How to make a bow with your own hands at home. Moorish lawn pros and cons Meadow in the country

In North Africa and Spain in the 7th-8th centuries, the Moors and Arabs formed their own states, whose rulers erected luxurious palaces. Parks and gardens laid out around them combined elements of cultures of different peoples. It is believed that through the efforts of the Slavs who penetrated into Spain through Constantinople from the Crimea, and in the XII century, widely represented in the military class, the Moorish lawn was created. That is why it looks like a blooming field meadow in Russia. Greenery with the inclusion of variegated herbs, consisting of simple wildflowers, was dear to the hearts of the Slavs who missed their homeland.

Moorish lawns have recently come into fashion again

Today, the Moorish meadow, a little forgotten over the years, is again at its peak. It began to be used more often in landscape design. And we have the opportunity to admire and enjoy its natural beauty.

The mixture used to create a Moorish lawn includes wildflower seeds and. In order for a blooming lawn to please from spring to autumn, plants of different flowering periods should be combined. The choice of specific flowers can only be limited by the personal preferences of the garden owner.

Moorish Meadow Blend includes grass seeds and a variety of flowers

The composition of the Moorish lawn more often than other colors include:

The bright red and moderately large flowers of the oriental poppy invariably attract attention. It is a perennial plant that blooms during the last 2 weeks of May. Poppy pods contain seeds and provide self-seeding.

Bright poppy - a real decoration of the meadow in the Moorish style

The dazzling blue inflorescences of this plant are familiar and loved by us since childhood. Cornflowers bloom from the end of June and continues until the end of August. Both annual and perennial types of cornflowers can be found. The plant can be easily renewed with seeds.

Since childhood, the familiar and beloved field cornflower evokes nostalgic thoughts about his native country.

This plant is a traditional perennial, without which the Russian meadow looks unfinished. Chamomile looks great with bells and cornflowers. Chamomile height is up to 90 cm, so group planting is especially attractive. Chamomile bloom begins in March, April, and can continue until October.

Meadow chamomile is a perennial traditional for Russia

The medicinal plant echinacea is perennial and looks great when planted in groups. Echinacea, even when cut, retains its attractive appearance for a long time and is a real decoration of the interior. Echinacea inflorescences can have a pale pink color, reaching deep red. Echinacea blooms can begin in May-June. The flower can provoke allergic reactions.

Echinacea is usually used in a group landing.

The fact that this plant is an annual cannot detract from its beauty. Linen is often used for making bouquets. The plant can be not only sky-blue, but also red and even white-red colors. Inflorescences reach up to 3 centimeters in diameter.

Linen can be not only a delicate heavenly color, but also purple, and even white with a red core.

The genus of this plant unites more than 50 species of annual and perennial plants. Bright, festive, unpretentious nemesia blooms from the very beginning of summer until late autumn. Loving light and resistant to cold, nemesia decorates the lawn with yellow, white, red and even purple flowers.

Photophilous and cold-resistant nemesia blooms all summer until late autumn

Bulbous plants go well in a Moorish lawn with other flowers and herbs

Most of the flowers that make up the Moorish lawn are honey plants. Bright and fragrant inflorescences attract not only butterflies, but also bees. You have to be ready for this. Bulbous species can also be included in the composition of lawn flowers, which bloom together in the spring. Crocuses, tulips and daffodils go well with grasses.

Among the grasses themselves, preference can be given to meadow bluegrass, fine bent grass, meadow timothy and pasture ryegrass. The ratio of herbs to flowers should be in favor of cereals. You can stop at 80:20, but sometimes 95: 5 is limited. It must be remembered that the proportions of annuals and perennials must be adjusted in time.

Stages of creating a flower garden-lawn in a garden plot

It is not so difficult to create a Moorish lawn with your own hands. This does not require a lot of money and backbreaking work. The Moorish lawn is bright and variegated. This is probably why they should not occupy large spaces. It looks great on a small area, like a clearing flooded with sunlight. This can be a gap between trees, an area that contrasts with a regular lawn, or a space along the border of an area.

A Moorish meadow does not need a lot of space: along the fence, or between the trees, it will look good

Soil preparation

After the territory for the lawn has been determined, it must be freed from weeds and carefully dug up. It is better to do this in the fall. Digging should be done 15-25 centimeters deep.

In the same period, it is better to apply fertilizers. The surface of the soil is covered with manure by five centimeters, after which it is dug up to 30-40 cm. The soil can be crushed or even rolled, using a cylindrical container filled with water for this purpose.

The material on how to care for the soil in the country will also be useful:

Sowing seeds and planting bulbous plants

Sowing seeds can be done two weeks after soil preparation, but it is better to do this in the spring. In the period from April to June, depending on the climatic conditions of the area, we start work.

Seeds should be applied to moistened soil, with manual sowing, the rate should be increased by 10%

For planting a lawn, you can take ready-made mixtures, which are often sold in stores. You can also make the desired mixture yourself by buying separately the seeds of cereal grasses and flowers. Mixing of seeds is allowed, then the lawn will look more or less evenly colored. If you first sow cereals, and then flowering plants, then the flowers form a kind of islands, which also looks attractive.

