To make a homemade crossbow you will need:
* A block of non-resinous wood species, size 700x10x40 mm.
* The second leaf spring of the car Moskvich.
* Profile pipe 50x50x2 mm. 10 cm long.
* Profile pipe 15x15x1.5 mm.
* A small piece of sheet metal 2 mm.
* Metal stainless steel 4 mm thick. and 0.5-1 mm. (for the descender).
* Steel corner 50x50x4 mm. 35 cm long.
* Bar D = 8 mm. length 40 cm.
* Bolts with nuts D = 8
* Stainless steel molding from the VAZ-2106 door 2 pcs.
* Metal rollers 2 pcs., Glass lifting mechanism from the door of a VAZ car.
* Rope D = 3 mm. 3 m long, two terminal loops.
* Epoxy resin, wood stain, wood varnish for outdoor use.
* Two small springs (tension).
* A dozen nails for roofing material, one nail dvuhsotka, tube D = 6 mm., Small washers.

We will use the following tools:
*Welding machine.
* Hand circular saw.
* Electric drill with adjustable speed, carbide drills for metal D = 3, 5, 8, 10 mm.
* Grinder, cutting discs for metal, grinding discs for wood.
* Keys, pliers, screwdriver, vise, narrow chisel, knife.
* File, sandpaper.
* Goggles.

Item 1. Making a stock.

Take a well-dried wooden block, mine was made of birch, sketch a bed on it. We make each stock size for ourselves (for our height), and the stock, depending on the length of the arrows that you will use. I use 440 mm arrows, but I had to save money on the stock, I left only 300 mm, the total length turned out to be 740 mm, I did not dare to do it anymore.

We will draw a marking for the selection of the guide, for the feathering of the boom, width 5 mm, depth 10 mm.

With the help of a circular saw, cut out the groove to the full length, to the end of the trigger (lock).

It should look something like this.

Using a drill D = 12 mm. select the cavity under trigger, we level the ledges with a chisel and a knife. We drill a hole for the trigger, grind it with a chisel and a knife.

Item 2. Making a lock or trigger.

Let's take the "nut" type as the basis of the castle. To prevent anything from rusting, we will use stainless steel, take a sheet with a thickness of 4-5 mm, if we cannot find one, make a type-setting of several sheets glued together and riveted. We draw the shape of the parts on the metal.

With the help of a cutting disc and a grinder, we cut out according to the marking of the workpiece.

In the center of the "nut" we will drill a hole for the axis of rotation D = 6 mm.

We process all sides with a file.

We sand with sandpaper, achieving a completely smooth surface.

It should look something like this.

We grind the rest of the castle elements, whispered.

I lengthen the trigger with two thin sheets of stainless steel, fix it on homemade rivets.

On the grinder we achieve the desired shape of the workpieces.

We make a case from a thin sheet of metal trigger.

We drill three holes D = 2.5 mm in the sear body, one for the mounting axis and two for mounting the springs.

Reattach the trigger spring into place.

Let's see how the parts become cocked on the table.

And as after the shot.

We attach one side of the case to the inside of the mechanism and drill in place of the hole for all the axles.

From a dvuhsotka nail, 6 mm in diameter, we will make an axis for the "nut".

Saw off the sharp end of the nail.

We measure the length of the future axis, saw off.

From thin nails for roofing material, we will make the rest of the rivet axles. Using a grinder, remove the ebb from the nail heads.

They will now adhere well to the body.

Install the sear on the axis in the body, use the intermediate washers.

Saw off the extra length of the nail, leaving 1 mm each. on both sides for rolling.

Using an anvil, roll the end of the axle with a hammer.

We drill a hole for the axle with a spacer, for attaching the spring sear.

From a suitable tube, saw off the spacer sleeve onto this axis.

We move to the side one side of the body.

We install the axle, bushing and hook the spring.

Putting the halves of the case together.

Saw off the excess length, leaving a protrusion of 1 mm. under the hammer.

Let's roll.

Now you can put the largest rivet pin of the lock. We combine the holes.

Let's take the previously measured and sawed off axis D = 6 mm., Immediately with a little knocking hammer on one side.

We put in place.

And we will roll over too, the main thing is not to overdo it, so as not to jam the movable mechanism inside.

Item 3. Installation of the lock mechanism in the stock.

If something prevents the lock from sitting well in place, we modify it with a chisel or knife. After installation, we check how the trigger goes.

