For a long time, 1 1/8″ was the main head tube size in the bicycle market, but as time goes on, 1 1/8-1.5″ Tapered has become the new standard for several years.
If you bought your bike three or four years ago (or later), then most likely you have an old type of headset, and it’s not easy to install a new fork with a tapered stem.
This applies to those who planned to upgrade their simple imitator fork to a decent air one over time. Nowadays, the leading manufacturers of bicycle shock absorbers have almost completely switched to new standard Tapered, and it became difficult to buy a suitable option.
More precisely, the old standard 1 1/8″ forks are still on sale, but they are mostly old models, and the choice is very small, while the prices for new options with a Tapered stem can be cheaper. This was already the case with the 1″ headset size, forks under that standard first became a shortage, and then exotic.
But if then it was simply physically impossible to insert a thicker stem of a new fork into the old head tube, now everything is much simpler - a fork with a 1 1/8-1.5″ tapered stem can be put into a regular 1 1/8″ head tube. I will write about this a little lower, but for now let's talk about why the size of the steering wheel changes in general.
The 1″ size left the scene at one time for the same reason - a small diameter pipe does not give acceptable rigidity in handling - the fork “walks” with active braking and taxiing, and the more the rider weighs, the more it feels.
The steerer stem size of the new forks remains the same 1 1/8" at the top while the bottom has been enlarged to 1.5". The larger diameter of the stem and head tube gave the necessary rigidity.
Is it necessary for a simple skater - perhaps not, in my opinion, he does not ride a bicycle in such modes, when the lack of rigidity of the steering rod can be clearly felt. Therefore, we will consider this to be the next marketing ploy for the main market of mountain bikes.
Although I will say that for athletes and those who ride hard and aggressively, the new size turned out to be the topic - especially in combination with the 15mm axle in the front hub, the bike began to behave more predictably.
Tapered steerer fork
However, no matter how hard marketers try to put us on new bikes because of the impossibility of upgrading, there is a way out. At least one I know of is for owners of bikes with semi-integrated 44mm headsets (a very common headset).
So, if you want to put a tapered steerer fork in your frame with a conventional headset, then this one can help you wonderful steering wheel from NukeProof.
The top cup is regular 1 1/8, but the bottom cup is 1.5 outside, and it all fits into a regular cylindrical head tube. The main condition is that your bike must have a head tube specifically for a semi-integrated head tube with an internal size of 44mm, ZS (ZeroStack) standard.
I know for a lot of cyclists head tube standards are a dark forest, but if you want to upgrade your forks, you have to figure it out, it's easy.
What are the steering columns on a bicycle
In general, there are a lot of standards for steering, I will describe only a few of the most common among mountain bikes.
Semi-integrated ZeroStack (ZS) headset
It is easy to distinguish this type of steering wheel - between the plastic protection and the steering cup you will see a metal insert - this is the cup where the bearing lies. In the picture below, the cup is red.
In the steering cup, under the cups (top and bottom), seats are machined, where they are pressed. Bearings, open ball or closed industrial, are inserted into the cups, and all this is clamped by offset through spacer rings.
There is also a similar design, I don’t even know exactly what it’s called, cups are also pressed into the head tube, but unlike the ZS, the bearings are not hidden inside the head tube, but are located outside, which is why the diameter of the pipe is smaller than the diameter of the cups.
Integrated steering
This type of steering differs from the previous one in that there are no cups - seats for cartridge bearings are machined right in the steering cup itself.
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I know there are other ways to put a tapered fork on a regular frame, at least I've heard of a Cane Creek lower head tube that accepts a 1.5″ tapered stem.
Also, if there is a need to put a fork with a regular 1 1/8 stem in a frame with a tapered head tube, then there are adapters, but they didn’t come across my eyes, who knows, write in the comments.