Before planting seeds, the soil must be watered. The seeds are deepened into moderately moist soil by 3-5 mm. A square meter of the area for sowing requires at least 50 grams of seeds or 5 kg per one hundred square meters. If it is planned to plant bulbous plants, then priority in the order of planting should be given to large plants, and small plants should be placed in groups of about ten or a little more. It is the bulbous that the empty spaces after annuals can be filled.

So that the seedlings are friendly and uniform, the soil can be covered with non-woven material. The first shoots can be expected in a week or two.

Features of the care of the Mauritanian lawn

For the Moorish lawn, despite all its naturalness, care is needed. It also needs to be watered on time and weeds should not be allowed to appear on it. Particular attention should be paid to the timely mowing of the meadow.

The first mowing of the lawn is carried out at the emergence of seedlings of cereals, while the flowers have not yet sprouted

While the lawn is not yet settled, clear mowing rules must be applied to it. When the grasses have already risen, and the flowers have not yet appeared, the first mowing of the lawn should take place. This is done so that the grass does not drown out the growth of flowers. They must go into effect. Throughout the summer, the lawn will grow and bloom just like its natural counterparts. But with the onset of autumn, when the seeding occurred, the lawn needs to be mowed again. This happens around September-October. From the soil surface, the mowing height should not be lower than 8 cm and higher than 12.

A little unkempt gives the meadow a special charm.

In subsequent years, the mowing periods are determined by the owner of the meadow. The principle is the same: you need to give the plants the opportunity to shed their seeds before they are cut. He should keep the resemblance to a natural lawn, and a little unkempt, if it looks natural, you never want to destroy.

A colorful meadow dotted with a dozen varieties of grasses and wildflowers, like a magnet, attracts the eye. For you - the secrets of planting and caring for a Moorish lawn.

Peculiarities

The perfect English lawn looks impressive, but rather boring. Bright Moorish attracts with naturalness and restrained beauty.

Benefits of a blooming lawn:

  • simple care, a minimum of agrotechnical measures;
  • to give a pleasant look, you need to mow the site only once - during the growing season;
  • easy to pick up herbal and flower mixtures;
  • the number of plant species suitable for creating a variegated meadow in the country reaches forty;
  • a beautiful corner is easy to create on insufficiently fertile soil;
  • weed growth is rather slow;
  • you can equip a Moorish lawn even in a small area.

Stages of creating a flowering meadow with your own hands

It is not enough just to sow grass and wildflowers. Caring for a Moorish lawn is easy, but furnishing will require accuracy and attention to detail. Nothing supernatural, but negligence is inappropriate.

Step by step:

  1. Choose a suitable location. The best option is an open, well-lit area with the sun.
  2. There are no special requirements for the composition of the soil.
  3. The plot should not be very large. You can arrange a flowering meadow next to a hedge, in front of the house, or near a body of water (if there is one).
  4. Buy grass and meadow flower seeds. Combine flowers according to your taste, choosing brighter colors or quieter tones.
  5. Experienced summer residents recommend buying domestic varieties, they take root better in the local climate.
  6. Level the soil, get rid of weeds and accumulated debris. If there are too many weeds, treat the soil with herbicides. Doses - according to the instructions.
  7. Dig up the soil, add peat, fertilizer and sand. Before planting, it is advisable to feed the soil with nitrogen-containing compounds.
  8. The final stage is soil compaction and leveling. You can plant a Moorish lawn in 2-3 weeks.

Seeds. Compound

For the arrangement of a flowering meadow on the site, ready-made seed mixtures are sold in specialized stores "Everything for a garden-garden", "Green world", etc. Separate bags contain cereals and seeds of flowering plants.

How to sow:

  1. The first option is to mix the contents of both bags and sow both herbs and flowers at the same time. The lawn will be more uniform.
  2. Option two: sow cereals, and then flowers. As a result, bright "islands" will appear on the lawn.

Sow seeds only in well-heated soil. In different regions, this period falls on April-May.

Landing rules:

  • moisten the soil, but do not flood it;
  • deepen the seeds from 3 to 5 mm;
  • number of seeds: 10 g per 1 sq. m;
  • gently level the soil and water the lawn.

Seedlings will appear in a week or two. By mid-July, the flower lawn will be perfect.

Advice: Non-woven fabric stretched over the future flowering lawn will accelerate seed germination and protect seedlings from birds. Provide adequate air access to the ground.

Flowers for flower beds and lawns

A bright corner, pleasing to the eye from spring to late autumn, is easy to create.

Find plants that bloom at different times.

Every owner can easily find suitable crops and flowers.

Advice: the optimal ratio of flowers and meadow grasses: 80% to 20% or 95% to 5%. Check in the store which plants are annuals and which ones will delight you for several years.