If everything is fine, you can drill holes for the mounting screws and screw them into place.

Now we need decorations from the VAZ-2006 door, they are also made of stainless steel, which is very good. To give them additional rigidity, epoxy resin was poured inside.

After complete hardening, in a day, we will drill four holes D = 3 mm in each, for fastening screws.

With a large drill we will make the recesses for the heads of the self-tapping screws so that the bowstring cable does not catch on when it slides along it.

Use fine emery paper to polish the holes to remove any burrs that damage the cable.

We install the finished guides on the bed.

We make sure that the screws do not go through in thin places.

We check that the lock goes without hooks on the guides.

Item 5. Making an arch or shoulders.

From the same donor doors, we extract the rollers of the glass lifting mechanism with the help of a grinder.

From them we will make blocks for the shoulders, and the arc itself from the second leaf of the spring, an old Moskvich car.

We will make pads for attaching the spring to the stock.
For this, from a corner of 50x50 mm. we will cut out the constituent elements in order to assemble by welding, here is such a mount (block).

We will process the welded seams with a grinder. Let's drill the fixing holes D = 10 mm. under the bolts.

According to the finished sample and the dimensions of the resulting block, we make grooves for fastening in the bed. Trying on the landing, achieving a tight approach and attachment. According to the estimated position of the future bowstring, we outline and make a through groove in the sidewall of the stock, 70 mm long. 10 mm wide, the lower bowstrings will go here.

Bend and weld the leg brace (stirrup).

Ears for blocks.
From a profile pipe 50x50 we will make lugs for attaching the rollers-blocks to the arc (spring).

The most difficult thing in making the spring arch itself at home is to drill holes in it. It is necessary to drill with a drill at low speeds so that the drill does not burn, constantly use water. If possible, drill with drills of different diameters, from thin to thick in increments of 0.5-1 mm., Constantly sharpen the tool.

We attach the brackets to the short M8 bolts, grind off the caps.

We fasten the spring to the block with two M8 bolts, followed by small welding along the edge of the attachment.

Now you need to open the bed with varnish and dry it.
We install the block with an arc on the bed, we plant it with a hammer for a tight fit of the metal-tree.

Insert and tighten the bolts on the M8.

From long M10 bolts we will make axle bolts reduced in length with a short thread for blocks.

Take a tube from the anchor and make spacer sleeves for the axes of the blocks out of it.

Let's drill holes D = 10 mm in the ears. to install blocks. Install the rigid loop ends on the cable.

We install a block with a cable on one side of the shoulder. Do not tighten the nut too much so as not to jam the rotation of the roller.

In the nut and bolt we drill a hole for the stud.

We install the hairpin and tighten it with a nut in the direction of unscrewing.

We push the cable through the hole in the bed and do the same with the installation of the roller on the other side of the shoulder.

Clause 6. Top part castle.

From a profile pipe 15x15 mm. saw off two pieces of 120 mm. From sheet metal, we cut out two (G) shaped blanks, one rectangular plate (to the top) and a triangle (to the back) with a grinder.

We weld all the parts together, we clean the welded seams with a grinding disc, so that we get a kind of one-piece part.

From the old folding steel meter, we make an elastic boom holder.

The photo shows the mounting bolts for the telescopic sight rail.

The same is true, only the bolts also clamp the boom holder at the same time.

The sight rail itself (dovetail) is made of the same sheet metal 2 mm.

A square lining is visible along the optics rail to raise back part and thus tilt the sight downward for correct aiming at a target beyond 25 m.

We install the lock bracket on the stock and drill holes for fastening, self-tapping screws and an M6 bolt.

We tighten the small self-tapping screws so that they do not go out into the feathering channel of the arrow.

We tighten the self-tapping screw on the back.

Additionally, we drill the hole and install the last bolt.

Installing the optical sight.

Hunting Crossbow - Enough effective weapon, which, if necessary, can serve as a worthy replacement for a rifle. The main advantage of the weapon is the noiselessness of firing. Therefore, in the course of its use, it is rather difficult to scare the beast.

Design features

What does a hunting crossbow consist of? The photos presented in this material allow you to see that the following components can be distinguished in it:

1. The body is the main power unit, which receives loads when lowering the bowstring. Serves as the basis for the installation of functional parts.
2. Pads are part of the structure for installing bowstring tension arcs.
3. The stock is a part of a crossbow that is used to place an arrow.
4. A bowstring is a functional part that serves to set in motion the projectiles used.
5. The shoulders are an elastic structural element that gives off energy when the bowstring is pulled.
6. The stirrup is a part that facilitates the loading of the crossbow.
7. The trigger mechanism is a device due to which the lock is opened and the bowstring is released when fired.
8. Sight - mounted on a crossbow to facilitate targeting.

