He cannot stay in one place for a long time and constantly requires new sensations, try to channel his energy into a useful channel! Present your child velomobile!

A fidget can feel like an adult if he has his own vehicle, but not with two wheels, like a bicycle, but with four, like an electric car! The Europeans called this type of transport velomobiles, and the Dutch even called them "da-caras".

Children's velomobile is a miniature car, controlled by means of pedals. In other words, it is a muscle-driven vehicle that combines efficiency, simplicity and environmental friendliness.

We invent a velomobile

We construct a velomobile with our own hands

The idea to create a children's velomobile does not arise by chance, because the bicycle and electric vehicles sold today are not without drawbacks. In addition, their cost is sometimes so high and not justified that it is easier to create such a "toy" for a child with your own hands. A modern children's car must necessarily be collapsible, similar to a real car, and also comfortable not only during operation, but also during storage.

Children's velomobiles on sale, as a rule, have a non-separable design. Most of them represent an open frame equipped with a movable adjustable seat, a complex drive. The design is non-separable, and the machine itself is not able to overcome even the smallest obstacles. Ultimately, a full repair of such a toy is very expensive.

When creating a velomobile with your own hands, you can get rid of all the shortcomings.

Let's invent a children's velomobile!

Manufacturing features:

Advantages of a homemade children's velomobile

The most important advantage is the ability to quickly mount and dismantle (make sure by watching the video). To quickly disassemble a mini-car, you just need to disconnect the leash located on the steering gear from the top of the V-shaped frame, and then turn it to an angle of exactly 45 degrees, push it out of the support located on the crossbar.

Thanks to the chosen distance between the wheels, even in the folded position, they will not interfere with each other. "Fracturing" of a children's velomobile is carried out first around the vertical axis, and after that - around the horizontal one, with a slight downward shift.

When assembling the machine, the two frame parts (front / rear) are connected in such a way that the pin fits perfectly into the rolling bearing. Next, you need to move the latch to the leash on the steering mechanism by turning the V-shaped frame away from the pin, and then disconnect it from the frame.

Ultimately, the structure is installed on wheels. The children's velomobile is ready! It boasts good cross-country ability, and the ability to freely overcome obstacles, the height of which is equal to half a wheel! Due to its high strength, it will not need repairs.

Its small dimensions in the dismantled state, as well as its low weight (about 12 kg) allow solving all the problems that are usually associated with the transportation of a car, as well as its long-term storage in a small-sized vehicle.

You can also design a children's electric car with your own hands. Of course, the assembly process will be much more complicated and difficult to describe in words, but there are many videos on the net with step by step instructions assembling an electric vehicle.

Like a velomobile, it is better to assemble an electric car for a child not from scratch, but to use parts of a ready-made children's car. It is important to have a steering wheel, wheels, and an attractive body. If you have the main parts, you can make an electric car with your own hands in a day!

But a few weeks ago, Louis instinctively ran after the cat. Everything would be fine if it were not for the leash that was attached to the steering wheel. My bike went to the side, in the end, I ended up on the asphalt. The damage was small, but I started to worry that the incident could happen again, and the consequences could be much worse. The decision was made do by their by hand something more secure than two-wheeled bicycle, which turned out to be an insignificant obstacle for Louis.

The project will require two bicycles and metal structures. This should be understood as:

• 6 m square tubes 3.8 * 3.8cm;
• 3.6 m sq. tr. cross-section 2.5x2.5 cm;
• 1.2 m sq. tr. cross-section 1.3 x 1.3 cm;
• 1.8 m steel pipe diameter 2.5 cm;
• 1.2 m steel plate width 5 cm and thick 0.47 cm;
• Nuts, bolts, upholstery materials

I would rate this project as “moderately difficult” as it requires good welding skills as well as cutting and shaping some metal parts. In addition, you need to know how the bike is assembled and disassembled, as well as an understanding of how the derailleur works and how it is adjusted. Most of this information can be found on the internet.

Step 1: Front wheel and steering

The velomobile will consist of one front wheel and a rear axle. The pedals and chain drive will go to the front wheel. For the first homemade- this design is simple and the most economical. However, when driving, unusual sensations may arise, but this will pass over time.