Popular herbs:

  1. Meadow bluegrass.
  2. The bent field is thin.
  3. Pasture ryegrass.
  4. Timothy grass.

Flowers for the Moorish lawn:

  1. Oriental poppy... Large, bright flowers are visible from afar. Scarlet poppies are the highlight of a variegated meadow, blooming in mid-May.
  2. Swimsuit... The herbaceous perennial has taken root in many parts of Russia. Fiery yellow buds - "roses" will revive any lawn. He loves moist soil, several interesting varieties have been bred.
  3. Field cornflower... Delicate blue flowers give the lawn a pleasant look. Germinates well, has a long flowering period.
  4. Meadow chamomile... A perennial familiar to everyone. It blooms for a long time, looks good next to bells and cornflowers.
  5. Red clover... Low plants with delicate lilac flowers are unpretentious, pleasing to the eye and attract bees. Long flowering period.
  6. Nemesia... Beautiful, yellow or white flowers are collected in graceful inflorescences. The plant tolerates winter well, grows well in sunny areas.
  7. Marigold... The plant with bright yellow or orange flowers has taken root well in different regions of the country. Marigolds bloom for a long time, do not require special care.
  8. Chinese carnation... Bushes up to 0.5 m high with narrow leaves are frequent "guests" of Moorish or flowering lawns. Flowers - from white to purple, certainly with a burgundy border and cuts. Hybrid varieties - annuals, flowering - from June to August.

Note! Many flowers for the Moorish lawn are honey plants. Butterflies and bees will often fly to your site. Choose flowers with vibrant buds.

Decoration of lawns with flowers. Photo gallery

Stick basic rules for placing flowering plants:

  • plant creeping or cushion perennials in the foreground;
  • leave room for growth, keep a checkerboard pattern;
  • on a small lawn, do not get carried away with the number of compositions;
  • pick plants that have similar environmental requirements;
  • the assortment should provide flowering for a long time;
  • do not forget about the bulbous species that go well with cereals.

Photo of a Moorish (flowering) lawn.


Highly productive meadow system,

which is a honey base for an apiary, as well as a decorative component of the estate.

Reasons for the selection of plants for the meadow: winter hardiness, unpretentiousness, compatibility with each other, maximum flowering period, melliferous properties, the ability to form a dense "carpet".

List of plants:

    Cereal herbs

  • Sainfoin

    Delphinium

    Calendula

    Gypsophila

    Cornflowers

    Daisies

    Saxifrage

    Sweet pea

    Bells

Description of plants:

Cereals

Falyaris (two-source) reed

Reaches 1.5 m in height, resistant to rain and wind, extremely unpretentious. However, aggressive, needs a restraint. It has strong creeping rhizomes and is capable of growing in infertile dry soil, but prefers moist soil. Feels good in the sun and partial shade. This valuable garden grass is always decorative. It grows in early spring. It goes well with perennials: peonies, Siberian irises, hosts. Hibernates without shelter.

Reed spine-flowered

It grows very quickly, unpretentious, easily tolerates drought, grows both in the sun and in partial shade. In especially harsh winters, it needs light shelter. Unlike many other cereals, it thrives on heavy clayey soils. It grows very early and quickly. The plant forms compact bumps. It goes very nicely with daylilies, lupines, loosestrife, aconites, anemones, hosts and perennial asters.

Rod-shaped millet

Ornamental perennial herb with beautiful inflorescences. It begins to grow in late spring. The root system is very powerful and deep, but not creeping, the plant forms a compact hummock, which turns red by autumn. Millet is unpretentious to fertility and watering. It is better to find a warm, sunny place for it. It goes well with shrub asters, lilies, catnip. Millet is an ideal neighbor for spring bulbs.

Sasleria blue

(Sesleria caerulea) is a frost-resistant perennial ornamental cereal. It is a low hemispherical hummock up to 18-20 cm high. On the upper side, the leaf blade is bright green, and the lower one has a bluish-white color. It is non-aggressive, grows moderately, does not spread. It grows back quite early in the spring, and at the end of May, fluffy spikelets appear. Semi-shady places are suitable, where it is planted in groups in combination with other perennials.

Turfy pike

Sod pike belongs to cereals used for decorative purposes. This plant is extremely unpretentious, and because of its numerous leaves and spikelets that form a round hummock, it is very beautiful. The leaves of a decorative pike can grow to a length of 35-40 centimeters. They are from 0.5 to 3 centimeters wide, depending on the care and variety. Flowers bloom most often at the end of June, less often in mid-July, and can change their color as they ripen.

The panicle is compressed during dissolution, slightly drooping; during flowering, it is loose, spreading with numerous shiny spikelets. In the sun, the flower stalks reach a height of 1.2 m, and in some varieties - 1.7 m. At the end of summer - in autumn, they acquire yellow-orange hues and retain their straw color in winter until they lie under the snow. The soddy pike belongs to the plants of the cold-season nature of growth: it starts to grow in early spring at rather low temperatures and high soil moisture. In July, when the temperature exceeds 25 ° C and the soil dries up, the pike falls into a dormant period. Closer to autumn, when it gets colder and the rains begin, she starts to grow again.

Clover

Clover is a perennial plant with well-branched, erect stems. The stem of the clover is pubescent, growing up to 50-60 cm in height. Clover leaves are oval. The flowering stems of the plant, which have trifoliate leaves, emerge from the axils of the basal leaves. The trifoliate leaves have a peculiarity: they fold at night and open only in the morning. Clover flowers are pink or red, they are collected in inflorescences - heads. The fruit of a clover is an egg-shaped bean with one seed inside. Clover bloom begins in May and lasts until September. The fruits ripen at the end of summer. Clover prefers to grow among shrubs, meadows and clearings in forests.