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For a long time in the bicycle market, the 1-1/8" was considered the standard headgear size. Nothing lasts forever, and for several years now a new 1-1/8 - 1-1/2" tapered tube, which is also called Tapered, has been gaining momentum. Buying a bike a few years ago means it has an old standard fork. A fork with a conical stem will not just stand up. This kind of problem worries cyclists who intend to eventually upgrade a simple fork to something more modern.
Now the best manufacturers Almost all tapered forks are produced. Which can create additional difficulties with the acquisition of a suitable option. Of course, 1-1/8" plugs can still be found on the shelves. However, they are quite old models, and the prices for Tapered standard plugs are often higher. Moreover, it can be difficult to choose due to the small assortment.
In the same way, the situation has developed with regard to the headset size 1 ". Forks gradually moved into the category of scarcity, and then began to be perceived as a rare and unconditional exotic in its purest form. Previously, it was impossible to put a thick stem in the old-style headset due to the fact that the fork of the new standard has a wider steerer. Much easier now. A tapered steerer fork can fit in a standard 1-1/8" headset, but there are tricks. First, consider the reasons for changes in the diameter of the rod.
Reasons for switching to a tapered steering
Headset size 1 "disappeared for a reason. The small diameter pipe had low rigidity, the bike felt bad. Active braking and steering made the fork walk. With a greater weight of the cyclist, this was felt even more. bigger size provided the necessary rigidity of control. Some, however, continued to "reinvent the wheel": 
And the increase in the lower part of the steering cup made it possible to achieve greater distribution load, and accordingly the bearings now last longer. Is there a need for a tapered steerer for the casual hobbyist? Unlikely. Extreme riding with relaxed riding is useless, there are no shortcomings in speed control, a little stiffness is of little concern. Another thing is the athletes who really benefited from the innovation.
Installing a new standard fork in a conventional headset
It is simply impossible to switch to a new standard and most have to change frames. But in this situation, you can find a way out. In any case, this is possible for bicycles with a semi-integrated headset with a cup size of 44 mm. It is worth remembering that if the internal dimensions of the glass are less than 44 mm, nothing will come of it. You can try, but it will take time and effort, and it is not very clear what will happen to strength. 
If it becomes necessary to install a fork with a tapered stem, a NukeProof headset can be used. It best fits into a cylindrical glass. It is only important that the bike has a headset designed for a semi-integrated headset of a certain size. For many beginners, the features of the steering are a mystery behind seven seals. But the issue can be sorted out.
Features of bicycle steering columns
Steering columns are very diverse in execution. When mountain bikes this is how it works. Semi-integrated helms are easy to recognize. If a cup is additionally inserted in the head tube, then we have a semi-integrated head tube. Bearings can be open or closed. All this requires clamping. Integrated headsets do not require cups. Seats for bearings are machined right in the glass. That's where the bearing cartridges are placed. Example of a semi-integrated helm: 
There are many other possibilities for installing a new standard fork on a conventional bicycle frame. With some time and effort, you can always find a suitable adapter to install a fork with a tapered stem into the frame. But isn't it easier, in this case, to replace the frame?
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The material was prepared on the basis of an article by experts from the BikeRadar portal.
Currently, a large number of forks are presented on the bicycle market, differing primarily in the amount of travel, the ability to handle strong and weak shocks, stiffness and weight. And we have not even touched on the issue of price, which can vary from several thousand rubles to several tens of thousands.
The acquisition cost is not small, so it is especially important to understand what you should pay attention to in the first place.
What should you think about before buying a new fork?
And actually the very first question when choosing a fork: how much travel do you need. All other things being equal, the longer the travel, the softer the fork will be able to handle shocks. However, long forks, in turn, can already begin to have problems with torsional rigidity.
Changing the fork travel by 10mm will move about 1 degree, which in turn will affect the stability and handling of the bike. Always check the maximum fork travel recommended by the manufacturer for your frame. Installing a longer travel fork than expected will result in additional load on the frame and any damage in this case will not be covered by the warranty. When replacing a fork, it is better to choose with the same stroke as the model installed on the bike by the manufacturer.