Hunting crossbow with wooden shoulders

It is the simplest design. As follows from the definition, the shoulders here are made of wood. Such a crossbow cannot be called a model of reliability. Products in this category are frankly short-lived and therefore are not in very high demand. Most often, such a hunting crossbow is used as a collection, decorative weapon.

Metal arched crossbow

An extremely common option. Hunters pay attention to such crossbows because they demonstrate high power when firing. Hunting bows and crossbows with metal arcs are suitable not only for training, but also for use in the field when tracking prey. For manufacturing, both solid arcs and composite structures are used, which are assembled from several symmetrical parts.

Recursive Crossbow

The classic version with curved shoulders. Such a hunting crossbow is an extremely easy-to-use and easy-to-use device. It has small dimensions and improved performance. Easy to disassemble and transport.

Recursive crossbows contain reinforced shoulders, the pulling force of which can reach about 50 kg. This, in turn, opens up the opportunity for hunting small and large game.

Block crossbow

The design includes a whole system of eccentrics, thanks to which the process of loading the weapon is facilitated and the acceleration of the arrow is provided. Compared to recursive models, the block hunting crossbow is more compact. The power figures are also at their best here.

Small dimensions are provided by the installation of short arcs. The use of this solution contributes to the easy passage of the owner of the weapon of the areas covered with thickets and bushes.

The characteristics of a block-type hunting crossbow provide a simple bowstring platoon and insignificant recoil, which is achieved due to the rational distribution of the force vector.

type

• due to their reduced dimensions, they are extremely convenient for transportation weapons;
• have high power and can hit targets at both medium and long distances;
• are less destructive force compared to block systems, however, they throw arrows at a higher speed;
• in addition to arrows, they can release darts, harpoons, metal balls.

Sights

The main feature of crossbow shooting is a significant displacement of the aiming line. In other words, after the shot is fired, the projectile begins to gravitate rather quickly to the ground. Therefore, it is advisable to install optics with a special crossbow net on such weapons. For effective aiming at the target, it is enough to equip crossbows with optical sights with a 4x zoom.

Some hunters prefer collimator systems, which are also quite effective. Moreover, this option makes it possible to hunt both during the day and evening time days. Reflex sights are extremely convenient to use when aiming at moving targets.

DIY hunting crossbow

Having decided on the necessary parameters and characteristics of the future weapon, it is worth moving on to the development of the corresponding drawing. As a sample, you can use a ready-made scheme or draw up the latter yourself. Be that as it may, a do-it-yourself hunting crossbow will eventually have to be customized.

During the preparation of the drawing, it is worth focusing not only on personal wishes, but also taking into account the availability necessary materials, proceed from their cost, processing complexity.

How to make a hunting crossbow with your own hands? Usually, to begin with, a bed is prepared, on which the shoulders, stirrup, guide, and trigger are subsequently attached. Difficult for self-made arcs are the element. Therefore, in some cases, it is better to purchase them ready-made.

They will help to make hunting drawings, examples of which are shown in the photos below.

Frame

The base on which the bed and shoulders of the product are fixed is the body. It is advisable to cut it out of a metal blank with a thickness of about 2.5-3 mm.

In the central part of the body and at the end, the crossbow stock is fixed with bolts. The use of such a solution contributes to the rapid assembly of weapons to bring them into combat condition and disassembly during transportation.

A stirrup is welded to the body at the bottom. The latter provides the ability to hold the crossbow with the foot while pulling the bowstring. It is recommended to use wire 6 to 8 mm in diameter as the material for the stirrup.

Shoulders

The material for the manufacture of a structural element can be an automobile spring. In such metal arms, semicircular bolt recesses are made, with which the part will be screwed to the body.

The widespread opinion is that the use of metal springs as a basis for the manufacture of shoulders is a rather dangerous solution. And in fact, when using a homemade crossbow in a low ambient temperature, the probability of breaking the part increases, especially in the attachment points. Such cases are accompanied by the release of small fragments. Therefore, you should apply the idea at your own peril and risk.