Alfalfa

(Medicago sativa) is a perennial herb, cultivated or wild, belonging to the legume family. The rhizome is thick, very deep. The stem is erect, numerous, glabrous or pubescent, the upper part grows up to 90 cm. Ellipsoidal leaves densely dot the stem. Small blue-violet moth flowers, collected in a brush, flowering period almost all summer. Fruit - spirally twisted beans, ripening period - late August - early September.

Sainfoin

Sainfoin is a perennial herb, the height of which reaches 30–70 cm. It belongs to the legume family. The sainfoin root is taproot, the stem is straight, its upper part is branched. Leaves are odd-pinnate, compound, formed from 15–25 small leaves. Sainfoin is distinguished by bright, beautiful flowers of pink-purple color, they are collected in clusters, the length of which can reach 20 cm. The fruit of the plant is a bean rich in protein. Flowering begins from the second year of the plant's life, sainfoin blooms from early summer to early July. Each blossoming flower does not live long - 10–12 hours. Honey plant: from one hectare, on which there are up to 500 million flowers, bee colonies can collect up to 6 kg of honey in one day. Pollen and nectar collection from sainfoin helps to strengthen bee colonies. The honey collected from this plant is transparent, fragrant and tasty, light amber, does not sugarcoat for a long time. Sainfoin is highly valued in the world of beekeeping, its qualities are taken into account when forming apiaries in the Voronezh and Rostov regions, in the North Caucasus and in the Transcaucasus. Sainfoin grows on the edges of forests, meadows, among bushes.

Delphinium

Delphinium loves open, sunny places, protected from strong winds. Many species of delphinium have a branched root system without a main rhizome, lying horizontally. Each year, the roots release young shoots that give life to new beautiful flowers. In the southern regions of Russia, the delphinium blooms in May-June, then blooms again in the fall. And in the middle lane it blooms from mid-June to late July and in autumn. However, re-flowering is only possible if you cut the stems after the first flowering. Delphinium is a very winter-hardy plant, it can withstand frosts up to 40 ° C. But thaws are a big danger for him, because his root system lies close to the surface and can easily wither away. Therefore, try not to plant a flower in those places where the first glades form in the spring.

Calendula

Calendula is a medicinal plant. Calendula blooms with beautiful orange-yellow flowers, and in addition to being used for medicinal purposes, it is widespread in decorative floriculture. In domestic pharmacology, this plant is highly valued. The flowers of the plant are yellow or orange in color, collected in inflorescences-baskets. The fruit of the calendula is an achene, slightly bent, without a tuft. Fruit on the outside of an uneven surface with spines. The plant begins to bloom in June and ends in September. The fruits ripen in October. The plant is very fond of light, but demanding on moisture and soil. It can be seen in Southern Europe, the Middle East and Central Asia. This plant blooms for a rather long time, from June to the very late autumn, almost until October. Calendula bears fruit in July, propagates by seeds, does not require special conditions for growing, and at the same time is considered a good honey plant.

Gypsophila

Perennial plant 1 m in height. The stems of the gypsophila paniculata are knotty, branched, forming an openwork spherical bush. The foliage is narrow, small, basal - lanceolate. The whole plant is gray-green. The flowers of gypsophila paniculata are small, 0.5 cm in diameter, pink or white, double and simple. Flowering occurs in July for about 45 days.

Blue cornflower (Сentaurea cyanus)

It is also sometimes called cornflower or blue cornflower, a plant native to the Mediterranean. An annual plant from 20 to 70 cm high. The leaves are whole, narrow (lanceolate), pointed, slightly pubescent. Baskets with a diameter of 2.5-4 cm, marginal flowers are funnel-shaped, in natural species they are bright blue, in varieties they can be white, pink, red. Blooms from June until frost. Propagated by sowing to a permanent place in the spring or before winter, gives self-seeding, is used to create Mauritanian lawns. British firms offer many varieties of this plant. Among them are the ‘Black Ball’ with a basket of chocolate, ‘Blue Diadem’ of a deep blue color, ‘Florence Pink’ is a compact bush with a pale pink basket.

Daisies.

Bright green daisy leaves, oblong-ovate or spatulate, are connected to a basal rosette. From several outlets, dense bushes are formed with many single double or simple inflorescences-baskets of white, red or pink color. Inflorescences according to their structure are reed and tubular. The height of the bushes does not exceed 20 cm. The flowering of the daisy is exuberant and long. It begins in early spring, in July, stops in hot weather and resumes in August. In floriculture, two types are common: the annual daisy, its height is only 10 cm, and the more common perennial daisy. The most popular varieties are: "Pomponett" - a tiny plant with inflorescences that resemble buttons. The diameter of its inflorescence is 2 cm. "Robella" - has magnificent inflorescences (diameter 5 cm) of salmon-pink color. The variety has an award - a gold medal "Fleroselect."