It should also be borne in mind that some models of forks provide the ability to adjust the amount of travel. As a rule, in such forks there are several travel options available, allowing you to adjust the behavior of the bike to your preferences, or two extreme options (maximum and minimum travel).
The photo above shows a fork. Suntour Axon for cross-country with carbon pants and a gorilla.
Budget
Next on the priority list when choosing a new fork is the budget available to purchase. Unfortunately, there aren't many forks on the market today that offer soft performance and light weight for a reasonable price. Budget models tend to weigh quite a lot and also provide less control in large impacts or a series of small bumps due to the use of simpler dampers.
If we talk about forks, the cost is up to 15,000 rubles, then as the price increases, you will see an equally real difference in the work of the forks. With budgets over 15,000 rubles. the choice should be approached already based solely on sports ambitions, as well as the level at which you want to ride a bike and / or perform in competitions. However, even budget models for last years began to work much better and weigh less than before.
The control
If you are looking at forks with longer travel (longer than 120mm), then you need to understand that the longer the travel, the less torsional stiffness of the fork design and the feeling of control. Damping quality comes to the fore in such forks. On such a fork, it will be useful to have at least a rebound adjustment, which is responsible for how quickly the fork returns to its original position after it has been deployed. Some advanced forks also have compression adjustment, which controls how the fork handles large and small obstacles.
Compression adjustment on some models can be presented at 2 levels: low-speed compression (responsible for the behavior of the fork during braking, cornering and pedaling) and high-speed (responsible for the operation of the fork on landings after big jumps and during sharp strong blows). However, these settings will only be useful if you already have a decent cycling experience and understand what to expect from them.
If you're willing to spend hours tweaking and testing your bike's suspension until you're convinced it's perfect, then there's definitely a point in chasing the full range of settings. If you want to put a fork once and not think about anything else and not worry, then there is no point in looking for the most expensive and technically complex fork.
Strength/weight
When choosing a new fork, in addition to the amount of travel and the number of adjustments you want, you also need to decide what margin of safety you need. After all, taking a fork that is too extreme with a long travel, or a dirt jumping fork with 100 mm travel, you will just ride daily. excess weight which you will never benefit from. A lighter fork with stiffer travel is ideal for cross-country and steep climbs, while a long-travel “plush” model is best suited for lovers of long descents. Once again, the fork should be selected based on the capabilities of the frame (here you need to follow the manufacturer's recommendations) and your sporting ambitions.
Compatibility
Many modern fork models already use a tapered stem (1.125" top tube diameter, 1.5" bottom tube diameter). This feature should be taken into account when choosing, because. a fork with a tapered stem cannot be installed in a frame with a classic straight head tube, but vice versa - it can. You also need to pay attention to the standard of dropouts (that part of the fork in which the wheel is fixed): 9 mm eccentric, 15 mm hollow axle, 20 mm hollow axle.
Fork anatomy
Crown- for most modern bicycles single-crown forks are installed. However, long-travel downhill models are usually produced with a double crown to increase the torsional stiffness of the structure.
Stock- This top part fork (pipe), which is inserted into the head tube and fixed with a stem and an anchor. Most of the fork stems are aluminum, but the most expensive racing versions can also be found in carbon fiber. Most of the new forks available today come in both tapered (more stiff) and straight steerer configurations, so buyers can easily find the right model for their frame.
Spring- it can be presented both in the form of a classic steel spring in one of the legs of the fork, and in the form of an "air spring" (chamber with air under pressure). Air versions - they are lightweight and easy to adjust, but the cost of such forks is higher. If we talk about a metal spring, then it is cheaper to manufacture, heavier, but at the same time it shows excellent efficiency in processing small irregularities. Some forks even use combinations of air and metal springs, but these days it's much more common to see a fork with 1 type of spring.