Blocks

Ready-made drawings of a hunting crossbow often include block devices. The latter facilitate tension and give an advantage in strength. It is easier to bring such a crossbow into a combat state than by simply connecting the ends of the bowstring with the ends of the shoulders. Moreover, during the descent, the starting speed of the arrow increases, which is reflected in the increase in the range of the weapon. The main disadvantage of installing a block system is the complexity of manufacturing and an increase total weight crossbow.

Bowstring

As a bowstring, you can use a metal cable with a diameter of about 2-3 mm. A thicker bowstring will be more difficult to attach to the weapon, and a thin one will stretch as the product is used.

To fix the string at the ends of the shoulders, it is enough to make a regular loop. It is better to place pieces of leather or any other dense material under the cable bindings. This solution allows you to avoid chafing the bowstring in contact with metal shoulders.

Lodge

For the manufacture of a part, you can use an easy-to-process wooden blank in the form of a board with a thickness of about 30 mm. It is worth noting that, despite the high strength indicators, oak is not very suitable for these purposes due to its significant weight. As for spruce and pine, the latter are not sufficiently resistant to mechanical damage and warp on contact with moisture. Therefore, the type of wood should be selected depending on the goals and conditions for the future use of the crossbow.

How to make a hunting crossbow truly practical? During manufacturing, special attention should be paid to the guide in the form of a groove for the boom, which must be tried to be made as even, smooth and polished as possible. The condition of the groove is largely reflected in the accuracy of shooting. It is desirable that the width of the stock is equal to the diameter of the arrows used. You can cut it with a circular saw.

It is rational to use a spring as a means for holding the arrow, which will press the projectile against the bed and will not allow the latter to slip out of the groove before the shot is fired.

Trigger mechanism

The material for the manufacture of the part will be sheet metal. It is desirable that its thickness is at least 6-7 mm. A drawing of the mechanism is presented in the following diagram:

All parts are placed directly in the stock. Here, a special socket is cut out, through holes are made under the axis of the mechanism, on which the descent elements are subsequently installed. An example of setting the trigger is shown in the figure below.

Sighting optics

As a crossbow sight, you can use factory optics from firearms... A fairly practical solution is the use of front sight and rear sight. With the help of the latter, vertical corrections can be made. It is convenient to perform horizontal adjustments using a front sight fixed at the intersection of the shoulders and the stock.

To ensure the convenience of transporting the crossbow, it is worth making the sighting device removable. To do this, a so-called Picatinny rail can be installed on the weapon, which provides the ability to mount individual factory-assembled sights.

Finally

The hand-made manufacture and operation of a hunting crossbow is a rather radical solution. Often, in the absence of experience in this kind of activity, the quality and reliability of a home-made device leaves much to be desired. In reality, even factory-made budget-class crossbows, which cost about 3000-4000 rubles, turn out to be much more effective, convenient and practical compared to the creations of their own hands.

As you can see, making a hunting crossbow is quite realistic. However, by purchasing a weapon in a specialized store, the user receives guarantees of its safety and reliability of assembly. When operating a homemade crossbow, you can only rely on yourself.

Hunting crossbow - excellent weapon for obtaining food in the forest, as well as a means of survival in extreme conditions... It differs from a conventional bow in more accurate aiming, better striking power and ease of use due to the presence of a trigger. The advantage of such a weapon compared to others is that it can be made independently, you do not need to get a special permit for it, like for a gun, and the simplest crossbow with your own hands can be made in a matter of minutes if time is pressing. Among the shortcomings, one can note the time spent on reloading, as well as a small distance for the sight on the target.

The homemade crossbow allows you to hunt any game, from small to large animals. The hunting crossbow has the following design:

• The base to which the rest of the elements will be attached with a guide bar. This bar defines the trajectory of the bolt (boom).
• Shoulders, or bow: Determines the strength of the shot.
• The block that attaches the base to the bow.
• Trigger mechanism.
• Bowstring.

Hunting Crossbow Blueprints

The base is carved from sturdy wood, but not heavy, so that the hands do not get tired of carrying weapons. Ideal for base materials are beech and walnut. In the wild, there is no time to cut a beautiful base, but you need to try to make it as convenient as possible for yourself. The guide bar is a groove where the boom will fit. It should not create friction when the bolt (arrow) moves, therefore, after attaching it, it is necessary to go through with sandpaper or a polishing wheel to grind its surface. You can make it separately using a metal tube cut in half, but in field conditions it is easier to cut a deep groove in the base of the structure. It is better if the stock and the rail are separated from each other.