Saxifrage

Saxifraga (Latin Saxifraga) is a genus of perennial, rarely one- and biennial grasses of the Saxifragaceae family. Another name is "tear-grass". Saxifrage - common in temperate zones, mainly in northern latitudes, including the arctic regions. Usually these plants settle on stones and rocks, penetrating the roots into cracks and thereby contributing to their destruction. Hence the name of the genus. Saxifrage refers to undersized plants. The leaves are varied in surface texture and shape, thick and fleshy, leathery, dense, rounded and slightly elongated, they form fancy decorative rosettes. Quite large, up to 6 centimeters long, they can be of different colors: from dark green to gray-green, sometimes variegated. Flowers in paniculate or racemose inflorescences, small. The saxifrage stalks do not extend more than 50 centimeters.

Sweet pea

(Lathyrus odomtus) or fragrant rank - one of the species of the genus Chin (Lathyrus), the legume family (Fabaceae). It comes from the Eastern Mediterranean, in the wild it is found in South America, northwest Africa, in China. The stems of sweet peas are climbing, weakly branched, they rise along any support, clinging to it with antennae - modified shoots. Therefore, it is used for vertical gardening of balconies and terraces, planted around gazebos and next to fences. Flowers of fragrant ranks have an unusual structure, they look like moths. Hence the other name for this family - Moths. The flowers are distinguished by an unusually pleasant delicate aroma and have a variety of colors: from pure white to maroon through all shades of pink, there are many varieties with lilac-blue and purple flowers. The flowering of sweet peas begins in early summer and lasts a long time, usually until autumn, if seeds are removed in a timely manner - beans. The cultivation of fragrant ranks has its own characteristics. In Russia, there are many varieties that are sown in the spring directly into the ground. They grow short and bloom at the end of June. But foreign hybrids of sweet peas often grow up to 2 meters high and bloom only at the end of summer.

Bells

(Campanula) - a species of plants from the Bellflower genus, Bellflower family; a biennial frost-resistant plant with an erect stem from 50 to 100 cm high. The flowers are very beautiful, usually goblet-bell-shaped in shape, collected in large pyramidal inflorescences. The varied coloration ranges from white and pink to purple and blue. It is used in flower beds, in flower beds and for cutting. Some species, when cut, remain fresh in water for up to ten days. Perennial flowers bells are somewhat different in shape and are often inferior in growth to annuals. Bells bloom in June-July, and the flowering of perennial varieties can last until September. With the timely removal of fading inflorescences, flowering is abundant.

The main taproot is rather short, whitish, with a small number of larger primary branches, but with numerous thin roots. Stem 1 (3), 60-120 (150) cm tall, mostly erect and straight, thin, cylindrical, more often simple, branching only in the upper part (in the inflorescence), pale green, with a slight waxy coating. The leaves are very numerous, relatively spirally arranged, 2-3 cm long, 3-4 mm wide, linear or linear-lanceolate, the largest lanceolate, sharp at the apex, sessile, slightly glaucous from a washed out, relatively weakly expressed waxy coating, smooth in edge, with three veins. The inflorescence is a loose gyrus, sometimes turning into a curl, with lanceolate bracts. The flowers are relatively few in number, mostly of medium size or rather small, 1.5-2.4 cm in diameter, on rather long pedicels exceeding the length of the calyx, thickened at the apices and provided with an articulation below the thickening. Sepals 5-6 mm long, herbaceous, ovate or ovate-lanceolate to oblong-ovate, acute or shortly sharpened at the apex, with a sharp keel, with 2-5, and mostly with three veins, the inner ones are somewhat wider, white-striped bordered, at the apex along the margin, scabrous, finely ciliated. Petals 12-15 mm long, wedge-obovate, at the apex somewhat oblique, rounded or obtuse, entire or slightly crenate, smooth or slightly corrugated, blue or blue with darker veins, less often white, pink or reddish-purple, narrowed downward to white , at the base of the yellow marigold, falling early. Stamens with linear, white, dark blue filaments in the upper part; the staminate tube is short, annular; triangular staminodes, sometimes indistinct; anthers are oblong, mostly blue, occasionally yellow or orange. Ovary ovate, green; column with wedge-shaped linear stigmas, dark blue to violet. Blooms from June to July.

Chamomile

(Matricária) - a genus of flowering plants, belongs to the family of Asteraceae (Compósitae) perennial and annual herbaceous plants, or the family Asteraceae (Asteraceae) - low, often odorous grasses. Currently, there are more than 350 species of daisies, a third of which grow in Russia. Garden chamomile can be used both in group plantings and in prefabricated flower beds with other perennials. Caring for them does not present much difficulty. They prefer open, well-fertilized sunny places and sufficiently moist soils. In dry weather, they need mandatory watering. Propagated by seeds and division of rhizomes. Seeds do not need stratification; with spring sowing, seedlings appear in 18-20 days. Plants bloom in the second year, bloom from late June to autumn.