Let's start with bicycle frame and gears. Using a grinder, cut off unnecessary parts from the frame. Next, we mark and cut out the "bird's beak" in the tube on which the seat is located. After that, we will bend it in such a way that it is tilted forward, and not backward, as it was originally. We will weld the seam and reinforce the bent pipe with a steel plate. First, we will make a template using thick paper, and then we will cut a wedge from a plate with a thickness 0.3 cm and weld it in place. Cut off the bottom of the support.

Saw off steering column from the pipe. Cut off a piece of square pipe 3,8 x 3.8 cm, 2.5 cm shorter in length than the steering column. Cut off one of the four sides of the pipe to make a U-shaped channel. Place it around the head tube and weld it on, filling in the gaps at the top and bottom with small pieces of steel.

Cut off upper part steering column from the front fork. Remove the seatpost from the saddle. Disconnect the seatpost and steering column butt joints. Make sure the tube and pin are straight. For alignment, insert a suitably sized pipe inside the pipe and pin. I used 13 mm a tube to slide inside the steering column, and then a long thin tube to test the pin. These parts will be connected together, therefore, for a reliable contact, we will weld a butt joint.

Note : 13mm socket is sacrificed to the cause.

Cut off the remaining "ears" of the mounting fork.

Step 2: main frame

Let's cut a pipe for the main frame 3.8 * 3.8cm... Cut the edges of the workpiece at an angle of 120 degrees at the top and bottom and at an angle of 18 degrees for the plug. The length of the top plug is approx. 10 cm... The length of the vertical pipe is about 38 cm and lower pipe 69 cm.

To keep all the lines and places of welds parallel, we use two wooden blocks and a fastening system, as shown in the photo. We weld the steering column to the upper plug of the main frame.

Step 3: front fork

We will temporarily collect front wheel and a steering column with a main frame. Note that the drive sprocket is now in the front and not in the back. For the ratchet mechanism to work, you need to turn the sprockets in the opposite direction. As shown below, the switch should be turned upside down.

The front fork is attached to the existing mounting holes on the frame. Cut the workpiece to dimensions 3.8 * 5cm from a piece of steel 0.47 cm thick, drill holes that correspond to the attachment points and screw it onto the frame.

Cut a slit at the end of a 90 cm steel pipe with a diameter of 2.5 cm and place it on a thin plate. Let's drill a hole with a diameter of 0.95 cm in the steering barrel.

Place the rod in the steering column. Match the top end of the steel pipe to the hole in the barrel, and then weld the bottom of the pipe to the steel plate. Let's remove the tube and finish welding the mounting loops. Cut off the excess parts of the plate.

Install the bottom end of the tube with the plate and then drill a 0.9 cm hole in the top of the tube to connect it in the steering rod. We use a bolt or threaded rod to attach to the steering axle. The front fork shown in the photo is finished.

Step 4: rear frame

Cut 2 pieces from a square tube 3.8 cm the length 76,2 cm and 4 pieces long 53 cm and weld them as shown in the figure.

Cut four plates 10 cm long, 5 cm wide and 0.47 cm thick. Let's drill the corresponding holes in each of the four plates. The holes must match the diameter of the axles.

Using an angle grinder, we will make cuts in each plate, the width of which corresponds to the diameter of the hole, while making them slightly wider at the beginning of the cuts.

Let's combine them, using the wheel and axle as a guide, and weld everything into place.

The tricycle can now safely stand on its own wheels.

Step 5: brakes

Rusanova Svetlana Anatolievna

This velomobile dad made for his beloved Zlatushka... You have often met our daughter in my other publications, where we make different crafts. Now in stores there are a lot of battery machines that need to be charged often, and there is no benefit from them, while the velomobile perfectly develops.

This is a worthy analogue of the usual bike, which will teach your baby to ride. The velomobile is as the name suggests, a hybrid bike and car... It is a four-wheeled vehicle that is equipped with a comfortable seat and steering wheel similar to a conventional car.

Such a vehicle cannot reach high speed, there is no need to be afraid that the child will fall out.

The design itself velomobile is that it is difficult to turn it over. It stands firmly on all four wheels, so you don't have to worry. Now daddy walks with pleasure daughter and catches admiring glances and shares his experience of how to make one yourself velomobile

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Necessary materials:

1. Bicycles for dismantling;
2. Square pipes with cross-sections (in cm) 3.8x3.8 / 1.3x1.3 / 2.5x2.5;
3. Steel pipe (2.5 cm);
4. Particleboard;
5. Upholstery materials;
6. Steel sheet;
7. Nuts, bolts and other fasteners;
8. Welding machine, grinder and other tools.