The crossbow shoulders are an important structural part. A simple do-it-yourself crossbow has a classic bow design: the bowstring is statically attached to the shoulders, transfers the power of the shot from them to the arrow. To make onions, you need to use flexible wood that will keep its shape without breaking from numerous bends: ash, maple, acacia. The shoulders are hewn out with a knife symmetrically and in such a way that their base has a larger diameter in girth than the edges. At the edges you need to hew out the fasteners for the bowstring. To attach the bow to the base, you need to make a block.

Usually the block for fastening the base and bow is made of metal. In field conditions there is no such possibility, therefore the simplest model of a hunting crossbow may have a wooden block. This requires a solid wood, ideally oak. The shoe is attached to the base, then the bow is attached. Everything is connected into a single structure using self-tapping screws, nails, or a strong rope.

To carry out a shot, you need to make a trigger. In order to embed the trigger, you need to make a vertical slot in the base. A retaining bar should be attached above this slot to prevent accidental slipping of the bowstring.

For the bowstring, you need to use a strong, but not too elastic material. Suitable for this: cloth, wire, fibrous plants, bark, horsehair, tendons or animal skin. Using these materials, you need to weave the string using the braids method, hair, skin and tendons can be used as they are. After the bowstring is in place, the homemade crossbow for hunting is ready.

Instead of arrows, like a bow, bolts are used here, which have a greater lethality. They are made of durable and resilient material. The bolt must be perfectly shaped and the center of gravity must be in the first third of the shaft. All bolts must be the same length and weight, otherwise the result from the shots will always be different. Good bolts are made with telescopic fiberglass rods. The tip is made from sheet metal cut with metal scissors. The tip is lubricated with epoxy glue and inserted into the cut at the end of the shaft.

Homemade crossbow for spearfishing

There is an opinion that what is often mistakenly called "underwater crossbow", rather, is a weapon acting on the principle of a slingshot for fishing underwater. The crossbow is not suitable for spearfishing, since the resistance of the water will not allow you to make a successful shot. However, you can build a homemade crossbow for spearfishing in the sense that you can shoot from it at fish from above, in shallow water, and underwater.

Homemade underwater crossbow (in the making)

A homemade underwater crossbow is, in fact, a rubber combat rifle. There is also a pneumatic weapon, but it is difficult to assemble it yourself; you will need special skills and abilities.

Underwater weapons consist of the following structural elements:

• Lever
• The foundation
• Trigger mechanism
• Headband
• Rubber straps and hooks

The principle of operation of the device is that the projectile pushes the harpoon and returns it by means of rubber straps back. The trunk is cylindrical or irregular. Its task is not only to hold the guide, but also to resist the bending loads created by the rubber straps.

The guide of the underwater crossbow serves to stabilize the position of the harpoon. It is better to make it from an aluminum tube divided into two parts. One of them must be attached at the head of the gun, the second at a distance of about 10 cm from it. The harpoon must pass through them unhindered. The headband is open or closed. In the first case, ring strands are attached, in the second, paired ones. When using annular rubber bands, the acceleration of the harpoon will be greater than with paired ones. The unbalanced power of the ropes will either not create enough force for the spear to fly out, or will create an excessive load on the barrel bending. The ropes must be attached on each side to the spool holder, secured with clamps. The second end of the straps must be passed through a special ring, it will be more convenient to shoot with it.

Depending on the size and power of the implement, the harpoon has different lengths and thickness. The hooks on it are of the type of saw cut or sharpfin. The two-sided shape of the harpoon dulls less, and the three-sided one has a higher penetrating power. The device of the handle on a homemade crossbow is an individual matter, it may not exist. If you intend to hunt for large fish, there must be a reel. It is most convenient to install the coil at the front end of the barrel.

The spring crossbow differs from the usual one in that the shot from it is carried out due to the elasticity of the bow. For the manufacture of such a model, you can use materials at hand: a spring net from an old bed, a spring treated with a grinder, shock absorbers from bicycle wheels. The spring of this type of crossbow can be located inside the stock, there can be two of them on each shoulder or one on both shoulders. The spring inside the stock is notable for its small size, such a weapon is convenient to carry and use in the forest. The spring can be used not only for tension, but also for compression, and by increasing the number of turns, you can adjust the tension of the bowstring. A spring projectile can be built if you slightly re-equip your crossbow with a conventional device.

