to control.

In outdoor pools, hypochlorite (free chlorine) is decomposed by ultraviolet radiation from the sun. For pools using liquid chlorination (sodium hypochlorite) or calcium hypochlorite, add stabilizer (cyanuric acid) at a rate of 3 kg per 100 m3. It must be added directly to the pool, DO NOT pre-mix with other chlorine. Alternatively, switch to continuous chlorination with dichloro granules or trichloro tablets.

The water temperature is high, and germs in warm water feel at home and multiply much faster. The more microbes, the more chlorine is needed to destroy them.

There is a rough rule of thumb to keep in mind in hot weather, that if the pool water temperature rises above 26 degrees Celsius, then a double dose of chlorine is needed for every 5 degrees increase in temperature. The chlorine dose should be increased in proportion to the water temperature. Strictly monitor chlorine levels in hot weather

Due to the fact that the chlorine level was not high enough, a lot of pollutants gradually appeared, and therefore the need to increase the chlorine dose. The pool should be superchlorinated to achieve a free chlorine level of 10 mg / l.

Problems of the balance of water parameters.

SYMPTOM: There is a tendency for the pH level to remain low (below 7.2)

This is usually due to both the low pH level of tap water (especially where the water is soft) and the use of acidic chlorine compounds such as trichloride. Correct the pH. To raise the pH level, add pHt in the correct proportion until the desired value is obtained.

A high pH chlorination agent must be used to achieve a natural balance between the low pH of the water and the high pH of the chlorination source. Dichlor - approximately pH neutral; calcium hypochlorite and sodium hypochlorite are high pH chlorination sources.

SYMPTOM: There is a tendency for the pH level to be consistently high (above 7.6)

This occurs both due to (1) the high pH of tap water (especially where the water is hard) and (2) when using alkaline sources of chlorination such as calcium hypochlorite or sodium hypochlorite, or (3) because of sparingly soluble salts leached into new concrete basins. One thing for all three is to adjust the pH. To quickly lower the pH, add dichlorine granules at a ratio of 1 kg to 100 m3 per day until you get correct level pH.

For case (1) and (2), a low pH chlorination agent must be selected to help achieve a natural balance between the high pH of the water and the low pH of the chlorination source. Trichloride is the optimal chlorination source to choose from.

SYMPTOM: pH values are erroneous and fluctuating.

The total alkalinity is too low to maintain the pH. Add pH + to keep the total alkalinity above 100 mg / L. The dose is 3 kg per 100 m3 W of the pool water.

SYMPTOM: The pH is fixed.

Water, due to its high alkalinity, keeps the pH at the same level. This is a common problem in hard water pools where tap water has a high total alkalinity. Add dichlorine granules to lower the total alkalinity below 200 mg / L. Dose - 2 kg per 100 m3 of pool water. It is important to add a little acid and pre-dissolve it in a ratio no stronger than 8: 1.

SYMPTOM: The alkalinity is too high.

Local tap water has low bicarbonate levels, so whenever the pool is filled from the mains, the bicarbonate will dissolve in the pool. This is a specific problem in soft water pools. Add pH +. to raise the total alkalinity to 100 mg / L. The dose is 3 kg per 100 m3 of pool water (this should raise the level by 20 mg / l per dose).

Pool surfaces problems.

Flushing out grout in mosaic / tiled pools.

Soft water corrodes grout and grout due to lack of calcium, which water takes from the grout to balance its parameters. Re-plaster the pool and increase the calcium level in the water by adding calcium chloride granules to achieve a minimum calcium hardness of 250 mg / l. Alternatively, use calcium hypochlorite for bump dosing or for regular disinfection - calcium will be automatically added to the water when this disinfectant is used.

High sulphate level in the water. The sulfate level should not exceed 350 mg / l. High sulphate levels are caused by (a) high sulphate levels in tap water, (b) dry acid (sodium bisulphate) is often used, or (c) aluminum sulphate is used as a water clarifier. If you suspect that you have cause (b) or (c), then add fresh water and switch to alternative methods of lowering the pH (for example, using trichlor as the main disinfectant in the pool) or clarifying the water (sulfate-free water treatment). Unfortunately, almost nothing can be done in case (a).

SYMPTOM: Pool surfaces are rough and covered with deposits.

The balance between pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness is wrong and water itself forms deposits. Test for pH, total alkalinity and calcium hardness and adjust within the recommended settings.