Manufacturing instruction

Step 1. Working with the steering wheel and front wheel
The design of the future vehicle simple, besides economical. The components of the velomobile are the wheel and the rear frame (axle). The bike pedals and standard chain drive are attached to the wheel. Excess elements are cut off from the frame. The work uses a grinder. A cut line is marked on the seat tube - in the shape of the letter V.

The fold seam is welded. Also, the pipe is reinforced with a wedge-shaped steel plate. It is cut according to a template from steel sheet (thickness about 0.5 cm). The steering column must be sawed off from the seat tube.
A piece is cut from a square pipe (segment 3.8x3.8 cm). It should be 2.5 cm shorter than the steering column.

One side of the pipe is cut off. The result is a segment with a deepening.

The head tube should be placed in this channel and welded for strength. The gaps are filled with small pieces of steel.

One part of the steering column can also be removed. The seatpost is removed from the saddle and its connections to the column are disconnected.

You need to make sure the tube and seat post parts are straight and then connect them. Weld the seam. A short (13 mm) pipe section is installed inside the column - for sliding.

Step 2. Working with the frame of the velomobile
The square tube is cut into pieces (10 cm smaller, 38 cm medium and 69 cm large). The edges of the workpiece are cut at an angle of 120 degrees.

When assembling the frame, it is important to keep all corners straight. For this you need bars. Using a mounting system, the handlebar column is welded to the frame plug.

Step 3. Working with the front fork
The steering column with the front wheel are assembled (temporarily).

At this point, the drive sprocket is in the front while it is in the back. The sprockets are inverted to make the ratchet work.

The front fork is attached to the original mounting holes in the frame. A 3.8x5 cm blank is cut out of a piece of steel, in which holes are drilled corresponding to the attachment points. The steel plate is attached to the frame with screws.

A 90 cm steel pipe (diameter 2.5 cm) is processed. At its end, you need to cut a gap and place the pipe on a thin plate. A hole is drilled in the steering wheel barrel. Its diameter is about 1 cm.

A rod is placed in the steering column. The end of the pipe should be aligned with the groove in the barrel. The bottom of the pipe is welded to the steel plate. After that, the tube is removed and the mounting loops are welded. The other parts of the plate must be disposed of (cut off).

The lower edge of the pipe must be installed, and a 0.9 cm diameter hole must be drilled in the upper edge. It is necessary so that the pipe is connected to the steering rod. A threaded rod is used for fastening.

Step 4. Working with the frame
The rear frame of the velomobile is welded from equal parts of a square pipe (3.8x3.8 cm). Two pieces of 76.2 cm long are welded to four pieces of 53 cm long. It turns out a square with two jumpers. Four pieces (5x10 cm) are cut from the steel plate (its thickness is 0.47 cm). Holes are drilled in all segments, which should fit in diameter to the axes. On each plate, using a grinder, you need to cut grooves - the diameter of the hole, but wider at the edges.

Using the wheel as a guide, the plates are welded to the pipes and the tricycle is placed on the wheels.

Step 5. Installing the brakes
The front brake caliper is cut from the front fork of the bicycle.

Two pieces are cut from the plate (these are the mounting plates). Equal holes are drilled in the mounting plates. All elements are secured with a brake caliper. When the brakes are in place, the plates are welded to the front fork.

Brakes and derailleur require control (cable). To make it, you need a long nut (10-24x1.9 cm), which you need to clamp and drill one side. The drill should not go into the nut completely, only 1.27 cm. Along the entire surface, the nut is cut with a grinder.

Step 6. Gear shifting
In order for the switch to work correctly, it is installed upside down on the velomobile. The mounting point moves forward 5.7 cm and 0.15 cm upward (than on the original harness). The bracket is made from two pieces of steel plate.

To mount the gears, holes with a larger and smaller diameter must be drilled on the axle. Fasteners are inserted into the smaller one - this is necessary so that the gear selector does not slip out of a predetermined position. A bracket is mounted on the axle and connected to the switch.

Step 7. Working with the bike seat
The frame is made from sq. a pipe with a diameter of 2.5 cm. Three separate sections need to be welded to make it easier to adjust the position of the seat.