Dear lovers of homemade weapons, today I want to present to your attention not an ordinary crossbow, which uses mechanical tension on the shoulders to throw an arrow, but something completely different. Namely, a spring-vacuum crossbow, which can be used not only for land, but also for spearfishing. It is compact, convenient, allows hunting in dense vegetation, the vacuum energy greatly increases the range and speed of the arrow. Schemes of this weapon were found on the Internet.

First, let's touch brief description crossbow devices. This weapon has the following main components and mechanisms: crossbow stock 1 (Fig. 1; 3), shoulders that are fixed motionless in front of the crossbow stock strictly perpendicular to its axis 2 (Fig. 1; 2), rotating guides, bowstring straightening mechanism ... In the lower part of the crossbow bed, blocks are immovably fixed: receiving 3 (Fig. 2), which are fixed by means of a corner 4 (Fig. 2) to the underside of the shoulders. Moreover, the angle between this pair of blocks must be strictly ninety degrees. Guide blocks 5 (figure 2) fixed through the stirrup 6 (figure 1; 4) in front of the vertical plane of the crossbow arms. Another pair of blocks - bowstring 7 (Fig. 1; 2; 3), they are located at the edges of the crossbow arms. Cable 8 passes through these extreme blocks (Fig. 1; 2; 4), which is actually the bowstring 9 (Fig. 1; 2). On the crossbow stock itself there is a special mechanism that holds the bowstring 10 (Fig. 1). The stops 11 are attached to the bottom of the bed; 12 (Fig. 3). Between them there is a pipe 13 (Fig. 3; 4; 5), in which the spring-vacuum mechanism is located.

Now let's see how this mechanism works. First, let's analyze the device of this mechanism for compression. Inside the through pipe 13 (Fig. 3; 4; 5) there is a helical compression spring 14 (Fig. 4; 5) and a vacuum piston 15 (Fig. 4; 5). Two parallel cables 8 are rigidly attached to this piston (Fig. 4; 5), which are threaded through a spring. At the end of the pipe there is a rubber gasket, the so-called emergency shock absorber 16 (Fig. 4; 5). There is also a fuse 17 (figure 5).

In the sealed chamber of the pipe 22 there is a pump 19 for pumping out excess air and changing the power of the weapon, plus the pressure gauge of the vacuum chamber 20, which shows what vacuum is in the chamber, and an instant discharge valve 21, which serves for the safety of the cocked weapon. When it is opened, the pressure in the chamber will be equal to atmospheric and spontaneous firing will not occur.

As you can see from the description of the device - the weapon is quite serious and to make it yourself, you need to invest a lot of work and brains.

How does this unique weapon work?

When we pull the bowstring 9 -> 9a (Fig. 1), the cables pull the piston back. The blocks begin to rotate guiding the cable. In this case, the volume of the vacuum chamber increases and as a result of this increase, the air discharge in the chamber increases. The piston moves until it is blocked by a safety catch.

To fire, turn off the fuse, bowstring 9 -> 9a (Fig. 1) is released and the spring begins to move the piston forward, which pulls the cables 8, the blocks, rotating, direct the cable, bowstring 9 -> 9a (Fig. 1) sharply straightens up and a shot is fired. In this case, compressed air is thrown into the decompression hole located at the stop 12. If the shoulders have a span of forty centimeters, and the bowstring has a working stroke of thirty centimeters, then the working stroke of the spring will be seventeen centimeters.

Unfortunately, I was able to find though detailed diagrams device of a vacuum-spring crossbow, but without any specific dimensions. Therefore, this weapon is not capable of being made by every DIYer, but only by those who have some technical knowledge and design thinking. Good luck with your endeavors.

Fig. 1 is a crossbow top view.

Fig. 2 is a front view of a crossbow.

Fig. 3 is a side view of a crossbow.

Fig. 4 is a crossbow bottom view. (the pipe is conventionally not shown in the diagram)

Fig. 5 - a spring mechanism in operation with a compression spring

Fig. 6 - spring mechanism in operation with a tension spring

Fig. 7 - the action of the mechanism using the work of the vacuum chamber

1 - crossbow bed, 2 - fixed crossbow shoulders, 3 - receiving pair of blocks, 4 - corner, 5 - guiding pair of blocks, 6 - stirrup, 7 - bowstring-forming pair of blocks, 8 - rope, 9 - rope-bowstring, 10 - mechanism holding the bowstring, 11 - stop, 12 - stop, 13 - pipe, 14 - compression spring, 15 - piston, 16 - rubber emergency shock absorber, 17 - fuse, 19 - pump for additional pumping of air, 20 - vacuum pressure gauge, 21 - instantaneous valve discharge, 22 - sealed vacuum chamber

P.S.