SYMPTOM: Pool surfaces are slippery

This is possible due to algae multiplying forming colonies on the surface of the pool due to insufficient chlorination, or due to a "dead zone" in the water circulation. Contaminated surfaces should be thoroughly scrubbed to remove as much algae as possible, then shock dosing with unstable chlorine. You can prevent the re-formation of algae by periodically using algaecide.

SYMPTOM: Dirt on the pool wall at the waterline.

You can see how oily deposits such as cosmetics, sunscreen or sweaty secretions are formed. Wash with special tile and film cleaners, making sure they do not contain detergents that might react with chlorine and cause bathing discomfort.

Filtration problems.

SYMPTOM: Ineffective sand filter filtration.

Either (a) the filter is unable to retain dirt because the sand has partially washed out of the filter, or (b) the filter is clogged with accumulated debris, or (c) the sand particles are covered with calcium. For (a) just add sand to the filter. If (b) the filter is clogged with debris, flush it. If the problem persists and the sand particles become covered in calcium (most likely in hard water pools), use a filter cleaner.

SYMPTOM: Inefficient filtration of cartridge filters.

Either the cartridge is out of order, allowing particles to pass or there is too much debris in the water to handle. Replacing the cartridge is the obvious solution. If the problem still persists, try using an additional filter or water clarifier. If unsuccessful, the final solution is to install a sand filter.

If the water in your pool is clear and blue, then such a pool beckons to itself with irresistible force. Well, if on the contrary - an opaque slurry with a dubious smell - you may get the feeling that now some evil spirits will jump out of there ... How can you keep the water safe and attractive and what to do if it becomes cloudy? This is what we will talk about in today's article.

Why does the water become cloudy and what can be done about it

Turbid water in the pool- this is a fairly common occurrence and there are certain reasons for this. Warm days and the sun's rays give rise to the reproduction of microscopic algae, which fill all the water, settling even on the walls of the pool. Once upon a time life was born, and the process continues, but we do not need it in the pool at all. Prevention is better than the subsequent struggle with various advantages, now in your favor, now in favor of life on earth. In general, bacteria, which also contribute to the pollution of the pool, get there with garbage, with swimmers, with animals, with swimming accessories.

Water with low acidity or generally neutral is the most favorable condition for the growth of all kinds of bacteria.

If your water is below 7 units, then your pool is at risk. The optimal value is above 7 units, better than 7.2 - 7.4. In too warm water algae multiply, and in darkened water - bacteria. Same way Still water(rarely used and without filtration) is the same for the development of microorganisms, the water becomes more and more turbid, and the debris arriving with the wind aggravates this problem.

Poor quality water, and even if there is no filter, or a filter with cheap cartridges - it also disposes to rapid turbidity. The water can also become cloudy due to the fact that the pool is filled from a rusty water supply system, or maybe from a well where the water is highly hardened.

All of the above problems can make the water cloudy in the pool. Also, the water can become cloudy due to chlorine reagents.

Change the pH in the right direction - that's your task.

In this article, we'll talk about how to make your pool water blue. It happens that the dregs for bathers are not dangerous, but simply unpleasant for aesthetic reasons. If, among other things, rust was also noticed on the metal components of the pool, then you should pay attention to the acid-base balance. The water is too acidic, this can be corrected by enriching the water with oxygen.

Determining the acidity of water is easy and simple with special testers that can be bought in a store. The sample should be taken at a depth of 5-7 cm from the surface and as far as possible from the filter. With testers, as a rule, there is an instruction with which you need to compare the color obtained on the tester. And then, you just need to decide what reagents you need - increasing or decreasing the level of acidity in water.

But the reagent to the reagent is different, from some allergies can occur, others are simply unpleasant in water.

Muddy water in the pool

Poisonous chemicals in reasonable doses help you out

If you have a pool and the water is cloudy, then first of all the question arises why this happened and how it can be corrected. Of course, chlorine and chlorine is your first helper in pool water maintenance. The composition of the reagents contains cyanuric acid - a stabilizer - it prevents chlorine from evaporating under solar ultraviolet light.

Every day, add 10 grams for every 10 cubic meters of water. This will help keep bacteria in check, but in severe cases, the use of 200 grams for every 10 cubes is lowered.

Follow the instructions carefully and do not overdo it with the reagent, cyanuric acid weakens the effect of chlorine in water if it accumulates strongly.