I think no one will argue with the fact that the velomobile is good for health. Well, for fans of technical creativity, it is doubly useful, as it allows you to gain invaluable experience before creating more serious designs. The velomobile, which will be discussed, was designed and manufactured in the workshop of the station of young technicians (SYUT) of our city, together with the children from the circle. I must say that I had the idea of ​​creating it much earlier, and therefore I prepared the materials and most of the spare parts (in particular, the wheels) myself, at my own expense. True, the wheels and materials were mostly picked up from abandoned bicycles, so the costs were not so great.

Velomobile - two-seater, four-wheeled. The front wheels are steering, the rear wheels are driving. The crew has two pedal drives - each on its own wheel.

The frame of the velomobile is welded, two-spar scheme. However, both side members and the front cross member are made as one piece - bent out of a pipe with an outer diameter of 40 mm - from the handrail of a decommissioned city bus. The ends of the spars are bent upwards and together with the traverses welded to them serve as supports for the seat backs.

A rear cross member is welded between the seat back supports - it serves as the upper support for the suspension units (springs and hydraulic shock absorber) of the rear axle.

The front support of the seats themselves is a low portal, which is supported by its struts on both spars and also connects them. In its middle there is a handbrake handle, and at the ends of the crossbar there are gearshift levers.

The rear axle is of a rather unusual design. It is based on a closed subframe welded from the arches of the backrests of metal beds. On its sides, the drive wheel axle shafts with a three-speed block of drive sprockets are fixed in bearings.

Two-seat, four-wheeled, two-wheel drive velomobile with soft suspension of all wheels

Two-seater, four-wheeled, two-wheel drive velomobile with soft suspension of all wheels (parts pos. 7, 12, 14, 29, 30 are made of a tube with a diameter of 40 from the bus handrails) (click to enlarge): 1 - front wheel (from the "Kama" bicycle, modified ); 2 - steering fist; 3 - steering shaft (duralumin tube O20); 4 - support rack with steering shaft sleeve; 5 - pedal assembly (from a road bike, 2 pcs.); 6 - steering wheel; 7 - portal (steel pipe O40); 8 - rear suspension springs (from the "Karpaty" moped, 2 pcs.); 9 - rear wheel (from the Ural bicycle, 2 pcs.); 10 - hand brake caliper; 11 - hand brake disc; 12 - frame; 13 - steering fist; 14 - front axle beam; 15 - transverse tie rod; 16 - interwheel steering rod; 17 - steering gear (rack gear); 18 - seat; 19 - hand brake handle; 20 - drive chain (from a road bike, extended, 2 pcs.); 21 - gearshift lever (from a touring bike, 2 pcs.); 22 - longitudinal rods of the rear axle subframe (corner 35x35, 2 pcs.); 23 - cross member of longitudinal rods (steel, circle 10); 24 - kerchief (2 pcs.); 25 - rear wheel drive (2 pcs.); 26 - subframe of the rear axle; 27 - semi-axle bearing shelf (corner 35x35, 2 pcs.); 28 - hand brake caliper rack; 29 - traverses of seat backs (2 pcs.); 30 - rear cross member; 31 - rolling axis of the subframe; 32 - hydraulic shock absorber (from the "Verkhovyna" moped); 33 - seat base (duralumin, sheet s 1.5, 2 pcs.); 34 - seat lining (foam rubber, sheet s30, 2 pcs.); 35 - cover (nylon fabric, 2 pcs.); 36 - bracket for fastening the seat base (steel, sheet s1, 4 pcs.); 37 - fastening the seat base (bolt M6, 4 pcs.); 38 - hub bushing with flanges rear wheel; 39 - screw M12x30 with a washer for securing the rear wheel; 40 - threaded bushing M10 (2 pcs.); 41 - axle tip (bolt М10, 2 pcs.); 42 - washer (nylon s3, 4 pcs.)

Rear wheel drive (click to enlarge): 1 - rear wheel hub-hub; 2 - subframe of the rear axle; 3 - bearing No. 203; 4 - bearing housing No. 203; 5 - semiaxis; 6 - bearing housing No. 202; 7 - bearing No. 202; 8 - block of asterisks; 9 - bearing No. up to 201; 10 - anti-dust washer; 11 - ratchet; 12 - the body of the block of sprockets; 13 - spacer distance ring; 14 - retaining ring; 15 - locking sleeve; 16 - nut М12; 17 - dog; 18 - returnable spring; 19 - pin; 20 - bearing shelves; 21 - cover; 22 - bump stop

The parking brake disc is mounted (welded) on the left axle shaft. Service brakes are caliper and act on the front wheels. The subframe is connected to the frame (more precisely, to the portal) by means of a swinging axle and two oblique levers made of an equal angle corner No. 2.5.