The article is rewritten. The administrator is not responsible for the accuracy of the information. Everything you do, you do at your own peril and risk.

If you do not want to buy an expensive crossbow (and prices sometimes exceed $ 1000), you can make a crossbow with your own hands. This is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The design of the crossbow is quite simple. A crossbow can be made from what is at hand, replacing missing materials with similar ones. For target shooting, a homemade crossbow is fine.

General view of a crossbow, which can be done by hand according to the drawings

In the design of this crossbow, the experience of manufacturers in the field of weapons was used. The drawings show a block-type crossbow. By following the instructions and observing all sizes, you can make a high-quality and good crossbow with your own hands, even at home

General scheme of a homemade crossbow in the assembly:

To begin with, it is advisable to carefully study the drawings of the crossbow and start assembling with your own hands. Making a crossbow with your own hands is not an easy task. But this increases the interest in work! After all, a homemade crossbow can bring great joy and respect to the performer.

Crossbow device: stock, shoulders, butt, trigger, sighting devices, block system. For the manufacture of the bed, natural wood, solid or glued beams, mainly hardwoods, are used. The exact dimensions of the crossbow can be seen on the blueprints. You choose the shape of the crossbow yourself, guided by the convenience and ergonomics of the stock, the desired image. When choosing, you must also consider whether you can make such a shape correctly.

Drawing of the shoulders and crossbow deck:

Application of the bed from small arms, allows you to significantly reduce labor costs for the manufacture of a crossbow. The main thing is to choose the right size. The trace from the trunk left in such a bed must be hammered in with wooden blocks, firmly seated on epoxy glue. The butt and grenade of the crossbow can also be made of wood. The stock will be attached to the rail and serve as the base for the trigger.

Stock drawing:

Proposed for do-it-yourself assembly, the crossbow has a block design. This allows you to compensate for the load when cocking the bowstring and save power. Block crossbows are the most popular among hunters because they are you can wear a crossbow cocked for a long time. This design is actively used by Horton in the production of its crossbows.

Detail drawing of block assembly:

Pay Special attention for processing boom and bowstring guides. The clarity of their finish greatly affects the accuracy of shooting. The guide lines must be perfectly straight and smooth. The best choice would be sanding on a milling machine and subsequent processing with fine-grain sandpaper. This is followed by polishing the guides. View the dimensions of the boom rail groove in the drawings. The crosspiece, with the shoulders attached to it, is installed from the end end of the bed. It is usually made from an aluminum blank. Wood can also be a suitable material.

The crossbow sight should consist of a rear sight and a front sight. Also, an optical sight can be installed on a crossbow, providing a mount for the aiming bar. Vertical corrections are carried out entirely, fixed on the cover of the trigger mechanism, and horizontal - with a front sight, fixed on the bracket of the elastic element.

There can be many design options for sights and sighting devices for a crossbow, depending on the possibility of manufacturing, the availability of ready-made sights from conventional weapons ( air rifles) etc.

It should be borne in mind that the trajectory of the arrow of the crossbow (crossbow bolt) is sufficiently high, so the rear sight must be set much higher than the front sight. The angle of exceeding the aiming line depends on the weight of the arrow, the tension of the bowstring, the distance of fire, etc. In our crossbow at a distance of 50 m, it is about 6 °.

Convenient are the constructions of the rear sight, which allow it to be removed or folded during transportation. It will also be convenient if the rear sight can be adjusted manually by raising or lowering the bar. Thus, you can shoot the crossbow under different conditions (distance to the target, arrow weight).

The crossbow, the manufacture of which with your own hands is described above, is designed for shooting with bolts with a diameter of 8 mm and a length of 450-470 mm. You can easily make them yourself from a duralumin tube with a wall thickness of 0.5 mm. The tip and the liner are attached to the front of the bolt, the plumage is attached to the back, as is done for archery. It should be borne in mind that the shank of a bolt for a crossbow, unlike an arrow for a bow, should not have a cutout for a bowstring, it should be flat. It can be carved out of wood in the form of a cork and inserted into the end of the tube, having previously greased it with glue.