Levkoy

One-, two- and perennial herbaceous plants, sometimes dwarf shrubs. Stems are erect, 20-80 cm tall, branched, glabrous or tomentose. Leaves are oblong, lanceolate, whole or notched. The flowers are pink, white, lilac or off-yellow, clustered in racemose or spike-like inflorescences. The fruit is a pod. Seeds are flat, narrow-winged, in 1 g up to 700 pieces. Levkoy grows well in various soil and climatic conditions with sufficient soil and air moisture. Reaches the greatest decorative effect in open sunny places. Does not tolerate stagnant water and prolonged drought. Soil: prefers fertile, non-acidic, soddy loamy or soddy sandy loam soil. In the year of planting, organic fertilizers cannot be applied.

Meadow planting:

In principle, planting a meadow does not differ from planting a lawn.

The soil is pre-loosened with a walk-behind tractor or a disc harrow and leveled.

Immediately before planting, abundant watering is performed.

If a decorative composition is planted, the proposed "picture" of plants is marked. In this case, sowing is carried out from the center of the meadow to the edges.

When sowing a "wild" lawn, that is, an unplanned planting pattern, all the seeds are mixed and evenly sown (scattered) over the meadow area.

After sowing the seeds, they must be compacted with a garden roller and mulched with loose mulch with a layer of 5-7 cm.

The offered plants are rather unpretentious in their care.

During a period of severe drought, watering is necessary at intervals of one week. You can water the meadow in any way possible.

In autumn, after the seeds ripen (mid-late October), it is recommended to mow the meadow, do not remove the green mass from the meadow. After that, spread a layer of 3-5 cm of loose mulch over the meadow and leave until spring. The mulch will decompose on its own (you do not need to remove it), creating a breeding ground for the growth of the meadow.

In some cases, it is necessary to sow the seeds in order to achieve an even planting of the plants over the entire meadow area. Local overseeding occurs in the same way as the main one. Loosening the soil (in this case, it will be enough to dig up the top layer with a shovel and level it with a rake) - watering - sowing seeds - compaction - mulching.

Decorative lawns add completeness to the countryside landscape, help to link together individual elements of garden design, create a comfortable microclimate conducive to relaxation. An emerald herb carpet will serve as a worthy backdrop for the ordered forms and lines of a regular style and harmoniously complement the flowing natural outlines of the landscape. The picturesque cover can be grown from the seeds of herbaceous plants, or you can lay a ready-made roll lawn in the country with your own hands.

Self-cultivation of the sowing cover is not an exercise for the lazy. It is difficult to grow it without careful soil preparation, proper selection of grass seeds and tireless follow-up care. It is important to decide which lawn to plant in the country, taking into account its purpose and location. There are the following types:

  • parterre, or ceremonial;
  • universal, or ordinary;
  • meadow, or Moorish.

Due to its rich color and spectacular dense grass stand, the parterre cover has a high decorative effect. It is considered elite and is mainly used in the design of the entrance area of ​​the garden and central landscape compositions: flower beds, fountains and sculptures. You cannot walk on the parterre lawn, so it must be supplemented with comfortable paths made of brick or tiles.

The main criterion for choosing a site is good illumination of the site and a sufficiently deep level of groundwater. A luxurious, expensive lawn, even with constant maintenance, can be hopelessly damaged by prolonged rains or severe frosts. He is especially vulnerable in the first three years.

It is not difficult to decide which grass to plant in the country house for a parterre-type lawn: for this, the unpretentious and weather-resistant meadow bluegrass is most often used. It forms a resilient and even sod and penetrates deep into the soil with its roots. When creating ceremonial grass covers, preference is given to thin-leaved varieties: Balin, Bluegrass, Panduro, Conny, Dolphin and Sobra.

When growing an elite lawn, 1.5–2 times more seeds are used than for a regular lawn (about 30 g per 1 m²). Sometimes bluegrass is mixed in equal proportions with red fescue, white or common bent grass and perennial chaff.

Parterre lawns need careful maintenance: daily watering to a depth of at least 25 cm for a year after planting, frequent mowing, regular fertilization and oxygenation of the soil. It is important to seriously think about which lawn is better to plant in the country, if there is no time to constantly look after the parterre covering, perhaps the preference should be given to a less whimsical universal one.

This is the best type of grass cover, since you can grow a beautiful lawn in the country with your own hands from a suitable mixture of seeds both in sunny and shady areas, and in places with high humidity. Consisting of several types of herbaceous plants, a versatile lawn is ideal for decorating the main part of the garden, the space between flower beds and trees, and is great for arranging a recreation area, a children's playground and a sports ground.

An ordinary lawn for a summer residence is inferior to a parterre lawn in terms of decorative qualities, but it is much cheaper, easier to maintain, more resistant to weather whims and an unfavorable climate. You can walk on the universal cover without fear of damaging it.

Before planting a lawn in the country with your own hands, it is advisable to do a soil analysis and, taking into account its characteristics, choose suitable grass seeds. Traditionally, a mixture of equal parts of bluegrass and ryegrass is used at the rate of 15–20 g per 1 m².

For peat areas the following mixture is most suitable (per 10 m²):

Optimal composition for loamy chernozem (per 10 m²):

On calcareous soils, planting such grasses (10 m²) will give a good result:

  • esparcea - 600 g;
  • English or French ryegrass - 100 g;
  • direct fire - 80 g;
  • sweet spikelet - 15 g.