The front wheel suspension is independent on springs. The springs are placed in the steering knuckle bushings. The suspension travel is small, and it only absorbs small bumps in the road. Therefore, to soften the impact from larger irregularities on the axle, on both sides of the bushings, soft rubber bumpers (thick washers) are also installed.

The rear wheel suspension is "semi-independent". The stretcher is suspended on springs (from the "Karpaty" moped) with a hydraulic shock absorber from the "Verkhovyna" moped. The wheels of the car are different. The front ones are from the Kama bicycle, the rear ones are from the Ural bicycle. But both are redesigned: they have been replaced by hub-hubs with longer ones (twice).

It should be noted that assembling the wheel is not an easy task, and a jig was made to facilitate this operation. A circle with a diameter equal to the rim of the wheel was cut out of a sheet of plywood, and four supports-stops were fixed along its circumference with a height equal to the part of the sleeve protruding beyond the rim. Then the new (elongated) sleeve was secured with a bolt with a spacer in the center of the plywood circle and the wheel was equipped with spokes - first the spoke was inserted into a hole in the hub flange, and then its end was inserted into a hole in the rim and baited with a slight stretch. After installing all the spokes, the wheel was removed from the conductor and the spokes were finally tightened with a check for the absence of a "eight" in the wheel.

The front wheels are swivel. Steering homemade. It consists of a "steering wheel", a tubular shaft and a rack-and-pinion steering gear with a transverse tie rod. The rack and rod end are connected by a ball joint. The other end of the rod is connected to the steering knuckle lever of the right wheel, and from it to the left wheel there is one more - the interwheel steering rod. The front wheels are also equipped with caliper service (travel) brakes.

The drive of the velomobile is pedal. The driver and passenger have their own, three-speed, independent. Three gear speeds are sufficient for traveling over any rough terrain. But it should be admitted that with the mass of an empty velomobile of 55 kg, it is difficult for one person to pedal even at the lowest speed when going uphill.

The pedal assemblies are cut assembled from old road bike frames and welded at a convenient distance from the seats to the side members. The rear axle three-speed sprockets are homemade, and only the sprockets themselves are used from a touring bike. Homemade and drive chain tensioner switch.

Steering rack and pinion mechanism (click to enlarge): 1 - rack; 2 - bushing (bronze); 3 - mechanism body; 4 - gear wheel; 5 - nut М6; 6 - cover; 7 - ball pin; 8 - bolt М4 (4 pcs.); 9 - lock nut М12; 10 - threaded tip; 11 - draft (pipe Ø16)

Front wheel steering knuckle: 1 - wheel spoke; 2 - hub-bushing; 3 - bearing No. up to 201 (2 pcs.); 4 - M10 nut with washer; 5-axis; 6 - bearing No. up to 202; 7 - nut М12; 8 - bushing (bronze, 2 pcs.); 9 - bushing of the front axle beam; 10 - spring; 11 - front axle beam; 12 - bump stop (rubber washer, s5); 13 - axis; 14 - bracket; 15 - washers

Conductor for wheel assembly (click to enlarge): 1 - base (s10 plywood); 2 - spacer sleeve (4 pcs.); 3 - wheel rim; 4 - wheel speed; 5 - bushing; 6 - sleeve flange (2 pcs.); 7 - bolt М10; 8 - washer (2 pcs.); 9 - nut М10

Crew seats are homemade. Their base, attached at four points to the frame elements, is made of 1.5 mm thick duralumin sheet. The base is lined with a foam mat covered with a cover made of bright nylon fabric.

On a long journey, I usually took a plastic cape, which covered other necessary things that were packed in the trunk. The trunk was a mesh stretched between the spars and the front axle beam in the bow of the crew (not shown in the drawing, but clearly visible in the photograph).

I also note that I used a household welding machine to connect various frame elements and suspensions into a single structure, and most of the small rotation parts (axles, bushings, etc.) were turned on a small school lathe.

I confess that in addition to traveling on business, I used the velomobile for two seasons (during the warm season) for commuting to work and back home. In addition, on weekends he made trips to nature with his wife or brother.

After two years of operation, the D-4 engine was installed on the velomobile, and specifically on its rear left wheel, and its other "life" began as a "motor vehicle". It is this version of the velomobile converted into a motorcycle crew that is shown in the photo.