Legs and pants These are the moving parts of the fork. In one of the legs, as a rule, there is an air or steel spring, and in the other - oil. Fork legs in recent times become thicker, especially on long-stroke and extreme versions. This allows you to get more torsional rigidity. Also, depending on the manufacturer and model of the fork, the coating of the legs varies (which allows them to move inside the pants with minimal friction. There are special seals at the junction of the legs and pants that prevent dirt from entering the fork.
Damper- important element, which controls the course of the fork (speed and smoothness of operation). It is a kind of filter with a different combination of holes and cavities through which oil passes. The damping adjustment, which was already discussed above in this article, occurs just by changing the width of the holes and, as a result, the speed of oil passing through them. The operation of the fork damper is determined by the settings for compression (reaction of the fork to impact) and rebound (speed of return of the fork after it has been actuated in starting position). The high-speed compression adjustment is responsible for handling large obstacles or landings after high drops and jumps. Low-speed compression adjustment helps tune the fork for optimal cornering, minimal pedaling bounce, and compensation for braking stress. Generally, the number of adjustments available varies by fork level and manufacturer. Thus, on budget models, you will most likely find preload and rebound adjustments.
Axis- currently forks are available with eccentrics and hollow axles with a diameter of 15 or 20 mm. The last two types significantly increase the torsional rigidity of the fork and, as a result, the accuracy of bicycle control. In addition, thick hollow axles are safer to operate than eccentrics. But the problem is that such forks and the corresponding wheels for them are noticeably more expensive than their counterparts on eccentrics.
Your steering wheel is worn out, but you do not know how to find a suitable replacement? In this article, we will cover the main aspects that will help you buy a suitable replacement. Remember that the simplest, most precise and most effective way to find out which steering you need is to check with the manual for your frame.
The article addresses the following questions:
Types of steering
There are several types of steering, differing in the seat in the frame. You can usually tell which steering wheel you have just by looking at it.
With remote cups ( EU)
Usually such steering wheels are marked with the inscription EU, from English External Cup - external cup. Often such helmsmen are calledTraditional , that is, the traditional. Headsets with outrigger cups are typically found on bikes with 1” or 1”-1/8 forks. This headset allows you to use a larger bearing and larger cups in a narrow head tube, which positively affects its wear resistance. Due to the high cups, the disadvantage of this headset is the need to use a fork with a longer stem, and the effect of such a headset on the geometry of the bike (the distance from the bottom of the frame to the crown of the fork increases). Inside there can be bulk, separator and industrial bearings. Headset cups are pressed into the frame.
Semi-integrated helms ( ZS)
Cup markingZS, from English Zero Stack - zero piling up. Also calledIntegral. In such steering, the bearing and cup are inside the steering tube. Handlebars of this type allow you to set the stem lower and practically do not affect the geometry of the bike. Industrial bearings are used inside. Headset cups are pressed into the frame.
Integrated steering ( IS)
MarkingIS, from English Integrated Headset - integrated steering. You can see the name integrated . In fact, the role of the cup here is performed by the steering glass. Industrial bearings are inserted inside. The advantages of this standard are the minimum weight and no problems with installation.
Tapered headsets
Also calledTapered . These headsets are made specifically to fit tapered steerer forks. Check it out if you want to know a little more. The steering tube for frames of this standard resembles a “pear”. Everything would be fine, but different manufacturers make different seats for the lower cup, Trek has one standard, Scott / Lapierre has another, and Giant has a third.
Dimension and compatibility
Alas, but appearance is just the tip of the iceberg. In order not to miscalculate with the steering wheel, you need to measure the seat and cup of the old steering wheel. This can be done with a caliper. The images below show the most up-to-date data on the dimensions and compatibility of the headsets.
findings
This variety of standards brings not only headache when choosing a headset, it also allows you to install a fork with a 1”1/8 stem in a 1.5” glass, or put a 1”1/8 stem in a Tapered, that is, it gives a good place to maneuver when choosing a fork.
The most current standard is now considered a semi-integrated steering, so if you are going to get a new steering, then it makes sense to look at this particular type.