The Moorish lawn is a man-made meadow of tough grasses and low flowering plants. Its main role is decorative. Meadow cover in the country is rarely used when arranging large areas. Usually, recreation areas, rockeries, artificial reservoirs or small islands of an ordinary lawn are decorated with a bright multicolored carpet.

It is better to plant a lawn in the country house from a mixture of meadow grasses: bluegrass, bent grass, sweet bison, perennial ryegrass, wheat grass, lagurus. And to supplement the lawn with flowering annuals: forget-me-nots, delphinium, catchment, marigolds, bells, snapdragons, daisies. The next year, the seeds can be sown or turned into a versatile grass cover.

Experienced gardeners use perennial flowers when growing a Moorish lawn: crocuses, cyclomenes, tulips, blueberries, poppy, chamomile, echinacea, arnica, gentian, loosestrife. For aroma, mint, lemongrass, anise and thyme are planted. However, such a cover requires rather complex care: frequent thinning and weeding.

To preserve the decorative effect of the Moorish lawn, plants with different flowering periods are selected throughout the season. Usually seeds of 10-15 unpretentious cereals (80%) and flowers (20%) are used. 10 g of the mixture is enough for 1 m². The meadow cover is cut off only in the fall, after the seeds are dropped. Water as the soil dries up.

Ready turf - advantages and features of the device

Rolled lawns are the easiest way to add grass to your garden in a short time. To do this, it is enough to prepare and level the site and lay sod layers on it. A roll lawn can be used as early as 3-4 weeks after setting up.

High quality turf turf is grown in greenhouses and then cut with a thin layer of soil. As a rule, finished decorative coatings are 100% meadow bluegrass. Depending on the type of seed and the density of the turf, there are elite, standard and sports lawns.

Rolled herb is not cheap, but it has a number of advantages:

  • are distinguished by high decorative properties;
  • make it possible to quickly improve the site;
  • have strength and durability;
  • resistant to weather factors;
  • easy to care for.

It is important to remember that industrial turf can not be stored for a long time, therefore it is advisable to put rolls on the day of purchase. Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions will help to make the right roll lawn in the country house. The work is performed in the following sequence:

  1. Prepare the soil. For this, the site is dug up to a depth of 30 cm, while carefully removing weeds, roots and stones.
  2. They create drainage (this is especially important in low-lying areas and clayey soils). They dig a pit 40 cm deep. A 20-cm layer of a mixture of expanded clay and sand is laid on the bottom and, slightly moistened, tamped tightly.
  3. The pit is covered with earth level with the height of the site. Fertilizer is scattered over the ground and slightly buried with a rake. The site is tamped with a roller or a wide board and watered evenly using a spray nozzle, trying to avoid soil erosion.
  4. It is important to place the first panel of the rolled lawn as evenly as possible. It is laid exactly in the corner of the platform and untwisted. Subsequent rows are positioned by offsetting the roll cuts, like brickwork. The joints of the second row should be in the middle of the layers of the first.
  5. Rolled panels must not be overlapped. It is better to fill up small gaps between them with soil. Discrepancies of more than 1.5 cm are unacceptable. Excess pieces are cut off with a knife or the edge of a cleaver shovel.
  6. Before laying out the next row, the previous one is crushed with a board and continue to work, standing on it. This helps to thicken the surface and prevent the grass from being squeezed.
  7. At the end of the work, the grass cover is tamped several times with a roller and watered abundantly. Repeat watering frequently for the first three weeks. You can walk on the lawn one month after laying.

In the future, the roll cover is looked after in the same way as for the grown independently: it is watered with the help of sprinklers or spray nozzles as the soil dries up (on average, once every 10-12 days), cut when the grass reaches 10 cm to the desired height, aeration and fertilization are performed from time to time.

Careful and gentle care will help you grow a luxurious herb carpet that will transform the garden and delight you with comfort and freshness for years to come.

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You will need:

Materials (edit)

There are many types of bows and they are classified according to various parameters, including design, shape, location of the arrow and method of use. The choice of materials, in particular, depends on the latter. You can make a real onion at home from:

  • tree (the simplest way, with which we will introduce you below);
  • PVC pipes;
  • plywood;
  • paper.

For a bowstring, fishing line, twine, nylon and lavsan thread, polypropylene, nylon, kevlar are suitable. Arrows are carved from birch and pine.

Design

The straight sport bow consists of a handle with a guide groove and shoulders located on either side of it. The size of the bow and arrow should be determined by the arrow's arm span in centimeters.

Blank

Look after the preparation for the future onion on a fine day. Almost any deciduous tree is suitable for us: hazel, birch, elm, oak, yew, lemon, bamboo, but the best are ash and acacia.

Choose a strong, straight and flexible branch, the length of which is taken from the calculation of the length of the future bow plus 30-40 cm of stock. Make sure that the wood is free of knots and damage.

It is desirable to cut the stick on a frosty day at a temperature of minus 10-15 degrees.

So, you already have a blank at your disposal. The bark, by the way, does not need to be removed.

Cover the ends with oil paint and lay it upright to dry. The air in the room should not be too dry, the optimum temperature is in the range of 20-28 degrees. Lay the stick so that it dries evenly and leave it on for 2-3 months.