Imagine - you returned from a business trip or vacation, and in the pool - a disaster! All the water is green ... In such cases, the usual reagents will act too slowly, then you need to save the pool immediately. This is where the usual Whiteness will come to your aid. Yes - yes, it is she, the main component in it - sodium hypochlorite - is highly volatile chlorine, but this is what will help him quickly enter into the desired reaction with water and its problems. In half an hour, he will finish his work and partly evaporate, and partly settle to the bottom with microparticles.

Do not consider the bacteria and other microorganisms that live in the pool water as harmless, among them can be dangerous to humans. Chlorine destroys almost all of them. But even in strong doses, it can cause harm to a person, allergies, or simply redness, inhalation of chlorine harms the lungs, and it also destroys over time the wood, concrete, and metal from which your pools are made.

How to clarify the pool water

Chemical reagents with which dirt will settle to the bottom

So how to clarify pool water? This is what we are talking about in this publication. You can use special reagents, which are resorted to in case of allergy to bleach or its nasty smell does not suit.

Coagulants and flocculants Are polymers that react with all microorganisms in the pool. Flakes that settle to the bottom along with all the dirt and bacteria will tell you about it, and you need to collect them with a vacuum cleaner. The substances themselves are odorless, and are harmless to the skin or mucous membranes, do not change the acid balance of water and do not accumulate dissolved metal. But they all act differently

These drugs (coagulants) go well with good quality filters. They are poured directly into the water and you need to immediately drive them all over the reservoir. If the pool is round, you can just walk along the side several times with an ordinary shovel. At this time, the filters must be turned off, and the fresh water supply must also be turned off. The drugs change the charges of the particles to neutral ones, which allows them to gather in flakes. But the precipitate in the form of flakes is too small for the filter, only sand models can cope with them.

For large-cell models, these preparations (flocculants) will not be very compatible, since the flakes are viscous and quickly clog all the cells. And swimming simultaneously with the action of polymers is also undesirable for the same reason. They bind just smaller particles into larger flakes and can be used simultaneously with coagulants. Their action lasts up to several days, this is noticeable with the addition of fresh water - new flakes are added.

Ozone water treatment

Getting from a polluted city to nature, you immediately feel the difference - the air is much cleaner. And after lightning discharges, the air is saturated with ozone. But this freshness is not for long - ozone is extremely volatile and evaporates quickly. 40 minutes is enough for only a quarter of the initial volume of ozone to remain. Along with the freshness, ozone is extremely harmful to all kinds of microorganisms. It is this property that is used to clean the premises. And by oxidizing organic substances, it contributes to their death, therefore ozone has found applications in the purification of water in the pool.

Although there are difficulties in installing ozone purification systems, they will completely eliminate the use of chemicals for purifying your water. Chlorination is allowed for preventive purposes only. Such a system is more often closed, in it gas is supplied from the generator to the general circuit and from there it enters the reservoir with water. This is where the process of water disinfection takes place. Then the water flows into the pool itself, and the excess ozone is converted into oxygen in the destructor.

The power of the generator determines the complete or partial ozonation of the liquid. V volumetric pool where only 5% of the water is renewed each time the filter capsule is rinsed, a full cleaning cycle is advisable. Although not particularly economical, it allows you to reduce prophylaxis with pool bleach. And for small pools, partial ozonation can be allowed, with a powerful pump the water will be pumped out 4 times a day. Then 100% of the water will be ozonized, and you can forget about chlorine for the entire swimming season.

We remove the flakes of sediment

So, we have - as a result of the action of special preparations, flakes lying on the bottom, or floating on the surface of the water. It is necessary to carefully collect all this from the bottom, walls and surface. For this, there are special vacuum cleaners. A hollow tube is attached to it, and a bottom brush is attached to it. It is not necessary to climb into the water with him, but you can just walk along the sides. A trash skimmer is also suitable for pool cleaning purposes.

There are also robots - cleaners, automatic vacuum cleaners, they don't need a man at all. With the help of a corrugated hose, they are connected to the filter, and electricity is supplied to them through a flexible wire, securely insulated. They move on small wheels or tracks, their large ribs perfectly cling to the bottom. But most of them are unable to clean the walls, although there are now models with barbells with brushes. There are even wall-crawling options. But if the layer of dirt is very dense, then no robot can cope with it, only manual cleaning is needed here. A substitute for an expensive vacuum cleaner can be a submersible pump that can suck in the entire contents of the bottom of the pool bowl.