Shaping

The workpiece is dry and ready for further processing. We need to get a rectangular board from a log. This can be done with an ax, saw or splitting with wedges (in the case of hard rocks).
The thickness of the board corresponds to the width of the handle - about 3 cm. But if there are defects, the thickness in this place needs to be increased.

Focus on the drawings of the bow and you will succeed.

Make a marking of the side profile, separate the excess part with an ax, completing the finishing work with a sharp knife and a plane.
Then go to the front profile. In this case, you will have to show special care and accuracy so that the shoulders are equally elastic. It is forbidden to bend the workpiece at this stage, since it is very easy to spoil it.

The handle should be 3/2 of the shoulder width. The section of the onion can be almost rectangular or lenticular, depending on the original thickness of the branch.

We proceed to the stage during which the bend is formed. As a rule, in enterprises, to obtain a result, the tree is soaked in various solutions. We will not do this, but turn to the old grandfather's method of processing wood with the help of steam.

Steaming

The need for this process, first of all, is for the shoulders to become plastic and take the bend we need.

Both arms must be steamed at the same time so that further drying takes place evenly.

Hold the onion over boiling water until it begins to bend easily. Then place it in a pre-prepared slipway, in which the product will dry for 1-2 weeks. The location, number and shape of the clamps depend on the desired bow shape.


After waiting for the allotted time, the bow is taken out and recesses are cut at its ends, on which the bowstring will be attached in the future.

Bark

As you noticed, we did not touch the bark at all stages of the work. During steaming and unwillingness (in the slipway), it will begin to flake off, but some may remain.

Separate it with a wooden knife, taking care not to damage the fibers of the back of the bow. If in some place this is impossible to do, just sand it to smoothness.

The final stage

The tree, as you know, can dry out or gain moisture, which will negatively affect the properties and durability of the product. Therefore, we will saturate our shooting bow with melted fat or wax. You can also use mastic, varnish or paint.

In this case, it is important not to overdo it - the depth of impregnation should not exceed 3 mm, otherwise elasticity will suffer.

Bowstring

Let's give an example of making a bowstring from lavsan thread # 32 and twisted linen.

Make a rectangular shape from the blocks, along the edges of which, hammer in a nail. Tie a thread to one of them and wind it in a circle. With a tension force of 10 kg, 50 turns are enough for mylar thread and 5 for linen. Wind the winding tight enough so that no sagging is formed.

Tie the loose ends and divide the string into two strands. Wrap the middle parts of each of them tightly with nylon thread 8-10 cm in length.

Without removing from the bar, wrap the ends in the same way to get the loops for fastening.

Now we need to make a guide for the arrow. To do this, use a piece of foam or wood 10x20 mm in size. They fasten it in the middle so that the angle between the bowstring and the axis of the arrow is 90 degrees.


Put on the bowstring just before shooting and remove immediately afterwards.

Making arrows

Material

Take well-dried pine, spruce or birch boards 2-3 cm thick. Determine the length from the table below. It should not exceed the bend length of the bow.

There should be no knots in the wood, and the fibers should run parallel to the length of the workpiece.

You can also use more or less straight dry branches, which are cleaned until smooth and straightened by heating over coals.

Markup

Saw off the board of the required length and with a plane reduce the thickness to 1.5 cm. Mark the butt end into squares and saw it along the marks.

Then shape the workpieces into a 6-sided shape using a knife and file. After that, make them round using sandpaper. Ultimately, the shaft diameter should be no more than 7-8 mm.

Plumage

This is an optional part, but it contributes to stable flight and hitting accuracy.

It is best to take strong feathers about 10 cm long and 3 cm wide; for this, the flight or tail feathers of a goose, turkey, wood grouse and other birds will do.

Important: on one arrow there should be feathers from the same wing - right or left.

Cut each feather in half along the center of the rod, then use the wider part. We shorten the rod so that 1 cm remains until the beginning of the pile, then we cut off the feather on the other side, where the thickening decreases to 1-0.5 mm. For one arrow, we use three such feathers, so we make sure that their length is the same. From the same end, cut off 0.5 cm of pile, leaving the rod intact.

We attach the feathers to the shaft, stepping back 1 cm from the edge, and fasten them with thread on both sides at an angle of 120 degrees to each other. After that, you need to "sew" each, making stitches every 1 cm with a needle and thread near the base, trying not to break the villi. Now carefully glue this entire structure to the shaft and give the pile the desired shape.

Tip

A triangular metal plate is required, the thickness of which will be equal to the thickness of the shaft. Make a notch in it under the tail of the triangle and insert the plate there, securing it with nylon thread.

The tip can also be made from stone, glass, a nail, or not at all, simply by sharpening the end with a knife.

Buy or sew a special case in which you will store and transport your bow. For arrows, you also need to make a quiver.

Keep the instrument upright at room temperature. Avoid wet and dry places.

Use it at least once a month to prolong its performance. But do not give it to other people, as this is an individual product made exactly for your parameters.

Remember that a homemade bow is a dangerous and safety weapon. Do not shoot it in crowded places, keep it away from children and do not point it at anyone, even in jest.

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