Pool water becomes cloudy when a large number of tiny particles of a substance either enter the water or fall out of solution. These particles reflect light, resulting in a cloudy pool. The particles themselves can come from many sources:

Human sources- sunscreen oils and lotions, skin proteins, sweat, body fluids.
Sources of environment - algae, pollen, leaves, dust, fine sand.
Chemical sources- calcium carbonate, calcium hypochlorite.

There are two important things to know about particles - important because they will help you figure out how to get rid of them.

They are very small- from 0.5 to 5.0 microns. Since most pool filtration systems cannot filter out substances less than 30 microns in size, they are therefore too small to be easily filtered out when filtering a pool.
They carry a negative electrical charge.... This means that they repel each other and each particle hangs in an isolated suspension in the pool water. Why does it matter? Because some of the cleaning methods involve actually changing the electrical charge of the particles so that they stick together into coagulated particles large enough for your pool filtration system to handle.

How cloudy is the water?

There are different degrees of turbidity. And the degree of turbidity is often the key to the cause and determines the appropriate cleaning process.

Matt- the pool water seems to have lost its luster. A bit like the difference between glossy and matte paint.
Muddy- the water has a transparent milky color. At the shallow end, you can see the bottom of the pool, but at the deep end, you should be looking pretty intently.
Opaque turbid- very milky pool water. You cannot see the bottom at all.

Causes of muddy pool water

Just as there are many sources, there are many reasons why these particles suddenly appear. And very often, there is not one cause, but many different reasons that combine and feed each other, as a result of which the water in your pool becomes cloudy.

Circulation and filtration problems

Insufficient filtration time... Pools require 8 hours of filtration per day and if the pump is not running long enough it will not be able to filter the water properly.
Inadequate filtration equipment... If the filter size is too small or the pump itself is too small for the size of your pool, cloudy pool water can often result.
Wrong filtration equipment... Likewise, if your pool pump has a motor too powerful for your pool size, the water will pass through the filter too quickly and you will actually get less filtration.
Dirty or damaged filtration equipment... If you have a sand filter, make sure it is clean and the filter basket is clean. If you have a cartridge filter, make sure that it does not need to be cleaned or replaced.
Insufficient circulation... May be the result of valves closing when they should be open, or opening when they should be closed. Also skimmer baskets can be blocked by leaves, plastic toys, etc.

Human factor

You've probably noticed that after a day of intensive pool use, especially after a pool party, the water looks dull or cloudy. The reason is because the chlorine in the pool is struggling to cope with all those sunscreen lotions, body oils, hair oils, and body fluids, including urine in particular! Chlorine reacts with all of this (and especially with ammonia, which quickly breaks down from urine), the insoluble waste from this process is called chloramines. do not just make the water slightly cloudy, they give it an unpleasant and too characteristic chlorine smell.

Environmental impact

Pollen, dust, mold, etc. The particles may be too small for your pool system to filter out.
Water runoff... The problem is phosphates, nitrates and other chemicals that wash out of the soil into the pool during heavy rainfall, which can cause the pool to become cloudy or cloudy.
Insects, animals, bird droppings... Dead "animals" in the pool or bird droppings in the water have the same effect on chloramines production as human waste products.
Seaweed. A cloudy pool can herald the beginning - especially if the water is greenish.

Also, if you've recently cleaned the pool of algae, the water will be cloudy. This is because you are now seeing dead, white algae. Dead algae is certainly much better than live algae, but your pool is cloudy until you clean it out.

Unbalanced pool chemicals

Your pool water chemistry, including chlorination, pH and alkalinity, are common causes of pool cloudiness.

High pH... When the pH in the pool gets too high (over 7.8), the water can no longer hold the calcium carbonate in solution. Instead of being held in solution, it begins to fall out. Result? A muddy pool. In addition, at high pH levels, chlorine loses most of its ability to kill bacteria or algae.
High total alkalinity... If the total alkalinity of the pool is too high (more than 170 mg / l), it can lead to cloudy water.
Water temperature and calcium hardness (CH)... Water from sources rich in limestone is often high in calcium. Calcium dissolves more easily in cold water than warm, and when the water temperature significantly exceeds 29 ° C, it falls out of solution into suspension.
Shock chlorination. It is normal for pool water to be cloudy due to shock, so if you've shocked your pool in the past 24 hours, there is nothing to worry about for now. As long as your pool is circulating and your filter is working properly, the turbidity should disappear in no more than one day.

How to clean up a muddy pool

In most cases, cleaning up a muddy pool is fairly straightforward. All that is usually required is the administration of the correct dose of coagulant or flocculant.

Remember two important things about particles? They are small and they repel each other because they are all negatively charged. The way coagulants and flocculants work is that they neutralize an electrical charge so that the particles stick together into something large enough to be filtered out, or heavy enough to sink to the bottom of a pool for subsequent vacuuming. Important do not use too much coagulant... Using too much will not just neutralize the electrical charge, it will reverse it completely. This will make the pool even more cloudy.

If the water is matte:

Start the pump.
Leave the pump and filter system on for 12 hours.

If the water is cloudy:

Start the pump.
Adjust the pH between 7.2 and 7.4.
Add the recommended dose of coagulant for your pool volume.
Leave the pump and filter system on for 8 hours.
Turn off the pump and let the pool sit for 8-10 hours.
Vacuum the pool thoroughly and backwash.
Run the pump for another 4 hours.

If the turbidity is caused by algae:

If you are sure that algae is the cause, then follow the appropriate steps above.

If the water is cloudy:

Add water to the pool above the skimmer line.
Adjust pH to 7.4.
If you have a sand filter, install a recirculation valve. If you have a pool filter cartridge, remove the cartridge.
Start the pump.
Add the recommended dose of coagulant for your pool volume.
Let the pump run for 2-3 hours.
Turn off the pump and let the pool stand for 10-12 hours.
Vacuum the pool thoroughly and backwash the filter.
If the water is still cloudy, let the pool stand for another 24 hours and repeat the cleaning.

Regular maintenance

Maintaining your pool throughout the season will not only ensure excellent water clarity, but also keep it safe enough. For achievement best results follow weekly maintenance procedures to keep track of the health and quality of your pool.

Routine pool maintenance should include:

Removing large pieces of debris (such as leaves) from the water.
Cleaning the bottom and sides of the pool to remove dirt and algae.
Cleaning the pool with a vacuum cleaner.
Checking the filter and removing any large contamination.
Testing for chlorine, pH and other levels.
Shocking the pool.

Consider replacing the filter. If it is not working properly or it is a sandy filter, then you may have damaged the filter bed during backwashing. Constant maintenance of the water condition is of paramount importance, therefore any faults should be rectified. Check supply lines and filter bed to determine if replacement is necessary.

Clean the bottom and sides of the pool. Vacuum up loose debris, brush the sides and bottom with a stiff brush and pick up the rest again. Run the filter for 8-12 hours to remove any debris and deposits that could contaminate the water.

Perform a chemical water treatment to remove contamination from small particles. The presence of free colloidal particles leads to cloudy water. They are organic (algae) or mineral (free calcium). Adjust the required level of chemicals and turn on the filtration system in the pool for a day, and then re-analyze the water.

Free chlorine: 1-2 ppm
Chlorine derivatives:< 0,3 промилле
PH level: 7.2 - 7.8
Total alkalinity: 80 - 120 ppm
Calcium hardness: 180 - 220 ppm (more than high levels up to 400 ppm)

Adjust the pH with a commercially available oxidizer or increase the alkalinity with brown. Do not attempt to mix strong acids or bases in a pool or without skin, eye and respiratory protection.

Cushion pool water if levels of chlorine derivatives (total chlorine minus free chlorine) exceed 0.3 ppm. Chlorine derivatives are free chlorine that has reacted in water with a reagent to form chloramine, which has a pungent chlorine odor. Pool cushion kits increase chlorine levels to over 30ppm.

Keep the chlorine and bromine levels constant over several days. Dramatic changes from day to day indicate a problem with chlorine absorption. Keep an eye on cyanuric acid, which acts as a chlorine stabilizer to prevent UV degradation, and inspect a chlorinator or purchase this unit for easy pool maintenance.

Adjust the total alkalinity of the water with sodium hydrogen sulfate or hydrochloric acid. Add them according to the instructions on the package, based on the volume of the pool. The solutions should spread in the pool and complete the chemical reactions within six hours.

Adjust the water hardness using a softener. You can also dilute the pool water with softer water. Agglomerating solutions work best in slightly alkaline water and take several days to work. The hardness of local water resources varies greatly from region to region, therefore, the concentration of the solution and the volume of dilution are best determined in conjunction with a specialist.

If other methods do not work, then use the clarifier as directed. Clarifiers are agglomerating solutions that combine with colloids in water and bring them out of suspension, in order to then be removed by means of a vacuum cleaner or filter. Such chemicals are called flocculants and the process is called flocculation. Do not turn off the filter until the water is clear.